Nice neat job. You get a medal for pointing out errors that you make because we learn by our mistakes and go forward, can't really have confidence in a know-it-all tech and you are a breath of fresh air. Amp sounds epic!!🎖
A thick round toothpick will also work; it doesn't pull the heat away (like a metal screwdriver would) as you tack-solder the other parts, and the solder won't stick to the toothpick. PS, Brad, I saw you using a beveled or "hoof" tip; I bought a couple of those recently but haven't tried them out yet.
I was going to suggest a grid stopper on the paraphase inverter. You're miles ahead of me. 😎 Do you know why Fender wiggles the bias of the output valves for their trem? I built a Supro type thing that inserts the trem at the preamp and it's a much stronger effect than any Fender I've tried.
I wish these were more common, or that there were kits for these like there are for the 5e3's. To me these have just a much better sound, especially the vibrato circuit. As always, beautiful work.
As would I, but where is there a good place to mount it and also preserve the integrity of this vintage amp? You can't just have a loose pot flopping around in there
Legendary. The markings on the back of the amp of course say 117/60, are there any concerns about someone trying to plug this in to that down the line? I am guessing not, as it would just be undervolted, like a variac might do, right?
the "backup" diodes makes absolutely no sense to me, if you put a diode in parallel with the tube you will bypass the tube, current will preffer to go through the dioe instead of the tube as the diode is a much easier path. You will raise the B+ by a considerate amount as you have a solid state rectifier now wich voltage drop is only a half volt instead of the 40v to 70v drop of a rectifier tube, you will also lose the sag from the tube as well, diodes doesnt sag, there will be no natural compression.
The backup diodes are in series, not parallel with the rectifier plates. You still get the same drop, as well as sag, they just only encounter half the PIV, making their life easier, and if they ever fail short circuit, the silicon rectifiers will pick up the slack, enabling the amp to finish the gig and protecting the filter caps from AC.
Hey Brad! quick question here! I bought years ago the Custom deluxe Reverb Reissue 68' but man, this thing is hissing as a mother of children, I replaced the filter caps, I changed some components from the board to the power tube sockets, I moved CT 100ohm resistors to the chasi, I did the channel summing mod, so they dont interfere with each other, I turned the NFB resistor to stock, replaced some resistors with metal films, and cut some grounding traces to isolate Preamp ground from PSU, so they ground at different chasis points, well the noise dropped quite a bit, the tone of the amp is fantastic, and for rehearsal an concerts its wonderful. So my question is, I'm a DIYer and I enjoy doing projects, is it worth to rebuild the amp? reusing everthing except the boards? I would only have to build from scratch the preamp PCB and rewire everything, is it really worth it? or the Deluxe Reverbs aren't that silent? I've heard that vintage ones are dead silent… Idk, I want to be able to practise with it without the distracting hissing at low volumes.
The main issue here is the grounding and power scheme for one of the preamp stages. It's easily addressed. I'll do a Q&A stream later this month where I'll go into it for you, so stay posted.
I'm surprised you didnt use radial caps; you could wire three radials on a 5-terminal strip even if you separated the preamp node ground from the others. The next time this amp gets recapped, a decade or more from now, there'll probably be no choice but to use radial caps.....
I'd like to avoid silicone affixed caps until there's no other choice on an amp of this vintage. One day I'll make a PCB which can be fixed to those two holes, but today is not that day.
@@BradsGuitarGarage, position the 3 radial caps sideways like you did here, silicone them to each other, and push them down to the chassis; that's all you really need, though you could put a pad of double-sided foam tape between the caps and the chassis if you were really worried about them rattling.
@BradsGuitarGarage , it's the *aesthetics* of putting a pcb into a vintage handwired amp that bugs me. I have no issue with well-designed PCB's in modern amps ---- 99% of the hifi gear I worked on every day for 20 years were PCB-based. Not a "skill set" issue at all.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Nice neat job. You get a medal for pointing out errors that you make because we learn by our mistakes and go forward, can't really have confidence in a know-it-all tech and you are a breath of fresh air. Amp sounds epic!!🎖
Yeah I'm stealing that screwdriver trick ❤️
Go for it, fella!
Hey, thanks for watching, man.
I know you've got your hands more than full.
A thick round toothpick will also work; it doesn't pull the heat away (like a metal screwdriver would) as you tack-solder the other parts, and the solder won't stick to the toothpick. PS, Brad, I saw you using a beveled or "hoof" tip; I bought a couple of those recently but haven't tried them out yet.
That screwdriver trick! Mind. Blown.
Same lol. Cashed it in already 😂
I’ve been using a pointy pick instead of a screw driver. It’s such a good trick. Tooth pick sounds cool to try though
Restoration to the highest standards, you can be really proud of your work. Thanks for posting.
Love these nitty-gritty detailed vids!
Great video, glad you made it to the vintage stuff!
Man, cant say enough about your attention to detail and the quality of your work Brad. Nice job brother man and what a sweet amp.
Very enjoyable to watch! Thanks!
there's me RING @21:46! Great Channel, And great work you do sir!
Great job Brad..Love it..Clean and excellent workmanship..Ed.. uk..😄
I'm totally going to steal that putty trick next time I have to break out Bertha for some chassis soldering! Oh, and that mini heat gun too!
Nice mate! Still can't get over how clean it looks ..
Any luck no nastys in Ep 3..
I have a soft spot for these 6G2's... Nice work Brad!
Good for another 60yrs with proper maintenance.
Thanks for the video.
Thanks!
Thanks so much, mate!
I really appreciate that and your membership.
I was going to suggest a grid stopper on the paraphase inverter. You're miles ahead of me. 😎 Do you know why Fender wiggles the bias of the output valves for their trem? I built a Supro type thing that inserts the trem at the preamp and it's a much stronger effect than any Fender I've tried.
Great work, Brad!
Mahalo Brad can't wait to hear the amp.
Such pretty work man, you should be proud. I wish I had an amp that needed your fixing hahah.
Love these vids. Thanks for sharing brother
Lovely work, fantastic amp!
I wish these were more common, or that there were kits for these like there are for the 5e3's. To me these have just a much better sound, especially the vibrato circuit. As always, beautiful work.
I think Mojotone were working towards it, but only got as far as the cabinet, faceplate and chassis.
Pro level
I would install a bias pot
As would I, but where is there a good place to mount it and also preserve the integrity of this vintage amp? You can't just have a loose pot flopping around in there
Awesome
Grid stoppers? Always and everywhere. JMO. YMMV.
Hi Brad Where do you order your teflon tubing? thank you Tony In Tennessee
Legendary. The markings on the back of the amp of course say 117/60, are there any concerns about someone trying to plug this in to that down the line? I am guessing not, as it would just be undervolted, like a variac might do, right?
The Eurostyle cord end should prevent anyone from connecting to a 110V outlet.
@@charlesjoynes9497 You aren't wrong, but who knows what may happen to this thing in the next 50 years.
I need a smaller tip for my heatgun.
Yeah, it's really required man.
I think this is a 5mm.
the "backup" diodes makes absolutely no sense to me, if you put a diode in parallel with the tube you will bypass the tube, current will preffer to go through the dioe instead of the tube as the diode is a much easier path. You will raise the B+ by a considerate amount as you have a solid state rectifier now wich voltage drop is only a half volt instead of the 40v to 70v drop of a rectifier tube, you will also lose the sag from the tube as well, diodes doesnt sag, there will be no natural compression.
The backup diodes are in series, not parallel with the rectifier plates.
You still get the same drop, as well as sag, they just only encounter half the PIV, making their life easier, and if they ever fail short circuit, the silicon rectifiers will pick up the slack, enabling the amp to finish the gig and protecting the filter caps from AC.
Was the heater voltage within safe limits with that new transformer?
6.5VAC
@@BradsGuitarGarage , There was so much laminated iron there I felt I should ask. Big tranny for a small amp!
That's the standard replacement from Hammond for several Fender amp models.
Hey Brad! quick question here! I bought years ago the Custom deluxe Reverb Reissue 68' but man, this thing is hissing as a mother of children, I replaced the filter caps, I changed some components from the board to the power tube sockets, I moved CT 100ohm resistors to the chasi, I did the channel summing mod, so they dont interfere with each other, I turned the NFB resistor to stock, replaced some resistors with metal films, and cut some grounding traces to isolate Preamp ground from PSU, so they ground at different chasis points, well the noise dropped quite a bit, the tone of the amp is fantastic, and for rehearsal an concerts its wonderful. So my question is, I'm a DIYer and I enjoy doing projects, is it worth to rebuild the amp? reusing everthing except the boards? I would only have to build from scratch the preamp PCB and rewire everything, is it really worth it? or the Deluxe Reverbs aren't that silent? I've heard that vintage ones are dead silent… Idk, I want to be able to practise with it without the distracting hissing at low volumes.
The main issue here is the grounding and power scheme for one of the preamp stages. It's easily addressed. I'll do a Q&A stream later this month where I'll go into it for you, so stay posted.
@@BradsGuitarGarage oh man! I'll be looking forward to it!
I'm surprised you didnt use radial caps; you could wire three radials on a 5-terminal strip even if you separated the preamp node ground from the others. The next time this amp gets recapped, a decade or more from now, there'll probably be no choice but to use radial caps.....
I'd like to avoid silicone affixed caps until there's no other choice on an amp of this vintage. One day I'll make a PCB which can be fixed to those two holes, but today is not that day.
@@BradsGuitarGarage, position the 3 radial caps sideways like you did here, silicone them to each other, and push them down to the chassis; that's all you really need, though you could put a pad of double-sided foam tape between the caps and the chassis if you were really worried about them rattling.
@@BradsGuitarGarage, a PCB in a vintage amp like this? 😳 Even if secured by just the two existing chassis holes, I don't like that idea!
A piece of fiberglass with copper on it no good, but you're okay with radial caps?
Sounds like a skill issue.
@BradsGuitarGarage , it's the *aesthetics* of putting a pcb into a vintage handwired amp that bugs me. I have no issue with well-designed PCB's in modern amps ---- 99% of the hifi gear I worked on every day for 20 years were PCB-based. Not a "skill set" issue at all.