Just did this with my '68 OTS E Type. Including new stub axles/Wilwood 4 pot calipers & vented rotors. One of the best upgrades I've done except the EDIS ignition system which was the best.
Did you know that series 3 discs and calipers fit a series 2. The discs are vented. I guess that's better if driving / braking hard at a track day event. Those German made lower ball joints are undoubtedly the way to go. Great looking rebuild as usual. Cheers.
Hi John, I’m just about to re assemble my front hub units. Can you give any advice on securing the main nut that holds the external bearing in place? How do you know how tight it should be? Thanks!
Hi - for reassembly on the bench you simply have the castle nut tightened just finger tight to hold everything in place. Then when you install it in the car you set the bearing tightness. Take a look at this video - ua-cam.com/video/lZPrDwkiiiA/v-deo.html The title is - Jaguar E Type Series II Rebuild - 2023-02-12 - Front Axel Assembly and Steering Rack This is a later video showing the installation in the car. In this video, I referenced a video from Richard Owen, with a link in the text and I followed his lead for the assembly. Richard does restoration for a living and has a very strong track record, he has helped me personally numerous times. Richard builds the front hub assembly on the vehicle and then sets the bearing preload. I personally still think you can build the front hub assembly on the bench, then install it on the car and set the bearing preload while on the car. You can choose the method you prefer. If in doubt, I suggest you follow Richards method. Ultimately you are limited on the preload to the castellated nut position and split pin assembly. I have a few miles on my car now and in the spring I am going to check the wheel bearing preloads now the car has settled a bit. I hope this helps - John
John it's so much easier to disassemble/assemble those uprights on the car. It's damn near impossible to get the right wheel bearing float on the bench. Next time! Those uprights and all the hardware are cadmium-plated steel.
I decided to paint them - I hope I don't regret it as I went back and forth on getting them powder coated. I used a Dupli-color Engine self etching primer and enamel to help with any heat issues.
Hi Hugh - when I ordered the parts for the front hub assembly I ordered new stub axle nuts as well. However, I must have ordered the wrong size as they did not fit when they arrived. A quick trip to ACE and I was able to get a nut but not a lock nut. The lock nuts are on order and I will fit them when they arrive
Just did this with my '68 OTS E Type. Including new stub axles/Wilwood 4 pot calipers & vented rotors. One of the best upgrades I've done except the EDIS ignition system which was the best.
Did you know that series 3 discs and calipers fit a series 2. The discs are vented. I guess that's better if driving / braking hard at a track day event. Those German made lower ball joints are undoubtedly the way to go. Great looking rebuild as usual. Cheers.
Hi John, I’m just about to re assemble my front hub units. Can you give any advice on securing the main nut that holds the external bearing in place? How do you know how tight it should be? Thanks!
Hi - for reassembly on the bench you simply have the castle nut tightened just finger tight to hold everything in place. Then when you install it in the car you set the bearing tightness.
Take a look at this video - ua-cam.com/video/lZPrDwkiiiA/v-deo.html
The title is - Jaguar E Type Series II Rebuild - 2023-02-12 - Front Axel Assembly and Steering Rack
This is a later video showing the installation in the car.
In this video, I referenced a video from Richard Owen, with a link in the text and I followed his lead for the assembly. Richard does restoration for a living and has a very strong track record, he has helped me personally numerous times.
Richard builds the front hub assembly on the vehicle and then sets the bearing preload. I personally still think you can build the front hub assembly on the bench, then install it on the car and set the bearing preload while on the car. You can choose the method you prefer. If in doubt, I suggest you follow Richards method.
Ultimately you are limited on the preload to the castellated nut position and split pin assembly.
I have a few miles on my car now and in the spring I am going to check the wheel bearing preloads now the car has settled a bit.
I hope this helps - John
Thanks John, that’s great!
John it's so much easier to disassemble/assemble those uprights on the car. It's damn near impossible to get the right wheel bearing float on the bench. Next time! Those uprights and all the hardware are cadmium-plated steel.
Hi Richard, thanks - I will do the float check on the wheel bearings when the uprights are on the car
Great video thanks. what did you decide to paint them with or did you powder coat them?
I decided to paint them - I hope I don't regret it as I went back and forth on getting them powder coated. I used a Dupli-color Engine self etching primer and enamel to help with any heat issues.
Are the nuts holding in the stub axles nylocs?
Hi Hugh - when I ordered the parts for the front hub assembly I ordered new stub axle nuts as well. However, I must have ordered the wrong size as they did not fit when they arrived. A quick trip to ACE and I was able to get a nut but not a lock nut. The lock nuts are on order and I will fit them when they arrive