Hi Tim I remember back in the 90s when changing up to a 1098 I was advised to change the gear box also.I didn't question this at the time as I had a doner car, I also changed the diff which was a different ratio.I think I was told that the 1098 box was more robust. One small tip when you have the box on the bench it is worth checking the speedo drive. You really are going the whole hog on this restoration. Thanks for the great content.
David - I have also heard the newer rib-cased gearbox is stronger, unfortunately I cannot recall why it is stronger. Tim - the thrust bearing looked worn… Also, it is worth replacing the clutch actuating components, new parts will take slack out of the clutch pedal movement and makes the world of difference… ESM stock a kit. Also, check the clutch pedal shaft, after 50+ years yours may look like a cam shaft. Apologies if I’m telly granny how to suck eggs.
Thanks David - I will check the speedo drive this week. I guess just see if it turns OK when the main shaft is turned? My next job is to see if the smoothcase can be fitted to the 1098 engine. Most people say that's a no no, but...
@@eggybreadplease Nope, any thoughts are welcome, thank you. I'll change the thrust bearing. As noted, I'm thinking of using this with my 1098 engine,. My logic, assuming Ken and I can get it to fit, is that my Minor will be used gently... I've got new clutch mechanism parts and I think I bought a new bearing for the pedal, but I need to check. More to come!
These early boxes had constant load syncronisers and the small springs supplying this load usually break after many years in use, the synchro then stops working. Also the lay shaft and bearing are very weak and often need replacement . You should dismantle the box and deal with these things the gears are stronger and don’t break usually but change the front bearing as a matter of course. The later rib cage boxes had baulk ring synchros , much better.
Hi Tim I remember back in the 90s when changing up to a 1098 I was advised to change the gear box also.I didn't question this at the time as I had a doner car, I also changed the diff which was a different ratio.I think I was told that the 1098 box was more robust.
One small tip when you have the box on the bench it is worth checking the speedo drive.
You really are going the whole hog on this restoration.
Thanks for the great content.
David - I have also heard the newer rib-cased gearbox is stronger, unfortunately I cannot recall why it is stronger.
Tim - the thrust bearing looked worn… Also, it is worth replacing the clutch actuating components, new parts will take slack out of the clutch pedal movement and makes the world of difference… ESM stock a kit.
Also, check the clutch pedal shaft, after 50+ years yours may look like a cam shaft.
Apologies if I’m telly granny how to suck eggs.
Thanks David - I will check the speedo drive this week. I guess just see if it turns OK when the main shaft is turned? My next job is to see if the smoothcase can be fitted to the 1098 engine. Most people say that's a no no, but...
@@eggybreadplease Nope, any thoughts are welcome, thank you. I'll change the thrust bearing. As noted, I'm thinking of using this with my 1098 engine,. My logic, assuming Ken and I can get it to fit, is that my Minor will be used gently... I've got new clutch mechanism parts and I think I bought a new bearing for the pedal, but I need to check. More to come!
These early boxes had constant load syncronisers and the small springs supplying this load usually break after many years in use, the synchro then stops working. Also the lay shaft and bearing are very weak and often need replacement . You should dismantle the box and deal with these things the gears are stronger and don’t break usually but change the front bearing as a matter of course.
The later rib cage boxes had baulk ring synchros , much better.
Thanks for the comments. I've actually chosen a different path now and obtained a ribcase box.
With the inspection plate off you can check the synchro's with a feeler gauge.
Thanks for the tip Mike.