I got a set of Proline big bore shocks for the first time, and I don't think I'll ever use another shock. I don't have the articulation I had with other shocks, but it doesn't need it at all and I no longer have to worry about using and tuning limiting straps. Awesome paint job Brother, that's top tier stuff right there!
Appreciate the tip, dude! You're talking about the 32mm ones, right? I have a set of HR's big bore shocks with the same specs as the Proline shocks, because I can't get Prolines easily where I am. Definitely gonna try them on this rig.
@@Angerhaus yes the shorter versions. I run my rigs nice and low and tune the springs to hold at mid travel on the shocks. I've heard good things about the HR shocks, just haven't used them yet myself.
If you like them try the 36 Big Bore shocks from hot racing you'll fall in love I found that the pro lines I had trouble with them leaking but if you run a thicker like oil so like a dip fluid mixed with some Shock oil they do pretty good and then also there's a new 40 mm big bore on the market by injora
@@Gibsonlife573 The reason I like the Pro-line shocks so much is because they are so buttery smooth. Use Team Associated Green Slime on the O-rings and you won't have any leak troubles at all. I will at some point I will try the HR oil shocks though, they're in my cart somewhere. 40mm is just too much travel for me (maybe not on the rear of some builds though) we're getting back into limit straps at that point. Cheers!
I'm actually on my third RampCrab LCG chassis now. Be careful with the included screws dude, I snapped a few. The ones securing the bottom links onto the skid plate can get a bit tight. They are different than the others and RampCrab doesn't give you extras. Definitely don't use an electric driver with those.
Love the video, new to your channel and I like the info you provide. I also use the rampcrabs chassie kit and I agree, very good for the price. I liked it so much that I’m on my second build with it and it perform very well. The front links are not treated anymore so you will need a little nut to replace the treaded link. (come with the kit). Good job 👍
@@patrickpiche135 thanks dude. I’m on my third RampCrab chassis now. They are also very versatile in body mounting options, each of my RampCrab LCG build uses a different way to attach the body. Luckily all the upper links have threaded pivot balls so far, although I did use those tiny nuts on some Injora links.
Those double barrels are binding machines i would recommend injora oil filleds any size I personally use fcx on the scx to get bigger bore and longer options
@@caelinator101 They shouldn’t bind if the shock bodies are spaced out with enough room from the chassis rails for side-to-side movements. And a dab of grease inside always helps. All my telescopic shocks work very smoothly. Yeah, other Injora shocks are fine but I am all about HR big bore shocks right now. I got a set on a 2nd comp build and the way they work is sublime. Appreciate the tip on FCX shocks, I do have a few sets of really nice FCX shocks in my FMS fleet. Maybe I will cannibalize a set to try. Thanks!
Great rig! I like the Rampcrab threaded ball joints, but they are only available in packages of 50 standard (style A) with 10 threaded (style B). I've never seen these before, very cool! I've been using nuts along with 1.4mm screws. These threaded ball joints would be so nice! Also a steel option would be nice. Rampcrab doesn't appear to have a website, unfortunately. Just seen on Amazon. As far as your question on other performance options, i would buy a new set of wheels and tires to swap out "depending" on the terrain at different courses. When you get there, take a look at the specific terrain, and mount the ones thatwork best. There are better tires than the ones you have on there for various trains. If you do comps, you might end up with pins most of the time, as that is what I've see increasingly lately.
You're probably correct, the shocks likely need some spacers at the top mounting point. I use injora aluminum spacers, and Mofo black plastic spacers. Thats a great body! 80grams is a bit much, but looks are great, and it seems to perform well. Besides, it can stand on its side, so the weight shouldnt be too much of an issue. Thanks again for the build video. New sub!
Yeah, my second RampCrab chassis came with some tiny nuts. I used them instead of the threaded ball joints on a build that needed other links. The problem is they extend out further so I had to ensure there's no contact with bottom links and driveshafts. I agree with you on these tires. After actually crawling outdoor, I too found these don't grip well. I got some LGRP I wanna try next.
@@MrsRabbit8 I've purchased so many sets of Injora shocks I have a bag of spacers saved up. That solved the problem entirely. Appreciate you for subbing! 🙌
@@Angerhaus Tires! Lol Yeah, i would watch 20 reviews and still not know which ones, guess I'll just have to try out more tires. I'll take a look at the LGRP tires. I like 60mm to 64mm, and am looking for comp pin tires that are NOT 70mm. I want 64mm pins, but i really don't like the looks of pin tires at all, it's just for performance. On links... check out Mazz Designs. He has double bend links that he just released, and they are a good price and quality. They are still in stock, but i don't know how long that will last.
Brilliant build, try running it without the limit straps, then adjust accordingly. It may help with the shock travel to have less restriction in place.
@@radioactivescalerchave fun dude! I’m working on my third build with RampCrab chassis now. They are quite versatile, I especially like their magnet mounts and how easily they can be adapted to attach to different bodies. If I may offer a tip - be cautious with their hardware. The screws included in the kit strip very easily. By my third build, I only keep the four big ones for the skid and throw away the rest.
@@Angerhaus I have 2 chassis kits and going to get to building soon, working on a SR5 Body for them, doing my test resin prints, hoping all linds up with hte mahnet mount slider i am going to use to mount it. I intergrated mounts into the body to line up with the skids. I am going to get the Gladiator length chassis also to another build.
To improve the clearance of the rear link, I’ve removed the rear lower links, removed the end of the link on the side that is not bent, tape the links not to damage them and carefully bent it with 2 set of pliers. The created double bent links help a lot. You will also need to bent the upper links a little bit so the dont block the lower ones. Make sure the lower back links are still lower than the driveshaft, It’s a cheap and effective way to create a sleeper rig. Good luck in class 2 👍
@@patrickpiche135 dude, this is the top tip here. I’m definitely gonna try that. Especially because I am working on a build right now where the rear links are just a tad longer than I’d like. Bending the rear links on that one will not only help with clearance, should also reduce the length a bit. Thanks!
Show latest come out with a big boy shock of their own also injured it I would highly recommend checking into some double bed rear lower link definitely will help I run mainly a 3632 in the front depending on the build I will either go with a 4045 or 50 in the rear and tune that accordingly in all oil shocks
I’m thinking about buying this kit and putting it together. I love the way you painted this shell and I was wondering if you could offer me some pointers on how to achieve that rusty kinda look
@@briannicheporuck2389 first I laid down dark red primer, and then a layer of grey primer, lastly the teal colour paint. Once all the paint has dried, I roughed it up with 280 grit sand paper to achieve this look.
Put another little tip out there if you hear a lot of lug pop like that usually don't represent a good thing you know try 409 Degreaser or simple green and really wipe your tires down I would definitely recommend looking into Jay Concepts Tusk 63 mm the land mines the holes all his tires are amazing
Hey man excellent job on the build! Love how it turned out. I would suggest getting some hot racing shocks. They are my absolute favorite brand of shocks!
Also farts ESC I would highly recommend big kid tiny trucks amazing amazing stuff and check out profit designs if you want to build something with a big kick skid really really high-end carbon forged carbon
Thanks, dude! I watch your videos religiously! In fact when I got done with this build, my wife saw it and said it looks like something that could be on 24Yep. Where I live micro crawlers really isn't a thing so I get a lot of inspiration from your Roasting Rigs series. Oh yeah, I feel less self-conscious about walking around with a shopping basket now. I guess thank you for that too... lol
Yeah man, I got some nuts in the second RampCrab chassis I bought I've begun using different links in the rear now. I'm curious what don't you like about the RampCrab links?
@@Angerhaus i don't like the way they do the plastic ends the full aluminum like on the Rc4wd ones is way better so it won't twist . If you tighten them all the way they get pinched and won't move free .I have a set of the mantis links on a mues mb24 they work well but I have alot of different links i use so i just prefer the other options . Injora brass and mues my normal go to . I just ordered the double bend links and the cheat code V3 chassis though from Mazz designs i have a feeling from others experience those will be my new favorites though .
I do have to say i do love the ramp crab servo it's a little beast but for the money you should try the flash hobby . It is awesome for $30 performs on par with my ogrc servo and ramp crab .
@@Realwademasters I think we ordered from the same batch of Mazz double bends and chassis. I'm still waiting for mine to come in. I also got a set of OGRC mantis links recently. Did you do any modifications to them? I find I might need to trim parts of them because they rub with the shock mounting point on the axles.
@@Angerhaus very nice !!! Its a great chassis, but annoying to work on since nothing is threaded and you have to use little nuts on everything so it takes a little longer, just ,ake sure you have the little nuts for the screws haha
@@scottmichael7178 Appreciate the tip, buddy. Yeah, I just received my Mazz chassis along with some double-bend links. Looks real nice, I'm gonna make an improved comp build off of this kit. To be fair, the RampCrab chassis rails also aren't threaded. Just the holes are small enough to hold the screws. But after a few in-&-out's, you gonna need little nuts too.
@@Danielxperez14 nothing other than installing the skid plate the correct orientation, ditch the rear battery tray, and use electronics that fit on the sliders. easy peasy lemon squeezy.
@@Angerhausyea that’s what I’m trying to do, the link you have is for motor and transmission? So I don’t need a stock transmission to piggyback off of?
@@Danielxperez14 yep I bought the combo with the FURITEK’s Stellar transmission included. I find it less noisy comparing to another FURITEK setup I have running other transmission.
@@Danielxperez14 oh yeah, got an email from LGRP a couple of days ago about that. You know what the actual difference is between regular Furitek and the LGRP collab version?
Love the video, new to your channel and I like the info you provide. I also use the rampcrabs chassie kit and I agree, very good for the price. I liked it so much that I’m on my second build with it and it perform very well. The front links are not treated anymore so you will need a little nut to replace the treaded link. (come with the kit). Good job 👍
I got a set of Proline big bore shocks for the first time, and I don't think I'll ever use another shock. I don't have the articulation I had with other shocks, but it doesn't need it at all and I no longer have to worry about using and tuning limiting straps. Awesome paint job Brother, that's top tier stuff right there!
Appreciate the tip, dude! You're talking about the 32mm ones, right? I have a set of HR's big bore shocks with the same specs as the Proline shocks, because I can't get Prolines easily where I am. Definitely gonna try them on this rig.
@@Angerhaus yes the shorter versions. I run my rigs nice and low and tune the springs to hold at mid travel on the shocks. I've heard good things about the HR shocks, just haven't used them yet myself.
If you like them try the 36 Big Bore shocks from hot racing you'll fall in love I found that the pro lines I had trouble with them leaking but if you run a thicker like oil so like a dip fluid mixed with some Shock oil they do pretty good and then also there's a new 40 mm big bore on the market by injora
@@Gibsonlife573 The reason I like the Pro-line shocks so much is because they are so buttery smooth. Use Team Associated Green Slime on the O-rings and you won't have any leak troubles at all. I will at some point I will try the HR oil shocks though, they're in my cart somewhere. 40mm is just too much travel for me (maybe not on the rear of some builds though) we're getting back into limit straps at that point. Cheers!
Awesome man I’ve been looking into this chassis and there isn’t a lot of videos on it so perfect timing!
I'm actually on my third RampCrab LCG chassis now. Be careful with the included screws dude, I snapped a few. The ones securing the bottom links onto the skid plate can get a bit tight. They are different than the others and RampCrab doesn't give you extras. Definitely don't use an electric driver with those.
Love the video, new to your channel and I like the info you provide. I also use the rampcrabs chassie kit and I agree, very good for the price. I liked it so much that I’m on my second build with it and it perform very well. The front links are not treated anymore so you will need a little nut to replace the treaded link. (come with the kit). Good job 👍
@@patrickpiche135 thanks dude. I’m on my third RampCrab chassis now. They are also very versatile in body mounting options, each of my RampCrab LCG build uses a different way to attach the body. Luckily all the upper links have threaded pivot balls so far, although I did use those tiny nuts on some Injora links.
Those double barrels are binding machines i would recommend injora oil filleds any size I personally use fcx on the scx to get bigger bore and longer options
@@caelinator101 They shouldn’t bind if the shock bodies are spaced out with enough room from the chassis rails for side-to-side movements. And a dab of grease inside always helps. All my telescopic shocks work very smoothly. Yeah, other Injora shocks are fine but I am all about HR big bore shocks right now. I got a set on a 2nd comp build and the way they work is sublime. Appreciate the tip on FCX shocks, I do have a few sets of really nice FCX shocks in my FMS fleet. Maybe I will cannibalize a set to try. Thanks!
Great rig!
I like the Rampcrab threaded ball joints, but they are only available in packages of 50 standard (style A) with 10 threaded (style B).
I've never seen these before, very cool!
I've been using nuts along with 1.4mm screws.
These threaded ball joints would be so nice!
Also a steel option would be nice.
Rampcrab doesn't appear to have a website, unfortunately. Just seen on Amazon.
As far as your question on other performance options, i would buy a new set of wheels and tires to swap out "depending" on the terrain at different courses.
When you get there, take a look at the specific terrain, and mount the ones thatwork best.
There are better tires than the ones you have on there for various trains.
If you do comps, you might end up with pins most of the time, as that is what I've see increasingly lately.
You're probably correct, the shocks likely need some spacers at the top mounting point.
I use injora aluminum spacers, and Mofo black plastic spacers.
Thats a great body! 80grams is a bit much, but looks are great, and it seems to perform well.
Besides, it can stand on its side, so the weight shouldnt be too much of an issue.
Thanks again for the build video.
New sub!
Yeah, my second RampCrab chassis came with some tiny nuts. I used them instead of the threaded ball joints on a build that needed other links. The problem is they extend out further so I had to ensure there's no contact with bottom links and driveshafts. I agree with you on these tires. After actually crawling outdoor, I too found these don't grip well. I got some LGRP I wanna try next.
@@MrsRabbit8 I've purchased so many sets of Injora shocks I have a bag of spacers saved up. That solved the problem entirely. Appreciate you for subbing! 🙌
@@Angerhaus Tires! Lol
Yeah, i would watch 20 reviews and still not know which ones, guess I'll just have to try out more tires. I'll take a look at the LGRP tires.
I like 60mm to 64mm, and am looking for comp pin tires that are NOT 70mm.
I want 64mm pins, but i really don't like the looks of pin tires at all, it's just for performance.
On links... check out Mazz Designs. He has double bend links that he just released, and they are a good price and quality. They are still in stock, but i don't know how long that will last.
@@MrsRabbit8 thanks for pointing me to Mazz Designs, I’m gonna buy a set of those double bends.
Love this truck build. You did a great job.
thanks dude!
Brilliant build, try running it without the limit straps, then adjust accordingly. It may help with the shock travel to have less restriction in place.
Solid tip! 👍
Awesome, great build, aussie made body from YurichMicroRc just about to start building mine good to get some inspiration.
Yeah man, it looks sick. Mine came a bit warped at a couple of places, but was easily fixed with a heat gun.
Sweet Build I have the Rampcrab JLU Rampcrab chassis for my next builds, Subbed Ya!! Cheers!!
@@radioactivescalerchave fun dude! I’m working on my third build with RampCrab chassis now. They are quite versatile, I especially like their magnet mounts and how easily they can be adapted to attach to different bodies. If I may offer a tip - be cautious with their hardware. The screws included in the kit strip very easily. By my third build, I only keep the four big ones for the skid and throw away the rest.
@@Angerhaus I have 2 chassis kits and going to get to building soon, working on a SR5 Body for them, doing my test resin prints, hoping all linds up with hte mahnet mount slider i am going to use to mount it. I intergrated mounts into the body to line up with the skids. I am going to get the Gladiator length chassis also to another build.
Nice build! I’m looking to build something similar.
Thanks for watching dude!
wow nice build bro. Fans from Malaysia Rc Rock Crawler
@@GiftedFingersSVS thanks so much dude! 🙏🏼
Great looking build dude 🤘
To improve the clearance of the rear link, I’ve removed the rear lower links, removed the end of the link on the side that is not bent, tape the links not to damage them and carefully bent it with 2 set of pliers. The created double bent links help a lot. You will also need to bent the upper links a little bit so the dont block the lower ones. Make sure the lower back links are still lower than the driveshaft, It’s a cheap and effective way to create a sleeper rig. Good luck in class 2 👍
@@patrickpiche135 dude, this is the top tip here. I’m definitely gonna try that. Especially because I am working on a build right now where the rear links are just a tad longer than I’d like. Bending the rear links on that one will not only help with clearance, should also reduce the length a bit. Thanks!
Show latest come out with a big boy shock of their own also injured it I would highly recommend checking into some double bed rear lower link definitely will help I run mainly a 3632 in the front depending on the build I will either go with a 4045 or 50 in the rear and tune that accordingly in all oil shocks
I’m thinking about buying this kit and putting it together. I love the way you painted this shell and I was wondering if you could offer me some pointers on how to achieve that rusty kinda look
@@briannicheporuck2389 first I laid down dark red primer, and then a layer of grey primer, lastly the teal colour paint. Once all the paint has dried, I roughed it up with 280 grit sand paper to achieve this look.
Put another little tip out there if you hear a lot of lug pop like that usually don't represent a good thing you know try 409 Degreaser or simple green and really wipe your tires down I would definitely recommend looking into Jay Concepts Tusk 63 mm the land mines the holes all his tires are amazing
Hey man excellent job on the build! Love how it turned out. I would suggest getting some hot racing shocks. They are my absolute favorite brand of shocks!
Thanks dude, I just received a set of 32mm HR big bore shocks in the mail ;)
Also farts ESC I would highly recommend big kid tiny trucks amazing amazing stuff and check out profit designs if you want to build something with a big kick skid really really high-end carbon forged carbon
hey dude, thanks for cluing me in on some sick parts!
Sub'd
Thanks, dude! I watch your videos religiously! In fact when I got done with this build, my wife saw it and said it looks like something that could be on 24Yep. Where I live micro crawlers really isn't a thing so I get a lot of inspiration from your Roasting Rigs series. Oh yeah, I feel less self-conscious about walking around with a shopping basket now. I guess thank you for that too... lol
@@Angerhaus Hahahah, thanks man
Smashed the like and sub'd
Smash that to pieces! Thanks dude! 🤘
Your rear limit straps are too limited and not letting the rear wheels droop. Causing too much belly drag. 👍
@@handymanhaynesI see! I’ll try out different lengths. Thanks for the tip!
Do you have a video on how to build the ramp crab chassis properly I'm almost ready to throw mine away
@@SpiritCrawler675 uh… what’s wrong with yours? I thought it’s a fairly straightforward kit. I’m on my third one already.
@@Angerhaus I'm still pretty new to this hobby still learning this is my first chassis upgrade
@@SpiritCrawler675 no worries dude, tell me what’s wrong. I’ll try to help you out.
I am building a ramp crab chassis right now i used rc4wd links and my uppers i just used a nut works perfect . I am not a fan of the ramp crab links .
Yeah man, I got some nuts in the second RampCrab chassis I bought I've begun using different links in the rear now. I'm curious what don't you like about the RampCrab links?
@@Angerhaus i don't like the way they do the plastic ends the full aluminum like on the Rc4wd ones is way better so it won't twist . If you tighten them all the way they get pinched and won't move free .I have a set of the mantis links on a mues mb24 they work well but I have alot of different links i use so i just prefer the other options . Injora brass and mues my normal go to . I just ordered the double bend links and the cheat code V3 chassis though from Mazz designs i have a feeling from others experience those will be my new favorites though .
I do have to say i do love the ramp crab servo it's a little beast but for the money you should try the flash hobby . It is awesome for $30 performs on par with my ogrc servo and ramp crab .
@@Realwademasters Appreciate the tip, they look just like the Injora 11kg servos but priced lower.
@@Realwademasters I think we ordered from the same batch of Mazz double bends and chassis. I'm still waiting for mine to come in. I also got a set of OGRC mantis links recently. Did you do any modifications to them? I find I might need to trim parts of them because they rub with the shock mounting point on the axles.
wow...i have a mazz chasis and this looks similar to it without the price and comes with waaay more stuff in the kit. Might have to pick one up
haha my mazz chassis will be delivered tomorrow!
@@Angerhaus very nice !!! Its a great chassis, but annoying to work on since nothing is threaded and you have to use little nuts on everything so it takes a little longer, just ,ake sure you have the little nuts for the screws haha
@@scottmichael7178 Appreciate the tip, buddy. Yeah, I just received my Mazz chassis along with some double-bend links. Looks real nice, I'm gonna make an improved comp build off of this kit. To be fair, the RampCrab chassis rails also aren't threaded. Just the holes are small enough to hold the screws. But after a few in-&-out's, you gonna need little nuts too.
How did you buy the body? Both tray cage and body or body alone? The etsy shop isnt very helpful
@@bragilbe12 both tray cage & body
I got this chassis kit and been wanting to run brushless rear facing so I can have battery up front, what did you have to do to do that?
@@Danielxperez14 nothing other than installing the skid plate the correct orientation, ditch the rear battery tray, and use electronics that fit on the sliders. easy peasy lemon squeezy.
@@Angerhausyea that’s what I’m trying to do, the link you have is for motor and transmission? So I don’t need a stock transmission to piggyback off of?
@@Danielxperez14 yep I bought the combo with the FURITEK’s Stellar transmission included. I find it less noisy comparing to another FURITEK setup I have running other transmission.
@@Angerhausyea I was honestly looking at the lgrp collab for furitek since I’ll be able to get support from both companies
@@Danielxperez14 oh yeah, got an email from LGRP a couple of days ago about that. You know what the actual difference is between regular Furitek and the LGRP collab version?
Love the video, new to your channel and I like the info you provide. I also use the rampcrabs chassie kit and I agree, very good for the price. I liked it so much that I’m on my second build with it and it perform very well. The front links are not treated anymore so you will need a little nut to replace the treaded link. (come with the kit). Good job 👍