Dude what you did for me man means so much. When you said don't leave the emergency brake on and immediately disconnected it and rotor just fell off. Man it meant so much to me. That was cool man. It just fell right off.
I've done several brake jobs on my various cars over the last ~40 years, and the bolt-in-the-threaded hole(s) trick was a Godsend for me this week. The holes weren't threaded on the last couple cars I'd done. I eyeballed the holes on my son's 2010 RAV4 and guessed they were M8. I had a short M8 on hand, and it did the job after my 8 lb. mini sledge didn't. My only comment about this technique is that I used a ratchet instead of a power tool to tighten down the "leverage bolt". I wouldn't want it to twist off in the threaded hole and result in another problem. (That, and I don't have the power tool! 🙂) It's a very satisfying "crack" when the rust and the caliper break loose. Thanks!
One thing I'll add is bolts with nut method from the inside of rotor through caliper mounting holes. It saved me once where hammer and hydraulic puller failed.
Thank you, I used a small flat, heavy, steel pry bar nail remover. And the clamp. Once it was tight, I smacked the rotor once with a hammer and it popped loose. Thank you again 😊
Thanks for these tips. I should have watched the video to the end on day 1 lol. There was lots of hammering before I came back and found the tip for the radiator bolt on day 2!
A stuck rotor is a PAIN. But I have had even WORSE luck! Before the rotor, couldn't get the effen _WHEEL_ off! And _another_ time, my mother bought 'the best' wheels... they each had FANCY bolt caps and THEY froze and seized! I crawled the van to a repair shop around the corner... even THEY, with usual air guns COULDN'T bug the dang things! They had to bring over their biggest pneumatic gripper (looked like a bazooka/rifle lol) to FINALLY crack them! (I replaced them ALL with regular 'junk' caps! lol) Thanks for your video!
The heavy hammer is the way to go in many cases of stuck drums, that weargroove i grind out (flat) bij using a angle grinder with a 80 grid paper disc, makes it easy to install back without the adjustinghassle. Also drilling a pair of holes and tapping them with a thread (i use 8mm) to enhance removing them the next time for service.
Thanks. Useful tips as I’m just about to do my discs on a 13yr old Mini Cooper. Luckily no studs so should be easier to hammer:). One question… do you change carrier mounting bolts and Caliper guide pin builds for new ones? My Mini Haynes manual (uk) states these bolts are one time use? All the years I’ve done pad changes on many cars I’ve never changed Caliper bolts!
Neither have I! Could that be a special mini thing? (If it were me I’d Reuse them). When slide pins become very worn it can lead to noisy rattling calipers. Grab your caliper once it’s installed and wiggle it. Is it noisy?
@@BudgetMechanicHawaii googling it does seem to indicate its widespread practise for many brands. My rough estimate on what Ive read is that abòut 90% seem to ignore the recommendation:) I've emailed Mini directly for reason but don't expect a reply.
I believe the caliper bolts are the same size and pitch as the threaded jack screw holes in the rotor. Just lube the holes before threading the bolts in.
I haven’t seen a video anywhere regarding the “break lever”. It’s the lever where the parking break cable connects at the drum. Its function is to spread the brake shoes with an articulated lever action. My problem was that this all metal (steel) part was non-functional due to being seized by rust. With much difficulty I was able to exercise and manipulate it enough to get it out. This would be a great video made by you. The parking brakes are non-functional in this condition. Hope you find this informational and motivational. 👍😊
Can i throw my wheel out of alignment by banging on it with a hammer? Because i banged the hell out mine yesterday. They came off but it took a pounding
Also, If no threaded hole, Autozone and O'Reilly have free tool loaner programs. Safety tip, put one or two lug nuts back on a few threads so the drum/rotor/puller does not hit your shins when it pops off.
I ran a #5 threaded bolt with a washer and a jam nut through the brake caliper mounting holes. I was very careful not to put too much force. Once force was applied, I used the small sledge. Then, I loosened and rotated the rotar slightly, repeating the process all the way around till she came loose. I've been doing my own brakes for almost 40 years, and I've never run across a rotor that was stuck this bad. 😢
Thanks for the reply. Will be careful don't need to spend more $$ on it. Might see if I can find a drift or something to save from swinging into the studs. Cheers From Australia mate😃👍
I had to put 99.5% glacial acetic acid, drop wise around the hub and lugs after I had soaked with pb blaster. Wanted to use hydro-chloric / muriatic acid but didn't have any on hand. Be careful when using any acid. Four hours after applying the acid with a dropper and playing jingle bells for 5 to 10 minutes with a large hammer i had success. I had also put a gear puller on it and that did not work. The previous installer did not align the threaded holes with spindle flange either. I am using anti seize this time.
Found this video looking to help me out. All good techniques. Unfortunately I already tried them. I spent 4 hours hammering on one rotor yesterday and 6 on the other before i finally unseized them. Im at the point where im investing in a hydraulic puller for the last 2
i tried changing my front rotors on my buddy's 2015 dodge Ram 1500 yesterday... got the calipers off and all cleaned up... had to kick the tire off it was so rusted on but we couldn't get the rotor off! it was welded with rust and all we had was a 28oz framing hammer! so we ended up just putting all back together and were planning to get it to a shop but after this I'm confident we can get it off... like most things in life...u just need a bigger HAMMAH!!! LMFAO😊😅😂
No chance I’m pulling a bolt from elsewhere. I’ll either break the thing I removed it from, or damage the both and need to buy another one anyway. I have bought a small set of bolts all around the right size that I keep around for just such situations.
You help me figure out what was wrong with my car. The nut on top of the shock was just hand tightened. After a ratchet on that baby and tightened it down and the noise disappeared. Don’t know how much money I saved but thank you.
Maybe stop assembling brake system dry. So the rust will not freeze anything. Easy (but "too hard" for most). 1. Paint the hubs, with any paint really (or more fancy stuff like aluminium-zinc), spray, light coat. Nope, it will not cause any runout as clowns say/think. 2. Chamfer the drums (on the lathe ideally), so the internal lip does not form. Obvious solution (but too "controversial" again - not my problem).
This approach would work too... I found another approach, that removes stuck brake rotors that are "welded" to the hub. A bolt and a nut that fit through the caliper bolt holes in the steering knuckle are the secret... Vic's Garage channel shows the approach. ua-cam.com/video/FAF5GF6hprY/v-deo.html it worked on my 2006 (Toyota) Scion xB.
U can also use a car; use a cargo strap, attach the wheel to the drum, and pull it off with the trailerhook. At least if do have lug bolts instead of nuts, like most european cars
And Make Sure To Wear SHORTS , Your Expensive Watch , Soft Running Shoes & By ALL Means NEVER WEAR SAFETY GLOGGLES/GLASSES When Hammering!!-...Budget Mechanic ???..yea ok ....Wannabe Mechanic ..More Your Style!!
Dude what you did for me man means so much. When you said don't leave the emergency brake on and immediately disconnected it and rotor just fell off. Man it meant so much to me. That was cool man. It just fell right off.
Great comprehensive tutorial on rotor and drum removal. This should get more views.
I've done several brake jobs on my various cars over the last ~40 years, and the bolt-in-the-threaded hole(s) trick was a Godsend for me this week. The holes weren't threaded on the last couple cars I'd done. I eyeballed the holes on my son's 2010 RAV4 and guessed they were M8. I had a short M8 on hand, and it did the job after my 8 lb. mini sledge didn't.
My only comment about this technique is that I used a ratchet instead of a power tool to tighten down the "leverage bolt". I wouldn't want it to twist off in the threaded hole and result in another problem. (That, and I don't have the power tool! 🙂)
It's a very satisfying "crack" when the rust and the caliper break loose. Thanks!
Glad it helped!
By far and away the best rotor removal video. Excellent video!
One thing I'll add is bolts with nut method from the inside of rotor through caliper mounting holes.
It saved me once where hammer and hydraulic puller failed.
Thank you, I used a small flat, heavy, steel pry bar nail remover. And the clamp. Once it was tight, I smacked the rotor once with a hammer and it popped loose. Thank you again 😊
Thank you. I could not remove my drum until I seen this video and was able to turn my self adjustment screw from behind the drum.
Very accurate and helpful. You sir, know your stuff. Great vid bud !
The best video for this! Got a new sub, no questions asked, great video!
Oh…and thanks for the videos you produce…very helpful. Especially the brake bleeding videos. 🙏👍😊
Super cool of you to do this thank you!
Our pleasure 🤙🏽
Fantastic information, thanks for sharing.
Thanks for these tips. I should have watched the video to the end on day 1 lol. There was lots of hammering before I came back and found the tip for the radiator bolt on day 2!
A stuck rotor is a PAIN. But I have had even WORSE luck! Before the rotor, couldn't get the effen _WHEEL_ off! And _another_ time, my mother bought 'the best' wheels... they each had FANCY bolt caps and THEY froze and seized! I crawled the van to a repair shop around the corner... even THEY, with usual air guns COULDN'T bug the dang things! They had to bring over their biggest pneumatic gripper (looked like a bazooka/rifle lol) to FINALLY crack them! (I replaced them ALL with regular 'junk' caps! lol) Thanks for your video!
Thank you.. I'm going to try this!
Thank you for explaining the drum groove part. I could not figure out why it will only come off a bit.
Glad to help!
Great video. Thanks for sharing
The heavy hammer is the way to go in many cases of stuck drums, that weargroove i grind out (flat) bij using a angle grinder with a 80 grid paper disc, makes it easy to install back without the adjustinghassle.
Also drilling a pair of holes and tapping them with a thread (i use 8mm) to enhance removing them the next time for service.
Good ideas for those with tools! Thanks!
Thanks. Useful tips as I’m just about to do my discs on a 13yr old Mini Cooper. Luckily no studs so should be easier to hammer:). One question… do you change carrier mounting bolts and Caliper guide pin builds for new ones? My Mini Haynes manual (uk) states these bolts are one time use? All the years I’ve done pad changes on many cars I’ve never changed Caliper bolts!
Neither have I! Could that be a special mini thing? (If it were me I’d Reuse them).
When slide pins become very worn it can lead to noisy rattling calipers. Grab your caliper once it’s installed and wiggle it. Is it noisy?
@@BudgetMechanicHawaii googling it does seem to indicate its widespread practise for many brands. My rough estimate on what Ive read is that abòut 90% seem to ignore the recommendation:) I've emailed Mini directly for reason but don't expect a reply.
Many thanks for the tip, it worked a treat.
thx, saved my life
You can do a Google search for the bolt size.
Ever have to use heat? Having trouble even with a puller...
How would I grind down the ridge/lip on the drum?
I believe the caliper bolts are the same size and pitch as the threaded jack screw holes in the rotor. Just lube the holes before threading the bolts in.
I haven’t seen a video anywhere regarding the “break lever”. It’s the lever where the parking break cable connects at the drum. Its function is to spread the brake shoes with an articulated lever action. My problem was that this all metal (steel) part was non-functional due to being seized by rust. With much difficulty I was able to exercise and manipulate it enough to get it out.
This would be a great video made by you.
The parking brakes are non-functional in this condition.
Hope you find this informational and motivational. 👍😊
Can i throw my wheel out of alignment by banging on it with a hammer? Because i banged the hell out mine yesterday. They came off but it took a pounding
Aloha from South FL! Being that the Hawaii islands are surrounded by ocean, do cars usually get rusted there?
Also, If no threaded hole, Autozone and O'Reilly have free tool loaner programs. Safety tip, put one or two lug nuts back on a few threads so the drum/rotor/puller does not hit your shins when it pops off.
How about using a torch to heat it up a little .That may loosen it up.
I ran a #5 threaded bolt with a washer and a jam nut through the brake caliper mounting holes.
I was very careful not to put too much force. Once force was applied, I used the small sledge. Then, I loosened and rotated the rotar slightly, repeating the process all the way around till she came loose.
I've been doing my own brakes for almost 40 years, and I've never run across a rotor that was stuck this bad. 😢
I trust you not to break caliper mounts, I don’t trust everyone else ;)
I just watched your short on adding coolant. Can you tell me if you have to use a specific brand? I have a 2003 Corolla
They make all purpose coolants that are fine to use
10:51 that’s the situation I’m in right now.
♥️✅👌 🇧🇩🇧🇩 merci monsieur ❤from Bangladesh 👍
Thanks mate , not afraid to get the mash hammer out and beat the snot out of my rusted on rear rotors . 😃👍💪🔨🔨👀
Just watch those studs!
Thanks for the reply. Will be careful don't need to spend more $$ on it. Might see if I can find a drift or something to save from swinging into the studs. Cheers From Australia mate😃👍
Thank you
You make sense, thanks much.
I had to put 99.5% glacial acetic acid, drop wise around the hub and lugs after I had soaked with pb blaster. Wanted to use hydro-chloric / muriatic acid but didn't have any on hand. Be careful when using any acid. Four hours after applying the acid with a dropper and playing jingle bells for 5 to 10 minutes with a large hammer i had success. I had also put a gear puller on it and that did not work. The previous installer did not align the threaded holes with spindle flange either. I am using anti seize this time.
By hammering the rotor, you are also hammering the wheel bearing which is very bad.
Awesome video
Thanks 🤙🏽
Could you grease that surface before installing the rotor to prevent this rusting?
😂😂😂 I wouldn't try that. Think about it!!!
@@brianstrange7942 Not the part of the rotor that the brakes touch. The part that is rusting onto the hub.
Just the other day I published a video on "the bolt hack to get rotor off". Title "I got my rotors off".
Blow torch, bolt, 4 pound sledge.
Yes I think some anti seize would be great. Just don’t use an oil or grease that will run out onto the rotor
the bolt side is M8/ 1.25mm then how long the bolt is depends 30mm to 50 works
Thank you sooooo much!
Found this video looking to help me out. All good techniques. Unfortunately I already tried them. I spent 4 hours hammering on one rotor yesterday and 6 on the other before i finally unseized them. Im at the point where im investing in a hydraulic puller for the last 2
try putting tension on it with bolts or puller, then use the hammer
My man! Ty
i tried changing my front rotors on my buddy's 2015 dodge Ram 1500 yesterday... got the calipers off and all cleaned up... had to kick the tire off it was so rusted on but we couldn't get the rotor off! it was welded with rust and all we had was a 28oz framing hammer! so we ended up just putting all back together and were planning to get it to a shop but after this I'm confident we can get it off... like most things in life...u just need a bigger HAMMAH!!! LMFAO😊😅😂
Thanks!!
I’m going to try one more time to get this drum off🤓
doent hitting it damage the wheel bearing
No chance I’m pulling a bolt from elsewhere. I’ll either break the thing I removed it from, or damage the both and need to buy another one anyway. I have bought a small set of bolts all around the right size that I keep around for just such situations.
Thank you!!!
Awesome... thanks!!! Definitely methods 1 or 2, not 3
Sometimes we need a refresher course🤓
You help me figure out what was wrong with my car. The nut on top of the shock was just hand tightened. After a ratchet on that baby and tightened it down and the noise disappeared. Don’t know how much money I saved but thank you.
Yikes glad you found that!
My issue is not rust but because it got to hot. Now rotor will not come off
Maybe stop assembling brake system dry. So the rust will not freeze anything. Easy (but "too hard" for most).
1. Paint the hubs, with any paint really (or more fancy stuff like aluminium-zinc), spray, light coat. Nope, it will not cause any runout as clowns say/think.
2. Chamfer the drums (on the lathe ideally), so the internal lip does not form. Obvious solution (but too "controversial" again - not my problem).
Bolt size pls
Different sizes. But common is m8x1.0
so... ive tried everything... all of which you have shown... my one rotor refuses to budge
How big is your hammer?
No vehicle that I have ever owned that had the threaded holes in rotor
You forgot one last option when all failed on the drum. I had to cut it in half.
Holy…
This approach would work too... I found another approach, that removes stuck brake rotors that are "welded" to the hub. A bolt and a nut that fit through the caliper bolt holes in the steering knuckle are the secret... Vic's Garage channel shows the approach. ua-cam.com/video/FAF5GF6hprY/v-deo.html it worked on my 2006 (Toyota) Scion xB.
👍👍👍
If you have a stuck rotor or drum, this is the video you must see!!!!
penetrant + tension +hammer whacks will get nearly anything off
Thanks for saving my ass!😅
I’m embarrassed to admit I was beating on my rotor for an hour before realising I had the parking brake on
I just take a ball peen hammer on drums. And replace wheel cylinders.
How civil
If you need an explanation of what’s a rotor and what’s a drum, you shouldn’t be doing your own brakes.
We’ll help you get there!
What's a brake?
😂 do you not understand the purpose of a diy how to video 🤷
You'll never learn if you never try.
Guess people shouldn’t waste their time learning anything at all
Good advice.
Can’t believe people didn’t know this at birth
🇲🇦🇲🇦🇲🇦
In 68 they didn't have holes damnit.
Never too late for a hole…
U can also use a car; use a cargo strap, attach the wheel to the drum, and pull it off with the trailerhook. At least if do have lug bolts instead of nuts, like most european cars
I give up
And Make Sure To Wear SHORTS , Your Expensive Watch , Soft Running Shoes & By ALL Means NEVER WEAR SAFETY GLOGGLES/GLASSES When Hammering!!-...Budget Mechanic ???..yea ok ....Wannabe Mechanic ..More Your Style!!
Nah. You must not watch anything on motor trend channel. Everyone knows that the best mechanics work in shorts and sandals 😉