@@JoshsShop I think if Victorinox were to do that they would have to use the Wenger style scissors because what I have heard is (I don't know if this is true) supposedly a number of years back the machinery used to manufacture the mid sized scissors broke down and the parts necessary for the repair were no longer available and/or the cost was prohibitive. This sounds ridiculous but it's the only explanation I have heard. I would love aCadet X as well.
@Victorinox Where is this 84mm scissors machine? There has to be a UA-cam video out there on how to fix it. We will start a crowd funding campaign to pay for the parts.
Personally, I'd love what I guess would be called a "Bantam X" or "Compact ALOX". Also, for office EDC, I would love something smaller than the Cybertool M without giving up the scissors. I don't need the two separate blade and two separate openers of the Cybertool S. Give me a Compact, but with the hex driver layer inserted in the middle. Or I'd settle for a Yeoman if they brought that back. And I know MANY people wish for a Compact but with Phillips driver instead of corkscrew.
I modified myself a TSA compliant travel SAK. I think there might be a niche demand for such a SAK model for travelers who want to avoid check-in luggage hassles/fees and don't really need a big knife blade.
No problems, but it got extra scrutiny by a supervisor.saw Scissors under 4" allowed (6cm in Europe). No saws in US, including the SAW under the file/rasp. Thanks for the video.
For whittling, I got the „Swiss Army 7“ model, which is essentially a Farmer except it has a small hook shaped blade instead of the can opener. I reground the hook blade to a whittling blade, works really well. Bonus: it comes without a keyring so no hotspots.
I looked at that knife and thought about doing the same thing. I actually like having the key ring so I can hang the knife on a pocket clip, but I understand why some people wouldn't like that. How do you like the reground hawks bill blade? I personally feel that Victorinox steel is just fine for whittling (I do plenty with a reground small blade), but it is nice to have the slightly harder flexcut steel in my knife.
@@JoshsShop I guess a „real“ whittling blade like the Flexcut will work a bit better and hold up better long-term, but I haven’t tried that so I can’t compare really. I only whittle for fun when I am out in the woods and the Victorinox blade works just fine for that. I also use it kind of as an all-purpose wood working knife for camping/bushcrafting. I liked that regrinding the blade is less „invasive“ and easier to do imho than messing with the rivets etc.
putting in the pen is a manual labor task and the main reason saks are still this cheap despite being produced in swiss (extremely expensive country) is a next to fully automated process that‘s why the pen is only available on the more expensive options
Grinding/filing off the key ring: - when the attachment point is on a spacer (e.g. Alox): put some tape on the scales to protect them - when the attachment point is on the back spring (e.g. modern 91 mm Spartan): you can (partially) open the tool on thet layer to raise the spring out of the knife while grinding
Excellent video. I had a sak as a kid but ended up losing it. I've got a handful of budget multitools and recently dove back into the world of Vicrorinox. Settled on a Super Tinker as it most suits my current needs but would love to mod it, I don't find anything in the "opening" row particularly useful. One thing I have done already is filed down a very small Phillips bit to slot into the groove behind the back springs. A work in progress but the prototype works great. It's a cheap and easy way to carry a mini bit (or possibly a couple) without having a corkscrew 👍
Actually I take that back - I'll use the wire stripper and maybe the pry bar, but since I'm not likely to encounter many large flat head screws I'm debating cutting a 'v' into the end of the bottle opener to use as a nail puller. The can opener I'm not so sure about!
The can opener is probably my least used tool, but I use the bigger flathead/pry bar often. I need to do a video of a mod where I grind off the can opener to make a smaller flathead that can actually get into smaller spaces.
I have a Deluxe Tinker and I am desperate to swap the Philips screwdriver for a corkscrew so that I can add the minidriver. Or anyway to carry the minidriver. So your project sounds just what I am looking for! Is there any chance you could upload a video to show your SAK project please?
Felix Immler has a video about modifying the canopener into a hook blade. This would be fantastic for opening boxes and clam shell packaging. He didn’t grind off the pivot point of the canopener for this, but if I were to do this mod, I believe I would grind it off to open up the blade, or at least reshape it so it serves as a guide to slide the blade as it cuts.
Damn so Alox Bantman X is possible after all, that would be the best and thinest gentlemans knife imo also other dream knife is somehow swaping the hook on a Compact for somethink like Explorers phillips, but it would need some custom phillips i would say (and still can have a nail file on the side of it like a hook does) great vid. opened my eyes to those possibilities, never knew you can mod Victorianox this substantially
I will have owned my Handyman for half my life come September. I got it on my 16th birthday. It's perfect for my needs. I've used everything on it. The only thing I wish it had is a Phillips head screwdriver. Maybe I'll swap out the corkscrew one day.
Regarding the box opener mod, I just use the bottle opener to open boxes. The bottom point (the point that goes into the scales first) is pointy enough to get through tape, then just run it down the tape, and the box is open. It does gunk up the bottle opener, but that's no issue. It might hold onto screws better, and it will never poke through a bottle cap into a drink like the can opener does.
I like to turn my 58mm blades into an awl because I normally carry a modestly sized traditional pocket knife with 2 blades and don't use my 58mm models as a knife. It's not the most ideal thing to do, but if you're willing to shorten it and cut in a notch / hook in the top like you have on leatherman tools you can make the most of things and have a decent small awl.
That is an interesting idea. I find that I do not use the blades on my 58mm knives as a "knife" all that often either, maybe I would get more utility from your mod. Do you just put a single bevel on it?
Only just found your channel, great content, thank you, in regards to spacer washers for shimming your tools should you modify then buy an assorted set of gearbox shimming washers for an air soft gear box, they are cheap and come in varying thicknesses.
Great Video. I have been thinking about one particular mod for some time. I have a huntsman with plus scales and the only thing I wish for, would be the ability to disassemble it for cleaning. Meaning that I would want to replace the pins with screws. But then I would have the problem, that I needed to pop off the scales regularly, which will wear out the friction fittings. I haven't come up with a solution to this problem yet.
Custom metal scales with scale tool slots, and have the scales held on with the pivot screws? I'm not sure if these exist, but it seems feasible. Otherwise, ditch the scale tools and go for more of an alox look?
The keyring can also be used to break a car window in an emergency situation. If you look at the Victorinox Rescue Tool, it has a nub which is very similar to the keyring for that purpose.
It seems possible, but I bet it would be rough. Felix Immler couldn't do it in this video: ua-cam.com/video/1j5wofFjsdU/v-deo.html so I don't know how realistic it is to expect to be able to break a car window with the keyring nub.
Thanks, the brand name of the speed clips was Power Clips I believe, but they are all pretty similar as far as I can tell, and mine are the 50 lbs version.
I have the Officers model and I always believed a can opener is a bottle opener (or very close), but a bottle opener is not a can opener. About any thing could be a bottle opener, including the edge of a table. The can opener makes getting into a can of beans a lot easier than say stabbing the knife blade thru the top. I'd like to come up with a mod to eliminate the bottle opener/(wire bender-stripper)(which is essentially just a notch and could be added to the can opener.
Two of the split jewelers rings will fit on the attached lanyard ring, and then I put a larger key ring on the the two jewelers rings. It's an easier attachment to work with, and lessens the hot spot.
This video popping up on my feed completely reignited my interest on a modded SAK. Cheers for the extra money pit 😁 Wondering if you'd know the answer to whether the nail file from an 84mm cadet would be able to replace the can opener on a 91mm. Would the hole on the file need to be enlarged, would the backspring need to be modified? Anything to help would be appreciated, and again cheers for the video.
I am glad you enjoyed this video. In answer to your question I made a short and unedited video that is unlisted, so it is only available through this link: ua-cam.com/video/r3rfCREA_Uc/v-deo.html Hopefully that helps, let me know if you have other questions.
@@JoshsShop thank you Josh! that video was very helpful, I see the issues now. Could a possible solution be using the combo tool instead of the bottle opener flathead, and spacing both tools so they sit next to each other as opposed to on top, using spacers on either side? I will definately build myself a jig, looks very handy for prototype fitment. Thanks again!
Unfortunately I don't have a combo tool to play around with at the moment, but I believe the combo tool is the same thickness as the 84mm nail file, which is also the same thickness as the small blade. The struggle will still be stops for the nail file so it doesn't get lost in the knife when you close it.
One of these days I'll buy myself another compact which is my favorite model probably. The Cadet and electrician are close to it. But I'd swap the corkscrew with a screwdriver and the parcel hook with an awl or a cadet nail file or something that acts like a flathead screwdriver maybe. I use both styles of the awl a bit, with the hole and the style on the pioneer/farmer/electrician knives. A cadet with scissors would make an excellent knife though. I still have yet to buy a Pioneer X as well, swap the can opener with the electrician blade though and it'd be even better I think. I love victorinox but I hate how all of their models are just almost perfect.
I think swapping the parcel hook on a Compact for an awl would be easy enough, but I would be interested in seeing how you would go about swapping the hook for a nail file from a Cadet.
I had a serrated Spartan, and put a phillips instead of a corkscrew on the back, to make a serrated Tinker. I just needed to remove the back tool pin. Then I had a One Handed Trekker that I thought was too wide, so I removed the saw. That required a full disassembly. But I did it, with nothing but sandpaper and a hammer.
I’d like to swap out the Phillips driver on the Fieldmaster for a corkscrew so I can have the tinder and/or eyeglass driver on board a pretty fully functioned edc. Looks like it would be a perfect swap
@@JoshsShop Turns out the Huntsman actually has the combination of tools I prefer so I just ordered it instead. If I do anything I might simply add plus scales so I can add the pen accessory too. The advertisement claims it even comes with rare ‘lockable blades’ as well. Some sort of special addition to the black model of the Huntsman I just ordered. It even mentions it on the spec sheet as well. I find it very hard to believe but maybe I stumbled upon a jewel I wasn’t even expecting to in the process of finding and choosing a different model from what I was going to order initially.
I am desperate to find a way to add the minidriver to any SAK that doesn't have a corkscrew. Does anyone have any ideas please? I have a Deluxe Tinker model atm.
Hello, nice Video :) Have you ever thought about a mod do fix the main blade on a 91mm knife? Like a liner lock or something... Would be very nice to see if this would work. Thats the only thing i miss on the vicorinox knifes.
I used to miss the locking blade when I switched to a SAK, but honestly I have found I prefer a slip joint knife to a locker. That said I can see why people would prefer a locker. I personally haven't tinkered with the idea, but I have seen people play around with the 111mm models that do have a lock. I am sure there is a way to pull it off on the 91mm models, I just haven't thought about it much.
Yeah, I like the current can opener for the most part, I am just gonna see if I can tweak it a bit. I'll make a video as soon as I figure it out and have time.
Have you considered a can opner/ screwdriver mod ? What most SAK is sadly missing is a 2or3mm flat head screwdriver with clearance, at the same time producing a 2d Phillips, at the same time making the can opner better? My rough and ready mod to give me a much better small flat /2d Phillips end on, is the first mod i do every time , along with the keyring which i also grind away can opner . My video : victorinox, explorer, huntsman, farmer, climber screwdriver can opener mod.
I just watched your video! I have considered that mod, although I have never done it. I am glad to see the can opener is still useful and perhaps improved. I will have to give it a go. Thanks.
@@JoshsShop That's great . I just received a new victorinox Angler today in black with plus scales. I did my usual keyring grind and can opener grind and very pleased with result. Give it a go on a low grade specimen and see what you think ? My grind i just follow the lines of a Phillips 1/2 about 2.5mm on the flat . Good luck .Greetings from Scotland.
How hard is it to disable the 111mm range? and I’m looking to remove the liner lock, and grind the blade down to 3”. Then if that isn’t too bad what about getting the right rivet size for the scales to stick too?
The 111mm knives have similar construction. Grinding the blade down would be easy enough, just be careful not to over heat the steel. You could cut the liner lock off and smooth things down fairly easily I would imagine. You can use a drill or drill press to sand down slightly oversized brass rod to use as rivets/pins. Just be careful during disassembly to not mess up the bushings that the scales snap onto that are on the pins and you can reuse them.
Just heard that the newer inline phillips that comes with the grey magnifier is longer than the newer one w the clear mag, but sits lowers, so maybe the shorter one would work opposite the pair of openers...
I had actually designed a modified version of my Ranger 79 and submitted it to Victorinox, but never received a response. I designed a true bare bones woodsman’s knife with everything you need and nothing you don’t.
I just put the awl where the Phillips/cork screw would be on the blade layer and notched the scale just a bit so I could access the nail nick in the awl rather than having the big cutout in the scale where the phillips/corkscrew would stick out. Hope that makes sense.
I haven't messed around with a SAK file, but generally files are so hard that you have to take the temper out of the steel (called annealing) before you can really mess with them. Then you have to re-temper them. It would be doable, but you would probably have to remove it from the knife so you didn't damage the other tools. I also don't know if the end result would be any better than just going with modding one of the existing blades. I would be surprised if the steel is any different than the other tools. I might have to look into it though, it is an interesting idea.
If I was going to make scales from timascus, would I need to make 4 inserts for each side for the brass thing to press fit into? Since the timascus is a lot harder than the brass.
You will for sure need to make some recesses in the scales for the pins and bushings to fit into. If you can be precise about it, you can make them just the right size to press fit on, but it would probably be easier to make the recesses a little bit oversized and epoxy the scales on.
I have quite a few videos regarding Swiss Army Knife modifications, and they can all be found in this playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLchohXL2ssPYHJt7ykeeCbGKdiqMPpa8N.html&si=aW6Bl4Le45yG-1yi
Do you know if there's a nail file thats the size of the one on the cadet, but that has a screwdriver tip, similar to the tiny one on the Classic SD? I end up using my nail file quite a bit actually. I'd trade that for the small blade on my Tinker...I think thats the sportsman, but I don't really want to lose the philips for a corkscrew
I don't know of such a tool, but I would think you could reshape the tip of the nail file on the Cadet to serve your purposes fairly easy. Then put that into your knife of choice. Alternatively you could swap the corkscrew for a Philips on a Sportsman.
I'm getting a super tinker in the mail soon but I'm legally not allowed to carry a knife (any knife) where I live, so I'm looking into removing the two blades and keeping all of the other tools. Would this be a fairly simple process or is it complicated by spring placement and such?
The trouble is that the two blades share a spring with the Phillips screwdriver, so just removing the blades and reassembling would result in a wonky knife because there wouldn't be pressure on the spring opposite the Philips. Probably the best solution is to remove the blade layer all together and swap out the hook (unless you really love the hook, but I rarely use it) for the Philips. It would require you to completely disassemble the knife, probably fiddle with the Philips a little so it matches the hook (I haven't compared the two closely enough, you might be able to just swap them), then reassemble. All totally doable, but it takes a few tools, and some gumption.
@@JoshsShop Thanks for the reply :) I can definitely do without the hook, and moving it down to a 2 layer was my thought too. The hook and the scissors share a spring, and after looking at it the best I can while it's all still assembled, it looks like the Philips/knife spring is a touch thicker than the scissor/hook spring. They also appear to be different shapes too. Do you think the Philips would still function using the scissor spring?
@@redbassist5590 I don't currently have a scissor layer on hand that I could play around with, but I did measure the thickness of the Phillips and the hook, and they are the same at the pivot. The shape seems pretty similar, but not exactly the same. If you built yourself a little jig to hold the layer before you reassemble (I do this in a couple of my videos) you would be able to see if you could make some adjustments to make it work, or maybe it will work just fine as is.
In a Ranger can I take out all scissors layer with the opposed multipurpose hook, and ensemble it again? Also, is it easy to replace the corkscrew with the multipurpose hook?
It should be easy enough to completely remove the scissor layer, and you can reuse the pins because you are making a smaller knife, as long as you are careful. I'm not 100% sure on the hook in place of the corkscrew. I am pretty sure they are different thicknesses, so you would need to adjust for that. I don't have one on me at the moment to confirm this, but all you need to do is measure the thickness of the tools as close to the pivot as possible and you will know if you need to thin it down or add a spacer.
@@JoshsShop Thanx for answer, man. I have a Handyman, that has both the corkscrew and the hook, and to me they seem the same thickness. If the thickness is the only criteria for replacement, then it can be done. Regarding the first question, then I can transform my Handyman in a 4 layers survival sak, without scissors and pliers. (I bought the Handyman for the pliers, but found out that I don’t like the weight in my pocket and the thickness in the hand. I prefer to have 2 smaller saks with me in different pockets, that also feel better in the hand). What do you think, could I add the remaining pliers from the Handyman to a Compact (making it a 3 layer)? I think, all I will need, is to buy longer pins. (the remaining scissors from Handyman can be put in a survival kit and used separately)
The pins need to be the width of the knife + the outside plates + the bushings + a few extra mm on each side. You then file the pins down to about 1mm wider than the bushings before peening them down.
I just purchased a SAK Hiker but I don't like it because the springs are too hard so I can only open the tools with a metal lever. My fingernails are not good enough. I've washed it in hot soapy water and sprayed WD40 into it and worked the blades open and shut but they're so dammed snappy.
Hmm, I have never had trouble with being able to open my Victorinox knives. Do you know anyone else that might have a SAK for you to compare too? Perhaps you got a funky knife (which would be surprising because Victorinox has such good quality control, but I suppose it happens).
@@JoshsShop I don't know any penknife nerds. My approach is to keep using it and I've found the plastic hook on tweezers and toothpick pull tools open fine.
It should be, I think the tools are the same width at the pivot, but you would want to double check, you would just have a bit of an odd looking cut out in the scale where the corkscrew was sticking out.
I swapped a phillips screwdriver for the corkscrew on a waiter....If you are careful you can re-use the pivot. Be sure to get your reamer/awl from an 84 mm model.... like the small Tinker so it will be the right length.
Sorry Steven, that isn't really something that I do. The aim of my channel is to help you learn how to do something like that yourself. I understand if that is something that you aren't interested in, if that is the case I know there are a few custom modders out there that will do something like that. I don't know of anyone to recommend personally, but a search for #sakmod somewhere like Instagram would probably be a good place to start.
You could scavenge the hook layer from a modern knife and add it to the champ, but honestly, it would be easier and not much more money to buy a used modern Swiss Champ if that is all you are after.
@@JoshsShop I didn't realize it's so cheap, even for a brand new one. When i bought it as a kid in 1990 it seemed like a fortune to me. In my memories it was about $100 in 1990 dollars. Did they get cheaper?
No it is still pricey, but adding a layer to a Swiss Champ will be a pain, that is a lot of layers. A sacrificial knife with the hook layer will cost you at least $20 used, likely a bit more. A used Swiss Champ can be had for $50-$60 if you are patient. So I guess a good bit more, but still might be a better route.
Those 2 tools have very different thicknesses. If you have the complete pliers layer to swap out for the scissors and completely disassemble the knife then yes, but you wouldn't be able to just take out one rivet and swap out the scissors for pliers.
I have a older Swiss Army knife that my wife’s dad gave me I have cleaned and oil and worked on it it’s bad the aluminum liners are nasty it needs to be took apart and replaced or cleaned would you be willing to help me I’ll send you the knife
Other than the pins, which are brass rods from the local hardware store, everything is taken from a knife I disassembled. When there is a part I need, I look for a used Swiss Army Knife (or a lot of knives) on eBay and I wait till the price is right. Over the past several years I have amassed a small collection of spare pieces/parts this way.
Anybody here know if swapping the cap lifter/large flathead for the electrician blade on the Pioneer X would be an easy mod? Looks like it's the right layer thickness. I'm hoping this will work because I really like the Electrician but would like to add scissors and this looks like the easiest way to get there. Also I prefer the can opener to the bottle opener anyway. Thanks for the helpful video & tips!
I think that would be doable. You should be able to swap out the two tools. Assuming there is enough blade clearance without running into the opposite tool and the nail nick is accessible. You might also need to fiddle with the part that contacts the spring to get the proper fit. All doable if you have time, patience, and a few tools. It would be similar to this video: ua-cam.com/video/nDDCIhJWuV4/v-deo.html
@@JoshsShop Thanks for the reply Josh! Would you happen to know of anyone that can do this kind of a mod as a service? I would be willing to pay for it. Appreciate the tips.
I don't know of anyone personally, but a search on Instagram for "sakmod" will likely get you going in the right direction. Be prepared though, mods are never cheap. That is why I figured out how to do a lot of this myself, and I made videos to help my fellow cheapskates. 😁 That said, I fully understand the desire to pay someone else to do the mod for you. I am sure a pro modder will be happy to have your business.
So did I, I thought it was pretty hilarious. You can still order the tinker model at: www.smkw.com/victorinox-trash-panda-tinker I think they also have a Classic SD model, but I didn't look.
A 3 layer Cadet with scissors has been on my wish list for ever. Seems like they would sell like hot cakes.
It was on mine as well. If they would do an 84mm pioneer x with the thinner cadet scales I would be in love.
@@JoshsShop I think if Victorinox were to do that they would have to use the Wenger style scissors because what I have heard is (I don't know if this is true) supposedly a number of years back the machinery used to manufacture the mid sized scissors broke down and the parts necessary for the repair were no longer available and/or the cost was prohibitive. This sounds ridiculous but it's the only explanation I have heard. I would love aCadet X as well.
@Victorinox Where is this 84mm scissors machine? There has to be a UA-cam video out there on how to fix it. We will start a crowd funding campaign to pay for the parts.
@@JoshsShop LOL!
Personally, I'd love what I guess would be called a "Bantam X" or "Compact ALOX".
Also, for office EDC, I would love something smaller than the Cybertool M without giving up the scissors. I don't need the two separate blade and two separate openers of the Cybertool S. Give me a Compact, but with the hex driver layer inserted in the middle. Or I'd settle for a Yeoman if they brought that back.
And I know MANY people wish for a Compact but with Phillips driver instead of corkscrew.
Great video! I’ve been a SAK carrier for close to 40 years. I feel naked without one on me or near me.
Thanks. I feel about the same. When I go somewhere I can't carry one (like the airport) I feel completely unprepared.
I bet over the last year, this has been a gateway video for new Victorinox enthusiasts
You may be right, I hope they found it useful.
I modified myself a TSA compliant travel SAK. I think there might be a niche demand for such a SAK model for travelers who want to avoid check-in luggage hassles/fees and don't really need a big knife blade.
Yeah, I think the Jetsetter model is Victorinox's attempt to fill that niche. Have you flown with yours yet? Did TSA give you any trouble?
No problems, but it got extra scrutiny by a supervisor.saw
Scissors under 4" allowed (6cm in Europe). No saws in US, including the SAW under the file/rasp.
Thanks for the video.
which tools did you choose and what size platform?
For whittling, I got the „Swiss Army 7“ model, which is essentially a Farmer except it has a small hook shaped blade instead of the can opener. I reground the hook blade to a whittling blade, works really well. Bonus: it comes without a keyring so no hotspots.
I looked at that knife and thought about doing the same thing. I actually like having the key ring so I can hang the knife on a pocket clip, but I understand why some people wouldn't like that. How do you like the reground hawks bill blade? I personally feel that Victorinox steel is just fine for whittling (I do plenty with a reground small blade), but it is nice to have the slightly harder flexcut steel in my knife.
@@JoshsShop I guess a „real“ whittling blade like the Flexcut will work a bit better and hold up better long-term, but I haven’t tried that so I can’t compare really. I only whittle for fun when I am out in the woods and the Victorinox blade works just fine for that. I also use it kind of as an all-purpose wood working knife for camping/bushcrafting. I liked that regrinding the blade is less „invasive“ and easier to do imho than messing with the rivets etc.
Cool, good to hear you are pleased with it. It is for sure easier than what I did. 😁
The plus scales should be standard on A LOT more models !
I really hate how the liners corrode.
Those Oak burl scales are beautiful !😲
I agree, the pen really takes it up a notch.
putting in the pen is a manual labor task and the main reason saks are still this cheap despite being produced in swiss (extremely expensive country) is a next to fully automated process
that‘s why the pen is only available on the more expensive options
@@nilsandresen9912 If the Pen is manual labor task, what is the toothpick and tweezers ?
Thanks for a very informative and clear account what can be done with an SAK, excellent video!
I'm glad you appreciated it.
Grinding/filing off the key ring:
- when the attachment point is on a spacer (e.g. Alox): put some tape on the scales to protect them
- when the attachment point is on the back spring (e.g. modern 91 mm Spartan): you can (partially) open the tool on thet layer to raise the spring out of the knife while grinding
Good tips, thanks. 👍
Excellent video. I had a sak as a kid but ended up losing it. I've got a handful of budget multitools and recently dove back into the world of Vicrorinox. Settled on a Super Tinker as it most suits my current needs but would love to mod it, I don't find anything in the "opening" row particularly useful.
One thing I have done already is filed down a very small Phillips bit to slot into the groove behind the back springs. A work in progress but the prototype works great. It's a cheap and easy way to carry a mini bit (or possibly a couple) without having a corkscrew 👍
Actually I take that back - I'll use the wire stripper and maybe the pry bar, but since I'm not likely to encounter many large flat head screws I'm debating cutting a 'v' into the end of the bottle opener to use as a nail puller.
The can opener I'm not so sure about!
The can opener is probably my least used tool, but I use the bigger flathead/pry bar often. I need to do a video of a mod where I grind off the can opener to make a smaller flathead that can actually get into smaller spaces.
I have a Deluxe Tinker and I am desperate to swap the Philips screwdriver for a corkscrew so that I can add the minidriver. Or anyway to carry the minidriver. So your project sounds just what I am looking for! Is there any chance you could upload a video to show your SAK project please?
Loved to watch the hole thing. Thank you so much for sharing
I'm glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching.
The awl works pretty good for opening boxes. Modifying the can opener would be interesting to see though, but try the awl if your knife has one.
The awl is great for boxes, but that knife doesn't have one.
Felix Immler has a video about modifying the canopener into a hook blade. This would be fantastic for opening boxes and clam shell packaging. He didn’t grind off the pivot point of the canopener for this, but if I were to do this mod, I believe I would grind it off to open up the blade, or at least reshape it so it serves as a guide to slide the blade as it cuts.
Damn so Alox Bantman X is possible after all, that would be the best and thinest gentlemans knife imo
also other dream knife is somehow swaping the hook on a Compact for somethink like Explorers phillips, but it would need some custom phillips i would say (and still can have a nail file on the side of it like a hook does)
great vid. opened my eyes to those possibilities, never knew you can mod Victorianox this substantially
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it. It is a dangerous rabbit hole once you start down it.
I will have owned my Handyman for half my life come September. I got it on my 16th birthday. It's perfect for my needs. I've used everything on it. The only thing I wish it had is a Phillips head screwdriver. Maybe I'll swap out the corkscrew one day.
Regarding the box opener mod, I just use the bottle opener to open boxes. The bottom point (the point that goes into the scales first) is pointy enough to get through tape, then just run it down the tape, and the box is open. It does gunk up the bottle opener, but that's no issue. It might hold onto screws better, and it will never poke through a bottle cap into a drink like the can opener does.
I have a Victorinox Spartan Swiss Army Knife in black. Brilliant tool 🎉
They are surprisingly versatile given how pared down they are.
I like to turn my 58mm blades into an awl because I normally carry a modestly sized traditional pocket knife with 2 blades and don't use my 58mm models as a knife.
It's not the most ideal thing to do, but if you're willing to shorten it and cut in a notch / hook in the top like you have on leatherman tools you can make the most of things and have a decent small awl.
That is an interesting idea. I find that I do not use the blades on my 58mm knives as a "knife" all that often either, maybe I would get more utility from your mod. Do you just put a single bevel on it?
@@JoshsShop yes.
Kind of an exactl blade kind of shape, single bevel.
This is a golden video!
I'm glad you think so, thanks for watching.
Awesome video! Thank you for sharing!
You bet, glad you liked it.
Only just found your channel, great content, thank you, in regards to spacer washers for shimming your tools should you modify then buy an assorted set of gearbox shimming washers for an air soft gear box, they are cheap and come in varying thicknesses.
Thanks, and good to know. Do you know what those washers are generally made from?
Oh your joshing happy with the way they are. Great vidio good information.
This video is extremely interesting !!
Great Video. I have been thinking about one particular mod for some time. I have a huntsman with plus scales and the only thing I wish for, would be the ability to disassemble it for cleaning. Meaning that I would want to replace the pins with screws. But then I would have the problem, that I needed to pop off the scales regularly, which will wear out the friction fittings. I haven't come up with a solution to this problem yet.
Custom metal scales with scale tool slots, and have the scales held on with the pivot screws? I'm not sure if these exist, but it seems feasible. Otherwise, ditch the scale tools and go for more of an alox look?
Did you end up doing it?
The keyring can also be used to break a car window in an emergency situation. If you look at the Victorinox Rescue Tool, it has a nub which is very similar to the keyring for that purpose.
It seems possible, but I bet it would be rough. Felix Immler couldn't do it in this video: ua-cam.com/video/1j5wofFjsdU/v-deo.html so I don't know how realistic it is to expect to be able to break a car window with the keyring nub.
inline screw and two opener layer! interesting. I have to try.
It is a crazy mod. Here is a link to a forum where it is discussed if you are interested: forum.multitool.org/index.php/topic,70976.0.html
Excellent video, thank you! What size speed clips are you using? Any particular manufacturer?
Thanks, the brand name of the speed clips was Power Clips I believe, but they are all pretty similar as far as I can tell, and mine are the 50 lbs version.
Replace can opener and bottle opener with the combo can and bottle opener found on the waiter or compact . I really like that combo tool
That would be totally doable, but I don't think I have ever needed the can opener. I'm sure some people use it all the time though.
I really wish they would allow you to customize your own knife. How cool would that be
It would be awesome, but until they do (which I doubt they ever will) WE MOD!
I have the Officers model and I always believed a can opener is a bottle opener (or very close), but a bottle opener is not a can opener. About any thing could be a bottle opener, including the edge of a table. The can opener makes getting into a can of beans a lot easier than say stabbing the knife blade thru the top. I'd like to come up with a mod to eliminate the bottle opener/(wire bender-stripper)(which is essentially just a notch and could be added to the can opener.
I mostly agree, but I use the flat head screwdriver/pry bar too often to take it off personally.
Two of the split jewelers rings will fit on the attached lanyard ring, and then I put a larger key ring on the the two jewelers rings. It's an easier attachment to work with, and lessens the hot spot.
Good to know, thanks for sharing.
This video popping up on my feed completely reignited my interest on a modded SAK. Cheers for the extra money pit 😁
Wondering if you'd know the answer to whether the nail file from an 84mm cadet would be able to replace the can opener on a 91mm. Would the hole on the file need to be enlarged, would the backspring need to be modified?
Anything to help would be appreciated, and again cheers for the video.
I am glad you enjoyed this video. In answer to your question I made a short and unedited video that is unlisted, so it is only available through this link: ua-cam.com/video/r3rfCREA_Uc/v-deo.html
Hopefully that helps, let me know if you have other questions.
@@JoshsShop thank you Josh! that video was very helpful, I see the issues now.
Could a possible solution be using the combo tool instead of the bottle opener flathead, and spacing both tools so they sit next to each other as opposed to on top, using spacers on either side?
I will definately build myself a jig, looks very handy for prototype fitment. Thanks again!
Unfortunately I don't have a combo tool to play around with at the moment, but I believe the combo tool is the same thickness as the 84mm nail file, which is also the same thickness as the small blade. The struggle will still be stops for the nail file so it doesn't get lost in the knife when you close it.
One of these days I'll buy myself another compact which is my favorite model probably. The Cadet and electrician are close to it. But I'd swap the corkscrew with a screwdriver and the parcel hook with an awl or a cadet nail file or something that acts like a flathead screwdriver maybe. I use both styles of the awl a bit, with the hole and the style on the pioneer/farmer/electrician knives. A cadet with scissors would make an excellent knife though. I still have yet to buy a Pioneer X as well, swap the can opener with the electrician blade though and it'd be even better I think. I love victorinox but I hate how all of their models are just almost perfect.
I think swapping the parcel hook on a Compact for an awl would be easy enough, but I would be interested in seeing how you would go about swapping the hook for a nail file from a Cadet.
I had a serrated Spartan, and put a phillips instead of a corkscrew on the back, to make a serrated Tinker. I just needed to remove the back tool pin.
Then I had a One Handed Trekker that I thought was too wide, so I removed the saw. That required a full disassembly. But I did it, with nothing but sandpaper and a hammer.
Nice, that is the kind of stuff I started with, then I just kept going down that rabbit hole.
I'd like to do the opposite and swap a Philips for a corkscrew/minidriver
I thought I am the only one who liked the knife hanging from a pocket hook. 👍
It's the best way to carry a knife, I don't even know it is in my pocket till I need it.
Cool vid
I’d like to swap out the Phillips driver on the Fieldmaster for a corkscrew so I can have the tinder and/or eyeglass driver on board a pretty fully functioned edc. Looks like it would be a perfect swap
You are right, the corkscrew and Phillips are a pretty easy swap, same size and everything.
@@JoshsShop Oh great. I wasn’t even sure that was possible without to many complications so I appreciate the confirmation.
@@JoshsShop Turns out the Huntsman actually has the combination of tools I prefer so I just ordered it instead. If I do anything I might simply add plus scales so I can add the pen accessory too. The advertisement claims it even comes with rare ‘lockable blades’ as well. Some sort of special addition to the black model of the Huntsman I just ordered. It even mentions it on the spec sheet as well. I find it very hard to believe but maybe I stumbled upon a jewel I wasn’t even expecting to in the process of finding and choosing a different model from what I was going to order initially.
Cadet with scissors instead of can and bottle openers and farmer with a good blade like out of an old scout knife would be good mods.
As an idea: creating a TSA friendly option? (Besides the severely limited Jetsetter)
I am desperate to find a way to add the minidriver to any SAK that doesn't have a corkscrew. Does anyone have any ideas please?
I have a Deluxe Tinker model atm.
Hello, nice Video :)
Have you ever thought about a mod do fix the main blade on a 91mm knife? Like a liner lock or something...
Would be very nice to see if this would work. Thats the only thing i miss on the vicorinox knifes.
I used to miss the locking blade when I switched to a SAK, but honestly I have found I prefer a slip joint knife to a locker. That said I can see why people would prefer a locker. I personally haven't tinkered with the idea, but I have seen people play around with the 111mm models that do have a lock. I am sure there is a way to pull it off on the 91mm models, I just haven't thought about it much.
6:18 you could try to swap it with a Wenger can opener, I think it works pretty well for that
You loose the small flat screwdriver tho, I just realized that
Yeah, I like the current can opener for the most part, I am just gonna see if I can tweak it a bit. I'll make a video as soon as I figure it out and have time.
Have you considered a can opner/ screwdriver mod ?
What most SAK is sadly missing is a 2or3mm flat head screwdriver with clearance, at the same time producing a 2d Phillips, at the same time making the can opner better?
My rough and ready mod to give me a much better small flat /2d Phillips end on, is the first mod i do every time , along with the keyring which i also grind away can opner .
My video : victorinox, explorer, huntsman, farmer, climber screwdriver can opener mod.
I just watched your video! I have considered that mod, although I have never done it. I am glad to see the can opener is still useful and perhaps improved. I will have to give it a go. Thanks.
@@JoshsShop That's great . I just received a new victorinox Angler today in black with plus scales. I did my usual keyring grind and can opener grind and very pleased with result.
Give it a go on a low grade specimen and see what you think ? My grind i just follow the lines of a Phillips 1/2 about 2.5mm on the flat . Good luck .Greetings from Scotland.
How hard is it to disable the 111mm range?
and I’m looking to remove the liner lock, and grind the blade down to 3”.
Then if that isn’t too bad what about getting the right rivet size for the scales to stick too?
The 111mm knives have similar construction. Grinding the blade down would be easy enough, just be careful not to over heat the steel. You could cut the liner lock off and smooth things down fairly easily I would imagine.
You can use a drill or drill press to sand down slightly oversized brass rod to use as rivets/pins. Just be careful during disassembly to not mess up the bushings that the scales snap onto that are on the pins and you can reuse them.
Just heard that the newer inline phillips that comes with the grey magnifier is longer than the newer one w the clear mag, but sits lowers, so maybe the shorter one would work opposite the pair of openers...
Perhaps, I don't think I have one of each on hand to compare them, but I know I have seen it done.
I had actually designed a modified version of my Ranger 79 and submitted it to Victorinox, but never received a response. I designed a true bare bones woodsman’s knife with everything you need and nothing you don’t.
On your whittler with wood handles how did you keep the awl whilst getting rid of the opener layer - is it a specific backspring needed?
I just put the awl where the Phillips/cork screw would be on the blade layer and notched the scale just a bit so I could access the nail nick in the awl rather than having the big cutout in the scale where the phillips/corkscrew would stick out. Hope that makes sense.
@@JoshsShop Cheers! Wasnt sure if a different backspring was needed :)
I have always thought the perfect knife would be the Angler with scissors added, and swap out the scaler for the wood saw.
Looks like you want the discontinued Victorinox Motorist.
Is the steel on the file hard enough to be made into a whittling blade? That might be fun.
I haven't messed around with a SAK file, but generally files are so hard that you have to take the temper out of the steel (called annealing) before you can really mess with them. Then you have to re-temper them. It would be doable, but you would probably have to remove it from the knife so you didn't damage the other tools. I also don't know if the end result would be any better than just going with modding one of the existing blades. I would be surprised if the steel is any different than the other tools. I might have to look into it though, it is an interesting idea.
If I was going to make scales from timascus, would I need to make 4 inserts for each side for the brass thing to press fit into? Since the timascus is a lot harder than the brass.
You will for sure need to make some recesses in the scales for the pins and bushings to fit into. If you can be precise about it, you can make them just the right size to press fit on, but it would probably be easier to make the recesses a little bit oversized and epoxy the scales on.
OK but how do you get the little pins out there three of them and how to put them back?
I have quite a few videos regarding Swiss Army Knife modifications, and they can all be found in this playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLchohXL2ssPYHJt7ykeeCbGKdiqMPpa8N.html&si=aW6Bl4Le45yG-1yi
Do you know if there's a nail file thats the size of the one on the cadet, but that has a screwdriver tip, similar to the tiny one on the Classic SD? I end up using my nail file quite a bit actually. I'd trade that for the small blade on my Tinker...I think thats the sportsman, but I don't really want to lose the philips for a corkscrew
I don't know of such a tool, but I would think you could reshape the tip of the nail file on the Cadet to serve your purposes fairly easy. Then put that into your knife of choice.
Alternatively you could swap the corkscrew for a Philips on a Sportsman.
I got a Victronox clip for your belt with two chains less than 25 bucks it is excellent carry my farmer X
I have looked at those, but never pulled the trigger.
I'm getting a super tinker in the mail soon but I'm legally not allowed to carry a knife (any knife) where I live, so I'm looking into removing the two blades and keeping all of the other tools. Would this be a fairly simple process or is it complicated by spring placement and such?
The trouble is that the two blades share a spring with the Phillips screwdriver, so just removing the blades and reassembling would result in a wonky knife because there wouldn't be pressure on the spring opposite the Philips.
Probably the best solution is to remove the blade layer all together and swap out the hook (unless you really love the hook, but I rarely use it) for the Philips. It would require you to completely disassemble the knife, probably fiddle with the Philips a little so it matches the hook (I haven't compared the two closely enough, you might be able to just swap them), then reassemble. All totally doable, but it takes a few tools, and some gumption.
@@JoshsShop Thanks for the reply :) I can definitely do without the hook, and moving it down to a 2 layer was my thought too. The hook and the scissors share a spring, and after looking at it the best I can while it's all still assembled, it looks like the Philips/knife spring is a touch thicker than the scissor/hook spring. They also appear to be different shapes too. Do you think the Philips would still function using the scissor spring?
@@redbassist5590 I don't currently have a scissor layer on hand that I could play around with, but I did measure the thickness of the Phillips and the hook, and they are the same at the pivot. The shape seems pretty similar, but not exactly the same. If you built yourself a little jig to hold the layer before you reassemble (I do this in a couple of my videos) you would be able to see if you could make some adjustments to make it work, or maybe it will work just fine as is.
why does my old SAK Tinker Phillips screwdriver have a slot in it?
If I remember correctly, it's a key, the slot was intended to help open cans that have tabs on them.
In a Ranger can I take out all scissors layer with the opposed multipurpose hook, and ensemble it again? Also, is it easy to replace the corkscrew with the multipurpose hook?
It should be easy enough to completely remove the scissor layer, and you can reuse the pins because you are making a smaller knife, as long as you are careful.
I'm not 100% sure on the hook in place of the corkscrew. I am pretty sure they are different thicknesses, so you would need to adjust for that. I don't have one on me at the moment to confirm this, but all you need to do is measure the thickness of the tools as close to the pivot as possible and you will know if you need to thin it down or add a spacer.
@@JoshsShop Thanx for answer, man. I have a Handyman, that has both the corkscrew and the hook, and to me they seem the same thickness. If the thickness is the only criteria for replacement, then it can be done. Regarding the first question, then I can transform my Handyman in a 4 layers survival sak, without scissors and pliers. (I bought the Handyman for the pliers, but found out that I don’t like the weight in my pocket and the thickness in the hand. I prefer to have 2 smaller saks with me in different pockets, that also feel better in the hand). What do you think, could I add the remaining pliers from the Handyman to a Compact (making it a 3 layer)? I think, all I will need, is to buy longer pins. (the remaining scissors from Handyman can be put in a survival kit and used separately)
I don't see why you couldn't do that. As long as you can get the longer pins you need, then you should be good to go.
@@JoshsShop Ok. I saw some pin offers on etsy. How much longer than the final sak without scales should be the pins? 1 mm each side?
The pins need to be the width of the knife + the outside plates + the bushings + a few extra mm on each side. You then file the pins down to about 1mm wider than the bushings before peening them down.
Cadet X love it
84 mm !!!
I just purchased a SAK Hiker but I don't like it because the springs are too hard so I can only open the tools with a metal lever. My fingernails are not good enough. I've washed it in hot soapy water and sprayed WD40 into it and worked the blades open and shut but they're so dammed snappy.
Hmm, I have never had trouble with being able to open my Victorinox knives. Do you know anyone else that might have a SAK for you to compare too? Perhaps you got a funky knife (which would be surprising because Victorinox has such good quality control, but I suppose it happens).
@@JoshsShop I don't know any penknife nerds. My approach is to keep using it and I've found the plastic hook on tweezers and toothpick pull tools open fine.
Well, that is a nice work around. I wish I had a great suggestion for you, but SAKs do tend to be snappy.
Victorinox just needs a "build a SAK" option on their page.
Right!
Do you think it is possible to swap the corkscrew to a reamer on a "waiter"?
It should be, I think the tools are the same width at the pivot, but you would want to double check, you would just have a bit of an odd looking cut out in the scale where the corkscrew was sticking out.
I swapped a phillips screwdriver for the corkscrew on a waiter....If you are careful you can re-use the pivot. Be sure to get your reamer/awl from an 84 mm model.... like the small Tinker so it will be the right length.
Will you swap out a screwdriver for a cork screw for me? Please let me know
Sorry Steven, that isn't really something that I do. The aim of my channel is to help you learn how to do something like that yourself. I understand if that is something that you aren't interested in, if that is the case I know there are a few custom modders out there that will do something like that. I don't know of anyone to recommend personally, but a search for #sakmod somewhere like Instagram would probably be a good place to start.
@@JoshsShop thanks brother
How do you add the hook to an older Swisschamp?
You could scavenge the hook layer from a modern knife and add it to the champ, but honestly, it would be easier and not much more money to buy a used modern Swiss Champ if that is all you are after.
@@JoshsShop I didn't realize it's so cheap, even for a brand new one. When i bought it as a kid in 1990 it seemed like a fortune to me. In my memories it was about $100 in 1990 dollars. Did they get cheaper?
No it is still pricey, but adding a layer to a Swiss Champ will be a pain, that is a lot of layers. A sacrificial knife with the hook layer will cost you at least $20 used, likely a bit more. A used Swiss Champ can be had for $50-$60 if you are patient. So I guess a good bit more, but still might be a better route.
@@JoshsShop I'm in Europe, a new one is 75€ on Amazon, maybe it's cheaper here
@Emeric62 could be, they are between $100 and $115 USD
Can I replace the scissors with pliers
Those 2 tools have very different thicknesses. If you have the complete pliers layer to swap out for the scissors and completely disassemble the knife then yes, but you wouldn't be able to just take out one rivet and swap out the scissors for pliers.
I have a older Swiss Army knife that my wife’s dad gave me I have cleaned and oil and worked on it it’s bad the aluminum liners are nasty it needs to be took apart and replaced or cleaned would you be willing to help me I’ll send you the knife
Where do you buy your parts?
Other than the pins, which are brass rods from the local hardware store, everything is taken from a knife I disassembled. When there is a part I need, I look for a used Swiss Army Knife (or a lot of knives) on eBay and I wait till the price is right. Over the past several years I have amassed a small collection of spare pieces/parts this way.
Anybody here know if swapping the cap lifter/large flathead for the electrician blade on the Pioneer X would be an easy mod? Looks like it's the right layer thickness. I'm hoping this will work because I really like the Electrician but would like to add scissors and this looks like the easiest way to get there. Also I prefer the can opener to the bottle opener anyway. Thanks for the helpful video & tips!
I think that would be doable. You should be able to swap out the two tools. Assuming there is enough blade clearance without running into the opposite tool and the nail nick is accessible. You might also need to fiddle with the part that contacts the spring to get the proper fit. All doable if you have time, patience, and a few tools.
It would be similar to this video: ua-cam.com/video/nDDCIhJWuV4/v-deo.html
@@JoshsShop Thanks for the reply Josh! Would you happen to know of anyone that can do this kind of a mod as a service? I would be willing to pay for it. Appreciate the tips.
I don't know of anyone personally, but a search on Instagram for "sakmod" will likely get you going in the right direction. Be prepared though, mods are never cheap. That is why I figured out how to do a lot of this myself, and I made videos to help my fellow cheapskates. 😁 That said, I fully understand the desire to pay someone else to do the mod for you. I am sure a pro modder will be happy to have your business.
@@solidaudioTV Did you find a modder for this? I’m looking into similar mod work.
I NEED the raccoon skin
So did I, I thought it was pretty hilarious. You can still order the tinker model at:
www.smkw.com/victorinox-trash-panda-tinker
I think they also have a Classic SD model, but I didn't look.