HOW TO PICK THE RIGHT WEDGE / What Grind do I Need?
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- Опубліковано 30 лип 2024
- Golf wedges have some unique options to choose from. Head style, shape, offset, not to mention bounce and grind all impact how that wedge will work for your game. But how do you choose the right one. In this video we look at how to pick the right options for your new wedges.
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I’ve watched so many videos about wedges and bounce and grind only to still be confused…. This is by far the best video I’ve seen on the topic! Definitely have a better understanding now! Thank you.
The best wedge explanation and buying guide so far! You put it out so simple and practical to check which grind would fit me! Thx a lot!
The Mobile Clubmaker and TXG are the two best golf channels on UA-cam.
Thank you!
I heard Matt from TXG resigned!
This was a very good video but still I would love vid one step behind going over the anatomy of a wedge, naming things and explaining the correlations... got a bit lost during the grind part.
Those Cleveland cavity backs improved my short game by 4 strokes. Total confidence 100 yards and in.
Answered the majority of my questions regarding wedges. Great info! Thank you.
Great video - Lots of other stuff out there on UA-cam but its way to complex for the average golfer to understand. This was easy to follow and made total sense, just what i needed. Thank you.
Finally a damn video that explains wedges and grind. Thank you so much for taking the time making this video and making it easy to understand.
Very good video Ive been researching this stuff for years and I learned some new things
Good information and some good ideas to try out with my wedges.
The best video I've seen explaining wedges, thank you so much
This is an amazing video. I play a bit of pitch and putt, and have recently had a group of friends figure out how fun it is so I’ve been buying heaps of wedges for them to try.
Aaaaannndd now I'm grabbing my wedges and a sharpie. Thanks AJ!
That was a great video Ajay. I will try the sharpie on my wedges this week and see where I hit the bottom of the club.
What a great explanation! All technical areas explained in a very easy to understand way that relates specially to how a person plays.
Thanks. Hope it helps.
Don’t know how I’ve only just found your videos but they are superb and super informative, I get asked so many questions on grinds/ bounce. I will now be getting people to watch this
Welcome to the channel. Thanks for the support!
Great job with the explanation of the grinds…..I like a straighter edge on gap wedge for full shots and more of a C grind with lob wedge
Love M grind, hated K grind that sole was so fat and leading edge sat way too high but I’m a low single and I do open it up. M grind is a good happy medium mid bounce option for me. Good vid man love the knowledge!
Excellent video! Very well explained.
I had no idea how to Square the Faces of my old Roger Cleveland 53*/8 or 58*/8 wedges for years. This was Pre-WWW./UA-cam. I squared up the leading edge just like the rest of my irons and dug the ball out of the dirt😂 I didn't learn what the bounce was for or how to use it for decades. Much less where the "Leading and Trailing Edges," were located. My expensive local muni PGA Pro Instructor never mentioned that I wasn't using the bounce correctly in an entire year of weekly lessons. I think we should start a Online Petition to Demand that All Manufacturers of Golf Wedges Must Include Operating Instructions with every product they bring to market starting, 1 January 2023! A single Wedge sold today cost as much as I paid for my first Titanium Driver (Gary Adams' Taylormade #1 with the Revolutionary Bubble Shaft) ✌🏿
Very informative.
Will give the Sharpie a go !
This video was really informative! AJ thank you for educating me on the wedge grind aspect...it has been confusing to figure out.
Glad it helped. Thanks for supporting the channel!
thank you so much for your sharing attitude and great content.... i really enjoy your channel...
After some fitting what suited me more was less bounce at least in the 58 and indeed it suits me best and is the best club in my bag (58/04L). In part that relates to the the angle of attack and course conditions like sand and rough context as you mentioned. That being said I have more bounce on an all purpose wedge - so also depends what you use each wedge for. So on my 58 I rarely use for full shots but a lot for sand and flop shots etc. Similarly I always prefer the same shaft as my irons which has worked for me much better than the stiffer wedge shafts. The idea of testing using ink marks is great as I do on testing the right lie for your club too marking a ball.
This is a very good video. My problem is that I have been using a Cleveland CBX2 with 10 degree bounce and yet playing off of tight lies, I skull or thin the shots a lot. So I do not understand with a 10 bounce why I would be thinning it a lot. The Cleveland CBX2 has a huge sole on it and it may be the culprit. I have just order the Cleveland RTX Zipcore with 8 degree bounce and hope this helps. I think the sole on the Zipcore is not as wide as the CBX2. Can't wait to try it out. Thanks for the great videos! You explain things so good!
Thanks AJ. Appreciate the info and perspective. Personally I need all the help I can get in, not only wedges, but putter, irons, woods , driver also! ;-)
Hey, I've got videos for all those. At least as much as the club can do 😀!
Great content, super informative
probably the best explanation of bounce and grind on youtube. certainly the best I have seen. Appreciate your channel!
Great Channel AJ
Keep it up
I swear to god, this guy's videos should be playing at all brick and motor golf retail shops. The golf world has been over saturated with tech, and they've over complicated for your average player that most of this stuff is not geared towards. I work at a golf store, and it's gotten so complicated I can't even explain half this stuff. This guy does the best job at dumbing most of this stuff down, and taking out all the marketing bull crap and giving you the straight goods on the equipment. Especially since most golfers are just average players despite the fact they think they're on the brink of joining the tour.
Well presented and informative. Keep up the good work
Thanks for the support!
Great clear practical knowledge
What a great teaching.....🇿🇦
Great video. Having just spent the entire Covid year on my short game, I would echo everything you've said. You mentioned a specific word once in this video (Width) - a wider sole width is exceptionally beneficial for any non-Expert wedge player - wedges such as the Cleveland CBX2, Ping Glide 3, Mizuno ES21 Wide, Mizuno JPX, Taylormade Bigfoot or 15-degree bounce & Vokey K-Grind. 95% of golfers would immediately improve their wedge game playing one of these types of wedges. Having helped a large number of people this last year improve their chipping and pitching, the one thing I wish more manufacturers would do is put very heavy 130+gram (S400 etc) shafts in all wedges because I have never found one person who is learning the game, or struggling with their chipping & pitching, that doesn't immediately improve when you put a heavy wedge in their hands - it's just so much easier to swing a heavier club slowly and in a controlled manner in these types of situations. I'm also a huge believer in mid-sized +4 grips or at minimum +4 grips so that when you are choking down on the shaft while chipping you actually have something to grip onto. One final time back to heavy wedges with lots of bounce. I have recycled and given away to my partner, my mother, my daughter, sets of my old wedges - all with S300/S400 shafts and all with midsized Align +4 grips (these are all women that people would call small and petite) - and all of them love them so much and you wouldn't believe how well they chip with them - and also doing a lot of practice and helping people, I have had a number of other small & petite & older ladies try my manly heavy big grip wedges and they always love them and I recommend that they go out and buy exactly what I'm currently using - they laugh & often feel that if they go to a golf store and custom order it for themselves they will be looked down on and told they are crazy - I know 2 of them actually did order it as they have come up and shown me - and that wedge is a Mizuno T20 56-14 bent to 52-10 with the S400 shaft and a Midsized Align +4 grip - a big heavy wedge with slight heel&toe grind played at 52-degrees for around the greens - you will never find a better more useful wedge for pitching & chipping 85% of your shots.
Great point on the heavy shaft. Let the momentum do the work.
Great video . Soo helpful
Well explained.. learned alot.. thx
Great channel! My question is, what about leading edge? I’ve seen on Cleveland’s website that you can get the leading edge grinds in standard, sharpened, or standard. Outside the marketing gimmicks, how you you see these working?
Solid easy to use info... thanks
Thanks for watching!
Great advice and tips thanks. i had a vokey 60 deg I bought about 10 years ago and it had no grind at all, I really liked it. Then I lost it and replaced it with another one but didn’t realise the new one had a grind more suited to straight through swings whereas I like to lay the face open and use a fuller swing. I found I was thinning my wedges if I didn’t quite swing correctly...grrr. But then I found my old wedge again, regripped it and happy days are back. Now it is really getting worn so back looking again, maybe I will use a sharpie on the replacement wedge and get the angle grinder out?
Grinding your own wedges, that's a badge of honor!
Brilliant. Feel Helps take the mind off the ball
Excellent content, good thing with the sharpie. But I think to make sure first that your customized club have the correct lie is very important, also if you have customized lofts. I am on 2° upright with 0.25 additional lenght. If I play a standard lie the ink will wear off more on the toe side and give me missleading data and maybe maybe make me choose a wrong grind. Same with changed lofts. 1° difference in loft will change the bounce 1° accordingly. "Basic" fitting first then fine tuning the grind. Just my 2 cents.
Wedges are such a complex subject. Keep in mind that too much bounce can lead to thins as much as too little by pushing the leading edge up into the ball. We use wedges in so many situations, it can be difficult to figure out what bounce suits you best. I find a great way to test is to hit a small bucket of balls around the green a few times and see which bounce or grind gives you the cleanest contact and the tightest dispersion. My general guideline is to have more bounce and fuller grinds on wedges you use for full shots and less bounce on your highest lofted wedge where you will use it to create a variety of shots around the green. A higher bounce sand wedge gives you a tool to use in softer and deeper sand, while a low bounce 60 is great for firm sand and short sand shots. You really want both.
A wedge with too little bounce is going to be way more penal over it's life than one with too much.
I’m a sweeper but I like a wider side wedge (W grind) even off very tight lies.
Thanks AJ but can you follow up this please with a couple of player examples of real life wedge wear with what you adjust/suggest and how it improves the players wedge results?
Thanks. Another great unbiased video A.J. Any thoughts re shaft choice relative to your irons? Some say 10 grams heavier and one flex softer but I've seen the opposite advised and every permutation!!
Thanks Dave. I think either keeping same iron weight or going up slightly makes sense. Personally I just keep the flex constant but as you said, lot of people doing it different ways. I just don't think wedge flex plays much of a role in results so better to just stay consistent with the rest of the bag.
@@EFGMC No surprise that that just seems to makes total sense to me, like so much of your content! Thank you.
you are a godsend
grind that's cool man.
Just bought 2 wedges from 2 different manufactures. Love one and hate the other simply because it's the grind... Going to buy the other 2 of the grind I like and get rid of the other....
Big deal especially on wedges!!!!
I play 2 sets of wedges depending on the course and how wet it is. I usually play more versatile grinds so I can play lots of shots but they do dig more when the ground is really wet or after a rain. So in the winter or wet conditions I usually play a club with more bounce to help with that.
Question: I have a full set of Cleveland Niblicks 37, 42, 49 and 56 degrees. I play the old Bobby Jones -Jesse Ortiz hybrids at 21, 25, 30 and 35 degrees all in the lite shaft which is a senior type flex. The Niblicks are in various shafts some steel and some are graphite, as they were bought at different times, all are “wedge flex”, but I find them to be too stiff. I want to reshaft the Niblicks. What shaft flex would you recommend? I tend to hit the Niblicks to the right. I hit my hybrids very straight. Also I am 74 with a GHIN of 11.6.. Second question, where are you located as I would love to use you services and have you make the shaft changes? I live in Southeast Texas about halfway between Houston and Austin.
I would probably look at R flex as "wedge" shafts are usually pretty stiff. Would also want to see what the weights are in them and make sure they are consistent and inline with the weights in your hybrids.
I am in Atlanta, so bit of a drive. I do shipped work though so if you want to send them to me we could go that route.
If you are interested, email me.
aj@smartstake.com
Hi im from Argentina, I realy like your Chanel, and I thing this week I almost saw all your videos.... and I want to bough some clubmaking machines but I dont know if there are some pages for second hand machines, if you colud help me whit that I will be very thanksful.
Thanks for the support. Obviously eBay would be one option. It's hit or miss on finding things, but I have found some good, unique building tools there. You can also look at the tool manufacturer websites as they sometimes sell used/reconditioned pieces.
Honestly with a few exceptions, most club making tools can be bought or fashioned from basic hardware store supplies.
@@EFGMC thank you!!
Thank you, I know I need new wedges but WOW so many choices... really confusing
Volkey sw7 52 8 and 56 10
Have you made a video of making your own grinds?
Not yet. I don't keep a grinder on hand as I just have not had any real requests for such thus far.
What wear signs should we be aware of before thinking of replacing wedges?
Flattened out groves are usually what to look out for. Look for face browning as that is usually a good indication the grooves are worn down.
Any thoughts on the heavier feel of typical 60&56 degree sand wedges compared to typical gap or all wedges. I feel uncomfortable swinging my Cleveland sand wedges on fuller shots from 60-90yds than my gap from 80-100.
Might want to consider making some changes to get your SW and LW more in line with the irons, lighter shafts for example.
Can the wear of the marks you put on the bottom of the club not also indicate that you need a particular lie angle, ie, either more upright or more flat?
Yes it could, but I would probably defer to the vertical line check to decide if the lie is off.
helpful info for sure i just dont understand how any club could possibly be more or less "forgiving" for chipping, like you wont shank a chip if you dont strike center face so i dont get it
There is a great Rick Shiels video where he reviews the Taylormade TW wedge. This is from a few years ago now but it illustrates what can happen if you play a wedge that has the wrong grind.
Can you talk about the effect on the bounce if I bend my 56 degree 12 bounce Into a 54 degree and also my 60 degree 10 bounce Into a 58 degree? Have you seen any negative results from doing that?
Those are 1 to 1 relationships. Bending loft 1 degree stronger will reduce the bounce 1 degree. Usually 2 degrees either way will be okay unless you are starting with extremely low or high bounce.
My Wilson PW 48 and SW 55 both have 70g graphite shafts . You just feel the club head . Think Bryson has graphite wedge shafts. Don't see too many.
He does, though I believe his are 130g or somewhere close to it.
so you would recommend an F grind in terms of Vokey Wedge?
F is a good overall grind. Mid bounce. Assuming you aren't opening the face way up and playing on extremely tight lies, should be good.
Meanwhile all 3 of my wedges are blade style. I thought cavity back was only in irons! 😔
Would you recommend a certain grind for a club that is only ever used with an open face out of the bunker?
Would need to know what kind of sand you are hitting out of, fluffy or packed. Most bunker sand being somewhere in-between, I would go with something with more bounce and a rounded leading edge. Toe and or heel relief would be of less concern.
@@EFGMC Thanks for the quick response! Most of the sand I play out of is pretty firm and packed. The courses with soft fluffy sand are out of my price range 🤣
What is your thought on stiffer shafts for your wedges? I've heard arguments both ways. 😊
Stiffer shaft will usually result in less forward defection providing lower launch and higher spin. Down side is you can lose some feel if it gets too stiff.
Bounce is only your friend if you don't have a good short game, dry courses low bounce, wet courses high bounce
I have a very respectable short game and my 14 degrees of bounce on my 55 wedge isn't going anywhere.
@@EFGMC fine if the course isn't baked dry like 90% of links courses from mid May
Where are you located? Would love to have you fit me.
I'm out of Atlanta.
I use the sharpie to verify my lie is correct in my irons. Allowed you to see if after multiple rounds to confirm better than using the stickers on a lie board....
10:32 wouldn't this indicate lie angle not right, rather than grind
Only if I was hitting off flat level lies would I use this as a measurement of lie.
I don't consider a PW as a wedge. I consider it a 10 iron. It's made like the iron set, not a true wedge.
Agree. I group it with the irons though some people match their PW to the other wedges instead.
Shaky short game, get a lesson first.
Great explanation