@@FordBossMe It's a shame that getting the little bag of caps is so expensive, i understand they used to be bags of 4 or 5, but all listings i see now are $6+ dollars plus shipping for one single cap.
I'm not sure I like the idea of disabling the system that disengages them. This means the front drive train all the way back to the transfer case will be spinning all the time for no reason. One of the things I liked about the Fords having a disconnect at the hub is, in theory, it should be better all around to not have parts moving if you don't need to. Less wear and slightly better mpg.
Unfortunately this is what it is when you're driving a truck you're not driving it for fuel mileage and I hate to be that way but this is the best solution so far
@@FordBossMe I get it, it does make sense why ford is recommending this solution. It is still the best option for what it is, even if I don't like it. Too bad there isn't a way to manually permanently lock the hubs out of engagement. (where you could manually re-engage them when you want 4x4). But it defaults to engaged when everything is disconnected.
dobrze mowisz. nie tylko wiecej pali i zuzywa opony, ale lozyska przedniege dyferencjalu, krzyzaki przedniego walu sa caly czas obciazone i to w druga strone, bo napedzaja je kola a nie skrzynia rozdzialcza. zalaczenie na stale przednich kol to slaby pomysl dla zywotnosci przeniej lini napedowej. you say it right. not only does it burn more fuel and wear out the tires, but the front differential bearings and the front shaft cross-pieces are constantly loaded in the other direction, because they are driven by the wheels and not the transfer case. permanently engaging the front wheels is a bad idea for the life of the front drive line.
This absolutely sucks, I noticed you drove it around in the parking lot. Get on the road and you will notice a lot more front end noise than you would if the original states in place. You would feel this way if you paid 60K for a truck plus premium warranty and they disconnected a system that’s been around for years just because they didn’t want to fix the actual problem.
Hey Rich. Getting a inside look into The "Mechanic " At the Dealership is like having your DAD or Brother working there giving you the tips on how it works. It's like learning exactly how you do the thing's your doing Then getting the inside scoop. Then using it to your advantage. It really is a breath of fresh air. You are doing a great job showing us. Getting rid of this Taboo area into this almost secret space of car repair and maintenance. Shawn.
That's what I'm trying to do keep it open for everybody and then if they can't do it and they want to bring it to me I'm here I'm gonna treat them fair
@@FordBossMe Yes! Rich. All along. I have been watching your channel. You are setting a new trend in your field. A expert who allows us to come along. You have covered Ford's. There a huge desire for what your channel is putting out. Where I work ten guys. Are faithfully watching every video. The discussion of such videos at every lunch is the topic. Our parking lot at work is filled with Ford Trucks, cars, SUV'S and Town cars and Crown Vic's. I have said you are on to something really Big. The scope of your UA-cam Channel is right on the spot. No one is buying new. But repairing and maintenence of older vehicles. Is the thing. Stay true and honest. That's the key difference. Shawn.
I just serviced my IWE's. They were pretty gummed up. Seems like something that should be serviced or replaced regularly. To me, this tsb is more of a bandaid.
Great tip! I get the grinding from the IWE rubbing from time to time. I changed the smal valve and it got better. Now I'm going to try to change the acuator and see if that does the trick, of not I'll just go with this setup. I drive 95% in town anyways so it wont make much difference for me. Thanks for posting this.
For the 2020 models there's an updated bulletin (20-2307, models 2006-2020) which recommends to do the same thing, but without the reprogramming. I have removed the same vacuum line and installed vacuum caps on both ends a few days ago, which permanently locks the IWE actuators and the grinding noise I was was hearing from time to time is gone now. So far I haven't experienced any problems with this permanent lock, even if I step on it. No noise, no vibrations, no nothing.
@@greghoffman3146 I bought 2 sets of different size vacuum caps from a local automotive store (Canadian Tire) and just tried which one fits most snug. The product is called "Dorman HELP! Vacuum Cap Assortment" with the following sizes 5/32", 7/32", 5/16", 3/8", (2) 3/16", (2) 1/4". I had to use one cap from each set, so the correct size would be one of these 5/32", 7/32", 5/16", 3/8"
Is this mandatory on all f150s w 4A? I just started experiencing some even tire wear and grinding noise but seems to go back and fourth between the left and right tire in the front: I thought wheel bearing but could it possibly be this?
@@PatrickKnowles2024 FYI, I have applied this fix on my previous F150 which didn't have 4A (XLT model), but the issue was the same. Technically it's not "mandatory", but it is the most reliable fix for the constant loss of vacuum. You can apply this fix temporarily, and see what happens. However, this noise is very distinct and it can be quite loud so I don't think you would mistake it for a wheel bearing noise. In my case, when I stepped on it, then I heard the noise, but when I let go of the gas, then the noise was gone. You can try the same thing to diagnose it.
@@cymerus2 mine was when I started to turn to the left, had to use 4A the other day and then the noise started to happen when I turned to the right. It's a hummmg noise. 95k miles 2017 5.0 platinum
Thanks for the video. I have a 2019 F150 Platinum with the 4A 4x4 system. Along with doing this vacuum hose delete, what are you thoughts on replacing the Hub Actuators with Dorman Vacuum delete actuators as seen in this video? The goal being to eliminate the rubber diaphragm in the actuator that wears out. ua-cam.com/video/3gTEsz6ICZ8/v-deo.html
Can anyone answer my question please. By doing this does it hurt the truck in the long run? I changed the check valve and the actuator and maybe a couple weeks the noise came back. So I did what this said and the noise went away. Can someone please tell me this?
I have a 2018 with standard 2h 4h 4l type. I replaced both wheel bearings and IWEs . Vacuum tested everything and it holds vacuum. I still get an intermittent chatter and don't.wamt to spend the money replacing all those parts again so I just capped the vacuum like the 4A style. Seems to work fine now.
FYI. . Once again your information has helped me vastly. The 2nd warranty job on my 2018 3.5 was the IWE. Of course when I saw you had a video about the topic, I watched and like the phasers, went to the dealership informed and without fights or hiccups, got the work done and covered!!! Also ... keep up your work in your hometown Brother.. I'm In Ohio and just shake my head at whats going on out there. I saw you on multiple youtube videos fighting the fight!!!!
Only thing I’ve seen with systems that spin the 4wd system all the time even when not engaged is that I’ve seen a lot of pinion seal leaks on dodges that have that same system. It’s kinda hard to beat the 97-03 f150 center axle disconnect system haven’t seen a quarter of the issues as the iwe system but when the iwe system is fully functional it’s the smartest way to do it.
I had this happen to me, and it drove me nuts trying to figure it out. It only happened when I feathered the gas slowly in 2WD when going forward at any speed. As long as I feathered the gas, it sounded like something was clacking or not engaging. Simple enough fix that I didn't know at the time. This would have saved me some coin for sure.
Buddy of mine was into buying scrap/surplus 2-1/2 ton 6wd military trucks from Fort Ord. Out of several he'd make one. He'd check out the sprag in one of the gearboxes by driving out of town to where there was a big fat irrigation standpipe. He'd put the bumper against the pipe and spin all the tires. Ops check good!
LOL this is not a fix. This is permanent disengaging the IWE system. Not at all recommended. Now everyone who does this will need a front diff replacement much sooner than later. Ugh.
3:44 I agree in the tiny fuel mileage drop,but why increased tire wear? There’s a differential in the front the tires are free to spin at different speeds .What I noticed on mine is increased driveline vibration at highway speeds from spinning the front driveline at all times. I knew right away when my iwes weren’t working because you felt it.I’d been unhappy with this repair due to the highway NVH being worse . Maybe a front driveshaft rebalance would have helped but the truck only had 2000 miles on it I doubt anything was worn. I traded it in 3 months ago now that was just one of the many minor issues it had . Felt like it was always something,meanwhile my 11 Superduty f350 6.2 is a tank that just keeps going….
Beautiful. I was just about to replace the iwe on both sides and the front diff because the diff is noisy. The iwe were giving me a low speed grown but if I can just lock them in and replace the diff with out having to spend more money on the iwe system. Great info. Thanks 🙏
Would this same concept apply to a 2014 F150 that has the same 2H, 4A, 4H, 4L setup? I always hear a slight hum in the front of the truck in the winter when decelerating below 30MPH. I assume I am losing vacuum ? Thanks for the video
I've got this same problem too. Replaced the solenoid and check valve and still have the issue. Checked iwes and under hood for vacuum and they all held fine. Next up is to try this.
Hey @tlr8611, do you have any follow up? I just started experiencing this as well, your description is the closest thing to what I have. It's not a grinding for me, its a groaning or humming, almost like the tires are rubbing but they clearly are not. In the cold, between 25-5 mph, and for me its accelerating and decelerating. I also replaced both the check valve and the solenoid with no improvement.
Why don't they just fix the IWE? After all it WAS working. And i thought i paid for free wheeling hubs. Seems like a bandaid solution that you would do on the trail. Not sure if i am impressed with Fords fix on this issue. I have an 2018 F150 with 4A and it works fine. Hopefully it stays that way.
Thanks for the update. My 2018 F150 5.0 has had a whining sound ever since I had the TSB for rattle on deceleration and TSB for oil consumption. TSB's helped those problem's but then I started getting new whining sound. Any suggestions? Thanks
is there a reason you CAN'T do this on a '17 F150 without 4A? I know the TSB says to reprogram the TCCM and diagnose a vac leak normally, but any problem with just locking them like this?
This way works I've put probably 6,000 miles on the vehicle this way with no issues but it doesn't fix the Hub actuators it just eliminates them basically
Doing it this way removing the vacuum from it allows you to have four wheel drive again but realize everything is rotating now except for the transfer case so yes there's a little bit more wear but it's not that much
Hey Rich the vacuum line broke on my 2011 f 150 so the hubs were locked all the time . I noticed a 1 1/2 mpg decline in fuel mileage before I found the broken line. After I installed all new vacuum lines and the hubs were disengaged in 2 Hi the 1 1/2 mpg returned . Thanks for all your hard work !….
@@brookshardy593 I noticed it when changing the oil , it was broken where it attaches to the front crossmember right in the middle . The reason it broke was because the plastic vacuum line got brittle from age ( it is a 2011 ) . The new vacuum lines were $ 53 dollars on E Bay and Amazon. I also changed the solenoid valve and one way valve ( the cost for both were $ 29 dollars on Amazon . Do you know how to check if the system is working properly ?
@@thomasdaum1927 gotcha. And I believe so I don’t have a lift to Jack up my truck to check if the cvs are engaged. But, today i did check the vacuum going into the solenoid and it has good vacuum in 2H and none in 4H. Also took off the lines on the IWEs themselves and checked for vacuum which they did
@@brookshardy593 Sounds like you got it figured out . I Jack up one front wheel at a time and start the engine and see if the hub disengages . I check them every 5000 miles when I rotate the tires. Since I fixed the truck it is getting a solid 1 1/2 mpg more !
@@thomasdaum1927 good to know! And that’s the thing I’m still stumped as to why it’s still grinding. So maybe I do just need to see if it’s the Iwe. But the prior owner did have them replace because he had the same problem so not sure if the Iwe should fail 30k miles latwr
What perplexes me is Ford's solution to all these IWE problems is to bypass the engineering designed to have them fully disengaged in 2WD. Seems the mechanic's fix is contrary to what Ford designed in the first places. This method guarantees more wear and tear on the drive train, poorer gas mileage and replacing tires sooner. I have a 2013 that has the grinding and scraping sounds and I'm going to replace the actuators. I hope that fixes the original design. Think about this, why would Ford design this drive system to have vacuum disengage 4WD when the vast majority of truck drivers spend the most time in 2WD. Why not design the system to engage the 4WD electronically and forego all the hoses, switch, solenoid, vacuum reservoir, actuators, etc...totally perplexing.
Looks like an old one. But thank you for sharing. Those are the things a mechanic can "R" you on. Ford Boss Me knows what it is. We thank him for sharing that. 4x4 fixes ARE EXPENSIVE!
Thank you, I wish I found this last year before hav8ng both IWEs replaced only for them to fail again. And who cares if the front diff is moving? The rear diff always spins already!
Confused but I'm just an amateur consumer but faithful listener. Wasn't there a discussion a few weeks ago concerning the 4A setting and that it was not a good idea to use it all the time? Isn't that the same thing that the bulletin fix does?
Additionally, capping the lines on 4A only equipped vehicles seems to have far less MPG impact - suspicion is that as the 4A tcase still rotates the front driveshaft in 2H due to fluid wash, so that front driveline assembly isn't as hard for the now engaged front axles to turn due to that indirect assistance from the tcase.
Different systems someone and in 4A it tries to engage the four-wheel drive when it detects wheel slippage or one turning faster than the other when you're in two wheel drive and you have the Hub actuators locked out you're not trying to engage the four wheel drive like you would be in 4a in a bronco
I have a 2017 F150 Lariat with 73,000 miles and my front diff already took a crap and it’s being replaced tomorrow. Of course Ford tells me there’s nothing they can do due to me being out of warranty so the $3800 will come out of my pocket at a local mechanic 🤦🏼♂️ Found some forum threads online of many people having this issue with F150s that have the 4A settings and front diffs going out. Have you heard of this? Also, do you think once I get my truck back from having new front diff installed that I should go ahead and cap this vacuum line as well? I’m just worried about the potential extra wear on the front end that I’m having replaced already. Thanks a lot
My 2018 Platinum (4A) started moaning/groaning when slowing down at low speeds (actually only started to notice it when the weather got cooler), took it in and they rebuilt the front diff. Like how's an 8.8" diff supposed to wear out when it's barely ever turning (my truck barely ever sees 4WD). Here I am 6k later and it's gotten cool again and now I'm hearing it, again. Wonder if it's actually just IWE issues and causing transfer case drag when slowing down with the 4 auto (clutch based) transfer case...
There used to be a problem with enough engine vacuum at idle, which is used to engage the front axles to the wheel hubs. You are disconnecting the vacuum, so now the front hubs are engaged full time to the front axle. The 4x4 switch engages the front drive shaft to the main driveshaft. You’ll get a little less gas mileage since the front shaft is always being driven by the wheels when in 2H. Otherwise, the front shaft wouldn’t spin if the hubs were disengaged - less drag.
To:Ford Boss Me As one of your more than 108K subscribers and owner of a 2004 Expedition 4X4 I wanna thank you for all the videos you load up in this UA-cam channel. While I watched this video I think of the same humming problem I'm having with my Expedition. I wanna change out both IWE's but while doing some research I discovered that Dorman makes a 600-105 vacuum delete IWE kit. So before I proceed with replacing both IWE's, can you please give us, your viewers, your honest opinion on which would be the better, the OEM IWE or the Dorman 600-105 vacuum delete kit? Please reply soon. Thanks again.
Love the channel. I have a2017 lariat fx4. Had the intermittent hub grinding. I disconnected the solenoid plug. Fixed. Any difference between your fix with removing the vacuum line and what I did?
You know I'm not really sure exactly how the system looks at it to the T I think the reason they have you remove the vacuum line is because you know at that point it's 100% blocked off as to where the solenoid could get stuck in a specific position that was causing the chattering anyway
Rich, would you recommend this fix for a f150 that has the fox 2.0 lift kit (complete strut). Mine was adjusted for 2.5 lift. With the lift, the angle for the cv shafts are more aggressive. I assume tracking down my IWE problem would be best in the long run to prevent all those additional parts from moving….
I had the same problem about 4 months ago. When looking in PTS, he told me to put a plug in between a vacuum line where I cut it. I took a plastic clip that I got from our body shop. It made the hose look natural, but I thought it was a cheesy fix. The other mechanics kind of laughed at Ford's fix for this problem. But the customer was happy and did not come back for the same issue.
Does this cause excess wear and tear on the bearings and axle? Or, was the vacuum system something Ford did just to eek out some additional fuel mileage?
Manual four wheel drive shift on the floor never let me down. I own 3 fords 1979 f150 , 2005 F250, & 2012 F450 all with maunal four wheel drive shift and never had a problem.
As a first time ford owner I really appreciate all the updates you give in our trucks! Really nice to have someone looking out for us! Would you say there’s a problem with running the iwes and axles locked at all times?
My son has a 2015 f-150 lariat, He has a extremely load clunk , bang if in 4x4 and you put the beans to it dirt or pavement 4A 0r 4H sounds like its coming from the drivers side. we have replaced the wheel bearings, IWE'S and check valve that ford recommends. He has a leveling kit that raises the front 1" stock rims a little bigger tire. we have removed the front diff cover to look for chunks of gears but none. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I need some help. I have a 2018 F150, and I recently replaced the driver side CV axle. After doing so I started hearing a grinding noise. I thought it was the wheel bearing, so I replaced the driver and passenger side. I still heard the noise. So now you're probably thinking it's the IWE. Well so was I, so I replaced the IWE check valve, and still heard the noise. I then replaced the solenoid and still heard the noise. I went and checked the IWE at the wheel bearing and when I applied vacuum the IWE moved in on both sides. I then checked the vacuum line to make sure there was no leak. Did not find any leaks. I noticed the noise comes on about half a mile after I left the area. Whether it's from home or work. The noise would sound around 25 MPH and start off with a low grinding sound. With higher speeds the noise would become faster and higher in pitch. It would stop around 55 MPH. I also noticed when I applied vacuum that the driver side axle would move. Shouldn't it not move? When vacuum is applied that would show that it's in 2-wheel drive, correct? Do you have any opinion on my situation?
Okay these are very finicky systems and the basic programming for this is after you leave the house it stays on for about a half a mile and then it completely goes into two wheel drive after you leave also installing those iwes correctly is very critical checking to make sure there's no vacuum leakage in the lines everything is very critical so outside of what you did I can't tell you what's wrong because you did everything that I would have thought but I think that maybe you need to watch my other videos on this iwe situation as well you have not watched them all I can tell you that
You're going to have to get that look at seems to me like you're either having a problem with the vacuum lines the iwe's themself or the vacuum solenoid
I had a low pitch hum/grind coming from under my feet in a 2017 f150 lariat. Had to have the entire front diff rebuilt at 30k miles under warranty. Im at 50k with my warranty up and the issue is back. Only used 4x4 once to get up my driveway in the snow, but the lariat 4x4 with 4a apparently is slightly engaged even in 2wd it is turning the front drive shaft. Should I do this to my 2017?
Just put a little cap on the line that goes down to the iwes pull it off the solenoid and put a little cap right there we don't have to overthink this man
I've had the same issue, but I just disconnected the solenoid. My hubs are locked in all the time. It will go into 4wd just fine when I flip the dash switch. What's the difference between the hose removal and unplugging the solenoid
Had the exact same issue on my 2018 F150. Replace the solenoid and check valve assembly. It takes about 3 minutes and cost $60.00 from ford. Or, you can do what the video states and your gas mileage will suffer.
*I loved the 4W Auto in my 2015 Platinum. I could use it on the street without binding like a traditional 4W HI would do* The only thing, as with most transfer cases, is to be sure to roll a few feet so they engage before using heavy throttle. Else it or the front hub etc would poop out and make horrific sound when it did. 😮
@@FordBossMe Wait, when you took off the vaccum line, and capped it, locks the hubs in but not the transfer case, but 4A locks the hubs and puts the transfer case in a differential mode to allow front and rear axle differential? Also instaed of removing the vaccum line, an you simple reverse the check valve?
Is there a TSB reference number from ford??
Yes there is I've spoke about a previously let me stop doing what I'm doing so I can go back and grab it again
Tsb 22-2219
@@FordBossMe thank you
@@FordBossMe It's a shame that getting the little bag of caps is so expensive, i understand they used to be bags of 4 or 5, but all listings i see now are $6+ dollars plus shipping for one single cap.
@@FordBossMe Also looks like they back-dated this to be 2006-2020 F150's with 4A.
I'm not sure I like the idea of disabling the system that disengages them. This means the front drive train all the way back to the transfer case will be spinning all the time for no reason. One of the things I liked about the Fords having a disconnect at the hub is, in theory, it should be better all around to not have parts moving if you don't need to. Less wear and slightly better mpg.
Unfortunately this is what it is when you're driving a truck you're not driving it for fuel mileage and I hate to be that way but this is the best solution so far
@@FordBossMe What if people stop using 4A on dry pavement (like they should anyway)
@@FordBossMe I get it, it does make sense why ford is recommending this solution. It is still the best option for what it is, even if I don't like it.
Too bad there isn't a way to manually permanently lock the hubs out of engagement. (where you could manually re-engage them when you want 4x4). But it defaults to engaged when everything is disconnected.
dobrze mowisz. nie tylko wiecej pali i zuzywa opony, ale lozyska przedniege dyferencjalu, krzyzaki przedniego walu sa caly czas obciazone i to w druga strone, bo napedzaja je kola a nie skrzynia rozdzialcza. zalaczenie na stale przednich kol to slaby pomysl dla zywotnosci przeniej lini napedowej.
you say it right. not only does it burn more fuel and wear out the tires, but the front differential bearings and the front shaft cross-pieces are constantly loaded in the other direction, because they are driven by the wheels and not the transfer case. permanently engaging the front wheels is a bad idea for the life of the front drive line.
This absolutely sucks, I noticed you drove it around in the parking lot. Get on the road and you will notice a lot more front end noise than you would if the original states in place. You would feel this way if you paid 60K for a truck plus premium warranty and they disconnected a system that’s been around for years just because they didn’t want to fix the actual problem.
Hey Rich. Getting a inside look into The "Mechanic " At the Dealership is like having your DAD or Brother working there giving you the tips on how it works. It's like learning exactly how you do the thing's your doing Then getting the inside scoop. Then using it to your advantage. It really is a breath of fresh air. You are doing a great job showing us. Getting rid of this Taboo area into this almost secret space of car repair and maintenance. Shawn.
Thanks
That's what I'm trying to do keep it open for everybody and then if they can't do it and they want to bring it to me I'm here I'm gonna treat them fair
@@FordBossMe Yes! Rich. All along. I have been watching your channel. You are setting a new trend in your field. A expert who allows us to come along. You have covered Ford's. There a huge desire for what your channel is putting out. Where I work ten guys. Are faithfully watching every video. The discussion of such videos at every lunch is the topic. Our parking lot at work is filled with Ford Trucks, cars, SUV'S and Town cars and Crown Vic's. I have said you are on to something really Big. The scope of your UA-cam Channel is right on the spot. No one is buying new. But repairing and maintenence of older vehicles. Is the thing. Stay true and honest. That's the key difference. Shawn.
I just serviced my IWE's. They were pretty gummed up. Seems like something that should be serviced or replaced regularly. To me, this tsb is more of a bandaid.
Great tip! I get the grinding from the IWE rubbing from time to time. I changed the smal valve and it got better. Now I'm going to try to change the acuator and see if that does the trick, of not I'll just go with this setup. I drive 95% in town anyways so it wont make much difference for me. Thanks for posting this.
For the 2020 models there's an updated bulletin (20-2307, models 2006-2020) which recommends to do the same thing, but without the reprogramming. I have removed the same vacuum line and installed vacuum caps on both ends a few days ago, which permanently locks the IWE actuators and the grinding noise I was was hearing from time to time is gone now. So far I haven't experienced any problems with this permanent lock, even if I step on it. No noise, no vibrations, no nothing.
What vacuum caps did you use?
@@greghoffman3146 I bought 2 sets of different size vacuum caps from a local automotive store (Canadian Tire) and just tried which one fits most snug. The product is called "Dorman HELP! Vacuum Cap Assortment" with the following sizes 5/32", 7/32", 5/16", 3/8", (2) 3/16", (2) 1/4". I had to use one cap from each set, so the correct size would be one of these 5/32", 7/32", 5/16", 3/8"
Is this mandatory on all f150s w 4A? I just started experiencing some even tire wear and grinding noise but seems to go back and fourth between the left and right tire in the front: I thought wheel bearing but could it possibly be this?
@@PatrickKnowles2024 FYI, I have applied this fix on my previous F150 which didn't have 4A (XLT model), but the issue was the same. Technically it's not "mandatory", but it is the most reliable fix for the constant loss of vacuum. You can apply this fix temporarily, and see what happens. However, this noise is very distinct and it can be quite loud so I don't think you would mistake it for a wheel bearing noise. In my case, when I stepped on it, then I heard the noise, but when I let go of the gas, then the noise was gone. You can try the same thing to diagnose it.
@@cymerus2 mine was when I started to turn to the left, had to use 4A the other day and then the noise started to happen when I turned to the right. It's a hummmg noise. 95k miles 2017 5.0 platinum
Thanks for the video. I have a 2019 F150 Platinum with the 4A 4x4 system. Along with doing this vacuum hose delete, what are you thoughts on replacing the Hub Actuators with Dorman Vacuum delete actuators as seen in this video? The goal being to eliminate the rubber diaphragm in the actuator that wears out.
ua-cam.com/video/3gTEsz6ICZ8/v-deo.html
I just took my check valve and reversed it, been good ever since, even in 4A (2018 Platinum)
Still good? Might do this.
Also, if you have 4a and you do this, do you need a reprogram? Or just flip it and good?
@MrHossola Did you have to reprogram?
Can anyone answer my question please. By doing this does it hurt the truck in the long run? I changed the check valve and the actuator and maybe a couple weeks the noise came back. So I did what this said and the noise went away. Can someone please tell me this?
08 owner here, so I can say...Ford still producing shitty 4WD systems.
This worked 100%. My ford got quiet right away.. I'll probably use as a temporary solution. Thank you
I replaced the iwe check valve and the actuator and the grinding stopped. So do I still need to do this?
I have a 2018 with standard 2h 4h 4l type. I replaced both wheel bearings and IWEs . Vacuum tested everything and it holds vacuum. I still get an intermittent chatter and don't.wamt to spend the money replacing all those parts again so I just capped the vacuum like the 4A style. Seems to work fine now.
That's how my system is done
Question. Will that hurt the truck in the long run. I don’t want to damage the truck
Thanks, my 2015 F150 just started doing this. Was getting ready to spend about $800 to take it to the shop. I'll try this.
FYI. . Once again your information has helped me vastly. The 2nd warranty job on my 2018 3.5 was the IWE. Of course when I saw you had a video about the topic, I watched and like the phasers, went to the dealership informed and without fights or hiccups, got the work done and covered!!! Also ... keep up your work in your hometown Brother.. I'm In Ohio and just shake my head at whats going on out there. I saw you on multiple youtube videos fighting the fight!!!!
I think my 2008 Ranger 4x4 front axle shafts always spin. Theres no hubs to lock/unlock. Just the transfer case motor.
I got the caps from ace hardware for .45cents
What about 2012. What might be different. What about manual hubs.
Now I understand why it takes a certain amount of time for the 4HI to engage.
Only thing I’ve seen with systems that spin the 4wd system all the time even when not engaged is that I’ve seen a lot of pinion seal leaks on dodges that have that same system. It’s kinda hard to beat the 97-03 f150 center axle disconnect system haven’t seen a quarter of the issues as the iwe system but when the iwe system is fully functional it’s the smartest way to do it.
My Jeep has the CAD. I never have problems with it.
I had this happen to me, and it drove me nuts trying to figure it out. It only happened when I feathered the gas slowly in 2WD when going forward at any speed. As long as I feathered the gas, it sounded like something was clacking or not engaging. Simple enough fix that I didn't know at the time. This would have saved me some coin for sure.
Buddy of mine was into buying scrap/surplus 2-1/2 ton 6wd military trucks from Fort Ord. Out of several he'd make one. He'd check out the sprag in one of the gearboxes by driving out of town to where there was a big fat irrigation standpipe. He'd put the bumper against the pipe and spin all the tires. Ops check good!
That's a bs fix by ford..why would spinning the whole front dif assembly all the time be excepted...
I tend to agree. Wound not be a happy camper if FORD service did this to my truck. I'm not in favor of losing MPG's and adding wear to the frontend.
The TSB says for non raptor models only, could you explain why this is the case please?
Just give us back manual hubs and problem solved.
Loving this channel!!! Thank you for your Wealth of Knowledge !!! 🙏♥️
LOL this is not a fix. This is permanent disengaging the IWE system. Not at all recommended. Now everyone who does this will need a front diff replacement much sooner than later. Ugh.
@rpc2112 Ford says this is the fix and although I don't like it they make lockout kits as well
3:44 I agree in the tiny fuel mileage drop,but why increased tire wear? There’s a differential in the front the tires are free to spin at different speeds .What I noticed on mine is increased driveline vibration at highway speeds from spinning the front driveline at all times. I knew right away when my iwes weren’t working because you felt it.I’d been unhappy with this repair due to the highway NVH being worse . Maybe a front driveshaft rebalance would have helped but the truck only had 2000 miles on it I doubt anything was worn. I traded it in 3 months ago now that was just one of the many minor issues it had . Felt like it was always something,meanwhile my 11 Superduty f350 6.2 is a tank that just keeps going….
I honestly do not understand how the "problem is solved." Ford should fix it right.
Beautiful. I was just about to replace the iwe on both sides and the front diff because the diff is noisy. The iwe were giving me a low speed grown but if I can just lock them in and replace the diff with out having to spend more money on the iwe system. Great info. Thanks 🙏
Love all the videos but why is it always about my truck, which hasn't had any issues. Just one more thing to listen for.
That is what I did to my 2007 f150 and 2012 3.5 Ecoboost.
If the 2015 I’m looking at tomorrow isn’t done would you suggest I do this
Ehhhh
For the tsb you talked about being programmed for the truck would the dealer know if its been reprogrammed
Will it work on a 2020 f150 5.0. I have a winding noise then goes away then slowing down it picks back up
It may
What did you use to plug vacuum holes?
Would this same concept apply to a 2014 F150 that has the same 2H, 4A, 4H, 4L setup? I always hear a slight hum in the front of the truck in the winter when decelerating below 30MPH. I assume I am losing vacuum ? Thanks for the video
I've got this same problem too. Replaced the solenoid and check valve and still have the issue. Checked iwes and under hood for vacuum and they all held fine. Next up is to try this.
Same here on a 2013
Hey @tlr8611, do you have any follow up? I just started experiencing this as well, your description is the closest thing to what I have. It's not a grinding for me, its a groaning or humming, almost like the tires are rubbing but they clearly are not. In the cold, between 25-5 mph, and for me its accelerating and decelerating. I also replaced both the check valve and the solenoid with no improvement.
I’ve been running 4A to avoid that scraping sound. So if I follow these steps I can run 2H ? (2015 F150 Platinum)
Try it you're not going to hurt anything
Thank you for this video. It solved my problem and works great. Keep up the videos and great content.
Why don't they just fix the IWE? After all it WAS working. And i thought i paid for free wheeling hubs. Seems like a bandaid solution that you would do on the trail. Not sure if i am impressed with Fords fix on this issue. I have an 2018 F150 with 4A and it works fine. Hopefully it stays that way.
I can't answer those questions for them
I'm with you. Was thinking the same...
Thanks for the update. My 2018 F150 5.0 has had a whining sound ever since I had the TSB for rattle on deceleration and TSB for oil consumption. TSB's helped those problem's but then I started getting new whining sound. Any suggestions? Thanks
Honestly I have no idea typically that's from the front transmission pump but I don't know that that's the case if I'm not looking at the vehicle
they should have done this years ago, thank you for the tip!
is there a reason you CAN'T do this on a '17 F150 without 4A?
I know the TSB says to reprogram the TCCM and diagnose a vac leak normally, but any problem with just locking them like this?
Not really, it can also be done that way
@@FordBossMe good, 'cause i already did it! 😊
Great Video! can i still use 4auto or will it still work if i delete the vacuum line?
Yes you can!
Thank you for this! I was having issues and my truck wouldn’t even engage 4x4. Works as it should now.
This way works I've put probably 6,000 miles on the vehicle this way with no issues but it doesn't fix the Hub actuators it just eliminates them basically
You could have a solenoid issue or a vacuum line issue or a hub actuator issue
Doing it this way removing the vacuum from it allows you to have four wheel drive again but realize everything is rotating now except for the transfer case so yes there's a little bit more wear but it's not that much
thank you for the info!! exactly what i needed.
Hey Rich the vacuum line broke on my 2011 f 150 so the hubs were locked all the time . I noticed a 1 1/2 mpg decline in fuel mileage before I found the broken line. After I installed all new vacuum lines and the hubs were disengaged in 2 Hi the 1 1/2 mpg returned . Thanks for all your hard work !….
How did you know the vacuum line was broke? And how much was it to fix? Think I might have the same issue
@@brookshardy593 I noticed it when changing the oil , it was broken where it attaches to the front crossmember right in the middle . The reason it broke was because the plastic vacuum line got brittle from age ( it is a 2011 ) . The new vacuum lines were $ 53 dollars on E Bay and Amazon. I also changed the solenoid valve and one way valve ( the cost for both were $ 29 dollars on Amazon . Do you know how to check if the system is working properly ?
@@thomasdaum1927 gotcha. And I believe so I don’t have a lift to Jack up my truck to check if the cvs are engaged. But, today i did check the vacuum going into the solenoid and it has good vacuum in 2H and none in 4H.
Also took off the lines on the IWEs themselves and checked for vacuum which they did
@@brookshardy593 Sounds like you got it figured out . I Jack up one front wheel at a time and start the engine and see if the hub disengages . I check them every 5000 miles when I rotate the tires. Since I fixed the truck it is getting a solid 1 1/2 mpg more !
@@thomasdaum1927 good to know! And that’s the thing I’m still stumped as to why it’s still grinding. So maybe I do just need to see if it’s the Iwe. But the prior owner did have them replace because he had the same problem so not sure if the Iwe should fail 30k miles latwr
What about 4A
What perplexes me is Ford's solution to all these IWE problems is to bypass the engineering designed to have them fully disengaged in 2WD. Seems the mechanic's fix is contrary to what Ford designed in the first places. This method guarantees more wear and tear on the drive train, poorer gas mileage and replacing tires sooner.
I have a 2013 that has the grinding and scraping sounds and I'm going to replace the actuators. I hope that fixes the original design.
Think about this, why would Ford design this drive system to have vacuum disengage 4WD when the vast majority of truck drivers spend the most time in 2WD. Why not design the system to engage the 4WD electronically and forego all the hoses, switch, solenoid, vacuum reservoir, actuators, etc...totally perplexing.
Thanks so much! Stay safe and keep up the good work! You’re a credit to your craft, not many like you around anymore. God Bless!
Looks like an old one. But thank you for sharing. Those are the things a mechanic can "R" you on. Ford Boss Me knows what it is. We thank him for sharing that. 4x4 fixes ARE EXPENSIVE!
mission accomplished, engineering and technology have achieved poor reliability, poor quallity and higher cost to own and repair.
Thank you, I wish I found this last year before hav8ng both IWEs replaced only for them to fail again. And who cares if the front diff is moving? The rear diff always spins already!
Confused but I'm just an amateur consumer but faithful listener. Wasn't there a discussion a few weeks ago concerning the 4A setting and that it was not a good idea to use it all the time? Isn't that the same thing that the bulletin fix does?
No. This engages the CV axles, not the clutch inside the transfer case.
The transfer case is not engaged so no power is going to the front axles. It's just free spinning.
Additionally, capping the lines on 4A only equipped vehicles seems to have far less MPG impact - suspicion is that as the 4A tcase still rotates the front driveshaft in 2H due to fluid wash, so that front driveline assembly isn't as hard for the now engaged front axles to turn due to that indirect assistance from the tcase.
Different systems someone and in 4A it tries to engage the four-wheel drive when it detects wheel slippage or one turning faster than the other when you're in two wheel drive and you have the Hub actuators locked out you're not trying to engage the four wheel drive like you would be in 4a in a bronco
I have a 2017 F150 Lariat with 73,000 miles and my front diff already took a crap and it’s being replaced tomorrow. Of course Ford tells me there’s nothing they can do due to me being out of warranty so the $3800 will come out of my pocket at a local mechanic 🤦🏼♂️
Found some forum threads online of many people having this issue with F150s that have the 4A settings and front diffs going out. Have you heard of this?
Also, do you think once I get my truck back from having new front diff installed that I should go ahead and cap this vacuum line as well? I’m just worried about the potential extra wear on the front end that I’m having replaced already. Thanks a lot
My 2018 Platinum (4A) started moaning/groaning when slowing down at low speeds (actually only started to notice it when the weather got cooler), took it in and they rebuilt the front diff. Like how's an 8.8" diff supposed to wear out when it's barely ever turning (my truck barely ever sees 4WD). Here I am 6k later and it's gotten cool again and now I'm hearing it, again. Wonder if it's actually just IWE issues and causing transfer case drag when slowing down with the 4 auto (clutch based) transfer case...
Junk yard units are $500. Its just nuts and bolts and can be done on a Saturday.
There used to be a problem with enough engine vacuum at idle, which is used to engage the front axles to the wheel hubs. You are disconnecting the vacuum, so now the front hubs are engaged full time to the front axle.
The 4x4 switch engages the front drive shaft to the main driveshaft.
You’ll get a little less gas mileage since the front shaft is always being driven by the wheels when in 2H. Otherwise, the front shaft wouldn’t spin if the hubs were disengaged - less drag.
To:Ford Boss Me
As one of your more than 108K subscribers and owner of a 2004 Expedition 4X4 I wanna thank you for all the videos you load up in this UA-cam channel.
While I watched this video I think of the same humming problem I'm having with my Expedition.
I wanna change out both IWE's but while doing some research I discovered that Dorman makes a 600-105 vacuum delete IWE kit.
So before I proceed with replacing both IWE's, can you please give us, your viewers, your honest opinion on which would be the better, the OEM IWE or the Dorman 600-105 vacuum delete kit?
Please reply soon.
Thanks again.
Love the channel. I have a2017 lariat fx4. Had the intermittent hub grinding. I disconnected the solenoid plug. Fixed. Any difference between your fix with removing the vacuum line and what I did?
You know I'm not really sure exactly how the system looks at it to the T I think the reason they have you remove the vacuum line is because you know at that point it's 100% blocked off as to where the solenoid could get stuck in a specific position that was causing the chattering anyway
@@FordBossMe thanks for the reply. I'll disconnect the vacuum line and reconnect the solenoid.
will this work on my 2008? my setup looks a little different. 5.4 litre
Hey Rich! I have a 2019 XLT without 4A I have the clunking of the IWE. Should I have a reprogram of the TCCM or would my issue be something else?
Rich, would you recommend this fix for a f150 that has the fox 2.0 lift kit (complete strut). Mine was adjusted for 2.5 lift. With the lift, the angle for the cv shafts are more aggressive. I assume tracking down my IWE problem would be best in the long run to prevent all those additional parts from moving….
Is this applicable to F-150s that don’t have 4A, shift on the fly vs torque on demand (only have 2H, 4H and 4L options)?
Thank you!!!!!!
I had the same problem about 4 months ago. When looking in PTS, he told me to put a plug in between a vacuum line where I cut it. I took a plastic clip that I got from our body shop. It made the hose look natural, but I thought it was a cheesy fix. The other mechanics kind of laughed at Ford's fix for this problem. But the customer was happy and did not come back for the same issue.
What kind of cap are y’all using?
Dang it I just had my two IWEs and Hubs replaced. It could have been a simple fi.
Instead of removing the vacuum line and capping you can simply leave it alone and unplug your vacuum solenoid. that will do the same thing
I’ve had mine unplugged for a while. Issues with mine since 70k miles 🤦🏻♂️
@Ford Boss Me Does the TSB state except Raptor? If so, do you know why?
Does this cause excess wear and tear on the bearings and axle? Or, was the vacuum system something Ford did just to eek out some additional fuel mileage?
when was this issued? I had my hubs replaced a year ago and they didn't removed that vacuum line. now having the same roaring issue again
Where do you get those little plugs??
Vacuum Plugs At Your Local Parts Store or Amazon
Manual four wheel drive shift on the floor never let me down. I own 3 fords 1979 f150 , 2005 F250, & 2012 F450 all with maunal four wheel drive shift and never had a problem.
what about 2020 model, is any changes?
so will the 4a still work as it is supposed to?
Yes
@@FordBossMe Thanks, just had my 2nd left front hub replaced, think I might pull the line and keep engaged. Thanks
Ignorant question. What did you cap it with?
Vacuum line cap
Amazon Miscellaneous kit
Have been buying ford since to 2011 and since then done this if I hear some noise going on
What does the acronym IWE stand for? Thank you.
What size are these Rubber Caps needed for the mod ?
Manuel locking hubs is the preferred fix
As a first time ford owner I really appreciate all the updates you give in our trucks! Really nice to have someone looking out for us! Would you say there’s a problem with running the iwes and axles locked at all times?
Not really
What size of cap do i need and can i buy them at autozone?
My son has a 2015 f-150 lariat, He has a extremely load clunk , bang if in 4x4 and you put the beans to it dirt or pavement 4A 0r 4H sounds like its coming from the drivers side. we have replaced the wheel bearings, IWE'S and check valve that ford recommends. He has a leveling kit that raises the front 1" stock rims a little bigger tire. we have removed the front diff cover to look for chunks of gears but none. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Did you ever figure it out cause I have the same issue
I need some help. I have a 2018 F150, and I recently replaced the driver side CV axle. After doing so I started hearing a grinding noise. I thought it was the wheel bearing, so I replaced the driver and passenger side. I still heard the noise. So now you're probably thinking it's the IWE. Well so was I, so I replaced the IWE check valve, and still heard the noise. I then replaced the solenoid and still heard the noise. I went and checked the IWE at the wheel bearing and when I applied vacuum the IWE moved in on both sides. I then checked the vacuum line to make sure there was no leak. Did not find any leaks. I noticed the noise comes on about half a mile after I left the area. Whether it's from home or work. The noise would sound around 25 MPH and start off with a low grinding sound. With higher speeds the noise would become faster and higher in pitch. It would stop around 55 MPH. I also noticed when I applied vacuum that the driver side axle would move. Shouldn't it not move? When vacuum is applied that would show that it's in 2-wheel drive, correct? Do you have any opinion on my situation?
Okay these are very finicky systems and the basic programming for this is after you leave the house it stays on for about a half a mile and then it completely goes into two wheel drive after you leave also installing those iwes correctly is very critical checking to make sure there's no vacuum leakage in the lines everything is very critical so outside of what you did I can't tell you what's wrong because you did everything that I would have thought but I think that maybe you need to watch my other videos on this iwe situation as well you have not watched them all I can tell you that
I have 18 ford f150 fx2 I put on 4WD and i go back 2wd but it’s still feel like I’m in 4WD I have to turn of
You're going to have to get that look at seems to me like you're either having a problem with the vacuum lines the iwe's themself or the vacuum solenoid
I had a low pitch hum/grind coming from under my feet in a 2017 f150 lariat. Had to have the entire front diff rebuilt at 30k miles under warranty. Im at 50k with my warranty up and the issue is back. Only used 4x4 once to get up my driveway in the snow, but the lariat 4x4 with 4a apparently is slightly engaged even in 2wd it is turning the front drive shaft.
Should I do this to my 2017?
That's up to you it'll work either way
Will this hurt the front differential?
My vacuum line for my 2015 goes from the check valve to a T fitting. Is that where I would disconnect and cap?
Just put a little cap on the line that goes down to the iwes pull it off the solenoid and put a little cap right there we don't have to overthink this man
What are your thoughts on the dorman IWE deletes?
I've had the same issue, but I just disconnected the solenoid. My hubs are locked in all the time. It will go into 4wd just fine when I flip the dash switch. What's the difference between the hose removal and unplugging the solenoid
Nothing essentially as long as no codes are set and the solenoid doesn't stick open
Had the exact same issue on my 2018 F150.
Replace the solenoid and check valve assembly. It takes about 3 minutes and cost $60.00 from ford. Or, you can do what the video states and your gas mileage will suffer.
What size of cap do i need? Can i buy it at auto zone?
It was perfect bro much appreciated
Can anyone tell me what plugs u used to seal the lines
Regular vacuum cap lines - find them at your local parts store or on Amazon as an assortment
amzn.to/4afnrwe
What plugs did u use
amzn.to/4afnrwe
Hi on my 2018 f150 both front wheel bearings have needed replaced one before 35,000 then about one year later. Could this be the reason????
Yes it could
Will this work on non 4a models?
I'm so lucky, i turn the button in my f150, 2015, and it works everytime
*I loved the 4W Auto in my 2015 Platinum. I could use it on the street without binding like a traditional 4W HI would do*
The only thing, as with most transfer cases, is to be sure to roll a few feet so they engage before using heavy throttle. Else it or the front hub etc would poop out and make horrific sound when it did. 😮
Yeah but I don't care who you are 4x4 automatic should not be used on any type of Drive payment unless you're racing somebody
@@FordBossMe Wait, when you took off the vaccum line, and capped it, locks the hubs in but not the transfer case, but 4A locks the hubs and puts the transfer case in a differential mode to allow front and rear axle differential? Also instaed of removing the vaccum line, an you simple reverse the check valve?
is this the same case with 2018 raptors?
What if I do this and my front cv axles still don't engage? Jacked truck up and cannot get the front cv to engage in any configuration I've tried.
Then your iwe are shot
What about the 2014 and earlier trucks? Can I remove that same vacuum hose and cap it on that truck?
Should be able to yes