Not a citrus grower, but I am an amateur drink mixer. *DO NOT THROW AWAY THOSE PEELS!!!* Immerse them in sugar for a few days, and the aromatic oils will be extracted into the sugar. Take the now moist sugar and hydrate on the stove just enough to make a syrup, and you'll have the most incredible orange syrup to use in drinks, on pancakes, in whatever you desire. Making some Sangria? Use that orange syrup for the best damn sangria you've ever had.
Candied citrus peel is AWESOME. Citrus are one of those fruits that you use the whole fruit, from the juice to the flesh to the peel. The fragrance is awesome. I'm not much of a drinker, but some orange or lemon based simple syrup is versatile. It's pretty good on some ice cream, too, for the non-drinkers!
Wow, such a gorgeous citrus plant. I appreciate your mentioning a place to get the starter plant from at the end of the video. I'm in zone 8b so this is definitely on my list as a new gardener. I wondered how you could grow it so close to the house considering foundation concerns but your explanation of it being a severe dwarf variety explained it well. Thanks and enjoy the harvest! P.S. Yes, Dale is extremely lucky.
I strongly recommend Stan. All my grafted citrus are from him. In fact, I just got a plant delivered today from him! He’s the best. To plant closely, you need an extremely dwarfing rootstock. Believe it or not, that tree is basically at its mature height. I am going to prune it back after harvest to encourage even lower branching. Satsumas “weep,” they don’t grow upright. They’re perfect for small spaces.
I bought the same tree from Stan McKenzie based on the videos I saw on this very same tree. I think I bought a 3 or 4 year old tree. I have mine in a pot and the second year I had two blossoms set and both dropped. Then this year it loaded up! I should have picked some off as they are somewhat small, but they make up for it in flavor! I highly recommend this tree and Stan is a nice friendly person that was willing to talk about his trees for a while on the phone and the prices were very good. I recommend him also. I want to buy a brown from him but I am waiting to see how the tree does on this channel. I live in 7B/8A about 135 miles north of Wilmington NC.
@@TheNCGardener Stan largely grafts on trifoliate, especially his satsuma's. The downside to trifoliate grafting is the trees creep along the first 2 seasons. They are not a vigorous rootstock, so they take 2-3 years to get going. Now that my Owari is on year 3/4, it is *booming!* Since my Brown's is only 6 months in ground, so if you're waiting on me, you may be waiting 2 more years. In my initial conversations with Stan way back when before this channel had 500 subscribers, I remember him saying to me, "Wow, you really want an Owari!" or something along those lines, almost as if he was trying to direct me toward Brown's. I can't remember exactly, but the general thought of Brown's is it is about equal to Owari in terms of fruit quality and cold hardiness, but it's 2-3 weeks earlier, making it more desirable for marginal climates like ours since it can ripen in November before the real freezes start. I know Tim Armstrong, the weatherman here in Wilmington, likes Brown's better. I guess what I'm trying to say is if you like your Owari, you really have no risk to get a Brown's. If you're waiting on me, you'll be waiting for a long time, unfortunately. My Owari's fruit wasn't good its first year. I was disappointed. Its second crop was much better, and this year's crop was out of this world. It seems they take 3-4 years to produce their best quality fruit. This year, they are absolutely UNREAL delicious.
@@TheMillennialGardener I have already contacted Stan about the morrow blood orange, He only has a Budd blood orange in stock. He did say they are grafted onto trifoliate rootstock so it should remain dwarf in a container and easy to manage. I am waiting for a little warmer weather. will probably pick up a Brown also. The pawpaws will be ready late spring. Looking for 2-4" of snow again tonight!
I want to say thank you very much for sharing what you know with us. I love how simple, focus and organized your delivery of all the info is. God bless you with good health as well as for Dale. You guys always make me smile, love to see how much you love your dog 🥰👍🙏❤
@@TheMillennialGardener You have no idea how much I look forward to seeing your videos. You are so enthusiastic and diligent and thorough with your work. I admire your dedication to put such quality work. You are a wonderful person with a kind heart I can tell. Blessings for you and your family as well. Enjoy your holidays!!! ❤🥰👍🎄🥧🙏👏👏👏
Thanks to you, we are going to see Stan The Citrus Man this weekend on our way to Pinehurst. I sent him an email to see if he had the Owari and the Brown Select in stock. He does but in 3 gallon size so they will be about $90. If I see him, I intend to ask him if he recommends potting the tree for the first year. I live in Zone 9B. I watched your planting video so should be good to go. I have a SE sunning spot picked out. It was where we had a beautiful old orange tree. Unfortunately, it was hit be lightning and died a slow death. It had the most delicious fruit! We are looking forward to getting some of that Owari fruit! Thanks for the great videos. I learned a lot from you.
I'm growing this outside in zone 7a! I've also got a Miho Satsuma which I personally recommend even higher than Owari. Miho ripens a month sooner so you're less likely to lose fruit to frost.
@@TheMillennialGardener no structure, I put mulched leaves up the truck above the graft point. I'm in East Tennessee. It's against my southern wall with a wind break next to it. I can cover it for a bad freeze if needed. The Miho has taken the cold better than my Owari so far but neither have damage. My limequat is next to it and it's still flowering and shows no issues either.
@@elyserhyne243 Hi Elyse, I have a fairly small Miho Satsuma on a pot and thinned all the fruit except for the and they look awesome! My question to you is when should one harvest a Miho Satsuma? I've heard the longer you keep citrus on the tree the sweeter it gets. They are starting to turn bright orange, but still has a hint of green on the rind.
@@hawklatino I've harvested mine when they're entirely bright orange. They can stay on the tree a long time so as long as a hard frost isn't coming you're fine. I pluck mine off one at a time to snack or grab a couple to squeeze for a drink. So I don't harvest all at once and just pick when I want one after they're entirely orange.
@@elyserhyne243 Thanks so much for the reply Elyse!! I appreciate you sharing your knowledge. I meant to say I thinned them all off except for 3 of them. Lol. The tree was so small and had like 30 fruits set and I was like there was no way this tiny tree can hold all this fruit (lol) so I thinned it. The 3 I left are fairly big, which I wasn't expecting. I thought they were a smaller orange, but they're fairly large. After I harvest the fruit I'm going to transplant to a 25 gal or 45 gal pot, not sure which yet. How big is your tree? How big of a pot do you have it in?
It was great meeting you, too! These plants are so much fun to grow. It's like a grocery store tomato versus a home grown tomato - it barely resembles the same fruit. They're so much better off your own tree.
I shouldn't be giving Dale citrus, but I know he can eat a wedge without harm as he has done so before. He used to eat them, but his tastes have changed a bit. He just loves being part of the videos and hanging out. I really lucked out with that boy.
I gave you some shit about your stance on using chemical fertilizers a few months back, but I’ve watched your recent videos on citrus trees and you really know what you’re doing! I’ve learned a lot and I’m resubscribed!
It's a misnomer to call them "chemical fertilizers." All fertilizers, synthesized or organic, are chemicals by classification. The synthesized products like MiracleGro and Jack's are still derived from real ingredients, like urea. The difference between organic and synthesized fertilizers is that organic fertilizers feed the soil and improve soil quality over time by bringing in worms and healthy bacteria and fungi, while synthesized fertilizers do not. Synthesized fertilizers strictly feed the plant. For these reasons, non-soluble organics are not very good for growing citrus in containers. Granulated organics are best for in-ground use. But, synthesized fertilizers still have their place to give your trees a boost during periods of high energy demand, such as before the seasonal flushes of growth and fruit. It's like giving them a multi-vitamin. The key to success when fertilizing is understanding the differences between different types of fertilizer and when to use them. They're not simply interchangeable.
Hi Millennial Gardener! I couldn't wait to see how well your Owari Citrus tree has prospered over the last 3 years! I remember when you did the first video about this tree, and wow, you have come a long way. I can clearly see that all of your techniques have been successful. As a result, I have 2 Owari citrus bushes from seed that a friend gave me 5 years ago, ( I plan to graft from my grafted bought Owari onto the seeded 2 that my friend gave me)and I bought one that is grafted 2 years ago. I think it was 2 years old when I bought it, so hopefully next year, I may see 1 or 2 fruit if I am lucky. Anyway, I have applied a few of your techniques here in zone 7b and like I said in a previous comment, so far, so good. I have mine located in a hoop house that I have constructed on the south side of my house and they are doing great. So once again, thank you so much for sharing. I love your enthusiasm about these citrus trees and I appreciate learning from you. You are truly a blessing and I know that whomever you share this fruit with, they will truly appreciate it and know that they do not come from a store! Keep up the excellent work!
Thank you so much. I really appreciate that more than you know. To say I've come along way is an understatement. I now have 5 trees in ground, and a 6th just arrived from Stan McKenzie today. That will go in-ground in the spring. What's funny is I don't even like citrus much. I never buy it from the grocery store, aside from lemons and limes for cooking. The home-grown citrus is just out of this world. I'm in love with the beauty of the trees, the fragrance of the flowers, and the difference in taste versus the store. Make sure you check out my water barrel video. It will really help you in Zone 7b in case we get a power outage during a deep freeze event and our incandescent lights fail.
@@TheMillennialGardener I finally got a rain barrel too, this year, 2023. It's a blessing here because it gets so hot! I am in Georgia, west of Atlanta. I will apply your watermelon techniques for small spaces soon. I love watermelon and thanks again so much for your videos. I will visit your Amazon store soon. God Bless you.
Congrats on that Harvest.They look fantastic.I'll definitely try growing one after moving to AR.lol Dale peeled it with his eyes.The Christmas lights keep them warm in the cold Peace from MN
You can definitely grow this in Zone 8 Arkansas. My climate is a bit milder, so keep that in mind, but it can be done. Follow my methods, pick yourself up a pickle barrel full of water for insurance, and you'll be stunned at the results!
Thank you! It's a stunner. There's something about citrus - the deep green leaves, the vibrant fruit, the fact that they give you food when everything else is in the garden is frozen...I just love the trees.
I’m thinking about plant a few of my citruses in the spring. I’m learning that myers and satsumas aren’t as sensitive to temperature but more so frost. Even my pink guavas have done fine
Myer lemons are frost-tolerant, but they aren't nearly as hardy as a satsuma. When mature, the Owari satsuma can tolerate temperatures in the 12-15 degree range if you have yourself a trifoliate-grafted tree. A Meyer lemon will never survive that. They'll start taking damage around 20F when mature. I will say my Meyer is very stout, and it tolerates my conditions no problem with incandescent lights and a plant jacket. I'm pleasantly surprised. My Variegated Pink Eureka lemon and Key lime are both dropping leaves due to the chilly nights, even though they've never seen frost or freeze because I bring them indoors on nights less than 40. The Meyer lemon couldn't care less and doesn't care at all into the mid to upper 20's. It is gorgeous. Same thing with my Excalibur red lime, Moro blood orange, Cara Cara red navel and Meiwa kumquat. They can tolerate 20's just fine for the most part.
My daddy always ate his oranges peel and all, and would just bite into it like an apple. We always wondered how he could do it since they are quite acidic but that's the way he liked to eat them. I'm in zone 7b but I'm going to order one of these from McKenzie and see how it works out.
where do you buy your Citrus tree from ? Wow, such a gorgeous citrus plant. I appreciate your mentioning a place to get the starter plant from at the end of the video. I'm in zone 9a so this is definitely on my list as a new gardener. I wondered how you could grow it so close to the house considering foundation concerns but your explanation of it being a severe dwarf variety explained it well.
Very nice. Are they in-ground or in containers? And what variety? In-ground citrus in the PNW behave differently if they’re sweet citrus. Because the summers are so cool, it actually takes 2 years of hang time to develop the sugars. That’s a secret tip! If you’re growing sweet citrus, I can give you some guidance. If you’re growing lemons or limes, that’s easy. They ripen no problem in PNW in normal time.
@@TheMillennialGardener I have owari satsuma, Washington naval, calamondin, tangelo, meyers lemon, key lime, nagami kumquat, nipon kumquat, finger lime, flying dragon, varigated kumquat, and pink varigated lemon. All are in pots ranging from 10-30 gallons.
@@muffininorbit I grow them in the harbor freight 10x19 portable garage with a few layers of vinyl. One layer over the top of the frame and another layer where the roof turns to walls flat above them. I also run Christmas lights on them as well.
@@TheMillennialGardener i can find Okitsu wase (Satsuma) And Miho Wase (Satsuma) Couldn't find awari not sure which one of these is your one if you have any idea thanks for your time all the best
I'm about an hour and a half north of you. Wilmington stays warmer than where I am at oddly enough. Wilmington and even Hampstead gets similar weather to Coastal South Carolina and Northern Georgia both of which grow Citrus inground successfully. Thanks for sharing! I bet home grown is so much better than store bought, especially right off of the tree.
The Wilmington/coastal Brunswick County area has a completely different micro-climate and totally different flora than the surrounding areas. Once you get 20-30 mins inland, things change dramatically. While I'm in a "cold spot" in this micro-climate, it's still warmer than the surrounding inland areas. Down by the Carolina Beach/Kure Beach/Fort Fisher area, that place is a crazy bubble. That is easily a Zone 9 there, even though the maps don't reflect it. I don't think they've even had a frost yet down that way. The stuff they have growing in the gardens at the Fort Fisher aquarium you won't find anywhere else in the state. It's very subtropical there. I can get by here in my eastern Brunswick County property making my own micro-climates up against my house and with water barrels, but on calm, clear nights, it's literally 10 degrees warmer down at the Kure Beach peninsula when you check the WUnderground weather station maps. It's crazy.
Please do. I make these videos for everyone to copy my successes and avoid my failures. You can definitely grow this in Atlanta if you follow my methods.
You're growing figs by seed? How so? You may want to watch my series on breeding figs if you''re not familiar with the process: ua-cam.com/play/PL1gY7BoYBGIHWDFykCI-TRAt-Gm45Wwyw.html In order to breed a common fig - one that will set fruit without pollination, which is necessary in Florida because there is no fig wasp to pollinate figs - you need to control the cross between a female fig and a mutated, persistent caprifig. If you are growing fig seeds from a grocery store, there is almost 0% chance that they will be crossed with a persistent caprifig. If you plant those seeds, they will all likely be caducous, which means they will not hold fruit without being pollinated by the fig wasp. That wouldn't happen in Florida. I have a fig breeding experiment going on, but I manually sourced a persistent caprifig to control the cross by hand. Even with this extra step, about 75% of my fig seedlings will be worthless, because they will either be male or caducous females, which won't fruit here. Planting figs from seed is generally a very bad idea. As for peaches, you can grow a peach from seed, but it may take a decade to fruit. It's a long-haul process growing from seed.
It's St. Padd's day in Orlando, FL and my Owari Satsuma is in full bloom. It went into the ground last year on 5 July. Can't wait to try the fruit from this one. FLm
They have a habit of fruiting too much too quickly. Don’t let it over-produce its first year or two. Be sure to thin it to only a handful of fruits. My first year, it only kept 4 and the fruits were just ok. Its 3rd year is when production really skyrockets and the fruit quality gets fantastic.
@@TheMillennialGardener Good to know. This is the first citrus I have grown. There was an old (60+ years) grapefruit that produced well one year after we got the house, but the tree was in serious decline and couldn't be saved. This tree is replacing that grapefruit.
That's great to hear! Depending on how close to the beach you are, you could be a little milder than me, or cooler if you live on the inland outskirts. Regardless, you should be able to grow what I'm growing with similar techniques!
Hello I know what you mean, I just planted an I ground lemon tree, I planted it against our brick wall her in Las cruces no which is sone 8 too - I even have 8 lemons on them - we’ve had days w 100F and higher, I just recently planted in the ground, it lost all its leaves but not the ripening lemons, and 12 days later it’s got small leave budding and coming out all over and it never dropped the lemons they’re almost completely yellow - I’m determined to make them grow here - where would Input the water barrels - love your beautiful trees - and with global warming we all may change zones, but not in our lifetimes perhaps _ thanks so much for your videos
It was great day to have found your channel. Your love for your work makes you a great educator. All the best, thanks for the channel! P.s. the best part is Dale!! ;) but truly love your content!
Building a house in Riverlights now, and one of my first tasks will be to plant a Satsuma tree. My father-in-law has a huge full size Satsuma in his back yard so I've always wanted one of my own.
It should work out well as long as you choose a southern exposure. Blocking the north wind and using the radiative heat of the house is important around here.
@@TheMillennialGardenerThe South side of my house is where my outdoor tankless water heater will reside. I may route the heat coming off that device into a cover for cold winter nights. Or maybe route the exhaust from a bitcoin miner rig :)
Likely nothing good. Likely either trifoliate, flying dragon, sour orange or something undesirable. Your best bet is to graft a new scion onto it once it warms up, or just pull it altogether.
All good info that I would not have thought of. After seeing your 2020 citrus video I bought a baby one for myself. A few years before its big enough to go in ground with protection.
@@TheMillennialGardener "Frost Owari" Satsuma Mandarin. I also have Meyer and Varigated Pink lemons, Thai and Key limes, Yuzu and Calamondin that I hope will bloom this winter. Newly purchased baby Myrtle Leaf Orange and Australian Finger lime.im hoping to track down a Flying Dragon for cuttings and grafting.
Do not hesitate! It's the pride and joy of my garden, and the taste is out of this world. Truthfully, I don't even like citrus much. I virtually never buy it at a grocery store, except for lemons and limes for cooking. Home-grown citrus is AMAZING, though. Totally different experience.
Most gardeners in the "Lower 48" can grow citrus in their warmest microclimate...if they don't mind thorns and (mostly) inedible fruit! Trifoliate oranges are hardy to something like zone 5 or 6, and their main culinary uses are making candied orange peel and citrus syrup. By "warmest microclimate," I mean a sheltered area next to a south-facing wall...I've managed to get two zones worth of wiggle room out of mine.
I have a trifoliate bush in ground, and 6 trifoliate grafted trees. I am going to cut my trifoliate bush down. They’re more trouble than they’re worth for me. A neat thing if you’re in Ohio, no doubt, but they are pretty...tricky. There are some varieties that can tolerate 0 degrees, like Yuzu and Dunstan grapefruit. They may be worth a shot if you’re 7a.
There are always container gardens. Citrus trees overwinter pretty well indoors, especially smaller fruited citrus like lemons, limes, kumquats and calamondins. They have less light demand.
Japan travels a lot of latitude. The north and south have wildly different temperature and rainfall patterns. Much of southern Japan is good for citrus.
In ground or in a container? You'd need a real enclosure in-ground, like a greenhouse with climate control, but in a container, it's not hard. They make good indoor plants with proper acclimation. The Russians used to grow citrus in trenches to take advantage of the warmth of the ground below the frost line, though. I bet something like this is feasible with shoring and covers: www.resilience.org/stories/2020-05-15/fruit-trenches-cultivating-subtropical-plants-in-freezing-temperatures/
Satsuma is my absolute favorite! I also have kumquats that produced like mad this year. My cara cara, ponderosa, Buddha hand, finger lime and key limes I added were too small for harvest this year but we are getting there! I also have another mandarin type that I can’t remember the name of which gave us around sweet 7-8 oranges. I love living in the south! (Philly PA transplant)
Where are you at? That’s a lot of citrus, so you must be south of me. I don’t miss Philly AT ALL. The ONLY thing I miss about living there is Moriarty’s, which has the best wings on the planet. Satsumas are fantastic, because not only are they so easy to grow and so cold hardy, but the fruit is incredible. They’re just delicious.
@@TheMillennialGardener so I’m 15 miles north of the gulf in coastal Mississippi- right above I 10, this is zone 9 but we do get pretty cold where the coast usually doesn’t get frost (we do). I make my own wings lol! I do miss the soft pretzel factory 😂. We don’t miss it either, just moved my mom down this summer.
Blue Java and Satsuma here in Aiken SC 8b and I'm hoping I can get them through the winter. Gonna stuff straw in the banana as you did, and I think I may need to bring in the satsuma first year.
I planted my Brown Select satsuma first year right away. We had an ice storm with a 17 degree low, then a snow storm, then it dropped to 14 degrees. That was all within a few days. The Brown Select sailed through no problem with just a water barrel and a frost blanket shown here: ua-cam.com/video/7iBohqx9ch8/v-deo.html It's too late to plant it in ground now, but I'm just making the point how much they can survive covered with some water warmth. In theory, you should almost never see 14 degrees since you're 8b but once every 10-20 years, so if I can do it annually, you can do it.
@@TheMillennialGardener Alrighty thanks for the info! I think I may try to get her in the ground before then, and use the methods in the vids. 👍 Thanks
That is a beautiful tree, Amazing that you can grow this in zone 8 (10 degrees) as its hardy to 15-20 degrees. I recommend this type too because of hardiness its unaffected by freezes to 20 degrees unprotected, but I Also have many semi and dwarf Citrus varieties, dancy, gold nugget, pixie, clementine, Minneola tangelo, valencia orange, Murcott, washington navel, cara cara navel, Rio red grapefruit,oro blanco grapefruit, Cocktail grapefruit( cross between a tangor and pummelo) Chandler pummelo, Lisbon lemon, Eureka, Lemon, key lime, bears lime, all growing unprotected in my yard, my key lime dwarf is 8 ft tall 8 ft wide, is 20 yrs old and had over 100 limes this year have made delicious lime ade, I have a dwarf owari too Its 20 yrs old, 7 ft tal 7 ft widel I have never had to protect it Or any of the other citrus I'm growing, I'm In zone 9 inland Empire Los angeles, I get coldest temp is Mostly lite frost to 29-30 degrees for a few hours in the morning maybe 3 times per year lately because of global warming, ,In the past a few bad years to 25 degrees but the citrus are unaffected because it only for 4 hours at the most, most Of the non tender citrus Oranges, grapefruit, tangerines, will even survive to 20 degrees unprotected once mature owari is a delicious fruit and cold hardy And gives a very good consistent yearly crop of 100 + fruits it has never done alternate bearing or few fruits it always produces a lot. I also planted a standard size Washington navel Orange, in my front yard from 5 gallon walmart its going on 3 years about 7 ft tall 7 ft wide.
I asked a seller what is the rootstock of the satsuma grafted tree wondering if it was the same as what you have since I live in zone 8a as well and she said it was propertiery information. Not everybody is transparent.
That’s precisely why I buy all my grafted citrus from Stan McKenzie. He will tell you. Check out his website. McKenzie Farms in Scranton, SC. All my grafted citrus is from him.
@@Love-is-the-answer for many, it is a business. If they feel their products are superior, they may want to keep it a trade secret. It is very hard work doing this for a living, and a lot of growers are one bad season away from bankruptcy. It is one of the hardest business models, and you have to really love it to do it.
Raleigh will be a bit more challenging than here in Wilmington, since we get around a 5 degree advantage at night and a bit more in the daytime, but it is doable with some protection. You may want to watch my water barrel protection method, and my strand light protection method. I have a viewer growing Meyer lemons for many years in Oklahoma, and satsumas are far cold-hardier, so it's definitely doable if you're willing to protect them for our fairly short cold season. Check these two videos: ua-cam.com/video/7iBohqx9ch8/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/62ZM615RBdc/v-deo.html
I wonder if building a raised bed with cement blocks would help hold the heat in during the winter? Would it be too much in the summer is the issue. I’m in central Va and would like to get into growing citrus.
I'm cooking some beef with citrus peel right now! Citrus peel is awesome grated in deserts, stewed with meats, you can even cook it down with sugar and water to form a flavored syrup 😀
I have an idea. I'm in zone 8a an just recently bought the artic frost satsumas. I have been debating whether to put it in the ground. I am going to try an experiment simular to your bricks, frost blanket and incandescent lights. I am going to use trash bags full of old clothes and stack them around the base of a frost sensitive plant. To see if I can create a micro climate to protect the inexpensive plant. If I can next year in the ground it goes. Stacking the trash bags like sand bags. 🤞 if successful I'll store the bags in one of our sheds an reuse them each year. 🤷🏻♀️ Lord knows I have plenty of old clothes. 😅
Have you seen my most recent winter protection video using pickle barrels? So far, the results are incredible. You can find these barrels on Craigslist for about $20-30, and it's a consistent 10 degree temperature increase.
Could I grow this one in a pot? Since I am renting in the Metro Vancouver area and we have a similar climate, zone 8b. I do not want to plant it on the ground and then have to disturb everything when I move.
Can these be grown in large pots and kept like a dwarf tree, and wintered in the house? I am from canada, zone 5. Our summers will be great for these and fall during the day, as long as i dont leave it out to be frosted in fall and bring it in during the night at fall and overwinter it inside, it should live right? Do they NEED a winter experience?
I live close to you in the Charlotte area, so similar weather. where do you buy your plants from? I want to add some citrus variety that i can grown in ground. please advise.
'Trifoliate orange' is also even more cold hardy, than 'Owari 874 Satsuma' is, meaning even if the 'Owari 874 Satsuma' were to die of the cold, the 'Trifoliate orange' might still survive, If the root stock is even less cold hardy than the 'Owari 874 Satsuma', then the death of the root stock could kill the 'Owari 874 Satsuma'. Also brick buildings are the best buildings to plant, plants up against for winter protection. They store so much heat from the sun, way more than a non brick house does. Do you know which 'Trifoliate orange' root stock McKenzie Farms and Nursery, used for your tree? Flying dragon? Or something less dwarfing? There are some 'Trifoliate orange' root stock that are still dwarfing, just not as dwarfing as Flying dragon. Here in zone 7b North Carolina we have a lot of pest problems with our in citrus in grow bags. Citrus leaf miners (remove a good portion of the leaves every year), black citrus aphids (one year there was a major infestation of them, luckily I have noticed them only one year), aphids go after the leaves here too. There is also one or two other things attacking the leaves every year, not sure what they are/it is. Here it can go down to 3 degrees Fahrenheit, every now and then. Here we'd need to have a heater for the colder days of each winter/spring, yet it would not need to be run much, only on the very coldest nights. I have thought about growing Satsuma in the ground here, yet I am not sure that it's worth it, or if I should just keep all of our citrus in grow bags, and bring them in for the winter. It makes way more sense in your climate to put it in to the ground. It is a beautiful sight to see a citrus tree, with delicious fruit on it, in the ground, in such a cold climate as yours. Speaking of Satsuma, there is another variety of Satsuma, that has almost identical fruit to 'Owari 874 Satsuma', and it's a little bit more cold hardy than 'Owari 874 Satsuma', the reason why I have decided to get 'Owari 874 Satsuma' instead of the more cold hardy variety is because the more cold hardy variety is disease sensitive, and I try to stay away from disease sensitive plants if I can.
Hey MG, Mark from Charlotte. Per one our previous conversations, I visited Stan and bought a owari satsuma, a xieshan satsuma and a variegated pink lemon. All bloomed profusely. Per your previous videos you said many blooms would drop to minimize stress on the plant, which happened. Do they later drop fruit for the same reason? On both satsumas, when many of the fruit reached about 1/2 in, they turned yellow and dropped. Now I have about six 1” fruits on the xieshan (4 ft tall) and a couple on the owari (3ft). Is this normal with the yellowing fruit? On another note, after shortly after bringing them out of the garage for the final time this spring, on both satsumas, I noticed some leaf yellowing with the veins still green, but looking closely I saw tiny tiny brown spots on the leaves, really tiny. Any first I thought disease, but I took a leaf to my microscope and found they were actually brownish red mites. I mean tiny, many times smaller than a fine ground pepper particle, hardly visible with the naked eye. I’ve been treating with an Earthtone insect product, seems kill them but they keep coming back. To me the leaves army healthy looking, not dark shiny green but mottled with yellow. Sitting beside them is a meters lemon with I’ve had for a couple yrs, and it’s leaves are better but not the shiny green it was this spring, but I’ve seen no mites on it. I have used regular miracle grow on all of them twice about a month apart. Any thoughts? Thanks!
I live in Zone 8b, Cave Junction Oregon, I can but the 'Owari Satsuma' in #5 can, #15 can or 24'' box. Think they would grow in my area? It just started to freeze here. Not every night only when its clear. Can I grow these in a container? Thanks! Not sure about the root stock. I''ll check in the morning.
Thank you. Absolutely, if you purchase a dwarf variety. I recommend getting one grafted on trifoliate rootstock, because it is heavily dwarfing and resists root rot. Citrus trees are highly prone to root rot, and trifoliate rootstock makes things easier.
When planting citrus, especially in marginal climates like ours, you generally want to plant them as close to last chance of frost as possible, because that gives them more time to establish before the freezes start. I've planted citrus this late, and they did well with significant winter protection using my water barrel method. If you plant citrus, you'll want to plant them ASAP. If you're planting deciduous trees like apples, pears, peaches, etc., it really doesn't matter when you plant them in our region, because our winters won't threaten their survival. Keep in mind if you plant any tree in the summer, you'll need to water it daily for a couple weeks and not let it dry out. Stress is highest due to the heat.
You'll have to keep it in a container. There is no way to grow a coconut palm in-ground in North Carolina. You can't even grow one in ground in Orlando! You won't find a single coconut palm even in the warmest, frost-free pockets of California. They can't tolerate any frost at all, and they need 80 degree temps year round with humidity, too. That's why they can't grow coconuts even in places like San Diego and Los Angeles. Even if it doesn't frost or freeze, it's too cold in the winter there. They've tried growing coconuts in California and they always fail. I only know of one currently alive in someone's yard in California, and it's the ugliest thing you've ever seen because it's sick trying to grow there.
I strongly recommend it! If you want the same tree I have that's grafted to trifoliate rootstock, get it from McKenzie Farms in Scranton, SC. He'll ship it to your door. A lot of online sites won't disclose rootstocks, or they're out of stock.
Believe it or not, there is a sizeable chunk of the PNW that has warmer annual minimums than I do. I'm only Zone 8a, and a pretty good chunk of Oregon and Washington is 8b-9a. However, my average temps are much warmer. We warm up a lot more during the day here on the coast. Parts of inland NC can get really cold, though, especially out west in the mountains.
It depends on your zone. Most Asian persimmons are only hardy to around Zone 7. If you're in Zone 8 or 9, the answer is probably. A dormant, deciduous tree in most Zones 8 and 9 should be no challenge to transplant, and winter transplanting during dormancy can be a good thing. If you're in a marginal zone, like a 7 or even a 6, that could challenge the tree some, I would wait until it gets warmer and transplant in early spring. You don't have to wait until your last frost date since the tree is easily frost hardy, but you will want to wait until the threat of Arctic outbreaks end.
My Sweet Satsuma Tree just arrived here in Tx zone 9 .. I wonder if this is the same kind as yours. Mine is about 3’years old grated tree. If I put it in the ground would I get fruits next fall? Also would It need another tree to pollinate? Your tree looks amazing. So impressive that you can grow in NC Thanks
There are many different varieties of satsumas, so it is unlikely it is the same. Owari is one of the most popular, so it's not out of the question, but it wouldn't be possible to tell without some type of origin tracing. Planting a satsuma in-ground won't necessarily speed up fruiting. It may actually slow it down, because the roots getting rootbound in a pot usually induces earlier fruiting. Usually, grafted citrus fruit either the very next season or the season after: 1-2 years to fruit. Mine fruited the next full season. It's very unusual that your 3 year old tree hasn't fruited if the scion wood was off a fruiting tree. I would suggest you make absolutely certain it is getting enough sunshine (8 hours or more direct sunlight a day), enough fertilizer (see here: ua-cam.com/video/uhZ6gslBoVw/v-deo.html), and ensure it is getting enough cold exposure in winter. The "spring flush" of flowers is usually a response to chilly winter temps, so it's important that you expose your satsuma to nights in the 30's and 40's. You don't have to let it see hard freezes, but it should be exposed to at the very least 30's, if not a handful of light frosts. It may not fruit if it's always warm and protected.
The best person to buy is Stan McKenzie at McKenzie Farms in Scranton, SC. You can either drive over, or if you call him, he will ship. He doesn't have an online store, so you must order over the phone. All my grafted citrus come from Stan.
Hey man, I'm out in WNC(Near Morganton), was curious if you have a source for a grafted tree like you used in the video? I've got the ideal situation and location for a similiar tree and would like to make progress on it this year
When you peel your home grown citrus don't forget to remove the sticker that's on it when you buy at a grocery store. The fruit grows with sticker already attached naturally
@The Millennial Gardener the sticker that comes on a fruit when you buy in a grocery store, it is also on your satsuma when it grows. It was supposed to be a joke but I worded it wrong and ruined it.
As long as you're Zone 8 and warmer, yes, but due to your cool weather, it may take 18-24 months for sweet citrus to ripen. One season may not be enough. plantmaps.com/interactive-united-kingdom-plant-hardiness-zone-map-celsius.php
This tree is from Stan McKenzie at McKenzie Farms in Scranton, SC. All my grafted citrus trees are from him. I recommend calling him and ordering if you need a tree. He will ship and often has good stock.
This tree is from Stan McKenzie at McKenzie Farms in Scranton, SC. I recommend going to his website and giving him a call. His trees are the best, and he has an enormous selection of rare things.
My grafted citrus trees are all from Stan McKenzie from McKenzie Farms in Scranton, SC. He doesn't do online orders, but he takes orders over the phone and will ship nationwide as long as you're not in a citrus quarantine state.
The southern facing side of my house gets alot of shade due to large existing trees. I have a garden in my back yard that gets full sun but there isn't a building to absorb and reflect heat. Would you say planting it on the southern side of a building is absolutely necessary to avoid freezing? I am also in NC
The southern side of your house is generally the warmest micro-climate in a yard, because of both the radiative heat of the house and the house's ability to block the north wind. However, fruit trees like citrus need a minimum 6-8 hours of direct sunshine a day to fruit properly. If the south side of your house is shaded, you'd need to remove the trees. If that isn't an option... 1. You could consider the east side of your house if it gets 6-8 hours of sunlight a day. You may need a windbreak on the north side. 2. You could manufacture your own micro-climate using pickle barrels, plant jackets and a wind break like I am in the rear of my yard: ua-cam.com/video/7iBohqx9ch8/v-deo.html The pickle barrels will act as a radiative heat source, similar to your home. Then, you can use north-facing trees to block the north wind, and use plant jackets to hold the heat in. It gives me 10 degrees of protection as shown.
This is a fairly normal size for most satsumas. Maybe slightly above average, but Owari is a later season variety of exceptionally high quality. The satsumas found seasonally at grocery stores this time of year are pretty consistent with this size. You may be thinking of a clementine, which are similar but smaller.
Yes. I recommend calling Stan McKenzie of McKenzie Farms in Scranton, SC. If you type that into Google Maps, you’ll get his info. ALL my grafted citrus trees are from him.
@@TheMillennialGardener Thank you for the info. I have two trees on the way. I am in 7b but I have a south wall and your method to protect them. Also I liked your vid on pineapple guava so I bought two. At the end of this year I will have about 30 figs. Thanks
That's just a trademarked name for a shiranui mandarin, or a "dekopon." Not all mandarins are equally cold hardy, and this variety is much less cold hardy, so it's not something I'd bother trying.
Citrus trees actually *do* grow well underneath live oak trees in Florida. It's proving to be a great way to minimize the effects of HLB. The bugs stay away from the live oak canopies for whatever reason. However, I still recommend making sure you survey the area and ensure it gets plenty of dappled light.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #1 НАЧАЛО ПУТЕШЕСТВИЯ [Новый сезон] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/380Q7gLWGvk/mqdefault.jpg)
Not a citrus grower, but I am an amateur drink mixer. *DO NOT THROW AWAY THOSE PEELS!!!* Immerse them in sugar for a few days, and the aromatic oils will be extracted into the sugar. Take the now moist sugar and hydrate on the stove just enough to make a syrup, and you'll have the most incredible orange syrup to use in drinks, on pancakes, in whatever you desire. Making some Sangria? Use that orange syrup for the best damn sangria you've ever had.
Candied citrus peel is AWESOME. Citrus are one of those fruits that you use the whole fruit, from the juice to the flesh to the peel. The fragrance is awesome. I'm not much of a drinker, but some orange or lemon based simple syrup is versatile. It's pretty good on some ice cream, too, for the non-drinkers!
Honestly this is probably the most useful comment I've ever seen in a comment section 👏 tips for growing and tips for drinking. Thank yall
You can also use them peels in your compost to produce a great soil
Outstanding!
Wow, such a gorgeous citrus plant. I appreciate your mentioning a place to get the starter plant from at the end of the video. I'm in zone 8b so this is definitely on my list as a new gardener. I wondered how you could grow it so close to the house considering foundation concerns but your explanation of it being a severe dwarf variety explained it well. Thanks and enjoy the harvest! P.S. Yes, Dale is extremely lucky.
I strongly recommend Stan. All my grafted citrus are from him. In fact, I just got a plant delivered today from him! He’s the best. To plant closely, you need an extremely dwarfing rootstock. Believe it or not, that tree is basically at its mature height. I am going to prune it back after harvest to encourage even lower branching. Satsumas “weep,” they don’t grow upright. They’re perfect for small spaces.
I bought the same tree from Stan McKenzie based on the videos I saw on this very same tree.
I think I bought a 3 or 4 year old tree. I have mine in a pot and the second year I had two blossoms set and both dropped. Then this year it loaded up! I should have picked some off as they are somewhat small, but they make up for it in flavor! I highly recommend this tree and Stan is a nice friendly person that was willing to talk about his trees for a while on the phone and the prices were very good. I recommend him also. I want to buy a brown from him but I am waiting to see how the tree does on this channel. I live in 7B/8A about 135 miles north of Wilmington NC.
@@TheNCGardener Stan largely grafts on trifoliate, especially his satsuma's. The downside to trifoliate grafting is the trees creep along the first 2 seasons. They are not a vigorous rootstock, so they take 2-3 years to get going. Now that my Owari is on year 3/4, it is *booming!* Since my Brown's is only 6 months in ground, so if you're waiting on me, you may be waiting 2 more years.
In my initial conversations with Stan way back when before this channel had 500 subscribers, I remember him saying to me, "Wow, you really want an Owari!" or something along those lines, almost as if he was trying to direct me toward Brown's. I can't remember exactly, but the general thought of Brown's is it is about equal to Owari in terms of fruit quality and cold hardiness, but it's 2-3 weeks earlier, making it more desirable for marginal climates like ours since it can ripen in November before the real freezes start. I know Tim Armstrong, the weatherman here in Wilmington, likes Brown's better.
I guess what I'm trying to say is if you like your Owari, you really have no risk to get a Brown's. If you're waiting on me, you'll be waiting for a long time, unfortunately. My Owari's fruit wasn't good its first year. I was disappointed. Its second crop was much better, and this year's crop was out of this world. It seems they take 3-4 years to produce their best quality fruit. This year, they are absolutely UNREAL delicious.
@@TheMillennialGardener I have already contacted Stan about the morrow blood orange, He only has a Budd blood orange in stock. He did say they are grafted onto trifoliate rootstock so it should remain dwarf in a container and easy to manage. I am waiting for a little warmer weather. will probably pick up a Brown also. The pawpaws will be ready late spring. Looking for 2-4" of snow again tonight!
I want to say thank you very much for sharing what you know with us. I love how simple, focus and organized your delivery of all the info is. God bless you with good health as well as for Dale. You guys always make me smile, love to see how much you love your dog 🥰👍🙏❤
Thank you so much! That means a lot to me. I’m glad the videos are helping you. Merry Christmas to you and your family!
@@TheMillennialGardener You have no idea how much I look forward to seeing your videos. You are so enthusiastic and diligent and thorough with your work. I admire your dedication to put such quality work. You are a wonderful person with a kind heart I can tell. Blessings for you and your family as well. Enjoy your holidays!!! ❤🥰👍🎄🥧🙏👏👏👏
@@mariap.894 thank you so much. That means a lot to me. More than you know!
Thanks to you, we are going to see Stan The Citrus Man this weekend on our way to Pinehurst. I sent him an email to see if he had the Owari and the Brown Select in stock. He does but in 3 gallon size so they will be about $90. If I see him, I intend to ask him if he recommends potting the tree for the first year. I live in Zone 9B. I watched your planting video so should be good to go. I have a SE sunning spot picked out. It was where we had a beautiful old orange tree. Unfortunately, it was hit be lightning and died a slow death. It had the most delicious fruit! We are looking forward to getting some of that Owari fruit! Thanks for the great videos. I learned a lot from you.
I'm growing this outside in zone 7a! I've also got a Miho Satsuma which I personally recommend even higher than Owari. Miho ripens a month sooner so you're less likely to lose fruit to frost.
I've heard good things about Miho. I don't think it's as cold hardy, though. Where are you located? Do you build a structure around it?
@@TheMillennialGardener no structure, I put mulched leaves up the truck above the graft point. I'm in East Tennessee. It's against my southern wall with a wind break next to it. I can cover it for a bad freeze if needed. The Miho has taken the cold better than my Owari so far but neither have damage. My limequat is next to it and it's still flowering and shows no issues either.
@@elyserhyne243 Hi Elyse, I have a fairly small Miho Satsuma on a pot and thinned all the fruit except for the and they look awesome! My question to you is when should one harvest a Miho Satsuma? I've heard the longer you keep citrus on the tree the sweeter it gets. They are starting to turn bright orange, but still has a hint of green on the rind.
@@hawklatino I've harvested mine when they're entirely bright orange. They can stay on the tree a long time so as long as a hard frost isn't coming you're fine. I pluck mine off one at a time to snack or grab a couple to squeeze for a drink. So I don't harvest all at once and just pick when I want one after they're entirely orange.
@@elyserhyne243 Thanks so much for the reply Elyse!! I appreciate you sharing your knowledge. I meant to say I thinned them all off except for 3 of them. Lol. The tree was so small and had like 30 fruits set and I was like there was no way this tiny tree can hold all this fruit (lol) so I thinned it. The 3 I left are fairly big, which I wasn't expecting. I thought they were a smaller orange, but they're fairly large.
After I harvest the fruit I'm going to transplant to a 25 gal or 45 gal pot, not sure which yet. How big is your tree? How big of a pot do you have it in?
It was so great meeting you tonight! I'm so ready to learn all about growing citrus from you. ☺️
It was great meeting you, too! These plants are so much fun to grow. It's like a grocery store tomato versus a home grown tomato - it barely resembles the same fruit. They're so much better off your own tree.
I'm really thankful I found your channel. I've been trying to find zone 8A gardeners and here you are. Thank you for all the great information!
He looks so angelical when he’s resting. I look forward to adventures with Dale🥰
He really is an angel. We are blessed to have him.
Aww. I loved that take with Dale! And your video was great! Thank you! 😁👍
I shouldn't be giving Dale citrus, but I know he can eat a wedge without harm as he has done so before. He used to eat them, but his tastes have changed a bit. He just loves being part of the videos and hanging out. I really lucked out with that boy.
I gave you some shit about your stance on using chemical fertilizers a few months back, but I’ve watched your recent videos on citrus trees and you really know what you’re doing! I’ve learned a lot and I’m resubscribed!
It's a misnomer to call them "chemical fertilizers." All fertilizers, synthesized or organic, are chemicals by classification. The synthesized products like MiracleGro and Jack's are still derived from real ingredients, like urea. The difference between organic and synthesized fertilizers is that organic fertilizers feed the soil and improve soil quality over time by bringing in worms and healthy bacteria and fungi, while synthesized fertilizers do not. Synthesized fertilizers strictly feed the plant.
For these reasons, non-soluble organics are not very good for growing citrus in containers. Granulated organics are best for in-ground use. But, synthesized fertilizers still have their place to give your trees a boost during periods of high energy demand, such as before the seasonal flushes of growth and fruit. It's like giving them a multi-vitamin.
The key to success when fertilizing is understanding the differences between different types of fertilizer and when to use them. They're not simply interchangeable.
Hi Millennial Gardener! I couldn't wait to see how well your Owari Citrus tree has prospered over the last 3 years! I remember when you did the first video about this tree, and wow, you have come a long way. I can clearly see that all of your techniques have been successful. As a result, I have 2 Owari citrus bushes from seed that a friend gave me 5 years ago, ( I plan to graft from my grafted bought Owari onto the seeded 2 that my friend gave me)and I bought one that is grafted 2 years ago. I think it was 2 years old when I bought it, so hopefully next year, I may see 1 or 2 fruit if I am lucky. Anyway, I have applied a few of your techniques here in zone 7b and like I said in a previous comment, so far, so good. I have mine located in a hoop house that I have constructed on the south side of my house and they are doing great. So once again, thank you so much for sharing. I love your enthusiasm about these citrus trees and I appreciate learning from you. You are truly a blessing and I know that whomever you share this fruit with, they will truly appreciate it and know that they do not come from a store! Keep up the excellent work!
Thank you so much. I really appreciate that more than you know. To say I've come along way is an understatement. I now have 5 trees in ground, and a 6th just arrived from Stan McKenzie today. That will go in-ground in the spring. What's funny is I don't even like citrus much. I never buy it from the grocery store, aside from lemons and limes for cooking. The home-grown citrus is just out of this world. I'm in love with the beauty of the trees, the fragrance of the flowers, and the difference in taste versus the store. Make sure you check out my water barrel video. It will really help you in Zone 7b in case we get a power outage during a deep freeze event and our incandescent lights fail.
@@TheMillennialGardener I finally got a rain barrel too, this year, 2023. It's a blessing here because it gets so hot! I am in Georgia, west of Atlanta. I will apply your watermelon techniques for small spaces soon. I love watermelon and thanks again so much for your videos. I will visit your Amazon store soon. God Bless you.
Congrats on that Harvest.They look fantastic.I'll definitely try growing one after moving to AR.lol Dale peeled it with his eyes.The Christmas lights keep them warm in the cold Peace from MN
You can definitely grow this in Zone 8 Arkansas. My climate is a bit milder, so keep that in mind, but it can be done. Follow my methods, pick yourself up a pickle barrel full of water for insurance, and you'll be stunned at the results!
Another fantastic video full of great information. Best wishes from Ireland 🇮🇪
Thank you! I appreciate it! Thank you for watching from across the pond.
Gorgeous tree! Thanks for the vid. I also agree that citrus is amazing in the garden. Definitely a conversation starter.
Thank you! It's a stunner. There's something about citrus - the deep green leaves, the vibrant fruit, the fact that they give you food when everything else is in the garden is frozen...I just love the trees.
I used to have one much further inland. It can definitely be done. Nice results.
Can I ask why you don't have it anymore? Did you relocate?
@@TheMillennialGardener Yes. I had to move for the job. That is the only reason.
😅😅😅The dog listens to the lesson well, haha
I noticed the water storage containers in the background. Please consider making a video on how you set these up. Thanks!
I have detailed, organized playlists documenting all these things: ua-cam.com/play/PL1gY7BoYBGIHHHsx0JPcYgD4xXzA96usL.html&si=OTed07FM2EJv-CHX
I’m thinking about plant a few of my citruses in the spring. I’m learning that myers and satsumas aren’t as sensitive to temperature but more so frost. Even my pink guavas have done fine
Myer lemons are frost-tolerant, but they aren't nearly as hardy as a satsuma. When mature, the Owari satsuma can tolerate temperatures in the 12-15 degree range if you have yourself a trifoliate-grafted tree. A Meyer lemon will never survive that. They'll start taking damage around 20F when mature. I will say my Meyer is very stout, and it tolerates my conditions no problem with incandescent lights and a plant jacket. I'm pleasantly surprised. My Variegated Pink Eureka lemon and Key lime are both dropping leaves due to the chilly nights, even though they've never seen frost or freeze because I bring them indoors on nights less than 40. The Meyer lemon couldn't care less and doesn't care at all into the mid to upper 20's. It is gorgeous. Same thing with my Excalibur red lime, Moro blood orange, Cara Cara red navel and Meiwa kumquat. They can tolerate 20's just fine for the most part.
My daddy always ate his oranges peel and all, and would just bite into it like an apple. We always wondered how he could do it since they are quite acidic but that's the way he liked to eat them. I'm in zone 7b but I'm going to order one of these from McKenzie and see how it works out.
where do you buy your Citrus tree from ? Wow, such a gorgeous citrus plant. I appreciate your mentioning a place to get the starter plant from at the end of the video. I'm in zone 9a so this is definitely on my list as a new gardener. I wondered how you could grow it so close to the house considering foundation concerns but your explanation of it being a severe dwarf variety explained it well.
I have two in Tacoma Washington and this is the first year I'm getting fruit! About 24 fruits between the two
I’m about to plant in Portland! How much protection do you use??
Very nice. Are they in-ground or in containers? And what variety? In-ground citrus in the PNW behave differently if they’re sweet citrus. Because the summers are so cool, it actually takes 2 years of hang time to develop the sugars. That’s a secret tip! If you’re growing sweet citrus, I can give you some guidance. If you’re growing lemons or limes, that’s easy. They ripen no problem in PNW in normal time.
@@TheMillennialGardener I have owari satsuma, Washington naval, calamondin, tangelo, meyers lemon, key lime, nagami kumquat, nipon kumquat, finger lime, flying dragon, varigated kumquat, and pink varigated lemon. All are in pots ranging from 10-30 gallons.
@@muffininorbit I grow them in the harbor freight 10x19 portable garage with a few layers of vinyl. One layer over the top of the frame and another layer where the roof turns to walls flat above them. I also run Christmas lights on them as well.
@@TheMillennialGardener the owari satsuma, meyers lemon, and nagami kumquat are all fruiting for me this year.
Thanks so much yummy its looks so tasty with skin really enjoyed all your videos regards from Sydney Australia
Thank you! This will grow fantastic in Sydney. Sydney is a fantastic climate for citrus. If you can find the Owari satsuma, definitely get one!
@@TheMillennialGardener i can find Okitsu wase (Satsuma)
And Miho Wase (Satsuma)
Couldn't find awari not sure which one of these is your one if you have any idea thanks for your time all the best
I'm about an hour and a half north of you. Wilmington stays warmer than where I am at oddly enough. Wilmington and even Hampstead gets similar weather to Coastal South Carolina and Northern Georgia both of which grow Citrus inground successfully. Thanks for sharing! I bet home grown is so much better than store bought, especially right off of the tree.
The Wilmington/coastal Brunswick County area has a completely different micro-climate and totally different flora than the surrounding areas. Once you get 20-30 mins inland, things change dramatically. While I'm in a "cold spot" in this micro-climate, it's still warmer than the surrounding inland areas. Down by the Carolina Beach/Kure Beach/Fort Fisher area, that place is a crazy bubble. That is easily a Zone 9 there, even though the maps don't reflect it. I don't think they've even had a frost yet down that way. The stuff they have growing in the gardens at the Fort Fisher aquarium you won't find anywhere else in the state. It's very subtropical there. I can get by here in my eastern Brunswick County property making my own micro-climates up against my house and with water barrels, but on calm, clear nights, it's literally 10 degrees warmer down at the Kure Beach peninsula when you check the WUnderground weather station maps. It's crazy.
Thank you for the sourcing info. Perfect timing as I will be in the Myrtle Beach area next week so I can day trip to Mckenzie Farm.
I'm not very far from you in VA, zone 7b, i might have to try this!
I really need to copy your methods here in Atlanta!
Please do. I make these videos for everyone to copy my successes and avoid my failures. You can definitely grow this in Atlanta if you follow my methods.
I live in north Florida I just bought four of these plants I grown my others trees by seed including my fig trees and peach trees all frowning well
You're growing figs by seed? How so? You may want to watch my series on breeding figs if you''re not familiar with the process: ua-cam.com/play/PL1gY7BoYBGIHWDFykCI-TRAt-Gm45Wwyw.html
In order to breed a common fig - one that will set fruit without pollination, which is necessary in Florida because there is no fig wasp to pollinate figs - you need to control the cross between a female fig and a mutated, persistent caprifig. If you are growing fig seeds from a grocery store, there is almost 0% chance that they will be crossed with a persistent caprifig. If you plant those seeds, they will all likely be caducous, which means they will not hold fruit without being pollinated by the fig wasp. That wouldn't happen in Florida.
I have a fig breeding experiment going on, but I manually sourced a persistent caprifig to control the cross by hand. Even with this extra step, about 75% of my fig seedlings will be worthless, because they will either be male or caducous females, which won't fruit here. Planting figs from seed is generally a very bad idea. As for peaches, you can grow a peach from seed, but it may take a decade to fruit. It's a long-haul process growing from seed.
It's St. Padd's day in Orlando, FL and my Owari Satsuma is in full bloom. It went into the ground last year on 5 July. Can't wait to try the fruit from this one.
FLm
They have a habit of fruiting too much too quickly. Don’t let it over-produce its first year or two. Be sure to thin it to only a handful of fruits. My first year, it only kept 4 and the fruits were just ok. Its 3rd year is when production really skyrockets and the fruit quality gets fantastic.
@@TheMillennialGardener Good to know. This is the first citrus I have grown. There was an old (60+ years) grapefruit that produced well one year after we got the house, but the tree was in serious decline and couldn't be saved. This tree is replacing that grapefruit.
Awesome. We are in Horry County South Carolina glad to find you, we are brand new gardeners.
That's great to hear! Depending on how close to the beach you are, you could be a little milder than me, or cooler if you live on the inland outskirts. Regardless, you should be able to grow what I'm growing with similar techniques!
Hello I know what you mean, I just planted an I ground lemon tree, I planted it against our brick wall her in Las cruces no which is sone 8 too - I even have 8 lemons on them - we’ve had days w 100F and higher, I just recently planted in the ground, it lost all its leaves but not the ripening lemons, and 12 days later it’s got small leave budding and coming out all over and it never dropped the lemons they’re almost completely yellow - I’m determined to make them grow here - where would Input the water barrels - love your beautiful trees - and with global warming we all may change zones, but not in our lifetimes perhaps _ thanks so much for your videos
It was great day to have found your channel. Your love for your work makes you a great educator. All the best, thanks for the channel! P.s. the best part is Dale!! ;) but truly love your content!
Thank you so much! I really appreciate that, and I'm glad you're enjoying the channel. Dale says hi! 🐕
Building a house in Riverlights now, and one of my first tasks will be to plant a Satsuma tree. My father-in-law has a huge full size Satsuma in his back yard so I've always wanted one of my own.
It should work out well as long as you choose a southern exposure. Blocking the north wind and using the radiative heat of the house is important around here.
@@TheMillennialGardenerThe South side of my house is where my outdoor tankless water heater will reside. I may route the heat coming off that device into a cover for cold winter nights. Or maybe route the exhaust from a bitcoin miner rig :)
Old creek produce would love to trade citrus cutting with you!!!
That is amazing!! I had a Meyer lemon but I left it out in the cold...so now it resprouted out from below the graft...not sure what that will give me.
Likely nothing good. Likely either trifoliate, flying dragon, sour orange or something undesirable. Your best bet is to graft a new scion onto it once it warms up, or just pull it altogether.
@@TheMillennialGardener that's what I was thinking...thanks
All good info that I would not have thought of. After seeing your 2020 citrus video I bought a baby one for myself. A few years before its big enough to go in ground with protection.
Nice! What variety did you get?
@@TheMillennialGardener "Frost Owari" Satsuma Mandarin. I also have Meyer and Varigated Pink lemons, Thai and Key limes, Yuzu and Calamondin that I hope will bloom this winter. Newly purchased baby Myrtle Leaf Orange and Australian Finger lime.im hoping to track down a Flying Dragon for cuttings and grafting.
I’m sooooo getting one!!!
Do not hesitate! It's the pride and joy of my garden, and the taste is out of this world. Truthfully, I don't even like citrus much. I virtually never buy it at a grocery store, except for lemons and limes for cooking. Home-grown citrus is AMAZING, though. Totally different experience.
Most gardeners in the "Lower 48" can grow citrus in their warmest microclimate...if they don't mind thorns and (mostly) inedible fruit! Trifoliate oranges are hardy to something like zone 5 or 6, and their main culinary uses are making candied orange peel and citrus syrup.
By "warmest microclimate," I mean a sheltered area next to a south-facing wall...I've managed to get two zones worth of wiggle room out of mine.
I have a trifoliate bush in ground, and 6 trifoliate grafted trees. I am going to cut my trifoliate bush down. They’re more trouble than they’re worth for me. A neat thing if you’re in Ohio, no doubt, but they are pretty...tricky. There are some varieties that can tolerate 0 degrees, like Yuzu and Dunstan grapefruit. They may be worth a shot if you’re 7a.
STRONG WORK 😎😎😎
Thank you!
I cry in zone 4B....
There are always container gardens. Citrus trees overwinter pretty well indoors, especially smaller fruited citrus like lemons, limes, kumquats and calamondins. They have less light demand.
Awesome content... I enjoy my satsuma trees. I have the owari, brown select , la early and the arctic frost. They are all delicious. I'm in TX.
Japan has cold weather I expected these to fruit.
Japan travels a lot of latitude. The north and south have wildly different temperature and rainfall patterns. Much of southern Japan is good for citrus.
I'm trying to grow citrus in Nebraska. I'm doing this on hard mode.
In ground or in a container? You'd need a real enclosure in-ground, like a greenhouse with climate control, but in a container, it's not hard. They make good indoor plants with proper acclimation. The Russians used to grow citrus in trenches to take advantage of the warmth of the ground below the frost line, though. I bet something like this is feasible with shoring and covers: www.resilience.org/stories/2020-05-15/fruit-trenches-cultivating-subtropical-plants-in-freezing-temperatures/
Satsuma is my absolute favorite! I also have kumquats that produced like mad this year. My cara cara, ponderosa, Buddha hand, finger lime and key limes I added were too small for harvest this year but we are getting there! I also have another mandarin type that I can’t remember the name of which gave us around sweet 7-8 oranges. I love living in the south! (Philly PA transplant)
Where are you at? That’s a lot of citrus, so you must be south of me. I don’t miss Philly AT ALL. The ONLY thing I miss about living there is Moriarty’s, which has the best wings on the planet.
Satsumas are fantastic, because not only are they so easy to grow and so cold hardy, but the fruit is incredible. They’re just delicious.
@@TheMillennialGardener so I’m 15 miles north of the gulf in coastal Mississippi- right above I 10, this is zone 9 but we do get pretty cold where the coast usually doesn’t get frost (we do).
I make my own wings lol! I do miss the soft pretzel factory 😂. We don’t miss it either, just moved my mom down this summer.
Blue Java and Satsuma here in Aiken SC 8b and I'm hoping I can get them through the winter. Gonna stuff straw in the banana as you did, and I think I may need to bring in the satsuma first year.
I planted my Brown Select satsuma first year right away. We had an ice storm with a 17 degree low, then a snow storm, then it dropped to 14 degrees. That was all within a few days. The Brown Select sailed through no problem with just a water barrel and a frost blanket shown here: ua-cam.com/video/7iBohqx9ch8/v-deo.html
It's too late to plant it in ground now, but I'm just making the point how much they can survive covered with some water warmth. In theory, you should almost never see 14 degrees since you're 8b but once every 10-20 years, so if I can do it annually, you can do it.
@@TheMillennialGardener Alrighty thanks for the info! I think I may try to get her in the ground before then, and use the methods in the vids. 👍 Thanks
Good. Job. And. Dale
Thank you!
That is a beautiful tree, Amazing that you can grow this in zone 8 (10 degrees) as its hardy to 15-20 degrees. I recommend this type too because of hardiness its unaffected by freezes to 20 degrees unprotected, but I Also have many semi and dwarf Citrus varieties, dancy, gold nugget, pixie, clementine, Minneola tangelo, valencia orange, Murcott, washington navel, cara cara navel, Rio red grapefruit,oro blanco grapefruit, Cocktail grapefruit( cross between a tangor and pummelo) Chandler pummelo, Lisbon lemon, Eureka, Lemon, key lime, bears lime, all growing unprotected in my yard, my key lime dwarf is 8 ft tall 8 ft wide, is 20 yrs old and had over 100 limes this year have made delicious lime ade, I have a dwarf owari too Its 20 yrs old, 7 ft tal 7 ft widel I have never had to protect it Or any of the other citrus I'm growing, I'm In zone 9 inland Empire Los angeles, I get coldest temp is Mostly lite frost to 29-30 degrees for a few hours in the morning maybe 3 times per year lately because of global warming, ,In the past a few bad years to 25 degrees but the citrus are unaffected because it only for 4 hours at the most, most Of the non tender citrus Oranges, grapefruit, tangerines, will even survive to 20 degrees unprotected once mature owari is a delicious fruit and cold hardy And gives a very good consistent yearly crop of 100 + fruits it has never done alternate bearing or few fruits it always produces a lot. I also planted a standard size Washington navel Orange, in my front yard from 5 gallon walmart its going on 3 years about 7 ft tall 7 ft wide.
I forgot I also have improved Meyer lemon I have so many citrus that I forget what I have same as my 13+ avocado trees lol
LOL "because of global warming" good one!
Oh, wait I see you are from California, you weren't joking, you really believe that. My apologies.
I asked a seller what is the rootstock of the satsuma grafted tree wondering if it was the same as what you have since I live in zone 8a as well and she said it was propertiery information. Not everybody is transparent.
That’s precisely why I buy all my grafted citrus from Stan McKenzie. He will tell you. Check out his website. McKenzie Farms in Scranton, SC. All my grafted citrus is from him.
Thank you. I don’t understand how people can we secretive about gardening. It’s helping everyone.
@@Love-is-the-answer for many, it is a business. If they feel their products are superior, they may want to keep it a trade secret. It is very hard work doing this for a living, and a lot of growers are one bad season away from bankruptcy. It is one of the hardest business models, and you have to really love it to do it.
Mmm 😋 I’m in Raleigh 7b and definitely intrigued.
Raleigh will be a bit more challenging than here in Wilmington, since we get around a 5 degree advantage at night and a bit more in the daytime, but it is doable with some protection. You may want to watch my water barrel protection method, and my strand light protection method. I have a viewer growing Meyer lemons for many years in Oklahoma, and satsumas are far cold-hardier, so it's definitely doable if you're willing to protect them for our fairly short cold season. Check these two videos:
ua-cam.com/video/7iBohqx9ch8/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/62ZM615RBdc/v-deo.html
I wonder if building a raised bed with cement blocks would help hold the heat in during the winter? Would it be too much in the summer is the issue. I’m in central Va and would like to get into growing citrus.
IMPRESSIVE!!!!!
Thank you!
Nice, we have harvested almost every mandarin from our tree,
Outstanding! I love how early they are and how long they can hang on a tree for a delayed harvest.
@@TheMillennialGardener yes
@@TheMillennialGardener but don't let spring arrive or the fruit is dry and tasteless
Dude. You helped me with the figs and now I'm thinking about Satsuma in Franklin, TN (7a). Can you share the contact info for where you got the tree?
The peels can be dried and added in some soup for the fragrance.
I'm cooking some beef with citrus peel right now! Citrus peel is awesome grated in deserts, stewed with meats, you can even cook it down with sugar and water to form a flavored syrup 😀
Your tree is gorgeous!! 😍
Thank you! I appreciate it!
I have an idea. I'm in zone 8a an just recently bought the artic frost satsumas. I have been debating whether to put it in the ground. I am going to try an experiment simular to your bricks, frost blanket and incandescent lights. I am going to use trash bags full of old clothes and stack them around the base of a frost sensitive plant. To see if I can create a micro climate to protect the inexpensive plant. If I can next year in the ground it goes. Stacking the trash bags like sand bags. 🤞 if successful I'll store the bags in one of our sheds an reuse them each year. 🤷🏻♀️ Lord knows I have plenty of old clothes. 😅
Have you seen my most recent winter protection video using pickle barrels? So far, the results are incredible. You can find these barrels on Craigslist for about $20-30, and it's a consistent 10 degree temperature increase.
@@TheMillennialGardenerI haven't. I'll have to look it up an watch. TY
Could I grow this one in a pot? Since I am renting in the Metro Vancouver area and we have a similar climate, zone 8b. I do not want to plant it on the ground and then have to disturb everything when I move.
How do you fertilizer inground citrus trees?
Thanks for the excellent video. Any recommendation on fruit tree varieties for Sweet Cherry, Pomegranate, and Apple that grow well in our NC
can you juice them? How many fruits would you need to lets say a gallon?
Is this possible in zone 8a? The only problem I could see would be the clay soil we have here in Georgia
Can these be grown in large pots and kept like a dwarf tree, and wintered in the house? I am from canada, zone 5. Our summers will be great for these and fall during the day, as long as i dont leave it out to be frosted in fall and bring it in during the night at fall and overwinter it inside, it should live right? Do they NEED a winter experience?
I live close to you in the Charlotte area, so similar weather.
where do you buy your plants from? I want to add some citrus variety that i can grown in ground. please advise.
How far apart did you space your trees on your south wall, and how large can they get while still fitting the plant jacket?
What nursery did you buy the Owari from? I'm in the Winston Salem area but have a greenhouse.
Thanks!
You’re welcome!
Ty so much I'm in Fayetteville NC !
We're practically neighbors! Best of luck!
@@TheMillennialGardener yes I'm glad I found you...I can follow you and have a great garden...I'm a beginner 😒
Great channel and content.
Thank you! I appreciate you watching.
'Trifoliate orange' is also even more cold hardy, than 'Owari 874 Satsuma' is, meaning even if the 'Owari 874 Satsuma' were to die of the cold, the 'Trifoliate orange' might still survive, If the root stock is even less cold hardy than the 'Owari 874 Satsuma', then the death of the root stock could kill the 'Owari 874 Satsuma'. Also brick buildings are the best buildings to plant, plants up against for winter protection. They store so much heat from the sun, way more than a non brick house does.
Do you know which 'Trifoliate orange' root stock McKenzie Farms and Nursery, used for your tree? Flying dragon? Or something less dwarfing? There are some 'Trifoliate orange' root stock that are still dwarfing, just not as dwarfing as Flying dragon.
Here in zone 7b North Carolina we have a lot of pest problems with our in citrus in grow bags. Citrus leaf miners (remove a good portion of the leaves every year), black citrus aphids (one year there was a major infestation of them, luckily I have noticed them only one year), aphids go after the leaves here too. There is also one or two other things attacking the leaves every year, not sure what they are/it is.
Here it can go down to 3 degrees Fahrenheit, every now and then. Here we'd need to have a heater for the colder days of each winter/spring, yet it would not need to be run much, only on the very coldest nights. I have thought about growing Satsuma in the ground here, yet I am not sure that it's worth it, or if I should just keep all of our citrus in grow bags, and bring them in for the winter. It makes way more sense in your climate to put it in to the ground. It is a beautiful sight to see a citrus tree, with delicious fruit on it, in the ground, in such a cold climate as yours.
Speaking of Satsuma, there is another variety of Satsuma, that has almost identical fruit to 'Owari 874 Satsuma', and it's a little bit more cold hardy than 'Owari 874 Satsuma', the reason why I have decided to get 'Owari 874 Satsuma' instead of the more cold hardy variety is because the more cold hardy variety is disease sensitive, and I try to stay away from disease sensitive plants if I can.
Hey MG, Mark from Charlotte. Per one our previous conversations, I visited Stan and bought a owari satsuma, a xieshan satsuma and a variegated pink lemon. All bloomed profusely. Per your previous videos you said many blooms would drop to minimize stress on the plant, which happened. Do they later drop fruit for the same reason? On both satsumas, when many of the fruit reached about 1/2 in, they turned yellow and dropped. Now I have about six 1” fruits on the xieshan (4 ft tall) and a couple on the owari (3ft). Is this normal with the yellowing fruit? On another note, after shortly after bringing them out of the garage for the final time this spring, on both satsumas, I noticed some leaf yellowing with the veins still green, but looking closely I saw tiny tiny brown spots on the leaves, really tiny. Any first I thought disease, but I took a leaf to my microscope and found they were actually brownish red mites. I mean tiny, many times smaller than a fine ground pepper particle, hardly visible with the naked eye. I’ve been treating with an Earthtone insect product, seems kill them but they keep coming back. To me the leaves army healthy looking, not dark shiny green but mottled with yellow. Sitting beside them is a meters lemon with I’ve had for a couple yrs, and it’s leaves are better but not the shiny green it was this spring, but I’ve seen no mites on it. I have used regular miracle grow on all of them twice about a month apart. Any thoughts? Thanks!
I live in Zone 8b, Cave Junction Oregon, I can but the 'Owari Satsuma' in #5 can, #15 can or 24'' box. Think they would grow in my area?
It just started to freeze here. Not every night only when its clear. Can I grow these in a container? Thanks! Not sure about the root stock. I''ll check in the morning.
Hi I live in the New York area is it possible to have a citrus tree, or tend to be moving it through the cold months,
Gorgeous citrus tree!!! Can that be grown in containers?
Thank you. Absolutely, if you purchase a dwarf variety. I recommend getting one grafted on trifoliate rootstock, because it is heavily dwarfing and resists root rot. Citrus trees are highly prone to root rot, and trifoliate rootstock makes things easier.
@@TheMillennialGardener thanks my friend! Any idea where I could order one of these to be shipped?
Great video. I just over to NC and would love to know where to purchase this citrus tree so I can try to grow my own.
Good tips. Thanks.
Thanks for watching!
What part of NC u from I'm from sc
I’m in the Wilmington area. Exact location is in the video description.
Great video - live in Lumberton NC and will be trying to grow some fruit trees soon. Can you plant in late summer and early fall?
When planting citrus, especially in marginal climates like ours, you generally want to plant them as close to last chance of frost as possible, because that gives them more time to establish before the freezes start. I've planted citrus this late, and they did well with significant winter protection using my water barrel method. If you plant citrus, you'll want to plant them ASAP. If you're planting deciduous trees like apples, pears, peaches, etc., it really doesn't matter when you plant them in our region, because our winters won't threaten their survival. Keep in mind if you plant any tree in the summer, you'll need to water it daily for a couple weeks and not let it dry out. Stress is highest due to the heat.
I want to grow then this year
I recommend giving Stan a call. His trees are great.
@@TheMillennialGardener who is Stan lol it’s giving scam
Hi, I have a coconut tree in north Carolina an tips?
You'll have to keep it in a container. There is no way to grow a coconut palm in-ground in North Carolina. You can't even grow one in ground in Orlando! You won't find a single coconut palm even in the warmest, frost-free pockets of California. They can't tolerate any frost at all, and they need 80 degree temps year round with humidity, too. That's why they can't grow coconuts even in places like San Diego and Los Angeles. Even if it doesn't frost or freeze, it's too cold in the winter there. They've tried growing coconuts in California and they always fail. I only know of one currently alive in someone's yard in California, and it's the ugliest thing you've ever seen because it's sick trying to grow there.
@@TheMillennialGardener 80 degree year round...hmmm sounds like Guam!
I am gonna order one.
I strongly recommend it! If you want the same tree I have that's grafted to trifoliate rootstock, get it from McKenzie Farms in Scranton, SC. He'll ship it to your door. A lot of online sites won't disclose rootstocks, or they're out of stock.
@@TheMillennialGardener Thanks!
I am in zone 7B. Do you think I could plant citrus in ground and be successful?
“Everyone knows it’s too cold in North Carolina for citrus.” Me in the PNW thinking North Carolina is way warmer in NC.
Believe it or not, there is a sizeable chunk of the PNW that has warmer annual minimums than I do. I'm only Zone 8a, and a pretty good chunk of Oregon and Washington is 8b-9a. However, my average temps are much warmer. We warm up a lot more during the day here on the coast. Parts of inland NC can get really cold, though, especially out west in the mountains.
Do you think it’s okay to plant a Fuyugaki Persimmon tree now? Or should I wait till after the frost??
It depends on your zone. Most Asian persimmons are only hardy to around Zone 7. If you're in Zone 8 or 9, the answer is probably. A dormant, deciduous tree in most Zones 8 and 9 should be no challenge to transplant, and winter transplanting during dormancy can be a good thing. If you're in a marginal zone, like a 7 or even a 6, that could challenge the tree some, I would wait until it gets warmer and transplant in early spring. You don't have to wait until your last frost date since the tree is easily frost hardy, but you will want to wait until the threat of Arctic outbreaks end.
@@TheMillennialGardener thank you very much for your help I appreciate it. I’m in zone 8B
My Sweet Satsuma Tree just arrived here in Tx zone 9 .. I wonder if this is the same kind as yours. Mine is about 3’years old grated tree. If I put it in the ground would I get fruits next fall? Also would It need another tree to pollinate? Your tree looks amazing. So impressive that you can grow in NC Thanks
There are many different varieties of satsumas, so it is unlikely it is the same. Owari is one of the most popular, so it's not out of the question, but it wouldn't be possible to tell without some type of origin tracing. Planting a satsuma in-ground won't necessarily speed up fruiting. It may actually slow it down, because the roots getting rootbound in a pot usually induces earlier fruiting. Usually, grafted citrus fruit either the very next season or the season after: 1-2 years to fruit. Mine fruited the next full season. It's very unusual that your 3 year old tree hasn't fruited if the scion wood was off a fruiting tree. I would suggest you make absolutely certain it is getting enough sunshine (8 hours or more direct sunlight a day), enough fertilizer (see here: ua-cam.com/video/uhZ6gslBoVw/v-deo.html), and ensure it is getting enough cold exposure in winter. The "spring flush" of flowers is usually a response to chilly winter temps, so it's important that you expose your satsuma to nights in the 30's and 40's. You don't have to let it see hard freezes, but it should be exposed to at the very least 30's, if not a handful of light frosts. It may not fruit if it's always warm and protected.
Guy in zone 8A saying he lives in a cold area, meanwhile I'm here in 2B.
And where can I buy it? Local stores don't have orange trees.
The best person to buy is Stan McKenzie at McKenzie Farms in Scranton, SC. You can either drive over, or if you call him, he will ship. He doesn't have an online store, so you must order over the phone. All my grafted citrus come from Stan.
Hey man, I'm out in WNC(Near Morganton), was curious if you have a source for a grafted tree like you used in the video? I've got the ideal situation and location for a similiar tree and would like to make progress on it this year
What side of the house do I plant the tree? I also live in NC.
For the best warm microclimate, it is always the south side of the house.
When you peel your home grown citrus don't forget to remove the sticker that's on it when you buy at a grocery store. The fruit grows with sticker already attached naturally
I'm not sure what you mean.
@The Millennial Gardener the sticker that comes on a fruit when you buy in a grocery store, it is also on your satsuma when it grows. It was supposed to be a joke but I worded it wrong and ruined it.
Can you grow them in the uk south
As long as you're Zone 8 and warmer, yes, but due to your cool weather, it may take 18-24 months for sweet citrus to ripen. One season may not be enough. plantmaps.com/interactive-united-kingdom-plant-hardiness-zone-map-celsius.php
How do you not have problems with scale?
Every now and again, I use my ULV sprayer to treat with pyrethrin as a just-in-case preventative. I've never had a problem.
How far are you from Fayetteville? I was trying to grow citrus trees here and no luck yet(
I'm in Wilmington, so I'm 90 mins from you.
Where did you buy this plant?
This tree is from Stan McKenzie at McKenzie Farms in Scranton, SC. All my grafted citrus trees are from him. I recommend calling him and ordering if you need a tree. He will ship and often has good stock.
Where did u get the tree from
This tree is from Stan McKenzie at McKenzie Farms in Scranton, SC. I recommend going to his website and giving him a call. His trees are the best, and he has an enormous selection of rare things.
How do you find the zone number from
You can find your hardiness zone here: plantmaps.com/
Where you get fruit trees.
My grafted citrus trees are all from Stan McKenzie from McKenzie Farms in Scranton, SC. He doesn't do online orders, but he takes orders over the phone and will ship nationwide as long as you're not in a citrus quarantine state.
The southern facing side of my house gets alot of shade due to large existing trees. I have a garden in my back yard that gets full sun but there isn't a building to absorb and reflect heat. Would you say planting it on the southern side of a building is absolutely necessary to avoid freezing? I am also in NC
The southern side of your house is generally the warmest micro-climate in a yard, because of both the radiative heat of the house and the house's ability to block the north wind. However, fruit trees like citrus need a minimum 6-8 hours of direct sunshine a day to fruit properly. If the south side of your house is shaded, you'd need to remove the trees. If that isn't an option...
1. You could consider the east side of your house if it gets 6-8 hours of sunlight a day. You may need a windbreak on the north side.
2. You could manufacture your own micro-climate using pickle barrels, plant jackets and a wind break like I am in the rear of my yard: ua-cam.com/video/7iBohqx9ch8/v-deo.html
The pickle barrels will act as a radiative heat source, similar to your home. Then, you can use north-facing trees to block the north wind, and use plant jackets to hold the heat in. It gives me 10 degrees of protection as shown.
@@TheMillennialGardener thanks! I do have a couple of the pickle barrells
Satsuma are normally about half the size of that.
This is a fairly normal size for most satsumas. Maybe slightly above average, but Owari is a later season variety of exceptionally high quality. The satsumas found seasonally at grocery stores this time of year are pretty consistent with this size. You may be thinking of a clementine, which are similar but smaller.
Great info. is there a supplier you recommend for this citrus? I am in 7b and have a little south wall left. thanks.
Yes. I recommend calling Stan McKenzie of McKenzie Farms in Scranton, SC. If you type that into Google Maps, you’ll get his info. ALL my grafted citrus trees are from him.
@@TheMillennialGardener Thank you for the info. I have two trees on the way. I am in 7b but I have a south wall and your method to protect them. Also I liked your vid on pineapple guava so I bought two. At the end of this year I will have about 30 figs. Thanks
how about sumo orange?
That's just a trademarked name for a shiranui mandarin, or a "dekopon." Not all mandarins are equally cold hardy, and this variety is much less cold hardy, so it's not something I'd bother trying.
You think it will work if it gets dappled sun all day in zone 8b?
Citrus trees actually *do* grow well underneath live oak trees in Florida. It's proving to be a great way to minimize the effects of HLB. The bugs stay away from the live oak canopies for whatever reason. However, I still recommend making sure you survey the area and ensure it gets plenty of dappled light.
@@TheMillennialGardener Thanks! I am a millenial gardner from Texas. It gets around 7 hours of filtered sun through oak and cedar trees.
Just planted it. Will see how it goes.