I believe that the install tool that comes with the seal, that washer looking piece that sets the depth, is also used during final assembly to center the seal on the crank when putting the gear cover back on. It solves the misalignment issue that you experienced . You put all the cover bolts in loose. Then temporarily place the installation tool in the recess of the gear cover that holds the seal which forces the cover into alignment. Then you gently snug up the bolts, then torque them. Lastly you remove the seal installer.
I zoomed in on the video, looked like the kdp wasn’t covered but the hole looked “peened” so it wouldn’t back out. Thanks for the video! About to tackle this myself!
Fans are always driven the same direction of “suck” spin direction…so they always tighten. So clockwise rotation from the pulley tightens your fan while sucking air through, therefore clockwise rotation on the clutch fan removes it. Basically rotate it with an impact hammer same direction it spins while running.
Great video, definitely something that all 6bt or 4bt Cummins owners should check for piece of mind! Did the new crank seal shrink and seal up properly?
When the engine is off the oil drains into the oil pan. There should only be a residue on the gears when you open it up. Especially if it hasn’t been started in awhile. This engine hadn’t been run in months
Question, could you use a small inspection camera put down the oil filler port to check and see if the dowel pin has been fixed so you don't have to tear it all apart? Thanks
Probably. If you could angle it the right way you should be able to see the pin. The problem with that is that most of the tiny timing cover bolts are loose and require tightening while you’re in there. And you won’t be able to check that with a camera. But if you’re only worried about the kdp then o would say yes it’s likely you could see it with a bore scope.
Good idea and yes, this worked for me. I had to remove the oil filler tube to gain better access - it threads off easily in two pieces. Borescope was 5mm in diameter. Tricky to snake it past the gear and into position but I was able to. Glad I checked, as the KDP on my truck had not been fixed and was starting to work its way out.
hey ya Bud, Good videos- Love it- How did you notch for the AC compressor work out ? Looks tight with engine movement ? no scraping ? keep the rad vidoes up :)
Thanks. Yeah I just “eased” the frame a little where the compressor is. I haven’t had any issues with rubbing. Even after trimming it a little there’s still more material than the dodge frame ever had 😆 I’ve been working the truck for 3 years and it’s still working great!
thanks heaps buddy- that’s great to hear- appreciate the quick reply, love your videos - I’m in Australia and about to attempt the same basic build- we Hardly got any of these types of trucks Oz delivered all single cab and next to know 4x4 - thanks again 🤙🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻
@@redeyecafegarage7484 interested to know- now you have been living with the truck for a while- would you have done anything different in Hindsight ? Thanks Jess
Were you working on road trucks or fleet trucks? How many years? How often does this happen? I am about to fly out of state and drive a 100K truck about 1000 miles home. I’m actually wondering if I should make this repair out of state before I make the drive. What do you think??
Thank you for your reply regarding NOT putting gasket maker on the front main seal The reason I asked was that many mechanics on You Tube routinely do use gasket maker for the seal. If your seal does not leak after two years, I would agree that the gasket maker is not required. Thanks again for your rapid reply. I have subscribed to your site.
@@redeyecafegarage7484 I guess it follows the old adage that if it isn’t broken or needs to be touched, then don’t?🤷♂️However glad that you knew about it before and corrected it before you completed the install. Did the seal compress and hold? Or did you have to replace it as well? Or will you make me wait until you post the next video to find out. 😂😂
EASY fan removal technique. just use a hammer and long punch. put the punch on the corner of the fan nut and smack it a few times. or use an air hammer. easy peezy... just remember it has reverse threads!
I believe that the install tool that comes with the seal, that washer looking piece that sets the depth, is also used during final assembly to center the seal on the crank when putting the gear cover back on. It solves the misalignment issue that you experienced .
You put all the cover bolts in loose. Then temporarily place the installation tool in the recess of the gear cover that holds the seal which forces the cover into alignment. Then you gently snug up the bolts, then torque them. Lastly you remove the seal installer.
It all worked out. It’s been almost 3 years and hasn’t leaked a drop
I zoomed in on the video, looked like the kdp wasn’t covered but the hole looked “peened” so it wouldn’t back out. Thanks for the video! About to tackle this myself!
This kdp was untouched when I opened it up. Not plate no peening. Thankfully it was still in place. Thanks for watching!
Nice to see you back, Seth! Hope things are fine with you and your fam!
Thanks Harsh!
Man You are a genious.....how do You understand all that things?...... congratulations
Haha I’m learning as I go! 😆
Fans are always driven the same direction of “suck” spin direction…so they always tighten. So clockwise rotation from the pulley tightens your fan while sucking air through, therefore clockwise rotation on the clutch fan removes it. Basically rotate it with an impact hammer same direction it spins while running.
Great video, definitely something that all 6bt or 4bt Cummins owners should check for piece of mind! Did the new crank seal shrink and seal up properly?
Yes I agree! Did you see donscotts IG post from yesterday? Stay tuned for the oil seal update in the next video!
Great video. Thanks.
You are welcome!
What about JB welding in the KDP and then the tab as well ?
That is unnecessary
It didn't seem to have too much oil in the timing gear compartment. How is the timing gears lubricated?
Many thanks!
RSA.
When the engine is off the oil drains into the oil pan. There should only be a residue on the gears when you open it up. Especially if it hasn’t been started in awhile. This engine hadn’t been run in months
Got it. Assumed so. Great tuition.
Many thanks. RSA.@@redeyecafegarage7484
Makes you wonder how many other bolts are loose. I'd be OCD and start checking as many as I could find.
Haha yeah I went over everything I could... these bolts are known for being loose.
Question, could you use a small inspection camera put down the oil filler port to check and see if the dowel pin has been fixed so you don't have to tear it all apart? Thanks
Probably. If you could angle it the right way you should be able to see the pin. The problem with that is that most of the tiny timing cover bolts are loose and require tightening while you’re in there. And you won’t be able to check that with a camera. But if you’re only worried about the kdp then o would say yes it’s likely you could see it with a bore scope.
@@redeyecafegarage7484 thanks for your response!
That’s a great question. I’m glad i saw this comment. I was about to order the kit and do it. I’ll check with a borescope first
Good idea and yes, this worked for me. I had to remove the oil filler tube to gain better access - it threads off easily in two pieces. Borescope was 5mm in diameter. Tricky to snake it past the gear and into position but I was able to. Glad I checked, as the KDP on my truck had not been fixed and was starting to work its way out.
@richardw6082 Great. Thanks for your response. I will use the same method and inspect mine!
hey ya Bud, Good videos- Love it- How did you notch for the AC compressor work out ? Looks tight with engine movement ? no scraping ? keep the rad vidoes up :)
Thanks. Yeah I just “eased” the frame a little where the compressor is. I haven’t had any issues with rubbing. Even after trimming it a little there’s still more material than the dodge frame ever had 😆 I’ve been working the truck for 3 years and it’s still working great!
thanks heaps buddy- that’s great to hear- appreciate the quick reply, love your videos - I’m in Australia and about to attempt the same basic build- we Hardly got any of these types of trucks Oz delivered all single cab and next to know 4x4 - thanks again 🤙🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻
Absolutely! I’m glad you enjoy it. She’s sitting in the driveway right now. Trailer loaded up ready for another adventure this weekend! 🤘
@@redeyecafegarage7484 interested to know- now you have been living with the truck for a while- would you have done anything different in Hindsight ?
Thanks Jess
Good video brother
Thanks man! 👍 🙏
What rig is this in? Did you finish it? That clean painted 12 valve is making me jealous… need to pull mine
Yup this is still in the truck and running great. There’s a bunch of videos on my channel from start to finish.
American engines turn clockwise. That’s how it gets up there
I use to work for cummins and am probably one of the few people that have actually seen this failure
Were you working on road trucks or fleet trucks? How many years? How often does this happen? I am about to fly out of state and drive a 100K truck about 1000 miles home. I’m actually wondering if I should make this repair out of state before I make the drive. What do you think??
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Why do you not put gasket maker on the back of the front main seal ?
It’s not necessary. This was over 2 years ago it has yet to leak a drop. That’s how it was designed to be installed. 👍
Thank you for your reply regarding NOT putting gasket maker on the front main seal The reason I asked was that many mechanics on You Tube routinely do use gasket maker for the seal. If your seal does not leak after two years, I would agree that the gasket maker is not required. Thanks again for your rapid reply. I have subscribed to your site.
soooooooo......... did it leak?? update?
Many thousands of miles later and not a single drop has leaked. It’s all good! 👍
@@redeyecafegarage7484 Awesome news!!
Was the dowel pin working its' way out?
Thankfully no… it was still in place 👍 a few of the timing cover bolts were less than tight. But other than that it was good.
Hey dad cool video momma needs a sraced lol love you all and kids
yes
Yes, been fixed.
I wanna say yes it was genesis it was rebuilt
I thought it would have been done to but it wasn’t.
@@redeyecafegarage7484 I guess it follows the old adage that if it isn’t broken or needs to be touched, then don’t?🤷♂️However glad that you knew about it before and corrected it before you completed the install. Did the seal compress and hold? Or did you have to replace it as well? Or will you make me wait until you post the next video to find out. 😂😂
EASY fan removal technique. just use a hammer and long punch. put the punch on the corner of the fan nut and smack it a few times. or use an air hammer. easy peezy... just remember it has reverse threads!
With that punch you'e hitting right corner of the nut (opposite of righty tighty) which is closer to the block or radiator side?
i think it was fixed
id been more worried about the cam gear falling off their know for that more than that pin all had to do is put a spot weld on it with your tig
You’re welcome to worry about anything you like. 😆
Not fixed I'm gonna say