How to Soundproof a Door | DIY Door Soundproofing for under $50
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- Опубліковано 26 кві 2020
- hush.info
We have been getting a lot of calls asking "how to soundproof a door". Corona Virus has most people in close quarters at home, they need a little more privacy from neighbors, roommates, family... This is the cheapest door soundproofing option available. It's easy to install. I'm going to walk you through step by step. If you follow these steps you will hear a significant reduction in sound. You can use this on any door in your house.
A good rule of thumb for soundproofing is, if you can see light, you can hear sound. The basic principal is to make your door as airtight as possible. When you are done, you will hear the air trying to pull through, in some cases sucking the door back. If someone is sick in your house, this may also help keep that room closed off from contaminating the air outside of the door. I'm not a doctor but from what I have learned from various media sources about COVID19, this could be a good extra precaution.
You will see a significant 10 db + reduction between the frequencies of 200 hertz - 25 kh. This is NOT a studio door soundproofing treatment, it's designed to help people at home get a little more privacy and if installed correctly, it works great.
I'm using Frost King products to keep it easy, accessible and affordable. You can find most of these Frost King products on Amazon, Lowes, or Home Depot.
Materials Needed:
Frost King Door Set
Amazon: amzn.to/2Sb8mGW
Frost King Thermoplastic Rubber Weather Seal (Gaps 1/16- 5/16 inch)
Amazon: amzn.to/2zCkvhR
Frost King Premium Rubber Weather Seal (Gaps 1/8- 1/4 inch)
If your gap between the door and door frame is over 1/8 inch use this instead of thermoplastic, it's a more dense neoprene rubber and better for soundproofing
Amazon: amzn.to/2ScQT0V
(2) Frost King EZ Stick Sweep or Heavy Duty Weight Aluminum Door Sweep
Amazon: amzn.to/2yRg565
Tools Needed:
Aviation Snips
Amazon: amzn.to/2YazsBV
Utility Knife
Amazon: amzn.to/3eXsJBi
Drill
Amazon: amzn.to/2xTduJ3
Measuring Tape
Amazon: amzn.to/3f0tIAS
Step 1: Measure the Door Frame
Start with the top of the door. After you install the top portion of the Frost King door set, you can accurately measure for the 2 sides.
While the door is closed, press the vinyl strip against the door lightly. If you apply too much pressure, the door won't close properly, so make sure to open and close the door after you have a couple screws in to see if it needs to be loosened up.
Step 2: Install the Door Sweeps
Wipe down the bottom of the door, remove any dust to ensure the adhesive will stick. Measure the door sweeps to the width of the door. This can be an extra 1/8 inch for the outside of the door, measure precisely for the inside of the door so it can open and close properly. Use the aviation snips to cut the door sweep. Allow the door sweep to have an extra 1/8 - 1/4 inch drag. This will help keep the the door air tight. We are using 2 door sweeps to optimize the sound reduction on the bottom of the door, one on each side. In most cases, this is the primary cause for sound transfer.
Step 3: Install Weather Stripping
Using Weather stripping further tightens the gaps between the door and door frame, so in this treatment we are killing sound from 2 different angles the outer and inner door frame. Weather stripping is used commonly in studio door soundproofing for iso-booths and the entrance door. The more material we put between the sound source and the receiver of sound, the better chances we have to reduce the noise level.
Wipe down the door frame, remove any dust to ensure the adhesive will stick. Measure the door frame. Cut the weather stripping to size, peel back the self stick tape and apply. Press firmly. Close the door to make sure it closes properly. Its ok if the door is slightly harder to close, as long as it latches and locks, you are good to go. We want some pressure to help stop sound.
Adding MLV to the back of the door can further reduce unwanted noise. Apply the MLV before installing the door sweeps. Measure the door. Add 2 inches to the Length and Width of the door for the MLV cut. Apply PL 500 adhesive to the back of the door. Get someone to help you press and hold the MLV against the door. Let the MLV hang below the door, touching the floor. Staple the MLV to the door using a staple gun (T50 Type 3/8 in. staples). Cut the excess MLV using a utility knife. You can paint MLV with acrylic or apply wallpaper for a more polished finish.
Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV)
Amazon: amzn.to/3k2zVi9
You can find more Soundproofing information at hushsoundproof.com.
I hope everyone is staying healthy and safe. Please feel free to ask questions in the comments section.
Thanks,
Ned
Owner/ Operator
Hush Soundproofing
New York | Los Angeles
This is exactly what I needed! I feel totally competent to do this project now. There are a bunch of videos on soundproofing but a lot of them aren't tutorials like this but more like a list of what you could do. Thanks for making it easy.
Awe, Thank you! Glad we could help.
Cara Elaine saved and shared.
Excellent advice.
This is how you share knowledge, straight to the point without giving me your life story. Thank you.
A video with clear instructions, useful information, short and to the point -- most importantly -- no close ups of someones face in the camera blathering on and on. Thanks.
Thank you for the encouraging words, duly noted my friend!
Nice video. Would have liked to see a comparison of before and after with a radio playing or something. Nothing too technical but just to show roughly what to expect.
Yes.
Check it out! ua-cam.com/video/XBUDu377Ib8/v-deo.html
This works great for your exterior doors to keep your home better insulated also
OMG FINALLY A GOOD TUTORIAL. Thank you thank you thank youuu
My man. Thank you for this.
@Laura Brown Hey, stop promoting on someone else's videos. It's very scummy.
Oh my gosh!!!! Thank you, thank you and thank you again! I am going to order these and use them on the front door of my condo!! I hear the neighbors conversations all the time, so this will keep those sounds at a minimum I’m sure. Thank you again!
Did you ever do this to your door? Did it actual help reduce noise from the neighbor
It works! More than 50$ where I am but still less noise, thank you!
Very helpful tutorials, great job
Excellent video. Thanks for the effort brother 🙏
That was awesome. I'll have to watch it again. Thanks
@Laura Brown Hey, stop promoting on someone else's videos. It's very scummy.
@@abunchofiguanaswithinterne2186 What's the big deal? I found the information useful and on topic. Besides, it's not your channel to begin with so buzz off.
Couple extra things people may want to consider is (1) if the door is hollow, you might wanna start with replacing it with a solid core door (~$100). (2) Making it air tight could mess with your central hvac, as air can't be sucked under the door to a return. My hvac blower is sensitive to return air blockages, so I'm going to add a return duct to be safe and allow the hvac to operate efficiently. Stick your hand at the bottom of the door when the hvac is on to see how much air usually flows through!
Hi Chris, thanks for joining the conversation, we have addressed the HVAC concern a few times. You can cut the door sweeps short at the opposite ends, allow for airflow and still have a reduction for sound. Great advice though!
solid core doors around me cheapest they sell for is 300$
Nice fast pace video with minimal talking! And no promo prompt, I had to subscribe.
great video, i liked the complete approach to soundproofing vs simply one item like a door sweep. Will look for a video on the MLV. Would love to see that if you haven't already made one.
We will work on this next year for sure.
Thanks that was great
Thanks for sharing. Got ideas from you
Garden hose screwed flat into the corners works pretty decently. It's crude and it works.
Thank you 🙏
Heck yeah I'm doing this myself 🙌🏻 thank you sm
You got this!
How did that go?
Thank you sir
Good Video. Thanks
This was both enjoyable and and very instructive to watch! Hope to see more content coming.
Great brother 👍
Thanks
Great job.
Great video
thanks!
Iam full support ♥️💙♥️
used to do almost the same thing for weather proofing automatic doors. nice vid. a battery powered jigsaw is also awesome for the cuts if available... oh nevermind. aluminum parts
alluminum farts
Finally! A method that will work for renters and is affordable on a non-existent budget. Thank you.
😊😊😊
What could we use instead of aviator snips?
I'm a bit confused whether you were using two different methods on two different doors or using two methods on the same door?
We are looking at soundproofing a door that is permanently locked on the other side by the other tenants. Would the peel and stick method work on this door? or does the door have to be open to use that method?
I like the peel and stick method best because I'm not allowed to used screws etc.
PS. I like that you had instructions on the screen and auto closed captions enabled. Kudos to you.👍
Two methods on the same door! The peel and stick works, I just reinforced it with screws. You could use a grinder to cut the metal or a metal saw. Best of luck with the project!
I loved this thanks a ton! You should do a video on floors next ^____^
Yes we have a few things in our pocket, trying to find time in between work to post more content
@@HushSoundproofing have you posted one for this yet?
Great video! In the description, you mentioned this is not for a studio door. What would be some tips for soundproofing a door at home that would be used for a home studio?
I would suggest framing a mini hallway and installing a second door. Even if it’s just a small box in the corner, 2 doors will create distance, and a large air gap. That is the easiest solution for DIY home studio. Your other option is to purchase a pre-hung soundproof door.
Thanks for this! It seems like the door bottom would wear out rather quickly and also possibly wear down the wood floor finish. I’ve recently found out about automatic door bottoms. Do you have experience with those?
TomBVoxman It will take many many years to see any sign of wear. You would have a similar issue with a door expander. Normally expanders have a similar drag at the bottom. I would suggest taping the ends of the expander after installation, poking a hole in the tape and filling with spray foam. Let it cure for 45 min. Take the tape off and cut away excess foam. Cover the foam with white caulk. Or paint to match.
That looks like it'll work great, don't know if I can do it in a rental tho
If you put the weather stripping and the door sweep will def help, those come off easily. I don’t think a LL will be deduct for making a room more livable, the treatments are white and not very noticeable. Best of luck.
Thank you! Does it matter if you use foam instead of rubber weather stripping? I have some gaps around my door that are 3/8 inch
I would suggest neoprene foam, it’s more dense, just check the packaging to be sure about the compression width - expansion width, will say something like 1/8 - 7/16
You have any suggestions as to where to buy a soundproof window and glass door preferably French door, would really appreciate any advice. Thank you
I do not have any suggestion for soundproof French doors unfortunately. Sorry about that.
Does it help much to stuff the gaps with insulation when the door is framed? Or maybe that doesn't matter so much with the two pieces of trim on the front and back? I just notice large air gaps when doors are installed.
Yes, you make a good point. When contractors frame for windows and doors, the gaps left over are normally covered with trim. Using spray foam, acoustical caulk or insulation to fill those gaps, definitely will help reduce sound transmission.
What would you recommend to sound-isolate a flat room (so loud music doesn’t annoys anyone)
Isolation mounts for the speakers is a good start
Respect to the gold Casio DBC611.
Still wearing it!
i can finally get in them buns without being too loud
Awesome video! What if the door is an exterior metal door frame near a road. Does this process still work with a metal door and doorframe?
Yes, you will need to mark and pre-drill the holes, get screws for metal. Always best to start with the cheaper solution. Street traffic, is difficult though. A new soundproof pre-hung door starts at $800. + labor. I would try this out and see how it feels first.
Hush Soundproofing gotcha! Thanks. Current scenario is light visible from the inside, already two sweeps, and metal door and frame. Literally anything will be an improvement.
I would measure the gap and get some neoprene weather stripping in a couple different widths to see what works best. You can also get a small piece of mass loaded vinyl to back the door sweeps. But yeah if you can see light, you can hear a lot of sound, anything will def be an improvement.
Can you please recommend good exterior doors for keeping noise out. I have a hollow steel door, live by an airport and the door lets in a lot of noise. I have thought of trying to fill it with foam filler. This is the year I'd like to tackle the door situation. I've also thought of solid wood for the exterior door. Thank you for your information.
Replacing an exterior door is actually pretty simple. You can get a high quality "pre-hung" door at any home center. Plenty of videos on UA-cam on how to do it.
I wouldn't try and spray foam into the door you have. There are usually baffles and ribs inside. Just buy a whole new door. You'd spend a fortune on spray foam anyway
Could you please send close ups of how you installed the stripping?
Doesn't the frost king door set already have a weather seal attached?
Yes the other weather strip is added to further reduce noise. One is fine, both is better.
Is that also okay with carpet flooring?
About how much sound reduction would this be? I don't have a professional "studio" but I do video work for my job in my room, and my wife is always able to hear me talking in my room upstairs even from downstairs or anywhere in the house. The room already has some treatment on the walls, and I have a draft stopper on the door, but the door I think is still the weak point and it's just a regular hollow door. I saw in some comments you recommended others buy a soundproofed door? Where could I get something like that? Should I hire someone to install that? Thank you.
Just buy a solid wood door
@@DeezNuts-uk7xz Just don't have a door. Solid walls cancel noise.
Why are you not doing more videos
Before ordering off Amazon and waiting for shipping just stop by a local Lowes or Home Depot. They supply Frost King products and M-D which is a different brand but essentially the same exact products.
Wait, whats wrong with Amazon? I mentioned these stores in the description
Is the door sweep removable
For example, If I am leaving my apartment to another one can I take it off?
That Watch Tho!
Lol, good eye!!
Hi thanks for the the video. Can it work for a music studio?
I suggest purchasing a pre-hung soundproof door. You will get a reduction. It wouldn’t be studio quality.
Do you have any suggestions for a door sweep for a bathroom? Reason I ask is because of the exhaust fan, i've been told that there needs to be a gap under the door to let air be sucked under. I was thinking some type of door sweep with channels that reflect sound but allow air passage. Kind of like a muffler. Thanks
That’s a great question Xavier, if you use two door sweeps, you are able to cut them both a little shorter at the opposite end. This should release some of the pressure. Sound is directional, so you will still have a reduction!
@@HushSoundproofing genius! Great thinking, I will try that out!
Is the weather stripping redundant after the frost king door set is installed?
Do more layers of different materials blocking more sound? Yes.
Hey
I have a pretty big gap at the top part of the door. what is the best way the sound proof that part?
If you want to send a picture to ned@hushsoundproof.com I'll take a look see if I can help
Can you me if your door is solid cored?
Great easy to follow videos! I am a drummer. Will this be enough to maximize the sound cancellation to the outside of my studio door? It is a standard office door.
I’m going to say no, this is just going to reduce sound by a few decibels. I think the reduction you’re looking for would be the combination of 2 doors or a single soundproof door.
@@HushSoundproofing I have noticed a reduction along with using door sweeps.
I think you’re correct with the double door. I’m going to also apply some acoustic caulk and see how that does 🤘🏼🥁
@@mattnormandrums consider taking the trim/molding off the door and filling the gap with spray foam, I like to shave the spray foam after it’s cured and seal with acoustical caulk. I have no doubt you will figure it out. You’re a drummer, smartest man in the band
@@HushSoundproofing hahaha nice. Thanks man. Let you know how it goes
I don't have an A/C return in every room and the gap at the bottom is necessary for proper home cooling/heating. How effective is this if you don't do the bottom?
Useless unless it’s completely sealed
There is one thing you could try. If you use 2 floor sweeps, cut them short by 4 in. Install them opposite each other. This should be enough of a gap to release some pressure. You should still get a decent reduction.
Great video. I've been wanting to sound proof my door _forever._ I already put on a door sweep because there was huge 3/4" gap at the bottom of my door. I just thought it was hung poorly, then I found out that my floor boards are really uneven and the door can no longer open because of the sweep. The door can only open half way before the sweep runs into ground and gets jammed. Do you have any other suggestion instead of using a sweet? The uneven floor boards prevent me from using one.
I would still use the sweep and adjust the height so that it doesn’t interfere with the floorboards.
You should put a threshold under the door, and combine that with a sweep. That way you can still get a tight fit with the door closed but you can mount the sweep higher so it doesn't drag on the floor.
Any ideas to make this work for a set of french doors specifically to deal with the gap in between the doors?
Now I can clap cheeks without the family listening in on the fun.
How would you suggest soundproofing the gap in the middle of double doors?
If it’s wood you could try to attach a 2” x 1” piece of common board (pine) at the edge of one door. Before attaching create a small gap using .5” x 1/8” neoprene weather stripping. This is a delicate piece of wood, I would pre-drill the holes for screws. You would be screwing the wood on top of the neoprene against the door. Then attach the neoprene on the other side of the wood. Your creating a lip with the wood, you may need a thinner neoprene 1/16 if you tighten down too far but you get the idea. I hope this helps!
Hello I will be putting MLV on my door can you provide a link to the PL 500 adhesive? I only see a landscape one not sure if that’s it.
amzn.to/3HmVvsJ The reason I suggest using this is because the vinyl is heavy. You might want to staple it to the door in a few spots to hold it up. I suggest cutting smaller pieces, will make it easier to deal with
Is this sufficient for sound reduction or would your recommend this with solid core doors?
Yes it is a significant amount of reduction if you follow the steps and install correctly. Studio quality, recording quality, I would recommend a solid core door, 2 of them.
First I thought you were measuring carpeting to add onto the door.
Then it looked like you were marking on your wood floor.
Then you clip the ends of a white stick with strip joint music playing.
You mention Frost King, sounds like a frig/freezer built in the 50s or 60s.
I've been trying to figure out my situation for months and videos and browsing Amazon hasn't helped.
Men can fumble around like this, I can too.......😂
do you have example for windows? like reducing the noise of car driving by...
No we don’t! I will make one soon for you!
Do you recommend handyman to do this in Tustin, CA?
Very sorry, no recommendations for Tustin CA
Question: Will this cause that sticking sound that my front and garage door cause when I open them? It's really loud on its own. I go through my room a lot at night(I'm more active at night which is why I'd love to soundproof my bedroom.)
If the floor sweeps are touching the ground it will make a noise, yes.
Could this be done on a carpet floor? And also could this be done on any door?
You could do it, I would just lighten up the drag on the door sweep, pull it up so it’s just touching the carpet barely. A lot of the sound that might transfer through that bottom gap will be absorbed by the carpet, depending on the thickness of the carpet.
Hey! Hope you see this. I want to be able to make private phone calls without my roommmates hearing. If I were on better terms with them I’d probably just do experiments like seeing what I can hear from their room etc, but I can’t. Is it the door where most of the sound goes? Also, if I’m near a window does that do anything? My room is 14ft long and I always take my calls at my desk beside the window. I don’t actually know how much or if my roommates can hear anything but would like to try improve it anyways
Yes, I would suggest at least doing the weather stripping and door sweeps. They are both self adhesive and easy to apply, please see the products I listed in the description box for the video. Good luck!
Dude! The windows do actually make a difference… I diy installed a window plug over my window to block outside noises in my bedroom but one day my wife was with my daughter in living room watching tv and I was upstairs taking my turn of a nap and when I woke up and removed the window plugs I could hear the tv noises!! I was mindblown for a minute… windows also help in reflecting sounds and vibrations throughout a house so just plug up your window (UA-cam it) and that should help with sounds transfers as well
What if you have carpet on the side of the door where your installing the bottom strip? Would the sound leak through the carpet and up under the strip?
The carpet is an absorbent material. You will still get a reduction. The sweep can drag on the carpet as well.
How much would be the difference from 2 door sweeps to 1? They're hella expensive and it's just 100 cm of it per piece.
You can also try a door extender, same principal, will be a little less expensive than buying 2 sweeps.
thanks winter soldier
Is it necessary to apply the Door Set? Would there be a difference if I don't install it?
There will be a significant difference. You will still get a reduction without. Best to do as much as possible the first time.
Does this work the same for a door that has carpet under it?
Yes
How do you guys measure gaps?
@@Lo5icaL0n3 Thank you.
I’m not really sure I understand the question? What type of gap?
Great video! That looks like the type of weather stripping I need for my electrical room door.
🤔 Any advice for a door sweep when the floor is not even? Once the door is open 90° it starts dragging.
Could install one of these amzn.to/3s6jBBA
@@HushSoundproofing oh that looks pretty cool. Thx!
I love you how much do you charge for this service? I’m interested in this job
Please email us, info@hush.info
Will this work for doors that are light/hollow/kinda of cheaply made as well?
I think what everyone needs to understand it that most of the sound you are hearing comes from the gaps around the perimeter of the door. If that doesn’t work for your reduction goals then we would be looking at installing a heavier solid core door. We’re looking at reducing airborne noise (television, talking, music from a small speaker) if you want to stop a loud subwoofer, this isn’t going to work for you. It will reduce the noise but it will not stop it.
@@HushSoundproofing Thanks for the clarification. I'm just looking to reduce/suppress the noise that come from a bathroom that's right next a dining room table in an apartment. That way people on the outside don't need or hear someone's business on the inside.
Should help with this.
This would definitely work but what if I can’t drill into my door or frame?
This seal is self adhesive amzn.to/3glTwt7
Does foam work better for noise reduction rather than using rubber for the last part of the video?
Foam works better, the rubber is a bit more forgiving for smaller cracks. Make sure to check what the compression of the material on the package label, if you buy the wrong size it will be difficult to close the door.
Could I pay u to do it for me lol
I thought the same thing hah ^^
You can contact us through www.hush.info and we will see what we can do
Can you still use door sweeps if you have carpet? My bedroom door has a gap on the bottom.
You can, there are also door bottom extenders that have similar results. Just make sure it’s not too tight on the floor.
Would it be better to use MLV in place of… basically everything in the video; frost king, door sweeps, weather stripping?
MLV does not have the same give as neoprene or foam weather stripping. Also, it will be difficult to keep the MLV attached to the door if you use it as a door sweep. It will tear over time. If you put a strip behind a floor sweep it will help, but it’s not a solution. I think that’s what everyone needs to understand about this video, it’s what I like to call a “bandaid”. It’s not a solution. The more we layer the bandaid the better protection we get. There is a point at which we need to consider, is it worth the trouble to do all this work when we can purchase a soundproof door or at least a solid core door with a real $500 door seal.
Great tips, thanks. Might be a nice addition to play a constant sound and use a decibel meter on the other side in a before and after shot.
Any tips on what kind of door to buy? We have these hollow-cardboard-filled things and I fear they might let more sound through than the cracks themselves :D
Any solid wood door will do. Try this first, it’s cheaper. The cracks around the perimeter of the door are the main problem. I will make a new video for people who are willing to put more time, money and energy into door soundproofing, complete with decibel reading!
@@HushSoundproofing thanks you for your response. Would hard wood vs pine matter? Money isn't s big factor, I found both second hand, but pine is a lot lighter to work with.
@@Qternocq obviously a heavier, denser wood will perform better. But like I said, if you don’t seal the cracks around the perimeter, it won’t make a difference.
@@HushSoundproofing alright! Thanks man. Appreciate it.
Hottest soundproofer on YT 😍
Can you do this on interior French doors?
You could definitely try some weather stripping to see how that works for you. I would say yes.
(Question answered below) Main issue I see is that it won't work for people who don't have a return in there room. For me it would block the air leaving under the door heading to the single home return on the heating / ac.
We’ve already discussed this, if you use two sweeps, you create an opening at the opposite ends. Creates an indirect path for sound and allows for airflow.
@@HushSoundproofing Thank you for taking the time to reply with an answer on the issue. I'll save this video as one of my home improvement ideas. I came across this video by doing searches (first time seeing one of your videos) and wasn't aware you've already discussed it.
This was done for functionality only. There are ways to do exactly the same thing without making an internal door look so industrial.
Absolutely
So how would you do that? I did this method and it’s great for soundproofing but I hate the ugly screws.
How would you do things with a larger, heavier industrial type of door? I have a neighbor that slams their door in our apartment complex and I don't think any amount of felt padding will help lol.
I’m sorry to hear that, no self closing mechanism? They are required in New York now. I think any attempt to pad the door will help. The solution may be replacing the door though.
@@HushSoundproofing there is a industrial grade damper on every door in the building, though it's obvious the management doesn't care to maintain some of them. The lobby door for our entire floor for example slams like a nuclear bomb all day long even though it has one, but the one on the floor the management lives on somehow closes perfectly nice and clean lol. I had them check my neighbors damper, and I did notice they went and checked it, but either they just didn't fix it or the neighbor is pulling it to a slam regardless.
@@jamesalphonse1099 you know, there are people out there that are just uncontrollably ignorant to others around them. More than that, they stomp when they walk, and slam every door and talk as though everyone is deaf. These folks keep us in business. You got to talk to the guy and see if he will allow you to spend some money on his door to get yourself some peace. We often times become mediators in scenarios like this one. It’s not easy. Best of luck.
@@HushSoundproofing unfortunately I'm about 99% sure he is doing this on purpose. This is a refurbished factory with concrete floors and cielings and really well insulated walls, you essentially have to be screaming to be heard through the walls. Since this guy moved in he was obnoxiously loud, first with music from the early afternoon to the late night/early morning every day, then later on with constant non stop barking for something like 12 hours every day. I complained about the music stuff to the management a couple times, and left a couple notes under his door asking him to train his dog for separation anxiety so it would stop barking, I think between those two things he hated/hates me and decided he would start slamming his door because noise ordinance laws have nothing about that and the land lord won't make him stop it. He also started screaming like a banshee for hours 2 or 3 nights a week either at his dog or at whatever sportsball game happened to be on. By the time the door slamming thing came around I lost my cool and did what I shouldn't have done; confronted him again but this time angrily saying he was causing me panic attacks and anxiety. He immediately put on unmistakable smug face and said, "I'm just letting the door shut under it's own weight!" And I called him a jackass because his door hadn't been slamming all along. The truth is, he is just a prick and has no ability to have consideration for his neighbors.
@@jamesalphonse1099 mmm sorry about that. Sounds about right. I’m guessing you may be experiencing a structural vibration issue coupled with the higher frequency airborne noise. The combination can really get your blood going.
Noise ordinances are all grey with a tiny black and white line on the borders. Continue applying pressure. Something will give. I would take as many steps as possible on my own door and walls. Problem is noise like that can be coming from everywhere, hvac, electrical plumbing… you name it. I hate to say this but if it doesn’t stop soon, for your own health, I would consider moving. In extreme cases it might be best to remove yourself from the situation. I hope this works itself out. Best of luck.
How well would this work for a louvered double door?
I feel like you might be joking with me here on this one. Just in case you are not, I feel the need to tell you that a Louvered door is not going to benefit from any sort of door seal. You must first replace the doors.
@@HushSoundproofing I’m not joking lol my idea was to seal up the louvered parts as best as possible with some dynamat or something similar then go about following these steps. I don’t have the money to replace the doors as it’s a double door setup that would be costly to replace.
Dynamat is fancy if you’re on a budget for soundproofing. You may want to consider the hinges on your doors with the added weight. I would use a couple layers of flashing tape amzn.to/3iXvVQP and cap it with 3/8 in ply. But either way you are entering into new door pricing. You could reframe the door for $50 single wooden door at Lowe’s that would be better than the louvered doors. Wood prices are back down... Best of luck to you.
Well that would definitely make it air tight, but I have a hollow door.
I think what everyone needs to understand is that, over 50% of the sound on the other side of that door can be coming from the cracks around the perimeter. If that’s not enough of a reduction, get a new door. I will say, the new door will not be better if you don’t install a gasket or weather stripping around the door. Best of luck!
Came here so that it wouldn't be loud during sex 😌 nah, fr tho I was needing something like this for gaming because I get loud as fuck when I'm playing pretty much any type of game so thank you
How would soundproof a door to reduce the sound of snoring coming out of the room ?
This will help with snoring, it won’t help for bass music but if you’re looking for a bit more privacy, this is it
I’ve tried 3 different weatherstripping and the thing is even too thick for my door to be able to close 😫 and I can hear every single thing from the hallway outside my apartment as well as the across the hall neighbors door open😫😫. My maintenance man isn’t sure what I could do for sound proofing 😭😭😩 when I’m in the hall, I can hear into their apt also. Ugh. Help me
I’m sorry to hear this, does the HOA allow for different types of doors to be installed?
Try talking to them, make more noise than them, or don't live in an apartment.
@@MattCavazos great advice! 👍
What’s size skrews did you use?
The screws come with the kit!
Would this work on carpet?
Yes it would, I would let the floor sweep drag lightly on the floor so its easy to open and close the door.
I wonder if the air can come in the room? Please give me your answer
Yes, air can come in the room. I know people are afraid they may cut off some sort of air flow but it’s just not the case and you can easily Google this if you don’t believe me
What sort of paneling do would you recommend to put on the face of the door in addition to this?
I suggest replacing the door with a solid core door before adding paneling. Very tedious job to apply paneling.
Please don't take this the wrong way but can you please slow the moment of the camera apart from that thank you for the information
We will consider this for our next video!
Will this work for a video game room?
You will get a decent 5 decibel reduction on higher frequencies, won’t work for a gaming system with a sub at high volume