Amazon Switch Panel - HOW TO WIRE INTO YOUR BOAT
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- We've done a similar video to this with a different switch panel. Here's another showing how simple it is to make those Amazon switch panels work with a new Pontoon Stuff wiring harness on your boat. I ALWAYS prefer to use the Pontoon Stuff switch panels because they're plug and play and look great, but they're not always available and I'm sure there are lots of folks out there who want a less expensive switch panel. These affordable panels have worked great for us too!
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Why not just add one little main switch in front of that switch panel?
You could absolutely do that, and I love that option especially if I need more switches for accessories!
I gonna do that.
Are all the Grounds shared to each other?
I have a similar setup but for my kayak. All my grounds have separate runs and power wires.
I want to simplify my setup. Thanks in advance.
Yes. On this panel you'd need to either run a ground buss bar connecting your accessory grounds to the buss bar, or piggy back the accessory grounds onto the grounds on each switch. A ground buss bar is probably easier and cleaner.
How could you wire the switch panel to a fuse block with relays so that a master switch (only power available when accessory ON) powers the other switches. I have the switch panel figured out, just trying to see how to join it to the fuse block/relay. My max amp draw on individual circuit is calculated at 26 amps (LED light bar). The other two circuits are less than 10 and less than 5 respectively.
I haven't attempted to tackle that yet. I would probably run the power through a larger capacity on/off switch with a breaker or fuse and heavier gauge wire (10awg) to the switch panel. I'd also make sure the switches on the panel can handle 26 amps (that must be a serious light bar!). I know they're not super heavy duty switches and a lot of similar panels run a 15 amp breaker at the most. If it's more than one light bar I'd break them into multiple switches to get that amp draw more manageable for each switch.
So what would I be doing wrong if there’s constant power to lights attached to the switch board and the switch doesn’t do anything to turn the lights on/ off?
Either a bad switch, or you hooked up your lights to the wrong male spade post. I'm assuming you're talking about the accessory lights you hooked to a switch, and not the switch indicator light itself.
Support for car?I want modified my old car😂like ac with switch..
I imagine this panel would work with any 12v DC electrical accessories!!
I just received this unit however I don’t have the two leads coming out to hook to the power. Do I have to add this or did I get an incomplete unit?
Every switch panel I've gotten from Amazon has had the power and ground leads off the switch to hook to. You may have received one missing parts. It seems like every time I order a panel from Amazon if there's a good amount of time between orders I end up getting something quite different from the same manufacturer, and even if I use the "order again" option.
The problem with those prewired gang switches is that they are all fed off one power source which has to be fuse protected, you lose that fuse u lose the entire panel.
Even factory switch panels are typically protected at the battery on the positive with a 20 amp breaker or fuse. The better option out there has breakers for each switch to help with that, but you’d still usually see a breaker at the battery for the main power.
I didn't realize that all my rockers and push breakers were on the way to fail. I bought the panel similar to the one in this video except I wanted the push reset breakers on mine. But it left questions on why it was hooked up boat with so many piggyback connectors. it was overwhelming, but once I started to remove the old breakers I could finally see a much simpler wiring method and now with this video that answered my questions on can I do this the way I want it set up and the answer was yes.;
Thank you for such an in depth view and explanation that didn't leave me with more questions than I started with!
You’re not alone! Looking at wiring under a console or on a switch panel can be super overwhelming, but once you take a step back and see where things are routed and how the switches and breakers work it’s not so bad. Thanks for watching, glad it helped!
Excellent tutoral. A question, you disconnected the positive leads to the "always on" LEDs on the rockers. Can you use the corresponding ground side to complete the circuit for each switch, rather than grouping all the ground wires together? That way if you ever need to make a wiring change, you wouldn't need to tear the ground bundle apart. In fact, it looks like you could just move all the jumpers over so there is only one black and one red jumper per switch, then just clip off the extra jumpers to get them out of the way.
Yes, those grounds could be used to tie in accessory grounds. As long as they make it back to the negative post on the battery some way then you're good to go. Not all of these switches have that option though...sometimes you'll even order one and something a little different will show up in the package!
Do you have fuse between switch and light?
Definitely should add a fuse between the switch and the accessories!! This is just the basics of getting the panel to work for most boating applications!
Great video! You addressed many of the questions I had, in a clear and concise way. Very knowledgeable. Thank you.
Great! Thanks for the feedback and for watching our channel!
If I’m pushing 19v to 12v lights is that bad? New to wiring don’t flame me.. lol
Definitely too high of voltage. Should see about 12.4V. Maybe 14.5 when running the motor
@@tomspontoons voltage regulator would work? I’m using a m18 battery kit to power some lights on a tuggy build.
@@mijomike3406 Ahhh, I haven't tried doing something like that before. I know guys who use 12V power tool batteries to power their duck blind lights and stuff. I haven't used a voltage regulator, but if it can reduce that voltage down closer to 14V then you'd be in a lot better shape. Obviously can't have the lights catching fire, but even having them wear out way faster than they should from the 19V is no good.
Where would my yellow wire go?
Yellow wire coming from the stereo?
Thank you, one thanks !! question, can I use one of the switches to power on all the lights and volt meter, lighter and USB?
I often do exactly that…make one of the switches power on the backlights, volt meter and accessory plugs
This video is definitely going to help my husband and I rewire our new to us pontoon. Why is it so difficult to find used fencing and gates? I realize that each pontoon is different, but gates shouldnt be hard to find. What do you do with the old fencing you remove?
Great! We've got lots of other how-to electrical videos on our channel, so surf around and you'll find more like this. The issue is that the boat manufacturers have made boats with certain railings and designs for only a year or two before changing things. Sometimes they only make a small number of boats with certain railings/seats, so finding a replacement part is impossible. I get asked all the time if I have "a back port corner railing section off a 1998 Manitou"....and unfortunately I have to explain that they're best chance would be to find a fully intact boat for that one part. They're just not out there! We usually sell used railing kits cheap and fast locally, or scrap them if they're in rough shape.
Great video, but I can't help but wonder why you got rid of the main connector and hardwired everything.
Just wanted to show it as simple as possible, expecially for folks who might be reusing their boats old electrical harness where there may not be a plug. It can absolutely be wired into the quick plug too.
@@tomspontoons Nice. I'm gonna be using one of these switches in my Silverado for all of the accessory lighting and my amp for the subwoofer, but the hardest part is keeping everything in a way that if I go to trade the truck in or sell it I can return EVERYTHING back to completely stock with no cuts in my factory harness what so ever. I even have my REM hooked up to a toggle so that I didn't have to splice into an accessory wire.
@@averagejoe6150 I haven't tackled something like that on a vehicle before, but I would think that if you supply power to those accessories independent from the truck's harness it should be possible...just like you're creating a completely separate electrical wiring system that shares the single battery for charging/powering purposes.
@tomspontoons That's basically how I'm gonna be running it. I'm installing a second battery here soon with a battery isolation switch and running all accessories off of the second battery, gonna run a bus bar inside an encapsulated mount inside the cab to run everything directly from it, only thing I'm gonna do to the stock system is upgrade to 0 gauge wiring, doing the big 3 as people like to call it. I may end up needing a high output alternator though, we'll see how the stock one handles everything for now.
@@averagejoe6150 Yep, that's what my biggest fear would be...getting enough charging to keep up with that much output. Best of luck with getting it set up and installed!
I like your wiring ideas on having mostly all on independently controlled, nice video. Thanks.
Thanks! I like to have each item on its own power source. Less potential failures!!
A USB plug also has a "phantom " load even if nothing is plugged into it and will drain the battery. Any USB sockets should be on their own switch.
100% agree! They usually have a little LED that’s lit up too from the factory. I switch the wiring over on all of them to be powered by a switch!!
That was really good. I'm installing the same setup in my Chevy blazer , but just rocker panels. I don't like those running LED lights on all the time either. Thanks, I am going to do this.
Awesome, glad this video was helpful for your Blazer too! Thanks for commenting and sharing that.
So confused
We’ve got some other videos on these Amazon switch panels in case yours isn’t exactly like this one!
Best explained AND SHOWN video yet. Thanks tom. I just have a question i have just a usb outlet version that has the main live and neutral line in then out to the switches but its rated at 5v 4.8amp would this blow anything that i put in it like my phone ? As my phone uses 5v 1.5amp ? Thanks
Thanks for watching! That’s a great question. Do you know if the 4.8 amps split between the two USB plug ins? I’ve definitely seen plenty of 2.5 amp chargers for phones and such. I will see if I can do some research and figure this one out.
Thank you so much for this video. I tweaked it a bit since mine is similar but different. Your instructions were invaluable.
I have several different but similar switch panels on stock right now…they all end up wiring in the same or similar. Glad the video helped you out!!
Could you use one of the switches as you main "power connect" to enable the power to the system. In other words , in stead of having a remote power switch that gives power to the boat . Could you just route the main power to a switch to power up the boat though the switch panel?
I wouldn’t recommend that as the switches aren’t designed to carry that much load individually. I try to keep items that are up to 10 amps draw on each switch with a fuse running out to each accessory.
Excellent video. Do you by chance have one regarding hooking up to separate motor trim switches?
I do not. You'd need a momentary up/down toggle switch and to tie into your motor's ignition harness...usually green, blue, and red wires that are run for trim on most motors. Generally, green is down, blue is up, red is power.
Great video! Just curious, the components being controlled would still need a relay for high amp draw things, correct? I’ll be using this type of panel in an off-road rig and powering my cooling fan through it. The “power” wire on the switch would simply be the trigger wire for the relay right?
Correct, I have some other switch panel videos showing tying in an in-line fuse to each accessory. This was aimed at being a super simple starting point for getting going with these switch panels.
@@tomspontoons wonderful, thank you!
@@lelandglisson3392 happy to help!
You the man... i was thinking about this exact gang switch without 12v. Thanks for passing on some wisdom!
Happy to help. Thanks for watching!
Do you have a link to the switch panel that you used? I don't see it in your Amazon links
Not sure if this is the EXACT same one as there are a ton of different brands on Amazon, but this is very similar:
www.amazon.com/FXC-Waterproof-Aluminum-Vehicles-KG0149-5B/dp/B081KZKGP5/ref=sr_1_4?crid=HUZQFJJHW39P&keywords=marine%2Bswitch%2Bpanel&qid=1693321620&sprefix=marine%2Bswitch%2Bpanel%2Caps%2C127&sr=8-4&th=1
Have you considered using the first switch to power the led lights and voltmeter / usb / cig lighter? Basically one switch to connect / disconnect the rest.
I use the last switch in this video to power the chargers and volt meter. I would be hesitant to use one of these switches to carry the load for powering the rest of the switches/accessories, as that could be a lot of power forced to run through one switch if all other accessories were being used simultaneously.
If you have a battery switch on the battery mains, it makes sense to not tie up a switch location to power the LED's and whantnot.
Everyone has their favorite battery switch configurations. I love having the switch panel set up so that when all the switches are off and unlighted then we know there’s not draw from accessories. Quick and easy way to keep from leaving anything turned on.
Great video Tom. Thank you for sharing your methods and sources!
Happy to do so. And thank you for watching and commenting!!
Has this caught on fire yet ?
Heavens no! This is just a quick install video for people to see how the panel works. We have others where we add fuses to each accessory item, etc.
Thanks for all these videos . I am redoing my pontoon this fall but the electrical work makes me nervous
Thanks for watching!! Hopefully by the time you’re tackling your project we’ll have another 50 videos with more helpful tips! Electrical and motor components are intimidating, but we’re trying to break them down so that everyone can tackle them with confidence. Stay tuned!
No fuses on any of these circuits? Bypassing the quick disconnect plug on the harness makes for a messy or painful electrical system servicing for other technicians in the future.
Totally see where you’re coming from!! I’ll always advocate for a higher end fuse panel with fuses built in, but this video is for those folks out there who opt for the less expensive route. There is a resettable fuse near the battery to prevent system issues.
@@tomspontoons do you have a video showing how to wire in circuit protection to the individual switches? I want to use this style panel and rocker panels and wire in the circuit protection. I can’t order any of the rocker panels with circuit protection built in due to space unless I want to spend 200-300 bucks so I need to make my own. Hope that made sense any help appreciated.
@@battlemasterszone1750 Check out this other switch panel video I did. I run inline fuses to each accessory. I will be doing one where we run a fuse block in the near future too so that folks can see the different options!
ua-cam.com/video/bycK-FVW1g8/v-deo.html
If you use the same thickness wire on your branch circuits, a single inline blade fuse would do it. The downside being that if your radio blew a fuse, you lose running lights and bilge pump - which might not be so great :D
_ive making my own on alumium angle but adding fuses they would just go on each pig tail or on positive wire going to battery?_
I’d usually recommend a fuse for each accessory, and it’s not a bad idea to have a larger (20amp) resettable fuse at the batter too!
@@tomspontoons _ok thanks_
Are the extra ports just more positive ports for each switch? 9:30
If you go back to 3:55 it shows those posts had a power wire run to them from the factory that I unhooked. They were what lights the bottom of the switches all the time (on or off).
If I match this with new wiring harness, would that eliminate the fuse box? thx
No, this switch panel would need a fuse/breaker panel or inline fuses coming off of each switch.
Thanks for this video, I have the same switch pad and will do the wire swap also. I was going to put my horn on a push button but might order the rocker switch.
If you have a free switch I recommend the rocker, it’s on Amazon too. Nothing wrong with a push button too!
Morning Tom, I’ve the same breaker panel. But I’ve a yellow neg wire off the back marked “lower dash light” and a blue pos wire marked “lower dash light”. Can I tie these into the main pos and neg wires from the PS wire harness? Also my panel has three 15A inline fuses behind each of the chargers and bolt meter. I assume I connect the PS pos wire directly to these. Cheers my friend and thanks once again!!!
I swear I could do a new video covering these switch panels monthly because of how many times they change the dang things! I'm guessing those yellow and blue wires are just feeding the obnoxious lights that stay on all the time on the bottoms of the switches...which in that case I would just not hook them up at all, or I'd wire them to a main on/off switch to only have on when I want them on. Yes, you can plug the PS harness into the rest as those fuses or breakers will provide a disconnect to the accessories/switches to prevent damage.
@@tomspontoons lol..I know eh! It’s like every vid I watch of you doing up a panel, they all look similar but there’s always a little change they’ve made that throws me for a loop. So that brings me to a couple of questions. You mention the main on/off switch…would that be like your nav light switch? Which would make sense to me as you only have the nav lights on when it’s dark out, but just want to be sure first. And secondly, looking at the back of that panel, those three in-line fuses which are directly behind the usb and 12V chargers and the battery voltage meter, do look as though they’re piggy backed to the rest of the switches . And yes, I did think, like you mentioned, that they protect the appliances wired to those switches, but, and correct me if I’m wrong, those fuses are all 15 amp fuses, which in my way of thinking maybe too large of an amperage for some of the items they control, or am I out to lunch on this? And thirdly and lastly…I hope! I’m running a separate fuse panel inside the console, just below the switch panel, so I can tie in the small (18, 20) gauge wires. I’m piggy backing, from the main pos and neg on the back of the Amazon switch panel, and feeding out to this separate fuse panel. So just wanted to run this by you to make sure I’m on the right track. Been doing a lot of thinking over this and in my mind it makes sense, then again, a lot of stupid things made sense at the time!! 😳😬🙄
Anyways Tom, cheers pal and thanks once again. You’ve been, as always, a wealth of knowledge and I’ld even go as far as to say an inspiration! And I am prolly safe in saying, speaking on behalf of the thousands of us out there who have always wanted to tackle an electrical birds nest or an even bigger undertaking such as overhauling a pontoon, but were gobsmacked as to where to even start, that without your quick responses, your feed back and your great videos, would never have even thought all of this could’ve been possible!! Cheers my friend….
@@davidcobb4527 The Nav Light switch would be the perfect one to tie into as the on/off switch for those bottom lights on the switches.
Typically they piggy back (aka daisy chain) power across all of the breakers, then jump power from the breaker to the switch. Another goofy thing about those minor changes to the panels is that some have different amp breakers while some are all 15 amp. I've seen them where they are labeled as 5, 10, and 15 amps. Yes, 15 amps would be high for a couple LEDs, so you could add in a fuse block to offer a lighter amp fuse/breaker for protection. If your panel is all 15 amp breakers then you're going to be best off using a fuse block in between the panel and accessories out. Be careful running 20 gauge to anything that's a significant length of wire. I would stick to 18 and 16 for running power out to lights and accessories.
Glad to help! We'll keep trying to make more and more helpful and fun videos. Hoping that the channel continues to grow over the next few years so we can dedicate more time to more in-depth and educational stuff as well as some fun big projects where viewers get to follow along with the details. Right now we just don't have time working on customers' boats to pay the bills to video EVERY detail like I wish we could!
👍🏼 yeah every wire I run is minimum 16G. But some coming out the back of gauges are super small so assume they’re 18 or 20. Great! Thanks again Tom. Take care…prolly be chatting again, I’m sure! 😄👍🏼
Do you need to use a circuit breaker with this set up?
There should be at least one fuse or breaker with any panel. A fuse block is super easy to use here too. We will show that method in the near future too!
What if you move the main power source wire one pin down on the accessory pin ?
That's a good question, I didn't try that. If I do another of these panels on a boat I'll report back.
Damn. That's a good idea, can't see how that wouldn't work
Best video
I’ve seen on this
Nice job man
Thanks for the kind words. And thanks for watching!!!
4 rocker panels switch marine Amazon how to wire it up
Haven’t done one of those yet, but should follow similar steps. If I get the chance I’ll definitely show how to wire one in!!
Forgot I made this video a while back:
ua-cam.com/video/KJxsb4H5I_0/v-deo.html&si=EnSIkaIECMiOmarE
Thank You so much Tom, such a great video. You really deserved a subscribed and a thumps up!
Why thank you!!
After watching your video, it really make me feel so confident to work on my boat. Such a great video!
@@rickyho7700 that’s truly the best feedback I could hope to receive about my channel! Thank you.
What size fuse do you use for the panel or do you put a fuse on each individual line
I run a fuse on each accessory out wire. Usually 5amp. One of these days I’ll do a video tying it into a fuse block too.
@@tomspontoons Fuse should be before not after the switch. These cheap Amazon/eBay/Chinese switch panels are everywhere now and the way they have the wires jumped together on the back is a recipe for disaster, especially when you get up into the larger multi-switch panels (5+ switches). If you have 6x switches pulling up tp 5amp ea and they're all turned on at the same time you are right on the edge of the capability of the wire used ex-factory. Make 2x of those circuits 10amp and you have just taken yourself into the danger zone of melted insulation and fire behind the switch panel.
@@15uzu I can definitely see the reasoning behind that. Luckily Pontoon Stuff has their switch panels back in stock so I can go back to ordering those which are plug and pay and a better all around design!
I bought a couple of panels very similar to those, one 4 gang and one 3 gang panel, with the USB, 12v cigarette lighter type outlet, and voltmeter sockets also. But I removed all the wiring and ran each switch on its own circuit so I didn’t have to worry about overloading one circuit with too much stuff on it.
Also I removed a couple of the USB and voltmeter socket accessories and replaced them with a hole plug cover designed to fit the 30mm round openings. I got some of the 19mm locking push button switches and they will fit into the 30mm plug covers if you drill a 3/4” hole. They just barely fit, and getting the nut screwed onto them is a tedious job, but they do fit and it works well. I wired the panel so that one of these push buttons is used solely for turning on “dash lights” which is the bottom LED on the rocker switches, and the ring LED on the push buttons. Each of the square shaped LEDs on top of the rocker switches I wired to be on when the switch itself is on. So using the 30mm hole plug covers I was able to add additional switches to the panel without taking up more space. Also bought an Oznium mini LED dimmer knob for one plug cover and installed it to add a dimming effect for my interior lights. Haven’t hooked it up yet but it is on the panel. All fits well.
The 12v socket and USB ports that I removed, I bought additional bezels and reused them below the switch panel. I did this because I did not want power cords hanging down from above the rocker switches, in front of the switches. So I created a clean switch panel with switches, buttons, and a knob, and kept the outlets for cords in use but more conveniently located.
WELL DONE!! You took a simple and cost effective switch panel and made it work far beyond what it was even designed to do. I'm very impressed! And yes, I do usually recommend running this with inline fuses or to a fuse panel. Definitely can't hurt to do so!
Come on A Hole! Just make a SIMPLE video with ZERO custom mods for regular people.
Not trying to let anyone down over here!! I record my videos while working on boats for my customers so I’m showing stuff the way I install it. If it needs mods out of the box I have to make them.
@@tomspontoons ok, fair enough, I understand... I guess I'm the A Hole!
@@johnnhoj15 haha! I appreciate all sorts of constructive criticism…except for name calling!! 🤣
Great video. This will be helpful as Im close to getting the wiring on my whaler done.
Great!! Hope it helps. Best of luck on your project!
my plan with the 'fripperies + gimmicks' on that fuse panel is to fit a switch and / or relay in series with the ground, - a powered on relay can be arranged so that the n/o contacts provide ground, - basically creating an 'ignition' line for when the power system is having a good time, - solar panels are generating plenty, wind is abundant ...water turbine is giving plenty......
Definitely lots of ways to do it and plenty of options for switch panels out there too!! Thanks for watching!