Take a tip from a person who does wiring for a living....do NOT solder wires like that! Slide the heat shrink over one wire and twist the wires together end to end, not side by side. Then solder, then slide the heat shrink up over the connection. It will last forever.
I bought this kit, and a new double switch as a complete replacement for original wiring harness. I bundled the relays and used only one wire to the positive side of the battery. Then mounted the switch in the center of the dash and ran only two wires into the door. Works great, and I will cover the extra holes in the door panels when I get them redone.
@@willroark7629 short answer, yes. It is its own harness with just a little of a reworking of the power. And now instead of 2 switches on the driver side door and a single on the passenger. I have the double switch mounted in the center of the dash. Only wires that run to the doors are the window motor wires.
HvyMetal4Ever agreed! saw one episode of this guys truck where he solders an LED strip light wires on the back of the truck. the way he twists and does it does not seal the water out of it at all. everytime i solder i put the shrink tube ontonthe wire, than do whats called a linesman splice. Even as is it is a solid connection and as the wires try to pull apart they get tighter, than if i have it ill put a little flux onto the copper ends, solder it up, once the wire cools down ill put a little dielectric grease onto the soldered joint, than slip the shrink tube over the joint and shrink it. sometimes a little tape over the heat shrink. than wire loom at all possible times, and than zip tie the loom up and out of the way along the frame and such.
All power connections should be 3:1 double wall adhesive lined. And how about the grommet at the fire .... and who knows what he did with grommet in the kicks
I would much rather let the average joe do a crimp job in a brand new 60,000 dollar truck than let This guy do just one of the horrible wiring mistakes he did....talk about butcher a wire harness...
4 years old, but still a relevant comment. Yep, splay both of the wires and mesh them together like you'd do when popping your knuckles with a final twist to finish it up. The soldering wasn't pretty at all land that heat shrink wasn't enough to prevent chafing over time... Not how he did it.
@@godliket5092 My name is Joe. Count me in. hahahha. I just did this installation on an '86 without knowing this video existed. After watching this video, I'm glad I didn't watch the video prior to my install.
Actually enjoyed the video for what it was. But I really think you should have taken a bit more "Pride" in your work. Soldering was interesting, The lack of a grommet was just bad, and Whats up with all the wires on the battery posts? I would have added an alternate fuse block to tie all of those into the electrical system . Rant over Sorry if it offends anyone.
I installed an auxiliary fuse block directly above and to the right of the blower motor and wired directly to it and I installed off road lights on the front bumper and everything worked out awesome!! Thanks LMC for an amazing video 👍🏻
When I can have a pretty straight shot of pulling wire through a fire wall's thick rubber bung or pushing a wire through it. I thread the wire through the loop on the end of an AK47/74 cleaning rod. I'm a gunsmith and dealer and when most people switch from the factory style wood furniture on an AK47 or AK74 the new polymer furniture usually doesn't have a provision for a cleaning rod, or the cleaning kit that fits in the buttstock. So most people just leave those parts with me. Alot even leave the wooden furniture with me. It a strong rod with a threaded end that also as a decent sized hole/slot cut in them for patches. They work better in most situations than a metal coat hanger which are actually kind of hard to find at stores now. I've used it to pull wire for relays to my nitrous solenoidd, WOT micro switch and a few other things I've put on switches. I did this all pushing the braided steel nitrous line which I fought to get in first then ran wires and pulled wires through that same rubber firewall bug. This was all done in a 2002 WS6 Trans Am with 33,000 miles on it. Anyone familiar with these cars know that bung is on the passenger side and runs right up against the bottom of the ECM. A coat hanger wouldn't be strong enough to push through it and the loop on the end would have just grabbed other wires and could have easily stripped a section of insulation off of a wire that is touching a braided steel line. I know this is long but I wanted to explain why I use the ak47 or ak74 cleaning rod. I wouldn't try it with the plastic patch holders and thread together cleaning rods from a kit because they are rather weak and the plastic patch holders is larger than the smaller than .30" rod with a slit cut into it. Just a hot rod trick I figured out. I hope it helps someone out there. Drive safe, shoot safe, and stay safe, and enjoy.
that solderinng is so sad. i actually felt bad for that poor SquareBody :( saw one episode of this guys truck where he solders an LED strip light wires on the back of the truck. the way he twists and does it does not seal the water out of it at all. everytime i solder i put the shrink tube ontonthe wire, than do whats called a linesman splice. Even as is it is a solid connection and as the wires try to pull apart they get tighter, than if i have it ill put a little flux onto the copper ends, solder it up, once the wire cools down ill put a little dielectric grease onto the soldered joint, than slip the shrink tube over the joint and shrink it. sometimes a little tape over the heat shrink. than wire loom at all possible times, and than zip tie the loom up and out of the way along the frame and such.
he hdad the dash off he should've did this harness upgrade with the dash off and ran the wires whith the factory harness would've been ALOT cleaner and ALWAYS use a grommet when going through metal. he couldve done a cleaner job with the wire connections. Put the heatshrink on first then make you connection then soldier then heatshrink looks way better and more professional
agreed with most of you, however I didn't see a comment about grounding the wire at the door or even under the dash, you where right there..... but atleast I know whats going on with my truck then.... il do my own kit then.
I've watching this for hours and it still makes no sense. I have a dark brown and blue and a light brown with gray. Am I connecting 3 wires or 2? I need a better look at the wiring. Also! The hanger doesn't work.
yesterday when i called them I was told no longer available, well I found it burried in the Chevey catalog this will work in any vehicle not just chevies. Got it straightened out and ordered for my Ramcharger. I can make it work. I was gonna build my own I have the schematic.
Hot tip: warm up the yellow plastic insulation on those terminals with a heat gun and they'll become soft and pull off easy. Great video but yeah, that's not the way to solder connections. And use a heat gun on shrink wrap, it works way better than flame.
If this was my project I would have taped up the wiring loom make it look factory, labelled the fuses and used only one connector on the pair of wires at the battery. I won't mention the use of grommet either or painting of the bare metal at the firewall.
Possibly won't get a response but I followed your writing instructions. I hear the relays clucking but my window motor won't move. Noted my motor is new, but it is not installed. Does the motor need to be grounded?
Had a friend recently get this kit for his c10 and he got it all wired in and it made the window go down slower and it kept blowing the fuse. turned out to be the window switch being funky. this kit is not a total fix for slow Windows
I have a 1988 Chevrolet Silverado c1500 2wd 5.7 engine . Ok the problem I'm having is. I was replacing the door pin hinge and bushing on the driver side. When I was working on that the driver side door fell to the ground and the wiring harness came unplugged . So I plugged the harness back up and the driver side window works fine . But the passenger side window is not working at all . Can anyone tell me what to do ? Please help me
Coat hanger is wayyyyyy too time consuming for me. I used an existing wire that goes in to the cab. Un hook from whatever it's going to and electrical tape the wires you want to come through the doors and pull it through making sure you don't pull the existing harness wire all the way. 2 minutes max. Also, if you are adding this while you are replacing the entire wiring harness like I did you will need to bring power from the new harness to the switch in the door and run up and down (blu and tan) from the driver door to the passenger door.
Anybody have any solution for the passenger side window not working from either switch? The driver window works fine. Passenger window seems to be jammed up about 2 inches from the top resting position. I have my door panel off and I just can't seem to find where exactly the motor and regulator are. Any help is appreciated!
Dos LMC have a kit like this for the tail gate motor on a Blazer? They have the same slow window problem as the doors and it's usually worse than the doors.
@@Lmctruck1 tengo una chevrolet silverado año 1985 original..pero esta un poco mas deteriorada del modelo del cual ud muestra en su programa.. soy super fanatico de las c10 de los años 80s.. pero mi pickup soñada siempre fue la pickup apache del año 1955.. mi papa me regalo una silverado del año 1978..fue mi primer auto para ir a la universidad..
I am replacing manual doors with complete power doors. The harness is spliced after the "conduit" by the hinge. Can I use this instead of splicing into my trucks harness??
I hooked mine up the same way you did. And nothing the " brown" wire is more of a black if you ask me but there is a brown wire/gray wire. Do we use that one??
Sorry to say but you can't rely on the colors of the wires, to be really sure you have to "find" the right wire using an electrical testing tool or whatever the name is in english. Car manufacturers seem to enjoy switching colors and positions of wires sometimes, making stuff a bit more frustrating! ( 3 years working with car wiring and equipment installation, so i'm no expert )
Those are terrible connections, and something's going to vibrate loose at some point and short out. If you're going to do it, do it right and use a linesman's splice. No sense in having to rip everything apart again to fix it in a couple of months.
I have a 93 Chevy pickup passenger side door I was replacing the window the switch came apart the up and down window switch wires and I don't know where to go is anybody tell me where the colors go thank you
You need a "Change Over Relay" 12Volts 30Amps 5pins: 85-86 (coil), 30 (common), 87 (Normally Open), 87a (Normally Closed). Do not forget the fuse: 15Amps. Regards!
Lol I hope this harness doesn’t break the bank. I’m converting my old ass manual windows to power windows in my truck and I need a relay straight to battery just to be safe.
A simpler solution ... Cut all the wires buy 2 DPDT switches w center off. Send 2 wires through the door. The switch changes the polarity of the motor ... A simple up and down. Same with the power locks. You're welcome. RWB
Richard Butterfoss terrible advice. I did this to my 86 about 5 years back. One of the kids got out on the passenger side and unknowingly hit the switch in the up position on their way out. The current ran through the wires for hours and eventually melted the whole harness from door to door.
A DPDT switch w/ "Momentary" / On-Off-On (spring loaded center return) will fix that easily. Usually will handle 20 amps. Just a matter of installing the right switch. Got mine for about $10 ea. @ Amazon.com and they have worked fine for over 10 years so far...
Wow! 😱 So thats who makes the spaghetti! Why splice in to the window motor conector if your upping the gage of the wire? Put new motor connectors on your new harness. Why not just unbolt the door wiring bellows then fish it threw? Soldering job lol No grommet through the firewall. Well LMC you want me to do your videos for you?
Have to agree with the majority of the comments, definitely wouldn't have ran any wiring through a firewall without a grommet. Also wouldn't have that many wires to the battery.. Turns into a rats nest quick
We need a better solution for buying this shit In Canada... $40USD turns out to be $120 CAD by the time it hits my door for fuck sakes. Just gonna make my own harness for $25. God damn LMC.. They have everything, but you pay with your left nut up in the north!
Why would he not use a simple rubber grommet to put the wires through in that hole? You start out with a nice product, and then do something ridiculous by sealing it up with Silicone? You have to be kidding me
Hi Bradley! We apologize for any confusion. We do offer the heavy-duty power window harness 36-3579. However, these will fit the 1977-91 Chevy and GMC pickups and SUVs only. Currently, we don’t carry this part for a Dodge pickup
Four hours labor to save 1.5 seconds of rolling up your window....fantastic! And if you have any problems- just call LMC...no tech department and no knowledgeable staff- oh yea!
Low amps burn up motors and switches its not just for speed, i have both my square bodies wired with the 4 relay set up, ive not bought any more motors or switches
It didn't work for my 86 GMC. I just ordered two double poll double throw switches and I am going to throw out the kit ... the instruction that came with it were poor. Sorry LMC ... thank you for responding to my email ... maybe .. maybe we will do business again some day.
@@robinstrufe8651 it's for people who want both up *and* down. ;) (The relay switches power to the motor; the switch activates the relay. Up is power to one terminal, and down is power to the other terminal; the motor is reversed to go the reverse direction. So each motor needs two relays, no matter how many switches are on that door.)
@@DannySauer you sound like you know how this all works. I just installed this and the driver door switch wont roll the passenger side down. Any ideas? Thanks
@@HollywoodJoeTussing you probably cut too many wires on one side or the other. There should be probably four wires that are the same color on both sides. On the driver's side, three that aren't ground (probably black) should go back through the door jamb, and on the passenger side they come in from the jamb to the switch and also go to the motor. You've got power, so find the two extra wires that go through the jamb and reconnect them to the switch (before the relay).
This kit is junk and does not improve operation at all. In fact, my drivers window actually operates at half the speed it did before after installation of this kit. Waste of money.
Take a tip from a person who does wiring for a living....do NOT solder wires like that! Slide the heat shrink over one wire and twist the wires together end to end, not side by side. Then solder, then slide the heat shrink up over the connection. It will last forever.
I cringed when I saw him do that...
This guy is not a wiring guy lol
Yeah, when he said solder he meant blow torch them together apparently.
@@techno_magnus less about the torch. More because of the funky “Y” shape. Torches are fine if you don’t overdo it.
Or just get some solderseal connectors if you're only doing smaller low voltage projects like this.
I bought this kit, and a new double switch as a complete replacement for original wiring harness. I bundled the relays and used only one wire to the positive side of the battery. Then mounted the switch in the center of the dash and ran only two wires into the door. Works great, and I will cover the extra holes in the door panels when I get them redone.
And this bypasses the under the dash harness?
@@willroark7629 short answer, yes. It is its own harness with just a little of a reworking of the power. And now instead of 2 switches on the driver side door and a single on the passenger. I have the double switch mounted in the center of the dash. Only wires that run to the doors are the window motor wires.
My soul died a little with that soldering "job"
Ouch
HvyMetal4Ever agreed! saw one episode of this guys truck where he solders an LED strip light wires on the back of the truck. the way he twists and does it does not seal the water out of it at all. everytime i solder i put the shrink tube ontonthe wire, than do whats called a linesman splice. Even as is it is a solid connection and as the wires try to pull apart they get tighter, than if i have it ill put a little flux onto the copper ends, solder it up, once the wire cools down ill put a little dielectric grease onto the soldered joint, than slip the shrink tube over the joint and shrink it. sometimes a little tape over the heat shrink. than wire loom at all possible times, and than zip tie the loom up and out of the way along the frame and such.
All power connections should be 3:1 double wall adhesive lined. And how about the grommet at the fire .... and who knows what he did with grommet in the kicks
I would much rather let the average joe do a crimp job in a brand new 60,000 dollar truck than let This guy do just one of the horrible wiring mistakes he did....talk about butcher a wire harness...
4 years old, but still a relevant comment. Yep, splay both of the wires and mesh them together like you'd do when popping your knuckles with a final twist to finish it up.
The soldering wasn't pretty at all land that heat shrink wasn't enough to prevent chafing over time... Not how he did it.
@@godliket5092 My name is Joe. Count me in. hahahha. I just did this installation on an '86 without knowing this video existed. After watching this video, I'm glad I didn't watch the video prior to my install.
Actually enjoyed the video for what it was. But I really think you should have taken a bit more "Pride" in your work. Soldering was interesting, The lack of a grommet was just bad, and Whats up with all the wires on the battery posts? I would have added an alternate fuse block to tie all of those into the electrical system . Rant over Sorry if it offends anyone.
I installed an auxiliary fuse block directly above and to the right of the blower motor and wired directly to it and I installed off road lights on the front bumper and everything worked out awesome!!
Thanks LMC for an amazing video 👍🏻
Wouldn't it be easier to route the power lead to the power distribution block on the firewall?
When I can have a pretty straight shot of pulling wire through a fire wall's thick rubber bung or pushing a wire through it. I thread the wire through the loop on the end of an AK47/74 cleaning rod. I'm a gunsmith and dealer and when most people switch from the factory style wood furniture on an AK47 or AK74 the new polymer furniture usually doesn't have a provision for a cleaning rod, or the cleaning kit that fits in the buttstock. So most people just leave those parts with me. Alot even leave the wooden furniture with me. It a strong rod with a threaded end that also as a decent sized hole/slot cut in them for patches. They work better in most situations than a metal coat hanger which are actually kind of hard to find at stores now. I've used it to pull wire for relays to my nitrous solenoidd, WOT micro switch and a few other things I've put on switches. I did this all pushing the braided steel nitrous line which I fought to get in first then ran wires and pulled wires through that same rubber firewall bug. This was all done in a 2002 WS6 Trans Am with 33,000 miles on it. Anyone familiar with these cars know that bung is on the passenger side and runs right up against the bottom of the ECM. A coat hanger wouldn't be strong enough to push through it and the loop on the end would have just grabbed other wires and could have easily stripped a section of insulation off of a wire that is touching a braided steel line. I know this is long but I wanted to explain why I use the ak47 or ak74 cleaning rod. I wouldn't try it with the plastic patch holders and thread together cleaning rods from a kit because they are rather weak and the plastic patch holders is larger than the smaller than .30" rod with a slit cut into it. Just a hot rod trick I figured out. I hope it helps someone out there. Drive safe, shoot safe, and stay safe, and enjoy.
What can't the AK do. 😆
that solderinng is so sad. i actually felt bad for that poor SquareBody
:( saw one episode of this guys truck where he solders an LED strip light wires on the back of the truck. the way he twists and does it does not seal the water out of it at all. everytime i solder i put the shrink tube ontonthe wire, than do whats called a linesman splice. Even as is it is a solid connection and as the wires try to pull apart they get tighter, than if i have it ill put a little flux onto the copper ends, solder it up, once the wire cools down ill put a little dielectric grease onto the soldered joint, than slip the shrink tube over the joint and shrink it. sometimes a little tape over the heat shrink. than wire loom at all possible times, and than zip tie the loom up and out of the way along the frame and such.
he hdad the dash off he should've did this harness upgrade with the dash off and ran the wires whith the factory harness would've been ALOT cleaner and ALWAYS use a grommet when going through metal. he couldve done a cleaner job with the wire connections. Put the heatshrink on first then make you connection then soldier then heatshrink looks way better and more professional
agreed
Holding wire to solder with crimping pliers is a slick idea! Love the Bob Ross vibes :)
Good to see you on a show again, Kevin
agreed with most of you, however I didn't see a comment about grounding the wire at the door or even under the dash, you where right there..... but atleast I know whats going on with my truck then.... il do my own kit then.
I just installed my window harness, Thanks for the get video on installing them. They work great now.
I tried buying one but couldn't find it on the web page. And numbers to cross reference?
Chevy stepside gears It’s under door components glass and parts.
Thanks great job makes it so much easier than reading into print directions
Couldn’t you just run the ground wire straight to the screw you used to mount the relay?
I just added this kit to my K5 Blazer and the windows are much faster now. I am going to build another setup like it for the tail gate window.
larry Itsme can you post how you wired yours. Checked mine over and over and still doesn’t work
I would NEVER let this guy work on my truck !
Do you have anything to provide extra power to the wipers?
great vid I have to kick my door panel just to get the window going and passenger side won't even budge love my truck buttt those darn windows
While this covers the front windows, anything to upgrade the tailgate electric window? Mine opens but you have to be patient.
I've watching this for hours and it still makes no sense. I have a dark brown and blue and a light brown with gray. Am I connecting 3 wires or 2? I need a better look at the wiring. Also! The hanger doesn't work.
yesterday when i called them I was told no longer available, well I found it burried in the Chevey catalog this will work in any vehicle not just chevies. Got it straightened out and ordered for my Ramcharger. I can make it work. I was gonna build my own I have the schematic.
What website?
shouldve used a grommet for passing the wire through the firewall. nice use of heat shrink and solder.
Hot tip: warm up the yellow plastic insulation on those terminals with a heat gun and they'll become soft and pull off easy. Great video but yeah, that's not the way to solder connections. And use a heat gun on shrink wrap, it works way better than flame.
no grommet at firewall wow thanks LMC but tighten up
That's was awesome thanks for sharing
Thank you for watching
Would this modification fix a window that doesn’t work or do I need to dig deeper to fix that?
Anyway to have the fuses not on the door so it would be easier to replace them? Or would that just cause too much wiring mess?
just what I was looking for ! Thanks LMC.
zombienectar
If this was my project I would have taped up the wiring loom make it look factory, labelled the fuses and used only one connector on the pair of wires at the battery. I won't mention the use of grommet either or painting of the bare metal at the firewall.
Didn’t show where you input fuse.are there any grounds. Just purchased kit and can’t get to work.please help
Possibly won't get a response but I followed your writing instructions. I hear the relays clucking but my window motor won't move. Noted my motor is new, but it is not installed. Does the motor need to be grounded?
On your trucks do the regulars go out in a couple years
Love these videos. Just wish you would post part numbers
Jurell, please feel free to give us a call 1-800-562-8782 or send us an email and we'd be happy to find the part numbers for your application!
Had a friend recently get this kit for his c10 and he got it all wired in and it made the window go down slower and it kept blowing the fuse. turned out to be the window switch being funky. this kit is not a total fix for slow Windows
I have a 1988 Chevrolet Silverado c1500 2wd 5.7 engine . Ok the problem I'm having is. I was replacing the door pin hinge and bushing on the driver side. When I was working on that the driver side door fell to the ground and the wiring harness came unplugged . So I plugged the harness back up and the driver side window works fine . But the passenger side window is not working at all . Can anyone tell me what to do ? Please help me
great video
Coat hanger is wayyyyyy too time consuming for me. I used an existing wire that goes in to the cab. Un hook from whatever it's going to and electrical tape the wires you want to come through the doors and pull it through making sure you don't pull the existing harness wire all the way. 2 minutes max. Also, if you are adding this while you are replacing the entire wiring harness like I did you will need to bring power from the new harness to the switch in the door and run up and down (blu and tan) from the driver door to the passenger door.
i have a '76 scottsdale 10, my fusebox has the glassbulbs, i have doors from a '80 burban. will i need to tweak the fusebox toproperly run the doors?
Anybody have any solution for the passenger side window not working from either switch? The driver window works fine. Passenger window seems to be jammed up about 2 inches from the top resting position. I have my door panel off and I just can't seem to find where exactly the motor and regulator are. Any help is appreciated!
Has anyone done this with rear doors for a suburban or crew cab ?
Dos LMC have a kit like this for the tail gate motor on a Blazer? They have the same slow window problem as the doors and it's usually worse than the doors.
que buen video.. casualmente mi camioneta presenta ese detalle..
Hola Señor Menezes, Que camioneta tiene?
@@Lmctruck1 tengo una chevrolet silverado año 1985 original..pero esta un poco mas deteriorada del modelo del cual ud muestra en su programa.. soy super fanatico de las c10 de los años 80s.. pero mi pickup soñada siempre fue la pickup apache del año 1955.. mi papa me regalo una silverado del año 1978..fue mi primer auto para ir a la universidad..
Anyone know the size of the screws holding the kick panels? Too big for 1/4", too small for 7mm.
Could this be modified and used for rear doors on a crew cab truck or suburban?
Can this work on 88-98
Would this harness work on a 88-94 Silverado ??
I am replacing manual doors with complete power doors. The harness is spliced after the "conduit" by the hinge. Can I use this instead of splicing into my trucks harness??
No, this was not designed to be used as a stand alone harness.
Man, a bunch of soldering experts in the comments.
Thats because thats a piss poor shitty job
How many pins did the switch have?
I hooked mine up the same way you did. And nothing the " brown" wire is more of a black if you ask me but there is a brown wire/gray wire. Do we use that one??
Sorry to say but you can't rely on the colors of the wires, to be really sure you have to "find" the right wire using an electrical testing tool or whatever the name is in english. Car manufacturers seem to enjoy switching colors and positions of wires sometimes, making stuff a bit more frustrating!
( 3 years working with car wiring and equipment installation, so i'm no expert )
Hey Kevin Good job
Those are terrible connections, and something's going to vibrate loose at some point and short out.
If you're going to do it, do it right and use a linesman's splice. No sense in having to rip everything apart again to fix it in a couple of months.
escusme whats the name of the grill ? how can i ordered?
How do you disconnect the fuse wire
Why not include links to the items mentioned in this vid on your website?
Hello. If you view the how to videos on our website at www.lmctruck.com we do have the option to select shop now.
What is that mounted next to the brake release kind of under the steering wheel? I have just the bracket on my 87. Thanks in advance.
you talking about the trailer brake adjuster?
all the videos on window motor replacement and not one show you to remove the vent window on 87 and older take it to the top slips out and in with ez
I have a 88 suburban with the same problem. can this be done with two kits for four doors?
This can be used for the rear doors as well.
Anyone having issues after installing this harness? My motors keep burning out and cant figure it out. Wired it just as instructed.
Hi Jonathan, if you like you can shoot an email to customercare@longmotor.net and we'll assist you the best we can.
@@Lmctruck1 Alright I think I will do so sir. Hooked everything up like video but its burned out 3 motors already. Have to replace again.
I have a 93 Chevy pickup passenger side door I was replacing the window the switch came apart the up and down window switch wires and I don't know where to go is anybody tell me where the colors go thank you
Did you ever figure it out?
what no pay off to see how much better it worked?
john knott nope! There's no video from 12:58 to 13:08 just so that you're left wonder if it worked at all
I love Bob Ross too
Does anyone know the Bosch part number for the replacement style of relays for the application?
I'd rather not go through LMC for replacements, thanks
You need a "Change Over Relay" 12Volts 30Amps 5pins: 85-86 (coil), 30 (common), 87 (Normally Open), 87a (Normally Closed). Do not forget the fuse: 15Amps.
Regards!
@@rbarriae Thanks for the response 👍
@@CaliforniaClassics530: ¡Saludos desde el sur de Chile!
For anyone interested in re-creating the equivalent of this setup, Bosch relay part number would be Bosch #0 332 209 150
Bob Ross... awesome impersonation lol
Lol I hope this harness doesn’t break the bank. I’m converting my old ass manual windows to power windows in my truck and I need a relay straight to battery just to be safe.
How much does the wire kits cost
Hi Benny! The kit Kevin is using in this video is $39.95. The part number is 36-3579.
a rubber grommet would have come in handy for that hole drilled in the cab for the power wires to the battery,and better protected against chaffing!
Great job!!
What about an 88 k5??? Any harness for that?
We do offer a heavy-duty power window harness for 1977-91 Chevy Blazers! Take a look here: www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/csb/full.aspx?Page=22
LMCTruck i also have a k5.. its an 83.. order my parts catalog already. I need to re do my window wires too
Don’t like how he ran the wires through the fire wall. You have to use some type of grommet or vibration will cause the wire to ground out over time.
I hate a bunch of wires running to the battery, just get a power block
Lmc products are ridiculously high on some things
A simpler solution ... Cut all the wires buy 2 DPDT switches w center off. Send 2 wires through the door. The switch changes the polarity of the motor ... A simple up and down. Same with the power locks. You're welcome. RWB
Richard Butterfoss terrible advice. I did this to my 86 about 5 years back. One of the kids got out on the passenger side and unknowingly hit the switch in the up position on their way out. The current ran through the wires for hours and eventually melted the whole harness from door to door.
A DPDT switch w/ "Momentary" / On-Off-On (spring loaded center return) will fix that easily. Usually will handle 20 amps. Just a matter of installing the right switch.
Got mine for about $10 ea. @ Amazon.com and they have worked fine for over 10 years so far...
@@billyjoejimbob876 will this work for putting power window doors on a truck without the stock wiring harness under the dash?
Am i the only one who noticed there's not a large brown wire on the factory harness? Instructions are out of date or just missing info.
Wow! 😱
So thats who makes the spaghetti!
Why splice in to the window motor conector if your upping the gage of the wire? Put new motor connectors on your new harness.
Why not just unbolt the door wiring bellows then fish it threw?
Soldering job lol
No grommet through the firewall.
Well LMC you want me to do your videos for you?
His wiring lol he should have used a grommet for the wiring going through the fire wall
Those connections suck! You leave the joint wide open with that shrink tube like that. Also use a proper grommet on the firewall geez
Have to agree with the majority of the comments, definitely wouldn't have ran any wiring through a firewall without a grommet. Also wouldn't have that many wires to the battery.. Turns into a rats nest quick
We need a better solution for buying this shit In Canada... $40USD turns out to be $120 CAD by the time it hits my door for fuck sakes. Just gonna make my own harness for $25. God damn LMC.. They have everything, but you pay with your left nut up in the north!
Why would he not use a simple rubber grommet to put the wires through in that hole? You start out with a nice product, and then do something ridiculous by sealing it up with Silicone? You have to be kidding me
LMC does not carry these parts I just asked them.
Hi Bradley! We apologize for any confusion. We do offer the heavy-duty power window harness 36-3579. However, these will fit the 1977-91 Chevy and GMC pickups and SUVs only. Currently, we don’t carry this part for a Dodge pickup
Or you could buy four relays.
That wiring job :( oh my god that was bad
But you didn’t show how to wire the switches. The rest is common sense
The switches are wired from factory
"how not to use heat shrink"
Four hours labor to save 1.5 seconds of rolling up your window....fantastic!
And if you have any problems- just call LMC...no tech department and no knowledgeable staff- oh yea!
Low amps burn up motors and switches its not just for speed, i have both my square bodies wired with the 4 relay set up, ive not bought any more motors or switches
Wiring isnt really your strong point I see.
this is a perfect example of how not to install this
Horrible rush job on solder. I'll live with my slow windows, not worth all this work.
i love you, kevin.. but wiring is not your thing..
It didn't work for my 86 GMC. I just ordered two double poll double throw switches and I am going to throw out the kit ... the instruction that came with it were poor. Sorry LMC ... thank you for responding to my email ... maybe .. maybe we will do business again some day.
Richard, we so sorry to hear you had issues installing this part. If at anytime you need some assistance, please give us a call.
What is the second relay for on the drivers side?
@@robinstrufe8651 it's for people who want both up *and* down. ;)
(The relay switches power to the motor; the switch activates the relay. Up is power to one terminal, and down is power to the other terminal; the motor is reversed to go the reverse direction. So each motor needs two relays, no matter how many switches are on that door.)
@@DannySauer you sound like you know how this all works. I just installed this and the driver door switch wont roll the passenger side down. Any ideas?
Thanks
@@HollywoodJoeTussing you probably cut too many wires on one side or the other. There should be probably four wires that are the same color on both sides. On the driver's side, three that aren't ground (probably black) should go back through the door jamb, and on the passenger side they come in from the jamb to the switch and also go to the motor. You've got power, so find the two extra wires that go through the jamb and reconnect them to the switch (before the relay).
This video needs to be totally redone, no detail about the relays and the switch, which is up and which is down etc.
the kit comes with detailed instructions
Also, that is a horrible splice and solder job. You can tell that Kevin doesn’t do much electrical work.
What a piss poor solder job and wire routing never mind no grommet between the wires and body, just a fire waiting to happen
This kit is junk and does not improve operation at all. In fact, my drivers window actually operates at half the speed it did before after installation of this kit. Waste of money.
Did you contact our customer service team letting us know?
@@Lmctruck1 I have not contacted customer service but I certainly can.
i've seen better wiring jobs at a high school auto shop
He should of used a grommet on the firewall instead of filling the hole with a bunch of silicone.
escusme whats the name of the grill ? how can i ordered?