BRIGGS and STRATTON 18.5 hp V Twin OHV INTEK Engine CARBURETOR REBUILD. Lawnmower sat for 5 years!
Вставка
- Опубліковано 27 лис 2017
- An in depth tutorial on HOW TO REBUILD REPAIR FIX a CARBURETOR on ALL newer style BRIGGS and STRATTON V-twin cylinder OHV INTEK Engines. 18.5 Horsepower motor (covers ALL HP motors). WILL NOT RUN , WON'T START. Rider has been sitting in STORAGE for 5 years! Carb. REMOVAL take off. SAME PROCEDURE on ALL OHV Intek v twins RIDING LAWN MOWER Poulan , Craftsman, Husqvarna , Yard Machines , Troy-Bilt , John Deere lawnmower model etc....
CARBURETOR REBUILD Fuel system cleaning. Fuel pump test check , Fuel filter , fuel lines and Carb FLOAT NEEDLE VALVE all replaced.
Music by my band! BonzaiRod
Donations are greatly appreciated!
Donations can be made by clicking on the link below
www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr...
Copyright 2017 Jeff's Little Engine Service
For T-Shirts and Parts, visit my website!
www.jeffslittleengineservice.com
Sponsored in part by GRIP Tools, "they help me help you, check them out"
gripontools.net/
PLEASE KEEP IN MIND when you are watching my videos: I am demonstrating the least expensive, quickest "backyard", "backwoods"methods for repairing or servicing your lawnmower. Replacing all components such as gaskets and fuel lines is always recommended when rebuilding or repairing equipment. With these videos I hope you are able to fix and repair your lawnmower yourself with minimal parts, knowledge and tools. Remember to always work safely and follow proper mechanic procedures. Thank you for watching!
Jeff
watching for first time. Like anyone who has worked on motorcycles over the years, an impact wrench is a must when working on small engines.
The assembly of the lawn mower could be done without any problems ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxTPN04aT-Qdjr_KS3ql7ng8wnU3wwsCqk also recommend I just puzzled something about the red strange “key”. However, it quickly turned out that this creates a kind of contact bridge between battery packs and lawn mowers. An additional backup as a father of a 1 year old nephew is great!! :-)
Thank you for the information. You showed me exactly what I needed to know about the carburetor on my Intek engine.
Just for getting the screw out I give you my thumb up, you've given me an idea of how to deal with a similar issue. Thanks for the video.
Your a great teacher Jeff, I love your videos especially when you get to a place you haven't been before, like the exhaust manifold to get to the carb. "What the heck?" Shows that you don't know everything but it doesn't matter. Keep up the good work my friend 💪👍🇺🇸
Thanks for watching friend!
Jeff - Your tutorial saved the day for me! My 18.5 hp twin was surging last year at the end of the season, so I didn't bother to fix it. I knew I would have to do something this year, but wasn't sure what, or where to begin. Following your tutorial, I was able to get my OHV INTEK running like a champ! Haven't tried it at actually cutting grass yet, but your step-by-step video was invaluable in what I hope is the fix! Thanks for your video!
Awesome. I was having problems getting my mower to start after sitting a couple years. I've been playing around with the carb, but never thought to check the fuel solenoid plunger. Yup. It was stuck. Unstuck the plunger and it started right up. Thanks for the inspiration!
Glad to find this video Jeff. Followed it and have a poulan 25hp running well now!
Good job ,I have the same riding lawn mower.Now I know to service my lower thank you guy
Nice video ! FYI with a clean hose, hook on fuel tube to carb. While you have ( float bowl off ) put hose in your lips to blow air and you can check seat by lifting the float !
Thank you for making this video. Without it, I would never have been able to disassemble and clean my carb myself. It helped a lot! Oh and based off of other's comments, I was having the same problem with the stuck screws and using an impact driver worked perfectly.
Very informative. You can also tap the end of your screw driver with a small hammer while turning the small screws out.
great tip!
Good job, very complicated but persistence pays off....
Before trying to remove locked up screws, put a flat head or philips screwdriver into the screw and give the screwdriver a couple taps with a hammer to break the screw loose. Or use a locking pliers to grip the end of the screw and unscrew it that way - worked for me !
Thank you very much Jeff! Your video was just want I needed to help me troubleshoot and fix my engine issues! Greatly appreciate your posting it.
Glad it helped
Thank you Sir for sharing!
Attempting this today.
This helped me out greatly. Only thing I did different was bypass that sylonoid. By cutting that post off so it couldn't break again..
Jeff, as a retired mechanic I taught the apprentices to clean the area that is being worked on before starting the job, it's a good practise to get into. Good video otherwise, thank you.
ATH3157 that's the first thing I always do,some people dunk a dirt clad carb into the cleaner,,it burns me up to see that
Yep I agree ☝️
Genau! 3 Regeln sind immer zu beachten==
1.Sauberkeit
2.SAUBERKEIT
3.S A U B E R K E I T !!
MEIN PERSÖNLICHES CREDO.
🎉😅
You get good results. Great to watch. For loosening screws, Iuse a hand-held spring type impact driver. Hit it with a hammer and the screws come loose.
Followed your video to clean carb on my Honda H2417 Twin which was surging on full throttle, worked like a charm thank you sir
Glad it helped
Thank You for the information this helped a great deal. same unit as mine.
Thanks so much for this video. It helped me a bunch!
Whatever you do don’t over tighten, great video
The reason for all that smoke when you finally started was because you had gas mixed in with your oil after sitting so long due not having a gas shut off line, I would recommend changing the oil before running a long period of time,
Really helpful! Thank you so so much!
Just want to add my comment to that of GREG McCarter in regard to using an impact driver with hammer to remove stubborn screws like the tough ones you beat up with the chisel and hammer. By using the impact driver with hammer you can usually accomplish the removal of very stubborn screws while causing no damage. Great suggestion GREG McCarter! Nick, North West Farmer
Watched your video and started working on an early 2000's 20 hp B&S V Twin that has been sitting up 4 or 5 years. The intake manifold is a little different from yours and the inside of the carb is a little different but the entire job was the same as your video. I even asked the exact same question you did in the beginning "how do I get this thing off?". Gotta get a new battery and fuel filter. Gonna try to remove and clean the gas tank also. We'll see how good of a job I did. Thanks for the main jet part #.
I second the impact driver idea
Learn alot from this video, Thanks
Tech Tip # 68 - To remove stubborn bolts and screws Put a screwdriver on the screw and tap the top of the driver with a hammer. This should loosen the bolt much easier the pulling out the heavy hardware of hammer and chisel.
Great video
I stopped stripping those screws when I started using the drill or impact. I would use vise-grips to reinstall the damaged screws and that would actually work for those that are reading this with a worried look on your face.
I like the way you always say not to over tighten. My Father was always saying that to me when I was a teen , now I am saying the same thing to my son, I can tell he doesnt like it haha.
Akte weisheit beim schraubenanziehen : Nach fest, kommt ab!😊
Good video. You might want to try using an "Impact Driver" to loosen those really tight Philips head screws.
C+ video. You waited 4 days for a new needle but didn't buy the float bowl gasket or replace the seat for the needle valve.( yes, the seat is serviceable ) or buy the o-rings for the fuel shut off solenoid or jets. The internal rubber goes bad just like those fuel lines that you replaced. Over all, still a good job. P.S.,don't over tighten it cause you'll strip it... Lol
Honestly, I was scared for him!!! 😂 when he didn’t know the carburetor was attached to the exhaust manifold, I was like, oh ooo Good job man, i’m a little bit halfway through watch of this, I think I’ve seen enough.
It's not attached to the exhaust manifold, it's attached to the intake manifold.
more afraid for someone who doesn't know the difference between exhaust manifold and intake manifold....
too good your my teacher.i learn alot.
thanks friend
Always blow out area with compressed air and brush/wipe off. Take pics to help reassembly. I always put lithium grease on intake gaskets and O-rings and antiseize on rust prone fastener threads. Definitely anti-seize the intake bolts if they are dissimilar metals such as the aluminum heads. The gas in the fuel tank is often overlooked, it is five years old too. Empty tank and blow it out. Not a chisel fan...use the impact driver like others said. Then use vice-grips if that doesn’t work. I would wire brush more than you did, lots of corrosion on the fuel valve.
good tips
@@JeffsLittleEngineService😅😅😅😅😅
Little tab for elect connect is probably on ground. But I’m not texting to hate on ya. Cause I’ve done some real stupid stuff takin stuff apart! I have blown things up!☠️ And zapped myself with electricity!⚡️So picking you apart for doing something wrong is wrong for anyone to do. I’m glad Your teaching me what my carb looks like before I blow it to pieces!😎☠️
There you go that help me out thanks a lot
Thanks...I was afraid that the manifold and cover had to come off to get at this darn carburetor, but was sure hoping I was wrong....
Good video, but if I may suggest to your viewers, you may want to consider the followings before going through the entire carburetor disassembly that maybe entirely unnecessary:
First check the anti-backfire solenoid wires to see if you are actually getting 12V power from the ignition switch arriving to the solenoid switch.
If the ignition/power switch works OK and the solenoid is not clicking on/off, then simply remove the solenoid from the carburetor without any major manifold disassembly. If solenoid is stock, then use carburetor cleaner to dislodge any gumming residues. You may also use a q-tip to inspect the inside the fuel bulb (from solenoid hole) and if any evidence of major gumming up, then spray the carburetor cleaner through solenoid mounting hole to flush out any old gas residues. This will save you a lot of time and need for new carburetor gaskets.
If you have to replace the solenoid, you can find a replacement solenoid for about $5 from eBay without buying a new carburetor (about $18).
To loosen up the carburetor bulbs, consider spraying screws with penetrating oil or few drops of Kerosene, and to speed things up, use a 150w electric soldering iron gun to heat up the screws only. To transfer heat more efficiently, drop a little solder on each screw hole (it will pop up quickly when the solder gets cold). This will ease up any screw removal and help penetrating oil to permeate under the screws.
If you are in a jam and solenoid is not recoverable, then simply use a screw or a plastic plug (you may use some silicon glue with a plastic plug for temporary use until you order a replacement solenoid). Also you may use a silicon glue if the gaskets are damages during your reassembly until the replacement arrives.
THE FINAL NOTE:
I HAVE HAD VARIOUS LAWN TRACTORS and EVERY TIME I bought a new lawn tractor, I installed a $2 fuel line valve (many years before and after anti-back fire solenoids were added to the lawn tractors) and always shut off the engine after closing the valve and allowing the entire fuel in the line is consumed before parking the tractor, and I am yet to have any gummed up carburetors in last 45 years. A $2 fuel line valve investment that has saved me many hours and hundreds of dollars. Hope these are helpful hints.
GREAT TIPS! thanks friend!
Do you know the part number for the carburetor?
Strange carb set up. Something about mower repair men having patience. I sometimes use Vice grips to get the screws loose. Great vid.
Awesome Video
I actually enjoyed watching this video. I usually don’t watch videos this long. But I was entertained. My old Scott’s by John Deere needs a little work. But I am going to replace my carb to bring it back to life. But I have to remember to burn all the gas out. But while I am at it I will change out the fuel lines and blow out the filter. I didn’t know that. But thanks for your time.
should clean the outside of carb initially to keep crud from getting to inside parts.
Great video sir
thanks friend
Good video thanks for sharing I just want say how come you dident change the oil and I like to clean my fly wheel magnet where the magneto makes connection and the magneto heads just to make sure everything has good connection cause can get really rusty from moisture and also new spark plug
A electrical wire strippers are a handy tool to fit in narrow gap to remove selinoid instead of grinding wrench
good tip, use what ya have!
Nice job
Those screws on the carb,,I use a impact driver,with hammer, sometimes I use vice grips..one out of ten comes out easy,with screw driver
That was a hot mess. Good job bro. Another 1 sent back home.
I appreciate your videos. Try putting a dab of valve grinding compound on the tip of your Phillips bit. It will give you a much better chance of removing the screw without rounding it
Unfortunately I'm in this "boat" now. Husqvarna ran out of gas so I immediately filled it up but it just wouldn't start. Replaced fuel filter, air filter, checked pump, fresh gas, everything works fine. It will start but only run with full choke. So something is limiting fuel flow (?). I guess I should start with the switch and go from there. Worst case is I replace it for under $100. Anyway, thanks for the video. It's very comprehensive and helpful..
Update: I completely took apart the Carb, and everything looked perfect so I cleaned everything out, put it back together, started it up and to my surprise it ran better than before. I couldn't see any blockage but there must have been in one/some of the ports. Anyway. Highly recommend blowing everything out with Carb cleaner or WD40 (I use this). Hopefully this will work for others and save them some hard earned $$. I did replace fuel filter and air filter because it needed it desperately. Thanks again for the detailed post it helped a lot.
Nice job, you had me worried a few times. Those screw are Japanese Industrial Standard. JIS. Not quite American phillps size. Been there, too. A co worker is from Japan, and her sister is coming to visit for Christmas. I’m trying to get her bring me a set. They’re quite pricy on the inter web, maybe cheaper if she brings them.Glad you got her running.
oh wow! good information thank you!
i like your style :)
thanks friend
Use an impact driver to remove stuck fasteners
The access to those shaft bolts can only be accessed from the back after you remove the intake parts.
I have this exact motor on my Troy built 42 inch. I’ve noticed it has a miss. Doesn’t affect the drive or cut. Everything works perfect. At idle it has a miss. New spark plug and fresh gas. Carb seems to be pretty clean. Any ideas?
NICE SHOES...
vice grips on stuck screws makes it super easy to get them out if no impact driver is available .
Thanks!!!!
32:45 I saw the trick spitting on the connection to make the hose slide on. I do that too.
Good vid. Make sure not to over tighten.
gonna be doing this tomorow except it's on a 21 hp
11:14 PBlaster let soak overnight.
Then, if needed, touch butane torch flame tip to head.
A fairly informative vid but you should have cleaned the passageways under the fuel inlet plate which is where the problem lies with these carbs when the engine only runs on one cylinder. Have had many do the same thing. The nozzles can get one piece of dirt or rubber stuck and the fuel won't flow.
good tip!
I was just wondering g why you did not clean out the Air box before you put the Air filter back in.it appeared to be dirty to me.
yes, it was dirty. I should have cleaned it better
I tap my Titan Phillips Head screwdriver with a hammer one good time to break all carburetor screws loose before I break them free.
good tip!
you need to change the oil it flooded the crankcase with gas and thin the oil.it was shooting gas out of the muffler
I just took one of these carbs off today and ended up on the one of 2 bolts the holds the float bowl on i used a lockable vise grip believe me these was my only issue i did strip the area out no matter what i used flat or Philip screw driver .. i got one thing to ask when i got it all back together the lawn mower runs very nice at the high rpm but ran shitty on low but it was the opposite before taking apart WHY IS THAT IT SEEMS JUST ABIT DIFFERENT THAN ONE SHOWIN HERE BUT MOST OF ITS THE SAME
Best comment ever . I wish I new what I was doing . I like you snap on special tool list price 100.00 US dollars . Thanks
lol!
Can you replace single to dual carb on 22hp Briggs straton
vice grip would be my best for those screws
That solenoid on the carburetor bowl is just an anti-backfire valve, I generally cut the stem off of them and they run great. But that's just what I do, it works for me but do it at your own risk.
When mine drops dead cutting it off sounds better to me than $50 to replace it so I'll give it a shot.
Einzelfall!!! Man sollte es original lassen....die Entwickler werden sich schon was gedacht haben
Yeah these v engines are very labor intensive, give me an opposed twin any day of the week.
That's what I have and its 21 yrs old still runs great and doesn't leak or burn a drop of oil. Had to go through the carb last year but that was my fault because I was running ethanol fuel in it. Run non ethanol fuel now and she runs like a top!
Like you, I just love the opposed twin. Best motor ever built in MY opinion
@@garryludwick2990 agreed.
@@msclecarcrzy mine burns oil like I own Saudi Arabia. But I never have to change it so that's a plus. I just top it off before every run.
not starting? Check if you hear that little solenoid switch in the carb bowl click when you you turn the ignition on - mine didnt (coroded connector)
Always use a small set vice grip for tough screws easy peasy
Oh ya and there's your dinner lol
Where do you buy rebuild kit.
I tap on those 2 bowl nuts a bit makes bit easier,,sometimes lol
good tip!
Use a baby sized channel lock for the solenoid.
At 3:25 the wheel thingy is part of the throttle. When I start my mower it is instantly in the highest gear and sounds like it’s going to explode I cannot change gears any suggestions?
It could be that the internal govenor mechanism has come apart or failed
You could grab them two screws with visegrips from the side to break them free...at 13:30
Are you working with flip flops on your feet . Now I seen it all .good info . Thanks
Those have no thongs so they're slides. Know your sandals!
small pair of vice grips to crack those screws
Where's your 1/4 inch impact for those screws and why are you working on the ground? This is the first time i've seen your channel so im wondering where all the subs came from.
Agree,, i hate working on d ground,, too🤮
Hey Jeff I've been doing small engine repair for 3 years now...working on this same engine ...replaced the carb with a new one...a month later its running rough...opened the carb and its clean enough to eat off of...cleaned it anyway... I Figured it was the Anti backfire solenoid malfunctioning so i cut the tip off. Now it only runs with choke on very low (rpms) low idle...when I turn choke off or throttle up it dies ..any info???
If it was a cheap aftermarket carburetor, that is probably the problem. I only recommend Genuine Briggs and Stratton carburetors.
@@JeffsLittleEngineService yes and that it was...thanks for replying.
sorry - chick question coming up... i always drain the gas out of my BS craftsman lawn mower but have never drained the carb like i do on my honda small engines - for exactly the reason you showed - too freakin' hard to get at!!! but i didn't know you could take the solenoid off... is that a way to drain the rest of the gas out? i invested in a set of really thin wrenches - literally less than quarter inch thick so should be easy to get it off..
After you drain the gas tank, you can start and run the engine until it dies, this will get most of the gas out of the carburetor also.
I’m having trouble with the throttle linkage….. can u give me an approximate measurement on that plz.. I’m having to make one 😔
It’s about the same length as chock rod
I didn't see you hook up the breather hose on the back side of the carb when you reattached it to the engine. You better go back and fix that.
Haha! you are right, I had to go back in and hook it up!
To start the removal...vice grips on the head just to break loost then driver
Where is the oil pressure switch located at on this engine?
It does not have one.
Thank you! That’s what I was thinking! Thinking I was going crazy!
Think you will find that the fuel solenoid plug is shaped to connect one-way only.
(Polarity sensitive.)
Also, apart from the consideration of finger-loss-syndrome, it's not a good idea to run an air-cooled engine for more than a minute or two without the covers.....easily overheated.
Do you use WD-40 to clean the Carb. Parts?
No, I use carburetor cleaner that comes in a aerosol spray can
Jeff's Little Engine Service duh sorry I didn’t think of the question before I asked 🙄🤪 thank you for sharing and being so kind❣️❣️✨💫
The foam filter goes on top of the air cleaner, not underneath
Oops
Medina, Jeff had it on correctly.
Jeff use a impack driver on bowl screws
Yes good tip! I was bit cautious because I didn't want to damage anything. It is cast aluminum so gotta be careful.
I use it all the time, just put in padded vice
Why not use vise grips on screws? Great video
that works too sometimes!
My carb kit for my B&S carb was $55 off of eBay. Its an actual OEM kit, NOT one from Hopsing in China!.....Thing is I can purchase a NEW carburetor for only $72
By the way, good job on the fuel pump. A better way is with wife's small fingers to pinch when you put it together.
You should had turned carb up where gas lines fits take that cover off and clean the holes gas goes up in there