Notes: -For the 2 bolts holding down the axle ends: I suggest using the bolts with heads over using just pins or nails. The snugged down bolts will keep the ends from twisting out of position when heating and cooling. With just straight nails, the ends may shift up/down and end up out of alignment with the link bar. - For the block, use a hard wood wit fine grain if you can. Threaded holes with last longer and the wood will tend to warp less then a soft wood. - You could use a piece of 1/4-3/8" aluminum or steel plate or Lexan or HDPE or G10 for the jig base if you want a 1000 yr jig that's bomb proof. Just need to drill and tap the various bolt holes. (steel is probably one to avoid thought as you'll be snapping taps that small!!!) - For running the bolts into the wood, use an awl or nail to accurately mark the holes. The dimple will keep your standard twist drill bit from wandering. Or get a Brad Point drill bit. Use a much smaller bit then the bolt size or the threads will be weak. - To make the jig multi-functional, you could use one ball end blot hole as the primary and add several second holes for the different length arms. Make additional stop pin holes that are removable (removable so they don't get in the way of other arm bends) Number or color the various holes that go with various link arm lengths for quick reference. Jigs are great when multi purpose. - For pushing in the bend, cut out a small piece of wood, 1/2" thick, that is at the angle you want the inside bend at. Just wide enough to support the length of the shaft. This 'push stick' can slide on the jig surface to keep the pressure level and be held in place for the cooling. You could even make a couple drop in pins to hold it in it's final place. Make it long enough that you can keep a couple fingers on it to keep it steady. If you really want to go nuts, you could add a could guide rails either side on the jig base to guide the push stick the same every time. - You could bring this to your local meets for others to use. Hopes this helps you and others as you've all helped me! :)
@@TheShopMiniRC Thanks! Happy to give back in anyway. "Work smarter, not harder" was a theme my mentors taught me. And I can get really OCD about thinking how to make things as efficient as possible using the things on hand and least expensive. From building small production runs of hundreds or units of a particular product, you have more fun thinking of the best way to skin the proverbial cat to make production easy and efficient. The jig making is the real fun. It's hand bending of 1000's parts and welding of 100's of wine racks, for example, that's the mind numbing! LOL!
Limb Risers: Might look neat to finish the wire wrap ends with heat shrink, if you can find it that small. Or some really tiny modelling tubing to make some scale crimps. :D These free mod's with stuff kicking around the house are good fun!
This is too funny to see. Just a couple weeks ago I wrote out a long comment on building a very similar jig on another fellas channel. Unfortunately it was erased due to a misunderstanding over one of my other comments. (That was thankfully clarified between us and all is good). I build welded sculptures and make all my own jigs for cold bending steel round bar from 1/8" to 3/4". So when I saw him diy bending his links like you're doing, I thought I'd give back by outlining how to build a jig very similar to what you've done based on my 15+ yrs of making jigs, to improve accuracy and repeatability. So glad to see you post this as my long typed out post is gone and I didn't feel like retyping it. If it's OK, with you, I'll make some suggestions as I watch. Like button smashed for sure! :)
New to your knowledge, and the hobby grade RC. I like your injunity, creativeness, and willingness to share. When I was a kid, I used to swop my Toys-R-Us cars motors out with kitchen blinder motors. I kept the setting bars and just tried to keep my contraption together. I stripped a lot of gears out. then recycled the car into the next monstrosity. So thanks for helping me spend my money and be no holds bar again. Never Settle For Common
Re: Stiffening the sidewalls Just throwing this out there without experience of trying it, so take it just as a brain fart. What about cutting out some thin disks of plastic, like from packaging or the really thin stuff from those clear clamshell packs that mixed greens/lettuce come in and inserting on the inside of the tire? Maybe with an OD that just comes to below where the tire sidewall starting to curve over to the tread surface. ID hole to fit over the wheel ring on a 3-piece or a one piece rim. Really thin plastic so it just give a little support sideways and a small enough OD that it doesn't mess with tread surface compression/deformation. Tire foams would keep it in place against the outer wall of the tire. It's something I've had in my head for a couple weeks, watching all these SCX24 videos to learn all I can. And easy and free to experiment with! You just have to eat your greens!! :)
Definitely seems like the new SCX24's with the new ESC's and controllers have better low speed modulation then the previous models. (Or you've got well trained Ninja trigger finger.... XD ) I think I'll still go with a Dead Bolt when I can get one so I can up grade to a brushless and Lizard. I really like the Zen slow crawling.
Hmmmmm probably not. I just like the body too much. Lol. I feel like I have seen a few footless broncos, but I am not sure if they were the axial body or a custom or toy body.
Best upgrade is throw the body in the garbage, and use the Deadbolt body with half the cage cut off. In RC, same as 1/1 top heavy equals no go no mo. The bronco is about the least capable of all the scx24. I own about 200 RC's, about ten 24 scalers. My SCX24 class 2 hasn't lost a comp yet. Just don't add any weight, till you have removed as much as you can. Then put weight where you need it. 60/40 65/35 front to rear, 50/50 side to side. Then just put the tallest tires you can get, taller tire equals smaller rocks. The steering is the week spot. Servo and steering link are the first thing I do before I even put a single battery in it then long wheel base, jeep front, deadbolt rear. I've got 3s in mine, but ill let the masses figure that one out for themselves. All I can say, direct power JR sub micro on 3s will twist the axle. Be ware. Have fun all
You are not the Broncos target audience, and that is totally ok. There are many different types of people who enjoy the hobby and it’s not ideal to poo poo on someone’s preferred method of enjoying the hobby (in this case, people who want a scale hard body). Try to be supportive and positive and grow the hobby, regardless of the type of RCer. Some don’t care about it being able to crawl straight up a wall, some don’t care how it looks…. If you want a pure performer, then yes, the bronco is not the answer, a rig that looks nothing like a real vehicle is…. And if you want something that’s scale and detailed, the Bronco is… hands down…. The best option for the SCX24. ;) Anyway, good info is good info, but bad presentation makes someone not care about the info. Thanks for your viewership and I hope we have some content you enjoy.
Notes:
-For the 2 bolts holding down the axle ends: I suggest using the bolts with heads over using just pins or nails. The snugged down bolts will keep the ends from twisting out of position when heating and cooling. With just straight nails, the ends may shift up/down and end up out of alignment with the link bar.
- For the block, use a hard wood wit fine grain if you can. Threaded holes with last longer and the wood will tend to warp less then a soft wood.
- You could use a piece of 1/4-3/8" aluminum or steel plate or Lexan or HDPE or G10 for the jig base if you want a 1000 yr jig that's bomb proof. Just need to drill and tap the various bolt holes. (steel is probably one to avoid thought as you'll be snapping taps that small!!!)
- For running the bolts into the wood, use an awl or nail to accurately mark the holes. The dimple will keep your standard twist drill bit from wandering. Or get a Brad Point drill bit. Use a much smaller bit then the bolt size or the threads will be weak.
- To make the jig multi-functional, you could use one ball end blot hole as the primary and add several second holes for the different length arms. Make additional stop pin holes that are removable (removable so they don't get in the way of other arm bends) Number or color the various holes that go with various link arm lengths for quick reference. Jigs are great when multi purpose.
- For pushing in the bend, cut out a small piece of wood, 1/2" thick, that is at the angle you want the inside bend at. Just wide enough to support the length of the shaft. This 'push stick' can slide on the jig surface to keep the pressure level and be held in place for the cooling. You could even make a couple drop in pins to hold it in it's final place. Make it long enough that you can keep a couple fingers on it to keep it steady. If you really want to go nuts, you could add a could guide rails either side on the jig base to guide the push stick the same every time.
- You could bring this to your local meets for others to use.
Hopes this helps you and others as you've all helped me! :)
Bro… awesome info here!!! Pinned to the top!
@@TheShopMiniRC Thanks! Happy to give back in anyway. "Work smarter, not harder" was a theme my mentors taught me. And I can get really OCD about thinking how to make things as efficient as possible using the things on hand and least expensive. From building small production runs of hundreds or units of a particular product, you have more fun thinking of the best way to skin the proverbial cat to make production easy and efficient. The jig making is the real fun. It's hand bending of 1000's parts and welding of 100's of wine racks, for example, that's the mind numbing! LOL!
Limb Risers: Might look neat to finish the wire wrap ends with heat shrink, if you can find it that small. Or some really tiny modelling tubing to make some scale crimps. :D
These free mod's with stuff kicking around the house are good fun!
That's a good idea!
This is too funny to see. Just a couple weeks ago I wrote out a long comment on building a very similar jig on another fellas channel. Unfortunately it was erased due to a misunderstanding over one of my other comments. (That was thankfully clarified between us and all is good). I build welded sculptures and make all my own jigs for cold bending steel round bar from 1/8" to 3/4". So when I saw him diy bending his links like you're doing, I thought I'd give back by outlining how to build a jig very similar to what you've done based on my 15+ yrs of making jigs, to improve accuracy and repeatability. So glad to see you post this as my long typed out post is gone and I didn't feel like retyping it. If it's OK, with you, I'll make some suggestions as I watch. Like button smashed for sure! :)
Of course you can make suggestions. I am no jig maker. Lol. Just a dude in his basement trying to make stuff work better. ;)
New to your knowledge, and the hobby grade RC. I like your injunity, creativeness, and willingness to share.
When I was a kid, I used to swop my Toys-R-Us cars motors out with kitchen blinder motors. I kept the setting bars and just tried to keep my contraption together. I stripped a lot of gears out. then recycled the car into the next monstrosity. So thanks for helping me spend my money and be no holds bar again. Never Settle For Common
Hahhaa awesome story! Thanks a ton for watching. I hope i earned your sub!
i feel like getting the roof rack and the spare off is an easier way to lower the centre of gravity then cutting the windows out xD
But we want to keep it scale / stock looking overall.
Nice ride, I've been thinking about doing lim risers on my Gladiator. Didn't think about using wire like that, nice.
Good video.
Thanks a ton! Yeah the wire is just about right for risers. It fits the front mounts without deforming the holes too much.
Excellent work 👍😉
Thanks. Why buy expensive metal links?!? Lol
Re: Stiffening the sidewalls
Just throwing this out there without experience of trying it, so take it just as a brain fart. What about cutting out some thin disks of plastic, like from packaging or the really thin stuff from those clear clamshell packs that mixed greens/lettuce come in and inserting on the inside of the tire? Maybe with an OD that just comes to below where the tire sidewall starting to curve over to the tread surface. ID hole to fit over the wheel ring on a 3-piece or a one piece rim. Really thin plastic so it just give a little support sideways and a small enough OD that it doesn't mess with tread surface compression/deformation. Tire foams would keep it in place against the outer wall of the tire. It's something I've had in my head for a couple weeks, watching all these SCX24 videos to learn all I can. And easy and free to experiment with! You just have to eat your greens!! :)
Definitely seems like the new SCX24's with the new ESC's and controllers have better low speed modulation then the previous models. (Or you've got well trained Ninja trigger finger.... XD ) I think I'll still go with a Dead Bolt when I can get one so I can up grade to a brushless and Lizard. I really like the Zen slow crawling.
The new ESC def has better slow crawl and control. Any of the SCX24 will make you smile!
I have added cotton balls inside the tires to stiffen up the side walls
Not a bad idea!
Are you going to cut the doors next? Has anyone done that yet?
Hmmmmm probably not. I just like the body too much. Lol.
I feel like I have seen a few footless broncos, but I am not sure if they were the axial body or a custom or toy body.
Can you do the angle rollover test on the board with the stock scx24 jeep rubicon? Thanks!
The jeep and Bronco are the same links. The jeep will perform even better because it’s less too heavy.
Most these guys don't have any problem throwing money at their scx money pits js
Well, that’s why we want to show that you can upgrade the performance without spending a ton of money. ;)
I think even more guys like DIY'ing stuff for the fun and challenge, irregardless of spending ability. :)
Best upgrade is throw the body in the garbage, and use the Deadbolt body with half the cage cut off.
In RC, same as 1/1 top heavy equals no go no mo.
The bronco is about the least capable of all the scx24.
I own about 200 RC's, about ten 24 scalers.
My SCX24 class 2 hasn't lost a comp yet.
Just don't add any weight, till you have removed as much as you can. Then put weight where you need it. 60/40 65/35 front to rear, 50/50 side to side. Then just put the tallest tires you can get, taller tire equals smaller rocks.
The steering is the week spot. Servo and steering link are the first thing I do before I even put a single battery in it then long wheel base, jeep front, deadbolt rear.
I've got 3s in mine, but ill let the masses figure that one out for themselves. All I can say, direct power JR sub micro on 3s will twist the axle. Be ware.
Have fun all
You are not the Broncos target audience, and that is totally ok. There are many different types of people who enjoy the hobby and it’s not ideal to poo poo on someone’s preferred method of enjoying the hobby (in this case, people who want a scale hard body). Try to be supportive and positive and grow the hobby, regardless of the type of RCer. Some don’t care about it being able to crawl straight up a wall, some don’t care how it looks…. If you want a pure performer, then yes, the bronco is not the answer, a rig that looks nothing like a real vehicle is…. And if you want something that’s scale and detailed, the Bronco is… hands down…. The best option for the SCX24. ;)
Anyway, good info is good info, but bad presentation makes someone not care about the info.
Thanks for your viewership and I hope we have some content you enjoy.