Hi there, I'd like to do something similar. I have a soundbar which comes along with a subwoofer 8inch but quite underwhelming. The subwoofer does not have pre-out. Since I'm going to use only one channel(mono), do you think I could just go with either channel right or left and leave the rest wires unused? Not sure if I'm making sense.
Installed on a 23 ram 3500, the canbus does not like the additional load I’m assuming the signal sense. Worked half the time, removed and installed pac LP7-2. No issues since.
Got. Blue light on my amp and a red light on my output inverter.. how do i use the converter without hooking up my highs.. i just want my subwoofer playing
How do you connect this to a Mark Levinson factory amp in a Lexus? The recommendation from various forums has been to tap into the factory subwoofer output of the Mark Levinson amp for the input signal instead of the left and right rear fill channels, but how do you do that when the subwoofer output only has two wires and the kicker LOC2 has 4 wires (a left signal input and a right signal input). Do I tie the two positive wires on the LOC together and then the two negative wires of the LOC together first and then connect them to the single sub output wires of the factory amp ?
@@gelatoconnoisseur5389 it’s ezpz. I connected mine to the rear door speakers and ran wire under the carpet. Mine is tucked away in the b pillar on the drivers side Edit: I stole the connection at the door jamb connector pulled the interior and it took maybe 3 hours for the complete install.
I just ordered a mono amp with 2 12s for like 200$ its mtx and the amp is 600w i believe im using the factory radio cause its a newer car so should i get this 20$ kicker convertor or should i just go with the 80$ lc2i
@@stereomojo hey just curious I bought new door speakers, tweeters, rear speakers, a used subwoofer and amplifier and I want to wire it all to my stock head unit (I ran out of money for a new head unit I'm trying to keep this build cheap). I am not a smart person. I'm ready to give up and pay someone else to do this. How much should I expect to spend on taking this into a shop and having them wire it all up for me? Sorry if it's rude to ask this question. ill try and do it on my own but I don't wanna fry the car's electrics by being a n00b I need that thing to work.
Is there a way to hook up beat in a2024 Kia seltos to with out splicing into the car speaker ? Just asking cause I. Got told if I hook up beat in my car it avoid my warranty trying to to find a way to still have beat and not void my warranty
you run this to the aftermarket speaker amp and then from the aftermarket speaker amp, you run a small RCA set to the Sub amp. so you only need one of these LOCs to provice signal to the amp(s)
Yeah you can it’s gonna be a headache to install them make sure they come with a remote wire saves you a headache your already gonna have to tap into a high level signal saves you having to find a remote wire to tap into
It says it can go up to 8 volts but i dont see any dials to turn it up or down if need be so does that mean it just automatically boost the signal to 8volts?
My mega cab has the connection under the box. Easy to access. So was hoping that would work to tap into. Just wondering if it would be safe cause its coming from an amp source..
I'm very heavily considering buying the kicker loc2 to hook up to my amp from my fact radio. I have a 2007 mdx. My subs are dual voice coil and pushing 600watts at 2ohms and my amp is pushing 500 watts rms x1 channel. These are not max factors, just how i wanted it wired. Can the kicker kisloc2 be able to handle and push out the approorlate power to help aid my subwoofer system?
Ok might sound dumb but can you use this for your 4 channel amp? I wanna use it to save me 30 some feet of wire. I can just run the RCAs back and then the wires to the amp right? Just need 2 of em. But would I have to disconnect the current speaker wires I have hooked up to the radio?
You would use two of these, and you would cut the speaker leads coming out of your factory radio and connect them to the four wires on each of the two units. You ground them as well, you can connect both grounds to one place. You can also connect both remote wires to one remote wire (read my next sentence) and then to your 4 channel amp. From there, you need what is called a 9 conductor speaker wire or a ‘9-wire’. It has the 8 speaker wires for four channels and the blue remote wire in a jacketed sleeve for a clean protected installation. That is what you connect to your amplifier outputs and remote connection and then back to your factory speaker wires that you cut, going to the speakers.
Does this mean that 1) I can connect my remote line from amp into this without having to tap into a fuse? And 2) With this connected to remote, the amp will only be powered on when there's an active signal going through the LOC so if I turn my music off, the amps will power off until music comes through it again? If so wouldn't that be a pretty big benefit to save your amp life? Let's say you're driving thousands of miles but not playing music. Well the amps are still powered on, granted they're not working hard but they're still on when the aux is on, depending on the fuse I tapped of course. But would this save some amp life or at least some components of the amp? And could there be any I'll effects like let's say it takes my amp a few seconds to power on and off, could this cause that while playing a track, the first few seconds I could be missing sound from one of both of my amps? Or, do most amps juice up and immediately pump sound as soon as the remote triggers the draw?
I'm also wondering how it would respond to silence in a track. If it would cut your amp power if the track gets too silent. Or, is there always going to be power running through your speaker lines while the stock unit is powered on, and therefore, it will just power on your amp when head unit is powered on, and power it off when it's off?
Or, is it linked to audio signal like if the track gets quiet, suddenly there's too little power going through the line to keep the LOC on? I don't know a ton about this but it seems like even with no audio going through to the speakers, that if the head unit is on there's still probably a little juice running right? Kind of idle, waiting to pump out the juice in response to changes in the audio signal?
If you don't know the precise answer to any of these questions that's fine, what I really want to know is, at the end of the day, if you've used this at all, in an actual system, how does it behave is what I'm really wanting to know. When does it power on and off the amps, when it hears audio? Or when the head unit goes to on state? This could be the optimal way to connect my new system. I'd like to have my amps be off as much as possible while not using them, without some sort of switch on the remote tap.
Hi there, I'd like to do something similar. I have a soundbar which comes along with a subwoofer 8inch but quite underwhelming. The subwoofer does not have pre-out. Since I'm going to use only one channel(mono), do you think I could just go with either channel right or left and leave the rest wires unused? Not sure if I'm making sense.
Installed on a 23 ram 3500, the canbus does not like the additional load I’m assuming the signal sense. Worked half the time, removed and installed pac LP7-2. No issues since.
What problem were you experiencing? I’m debating between these two LOCs
Got. Blue light on my amp and a red light on my output inverter.. how do i use the converter without hooking up my highs.. i just want my subwoofer playing
How do you connect this to a Mark Levinson factory amp in a Lexus?
The recommendation from various forums has been to tap into the factory subwoofer output of the Mark Levinson amp for the input signal instead of the left and right rear fill channels, but how do you do that when the subwoofer output only has two wires and the kicker LOC2 has 4 wires (a left signal input and a right signal input).
Do I tie the two positive wires on the LOC together and then the two negative wires of the LOC together first and then connect them to the single sub output wires of the factory amp ?
If you don’t know what you’re doing pay a professional before you fuck up your cars infotainment system. Trust me.
Why would anyone follow your advice?
An admitted fuck up…
I’m letting Best Buy install one in my gs300 soon. I’ll let you know how they do it if you haven’t already figured it out.
@@gelatoconnoisseur5389 it’s ezpz. I connected mine to the rear door speakers and ran wire under the carpet. Mine is tucked away in the b pillar on the drivers side
Edit: I stole the connection at the door jamb connector pulled the interior and it took maybe 3 hours for the complete install.
I just ordered a mono amp with 2 12s for like 200$ its mtx and the amp is 600w i believe im using the factory radio cause its a newer car so should i get this 20$ kicker convertor or should i just go with the 80$ lc2i
Both will do the job just fine!
@@stereomojo hey just curious I bought new door speakers, tweeters, rear speakers, a used subwoofer and amplifier and I want to wire it all to my stock head unit (I ran out of money for a new head unit I'm trying to keep this build cheap).
I am not a smart person. I'm ready to give up and pay someone else to do this. How much should I expect to spend on taking this into a shop and having them wire it all up for me?
Sorry if it's rude to ask this question. ill try and do it on my own but I don't wanna fry the car's electrics by being a n00b I need that thing to work.
Is there a way to hook up beat in a2024 Kia seltos to with out splicing into the car speaker ? Just asking cause I. Got told if I hook up beat in my car it avoid my warranty trying to to find a way to still have beat and not void my warranty
The only way that I can think of doing it without splicing is to come right off of a rear speaker at the speaker terminals
Ive got that one but i cant get my amp to turn on the loc has the red light on but my amp isnt coming on
Did u ground the amp
why isnt the red light on?
What happens when your amp wont shut off when installing the kisloc2?
U ain't connect it right
im a bit late to the party but how would go I go on about connecting 2 amps? Do I need 2 of these LOCs or can I do something diffrent?
Just use a split RCA out to both amps and you're good.
you run this to the aftermarket speaker amp and then from the aftermarket speaker amp, you run a small RCA set to the Sub amp. so you only need one of these LOCs to provice signal to the amp(s)
Can I use any rca output converter ? For my ram 2015
Yeah you can it’s gonna be a headache to install them make sure they come with a remote wire saves you a headache your already gonna have to tap into a high level signal saves you having to find a remote wire to tap into
What is better this Kicker LOC or the PAC SNI-35?
Kicker LOC
It says it can go up to 8 volts but i dont see any dials to turn it up or down if need be so does that mean it just automatically boost the signal to 8volts?
I’m wondering the same thing
Your volume knob is what controls it, meaning its proportional to your volume level
@@Mr.Thermistor7228 this seems to sound better than having a gain adjustment on your LOC?
Should i tap into door speakers or oem sub connection?
My mega cab has the connection under the box. Easy to access. So was hoping that would work to tap into. Just wondering if it would be safe cause its coming from an amp source..
@@TheCanineGuy yes, that should work just fine
I see a lot of people, but the two positives I’m two negatives together, is that right or should I just connect them one per wire?
@@TheCanineGuy I’d put them together. That way both RCAs will have signal coming out of the LOC
I'm very heavily considering buying the kicker loc2 to hook up to my amp from my fact radio. I have a 2007 mdx. My subs are dual voice coil and pushing 600watts at 2ohms and my amp is pushing 500 watts rms x1 channel. These are not max factors, just how i wanted it wired. Can the kicker kisloc2 be able to handle and push out the approorlate power to help aid my subwoofer system?
Yes
Ok I thank you greatly sir. @@stereomojo
@@zaytyga no problem!
Ok might sound dumb but can you use this for your 4 channel amp? I wanna use it to save me 30 some feet of wire. I can just run the RCAs back and then the wires to the amp right? Just need 2 of em. But would I have to disconnect the current speaker wires I have hooked up to the radio?
What did you do ?
You would use two of these, and you would cut the speaker leads coming out of your factory radio and connect them to the four wires on each of the two units. You ground them as well, you can connect both grounds to one place. You can also connect both remote wires to one remote wire (read my next sentence) and then to your 4 channel amp. From there, you need what is called a 9 conductor speaker wire or a ‘9-wire’. It has the 8 speaker wires for four channels and the blue remote wire in a jacketed sleeve for a clean protected installation. That is what you connect to your amplifier outputs and remote connection and then back to your factory speaker wires that you cut, going to the speakers.
@@caseyalexander2244 thank you sm I might just do that to make it easier for me!
I used this for my subs and it's been great. But I used it for my mids and I'm getting a Humm from the speakers at zero volume.
Wait how explain?
Does this mean that
1) I can connect my remote line from amp into this without having to tap into a fuse?
And
2) With this connected to remote, the amp will only be powered on when there's an active signal going through the LOC so if I turn my music off, the amps will power off until music comes through it again? If so wouldn't that be a pretty big benefit to save your amp life? Let's say you're driving thousands of miles but not playing music. Well the amps are still powered on, granted they're not working hard but they're still on when the aux is on, depending on the fuse I tapped of course. But would this save some amp life or at least some components of the amp? And could there be any I'll effects like let's say it takes my amp a few seconds to power on and off, could this cause that while playing a track, the first few seconds I could be missing sound from one of both of my amps? Or, do most amps juice up and immediately pump sound as soon as the remote triggers the draw?
I'm also wondering how it would respond to silence in a track. If it would cut your amp power if the track gets too silent. Or, is there always going to be power running through your speaker lines while the stock unit is powered on, and therefore, it will just power on your amp when head unit is powered on, and power it off when it's off?
Or, is it linked to audio signal like if the track gets quiet, suddenly there's too little power going through the line to keep the LOC on?
I don't know a ton about this but it seems like even with no audio going through to the speakers, that if the head unit is on there's still probably a little juice running right? Kind of idle, waiting to pump out the juice in response to changes in the audio signal?
If you don't know the precise answer to any of these questions that's fine, what I really want to know is, at the end of the day, if you've used this at all, in an actual system, how does it behave is what I'm really wanting to know. When does it power on and off the amps, when it hears audio? Or when the head unit goes to on state? This could be the optimal way to connect my new system. I'd like to have my amps be off as much as possible while not using them, without some sort of switch on the remote tap.
You thinking too deep. It will stay on if your car is on. Yes, the remote is going out is for the amp
@@DarrinLintz710bro thanks some other video said to run it to the fusebox or tap it in to a speaker
Just get the lc2i and be done with it.
What is the benefit?
@@donaldalderman2424a lighter wallet
It's a Walmart brand now.