Great video! I know I’m late to the party, but I’ve been seriously woodworking for about two years now (out of a spare bedroom in my apartment), and I’m at the point where I need to start building more specific jigs to accomplish the tasks I want. I’ve been looking for a simple and effective jointer jig demonstration/build plan all day and I finally came across your video. This is EXACTLY what I’m looking for! Thank you so much for the efficient explanation too! I avoid watching woodworking videos because most creators seem to think they’re filming an episode of This Old House, and have to over simplify and over-explain everything they’re GOING to show us before finally getting around to actually showing us. It drives me crazy. You’re one of the good ones, and I subscribed immediately. I hope you’re still making videos, because I’ll be checking out your catalogue. Thanks again, and happy woodworking!
William...I am betting I watched over 2 dozen videos on how to make a jointer jig for a table saw...some I just shook my head..some made it WAY MORE complicated then it needed to be.!! I am EXTREMELY glad I found your video..!! What a gem.!! Ordered what I needed today and can't WAIT.!!! Starting doing live edge projects and I was seriously struggled with my cuts..You video solved my problems... I forwarded your video to several woodworking groups I am in...again,Thank you sir.!!
I appreciate the positive feedback 👍 best of luck with your future projects! I’ll be here if you have any questions about this build or any another that’s on my channel page.
Hi William, Thank you for sharing. As a newbie woodworker really like the simplicity of this jig. It's the first one that I've seen that shows using T-Track without having to route out a dado groove for it. I'd like using T-Track hold downs vs stationary hold downs. But I think I'll use a flat piece of 3/4" Baltic Birch plywood instead of MDF. For me, MDF is heavy, creates a lot more dust, and is fragile. Please keep those videos coming 🙏.
You are very welcome! T-track allows you to put boards of various lengths onto the jig! You can certainly use a different material for the jig just make sure the piece you work with is very flat. Best of luck to you on your future woodworking projects.
If your cut isn't perfectly straight, and you know the edge of the mdf is, couldn't you spin it around backwards and cut a thin strip off of the t-track side? I would think that would make sure that both sides of your jig has straight edges. I'm still new to this, so I'm not sure if it would work like that
Nice jig, I'm a newbie just two questions; can you just screw the T track to the bottom board why do you need the small board and aren't you limited by the reach of the clamps if you want to straighten a narrow piece the clamps won't reach. or I'm I wrong?
The smaller width board provides a greater surface area to rest against the fence along with providing a better clamping angle for the hold down clamps. You are correct, you are limited by the reach of the clamps in what boards you are ripping. If you want to rip very thing stock you can make the base board of the jig smaller in width. If you want to rip very large width boards on the jig you can make the base board of the jig wider. If you feel like you will be ripping really wide boards and really thing boards you might want to look at a jig that you can move the clamps left and right not just up and down! Hope that helps!
Hi: Im having problems with not straight pieces of wood, to be specific with pallets. I need that wood to be straight to joint them. This is an excellent and easy way, definitely I will make this project to ensure the correct cuts. Now I have 2 questions for you, first all this materials can be found on Home Depot? I'm from Puerto Rico and here may there is the best store to buy all the materials. Number 2: I guess you use the same table saw as me a Dewalt. This furniture or table you make for the table saw is amazing. Do you have the plans to construct one? Or at least the measures? I use mine in 2 shoehorses and definitely isn't the best way.. I will be waiting for you answer, thanks Victor
Ideally yes that’s the right thinking, however, in practice it’s probably better to clamp the board where you want it and then move the fence until you are cutting your board at close to the right width. You don’t have to get exact because you can flip it over and rip it normally without the jig to the final width.
I purposely did not put a rail to slide in the miter slot of the table saw so I can adjust the position of the cut left and right to customize the cut easier. So, no, I would not add rails it would make the jig much less versatile.
How do you make sure the cut is square on both ends (perpendicular to the ends)? I.e. so as not to get a piece that has a straight cut but is angled. Did you just eyeball it?
Ideally you would use a jointer jig prior to cross-cutting because it’s hard to get the board ends exactly perpendicular on the jig. If you needed to however you would need to match the crosscut ends of the board to the crosscut end of the jig to align the cut perpendicular.
Yes, you would. I'm not sure if he mentioned it but I think from the video, you can tell that the board has already been flattened. You never want to run a wobbly piece of wood through a table saw. Not only will it not be square like you said, but it is also dangerous as the board can bind against the blade causing a kickback.
Yes, I flattened the wood prior, however since the board is clamped to the jig you could rip a board that’s not perfectly flat and it should be perfectly fine. However if you have a very warped board or one that has obvious wobble and cutting wood off would cause the board to move while cutting that’s when you want to make sure to flatten the workpiece beforehand.
POWERTEC 71168 T-Track Hold Down Clamps, 5-1/2” L x 1-1/8” Width - 2 Pack www.amazon.com/dp/B07FMX7GXN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_G3JJPEFGZJZMQRJT7VXC
@Jay Mark Marcos You can't make angled cuts on a jointer. A jointer will only flatten the edge. He is cutting off the live edge which does not run parallel to the other side of the board. He rips it at an angle to cut along the live edge line and then suggests if it is not completely flat, you can run it through a jointer to take off an extra 1/32 or 1/16 to make it ultra flat. Next, all you need to do is rip the other side of the board up against the fence to have a perfectly square board... or you can run it through the jointer 20 times until you see no live edge while taking off more wood than necessary.
Great video! I know I’m late to the party, but I’ve been seriously woodworking for about two years now (out of a spare bedroom in my apartment), and I’m at the point where I need to start building more specific jigs to accomplish the tasks I want. I’ve been looking for a simple and effective jointer jig demonstration/build plan all day and I finally came across your video. This is EXACTLY what I’m looking for! Thank you so much for the efficient explanation too! I avoid watching woodworking videos because most creators seem to think they’re filming an episode of This Old House, and have to over simplify and over-explain everything they’re GOING to show us before finally getting around to actually showing us. It drives me crazy. You’re one of the good ones, and I subscribed immediately. I hope you’re still making videos, because I’ll be checking out your catalogue. Thanks again, and happy woodworking!
Aside from the jig, I am especially impressed by how clearly and concisely you described everything.
Hey, thanks so much!
William...I am betting I watched over 2 dozen videos on how to make a jointer jig for a table saw...some I just shook my head..some made it WAY MORE complicated then it needed to be.!! I am EXTREMELY glad I found your video..!! What a gem.!! Ordered what I needed today and can't WAIT.!!! Starting doing live edge projects and I was seriously struggled with my cuts..You video solved my problems... I forwarded your video to several woodworking groups I am in...again,Thank you sir.!!
Oh that’s awesome! Glad it wasn’t over complicated for you! Thank you for your support, I appreciate it!
"send that edge through a jointer"... if i had a jointer i wouldn't need this jig to begin with 😆
Applying wax under the jig makes the process much more smooth.
Great tip! Thanks for adding that.
Thanks. Great looking jig. Simple, and to the point.
You're welcome, glad it was helpful!
Great video; clear, concise & easy to follow.
I appreciate the positive feedback 👍 best of luck with your future projects! I’ll be here if you have any questions about this build or any another that’s on my channel page.
Wow. Thanks. Great explanation and easy to follow.
Glad it was helpful!
Hi William, Thank you for sharing. As a newbie woodworker really like the simplicity of this jig. It's the first one that I've seen that shows using T-Track without having to route out a dado groove for it. I'd like using T-Track hold downs vs stationary hold downs. But I think I'll use a flat piece of 3/4" Baltic Birch plywood instead of MDF. For me, MDF is heavy, creates a lot more dust, and is fragile. Please keep those videos coming 🙏.
You are very welcome! T-track allows you to put boards of various lengths onto the jig! You can certainly use a different material for the jig just make sure the piece you work with is very flat. Best of luck to you on your future woodworking projects.
Such a perfect voice.
Thank you for the positive feedback!
Great job.....
Thank you so much for the positive feedback! I wish you the best of luck with your future projects, take care.
If your cut isn't perfectly straight, and you know the edge of the mdf is, couldn't you spin it around backwards and cut a thin strip off of the t-track side? I would think that would make sure that both sides of your jig has straight edges. I'm still new to this, so I'm not sure if it would work like that
Correct, you can certainly do that to correct it.
Nice jig, I'm a newbie just two questions; can you just screw the T track to the bottom board why do you need the small board and aren't you limited by the reach of the clamps if you want to straighten a narrow piece the clamps won't reach. or I'm I wrong?
The smaller width board provides a greater surface area to rest against the fence along with providing a better clamping angle for the hold down clamps. You are correct, you are limited by the reach of the clamps in what boards you are ripping. If you want to rip very thing stock you can make the base board of the jig smaller in width. If you want to rip very large width boards on the jig you can make the base board of the jig wider. If you feel like you will be ripping really wide boards and really thing boards you might want to look at a jig that you can move the clamps left and right not just up and down! Hope that helps!
Hi:
Im having problems with not straight pieces of wood, to be specific with pallets. I need that wood to be straight to joint them. This is an excellent and easy way, definitely I will make this project to ensure the correct cuts. Now I have 2 questions for you, first all this materials can be found on Home Depot? I'm from Puerto Rico and here may there is the best store to buy all the materials.
Number 2: I guess you use the same table saw as me a Dewalt. This furniture or table you make for the table saw is amazing. Do you have the plans to construct one? Or at least the measures? I use mine in 2 shoehorses and definitely isn't the best way..
I will be waiting for you answer, thanks
Victor
How to Build a Table Saw Stand Pt.2 - Free Downloadable Plans Included!
ua-cam.com/video/be_UaAbHNOg/v-deo.html
To make a board cut at 10" wide, would you set the table saw at 10 + width of the jig?
Ideally yes that’s the right thinking, however, in practice it’s probably better to clamp the board where you want it and then move the fence until you are cutting your board at close to the right width. You don’t have to get exact because you can flip it over and rip it normally without the jig to the final width.
Would you put a guide rail underneath to slide right on your table saw?
I purposely did not put a rail to slide in the miter slot of the table saw so I can adjust the position of the cut left and right to customize the cut easier. So, no, I would not add rails it would make the jig much less versatile.
How do you make sure the cut is square on both ends (perpendicular to the ends)? I.e. so as not to get a piece that has a straight cut but is angled. Did you just eyeball it?
After you make one cut using the jig you take the cut board and use the table saw for the other side along the fence.
Ideally you would use a jointer jig prior to cross-cutting because it’s hard to get the board ends exactly perpendicular on the jig. If you needed to however you would need to match the crosscut ends of the board to the crosscut end of the jig to align the cut perpendicular.
2:28 build jointer jig using jointer?
What saw blade do you have in your miter dewalt saw looks like a good one?
menards masterforce fine tooth blade
Wouldn’t you have to flatten the face of the wood first, otherwise your edge maybe straight, but not square, yes/no
Yes, you would. I'm not sure if he mentioned it but I think from the video, you can tell that the board has already been flattened. You never want to run a wobbly piece of wood through a table saw. Not only will it not be square like you said, but it is also dangerous as the board can bind against the blade causing a kickback.
Yes, I flattened the wood prior, however since the board is clamped to the jig you could rip a board that’s not perfectly flat and it should be perfectly fine. However if you have a very warped board or one that has obvious wobble and cutting wood off would cause the board to move while cutting that’s when you want to make sure to flatten the workpiece beforehand.
😁👍👏👏👏
Thanks for the thumbs up!
do you have a link for those clamps please
Search Powertec clamps on Amazon. I just ordered them, $25 or so and delivered in two days.
POWERTEC 71168 T-Track Hold Down Clamps, 5-1/2” L x 1-1/8” Width - 2 Pack www.amazon.com/dp/B07FMX7GXN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_G3JJPEFGZJZMQRJT7VXC
i’m confused. why make a jointer jig if you’re going to use a jointer to make sure the board you’re cutting with the jig will be straight?
It's especially useful if you're processing wood that's too large for your jointer, or if you're milling a board with two live edges.
Pretty sure he meant use a jointer to make sure the mdf on the jig is straight. But maybe I misunderstood..
@@billyrichardson3963 I think he's asking why make a jointer jig if you have a jointer. The jig is useful though if you have 2 live edges.
@@Wyatt_M140 This jointer jig is quicker and easier I think as well.
@Jay Mark Marcos You can't make angled cuts on a jointer. A jointer will only flatten the edge. He is cutting off the live edge which does not run parallel to the other side of the board. He rips it at an angle to cut along the live edge line and then suggests if it is not completely flat, you can run it through a jointer to take off an extra 1/32 or 1/16 to make it ultra flat. Next, all you need to do is rip the other side of the board up against the fence to have a perfectly square board... or you can run it through the jointer 20 times until you see no live edge while taking off more wood than necessary.