No Jointer? No problem - Easy Jointer Jig/Straight Cut jig for your Table Saw
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- Опубліковано 24 сер 2024
- Thanks for watching the video, let me know what you think in the comments below! And I would love if you could hit the like and subscribe button!
I cut my jig base width to be 7” wide, and the jig fence to be 2.5”. These are both variable measurements, so you can make these whatever size works for your purposes. Just make sure you account for the clamps!
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Grizzly GO814 jointer: www.grizzly.co...
Toggle clamps: www.amazon.com...
Shot on a Canon M50 mirror less camera: www.amazon.com...
I’ve seen a few videos about this solution for straightening boards. This is my favourite because of the coverage done within the time of the video. Well done!
hey thanks man! glad you enjoyed the vid
I can attest, works 100%. I used a piece of melamine that was $11.99 that already had a factory straight edge. Toggle clamps are $15.99 for a four pack on Amazon. Took about 30 minutes to build. The only thing I added was a couple of pull/push blocks out of scrap to keep the jig square to the fence and my fingers well away.
This is pretty handy tip. Likes and subscribed. On tip/request turn the music down in the mix it was hard to hear you over it. Cheers!
I made one of these...works beautifully after 2 attempts, lol.
I made the mistake of first making this from shelf material...MDF with plastic laminate on it. The first time I clamped my work down, the screws holding down the clamps popped out of the MDF, making this a failure. I remade it with solid board and titebond glue and all is well. I’ll probably make another one to be able to joint taller work (4x4 beams) for a bench project I have coming up.
You really do not need a jointer for most DIY projects of a reasonable board length.
love to hear it! I will need to remake mine as well. My little mistake with the clamps hitting the rail has made my clamps a bit wobbly. Still 100% functional, but I know I can do better. Sometime I'll get around to it!
just ordered a SUPER cheapo jointer and was afraid it wouldn't be good enough and was considering sending it back... I'm sending it back with no reservations because of this video. Thanks.
Thank you for the feedback! Excited for you!
Thank you! Keep doing videos like this, you have so much knolwedge that is worth to share
well thank you
i like it, thanks for showing the results of both boards jointed together.
yep!
Guess I’ll be making one of these soon as I cannot afford a jointer!
heck yeah, an easy solution!
I made one from a different video,now I'm going to have to remake it ,damn,but yours is by far the best
Lifesaver bro..damn I thought it was virtually impossible without a jointer. I have so many projects I wanna do that requires a jointer or atleast jointed edges and this is a great idea 💡 🤔!!
underrated channel ! good stuff man!
thank you!! Maybe i'll jump back on youtube one of these days lol
Just an FYI, they make Bessey auto tensioning clamps now, that automatically adjust when you clamp them down, so you don't have to make thickness adjustments to the toggle clamps. It's worth spending the extra money on the auto setting clamps, because people say they perform amazingly well. Like the Bessey HH70 clamp.
Thanks for sharing this. Any reason why you went through the trouble of aligning the top and bottom sheets? I think you just needed to have the bottom sheet against the fence and the top sheet could really be anywhere and didn’t have to be flush with the bottom sheet.
Very cool. I like the simplicity and effectiveness. Thanks.
thank you! Hope it works well for ya
😲 wow nice joint thanks for the video
thanks!!
Great job explaining everything
Thanks mike, glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you so much and for the detailed explanation. One question. Why use a wood jointer jig for table saws when one isn't needed??
missing the point of your question i think. I use this jug anytime a jointer is needed and when my jointer doesn't cut it
Great tip. Great video. Excellent info. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you!!
This is great. Thanks for making it! Really appreciate the effort you put into it and it is super easy to understand. Subscribed, liked etc.
Thank you very much for this tutorial! 🙂
2:53 If you add a miter track under your jig, you won't have to rely on the fence to get a straight cut, AND, you won't have issues with the clamps hitting the fence.
I'd love to hear more, send me a message!
@@SawdustandStuff Sorry, I should have said miter RAIL, that would fit into your saw's miter track. It's easy, cut a 1/2 inch strip off a piece of 3/4 pine, or plywood to the length of your jig, and attach it the same way you would attach miter rails under a table saw sled.
@@PaganWizard right on, but that doesn't allow me to have a variable sized piece of wood. since it is following the exact same track parallell to the blade it would make all of my cuts the same width, which i do not want
The thing about a jointer is that it's the most dangerous tool in woodworking, on par with the old non-riving knife equipped table saws. It seems like many people don't realize how dangerous they are. This should be factored in when people get into woodworking, because every woodworking channel on UA-cam assumes that a person has a jointer, and is comfortable using one. If you read a few horror stories about jointers, you won't even use one again. I've decided that I'll only use a jointer if I make custom push blocks and jigs to keep my hands as far away from the blades as possible. (I'm not convinced that the little plastic push blocks that everyone uses are sufficient to keep your hands away during a kickback.)
Good video and project, Ryan! Thanks for sharing the info. Can’t wait for the next one. ☝🏻
thank you! Still deciding what the next one will be !
That's a great idea. Thank you for your time..:)
Thanks for the watch!
The jig can only do a maximum size of the base of your jig, any idea's that does not mean I have to have several jigs?.. ty in advance
AWESOME THANK YOU VERY MUCH>>>>>>>new subscription
Thanks for the great video, very informative and I will be making one of these as soon as possible.
love to hear that, Cliff!
Nice cut 😀
Where did you find that neat push stick?
Awesome jig! Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
so i have to mae a new jigg for different sizes of boards, mine are not wide like the piece you demostrated yours on? thanks for the video, an oldie here that may be missing the obivous, as I often do at age 75.
make one that fits any needs you have!
I'm pretty new to wood working and I've tried this not once but twice and my boards just aren't coming out flush. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong.
hmmm. likely either not keeping the wood flush with the fence or the wood is moving on the jig.
This is awesome. Thank you for the tips!
absolutely, thanks for watching!
Use a superfine cutting blade and your edges will come out so smooth they're almost reflective.
i'll have to check that out. Any suggestions?
Great video!
Thank you!
good job man, thanks for sharing 🙏
thank you!
If you used a say 1/4" ply base and then used 1.5" top piece and (if needed) higher spacers do you think the dust collection would be better/fixed? Because that would put the lumber you are straightening only 1/4" above the table saw? Just a thought, great video.
likely, yes! Truth is this table saw sucks and is the reason the dust collection is held up
Will that size of jig work on a 8 ft board?
wouldnt a track saw by itself be enough, with its long straight track, to square up the length of a board?
in theory. Width of the piece of material matters. Really hard to use a track saw on a piece less that maybe 8" wide because the track doesn't sit right.
The jig needs to have a straight edge in order for it to work. How does someone without a track saw ensure that? This seems like a chicken or egg situation.
A variety of ways! You could run your circular saw along Any straight edge. There is a trick with a level against the table saw fence. There is a way to do it with a router table and flush trim bit. What tools do you have access too?!
Buy a sheet of plywood or MDF and use one of the factory edges as your straight edge.
@@rickbeyer6633 terrible idea. Never good cuts, and never actually a straight edge
Hello....just found your channel. If the piece of wood that the clamps are attached are secured, what if you need to trim a 2 x 4, 2 x 6 or a different width? Do you have to make a jig for each size? Thanks!
❤❤❤
Thanks for sharing 🤙
sure thing!
Love it! Will be building one tonight and modeling it after this. Scrap veneer plywood going to good use! My question is about the height of the toggle clamps. You had no trouble getting through 6/4 red Oak with what appears to be about a 4/4 height for the clamps? How much leniency is there with regards to height? I can't picture jointing an edge on stock much thicker than 6/4 ever. Though maybe an 8/4.
if you need to adjust that portion you can use thicker stock to attach the clamps to or go with a different style toggle clamps!
@@SawdustandStuff I went ahead and added a 1/2" block similar to yours under the clamps and above the 3/4" plywood. Will test it tonight!
what kind of speed square is that your using to push the wood?
Just one i found on etsy!
Great video man! 🤙🏼
Thank you!!
Not sure that my terminology is correct so please be kind! If you have a "factory edge" on piece of MDF or plywood would that work as your straight edge instead of cutting one?
Yes.
Entendí lo expuesto, pero seria bueno que fuera en español. Gracias por la ayuda. Soy de Uruguay. Saludos.
no entiendo :)
Yeh I have a similar question as one of the last posts about how to get your first true straight edge?
What tools do you have? A circular saw?
@@SawdustandStuff table saw, circular saw, bench top planer
@@tracydaniels2982 you can buy a straight edge at the store to get the perfect straight cut with your circular saw. Kreg and bora both sell an alignment tool, otherwise you could buy a sheet material that you know is straight and use that as the guide!
I have watched SO MANY videos on this topic. This seems like a great build but i don't understand why it makes the board straight.
If your fence is accurate, why can't you just run a board through, flip it and it should be parallel?
Why is this not accurate?
Thanks.
I'm a little confused on this. How is this jig any different than putting the board against your fence if the fence is square? If theres a bow in the board it wouldn't matter if it was against a square fence or this square jig, right?
the jig will ensure that the board itself is square with the fence as you cut. If you don't use this jig and try squaring up the bowed board without it, you will just end up with a thinner board with a bow
i have plenty of osb ..can i make this jig with a osb board ? .using the most smooth face to make sure is flat with the saw table face ?
I would think so, but you will have more unnecessary friction. As stated in the video. I used all scrap wood.
Does the jig need to be as long as the board? Thinking 12 feet.
gotta be close enough that it is on the table saw bed when the blade hits the material if that makes sense
@@SawdustandStuff perfect sense. Have you ever seen or done a 12footer? Guessing I’ll need a clamp every 3 feet?? Maybe 4?? 3 sounds better.
I may ha e missed this in the video but how long is this jig? Also is it a le to straight line a 8 foot board? Is that a rigid 4512 table saw?
You can make it as long or as short as you'd like. I would make the jig as long as the material you're going to be cutting! It's a delta 725 table saw!
Suhweet!
thanks!!
After struggling this past weekend with trying to get a 1x12 square, I really need something like this. I have a small compact circular saw and a bosch table saw. How can I get a straight line with the compact circular saw?
The way I would go is buying a straight edge at the store (kreg and bora both sell some sort of straight rip guide), and then use that to get your first straight edge. Could also do it with a factory edge on plywood, but those aren’t always straight!
A 4 foot or six foot level
Like it.
thanks rob!
I would love to show you something you can add to those Toggle Clamp to make them Wrench Free. Cool Video:) Thanks.
no wrenches needed.
Here watch this video and it will explain things better: ua-cam.com/video/HlN4EcHSalA/v-deo.html
@@SawdustandStuff , here is a small video of what I am talking about with those Toggle Clamps. ua-cam.com/video/HlN4EcHSalA/v-deo.html
@@clampplus735 send me some and i can take a look.
If you can send me your address I will see what I can do , my email is rkwoods9135@gmail.com
First let me say: The music was VERY distracting - hard to hear you. That said: Interesting jig! All the others I've seen use a runner in the table track to define the straight edge, which is more complicated to fabricate than this one.
Noted. Still a work in progress on my editing for sure. Thanks for sticking it out!
Since you already have the track saw you don't really need to make the table saw jig. Using the jig is a 2 step operation with very poor dust collection in step 1. Using the track saw instead of the jig takes 3 steps in total but has good dust collection for all 3 steps. The end of the video shows the 2 step jig method with poor dust collection. The 3 step track saw approach is: step 1 using the track saw to make one edge straight, step 2 is using the table saw with the new straight edge against the table saw fence, step 3 is flipping the board over and using the table saw to cut the width of the table saw blade off the board edge that was cut by the track saw. Done. Excellent dust collection. Why use the table saw to remove the track saw edge? Because the track saw might have an ever so slight variation from 90 degrees. That very slight variation from 90 does not matter for most projects but it would for jointing boards for a table top. Plus using the track saw looks inherently safer than the jig (unless on makes a new jig for every possible width of boards one is trying to joint).
You sound pretty passionate about your input. Track saw is a tool that should be bought after a jointer. Most people searching for this won’t have a track saw available. If you’re wondering, my 1 step process is to joint the boards on my jointer, yet I still made this video.
Yes, I'm really like how flexible a track saw is for jointing (in addition to other things). I agree with you that a jointer is the best one step tool. Nothing can beat it for efficiency in normal production work. But there are a few cases where a track saw can prepare boards for joining that would difficult or even dangerous to do with a table saw or even a jointer. Although I've not had to do it personally I've seen a track saw used to prepare boards over 12 feet for joining. To do that on a jointer would require a careful set up of extra infeed and outfeed support tables plus 25 feet of clear space to run a 12 board through the jointer (or table saw). A track saw will prepare such long boards with just 14 or so feet of clear space. Of course one would have join a 118 track to a 40 inch track to do the track saw cut. I've also seen a track saw used to prepare two 4x8 sheets of plywood for joining in a glue up. I can't imagine successfully running a 4x8 sheet through a jointer without making a new fence of at least 24 inches. Joining two 4x8 sheets is likely even less common than jointing 12 long boards, but it is something that can been done better with a track saw than any other tool (at least any other tool I could imagine being able to afford). To repeat myself, I agree with you that for jointing boards of normal length and width a jointer is the way to go. Although we disagree on which to buy first (I'd get the track saw before the jointer), I respect the fact that for your needs and work flow, getting the jointer first is a great decision.
@@brianmckenzie9171 right on. I've got a project like that as we speak
😁👍👏👏👏
how long were those boards
I recall them being about 7 feet
4:14 $75.00 for 18 board feet of 6/4 red oak?
Something like that, yep!
@@SawdustandStuff Wow. You must have gotten that from a big box retail store or something. At a lumber yard (that sells cabinet grade lumber) that would have been half that price if not cheaper
Of course, that board looked like it was clear lumber.....(no defects such as knots cracks/splits) That does make a difference on price.
@@thelegendricky yeah, finish grade. $3.50/BF or something.
@@SawdustandStuff I pay about $2.00 a board foot for 13/16 red oak straight line one edge. Its usually 95% usable....I just cut around the bad stuff.
This doesn’t make sense to me. So you are putting it against a straight board you cut. So why would you just put on the fence which is also straight???
Because the straight fence you're using doesn't move when you clamp down the board. If you run a curved piece against your table saw fence it will just follow the curves of the board.
that small push stick and your fingers moving back and forth! bye!
how dare i use the push stick the saw gave me with the saw.
Dude, I know you mean well, but FYI, that annoying, distracting background "music" that you felt compelled to dub into you video completely ruined it making the entirety of it unwatchable.
thanks for watching! Was one of the first videos I made, so there are bound to be some things that Coloradomountainman8659 doesn't like.
I’m sorry-don’t take this personal but I couldn’t concentrate on your video for the distracting music accompanying it. I don’t understand why some woodworking videos insist on forcing you to listen to music while you are trying to learn a woodworking technique.😕
one of the many mistakes on this video. Still learning as i go
I cringe at the wobbly push-stick triangle thing
same
Not everyone has a track saw this video is garbage for beginners and I have everything but that
hahahhahahahahahahahahaha good one
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Not a great video. Better luck next time.
i better go to therapy now