Many thanks for this. WD-40 did the trick. Had to let it sit for a few minutes, but it popped right out with the hammer. I also appreciate telling us where NOT to hit it. Didn’t need the torch this time 😊
We tried WD-40, Blaster, pounding on it, heating it up with a torch, and lots of swearing. Your tip with the bolt was what broke it loose. Thank you for putting it out here, two thumbs up!
Sometimes, rotors come with a couple threaded holes on the face in between studs. They're the same thread as the caliper bracket bolts. You can thread those on and then use a wrench or impact to use the bolts to push the rotor away from the surface it's frozen to.
Actually the heat trick does fail. I did PB BLaster, hammering and heat all before coming here. Ehh, Big Red needs new wheel bearings and rotors so they are coming off together LOL
More heat then! At that point I'd use my actual acetylene torch and get it really hot. But most people don't have one of those. Good solution! I like it! Thanks for watching!
@@2carprosI just used the torch not getting it that hot but I think I fried a abs wire because my fuse box started clicking and I lost all the dash lights. Currently came back on but it won’t start and I can’t get the key out. 😢
I'm curious as to whether a good epoxy coating (primer/paint) on the axle surface before putting on the rotor would help prevent the rust some. I've been doing that on my rotors/axles and so far it seems to have been the way to go... But I don't live in any 'rust belt', so there's that I'll admit. Still, seen my share of stuck on rotors for sure. Last one was from Arizona! That was a reaaal fun time getting it off to replace it...
It helps. I use coated rotors most of the time and the hub gets sprayed with fluid film/waxoyl or similar, then rotor goes on and spray the rotor as well. Then clean the friction surfaces just before the wheel goes on. That helps quite a bit, but here you also need to check the caliper slides just about yearly as well because they rot in place as well.
Big bolt through the upper brake caliper mounting hole with nut on inside. Hold nut with box wrench and tighten it with an impact wrench. Back it off and 1/4 turn the rotor. Repeat until it breaks loose is they way I learned for stubborn rotors.
I've used this trick before and it works good. You got to be careful not to torque the bolt too much or else it could bend the ears of the knuckle. Yes this has happened to some people before.
As someone suggested in comments, I used the bolt and nut method to take the rotor out using a nut and bolt threw the caliper bracket, with the bolt pushing back on the rotor when you turn it while holding the nut with a box wrench. Usually, there are two bracket holes to do this. It worked like a charm, and I tried everything else for the worst-case stuck rotor. I suggest using high-strength bolts. I used class 10.9 bolts for the second go-around and instantly experienced the sweet sound of the rotor popping off the wheel. I found out the hard way that cheap-o screws from Lowes do not work. I wound up hacksawing it off in shame to free the bolt from the bracket. Next time, I will not hesitate to use this method.
Thanks for the advice. PB Blaster loaded up and sitting. Will do the torch method shortly to try and pop it off. Northern Wisconsin and years of salt let pray it comes loose!!!
I have had rotors that refused to come off with any of the methods that you mentioned. I have found that if the capper mounting holes are over the breaking surface, you can get some bolts from the hardware store and push the rotor off using the bracket mounting holes as a place to push against.
I mentioned at the start of the video the parking brake isn't holding the rotor. Usually that isn't the case. Usually rust and road crud are the culprit. Thanks for watching!
Good video thanks. The heat method is what I haven't tried yet. One thing I have to add is if the rotors are being replaced it's okay to knock on the outer rim area. Which means you can also knock from behind so the force is outwards, and has a greater leverage Although, access to knock is only in one spot so you need to rotate the rotor as you go. The greater leverage at the outer edge can make the difference of release or not, before resorting to the heat method.
I'm so thankful for this video, i could cry. Despite all my prowess with mechanics stuff, I always seem a little special when trying to remove stuck rotors...
If the metal expands all the way around wouldn’t it tighten it or does the whole thing only grow outwards? would it make more sense to just heat 1 side to make the ring size distort?
I wish the ones here came off that easy. That one had about 6 months of NY rust on it. My normal process is to heat the rotor and grab the 5 pound engineers hammer or I grab the big air hammer. Even then I've had some that had to be cut off they were rotted in place so bad. That is pretty much why every brake job in the rust belt is pads and rotors, they are just so rotted and get damaged in removal. I should load up a few rot boxes for you to play with.. LOL
What about a very thin coating of CRC brake grease on the hub? It's high temp and wouldn't think it would run when it gets hot. My old rotors have lots of miles left on them but tempted to take them off to address any rust/corrosion since I am in the rustbelt. Definitely want to wire wheel the outside of the rotor and the inside of the rim.
I use a snap-on impact air hammer. Usually comes off pretty quick. I've been a mechanic over 40yrs and have never seen a rotor break from hitting it from the back. If it did, it was most likely already cracked/defective. Just because one person yrs ago managed to shatter one with a 20lb sledge hammer doesn't mean no one should do it. I literally do it every single time the air hammer doesn't work. I was a mechanic in the army and all we had in the field was a few wrenches and a hammer. We hit them all the time. The only reason why today I wouldn't hit it from the back side is if I had to reuse the rotor or I didn't think I could turn the dimples out. Being replaced doesn't matter. In the field it just doesn't matter either way. What matters is you get it fixed and back to the mission.
I've definitely seen them break apart even with a mild hit and a medium hammer. Military stuff is most likely more robust. Think really small thin cheap passenger cars I have to cover all those scenarios. Thank you for your service and for watching!
You can also use a spray product called brake cleaner on the rotor and the other brake components. Then you'll have more carburetor cleaner on your shelf to clean carburetors. Careful though, just because brake cleaner works like carburetor cleaner does, it's not a good idea to use it on carburetors. It's not a good friend to rubber or plastic o rings.
My rotor doesn't fit all the way whys that?? Please help ive tried everything the rotor doesn't fit properly from the bottom Three screws the too fots perfectly but the bottom ones dont fit all the why pls help.
Thank you. Im a retired medic. My hubby is a trucker. I just got done changing the bumpers, abs sensors in the back, spark plugs, fuel pump, and fuel pressure sensor on my truck. I have struggled to do the front abs sensors because of the rotors being so stuck. Im doing this by myself using youtube, and I was just about to give in and take the truck and pay an exorbitant amount of money. Torch it is!
at almost 2 minutes in you can see the rotor shifts slightly which clearly shows the rotor is not stuck and so when he does tap it with a hammer first tap it miraculously comes lose.
I also tried all three, then saw another comment here about the parking brake. Turned that off and it popped off no problem. Turns out I did all that banging for no reason.
@@xavierdubose5220 Dude you are suppose to have the whole caliper off before removing the rotor. All break parts must be off. It is never safe to remove the parking brake. In addition, you should have rubber or brick tire stopper, and in addition you should place a tire underneath the vehicle not just to prevent it from crushing you, but sometimes the jacks fail and if you have a tire under, you save your frame from damage as well as the wheel assembly hub.
@@2carpros No dude. There is only one way. Combination of penetrant in the studs and the back + hitting it with a 3-5 lbs hammer. If you have muscle, it will come off unless it's been sitting outside in -20 degree Celsius weather or worse. If you are replacing the rotor, you can hit it all over the rotor. Remember to cover the studs...damage those and any repair is expensive ( the locknuts are 10$ each, wheel hub assembly is 2-3 hours labour + part. Always make sure to clean the studs before putting the lock nuts, clean the lock nuts, if a locknut is damaged, replace it right away. When affixing lock nuts, do it manually as much as possible, those powerful drills can easily damage the threads, but it you did most of the tightening yourself, your good. For untightening, use the drill no problem. Do not place oil, anti-seize or brake lubricant, WD-40 etc on the studs, nor on the rotor screws, nor on the rotor. The only liquid you can apply to to screws is medium thread locker. It would be stupid to apply that to brake caliper because frankly caliper not going anywhere, but to the rotor screws that makes sense especially to deter rotor/hub rust or to help fill the gab of previous rust. Important for rotor to be secure. To prevent rust in the head of screws, use a thick high temperature silicone lubricant like super lube. This also goes on the outside of the brake pads where the caliper expands and contracts. As for brake lubricant, don't use the silver stuff, you can use the copper stuff which has the added benefit on preventing corrosion on brake hardware or the orange stuff (brake lube). You'll notice when you clean the break hardware slot and break hardware that new brakes might not fit well; this is because they oversize to ensure compliance with the law and not lose money. You can remove a little bit of say what will look like paint such that it will now only be 66% painted where it slides then it will fit the breaking system better. Careful when cleaning everything. You don't want to remove too much material otherwise the brake hardware won't fit properly or break pad will be too loose. The silicone on the outside of the brake pad mostly does two things: eliminates the squeak, enhances reliability of braking system, and a bit of rust and added heat protection for break pads. Also you may be tempted to prevent rust on the rotor or wheel hub assembly. Unfortunately, the rotor must be left bare and that part all comes down to the quality of the part your order. As for the wheel hub (the middle that sticks out in the rotor), you could paint it at best. Do apply any other product other than break cleaner. Break cleaner is the only safe product to apply anywhere underneath the wheel; because it is not a lubricant and evaporates.
Many thanks for this. WD-40 did the trick. Had to let it sit for a few minutes, but it popped right out with the hammer. I also appreciate telling us where NOT to hit it. Didn’t need the torch this time 😊
We tried WD-40, Blaster, pounding on it, heating it up with a torch, and lots of swearing. Your tip with the bolt was what broke it loose. Thank you for putting it out here, two thumbs up!
Nice work! Thanks for watching!
Parking brake shoe is stuck got any pointers?
Good tips. After cleaning the hub, I apply a thin coat of the silver anti-seize which is high temp and makes removal easier.
Sometimes, rotors come with a couple threaded holes on the face in between studs. They're the same thread as the caliper bracket bolts. You can thread those on and then use a wrench or impact to use the bolts to push the rotor away from the surface it's frozen to.
You are correct. It works every time
Bless you and this comment. Rotor came off in 5 seconds.
@harvey1115 glad it helped!!
@@habilaj5 Except when the holes are rusted and the threads strip before the rotor pops off.
My man. Did the trick for me. Thank you.
Actually the heat trick does fail. I did PB BLaster, hammering and heat all before coming here. Ehh, Big Red needs new wheel bearings and rotors so they are coming off together LOL
More heat then! At that point I'd use my actual acetylene torch and get it really hot. But most people don't have one of those. Good solution! I like it! Thanks for watching!
@@2carprosI just used the torch not getting it that hot but I think I fried a abs wire because my fuse box started clicking and I lost all the dash lights. Currently came back on but it won’t start and I can’t get the key out. 😢
I'm curious as to whether a good epoxy coating (primer/paint) on the axle surface before putting on the rotor would help prevent the rust some. I've been doing that on my rotors/axles and so far it seems to have been the way to go... But I don't live in any 'rust belt', so there's that I'll admit. Still, seen my share of stuck on rotors for sure. Last one was from Arizona! That was a reaaal fun time getting it off to replace it...
It helps. I use coated rotors most of the time and the hub gets sprayed with fluid film/waxoyl or similar, then rotor goes on and spray the rotor as well. Then clean the friction surfaces just before the wheel goes on. That helps quite a bit, but here you also need to check the caliper slides just about yearly as well because they rot in place as well.
Big bolt through the upper brake caliper mounting hole with nut on inside. Hold nut with box wrench and tighten it with an impact wrench. Back it off and 1/4 turn the rotor. Repeat until it breaks loose is they way I learned for stubborn rotors.
I've used this trick before and it works good. You got to be careful not to torque the bolt too much or else it could bend the ears of the knuckle. Yes this has happened to some people before.
After an hour of struggling!!!! The torch method worked! Thank you!!
As someone suggested in comments, I used the bolt and nut method to take the rotor out using a nut and bolt threw the caliper bracket, with the bolt pushing back on the rotor when you turn it while holding the nut with a box wrench. Usually, there are two bracket holes to do this. It worked like a charm, and I tried everything else for the worst-case stuck rotor. I suggest using high-strength bolts. I used class 10.9 bolts for the second go-around and instantly experienced the sweet sound of the rotor popping off the wheel. I found out the hard way that cheap-o screws from Lowes do not work. I wound up hacksawing it off in shame to free the bolt from the bracket. Next time, I will not hesitate to use this method.
Absolute legend!!! The first method didn’t end up working for me but hearing it up worked a treat.
Thanks for the advice. PB Blaster loaded up and sitting. Will do the torch method shortly to try and pop it off. Northern Wisconsin and years of salt let pray it comes loose!!!
Good luck! Thanks for watching!
I have had rotors that refused to come off with any of the methods that you mentioned. I have found that if the capper mounting holes are over the breaking surface, you can get some bolts from the hardware store and push the rotor off using the bracket mounting holes as a place to push against.
You should have talked about the park brakes holding the rotor on. Something it wears a groove in the rotor drum and prevents it from coming off.
I mentioned at the start of the video the parking brake isn't holding the rotor. Usually that isn't the case. Usually rust and road crud are the culprit. Thanks for watching!
This is my problem can’t find answers anywhere
My rotor is off the hub but it has like a springy feel when I pull on it
Good video thanks. The heat method is what I haven't tried yet.
One thing I have to add is if the rotors are being replaced it's okay to knock on the outer rim area. Which means you can also knock from behind so the force is outwards, and has a greater leverage Although, access to knock is only in one spot so you need to rotate the rotor as you go.
The greater leverage at the outer edge can make the difference of release or not, before resorting to the heat method.
PB Blaster and hammering the face of the rotor, as you demonstrated, did the trick for me - thanks.
I'm so thankful for this video, i could cry. Despite all my prowess with mechanics stuff, I always seem a little special when trying to remove stuck rotors...
Thanks for watching!
Maybe you can use anti-seize behind the rotor?
Very helpful video awesome dude very explanatory
If the metal expands all the way around wouldn’t it tighten it or does the whole thing only grow outwards? would it make more sense to just heat 1 side to make the ring size distort?
I wish the ones here came off that easy. That one had about 6 months of NY rust on it. My normal process is to heat the rotor and grab the 5 pound engineers hammer or I grab the big air hammer. Even then I've had some that had to be cut off they were rotted in place so bad. That is pretty much why every brake job in the rust belt is pads and rotors, they are just so rotted and get damaged in removal. I should load up a few rot boxes for you to play with.. LOL
Yeah we get lucky here, you need extra fire!
Haha send me a box of rust to paly with lol
You sir are a life saver 💯💯
Will a propane torch work or does it not get hot enough?
Propane torch will work just will take a little longer. Thanks for watching!
Another video where you make it look significantly easier than it actually is
You can use anti size behind the rotor to keep it from sticking.
What about a very thin coating of CRC brake grease on the hub? It's high temp and wouldn't think it would run when it gets hot. My old rotors have lots of miles left on them but tempted to take them off to address any rust/corrosion since I am in the rustbelt. Definitely want to wire wheel the outside of the rotor and the inside of the rim.
07 Mercury I realized I was trying to loosen a bolt for the axle, still had a hard time getting the rotor, so thank you
That worked I sprayd wd40 and then hit the area you showed with a hammer and it worked damn
Thank you!! WD-40 and a hammer worked a charm! Disappointed I didn't get to use the blow torch 😂
Great job!
THANK YOU for the advice! Worked like a charm after hitting it with the heat.
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
Good advice thank fighting it for hours watched your video and was done within the hour thank you for the good tips
Excellent! Thanks for watching!
I use a snap-on impact air hammer. Usually comes off pretty quick. I've been a mechanic over 40yrs and have never seen a rotor break from hitting it from the back. If it did, it was most likely already cracked/defective. Just because one person yrs ago managed to shatter one with a 20lb sledge hammer doesn't mean no one should do it. I literally do it every single time the air hammer doesn't work. I was a mechanic in the army and all we had in the field was a few wrenches and a hammer. We hit them all the time.
The only reason why today I wouldn't hit it from the back side is if I had to reuse the rotor or I didn't think I could turn the dimples out. Being replaced doesn't matter. In the field it just doesn't matter either way. What matters is you get it fixed and back to the mission.
I've definitely seen them break apart even with a mild hit and a medium hammer. Military stuff is most likely more robust. Think really small thin cheap passenger cars I have to cover all those scenarios.
Thank you for your service and for watching!
Thank you, I did what you told me and bingo!
You can also use a spray product called brake cleaner on the rotor and the other brake components. Then you'll have more carburetor cleaner on your shelf to clean carburetors. Careful though, just because brake cleaner works like carburetor cleaner does, it's not a good idea to use it on carburetors. It's not a good friend to rubber or plastic o rings.
Thankyou so very much
My rotor doesn't fit all the way whys that?? Please help ive tried everything the rotor doesn't fit properly from the bottom Three screws the too fots perfectly but the bottom ones dont fit all the why pls help.
Thank you! Butane did it for me
I used heat gun it worked also. Thanks guys!
Awesome, glad it worked for you!
Blow torch didn’t work
What do you do when the torch method does not work???
More heat! It always works. Thanks for watching!
what happens if i dont have a blow torch???
I'd buy one. Thanks for watching!
I have a huge question off this subject how u hook up electric water to heater and ac? Can’t find any answers I’m building 331 stroker
Thanks, man you have that a lot
COOL VIDEO !
Thanks!
Thank you. Im a retired medic. My hubby is a trucker. I just got done changing the bumpers, abs sensors in the back, spark plugs, fuel pump, and fuel pressure sensor on my truck. I have struggled to do the front abs sensors because of the rotors being so stuck. Im doing this by myself using youtube, and I was just about to give in and take the truck and pay an exorbitant amount of money. Torch it is!
Stick a wrench behind the rotar and turn the wheel
elaborate please
Yes ,explain a lil more plz lol
@@2blea_danny u still havin problems? might be able to help u i got mine done
@@turbochicken863I got it man thanks , I ended up using a torch came right off
@@2blea_danny damn thankfully i didn’t have to resort to that, good for you though!
Amazing step-by-step advice! This is super helpful!
Thank you for watching!
at almost 2 minutes in you can see the rotor shifts slightly which clearly shows the rotor is not stuck and so when he does tap it with a hammer first tap it miraculously comes lose.
Hi I'm form kig dom of Bahrain
I’ll come back if beating the $h!t out of my rotor doesn’t work
"The hot ticket" (literally!)
4 lb. Hammer 🔨 Wack it four times and you done.
Didn't work, tried all three methods.
More heat then.
I also tried all three, then saw another comment here about the parking brake. Turned that off and it popped off no problem. Turns out I did all that banging for no reason.
@@xavierdubose5220 Dude you are suppose to have the whole caliper off before removing the rotor. All break parts must be off. It is never safe to remove the parking brake. In addition, you should have rubber or brick tire stopper, and in addition you should place a tire underneath the vehicle not just to prevent it from crushing you, but sometimes the jacks fail and if you have a tire under, you save your frame from damage as well as the wheel assembly hub.
@@2carpros
No dude. There is only one way. Combination of penetrant in the studs and the back + hitting it with a 3-5 lbs hammer. If you have muscle, it will come off unless it's been sitting outside in -20 degree Celsius weather or worse. If you are replacing the rotor, you can hit it all over the rotor. Remember to cover the studs...damage those and any repair is expensive ( the locknuts are 10$ each, wheel hub assembly is 2-3 hours labour + part. Always make sure to clean the studs before putting the lock nuts, clean the lock nuts, if a locknut is damaged, replace it right away. When affixing lock nuts, do it manually as much as possible, those powerful drills can easily damage the threads, but it you did most of the tightening yourself, your good. For untightening, use the drill no problem. Do not place oil, anti-seize or brake lubricant, WD-40 etc on the studs, nor on the rotor screws, nor on the rotor. The only liquid you can apply to to screws is medium thread locker. It would be stupid to apply that to brake caliper because frankly caliper not going anywhere, but to the rotor screws that makes sense especially to deter rotor/hub rust or to help fill the gab of previous rust. Important for rotor to be secure. To prevent rust in the head of screws, use a thick high temperature silicone lubricant like super lube. This also goes on the outside of the brake pads where the caliper expands and contracts. As for brake lubricant, don't use the silver stuff, you can use the copper stuff which has the added benefit on preventing corrosion on brake hardware or the orange stuff (brake lube). You'll notice when you clean the break hardware slot and break hardware that new brakes might not fit well; this is because they oversize to ensure compliance with the law and not lose money. You can remove a little bit of say what will look like paint such that it will now only be 66% painted where it slides then it will fit the breaking system better. Careful when cleaning everything. You don't want to remove too much material otherwise the brake hardware won't fit properly or break pad will be too loose. The silicone on the outside of the brake pad mostly does two things: eliminates the squeak, enhances reliability of braking system, and a bit of rust and added heat protection for break pads. Also you may be tempted to prevent rust on the rotor or wheel hub assembly. Unfortunately, the rotor must be left bare and that part all comes down to the quality of the part your order. As for the wheel hub (the middle that sticks out in the rotor), you could paint it at best. Do apply any other product other than break cleaner. Break cleaner is the only safe product to apply anywhere underneath the wheel; because it is not a lubricant and evaporates.
I love UA-cam
Nothing worked
We are still stuck!!!!! "NvM
Astro Pneumatic 78830
BFH
Dude this is useless, stop with the drama and give use useful tips
I did.