You don’t want more articulation unless you replace the control arms. The factory control arms do not have the type of bushings that hold up to a lot of flex. The OEM control arm bushings will wear out after a few wheeling trips if you flex them too much. EDIT: I should specify that the factory control arm bushings are tight by design so that the Jeep handles well on the road. If you want a more flexible bushing, the Jeep is going to feel a bit looser handling wise on the road.
Jesus. I don’t know how you manage to add so many extra unnecessary steps while simultaneously leaving out some critically important steps. Good luck everyone.
You don’t really need adjustable track bars unless you go over 2.5 inches of lift. With a 2.5 inch lift, it moves the axle millimeters off center. That’s not enough to really worry about. I’d still get it professionally aligned though.
Why do you guys disconnect so many things just to do that?? Is it so the customer thinks what they are paying is worth it?? I remove the lower bolt on the shock and sway bar and that it. Weird.
Yea not gonna lie this had me like ummmm is it not that involved? Bc I went from full confidence by myself for like 3-4 hours to thinking it’ll be a whole weekend. Ang better videos?
He must have put that part in there just in case you don’t have a spring compression tool. It can be pretty damn hard to drop the axle far enough to get those new longer springs in there if you don’t have a spring compressor tool. If you disconnect the drive shaft, the axle can easily drop far enough to get those springs in without the compression tool. That’s the only reason I can think of.
![Installing a Jeep Wrangler JL 3.5-inch Suspension Lift Kit [by Rough Country]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/O5Way3H4cSQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Don't forget the giant bump stop extensions to make sure you don't gain any articulation.
You don’t want more articulation unless you replace the control arms. The factory control arms do not have the type of bushings that hold up to a lot of flex. The OEM control arm bushings will wear out after a few wheeling trips if you flex them too much.
EDIT: I should specify that the factory control arm bushings are tight by design so that the Jeep handles well on the road. If you want a more flexible bushing, the Jeep is going to feel a bit looser handling wise on the road.
Clear and easy steps and I still don’t trust myself to do this right.
Man you guys make the best stuff. I only use rough country first.
Does this kit need a new track bar or anything else if my Jeep is a JLU sport ?
Jesus. I don’t know how you manage to add so many extra unnecessary steps while simultaneously leaving out some critically important steps.
Good luck everyone.
no new Forged track bars for the lift?
You don’t really need adjustable track bars unless you go over 2.5 inches of lift. With a 2.5 inch lift, it moves the axle millimeters off center. That’s not enough to really worry about. I’d still get it professionally aligned though.
Why do you guys disconnect so many things just to do that?? Is it so the customer thinks what they are paying is worth it?? I remove the lower bolt on the shock and sway bar and that it. Weird.
Yea not gonna lie this had me like ummmm is it not that involved? Bc I went from full confidence by myself for like 3-4 hours to thinking it’ll be a whole weekend. Ang better videos?
Really the only unnecessary thing they did was disconnecting the drive shaft. They only loosened the control arms, not remove them.
What size of wheels and tires are those?
Following
Are those shocks decent for winches and steel bumbers?
Springs are what you should be concerned about, not the shocks. The shocks only dampen the travel, the springs hold the weight.
I had one of these installed years ago and had the worse case of death wobble imagined , don’t know happened but any suggestions ??
Mine has all terrain tires and those r probably the reason for my death wobble so if u also have those that’s probably why
I quit watching as soon as he said disconnect the driveshaft. WTF?
Lmaoo
He must have put that part in there just in case you don’t have a spring compression tool. It can be pretty damn hard to drop the axle far enough to get those new longer springs in there if you don’t have a spring compressor tool. If you disconnect the drive shaft, the axle can easily drop far enough to get those springs in without the compression tool. That’s the only reason I can think of.
Torque specs for anything? Not a torque wrench in sight….
Can you run 35s on the stock 17" rims?
Yes u can
That’s why I’m traumatized of these lifts