I appreciate seeing what you can get to with is still in car! Great! Thanks for putting this up. Looks like there is no reason to pull the trans for a reverse problem. Also, I think someone could cut the notches for the new seal rings if they were careful.
Yep, no reason to pull the trans for a reverse issue. My compounder split in half and I lost reverse. Replaced the drum with the one he mentioned in the video and it not only has reverse, but a noticeable increase in output from the forward gears. My top seal ring was about 2mm away from coming off the end like he also mentioned.
'09 Caravan 140K would not move in reverse (+ code 0792 / 0736). Found LC housing snap ring teeth sheared off. Upgraded LC housing, new frictions, seals, etc. Suggestions: Gary Ferraro D/A video, I convinced a trans shop to install snap ring on LC piston return spring, make sure VB shift pin is inserted to linkage before seating 3 tube O- rings. I would have never tried this until I saw this video. 👍
I believe I got a piece of exhaust tubing of just the right diameter, cut square on both ends, and cut it slightly longer than the shaft. I probably cut a large window opening in the side of the tube, so I could access the snap ring with my snap-ring pliers. I think I then set everything on my press and pushed down on the spring with the exhaust tubing and press, and removed/installed the snap ring as necessary. I can say for certain that I did exactly that on this particular transmission, but I've done it in many similar situations. In hindsight, I really should've covered that in this video. Sorry for leaving it out!
I'm working on my son's 2012 Town and Country, actually have transmission out, thought or hoped it was the solenoid block but it wasn't, I have watched a little of Gary Ferraro's stuff then saw this and thought well maybe I'll tear into it (was leaning towards buying a remanufactured transmission), so after watching this, I watched his 62te teardown and thought, that's a lot of retaining rings to keep track of and one thing after the other stacked in there so went back to leaning towards buying the rebuild, plus it's getting colder and I want to get this out of my garage. Fluid in this one I'm working on isn't too bad, lot of sludge on magnet, tiny flakes but no big stuff, if it sits overnite or for an hour or two it will shift but within 5 min it stops, whines like crazy. A friend who did transmissions but is retired and sold all his tools said it sounded like it was internal probably a low clutch issue, compounder etc., that's kind of what led me to your video, watching yours makes it look a little simpler than watching the whole teardown by Gary. So did what you show fix the problem ? Separate question, what car lift do you have there, how wide is it and what is your ceiling height ? I'm getting to the age that if I'm going keep doing this I want/need a lift .
If it whines a lot, you may want to research pump issues--I've heard that's common. The fix shown here definitely worked for me. We've put about 25k flawless miles on it since then. The car lift I bought used and it was ancient. Nearly touched the 12 foot peak. I've since moved and have a higher ceiling, poured my own slab and bought a new Ideal certified 10k bi-symmetric lift.
@FixItCheap I have a 2011 chrysler town and country I having a really weird issue nobody can figure it out I be driving it then all of a sudden it gets stuck in one gear nothing I do helps it get out of that gear then I have to pull over shut it off let it sit for a few seconds then turn it back on and it drives beautifully no hard shifting shifts into every gear then after driving a couple miles it does it again gets stuck into a gear then have to shut it off again and works fine when I go from park to drive I do hear a real bad clunk from the side pan sometimes it doesn't happen all the time this van is very Bazaar just got it 3 weeks after it was driving fire for couple weeks then this last week it started doing it it has the same codes p0734 p0735 p0733 thank you
@@mustanggta5444 so I just replaced the transmission in my son's 2012 Town and Country, been a learning experience in more way's than one. His van was showing P0733, P0846 and P083B, I researched those codes extensively and just looked up the codes you listed, also talked to a friend who was a transmission specialist but has retired and sold all his tools and he gave me some suggestions, I was thinking/hoping it was solenoid pack but he said it sounded more internal. Based on your codes and symptoms this is what i would recommend you do first, drop the trans oil pan and check for any large metal pieces, don't worry about metallic flakes that's normal, if no large pieces of anything that's positive and don't worry about black sludge unless there is an awful lot of it (if a lot then your clutches are pretty worn), check fluid, is there any red color to it at all or is it brown, if it's red or even dark red it's probably okay. Clean the magnet and all sludge out of pan, buy one of those Dorman transmission drains and install it on side of pan close to bottom edge (deep side of pan), don't put it on bottom. The washers that come with it don't work so well so go to Ace and buy a bronze or brass washer that fits the bigger part and a nylon washer that fits the smaller drain plug. Put one of the big nylon washers on inside and the other big nylon washer and bronze washer on outside and crank those down pretty snug, throw away the rubber o-ring on drain plug and the put couple wraps of thread tape on and then smaller nylon washer and snug that up, it will leak if you don't do all that. Install a new filter and instead of RTV i recommend getting a gasket, better way to go especially if you have to take it back off. put it back together, will take about 5 to 5.5 qts of ATF+4, multiple videos about checking fluid, I have done the oil dipstick method but also bought one of the special dipsticks, it was cheap. Take it for a ride, if it runs okay you are in luck and that's the easiest route. If it still acts up you can check the solenoids, plenty of diagrams and data sheets online for those and it's reasonably to get to, i just went to a junk yard and cut off the connecter with wires as long as I could get, labeled the wires and plugged that in and checked the solenoids with that. Based on you codes and symptoms I'm guessing it's not any solenoids but most likely the low clutch drum which is fairly common and in fact Chrysler has updated that part, that's the most likely. It could also be a problem with the pump or torque converter but doesn't seem likely based on your symptoms. If you have to pull the transmission, I would go with a completely rebuilt one or have somebody rebuild it, my experience with Ebay is that peoples ideas of "used good" or "refurbished" are different than my definition, also a lot of the tranny's listed even though the say they run and may even guarantee them, they have high mileage. That's kind of lengthy but hope it helps.
I didn't. I've had to do rather extensive adaptation procedures after repairing volvos, but this Chrysler trans just went straight back to normal operation.
It's not necessary, but it will improve shift quality faster. The PCM will eventually learn the changes and adapt with out it, but you're talking about a week instead of a few hours.
This is the exact problem with my 2010 Caravan. After searching for a mechanic to change out my compounder, I have not been able to find anyone to do it. Do you have any suggestions on how to go about finding a mechanic to replace the compounder? I live near Cincinnati. Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.
@@HT-wd9md I wish I could. It's tough finding people to do things like this. Most will only do a full replacement or rebuild. That's why I do all my own work and make videos to help other DIYers. Maybe you can find an independent mom & pop transmission shop nearby? Good luck with your search!
@@CheapskateGarage Thanks for getting back to me. Yes they all just want to replace the transmission. I have nothing to lose to try it myself if the alternative is a complete transmission replacement anyway.
2010 Dodge journey have p0732 p0735 p0792 replaced all the 3 sensors also check voltages everything good still having same issue did u only replace the damage parts or u order the rebuilt kit for only the compounder assembly
I only replaced the drum and the piston with the damaged seal. Everything else was ok. We just sold the van after putting more than 30k more trouble-free miles on the transmission.
Please check out part two of the video; the problem was a leaking internal seal. The trans is fixed and has been working flawlessly for about 20k miles so far.
Any OBD2 scanner can clear these codes. On a budget, I go with a Bluetooth ELM327 adapter from Amazon paired to an Android phone when the Torque Pro app.
Nice detective work,, finally someone fixing tranny in car
I appreciate seeing what you can get to with is still in car! Great! Thanks for putting this up. Looks like there is no reason to pull the trans for a reverse problem. Also, I think someone could cut the notches for the new seal rings if they were careful.
You're welcome! I think you're right, if the existing assembly had very little wear, it could be notched out for the new rings.
Yep, no reason to pull the trans for a reverse issue. My compounder split in half and I lost reverse. Replaced the drum with the one he mentioned in the video and it not only has reverse, but a noticeable increase in output from the forward gears. My top seal ring was about 2mm away from coming off the end like he also mentioned.
'09 Caravan 140K would not move in reverse (+ code 0792 / 0736). Found LC housing snap ring teeth sheared off. Upgraded LC housing, new frictions, seals, etc. Suggestions: Gary Ferraro D/A video, I convinced a trans shop to install snap ring on LC piston return spring, make sure VB shift pin is inserted to linkage before seating 3 tube O- rings. I would have never tried this until I saw this video. 👍
Awesome! I'm glad you dug in and found the problem.
How did you get the spring compressed to remove the snap ring that holds the low clutch piston in place?
I believe I got a piece of exhaust tubing of just the right diameter, cut square on both ends, and cut it slightly longer than the shaft. I probably cut a large window opening in the side of the tube, so I could access the snap ring with my snap-ring pliers. I think I then set everything on my press and pushed down on the spring with the exhaust tubing and press, and removed/installed the snap ring as necessary.
I can say for certain that I did exactly that on this particular transmission, but I've done it in many similar situations. In hindsight, I really should've covered that in this video. Sorry for leaving it out!
I'm working on my son's 2012 Town and Country, actually have transmission out, thought or hoped it was the solenoid block but it wasn't, I have watched a little of Gary Ferraro's stuff then saw this and thought well maybe I'll tear into it (was leaning towards buying a remanufactured transmission), so after watching this, I watched his 62te teardown and thought, that's a lot of retaining rings to keep track of and one thing after the other stacked in there so went back to leaning towards buying the rebuild, plus it's getting colder and I want to get this out of my garage. Fluid in this one I'm working on isn't too bad, lot of sludge on magnet, tiny flakes but no big stuff, if it sits overnite or for an hour or two it will shift but within 5 min it stops, whines like crazy. A friend who did transmissions but is retired and sold all his tools said it sounded like it was internal probably a low clutch issue, compounder etc., that's kind of what led me to your video, watching yours makes it look a little simpler than watching the whole teardown by Gary. So did what you show fix the problem ? Separate question, what car lift do you have there, how wide is it and what is your ceiling height ? I'm getting to the age that if I'm going keep doing this I want/need a lift .
If it whines a lot, you may want to research pump issues--I've heard that's common. The fix shown here definitely worked for me. We've put about 25k flawless miles on it since then. The car lift I bought used and it was ancient. Nearly touched the 12 foot peak. I've since moved and have a higher ceiling, poured my own slab and bought a new Ideal certified 10k bi-symmetric lift.
@FixItCheap I have a 2011 chrysler town and country I having a really weird issue nobody can figure it out I be driving it then all of a sudden it gets stuck in one gear nothing I do helps it get out of that gear then I have to pull over shut it off let it sit for a few seconds then turn it back on and it drives beautifully no hard shifting shifts into every gear then after driving a couple miles it does it again gets stuck into a gear then have to shut it off again and works fine when I go from park to drive I do hear a real bad clunk from the side pan sometimes it doesn't happen all the time this van is very Bazaar just got it 3 weeks after it was driving fire for couple weeks then this last week it started doing it it has the same codes p0734 p0735 p0733 thank you
@@mustanggta5444 so I just replaced the transmission in my son's 2012 Town and Country, been a learning experience in more way's than one. His van was showing P0733, P0846 and P083B, I researched those codes extensively and just looked up the codes you listed, also talked to a friend who was a transmission specialist but has retired and sold all his tools and he gave me some suggestions, I was thinking/hoping it was solenoid pack but he said it sounded more internal. Based on your codes and symptoms this is what i would recommend you do first, drop the trans oil pan and check for any large metal pieces, don't worry about metallic flakes that's normal, if no large pieces of anything that's positive and don't worry about black sludge unless there is an awful lot of it (if a lot then your clutches are pretty worn), check fluid, is there any red color to it at all or is it brown, if it's red or even dark red it's probably okay. Clean the magnet and all sludge out of pan, buy one of those Dorman transmission drains and install it on side of pan close to bottom edge (deep side of pan), don't put it on bottom. The washers that come with it don't work so well so go to Ace and buy a bronze or brass washer that fits the bigger part and a nylon washer that fits the smaller drain plug. Put one of the big nylon washers on inside and the other big nylon washer and bronze washer on outside and crank those down pretty snug, throw away the rubber o-ring on drain plug and the put couple wraps of thread tape on and then smaller nylon washer and snug that up, it will leak if you don't do all that. Install a new filter and instead of RTV i recommend getting a gasket, better way to go especially if you have to take it back off. put it back together, will take about 5 to 5.5 qts of ATF+4, multiple videos about checking fluid, I have done the oil dipstick method but also bought one of the special dipsticks, it was cheap. Take it for a ride, if it runs okay you are in luck and that's the easiest route. If it still acts up you can check the solenoids, plenty of diagrams and data sheets online for those and it's reasonably to get to, i just went to a junk yard and cut off the connecter with wires as long as I could get, labeled the wires and plugged that in and checked the solenoids with that. Based on you codes and symptoms I'm guessing it's not any solenoids but most likely the low clutch drum which is fairly common and in fact Chrysler has updated that part, that's the most likely. It could also be a problem with the pump or torque converter but doesn't seem likely based on your symptoms. If you have to pull the transmission, I would go with a completely rebuilt one or have somebody rebuild it, my experience with Ebay is that peoples ideas of "used good" or "refurbished" are different than my definition, also a lot of the tranny's listed even though the say they run and may even guarantee them, they have high mileage. That's kind of lengthy but hope it helps.
I got a p0733 3th gear just that would I be able just to fix that or should I repair the whole thing
Question, did you have to reprogram your transmission after you completed all the work to the compound gear assembly.?
I didn't. I've had to do rather extensive adaptation procedures after repairing volvos, but this Chrysler trans just went straight back to normal operation.
It's not necessary, but it will improve shift quality faster. The PCM will eventually learn the changes and adapt with out it, but you're talking about a week instead of a few hours.
This is the exact problem with my 2010 Caravan. After searching for a mechanic to change out my compounder, I have not been able to find anyone to do it. Do you have any suggestions on how to go about finding a mechanic to replace the compounder? I live near Cincinnati. Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.
@@HT-wd9md I wish I could. It's tough finding people to do things like this. Most will only do a full replacement or rebuild. That's why I do all my own work and make videos to help other DIYers. Maybe you can find an independent mom & pop transmission shop nearby? Good luck with your search!
@@CheapskateGarage Thanks for getting back to me. Yes they all just want to replace the transmission. I have nothing to lose to try it myself if the alternative is a complete transmission replacement anyway.
@@HT-wd9md Good luck with your repairs then! I hope you find the smoking gun in there.
Hello
Is the Benzin and Diesel ?
But how do you know if you replaced everything? Did you do solenoids valve body and all?
The repair shown in parts 1 & 2 is the only repair I performed. I did not do anything with sensors, solenoids, or the valve body.
@@CheapskateGarage ok I see very cool
2010 Dodge journey have p0732 p0735 p0792 replaced all the 3 sensors also check voltages everything good still having same issue did u only replace the damage parts or u order the rebuilt kit for only the compounder assembly
I only replaced the drum and the piston with the damaged seal. Everything else was ok. We just sold the van after putting more than 30k more trouble-free miles on the transmission.
Thanks great video
How long did it take u just to remove compounder and valve body
@@charrito020Hard to say since it's been a few years, but probably about 90 minutes. Having a lift saves some time for sure.
Fantastic
What webpage are you using for assmbly ?
Hard to remember, but I think I may have bought the $30 Alldata subscription for this car.
What was it? Fixed now? Did it still drive? Could it be the tipm?
Please check out part two of the video; the problem was a leaking internal seal. The trans is fixed and has been working flawlessly for about 20k miles so far.
could you tell me how to reset the computer or how to clear de OBD codes please?
Any OBD2 scanner can clear these codes. On a budget, I go with a Bluetooth ELM327 adapter from Amazon paired to an Android phone when the Torque Pro app.
Master 👌👌👌😎
good!
top.n.1
Mabey someone did a fluid and filter change on the trans, and did a sloppy job
P084b have
Ich suche jemanden für meinen Lancia Voyager Baujahr 12/2013
2.8 Diesel das Getriebe Reparieren..?
P0733
P0734
P0792
(codes) PO732 PO733 PO734.
It is a fuking Vw
Believe it or not, it was built by Chrysler as the Volkswagen Routan…
It's just a rebadged Chrysler Town and Country or Dodge Grand Caravan. Everything is the same.