Thank you for answering my insolent comment the other day. Actually, we have received some interesting news, so we would like to inform you. It was announced that Toyota Motor Corporation of Japan has completed the development of individual batteries and will install them in the next EV vehicles, and the charging time of the new solid-state battery pack is only about 10 ~ 15 minutes, and the problem of explosion and flame has been completely solved.
No problem. I have no reason to believe anyone is hostile. I enjoy these dialogues :-) I have heard about the solid state batteries. Quite high density, but a problem with expansion when charging. Shall be interesting to see how they proves the consept, and how durable they are. Way to early to conclude anything. Though I have very high thrust in the Toyota quality, so I am sure they are doing a superb job.
Thank God for your Daughter and her clarity on cutting the wood around the bolt ……. you might have continued the fight for several more hours as you were in the thick of it.
Hi If you haven't already made up the engine beds you might consider using a composite bed using hardwood, urethane strip, then hardwood. This will completely isolate the engine from the hull and stop the transmission of vibrations. Bolt the urethane to the bottom timber, then urethane to top timber; separate bolts.
Hi Rob, I will use recycled hardwood-based plywood from the interior, and glass this in. I will check out your urethane advice. However the engine mounts are also dampened with rubber. Should not that be sufficient?
Great to see all the progress here through gravity, space, and time. Looking forward to seeing how it all gets fitted out, thank you both for sharing, really appreciate the effort and time you’ve invested in this project.
Nice to meet you! I'm watching it from Japan. Give up the heavy engine, how about a motor hybrid? The performance of recent generators has improved, and if solar and wind power are combined, the amount of other power installed will increase dramatically. Japan stereotyped people and I'm not good at English. I commented on the Google Translate function, but please forgive me if there are any rude points such as mistranslation. From distant Japan! I support you wholeheartedly.
Nice to meet you too. Thank you for commenting, all the way from Japan. If this engine was old I would follow your advice and go for a hybrid system. But is is only 5 years old and has less than 200 hours of running time. So I will keep it - for now. Thank you for your support! :-)
Good to see things moving along. You seemed to be fighting the engine more than you needed ... why didn't you just remove the nuts that held the motor to the motor mounts? It would have freed the motor, and then you could have removed the motor mounts and bedding from each side separately. I'm sorry to see that the motor is having issues keeping the oil on the inside, but as we all know that is just part of "Boat Life"!!!
Hi Robert. Good question. I actually did consider just lifting it off the engine mounts. That would have been easy. However there was for me two points against it; 1) it would may be harder to get the wood off the bolts without ruining them, and 2) i found that keeping the wood underneath the engine mounts, still on the engine, may help stabilizing it (if necessary). I really did no big brainwork on any of these considerations. If the engine had lifted easy there would have been no show...a frustrated boat-owner. Yes all part of boat life. :-)
I was on the point of suggesting a lifting frame and you made one! But I do have an idea re mounting the engine; you mentioned the benefits and drawbacks of stainless steel vs. plywood. I suggest that you should be able to have both. First, build the subframe in stainless and then overlay it with the ply or other material - I notice that someone else has mentioned urethane. Whatever, rubber is always a good sound deadener. I hope you don't encounter any more bolts like that one! 😢
Hi David. I am skipping the stainless and build only on plywood made from teak (reuse what I have removed from the boat) and glass it in. Lets se how it goes.... :-) There are rubber on the engine mounts. Should be ok.
That was probably more fun for us to watch than it was for you to actually do. The ‘armchair advice’ would have been to unbolt the resilient mounts and lift the engine leaving the wood behind for attention later. Good decision to keep the engine in its current position. BTW when you handled the propellor shaft it did look like the play was excessive - cutlass bearing?😃👍⛵️
Thanks, Norman. It is our intention to make something "likeable". Still, you are right, not all is fun about it. But restoring a boat like this is based on a dream :-) It was really my choice not to undo the engine from the mounts, but to lift it all. I figured it would be easier - all in all. Yes, I am considering changing the cutlass bearing. It really should be ok, but....hmmm....
Would love to see a thrust block mounted back in the Vee section thereby keeping propshaft lower then using a driveshaft between thrust block and motor allowing normal level mounting of engine at a height to suit. Once thrustblock mounted then no need to align engine to propshaft and can be mounted on normal engine mounts. NO Vibrations Quieter less wear on prop shaft and the benifits keep on coming
I would love that too, Craig. But afraid that would mean quite substantial costs. Still, that could be considered later, if the boat proves to be a success. The noice is an issue - always! Also I would love to have a gear with a 9 degree angle so the engine could sit lower and more leveled. Luckily this engine accept up to 15 degrees of angle.
You can always improve on rubber mounts by using Eurathane poly bushes.. and by isolating the mounts from the cradle using high density cork or slabs of rubber or poly bushing material.. its used extensively in performance car suspension an engine mounts. If an engine sits for a long time the oil seals on the crank cases tend to squash and are reluctant to spring back even when warm ..some addatives can swell them up ..but usually its a service job ..
Yes, it is possible to upgrade later. Might go for that to attenuate noise. I actually think the oil leak is a hole in the actual steel-tube for pumping out oil. Rusted a hole. :-)
Good see you again I like your humor lol you have patience for sure I'm assuming you are married where is your wife and all of this? You are fortunate to have your daughter with you going through this experience. Good memories. And maybe I forgot this is a motor that you purchased to replace the old one and it's leaking oil? Assuming you bought it as is? Oh I forgot not to make so many questions or comments. I'm assuming the black car in the parking lot is your car that's in the video and for the life of me as a car guy I'm trying to figure out what kind of car it is. I almost thought BMW but those aren't BMW headlights I thought maybe Volvo but they don't have a broken Grill like that. Steve Naples Florida
Hello again, Steve. Thanks. Unlike Mads in Sail Life, Mark in Wildling Sailing and several others, I must do this restoration part time and alone. That is totally ok with me. My wife prefer garden living (and -work) way over boating. Yes, my daughter, Sara is filming part of the videos and she does all the editing of the videos. The motor/engine is 5 years old and was already in the boat when I bought it. And yes, it is leaking oil. Seems to be rusted a hole in a oil-draining tube. The car seen on the video os a BMW car, easy to recognise the "kidneys". My car is a Nissan eNV200 electric car. Not anything fancy like a BMW (my old father actually has a BMW i3). I need something modest, cheap and simple to transport tools and rubish to and from the boat. :-)
I am not sure. I had a Volvo Penta 2002 once, in a First 32.5 sailboat. That was a strange setup, but worked without any major oil leaks. This Nanni I have in the video has however developed a leak....
If you move the engine in the direction to the middle of the boat you may raise it too high so the engine is above the level of the floor. The shaft is at an angle. Hope I explained it OK.
I got it :-) The question from last video was if I should move the engine further back, shortening the shaft. In this video I decided not to move the engine. Work vs gain was not satisfying. :-) The shaft is about 9 degrees angle.
Thanks, (Boatman)Mark. Yes, I also figured an A frame. This is Ep 12. There are 7 videos ahead. But the answer is: Not yet. I will do a light overhaul on the engine prior to re-installing it.
Hi Blimp, great video as always! Congratulations with your progress. Could I ask you what are your plans about the windows? Is it possible to restore them or you have to replace? Thank you for posting your stuff! Best wishes, k
Hi "k". I will restore the pilothouse windows. The cabin windows I plan to replace. They are possible to restore, but I believe that takes a lot of investigation and testing.
No calculations, actually. Just working off experience. 2x4 placed in an A-frame is very strong. This engine is less than 300 kg. Previously in life I have done lifting in such frames, to get rid of roots from small trees. No problem pulling more than a ton upwards, using a chain hoist. This setup had plenty of margins IMHO. :-)
But of course :-) This is transparent, Glenn. I made a decision on how to remove the engine and the wooden structure underneath the engine mounts. I think it turned out ok. Some would have done it differently. Some would not consider any of this work :-)
A real hoot😅, please keep pushing forward, your imagination keeps me laughing.
Thank you
I might sometimes be a bit to much "me", as in this video. No offence intended :-)
I must confess I was laughing a lot this time, good fight sir.😂
p.s. it's called A frame. 😉
So A-frame. I was right!!! Good for me :-D
Thank you for answering my insolent comment the other day. Actually, we have received some interesting news, so we would like to inform you. It was announced that Toyota Motor Corporation of Japan has completed the development of individual batteries and will install them in the next EV vehicles, and the charging time of the new solid-state battery pack is only about 10 ~ 15 minutes, and the problem of explosion and flame has been completely solved.
No problem. I have no reason to believe anyone is hostile. I enjoy these dialogues :-)
I have heard about the solid state batteries. Quite high density, but a problem with expansion when charging. Shall be interesting to see how they proves the consept, and how durable they are. Way to early to conclude anything. Though I have very high thrust in the Toyota quality, so I am sure they are doing a superb job.
Thank God for your Daughter and her clarity on cutting the wood around the bolt ……. you might have continued the fight for several more hours as you were in the thick of it.
Yes, I might still be there, fighting. ;-)
Keep up your good works. Just think of the possibilities when finally done…!
Agree! Focus on the end target might boost motivation. :-)
Hi If you haven't already made up the engine beds you might consider using a composite bed using hardwood, urethane strip, then hardwood. This will completely isolate the engine from the hull and stop the transmission of vibrations. Bolt the urethane to the bottom timber, then urethane to top timber; separate bolts.
Hi Rob, I will use recycled hardwood-based plywood from the interior, and glass this in. I will check out your urethane advice. However the engine mounts are also dampened with rubber. Should not that be sufficient?
Just watching this isn't for the faint of heart.
That´s true! This is serious stuff ;-)
I enjoy your efforts and your enthusiasm greatly, keep up the good job mate, I’ll keep watching and be careful stay safe.!!
Thanks! I will certainly do my very best. :-)
Thank your daughter!
Sure will, Robert! :-)
Like your videos. Daughter is clever! 👍
Hi Blimp! That was an entertaining video for me and a lot of work for you. Keep going sir!
Thanks, Duncan! Sure will do! Sara did all the editing, by the way :-)
@@hsobstad She did a great job! Hi to Sara (and great catch on the "hoover" - lol)!
@@duncanjames914 :)
Great to see all the progress here through gravity, space, and time. Looking forward to seeing how it all gets fitted out, thank you both for sharing, really appreciate the effort and time you’ve invested in this project.
Thanks Ric! Sara and I will do our best to keep the videos coming. :-)
Nice to meet you! I'm watching it from Japan. Give up the heavy engine, how about a motor hybrid? The performance of recent generators has improved, and if solar and wind power are combined, the amount of other power installed will increase dramatically. Japan stereotyped people and I'm not good at English. I commented on the Google Translate function, but please forgive me if there are any rude points such as mistranslation. From distant Japan! I support you wholeheartedly.
Nice to meet you too. Thank you for commenting, all the way from Japan.
If this engine was old I would follow your advice and go for a hybrid system. But is is only 5 years old and has less than 200 hours of running time. So I will keep it - for now.
Thank you for your support! :-)
@@hsobstad
Good to see things moving along. You seemed to be fighting the engine more than you needed ... why didn't you just remove the nuts that held the motor to the motor mounts? It would have freed the motor, and then you could have removed the motor mounts and bedding from each side separately. I'm sorry to see that the motor is having issues keeping the oil on the inside, but as we all know that is just part of "Boat Life"!!!
Àlso vintage Motorcycles 🇬🇧🤣🧙♂️
Hi Robert. Good question. I actually did consider just lifting it off the engine mounts. That would have been easy. However there was for me two points against it; 1) it would may be harder to get the wood off the bolts without ruining them, and 2) i found that keeping the wood underneath the engine mounts, still on the engine, may help stabilizing it (if necessary). I really did no big brainwork on any of these considerations. If the engine had lifted easy there would have been no show...a frustrated boat-owner. Yes all part of boat life. :-)
Did´nt pick that up.... :-D
I was on the point of suggesting a lifting frame and you made one! But I do have an idea re mounting the engine; you mentioned the benefits and drawbacks of stainless steel vs. plywood. I suggest that you should be able to have both. First, build the subframe in stainless and then overlay it with the ply or other material - I notice that someone else has mentioned urethane. Whatever, rubber is always a good sound deadener. I hope you don't encounter any more bolts like that one! 😢
Hi David. I am skipping the stainless and build only on plywood made from teak (reuse what I have removed from the boat) and glass it in. Lets se how it goes.... :-)
There are rubber on the engine mounts. Should be ok.
@hsobstad have you considered going electric? Not a cheap option, but afterwards, it should work wonders on the operating budget!
@@Davidcallard I have considered it, slightly, but again found that the engine is to new to be changed. And the electric options are VERY pricey...
Tack för att du delar med dej av filmer på när du pular med båten
Hei Stefan. Herlig kommentar! "Pular" betyr noe helt annet på norsk ;-)
@@hsobstad 🤔vad😉
@@stefanhellemar4501 SVE: "när du pular med båten" NOR: "når du har sex med båten" ;-)
That was probably more fun for us to watch than it was for you to actually do. The ‘armchair advice’ would have been to unbolt the resilient mounts and lift the engine leaving the wood behind for attention later. Good decision to keep the engine in its current position. BTW when you handled the propellor shaft it did look like the play was excessive - cutlass bearing?😃👍⛵️
Thanks, Norman. It is our intention to make something "likeable". Still, you are right, not all is fun about it. But restoring a boat like this is based on a dream :-)
It was really my choice not to undo the engine from the mounts, but to lift it all. I figured it would be easier - all in all.
Yes, I am considering changing the cutlass bearing. It really should be ok, but....hmmm....
Would love to see a thrust block mounted back in the Vee section thereby keeping propshaft lower then using a driveshaft between thrust block and motor allowing normal level mounting of engine at a height to suit. Once thrustblock mounted then no need to align engine to propshaft and can be mounted on normal engine mounts. NO Vibrations Quieter less wear on prop shaft and the benifits keep on coming
I would love that too, Craig. But afraid that would mean quite substantial costs. Still, that could be considered later, if the boat proves to be a success. The noice is an issue - always!
Also I would love to have a gear with a 9 degree angle so the engine could sit lower and more leveled. Luckily this engine accept up to 15 degrees of angle.
Great video…
Thanks, John!
You can always improve on rubber mounts by using Eurathane poly bushes.. and by isolating the mounts from the cradle using high density cork or slabs of rubber or poly bushing material.. its used extensively in performance car suspension an engine mounts.
If an engine sits for a long time the oil seals on the crank cases tend to squash and are reluctant to spring back even when warm ..some addatives can swell them up ..but usually its a service job ..
Yes, it is possible to upgrade later. Might go for that to attenuate noise.
I actually think the oil leak is a hole in the actual steel-tube for pumping out oil. Rusted a hole. :-)
@@hsobstad that will do it as well 👍🏼😁
Good see you again I like your humor lol you have patience for sure I'm assuming you are married where is your wife and all of this? You are fortunate to have your daughter with you going through this experience. Good memories. And maybe I forgot this is a motor that you purchased to replace the old one and it's leaking oil? Assuming you bought it as is? Oh I forgot not to make so many questions or comments. I'm assuming the black car in the parking lot is your car that's in the video and for the life of me as a car guy I'm trying to figure out what kind of car it is. I almost thought BMW but those aren't BMW headlights I thought maybe Volvo but they don't have a broken Grill like that.
Steve Naples Florida
Hello again, Steve. Thanks.
Unlike Mads in Sail Life, Mark in Wildling Sailing and several others, I must do this restoration part time and alone. That is totally ok with me. My wife prefer garden living (and -work) way over boating.
Yes, my daughter, Sara is filming part of the videos and she does all the editing of the videos.
The motor/engine is 5 years old and was already in the boat when I bought it. And yes, it is leaking oil. Seems to be rusted a hole in a oil-draining tube.
The car seen on the video os a BMW car, easy to recognise the "kidneys". My car is a Nissan eNV200 electric car. Not anything fancy like a BMW (my old father actually has a BMW i3). I need something modest, cheap and simple to transport tools and rubish to and from the boat. :-)
I almost forgot! I have heard that Volvo Penta engines have a reputation for leaking oil!
I am not sure. I had a Volvo Penta 2002 once, in a First 32.5 sailboat. That was a strange setup, but worked without any major oil leaks. This Nanni I have in the video has however developed a leak....
If you move the engine in the direction to the middle of the boat you may raise it too high so the engine is above the level of the floor. The shaft is at an angle. Hope I explained it OK.
I got it :-)
The question from last video was if I should move the engine further back, shortening the shaft. In this video I decided not to move the engine. Work vs gain was not satisfying. :-)
The shaft is about 9 degrees angle.
Great Job, keep up the good work. BTW, you might call it an A Frame. Did you stop the oil leak? After all that cleaning you don't want am oily bilge!
Thanks, (Boatman)Mark. Yes, I also figured an A frame. This is Ep 12. There are 7 videos ahead. But the answer is: Not yet. I will do a light overhaul on the engine prior to re-installing it.
I've got to be honest, I preferred the engine 'hoovering'......
:-D
Hi Blimp, great video as always! Congratulations with your progress. Could I ask you what are your plans about the windows? Is it possible to restore them or you have to replace? Thank you for posting your stuff! Best wishes, k
Hi "k". I will restore the pilothouse windows. The cabin windows I plan to replace. They are possible to restore, but I believe that takes a lot of investigation and testing.
@@hsobstad thank you for your reply, very helpful 🙌
you are very funny.
Who? Me? ;-D
Your daughter sounds like she has an Australian accent.
Nice! She tends to vary the accent. :-)
That engine was WAY out of alignment. Will cause all sorts of trouble.
Yes. Strange sounds coming from the prop tube....
That looked rather marginal. Howe did you calculate the strength of the frame?
It worked so he got the calculations right! 🙂
No calculations, actually. Just working off experience. 2x4 placed in an A-frame is very strong. This engine is less than 300 kg. Previously in life I have done lifting in such frames, to get rid of roots from small trees. No problem pulling more than a ton upwards, using a chain hoist. This setup had plenty of margins IMHO. :-)
God anyone can see what your doing wrong take the bolts off engine mounts
But of course :-) This is transparent, Glenn. I made a decision on how to remove the engine and the wooden structure underneath the engine mounts. I think it turned out ok. Some would have done it differently. Some would not consider any of this work :-)
I have decided to marry your daughter. This should be only slightly less difficult than your project.
So I should quit and buy a better boat....?