HOW TO WIN REAL STREET DRAG RC | PARTS | GEARING | HAVE FUN
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- Опубліковано 27 лип 2023
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the chase to sub 2s is more then most people want to do. around here anyway. it just isnt fun. running real car bodies in real street an even box stock chassis is so much more fun an less grindy. and the use of throttle curves being ok but not gyros is bs anyway. both driver assist one in the same. steering assist really helps the new guys.
Good info man!!
Love your vids, thinking about building a r1 chassis I seen you suggested several things like the motor and the battery and the chassis with the m17 ( which I already have) but surely there would be more that you suggest to use when building the car up to race, would you replace any of the parts on the chassis that would be a better choice then stock. Thanks a bunch keep up the vids very informative.
that video was def geared more towards a real street class. now if you want outlaw thats a different ballgame. the DC1 outlaw version is what i run and a perfect start an then you can do as many upgrades to the chassis as youd like becuase they make it all!! start watching my videos from late spring of last year for most of the current stuff and then the parts i purchased over the winter
@@Dorkyand40 I will thanks a bunch
@Dorkyand40 man i thought you were show a pic of my supra again .... :) ... whennit comes to looking correct on the leave .. its THE realest lookin real street. On a real street. :)
lol..good deal
I need some help I’m just blowing the tires off and can not get any traction I have a vid of it lunching if that helps it’s an outlaw car too
you need to double coat your prep then. try some heat. and turn down the throttle ramp and find the breaking point. either in radio or esc. then work it up
@@Dorkyand40 thanks I figured out it was my shocks it would not compress at all on the launch and got some new ones and works much better
What ecs do you recommend now? DRK still top dog or do you think there’s new ecs’s to recommend? Thanks in advance
R1 makes the power still
Maclan does a nice programmable run, but I also have good use on the crawler copperhead 10 running a mid high kv tp. The maclan drk just blew the tires off for complete first run at don garlits drag museum. No prep to road or tires, and tires were new proline belted. Need to condition a bit, and possibly run on concrete for burnouts. The old prep was still there, but slick as snot.
I bought a dr10 used I’m tryna build a grudge car I’m running a 3s battery on the stock motor what motor do you recommend for my to use for no prep drag racing on a 3s battery ?
would always recommend an r1 or r1 volta 4pole.
@@Dorkyand40 I ended up going with a fantom icon 3.0t v2 I got a deal on it what’s yours options on the fantom icon 3.0t v2 and what’s a good esc that budget friendly?
@@Dorkyand40 ?
2.15 @68 mph currently with an dr10m .
Spektrum dx4s
Maclan 160rs
Maclan 3.5 drkv2 (w/r1 rotor)
R1 10k 150c
Proline supra
Sweep red dot
Drc hd wide wheels
2630g ;) .
San-what ?
as long as that drk holds right
I thought that r1 battery wasnt approved by roar still.
Roar matters?
@@murrijuana2842 That's one of the rules. Trust me I'm with it just being a hard case.
its debateable with the new peeps in charge but we shall see
10k r1 batt been roar approved for MONTHS.
Dude im running 2.1s with my real street with nb4
Make a video of the setup snd how you run it. Make a few videos. Lmk snd I’ll link them to help everyone out.
Dragworx red dots
Never ran em so don’t like to comment on products I have no experience with.
D works reds are STELLAR
R1 promotion
For sure. It’s all I ever used. It wouldn’t be fair to tell people to go and buy stuff I’ve never personally ran or couldn’t help them with now would it?
How bout the drk 6600?
Sorry but Voodoo's are not the Top Choice for Real Street it's Drag Worx or Cyrul for Real Street.
Good to have choices. And why are you sorry? I only like to comment on what I’ve used since that is the fairest way to provide information. The more people who contribute like yourself then the better we all are. Thanks for joining in brother
@@Dorkyand40 I know you're not into no prep as much as because it died out in your location you need to push some of your buddies to get into Real Street it's so much fun. I have Ran the Drag worx and Cryul and Sweeps and all 3 are doing much better than the new Voodoo's. With Real Street you need a Wide Tire contact patch because you're not using any Prep on the tires and the tire is having to do all the work so you need as much tire on the ground as you can get.
Son. Lord knows I’ve tried. Can’t get nobody to budge lol. It’s all good. I’m having so much fun doing various carpet indoor things. It’s the future of rc racing here in the USA so I’ll do what I can to help with that and keep following drag and just see what happens.
D works on widez
Cyrul white on widez
Sweep reds on widez
So if that person doesn’t have $500 to spend on the chassis? What do you recommend to the average joe just getting their feet wet?
Whatever they have coach. As I said if they want to progress they need a better chassis. The emails and messages I get daily are asking and it seems a whole new crowd is emerging. Outside of that I did pretty good with my dr10 and the content is here for them as well.
See what your local club is running. See if they have an index class. We run a 2.5 index class and that’s the most fun class and you can compete with whatever.
True. Don’t spend more then you want or must.
Dr10m kit @ 300$ is stellar for a " NON OUTLAW" based real street car
Dr10 rtr. It's the lightest of the rtr class released, and surprisingly nimble for a tub. I've got carbon slash, carbon associated 5 star breakout, rtr slash I'm working now, rustler I converted and dr10 rtr. My fastest run is the dr10, completely dry tire, no prep at 2.63 running a 4400kv tp and mamba monster on 2s hitting 56 at the end. Proline belted on beadlocks. If I prep tire with stickum, she'll do 1.5, around 70+, but that just feels like cheating. Dry tire makes you learn to drive, and helps you figure out what your ride needs and where. You can pick up dr10 rtr for 200 new, and 50$ used
And dude i run 40w rear 4lbs springs rear 90w front with 8lbs springs drc mavrick chassis 2.1 consistently one hot pass sub 2
Lots of ways to do it.
@@Dorkyand40 yes sir all in how you drive lol
@@wyldzsrcs195 that is true in real street. Actually have a chance to save it lol
@Dorkyand40 bro I watch you when I first got started in drag I do ot for fun I'm a sponsored driver for hobbywing mugen and Dialed-RC for off rode when we ain't traveling I drag race lol u have got me pointed in all the right directions I appreciate u bro but this real street class I got the geometry of the cars down to a T
@@wyldzsrcs195 apprecaite it man. Sounds like you’re doing great. Hope you can bring home some bacon or have some great times out there with the crews