Even though I sometimes, may know what this man is showing, I still like to watch the way he shows what he knows...His explanations are simple, not over anybodies heads and I use his methods and techniques to explain to others wanting to know and work the trades as a part time HVAC instructor....He is an " Excellent Instructor ", and it's well worth the time to watch and learn folks.
Hey, just a quick note to thank you for your videos. Overtime I have learned a lot about furnaces. We have contractors come and do work on commercial roof top units and it sure helps to have some basic knowledge about how furnaces work, etc.
I am now light-blind from performing the flashlight test & can no longer see the rest of my project, I dont even know if these words are making it to the screen, thanks man..
Hi - hope you are still responding to questions on this video - I have a back-up propane heater in my basement to serve if the electricity goes out in my rural area in winter. Winter has arrived, and I am trying to get it ready for the season. My pilot orifice thingy is an assembly that houses the thermopile, thermocoupler, pilot light and sparker/starter. The pilot light orifice is a "jet" - rather than a tiny hole or two, it has something in it that looks like a cross between a valve stem on a tire and a tiny slot-design screw - it sits in the centre of the orifice and controls the propane flow. Mine I fear is clogged - and here is what I have tried: boiling in hi-acid vinegar, soaking in Brake parts cleaner fluid, penetrating oil, forced compressed air.. I can blow through it for a moment after each procedure, but it quickly closes and by the time I have it re-installed, it impedes the gas flow to the point where the pilot will NEVER light. The propane flow is good - take this "jet orifice" off and the gas flows through the approaching line just fine. The assembly is for an 8 yr old Drolet GTX-I Freestanding Direct Vent Gas Stove. Is it heat-controlled? If so, how can I get it hot if it won't light? Is there a tiny spring inside or something? Does the centre jet-thing normally "float" so the gas flows around it? A replacement will cost < $200 Canadian. Any suggestions?
I was on one the other day, smart valve with a HSI pilot when it went to light the pilot it would light spit and spudder then go back out. I blew through the pilot tube suck through the tube it seemed to be clear. I pulled it off and found some very small flakes in it. They were small enough not to plug the orifice but big enough to cause a problem. Thanks for the videos
I'm in the process of repairing my pilot for a burner used for a pizza oven. It's operates under high temp. The pilot assembly has an injector (orifice), a pilot olive that connects to the 6mm pilot tub and then a nut. Is there a different way of implementing this assembly with less components? The olive I have a hard time inserting on the pilot tube.
I am working on a 1986 camper heater - Hydro Flame Corp. It is a 12000 BTU heater, I have verified all the controls, ignitor, etc and can smell gas coming out of the valve when I have the pilot assembly removed. It seems like I am not getting enough gas for the verified spark to light the pilot gas. Orifice seemed to be completely clogged, but I got it flowing again. Orifice hole seems smaller than .016" diameter. On the tag it states the orifice injector is 59, which I believe corresponds to a .049" diameter. Is that the main burner orifice size and not the pilot orifice? How large would the pilot orifice likely be? I cannot find a replacement part. thanks for any help
The tag number is for main burner. The pilot orifice is much smaller. If the spark is working, and the gas does flow, the pilot is probably dirty. I don't consider pilot orifices cleanable. Replacement is the only option. Most of the camper heaters used general replacement orifices. If you want to send me a pic of the orifice, I will try to find a replacement. Send to Grayfurnaceman@gmail.com GFM
Have you ever came across a lear siegler gas boiler ? Made specifically for mobile homes ? I came across one prob about 49 years old having a issue keeping it lit the pilot will light blue but won't hold when I switch the gas valve knob to on it had be a thermocouple on it was thinking to try to give it a good cleaning the whole assembly I contacted the comp that bought out lear siegler they said a tech would get back to me and it's been days. And I'm a tech but this thing is hard to find d parts from googling. Any help would be appreciated
Easier to replace the orifices, but if you're a person who like to tinker and fix things....... then a carberator cleaning kit (like Bosch) has the right tools that will help you take care of those orifices!!!
I think all of your videos are great. Replacement pilots are sent with natural gas orifices in them. I searched for the new code of a replacement orifice for LP for a 32-year-old Carrier model but the 'replacement' orifice is a quarter inch shorter (no knurled end) plus I have no way to gauge if the 0.011 drill size for LP is the same on the supposed LP aftermarket. Any help here would be fantastic and if you can do a video on the absolute nightmare of obsolete parts and their five different name changes just to find a match would be entertaining.
Thanks for your great videos. I have a 1960's era propane furnace in a mobile home that I would like to keep running. It is having delayed ignition with the flame sometimes coming 12 inches out of the furnace. The pilot assembly is old and beat up. The repairman I used last winter could only get the pilot flame to about a 1.5 inch yellow flame. He did not say anything about cleaning or replacing the orifice (not going back to him). Anyhow, I will replace the whole assembly if i can. I don't think I can find a 1960 Coleman pilot assembly (it also has a Rheem symbol on the motor). Can I replace it with another manufacturer assembly?
I have been going to different Furnace Supply stores taking them my Gas Furnace Standing Pilot Orfice with 2 holes asking for a replacement. They tell me they need a Brand&Serial number from my furnace. My furnance is missing all tags so I have no way of knowing the maker etc. Please help.
Hello, I have a 9500 BTU on one of my four burners at home and I would like to upgrade it to around 12000 because it really can't sear well (I do steaks and stir fries...) Is that a good level of heat?
The problem here is you will need a burner that is the correct size. You can drill out the gas orifice, but the air fuel mix will be wrong and it will produce CO gas. GFM
They can be cleaned with a broach or a fine drill bit. Just don’t make the hole larger. I used to even blow them clean with my breath or a aspirator bulb.
Please help me ...I just replaced an orrifice with a new one and after 2 days of working the flame got a lot larger ......maybe i didnt screw it much or maybe i overtightened it ? i dont know please help me and thank you so much for your videos
Once after clean and re-assemble of standing pilot ass'y to pilot tube, I had a small leak (very small flame coming out rear side of threaded connection) where pilot tube connected to pilot ass'y (had done a few others with no leak however). What would be the best way to leak test that connection BEFORE re-installing gas burner ass'y and lighting pilot, so as to avoid having to pull burner ass'y again after finding a tiny leak. Possible to connect can of air to threaded pilot ass'y or something like that? Connect it to gas valve and light the pilot (before reinstalling burner ass'y & gas valve?
+JustPlumDucky What I do is put a very small amount of pipe dope on the ferrel mating surfaces. You can also put it on the threads for lubrication (the threads do not seal). Hope this helps. GFM
+JustPlumDucky One final question please... I realize that the proper degree of tightness is achieved only with experience, no doubt, but wondering if there is any recommended method, such as inch-lbs. or number of turns to achieve leak-free tightness. Maybe there isn't any such thing as an inch-lb. open-end torgue wrench, at all, or for such small fittings, but just trying to satisfy my OCD since being spooked by my last experience with this :). Actually didn't get the tiny leak/flame until the 250 lb. LP tank guage dropped down to approximately 5%. Maybe I just had a bad day and was afraid of "too tight" on that occasion. Maybe better to go tighter in the future, then adjust if necessary. However, will be doing the pipe dope thing, thx much for that!
+JustPlumDucky Soon as I read my comment about a can of air to leak test it, I realized that would be too much pressure! (can't have you thinking I didn't realize that immediately after :)
I got a gas heater that runs off natural gas or propane and the pilot orifice for the propane is tiny, blows it out when the gas kicks on sense it was brand new, put the natural gas one in there but it let's wat to much outmakes the pilot huge when it kicks on, not really sure what to do with it, anyone have any ideas?
@@grayfurnaceman yes that's what was happening, the flame was just a tiny little bud barely big enough to warm the thermocouple, I actually took it apart again and blew it out and poked a tiny sewing needle through it and tried putting the smaller one back in there, and it seems fine now. May have just been something in there from machining or who knows, I appreciate you replying though
My 30 year old RV water heater pilot assembly is missing the flame diffuser. The pilot blows out two to three times a month. If a diffuser would bend the flame toward the thermocouple tube, where can I get a flame diffuser? Any help would be appreciated.
@@grayfurnaceman it’s a metal thing resembling an elbow. No, I have not replaced the thermocouple. I’d like to find where the failure is happening before replacing a part or assembly. I’ve been repairing all kinds of devices since 1955, so I diagnose symptoms clear down the cause of failure before buying a part. I do not mean to insult you with my answer. Ple
@@shermananderson700 None taken. The thermocouple can be tested by first determining if the pilot flame covers the thermocouple about 3/8 inch. Then you can check pilot safety dropout by blowing out the pilot and waiting for the safety dropout. If it drops out within 20 seconds, the thermocouple is suspect. GFM
good video. Just a gas valve question, I bumped into this Robert shaw gas valve the other day7000BDER, it has this small two prong electrical connection on the side...what is it? it says 24V... It can be seen on a google search under the images using that model number...
You see, this was on an old Modine unit heater in a garage. It says 24VAC so I'm thinking its a load not a switch, so if I jump it out, I'll effectively burn something out, where as if its a switch, Ill be temporarily enabling and closing a simple switch. Thats why I need to" KNOW", ... not guess, what it is. If you don't know for sure, say so. Did you look at the picture?
Dam hvac8;75859:7: learn, to use punctuation, marks and, learn some, dam “MANNERS” ... !! ! !!! The Grayfurnace gentleman merely provided you with his best guess according to the info he was given. Wether you agree, disagree, like it, hate it or whatever, you are to take the advice as is and move along. If you don’t feel the opinion is up to par then ask someone else. Or do your own dam research. Or better yet, consider paying someone. Either way, don’t kick a gift horse in the mouth. Considering what you paid to Mr. Grayfurnace... for the consultation and his time, I’d say you got a great deal.
I got a new furnace 3 yrs ago. It's a Coleman Furnace Model DGAH077BBSB. In the beginning of the first 2 winters it would not heat up and I get the repairmen here. twice already the problem is spider egg sacks blocking the burner orifice costing me just over $100 in repairs. How can I prevent this or fix this myself?? Can anyone help me?? Here'e a link to the furnace manual: www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/user-manuals/DGAH077BBSB-COLEMAN-FURNACE-manual
Even though I sometimes, may know what this man is showing, I still like to watch the way he shows what he knows...His explanations are simple, not over anybodies heads and I use his methods and techniques to explain to others wanting to know and work the trades as a part time HVAC instructor....He is an " Excellent Instructor ", and it's well worth the time to watch and learn folks.
Just wanted to say thanks, the information never gets old got my fireplace running fine thanks again!
Hey, just a quick note to thank you for your videos. Overtime I have learned a lot about furnaces. We have contractors come and do work on commercial roof top units and it sure helps to have some basic knowledge about how furnaces work, etc.
Welcome
GFM
I am now light-blind from performing the flashlight test & can no longer see the rest of my project, I dont even know if these words are making it to the screen, thanks man..
They definitely plug easily. Thanks for the comment.
GFM
Hi - hope you are still responding to questions on this video - I have a back-up propane heater in my basement to serve if the electricity goes out in my rural area in winter. Winter has arrived, and I am trying to get it ready for the season. My pilot orifice thingy is an assembly that houses the thermopile, thermocoupler, pilot light and sparker/starter. The pilot light orifice is a "jet" - rather than a tiny hole or two, it has something in it that looks like a cross between a valve stem on a tire and a tiny slot-design screw - it sits in the centre of the orifice and controls the propane flow. Mine I fear is clogged - and here is what I have tried: boiling in hi-acid vinegar, soaking in Brake parts cleaner fluid, penetrating oil, forced compressed air.. I can blow through it for a moment after each procedure, but it quickly closes and by the time I have it re-installed, it impedes the gas flow to the point where the pilot will NEVER light. The propane flow is good - take this "jet orifice" off and the gas flows through the approaching line just fine. The assembly is for an 8 yr old Drolet GTX-I Freestanding Direct Vent Gas Stove. Is it heat-controlled? If so, how can I get it hot if it won't light? Is there a tiny spring inside or something? Does the centre jet-thing normally "float" so the gas flows around it? A replacement will cost < $200 Canadian. Any suggestions?
I was on one the other day, smart valve with a HSI pilot when it went to light the pilot it would light spit and spudder then go back out. I blew through the pilot tube suck through the tube it seemed to be clear. I pulled it off and found some very small flakes in it. They were small enough not to plug the orifice but big enough to cause a problem. Thanks for the videos
I'm in the process of repairing my pilot for a burner used for a pizza oven. It's operates under high temp. The pilot assembly has an injector (orifice), a pilot olive that connects to the 6mm pilot tub and then a nut. Is there a different way of implementing this assembly with less components? The olive I have a hard time inserting on the pilot tube.
If the pilot safety is a separate component, you can replace the entire assembly with a combination gas valve.
GFM
I am working on a 1986 camper heater - Hydro Flame Corp. It is a 12000 BTU heater, I have verified all the controls, ignitor, etc and can smell gas coming out of the valve when I have the pilot assembly removed. It seems like I am not getting enough gas for the verified spark to light the pilot gas. Orifice seemed to be completely clogged, but I got it flowing again. Orifice hole seems smaller than .016" diameter. On the tag it states the orifice injector is 59, which I believe corresponds to a .049" diameter. Is that the main burner orifice size and not the pilot orifice? How large would the pilot orifice likely be? I cannot find a replacement part. thanks for any help
The tag number is for main burner. The pilot orifice is much smaller.
If the spark is working, and the gas does flow, the pilot is probably dirty. I don't consider pilot orifices cleanable. Replacement is the only option.
Most of the camper heaters used general replacement orifices.
If you want to send me a pic of the orifice, I will try to find a replacement. Send to Grayfurnaceman@gmail.com
GFM
I was able to fix my gas logs after watching your video. Thanks so much
Welcome
GFM
Found it - what a tiny part! Thank you for helping me fix! See you soon.
Where did you find it
Thanks for the explanation. Helpful
I appreciate the added info. I’ll go to work on it soon.
Thank you sir! Ive been running around trying to figure out where the in line pilot orifice was for the type shown at 1:35.
Great job using a flashlight to show orifice
Have you ever came across a lear siegler gas boiler ? Made specifically for mobile homes ? I came across one prob about 49 years old having a issue keeping it lit the pilot will light blue but won't hold when I switch the gas valve knob to on it had be a thermocouple on it was thinking to try to give it a good cleaning the whole assembly I contacted the comp that bought out lear siegler they said a tech would get back to me and it's been days. And I'm a tech but this thing is hard to find d parts from googling. Any help would be appreciated
Works well Great product, worth the money
Took awhile to find the video I needed. Thank you.
Thank you
Easier to replace the orifices, but if you're a person who like to tinker and fix things....... then a carberator cleaning kit (like Bosch) has the right tools that will help you take care of those orifices!!!
I think all of your videos are great. Replacement pilots are sent with natural gas orifices in them. I searched for the new code of a replacement orifice for LP for a 32-year-old Carrier model but the 'replacement' orifice is a quarter inch shorter (no knurled end) plus I have no way to gauge if the 0.011 drill size for LP is the same on the supposed LP aftermarket. Any help here would be fantastic and if you can do a video on the absolute nightmare of obsolete parts and their five different name changes just to find a match would be entertaining.
Thanks for your great videos. I have a 1960's era propane furnace in a mobile home that I would like to keep running. It is having delayed ignition with the flame sometimes coming 12 inches out of the furnace. The pilot assembly is old and beat up. The repairman I used last winter could only get the pilot flame to about a 1.5 inch yellow flame. He did not say anything about cleaning or replacing the orifice (not going back to him). Anyhow, I will replace the whole assembly if i can. I don't think I can find a 1960 Coleman pilot assembly (it also has a Rheem symbol on the motor). Can I replace it with another manufacturer assembly?
You can try a general replacement pilot assembly if you can find one that has the same type of flame ( shell, L shaped, T shaped).
GFM
Cool video! In my lennox furnace it had a standing pilot i took it all apart the furnace hasnt been cleaned since 1989 it was as good As new!
Do you have any recommended sources for Gas Log Orifice's?
Pilot orifice or main gas?
GFM
I have been going to different Furnace Supply stores taking them my Gas Furnace Standing Pilot Orfice with 2 holes asking for a replacement. They tell me they need a Brand&Serial number from my furnace. My furnance is missing all tags so I have no way of knowing the maker etc. Please help.
I would replace the entire pilot assembly with a general replacement assembly.
GFM
Hello, I have a 9500 BTU on one of my four burners at home and I would like to upgrade it to around 12000 because it really can't sear well (I do steaks and stir fries...) Is that a good level of heat?
Is this a barbecue?
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman no, it's a kitchen stove
The problem here is you will need a burner that is the correct size. You can drill out the gas orifice, but the air fuel mix will be wrong and it will produce CO gas.
GFM
Thanks for that 👍👍
This is what I needed to know. Thanks!
Welcome
GFM
thank you GFM for sharing Excellent video!!!
Welcome
GFM
HI have a vent less heater pilot will light and stay lit but the flame is to high see no adjustment
If the pilot flame is high and yellow, the pilot assembly is dirty. Something like canned air blown across the assembly may clear it up.
GFM
good video, good info, thanks a lot!
They can be cleaned with a broach or a fine drill bit. Just don’t make the hole larger. I used to even blow them clean with my breath or a aspirator bulb.
If you ever find a drill bit that small, let me know.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman I keep an assortment of guitar strings for clearing tiny orifices. They are made of stiff steel wire and work very well for this.
Please help me ...I just replaced an orrifice with a new one and after 2 days of working the flame got a lot larger ......maybe i didnt screw it much or maybe i overtightened it ? i dont know please help me and thank you so much for your videos
Pilot orifice or main gas?
GFM
It's been 7 years of silence.. he must be on the other side of the rainbow by now 🌈
Thank yoy
thank you for this video...
Once after clean and re-assemble of standing pilot ass'y to pilot tube, I had a small leak (very small flame coming out rear side of threaded connection) where pilot tube connected to pilot ass'y (had done a few others with no leak however). What would be the best way to leak test that connection BEFORE re-installing gas burner ass'y and lighting pilot, so as to avoid having to pull burner ass'y again after finding a tiny leak. Possible to connect can of air to threaded pilot ass'y or something like that? Connect it to gas valve and light the pilot (before reinstalling burner ass'y & gas valve?
+JustPlumDucky What I do is put a very small amount of pipe dope on the ferrel mating surfaces. You can also put it on the threads for lubrication (the threads do not seal). Hope this helps.
GFM
+JustPlumDucky One final question please... I realize that the proper degree of tightness is achieved only with experience, no doubt, but wondering if there is any recommended method, such as inch-lbs. or number of turns to achieve leak-free tightness. Maybe there isn't any such thing as an inch-lb. open-end torgue wrench, at all, or for such small fittings, but just trying to satisfy my OCD since being spooked by my last experience with this :). Actually didn't get the tiny leak/flame until the 250 lb. LP tank guage dropped down to approximately 5%. Maybe I just had a bad day and was afraid of "too tight" on that occasion. Maybe better to go tighter in the future, then adjust if necessary. However, will be doing the pipe dope thing, thx much for that!
+JustPlumDucky Soon as I read my comment about a can of air to leak test it, I realized that would be too much pressure! (can't have you thinking I didn't realize that immediately after :)
so if the pilot orfices are light....look like candles.....what is going on?
i2aymond You probably have a plugged pilot burner. You may be able to fix it by blowing on it with compressed air
GFM
I got a gas heater that runs off natural gas or propane and the pilot orifice for the propane is tiny, blows it out when the gas kicks on sense it was brand new, put the natural gas one in there but it let's wat to much outmakes the pilot huge when it kicks on, not really sure what to do with it, anyone have any ideas?
Are you using propane or natural gas?
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman propane
@@This0is0pointless So, the pilot is blown out by the main burner when the burner lights?
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman yes that's what was happening, the flame was just a tiny little bud barely big enough to warm the thermocouple, I actually took it apart again and blew it out and poked a tiny sewing needle through it and tried putting the smaller one back in there, and it seems fine now.
May have just been something in there from machining or who knows, I appreciate you replying though
OK!!
My 30 year old RV water heater pilot assembly is missing the flame diffuser. The pilot blows out two to three times a month. If a diffuser would bend the flame toward the thermocouple tube, where can I get a flame diffuser? Any help would be appreciated.
Flame diffuser? I have no idea what you are talking about. Have you replaced the thermocouple?
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman it’s a metal thing resembling an elbow. No, I have not replaced the thermocouple. I’d like to find where the failure is happening before replacing a part or assembly. I’ve been repairing all kinds of devices since 1955, so I diagnose symptoms clear down the cause of failure before buying a part. I do not mean to insult you with my answer.
Ple
@@shermananderson700 None taken. The thermocouple can be tested by first determining if the pilot flame covers the thermocouple about 3/8 inch. Then you can check pilot safety dropout by blowing out the pilot and waiting for the safety dropout. If it drops out within 20 seconds, the thermocouple is suspect.
GFM
How can you tell if there's a leak?
A soap solution works well.
GFM
good video. Just a gas valve question, I bumped into this Robert shaw gas valve the other day7000BDER, it has this small two prong electrical connection on the side...what is it? it says 24V... It can be seen on a google search under the images using that model number...
I believe that's a low gas pressure shut off used mostly in Carrier electric pilot furnaces.
GFM
You see, this was on an old Modine unit heater in a garage. It says 24VAC so I'm thinking its a load not a switch, so if I jump it out, I'll effectively burn something out, where as if its a switch, Ill be temporarily enabling and closing a simple switch. Thats why I need to" KNOW", ... not guess, what it is. If you don't know for sure, say so. Did you look at the picture?
Yes I did. Replaced number of then on Carrier furnaces.
GFM
Dam hvac8;75859:7: learn, to use punctuation, marks and, learn some, dam “MANNERS” ... !! ! !!!
The Grayfurnace gentleman merely provided you with his best guess according to the info he was given. Wether you agree, disagree, like it, hate it or whatever, you are to take the advice as is and move along. If you don’t feel the opinion is up to par then ask someone else. Or do your own dam research. Or better yet, consider paying someone. Either way, don’t kick a gift horse in the mouth. Considering what you paid to Mr. Grayfurnace... for the consultation and his time, I’d say you got a great deal.
I got a new furnace 3 yrs ago. It's a Coleman Furnace Model DGAH077BBSB. In the beginning of the first 2 winters it would not heat up and I get the repairmen here. twice already the problem is spider egg sacks blocking the burner orifice costing me just over $100 in repairs. How can I prevent this or fix this myself?? Can anyone help me??
Here'e a link to the furnace manual:
www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/user-manuals/DGAH077BBSB-COLEMAN-FURNACE-manual
Thank you.. that's what I needed to see.
Welcome
GFM