Bravo One Outdrive Service - Drive Shaft Seal
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- Опубліковано 13 вер 2024
- Get detailed Bravo One Outdrive Service and repair info at www.bravoone.sl...
OIL IN THE BELLOWS? How to replace the drive shaft seal on a Bravo One Outdrive. Set Bearing Pre-Load.
Find link to service manual, online schematics and service bulletins on my web site. Nothing to buy. Just FREE help.
I am servicing my two sterndrives. These videos show my work. You can fix yours too.
Check it out.
Good Video. Thanks for posting these. I just bought my first i/o, and I'm absorbing everything.
Thanks for one of the best video instructional's on youtube,, very professionally made,, "narrated" instead of "work & talk" style, which is nice to see here! As for my question, I have an "alpha second generation" outdrive that is leaking oil from the upper input shaft, just as your bravo upper was. Should I assume there removal/install procedures are basically same,, and,, what were the preload measurements supposed to be when you reinstalled the gear and locknut? Thanks for a great video!
Excellent thank you for the quiet and focused video✨
Where the hell do you live and why didn't you raise me??!!!!!!! Fing amazing sir
Excellent Video!
Very good video---you do nice work.
Thanks
Hi Excellent Video. I have replaced the bearings with new and have set the preload for new bearings. I find now that when fitting the drive shaft into the housing and tightening the retainer nut the gears are binding. I understand that when fitting new bearings to the drive shaft that they will need to be shimmed. There are no shims currently fitted. Can you please advise.
Can the timing marks be seen without removing the shift linkage? I'm trying to avoid possibly re-installing the shift mechanism improperly!
Your freshly put ''press fitted'' seal @ 4:51 is far from sitting flat (not fully sitting) !! Does it set itself right when you're ''Turn torquing'' the whole unit back into the casing ??
I can’t get my yoke seal to hold under pressure test! Changed yoke and oil seal. I’m ready to give up
Hello, appreciate your posting the video on how to replace the upper seal on the bravo. I'm in the process of doing the same with my Bravo II outdrive and have encountered a snag. Have pulled the outdrive, opened the housing, removed the shifter assembly, have the spanner to remove the retainer nut. Have loosened the retainer nut completely and was expecting the u-joint assembly to simply pull out of the housing. But won't come with human muscle. Got any ideas or suggestions what might be up? It spins smoothly as I would expect, but doesn't want to come out. Thanks so much.
Here is a copy of the manual www.ta-group.at/dokus/service_manual_all_bravo_drives.pdf
It should just pull out. It is tight tolerances. You might try rapping on the side of the case with a mallet. I knocked the drive shaft against the bench as I pulled it out as seen in this video ua-cam.com/video/QIB6FpEmziM/v-deo.html
Thanks very much for your reply. Still having no luck pulling by hand. Trying to figure out what's going on. Here's my theory I would like to run by you. This boat is new to me, so this is the first time I have been in the drive. I have reason to believe that work has been done on the drive previously as evidenced by the leftovers of a upper housing seal kit (have the packaging with the part number, oil seal is not among the leftover items) among the various items left on the boat when I purchased it.
Second half of my comment. Could it be that when the drive was previously worked on the wrong (too large) large o-ring in the u-joint assembly was used thus creating a very tight fit of the assembly when inserted into the housing? Or, could the assembly have been preloaded too tightly thus creating a 'bulging' of the same large o-ring in the assembly and resulting in a very tight fit of the assembly in the housing? Is there a 'notch' in the housing that the large o-ring of the u-joint assembly is intended to sit when the assembly is inserted into the housing. Thanks very much for your reply. Mike
@@michaelfanelli6018: I know its an old post but.. in case .. FYI.. considering you've already disassembled the gearing front end and top end first.. all whats left is the drive shaft ''FORK TYPE'' locknut then it should come out easily by hand. If it still wont come out then probably had previous unadequate service works done to it or major overheat/leaks/frictions kinda welding the end shaft to the casing. NO O-RING in the world is strong enough, could be overpowering your hands .
@@chrisking7255 Old post, but I had to take a heat gun and warm up the housing to get it to move in the housing. No, I did not burn any o rings. Just warmed it up. Worked wonders.
i have tried 3 times to set the preload on the drive shaft bearings
without any luck. I loosened the bearing each time. I tried a sweep arm
torque wrench and a click type. I cannot get any reading before nut
bottoms out. Any idea what I'm doing wrong
Its cause guys like this can do things that only.oooo1 percent of the population can or even want to.
Question??? If this driveshaft seal is leaking, can this cause water to leak into the boat. I have a very small leak coming from somewhere andI cant find it. I have removed both engines along with the Bravo 1 drives and the gimble housings, both the inner and the outer. I out on a new gimble seal and I still have the same leak. I have been pulling my hair out for 2 years now and I cant find it. It is very slow, but still it is there. Any ideas please?? Thanks.
This drive shaft seal will not cause water to leak into the boat. If this leaks, you may see oil in the bellows.
ok...thank you for the answer. I am somewhat relieved, but I dont have any oil in the boat, so I guess that is a good thing. I do have this tiny leak...more like a big drip and I cant for the life of me find it. I pulled the motors out last December along with the K-planes and the gimbles, thinking that maybe the gimble seal was leaking alittle. New foam seal and resealed all the holes going thru the transum and I still have that stinking leak. The only thing I didnt change or look at is the streering arm with that steering pin thing that sits vertical on the top of the gimble housing. I have had a few people tell me that water could be coming in there because of a bad seal on the steering pin. I am debating on pulling the motors and gimbles again this winter. I dont want to drill thru the sides of my Bravos, so I either pull the motors and go at it correctly or deal with it...decisions...decisions.
Thank you for your help...Paul
You can find a link to a complete online bravo one service manual # 28 about halfway down the home page at www.bravoone.slantpower.com Look through the diagrams in section 4 to see where a leak could be.