ive been using two types of v3rs now for almost three years now. I love them and they’ve really made tattooing easier. I do get puzzled by the impact screw/timing mark. I usually run it around 5.8-6.5 volts depending on the work/placement. However, I’m not exactly sure of where the timing mark suits my tattooing best. If I haven’t gotten this video wrong after the 4456th time ive watched it, the closer to the end of the timing mark the harder the impact will be?
The more you turn in the contact screw, the more impact you will have, and the cam will be rotated counterclockwise as the impact is increased. I usually set the impact so it lines up in the middle of the notch
@@dankubin5386 thanks for the quick reply mate. nice to have it confirmed by the man himself. i guess i just have a case of classic overthinking! take care and thanks for the tools
@@stabbysean4895 I thought when they say new ones they are taking about newer models. Cuzz I have heard Dan talk about his new models being cartridge friendly.. not the V3R tho. Maybe u know somthing I don’t tho.
@@evanabt8578 I’m not sure, just that if you go on WHI and look at their listings for V3R it shows how to set up for carts. But defo the 7.3b is made to be compatible
Yea, I have this version of the DK just play around with it till you run it they way you like. I set it up between the 2nd and 3rd dial and will run it around 5.5/6 volt range and it runs best for the way I tattoo.
Has anyone else experienced needle bars snapping while using this machine? It’s the only machine that I have ever experienced this with, has happened with mine on several occasions now.
Just bought one and on your video you show a impact screw on the side of the armature bar but mine doesnt have that and actually the armature is different then yours and I bought the vr3 . I dunno I feel confused and not sure where on my machine to change the impact since its different then yours but supposedly the same ???
It’s changed. It’s towards the front now. Should be common sense. I moved the impact to the front of the machine to help keep it in tune longer, and easier to dial in
The notch at the 1:00 position is still for the impact. If running faster, you can line it up with the lower end of the notch. If running slower, or setting it up with cartridges (which isn’t ideal) you can set it to the higher side of the notch. Basically, if the machine isn’t snapping hard enough even after you adjusted your stroke, it’s time to reset the impact. If your machine is running hard, loud, and choppy, you may have the impact screw turned in too far.
@@dankubin5386 i know this might sound daft, but i genuinely don’t know how to reset the impact? i’ve watched this video 50 times and i still don’t understand what you mean by that or how it’s done
@@dankubin5386 Thank you. So the 1:00 position is what I would want for color packing and bold lines? Also, how do I get it to stya in place? The screw in the middle of the cam?
@@amandagraves4129 I don’t think I understand. The impact is adjusted by the set screw on the armature bar. The side locking screw keeps it in place. 1:00 is always a good spot. If it’s pooping out, lift up on your rubber band to reduce return spring tension, thus having a stiffer hit for shading/packing
My v3r armature bar gets stuck down one the contact metal and I can’t figure out why? It’s a new machine and shouldn’t be doing this! Can anyone give me an idea on what to do?
It sometimes might stay down, but it naturally is going to retract up. I would check the impact setting. If it’s performing fine, and it’s an occasional thing, I wouldn’t worry about it.
dan kubin thank you I really appreciate your reply, I’ve tried playing with the impact screw and stroke but this whole machine is like nothing I’ve ever used and I don’t understand the mechanics of it lol :p super great machine otherwise
@@tattooman9294 I'm on the same boat here! No longer that magical beatiful machine, and only after 4 months of none daily use. I've reseted the impact screw, now im playing with the strong length, but it just doesn't feel the same. Did you find any answer to your problem ?
@@thefranserrano.tattoo At first make sure that your impact is set perfectly (in most cases exactly on the low side of the marked area on the frame) and that your upstroke (strokewheel) is also set within the marked area on the frame. Dont look to much on the numbers of your strokewheel, just find out which numbers are roughly within the marked area and start using them. The number 5 is not the perfecr stroke on every of those machines, because there can be little differences because of the finishes or the production. Strokewheel on 6 on your machine can be the same like strokewheel on 2 on a different v3r. So its always the best to check which stroke is the „perfect“ one for your machine with the timing marks. From there you can make little adjustments on the strokewheel and the impact-pin, but dont go crazy and keep the impact timing rather low than too high. A super tiny adjustment on the impact screw can make a huge difference. You can always check your tuning with your thumb and see how it reacts to resistance and listen to the sound. If it sounds shitty it will not hit right. Dont turn it in too much because the result will be a really stiff and loud hit with a shortened down stroke that tends to snagg and chew up the skin. Some people like to run it with more impact on a lower voltage, but its a really hard hitting result because the springs dont flex much like this. Dont run it slow on a short stroke and dont run it too fast on a huge stroke setting. The shortest strokes are great for super high speed lining or fast shading, around the middle is great at 5,5-6.5v and the long strokes are good for low volts stuff like heavy whipshading or slow lining with big liners. make sure that you are using a thick rubberband and place it perfectly straight on the needlebar like dan shows it in his videos. Those rubberbands are adding up to the springtension. You can always pull it up a bit if you prefer to run it around 5v instead of 6v, but high speed (5,8v-7v) is definitely where the mechanism shines if your stroke and impact is set correctly. You can run it really low too, but it will need a bit of experimenting with the impact, the stroke and the rubberband. Hope this helps ✌🏻
You just have to use a rubber band to negate the cartridge tension. Feel the tension with a standard needle with the rubber band on, then use a rubber band to pull the bar down with a cartridge until it sounds, feels, and hits the same
I removed that feature, as it takes away from the effectiveness of the machine. I did a tattoo partially with the o rings, and finished it without. All the lines with the o rings/silenced way were faded, while the rest of the lines were solid.
@@dankubin5386 so you recommend to remove it? I was using 2 orings with cartridges, now i was going to try 3 o rings with the impact screw loose (no impact)
I don't think and I don't think that hybrids of this caliber should be used only with standard needles and I really don't like this thing of forcing the mabuchi the spring .. there are those who do it but in my opinion it is torture for the machine to pass the elastics through from a thousand places and with the tips that Mr. Dan gave us it's a pity (opinions personal)
@dankubin You mentioned yo clean with barbacide in the vid I have a polished brass version Would the barbacide affect the the finish? I just want to make sure because I. Your website it says to clean with alcohol
Best liner in the world
The take on brutal black project made me laugh my ass out
Love this machine so much.. thank you.
Accurate and quick user info
Love this machine!!!
what would you prefer is best for single needle tuning?
ive been using two types of v3rs now for almost three years now. I love them and they’ve really made tattooing easier. I do get puzzled by the impact screw/timing mark. I usually run it around 5.8-6.5 volts depending on the work/placement. However, I’m not exactly sure of where the timing mark suits my tattooing best. If I haven’t gotten this video wrong after the 4456th time ive watched it, the closer to the end of the timing mark the harder the impact will be?
The more you turn in the contact screw, the more impact you will have, and the cam will be rotated counterclockwise as the impact is increased. I usually set the impact so it lines up in the middle of the notch
@@dankubin5386 thanks for the quick reply mate. nice to have it confirmed by the man himself. i guess i just have a case of classic overthinking! take care and thanks for the tools
Hi dan I have a workhorse screw on my v3r can I buy the thumbscrew in this video?
Can you show us the proper set up for running this machine with cartridges?
Not suppose to run the v3r with carts.
@@evanabt8578 the new ones can supposedly run carts, Workhorse Irons mentions how to it up
@@stabbysean4895 I thought when they say new ones they are taking about newer models. Cuzz I have heard Dan talk about his new models being cartridge friendly.. not the V3R tho. Maybe u know somthing I don’t tho.
@@evanabt8578 I’m not sure, just that if you go on WHI and look at their listings for V3R it shows how to set up for carts. But defo the 7.3b is made to be compatible
@@stabbysean4895 ohh cool.. good to know. Ima check that out. 😎
Can I run fine lines, (3 needle) and bugpins with this? Thank you.
Yea, I have this version of the DK just play around with it till you run it they way you like. I set it up between the 2nd and 3rd dial and will run it around 5.5/6 volt range and it runs best for the way I tattoo.
@@jesusask8 Thank you very much!
Has anyone else experienced needle bars snapping while using this machine? It’s the only machine that I have ever experienced this with, has happened with mine on several occasions now.
How would you set them up for fine line or shading?
Does anyone prefer color packing with this rather than the v7 or mojobox? Very curious if this saturates black off the tips
I don’t know. It may be worth trying.. If you like shading off the tip, then you might like it.
These are boss and workhorse has them in stock all the time
Just bought one and on your video you show a impact screw on the side of the armature bar but mine doesnt have that and actually the armature is different then yours and I bought the vr3 . I dunno I feel confused and not sure where on my machine to change the impact since its different then yours but supposedly the same ???
It’s changed. It’s towards the front now. Should be common sense. I moved the impact to the front of the machine to help keep it in tune longer, and easier to dial in
@@dankubin5386 I feel kinda dumb now lol thank you for the quick reply! I'm really excited to use the machine and appreciate your comment.
With the new version, there are two notches by the cam, should I still try and turn it to set my impact?
The notch at the 1:00 position is still for the impact.
If running faster, you can line it up with the lower end of the notch.
If running slower, or setting it up with cartridges (which isn’t ideal) you can set it to the higher side of the notch.
Basically, if the machine isn’t snapping hard enough even after you adjusted your stroke, it’s time to reset the impact.
If your machine is running hard, loud, and choppy, you may have the impact screw turned in too far.
@@dankubin5386 i know this might sound daft, but i genuinely don’t know how to reset the impact? i’ve watched this video 50 times and i still don’t understand what you mean by that or how it’s done
just simply turning the impact screw in ?
@@dankubin5386 Thank you. So the 1:00 position is what I would want for color packing and bold lines? Also, how do I get it to stya in place? The screw in the middle of the cam?
@@amandagraves4129 I don’t think I understand. The impact is adjusted by the set screw on the armature bar. The side locking screw keeps it in place. 1:00 is always a good spot. If it’s pooping out, lift up on your rubber band to reduce return spring tension, thus having a stiffer hit for shading/packing
Which number for packing ?
My v3r armature bar gets stuck down one the contact metal and I can’t figure out why? It’s a new machine and shouldn’t be doing this! Can anyone give me an idea on what to do?
It sometimes might stay down, but it naturally is going to retract up. I would check the impact setting. If it’s performing fine, and it’s an occasional thing, I wouldn’t worry about it.
How much does it cost.¿
Mine worked amazing for a bit and now it keeps snagging on the skin not sure what’s going on :/
I would check the stroke length and impact setting.
dan kubin thank you I really appreciate your reply, I’ve tried playing with the impact screw and stroke but this whole machine is like nothing I’ve ever used and I don’t understand the mechanics of it lol :p super great machine otherwise
@@tattooman9294 it snags alot when the strike is short you need to set the impact screw and make the stroke longer
@@tattooman9294 I'm on the same boat here! No longer that magical beatiful machine, and only after 4 months of none daily use.
I've reseted the impact screw, now im playing with the strong length, but it just doesn't feel the same.
Did you find any answer to your problem ?
@@thefranserrano.tattoo
At first make sure that your impact is set perfectly (in most cases exactly on the low side of the marked area on the frame) and that your upstroke (strokewheel) is also set within the marked area on the frame. Dont look to much on the numbers of your strokewheel, just find out which numbers are roughly within the marked area and start using them. The number 5 is not the perfecr stroke on every of those machines, because there can be little differences because of the finishes or the production. Strokewheel on 6 on your machine can be the same like strokewheel on 2 on a different v3r. So its always the best to check which stroke is the „perfect“ one for your machine with the timing marks.
From there you can make little adjustments on the strokewheel and the impact-pin, but dont go crazy and keep the impact timing rather low than too high. A super tiny adjustment on the impact screw can make a huge difference. You can always check your tuning with your thumb and see how it reacts to resistance and listen to the sound. If it sounds shitty it will not hit right. Dont turn it in too much because the result will be a really stiff and loud hit with a shortened down stroke that tends to snagg and chew up the skin. Some people like to run it with more impact on a lower voltage, but its a really hard hitting result because the springs dont flex much like this.
Dont run it slow on a short stroke and dont run it too fast on a huge stroke setting. The shortest strokes are great for super high speed lining or fast shading, around the middle is great at 5,5-6.5v and the long strokes are good for low volts stuff like heavy whipshading or slow lining with big liners.
make sure that you are using a thick rubberband and place it perfectly straight on the needlebar like dan shows it in his videos. Those rubberbands are adding up to the springtension. You can always pull it up a bit if you prefer to run it around 5v instead of 6v, but high speed (5,8v-7v) is definitely where the mechanism shines if your stroke and impact is set correctly. You can run it really low too, but it will need a bit of experimenting with the impact, the stroke and the rubberband.
Hope this helps ✌🏻
What's the waybill number, please
Hi can you change the cartridges on this ?
You just have to use a rubber band to negate the cartridge tension. Feel the tension with a standard needle with the rubber band on, then use a rubber band to pull the bar down with a cartridge until it sounds, feels, and hits the same
work well with cartridge?
Get a dmc for cartridges 👍 for standards the sidewinder is king 👑
@@patrickdurka6188 where can I find a DMC ?
@@susejalmora7774 dan’s newest cartridge machine is the swingliner v2. get one of those if you want a dan kubin for cartridges :)
Please talk about the 3 orings to silence the machine!
I removed that feature, as it takes away from the effectiveness of the machine. I did a tattoo partially with the o rings, and finished it without. All the lines with the o rings/silenced way were faded, while the rest of the lines were solid.
@@dankubin5386 so you recommend to remove it? I was using 2 orings with cartridges, now i was going to try 3 o rings with the impact screw loose (no impact)
I don't think and I don't think that hybrids of this caliber should be used only with standard needles and I really don't like this thing of forcing the mabuchi the spring .. there are those who do it but in my opinion it is torture for the machine to pass the elastics through from a thousand places and with the tips that Mr. Dan gave us it's a pity (opinions personal)
Quiero una como aria el contacto Desde España y cuanto vale ( presio €)
Las manda a España cada domingo en su website las pone son muy caras como 600 euros compre esta pero eso fue ase años
Si la v3r si está disponible pero el resto de modelos v6 casi nunca están y esa modelo es el que me interesa
Ma... finiscila ..di dire cazzate....hai scoperto acqua calda sanitaria 😂😂😂
should've covered adjusting the pivot points
Why are you adjusting the pivot points?
@@patrickdurka6188 too much friction
@@jamesdavis3528 will the screws not come loose after some time if they arent tightened up correctly?
@@patrickdurka6188 exactly right.....and if tightened too much there's friction and it interferes with the running of the machine...
@@jamesdavis3528 thats good to know, never thought about checking the pivot points
@dankubin
You mentioned yo clean with barbacide in the vid
I have a polished brass version
Would the barbacide affect the the finish?
I just want to make sure because I. Your website it says to clean with alcohol