This video was so helpful! I haven't been able to find a clear video describing the use of a rocker panel. I am also going to delete out the "always on" lights for the switches. No need to slow drain the battery. I am going to a fuse panel that I added for my Short Bus conversion ;). Thanks so much for posting this!!
I’ll do a rocker panel at some point so stay tuned. Problem is there isn’t a nice clean matching nav light rocker switch that I’ve found YET. Glad this video was helpful! Thanks for watching
Glad you’re finding my videos helpful! It certainly wouldn’t hurt to put silicone at least on the top side of the panel where water may run, but I haven’t and I haven’t had any issues on all the boats we’ve done…including a couple of our own boats!!
This accessory switch panel is 100% unrelated to anything with the outboard. A lot of boat manufacturers have their own wiring harnesses and use their own quick connects that likely won't match up with aftermarket options. That's why we typically just start over with all new electrical and switch panels for your 12v accessories.
Great videos. They are so helpful for those of us that need them. Where do you ground each individual component? Would a busbar be the easiest way to ground if you’re not using a wire harness?
Thanks so much, and thanks for watching! Yes, a ground buss bar would be the cleanest option and easiest to modify later. You could piggy back into the grounds associated with the switch panel with the grounds from your accessories, that would be totally fine too and is something I do often. There is a "piggyback space connector" that allows you to plug into the ground post on the panel and tie the ground wire from the panel back in.
Great video, you do an excellent job of explaining everything. Is there away to put the switch lights on a dimmer, instead of turning them off all together?
@tomspontoons thanks for the reply...Looking for a solution for my Avalon rocker switches that blind me at night...If you have any ideas, please let me know.
It would be an either/or situation. I prefer inline fuses because they're easy to get at, just remove the switch panel and they're right there connected to the switch/accessory that's not working. It seems like fuse blocks always end up in hard to reach places and it can be a hassle to figure out which fuse is popped. Just my personal preference, no wrong way to do it as long as there's a fuse or a breaker in line to protect the switch and electrical system!
One thing I’ve never liked about these switch panels is how they daisy chain all switch inputs off one wire between all the switches, effectively putting all the load on the one wire feeding the switches. I’ve always played it safe and pulled the jumpers off and ran designated runs for each device Incase I ever have more than one higher draw switches on.
I definitely understand that concern. Most of the boats I work on seem to have the same setup where one power wire jumps across all of the switches to supply them power. That daisy chain or piggy backing shouldn’t be impacted by any other switch before it having an issue because it’s a steady stream of power from the accessory wiring harness to each switch. The in-line fuses are something I will be doing for this style switch panel to make it an easy fix if something ever has an issue! Thanks for watching!
I haven’t had it in serious rain, but if it’s sealed up behind the dash it should be just fine. A bead of silicone when you install it won’t hurt to keep water out too.
That’s out if my wheelhouse as I’m just a Midwest freshwater guy. I’ve seen pontoons bottom coated when in saltwater to prevent corrosion of the toons. Also, Sharkhide makes products to protect aluminum in the salt so definitely give their products a look! Otherwise, I’d highly recommend reaching out to a pontoon dealer who sells boats regularly for saltwater use.
@@tomspontoons Giday thanks Tom, I just had a look , oh I wish I had some $$$$$ and unfortunately the shipping to Aussies is just too much. I'll have to find it somewhere else. Love the channel as u know, oh also I was watching another channel and their doing the fix Em up and letting injured Veterans use them, so good to see more people doing kind thoughtful things for our hero's. 🌈🇦🇺
I haven’t had any issues with any of this style panel that I’ve installed. We’re all freshwater here in Michigan though. As long as you coat your connections I think you’d be ok!
I'm wiring a 3 gang with the USB and voltage on the top. First switch is a flood light, second is 4 blue cabin lights and third will be used to switch on/off the USB/voltage. I cut the always on wire out and am running that red wire from the USB/volt to the ACC post on the 3rd switch. How does it get power? Does it need another dedicated battery wire too? Or is that one power wire coming off the middle post work to power every accessory? Thanks!
Always tricky without having the switch panel in my hand, but I'll do my best...you need to have power coming in to each of the switches, then the accessory out wire can go to a fuse and to each accessory. Usually these switches have the power in piggy backed across all of the switches, and it's common for that to start on the volt meter and USB stuff at the top. Around 4:10 in this video I show the power in and where that jumps across each switch, versus the accessory power out. Hope this helps!
Seems a whole lot of fuzes in random pain in the bum places to find and replace, wouldnt wiring all the positives to a 12 socket fuse box? That way all the fuses are in one easy to locate and service location?
I’ve been meaning to show a video using one of these panels with a fuse block like you’re talking about. Some folks love them, sometimes they have their own issues with corrosion and becoming a failure point. I have another video of an Amazon switch panel that has built in breakers…that’s my favorite style by far because it’s so clean and user friendly!
@tomspontoons it's obviously different to where your located to where I am here in Northern Ireland we have different things electrical wise. I am planning on using a Blue Sea Add a Battery Kit Plus thing so I can have a starter battery and a second battery to run everything else off, because the boat is parked up on my driveway it can be plugged into the garage to keep both batteries charged up so I've no worries for a day's fishing. We don't have pontoon type boats here I think our weather is to bad to have boats like that we need something with a deep v hull to cut through waves. I enjoyed the video buddy, it's good I'm thinking of when I re wire my boat this summer I want to future proof it so when i come to add things to the boat the cables i put in can support them.
@@DavidScobie You're 100% spot on. There are different ways to do each part depending if you're in freshwater vs. saltwater as well as the type of boat...and you're right just trying to do it once and get it right so that you're not chasing problems in the future. We always love when boaters outside of the pontoon world tune into the channel as a lot of the stuff we cover is applicable to any type of hull. Happy boating over in Ireland!!
I just inherited a 2000 suntracker party hut 30. It hasn't been run since 2018. I'm trying to get replacement canvas for it. Do you have any idea where I should look? Also can you recommend a place to get a manual for the mercruiser 3.0?
A local canvas and marine upholstery shop should be able to make you something to replace the old canvas no problem. I’m not a big I/O guy, but any Mercury and Mercruiser dealer should be able to get you a service manual for that motor. Even online marine parts stores might have it!
@@ChrisGriffiths-e1e I'm not sure that you can change this panel to work like you're looking for. Either would have to flip the switches upside down or maybe look to another panel.
I have a 1988 SeaRay I’m working on and would like to install one of those “quick connects”, what is the name so I can look it up? I’ve tried various searches and can’t find any blanks I can use.
Are you referring to the connectors that go onto each switch? Or the big white plug to quick connect the wiring from the main harness throughout the boat to the switch panel leads?
@@barddzen I just did a quick google search and found a kit. Go to www.CJponyparts.com and search: "Painless Performance Quick Connect Kit 12 Wire Plug". You can find the same kit on eBay too.
I suppose you could jump power from the on/off switch that powers the chargers and voltage gauge to power the switches. I’d recommend an inline fuse there though as that’s a lot of power potentially running through that one switch. That way you’d run power to that on/off switch at the top and it would power everything when on and keep anything from working when off. I’d probably go with a heavier duty battery on/off switch if your goal is to have control over your accessories. You could simply have it on the console for your accessories only versus having it in the rear stopping all power at the battery.
@@tomspontoons Thanks, I'm only using the switches for a horn (changing the first switch), then Nav lights and a Garmin Striker 4. I'm putting this switch on a Boston Whaler 13' sport.
@@frankieb3652 glad to help! I love when stuff on our channel reaches beyond just pontoon boats. Glad my content was helpful for your Whaler project too!
Typically we tie the anchor and front navigation lights into the same switch…all on or all off. Never hurts to have them all on, and rarely are toons moored where they’d want the anchor light only on. If that’s the case then definitely might want to have them each on their own switch or have a traditional rocker for that
This video was so helpful! I haven't been able to find a clear video describing the use of a rocker panel. I am also going to delete out the "always on" lights for the switches. No need to slow drain the battery. I am going to a fuse panel that I added for my Short Bus conversion ;). Thanks so much for posting this!!
I’ll do a rocker panel at some point so stay tuned. Problem is there isn’t a nice clean matching nav light rocker switch that I’ve found YET. Glad this video was helpful! Thanks for watching
Is there a need to put silicone behind switch panels to keep water out of the console? Your videos have been very helpful. Thank you.
Glad you’re finding my videos helpful! It certainly wouldn’t hurt to put silicone at least on the top side of the panel where water may run, but I haven’t and I haven’t had any issues on all the boats we’ve done…including a couple of our own boats!!
I have a question where did you find that Quick connect to run them rocker switchs I have a 2002 mercury I need that quick connect...
This accessory switch panel is 100% unrelated to anything with the outboard. A lot of boat manufacturers have their own wiring harnesses and use their own quick connects that likely won't match up with aftermarket options. That's why we typically just start over with all new electrical and switch panels for your 12v accessories.
Great videos. They are so helpful for those of us that need them. Where do you ground each individual component? Would a busbar be the easiest way to ground if you’re not using a wire harness?
Thanks so much, and thanks for watching! Yes, a ground buss bar would be the cleanest option and easiest to modify later. You could piggy back into the grounds associated with the switch panel with the grounds from your accessories, that would be totally fine too and is something I do often. There is a "piggyback space connector" that allows you to plug into the ground post on the panel and tie the ground wire from the panel back in.
Great video, you do an excellent job of explaining everything. Is there away to put the switch lights on a dimmer, instead of turning them off all together?
Thank you for watching. Happy to help. I’m sure there are some options for those switch lights. For now we’re keeping it simple!
@tomspontoons thanks for the reply...Looking for a solution for my Avalon rocker switches that blind me at night...If you have any ideas, please let me know.
So with the inline fuses, does this mean theres no need to run to a fuse box also? Say from switch to fuse block with a jumper?
It would be an either/or situation. I prefer inline fuses because they're easy to get at, just remove the switch panel and they're right there connected to the switch/accessory that's not working. It seems like fuse blocks always end up in hard to reach places and it can be a hassle to figure out which fuse is popped. Just my personal preference, no wrong way to do it as long as there's a fuse or a breaker in line to protect the switch and electrical system!
One thing I’ve never liked about these switch panels is how they daisy chain all switch inputs off one wire between all the switches, effectively putting all the load on the one wire feeding the switches. I’ve always played it safe and pulled the jumpers off and ran designated runs for each device Incase I ever have more than one higher draw switches on.
I definitely understand that concern. Most of the boats I work on seem to have the same setup where one power wire jumps across all of the switches to supply them power. That daisy chain or piggy backing shouldn’t be impacted by any other switch before it having an issue because it’s a steady stream of power from the accessory wiring harness to each switch. The in-line fuses are something I will be doing for this style switch panel to make it an easy fix if something ever has an issue!
Thanks for watching!
Hi, thanks for the vid. Is the panel waterproof (rain), based on your experience?
I haven’t had it in serious rain, but if it’s sealed up behind the dash it should be just fine. A bead of silicone when you install it won’t hurt to keep water out too.
Do you have any advice for maintenance on pontoons that will be used in saltwater? As far as the aluminum components.
That’s out if my wheelhouse as I’m just a Midwest freshwater guy. I’ve seen pontoons bottom coated when in saltwater to prevent corrosion of the toons. Also, Sharkhide makes products to protect aluminum in the salt so definitely give their products a look! Otherwise, I’d highly recommend reaching out to a pontoon dealer who sells boats regularly for saltwater use.
Is there a reason you ran a wire from the marine outlet back to the switch that is always in upside down?
What time stamp of the video are you referring to? If I remember right I think I was playing around with and exploring different options temporarily.
Got a recommendation for marine grade wire connectors?
Heat shrink butt splices are all I use. I will have kits for sale on my website soon with the most common connectors I use!
Giday Tom and crew, good vlog helps me heaps, where can I get the pontoon harness from please 🤙🇦🇺
That harness is from PontoonStuff.com and it’s probably the number one thing that saves me time when restoring boats!!
@@tomspontoons Giday thanks Tom, I just had a look , oh I wish I had some $$$$$ and unfortunately the shipping to Aussies is just too much. I'll have to find it somewhere else. Love the channel as u know, oh also I was watching another channel and their doing the fix Em up and letting injured Veterans use them, so good to see more people doing kind thoughtful things for our hero's. 🌈🇦🇺
Can I ask how your switch panel has held up? Looking at replacing my 99' Pursuit's outdated panel with this. Saltwater boat sitting in a slip.
I haven’t had any issues with any of this style panel that I’ve installed. We’re all freshwater here in Michigan though. As long as you coat your connections I think you’d be ok!
@@tomspontoons awesome, thanks a bunch for the quick response. Figure it’s worth a shot at that low price point.
@@WranglerRunner1 That's my thought. If it gets covered when sitting and you treat your connections with protection/grease then I think it'll last.
So up on for you the on panel
Wiring would stay the same, just the switch would be flipped.
I'm wiring a 3 gang with the USB and voltage on the top. First switch is a flood light, second is 4 blue cabin lights and third will be used to switch on/off the USB/voltage. I cut the always on wire out and am running that red wire from the USB/volt to the ACC post on the 3rd switch. How does it get power? Does it need another dedicated battery wire too? Or is that one power wire coming off the middle post work to power every accessory? Thanks!
Always tricky without having the switch panel in my hand, but I'll do my best...you need to have power coming in to each of the switches, then the accessory out wire can go to a fuse and to each accessory. Usually these switches have the power in piggy backed across all of the switches, and it's common for that to start on the volt meter and USB stuff at the top. Around 4:10 in this video I show the power in and where that jumps across each switch, versus the accessory power out. Hope this helps!
Seems a whole lot of fuzes in random pain in the bum places to find and replace, wouldnt wiring all the positives to a 12 socket fuse box? That way all the fuses are in one easy to locate and service location?
I’ve been meaning to show a video using one of these panels with a fuse block like you’re talking about. Some folks love them, sometimes they have their own issues with corrosion and becoming a failure point. I have another video of an Amazon switch panel that has built in breakers…that’s my favorite style by far because it’s so clean and user friendly!
@tomspontoons it's obviously different to where your located to where I am here in Northern Ireland we have different things electrical wise. I am planning on using a Blue Sea Add a Battery Kit Plus thing so I can have a starter battery and a second battery to run everything else off, because the boat is parked up on my driveway it can be plugged into the garage to keep both batteries charged up so I've no worries for a day's fishing.
We don't have pontoon type boats here I think our weather is to bad to have boats like that we need something with a deep v hull to cut through waves.
I enjoyed the video buddy, it's good I'm thinking of when I re wire my boat this summer I want to future proof it so when i come to add things to the boat the cables i put in can support them.
@@DavidScobie You're 100% spot on. There are different ways to do each part depending if you're in freshwater vs. saltwater as well as the type of boat...and you're right just trying to do it once and get it right so that you're not chasing problems in the future. We always love when boaters outside of the pontoon world tune into the channel as a lot of the stuff we cover is applicable to any type of hull. Happy boating over in Ireland!!
I just inherited a 2000 suntracker party hut 30. It hasn't been run since 2018. I'm trying to get replacement canvas for it. Do you have any idea where I should look? Also can you recommend a place to get a manual for the mercruiser 3.0?
I would try a dealership for both of those. Msybe they can point you in tge right direction
A local canvas and marine upholstery shop should be able to make you something to replace the old canvas no problem. I’m not a big I/O guy, but any Mercury and Mercruiser dealer should be able to get you a service manual for that motor. Even online marine parts stores might have it!
Got this panel my switch is off when down but want it off when it's up not down how do I do it please.
Which switch are you referring to? The switches can all be removed and flipped.
The same as in your video above. Haven't got blue switch on mine just got the rest
@@ChrisGriffiths-e1e I'm not sure that you can change this panel to work like you're looking for. Either would have to flip the switches upside down or maybe look to another panel.
So are these waterproof staying like this then
I have a 1988 SeaRay I’m working on and would like to install one of those “quick connects”, what is the name so I can look it up? I’ve tried various searches and can’t find any blanks I can use.
Are you referring to the connectors that go onto each switch? Or the big white plug to quick connect the wiring from the main harness throughout the boat to the switch panel leads?
@@tomspontoons the big white block
@@barddzen I just did a quick google search and found a kit. Go to www.CJponyparts.com and search: "Painless Performance Quick Connect Kit 12 Wire Plug". You can find the same kit on eBay too.
is there a way to use the switch to turn on and off the whole panel instead of just the lower lights?
I suppose you could jump power from the on/off switch that powers the chargers and voltage gauge to power the switches. I’d recommend an inline fuse there though as that’s a lot of power potentially running through that one switch. That way you’d run power to that on/off switch at the top and it would power everything when on and keep anything from working when off.
I’d probably go with a heavier duty battery on/off switch if your goal is to have control over your accessories. You could simply have it on the console for your accessories only versus having it in the rear stopping all power at the battery.
@@tomspontoons Thanks, I'm only using the switches for a horn (changing the first switch), then Nav lights and a Garmin Striker 4. I'm putting this switch on a Boston Whaler 13' sport.
Also, I have the 5 switch version so it should be a lesser load.
@@frankieb3652 glad to help! I love when stuff on our channel reaches beyond just pontoon boats. Glad my content was helpful for your Whaler project too!
What the empty connection on power save?
anchor light?
Typically we tie the anchor and front navigation lights into the same switch…all on or all off. Never hurts to have them all on, and rarely are toons moored where they’d want the anchor light only on. If that’s the case then definitely might want to have them each on their own switch or have a traditional rocker for that
Hay hay hay