I hired Ned and his team at Hush Soundproofing to soundproof the party wall / shared wall between my apartment and my (extremely loud) neighbor. I am so happy I did finally did this. I highly recommend them.
Fantastic video! So much useful information. In our rental situations we've had to retro soundproof ceilings and walls in older 1950s wood-framed 2 level structure with a basement. The basement was converted into a separate rental suite. Hardwood floors on the main level, with oil-furnace heat ducting, so imagine how noisy it was. We replaced heating with electrical baseboards, removed all ducting, sealed up all holes, vents, caulked and filled all gaps in the floor joists underneath from the basement side. We added one layer of mass by screwing 2 pieces of cutup 5/8 sheetrock ( giving you 1 1/4 inch thickness ) pieces directly onto the subfloor, underneath from the basement side. That is pieces cut into 15" +/- widths x whatever lengths, and installed up onto the subfloor in between the floor joists. Caulked all drywall gaps of the pieces where they meet the joists. Filled floor joist cavities with Safe-n-Sound insulation, then added 4x8 SonoPan soundproofing panels as 1st layer of entire basement ceiling, added resilient channel decoupled from joists with rubber mounting system, added one layer of 5/8 sheetrock, green glue, then staggered 2nd layer of 5/8 sheet rock. Made sure sheet rock installed with adequate screws, just long enough to grab resilient channel and not any joists, to avoid 'shortcircuiting' and reestablishing sound path. Also ceiling sheetrock installed with about 1/8 to 1/4 inch gap away from walls, and caulked with greenglue. So final entire 2 layered sheetrock ceiling is 'floating' on resilient channel and decoupled from floor joists and adjacent walls. We thought about also using MassLoadedVinyl but too costly on our budget, so we compromised by using the SonoPan acoustical panels instead. But I trust your experience when you say MLV is 10X better than greenglue system, and will consider it for the next project. On the main level, we decided to forfeit the beauty of hardwood floors, and installed rubber-backed vinyl plank flooring over the hardwood. Makes a big difference, those hardwood floors are like a drum skin. Overall the final soundproofing is fairly good, with reductions of 60 to 80 dBs plus. Unwanted noise is the number one complaint of tenant situations, and over time we have had to learn how to mitigate this issue, because happy tenants stay longer, and are willing to pay more for a more comfortable space. How we did the walls in next comment.😁
Im looking at this video and I notice that the part which shows the MLV on the ceiling seems to show the MLV cut into squares before being either glued or nailed onto the first layer of sheetrock. Is this correct? Im interested in using this technique.
Yes, MLV is very difficult to handle, we find that cutting it into smaller section makes it easier to manage. Over lapping and or taping the seams with vinyl tape works well.
Thanks for the very informative video. Is adding a second ceiling without tearing open the existing ceiling an option? I have high ceilings and am planning an creating a new second ceiling using the wall joists for the framing of the second ceiling. In effect the two ceilings will have about an inch of air space, following by insulation and dry rock thereby in effect "decoupling" the two ceilings. Any thoughts?
I don’t see anything wrong with this technique, you will have 2 different modes peaking out in the 2 ceiling cavities. That shouldn’t affect the reduction too much. I normally try to stay away from dropping a new ceiling under an existing ceiling unless the original is a thick plaster from a 100 yr old building. I think key would be to have 3 layers of 5/8 Sheetrock minimum.
Hi. I´m thinking about soundproofing my ceiling. It will consist of wooden beams 38 * 100 mm, decoupled with an industrial rubberproduct. I will also decouple the beams with rubber gaskets for the screws. In between the beams I´ll install medium density 40mm polytex sheets and finish with 15 mm of fiber sheetrock and elastick sealant round the edges.. Will this give a good result? Thank you, Jakob
The principals for your installation sound consistent with what we do. I don’t know if it’s enough because I’m not familiar with the materials or metric system
a lot of this stuff is an 'art' to get right, is my understanding. I would suggest that you build with the understanding that you may have to 'go back in' and do some more. my friend's suggestion to me was when I am finished similar work in my own home, and moved in to my own quietened space is to add carpet and under lay on the floor above if necessary.
Sir, you have the best explanation I have ever scene or heard and I have researched this for 10 years and watched literally 1000's of videos. I think you are very correct about the mass loaded vinyl product, but since your from NYC, if I heard correctly, about your description, wouldn't, the lathe, and plaster, be better with these components, added within them at various stages? And what about that newer product Sonopan is this a good addition. I started my quest looking for the best options b/c here in NEPA we have rowhomes and you can hear everything and I mean everything your neighbors are doing. I'm trying to curb that.
I believe lathe and plaster serve a purpose if they are already incorporated into the existing structure of an older build. Sometimes we see plaster that is 3-4” thick that noise is still transferring through. In combination with other materials plaster is a good sound reducer. It’s definitely not the single answer to your noise issues. Many materials with different densities, that’s the key to getting a great reduction. Sonopan does not look like a product we would consider using in our treatments. That doesn’t mean it’s not going to help, I just don’t see the value in the material if I have to choose between MLV and Sonopan. The difference would night and day. I hope this help, best of luck with the soundproofing projects.
Great info thanks I'm in an apartment and I wanted to like create a little area for my dogs during the day when I'm out so that the boxing doesn't disturb the neighbors I'm trying to like build a little air in myself but I thought you might have some chips for me thanks a lot
Use Mass loaded vinyl, remember sound travels directionally and weakens with distance, diverting air flow can help stop a lot of sound. That doesn’t mean stop air flow! Best of luck with this project!
This is very informative... trying to isolate outside noise coming into a recording office. Currently we have acoustic ceilings, regular metal door but on the ceiling there are several lights, a/c vents and a camera mount. Also there is the second room where the engineer sits. Any tips on how to keep all outside noise coming in to prevent background noise in our recordings?
You quoted a 70% reduction in sound transfer. If all I did was blow in cellulose into an existing ceiling that has no insulation, what ballpark percentage reduction can I hope for?
If cellulose worked we would use it, would make our job a lot easier. It gets hung up on plumbing and electrical. Good for heating and cooling, attics. Sorry to bum out the cellulose guys. It just doesn’t work for soundproofing.
I am an amateur in these matters but I do understand that insulation is two different things in two different 'worlds'. 1/ Temperature insulation is light and fluffy like a light weight eiderdown. 2/ Sound insulation is air tight and heavy mass. And complex at times to solve. And a financial /results balancing act. Neither can do the other job. A 3rd 'thing' is financial insulation by not building badly in the first place.
I went through a lot of work to improve my garage soundproofing. I’ve found the garage door weatherstrip around the sides and top is now the main offender, by far. It’s essentially just some PVC flap. Any ideas for improving this area on a still-functional garage door?
@@HushSoundproofing I did the top and side weatherstrips with the standard home center nail-on exterior flange seals, and found the results largely underwhelming. I haven’t done the bottom gasket, but couldn’t hurt. There’s no air gap or visible leakage from the bottom, so I don’t think it would improve much. Machinery noise in a brick veneer single car garage. Table saw/dust collector/jointer etc. I stripped the entire garage back to studs, sealed every crack and gap around the exposed exterior sheathing in the stud bays, filled them with rockwool, then added 5/8 full weight fire code drywall overtop. gluing around each stud bay to prevent further leakage. Ceiling has 24” of cellulose insulation sitting above it. Really the only remaining issue is the garage door- and I wish now I would have put more attention to it earlier on. Standing 40’ from the door at the end of my driveway, I’m still reading 55db on a dead silent 2am night.
@@danervin2530 I hate to tell you this but that garage door needs to go, you need to build a double studded wall with 2 doors that have a small corridor between them. You could also build or purchase a few gobos, often used in studios to separate instruments during live recordings. This should cut a couple db off the top end, human perception of sound relates 60db to being twice as loud as 50db. So 2-3 db reduction can be life changing. Also 55db is not loud, sound weakens over distance, it’s very possible you aren’t bothering people as much as you think.
@@HushSoundproofing I appreciate the feedback! I had a feeling that’s what it would come down to 😭. I knew the principal of a gobo, but didn’t know the term, so you just opened up a whole new stream of ideas and searches. Thank you!
Is all this work worth it for a condo? Yes, its worth it, we have helped many New Yorkers achieve peace and quiet with this treatment. Don't count on a couple tubes of green glue to do the job!
My husband and I would love you… and your men… to caulk our pipes. Bang frequency isn’t a problem for us, but we enjoy hearing your thoughts on the topic.
@@HushSoundproofing Sir, that is a respectable quote... and impressively scalable to meet the need at hand. This is our first time and, I must admit, the size is bigger than we ever imagined, so we'll have to work hard to fit this all into our humble... budget. Thank you for being a straight shooter. [and a great sport]
Im not sure these days, we were out there before the pandemic. There was a company called "LA Soundproofing" that was operating out of San Francisco. They have all the materials. The might know some contractors who can help.
Well green glue is more for airborne sound, but for a ceiling that's impact sound so yeah MLV is better, green glue is fine for walls, but could use MLV there too
@@_baller I don’t believe it decouples anything, maybe on a micro level. The science behind Viscoelastic compounds are that they convert sound waves into heat energy, this is why I find myself battling people on green glue constantly. Yes this has been proven, however there isn’t enough data and the studies are embellished, the frequency curve that the material is not able to absorb is very high. Sound still transfers, green glue is our last resort and only used in combination with other decoupling and sound blocking materials. The material is not efficient enough for the price per sf.
@@HushSoundproofing it's better to use green glue than not green glue, it works mainly for airborne sound not impact sound, so MLV works best in the floor/ceiling, the way the glue works is to create an air gap (decoupling) and absorb some sound, and anything absorbing sound generates heat, think of it like rubber cement, it's not actually a "glue"
@@_baller I understand what you’re trying to say, it’s just not how it works. We use these products on a daily basis. But thanks for the debate, this conversation might be helpful so that people can do their own research before purchasing products. This video was created to help inform people on how to soundproof a ceiling, I’ve already stated my position on Green Glue. We are currently removing a Green Glue installation a contractor did incorrectly in Staten Island. We have clients who are mentally ill, they need the job done the right way, the first time. So let’s not cloud this space with fluffed products that don’t work. If it worked, we would use it. Same thing with blow-in insulation, why don’t we use it?? Cuz it doesn’t work. That’s why.
I like EZ SNAP 5/8”, it’s a little more labor intensive to cut, the gypsum is more dense, and it won’t snap right unless you cut through the Viscoelastic polymer in the middle of the board. 1/2 inch Quietrock is no bueno unless you use 3 sheets or more. Doesn’t make sense for price + additional labor. Best of luck with your project!
Thank you for your quick reply! I appreciate it. Our contractor already got the 1/2 inch QuietRock 510, so will see how that goes! Do you have recommendations for sagging that might happen over time with the QuietRock in the ceiling? Thank you!
Trust your contractor, sounds like they took the time to do some research and apply the appropriate noise reduction techniques to your particular sound proofing issue. Best of luck with the job.
If I handed you a 4 x 8’ cut of MLV and let you hold it in your right arm and 2 tubes of green glue in your left arm, you wouldn’t think twice about which one would physically stop more sound. We don’t use it anymore. It’s too magical for us.
We have not worked on billionaires row, we have worked on similar building with new construction in the city, it’s possible they took extra measures to accommodate buyers best interest by soundproofing. The floor and ceiling construction would be concrete, very uncommon to have soundproofing issues with larger buildings between floors. Walls between neighboring condos would be the only issue I could see being a problem. HVAC ducts can also cause issues, elevator shafts, boiler rooms… New developers rarely incorporate a heavy soundproofing treatment in their building plans from our experience.
@@HushSoundproofing thank you for your response. It would be interesting to be a 'fly on the wall' so to speak. Sound issues after wealthy people have moved in would be extremely interesting problem from the outside point of view. And the solutions could be very complicated/ legal process. Have you heard of any of these? There is an area near me that many home contractors will never quote on, too many lawyers.
@@stephenbrickwood1602 People with money aren’t stupid, they need to protect their investments. More money, more signatures. Soundproofing is also a luxury, if a contractor isn’t ready to go into a multimillion dollar home or business, they’re in the wrong business.
@@HushSoundproofing your right, the very wealthy do pay their bills. And the contractor I spoke about was not in the business of having a legal department to fight the group of people I meant. I guess I was referring to a group of legal people who want to be rich and are aggressive for minimum price and minimum payment and no understanding of value. Thank you for your response.
This was really well explained, thanks.
I hired Ned and his team at Hush Soundproofing to soundproof the party wall / shared wall between my apartment and my (extremely loud) neighbor. I am so happy I did finally did this. I highly recommend them.
Wow so handsome with your hair cut. Thanks for the thorough detail. The mental and physical health link to sound was the icing on the cake.
Very kind! Thank you. Feel free to email us with questions.
Fantastic video! So much useful information. In our rental situations we've had to retro soundproof ceilings and walls in older 1950s wood-framed 2 level structure with a basement. The basement was converted into a separate rental suite. Hardwood floors on the main level, with oil-furnace heat ducting, so imagine how noisy it was. We replaced heating with electrical baseboards, removed all ducting, sealed up all holes, vents, caulked and filled all gaps in the floor joists underneath from the basement side.
We added one layer of mass by screwing 2 pieces of cutup 5/8 sheetrock ( giving you 1 1/4 inch thickness ) pieces directly onto the subfloor, underneath from the basement side. That is pieces cut into 15" +/- widths x whatever lengths, and installed up onto the subfloor in between the floor joists. Caulked all drywall gaps of the pieces where they meet the joists. Filled floor joist cavities with Safe-n-Sound insulation, then added 4x8 SonoPan soundproofing panels as 1st layer of entire basement ceiling, added resilient channel decoupled from joists with rubber mounting system, added one layer of 5/8 sheetrock, green glue, then staggered 2nd layer of 5/8 sheet rock. Made sure sheet rock installed with adequate screws, just long enough to grab resilient channel and not any joists, to avoid 'shortcircuiting' and reestablishing sound path. Also ceiling sheetrock installed with about 1/8 to 1/4 inch gap away from walls, and caulked with greenglue. So final entire 2 layered sheetrock ceiling is 'floating' on resilient channel and decoupled from floor joists and adjacent walls.
We thought about also using MassLoadedVinyl but too costly on our budget, so we compromised by using the SonoPan acoustical panels instead. But I trust your experience when you say MLV is 10X better than greenglue system, and will consider it for the next project.
On the main level, we decided to forfeit the beauty of hardwood floors, and installed rubber-backed vinyl plank flooring over the hardwood. Makes a big difference, those hardwood floors are like a drum skin. Overall the final soundproofing is fairly good, with reductions of 60 to 80 dBs plus. Unwanted noise is the number one complaint of tenant situations, and over time we have had to learn how to mitigate this issue, because happy tenants stay longer, and are willing to pay more for a more comfortable space. How we did the walls in next comment.😁
Can you make a video, how to install mass load vinyl on ceiling
Excellently informative, hope you guys continue to do videos on the topic of soundproofing!
Im looking at this video and I notice that the part which shows the MLV on the ceiling seems to show the MLV cut into squares before being either glued or nailed onto the first layer of sheetrock. Is this correct? Im interested in using this technique.
Yes, MLV is very difficult to handle, we find that cutting it into smaller section makes it easier to manage. Over lapping and or taping the seams with vinyl tape works well.
Thank you guys, best videos. Really appreciate this.
What kind of MLV do you add to the joist space, and how do you attach it?
1lb MLV, staples
Great explanations also clear
Thank you!! Best of luck with your project!
Thanks for the very informative video. Is adding a second ceiling without tearing open the existing ceiling an option? I have high ceilings and am planning an creating a new second ceiling using the wall joists for the framing of the second ceiling. In effect the two ceilings will have about an inch of air space, following by insulation and dry rock thereby in effect "decoupling" the two ceilings. Any thoughts?
I don’t see anything wrong with this technique, you will have 2 different modes peaking out in the 2 ceiling cavities. That shouldn’t affect the reduction too much. I normally try to stay away from dropping a new ceiling under an existing ceiling unless the original is a thick plaster from a 100 yr old building. I think key would be to have 3 layers of 5/8 Sheetrock minimum.
Hi. I´m thinking about soundproofing my ceiling. It will consist of wooden beams 38 * 100 mm, decoupled with an industrial rubberproduct. I will also decouple the beams with rubber gaskets for the screws. In between the beams I´ll install medium density 40mm polytex sheets and finish with 15 mm of fiber sheetrock and elastick sealant round the edges.. Will this give a good result? Thank you, Jakob
The principals for your installation sound consistent with what we do. I don’t know if it’s enough because I’m not familiar with the materials or metric system
a lot of this stuff is an 'art' to get right, is my understanding.
I would suggest that you build with the understanding that you may have to 'go back in' and do some more.
my friend's suggestion to me was when I am finished similar work in my own home, and moved in to my own quietened space is to add carpet and under lay on the floor above if necessary.
thanks how can i do a consulation??
Send an email to info@hush.info please
Sir, you have the best explanation I have ever scene or heard and I have researched this for 10 years and watched literally 1000's of videos. I think you are very correct about the mass loaded vinyl product, but since your from NYC, if I heard correctly, about your description, wouldn't, the lathe, and plaster, be better with these components, added within them at various stages? And what about that newer product Sonopan is this a good addition. I started my quest looking for the best options b/c here in NEPA we have rowhomes and you can hear everything and I mean everything your neighbors are doing. I'm trying to curb that.
I believe lathe and plaster serve a purpose if they are already incorporated into the existing structure of an older build. Sometimes we see plaster that is 3-4” thick that noise is still transferring through. In combination with other materials plaster is a good sound reducer. It’s definitely not the single answer to your noise issues. Many materials with different densities, that’s the key to getting a great reduction. Sonopan does not look like a product we would consider using in our treatments. That doesn’t mean it’s not going to help, I just don’t see the value in the material if I have to choose between MLV and Sonopan. The difference would night and day. I hope this help, best of luck with the soundproofing projects.
Great info thanks
I'm in an apartment and I wanted to like create a little area for my dogs during the day when I'm out so that the boxing doesn't disturb the neighbors I'm trying to like build a little air in myself but I thought you might have some chips for me thanks a lot
Use Mass loaded vinyl, remember sound travels directionally and weakens with distance, diverting air flow can help stop a lot of sound. That doesn’t mean stop air flow! Best of luck with this project!
This is very informative... trying to isolate outside noise coming into a recording office. Currently we have acoustic ceilings, regular metal door but on the ceiling there are several lights, a/c vents and a camera mount. Also there is the second room where the engineer sits. Any tips on how to keep all outside noise coming in to prevent background noise in our recordings?
A second door would help. What is this a podcast room? Radio show? Soundproof door with an auto closing door seal would be the best.
You quoted a 70% reduction in sound transfer. If all I did was blow in cellulose into an existing ceiling that has no insulation, what ballpark percentage reduction can I hope for?
If cellulose worked we would use it, would make our job a lot easier. It gets hung up on plumbing and electrical. Good for heating and cooling, attics. Sorry to bum out the cellulose guys. It just doesn’t work for soundproofing.
I am an amateur in these matters but I do understand that insulation is two different things in two different 'worlds'.
1/ Temperature insulation is light and fluffy like a light weight eiderdown.
2/ Sound insulation is air tight and heavy mass. And complex at times to solve. And a financial /results balancing act.
Neither can do the other job.
A 3rd 'thing' is financial insulation by not building badly in the first place.
I went through a lot of work to improve my garage soundproofing. I’ve found the garage door weatherstrip around the sides and top is now the main offender, by far. It’s essentially just some PVC flap. Any ideas for improving this area on a still-functional garage door?
So you tried replacing the gaskets? amzn.to/32Zzu4s , are you trying to contain noise or isolate the garage from outside noise? What type of noise?
@@HushSoundproofing I did the top and side weatherstrips with the standard home center nail-on exterior flange seals, and found the results largely underwhelming. I haven’t done the bottom gasket, but couldn’t hurt. There’s no air gap or visible leakage from the bottom, so I don’t think it would improve much. Machinery noise in a brick veneer single car garage. Table saw/dust collector/jointer etc. I stripped the entire garage back to studs, sealed every crack and gap around the exposed exterior sheathing in the stud bays, filled them with rockwool, then added 5/8 full weight fire code drywall overtop. gluing around each stud bay to prevent further leakage. Ceiling has 24” of cellulose insulation sitting above it. Really the only remaining issue is the garage door- and I wish now I would have put more attention to it earlier on. Standing 40’ from the door at the end of my driveway, I’m still reading 55db on a dead silent 2am night.
@@danervin2530 I hate to tell you this but that garage door needs to go, you need to build a double studded wall with 2 doors that have a small corridor between them. You could also build or purchase a few gobos, often used in studios to separate instruments during live recordings. This should cut a couple db off the top end, human perception of sound relates 60db to being twice as loud as 50db. So 2-3 db reduction can be life changing. Also 55db is not loud, sound weakens over distance, it’s very possible you aren’t bothering people as much as you think.
@@HushSoundproofing I appreciate the feedback! I had a feeling that’s what it would come down to 😭. I knew the principal of a gobo, but didn’t know the term, so you just opened up a whole new stream of ideas and searches. Thank you!
Is all this work worth it for a condo? How much you think that would be
Is all this work worth it for a condo? Yes, its worth it, we have helped many New Yorkers achieve peace and quiet with this treatment. Don't count on a couple tubes of green glue to do the job!
@@HushSoundproofing what's the price tag
@@_baller send us an email info@hush.info or give us a call 917-789-8877, unfortunately we don’t put price tags on UA-cam videos at this time.
My husband and I would love you… and your men… to caulk our pipes. Bang frequency isn’t a problem for us, but we enjoy hearing your thoughts on the topic.
For this type of assistance my consultation fee is a flat $5000, $1500 for each additional hour of service.
@@HushSoundproofing Sir, that is a respectable quote... and impressively scalable to meet the need at hand. This is our first time and, I must admit, the size is bigger than we ever imagined, so we'll have to work hard to fit this all into our humble... budget. Thank you for being a straight shooter. [and a great sport]
any good soundproofing companies/vendors in los angeles area?
Im not sure these days, we were out there before the pandemic. There was a company called "LA Soundproofing" that was operating out of San Francisco. They have all the materials. The might know some contractors who can help.
Thank you !!!!!!!!!!
Well green glue is more for airborne sound, but for a ceiling that's impact sound so yeah MLV is better, green glue is fine for walls, but could use MLV there too
Green Glue is magic, MLV is physics! Lol the end
@@HushSoundproofing yeah green glue is basically creating a gap between the sheet rock while still gluing it together, similar idea to decoupling
@@_baller I don’t believe it decouples anything, maybe on a micro level. The science behind Viscoelastic compounds are that they convert sound waves into heat energy, this is why I find myself battling people on green glue constantly. Yes this has been proven, however there isn’t enough data and the studies are embellished, the frequency curve that the material is not able to absorb is very high. Sound still transfers, green glue is our last resort and only used in combination with other decoupling and sound blocking materials. The material is not efficient enough for the price per sf.
@@HushSoundproofing it's better to use green glue than not green glue, it works mainly for airborne sound not impact sound, so MLV works best in the floor/ceiling, the way the glue works is to create an air gap (decoupling) and absorb some sound, and anything absorbing sound generates heat, think of it like rubber cement, it's not actually a "glue"
@@_baller I understand what you’re trying to say, it’s just not how it works. We use these products on a daily basis. But thanks for the debate, this conversation might be helpful so that people can do their own research before purchasing products.
This video was created to help inform people on how to soundproof a ceiling, I’ve already stated my position on Green Glue. We are currently removing a Green Glue installation a contractor did incorrectly in Staten Island. We have clients who are mentally ill, they need the job done the right way, the first time. So let’s not cloud this space with fluffed products that don’t work. If it worked, we would use it. Same thing with blow-in insulation, why don’t we use it?? Cuz it doesn’t work. That’s why.
What kind of Quietrock do you use on ceilings?
I like EZ SNAP 5/8”, it’s a little more labor intensive to cut, the gypsum is more dense, and it won’t snap right unless you cut through the Viscoelastic polymer in the middle of the board. 1/2 inch Quietrock is no bueno unless you use 3 sheets or more. Doesn’t make sense for price + additional labor. Best of luck with your project!
Thank you for your quick reply! I appreciate it. Our contractor already got the 1/2 inch QuietRock 510, so will see how that goes! Do you have recommendations for sagging that might happen over time with the QuietRock in the ceiling? Thank you!
If it’s screwed in correctly there should be no sagging, especially if they used green glue. Those boards aren’t going anywhere.
Thank you for your input. They used a 1/2 insulation material, not green glue, probably for fire code. But hopefully that works for the sagging.
Trust your contractor, sounds like they took the time to do some research and apply the appropriate noise reduction techniques to your particular sound proofing issue. Best of luck with the job.
Mass load vinyl is 10x better than green glue. That’s HUGE. Can you give me some details to drive this home?
If I handed you a 4 x 8’ cut of MLV and let you hold it in your right arm and 2 tubes of green glue in your left arm, you wouldn’t think twice about which one would physically stop more sound. We don’t use it anymore. It’s too magical for us.
Do you work on billionaire's row? Or do they build soundproofing into the build process?
We have not worked on billionaires row, we have worked on similar building with new construction in the city, it’s possible they took extra measures to accommodate buyers best interest by soundproofing. The floor and ceiling construction would be concrete, very uncommon to have soundproofing issues with larger buildings between floors. Walls between neighboring condos would be the only issue I could see being a problem. HVAC ducts can also cause issues, elevator shafts, boiler rooms… New developers rarely incorporate a heavy soundproofing treatment in their building plans from our experience.
@@HushSoundproofing thank you for your response.
It would be interesting to be a 'fly on the wall' so to speak.
Sound issues after wealthy people have moved in would be extremely interesting problem from the outside point of view.
And the solutions could be very complicated/ legal process.
Have you heard of any of these?
There is an area near me that many home contractors will never quote on, too many lawyers.
@@stephenbrickwood1602 People with money aren’t stupid, they need to protect their investments. More money, more signatures. Soundproofing is also a luxury, if a contractor isn’t ready to go into a multimillion dollar home or business, they’re in the wrong business.
@@HushSoundproofing your right, the very wealthy do pay their bills.
And the contractor I spoke about was not in the business of having a legal department to fight the group of people I meant.
I guess I was referring to a group of legal people who want to be rich and are aggressive for minimum price and minimum payment and no understanding of value.
Thank you for your response.
@@stephenbrickwood1602 it happens, best of luck with the projects!
Ohhhh if I owned my apartment 😆
If you are talking about soundproofing, there should not be annoying music in the background.
I love the criticism, tell us more about what we did wrong here. We will do better for you next time.
You're overdoing it.