Beiter offers an 1/4-5/16 Adapter for their V-Box-System (the V-Box is 5/16). For "bulky" vs thin weights I want to point out, that the further out the weight is from the dampener, the higher the leverage the weight has on the dampener which means that you can have a stronger dampening with the same weight or same dampening with less weight. You can increase leverage of weight on the dampener by adding spacers, e.g. plastic ones) between the dampener and the weight. Hope it is clear what I mean.
And if you want to reduce the stack size even more, you can always use tungsten weights (though they're generally super expensive) :) RamRods does indeed have the adapters/reducers.
I just ordered a Decut Crown stabilizer set. I understand that the 30" bar is fine for my 28-ish" draw, but will it also be suitable for my son who has a 24"/25" draw?
@@JakeKaminskiArchery That's what I was hoping, 30" for both my son and me.. I found another source that has options for both the sidebars (10", 12", 14") and the extension (3", 4", 5"). From your videos, I assume sidebars of 12" will be good for both of us, but what about extension length, 4" or 5", or does it matter that much?
I've never used a stabiliser: nor has anyone explained why I would need to, or how stabilisers work. I can't help feeling that, since - at four-and-a-half minutes into this video, you haven't really touched on these two things - you've overlooked the most fundamental questions: Q1 - Why stabilise your bow? Q2 - How does stabilising work?
Not all Riser use the 5/16-24 Thred. All of the OK Riseres, build in Germany uses M8/1 Thred. Its is Posible to screw in a 5/16 Stabalizer in, !!!but!!! Never get it out.
A beginner in South Africa here. Your videos have helped enjoy my shooting more and more as I learn basic skills. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Is there a maximum weight that stablizer can handle? I have a KAP winstorm stablizer and I wanted to add around 4oz on the short rods, but i was told that would be very heavy and it may break it. Is there any way to know if it can handle that weight or not?
Great video, Jake. I recently got my first long rod, and wish I’d have seen this first, rather than the more advanced videos you’d done previously, selecting a beginner stabiliser seemed like some magic formula! I will say that there’s an obvious gap in price, my long rod was £47, and every rod below that price acted more like a tuning fork! They vibrated so much for so long after the shot that shooting was not a nice experience. Thanks for your hard work producing these videos.
But Jake you forgot about the classic doinker 421 style weights... which are 1/4 inch threads and have that AAE profile, or rather the AAE weights have the doinker shape😂
Basically only a couple of American stabs brands use 5/16 for the weights side (Doinker, Ram rods?): most other brands, even high-end products, use 1/4 for recurves (Wiawis, Fivics, Shibuya, Gillo, Shrewd)...
Hello Coach Jake, i have a 36lbs '68inch bigrock 790 limbs and i want to increase its poundage to 40lbs without buying new one by adjusting the tiller height mind showing us/me how?
I appreciate your videos. I have a ton of questions about recurve shooting and a hell of a time finding the answers. You literally answered three of them in this video. You rock, keep posting!
Thanks for the clear description. What I’m actually keen to learn is the best technique to actually setting up and tightening the whole setup. I’ve just bought my first and struggle to get the v bar perfectly perpendicular to the riser. Do you build the stabiliser first or just add the v bar to the riser first, for example.
When you mention 90% of Archers use a 30”, does this commonly mean they have a 26” rod with a 4” extension? When going with a fixed vbar mount I see there are 40 and 45 degree which do you prefer? Lastly do certain brands of stabilizers utilize a certain thread pitch- might there be a use on your app for a table/chart for reference. I am shopping used equipment on eBay and many sellers aren’t that informative when asking these questions. I did see that there are adapters to make any situation work but I see a lot of sets for sale minus the vbar mount and it would be cool to know which ones are compatible vs. all the time spent shopping for adapters.
That shirt is the most awesome piece of merch I've seen from any youtube channel that I follow, I want one. In the old days most bow risers had 5/16 threads but my Hoyt had 1/4" insert. Almost all weights were 1/4" whether Hoyt or not. I used a generic stabilizer with 5/16 male threads and an adapter to 1/4" to go into my riser. For our students we used to buy 1/2" diameter aluminum tube at the hardware store and epoxy threaded rod in it. We usually made 24" to 30" lengths but the tube came in 6' length so one time we built a 6' stabilizer for a gag. It was too long to use. This was back when v-bars were first invented, we made our own brackets out of 1/4"x1" aluminum bar from the hardware store. We made dampeners with washers, short pieces of threaded rod and rubber washers from the plumbing area of the hardware store.
I'd always been curious about stabilisers, and last week a guy at my club let me borrow his 9" short rod. My bow instantly felt more comfortable. I bought some 5/16 threaded rod, and inserts. Designed myself a short rod, which I 3d printed, and cast myself a resin weight for the end. It's damn near perfect for what I need, and feels great for me
I am sorry Jake, but you have completely missed the point of what the stabiliser does. Due to Newton's second law of motion (every action has an opposite action), the fact that the arrow is launched from behind the riser and the riser is not symmetrical there is a tendency for the riser to twist in the hand: to torque during the shot. The stabiliser increases the moment of inertia and so reduces the bow twisting in the hand. To show the effect, rapidly twist the riser (looking down) left then right. Add the stabiliser and feel how much more difficult it is to twist the bow.
Unnecessarily long comment.... For short, Jake clearly explains the working principle of stabilization around 6:40 with the tightrope walker example... "To stabilize you". There's no need to go that deep into physics when you naturally understand the notions with a simple example.
Beiter offers an 1/4-5/16 Adapter for their V-Box-System (the V-Box is 5/16). For "bulky" vs thin weights I want to point out, that the further out the weight is from the dampener, the higher the leverage the weight has on the dampener which means that you can have a stronger dampening with the same weight or same dampening with less weight. You can increase leverage of weight on the dampener by adding spacers, e.g. plastic ones) between the dampener and the weight. Hope it is clear what I mean.
Could you share any insight on using an angled QD and how pointing the long rod down affects the feedback, balance, and stability of the bow?
And if you want to reduce the stack size even more, you can always use tungsten weights (though they're generally super expensive) :)
RamRods does indeed have the adapters/reducers.
- "Look a bit cooler".
Me: 🛒
Super helpful 👍
Thanks!
Thanks for the super thanks!
I just ordered a Decut Crown stabilizer set. I understand that the 30" bar is fine for my 28-ish" draw, but will it also be suitable for my son who has a 24"/25" draw?
He will grow into it that way.
@@JakeKaminskiArchery That's what I was hoping, 30" for both my son and me.. I found another source that has options for both the sidebars (10", 12", 14") and the extension (3", 4", 5"). From your videos, I assume sidebars of 12" will be good for both of us, but what about extension length, 4" or 5", or does it matter that much?
I've never used a stabiliser: nor has anyone explained why I would need to, or how stabilisers work. I can't help feeling that, since - at four-and-a-half minutes into this video, you haven't really touched on these two things - you've overlooked the most fundamental questions:
Q1 - Why stabilise your bow?
Q2 - How does stabilising work?
He has plenty of other videos on that. Just search stabiliser
you are a very good person from inside
Not all Riser use the 5/16-24 Thred. All of the OK Riseres, build in Germany uses M8/1 Thred. Its is Posible to screw in a 5/16 Stabalizer in, !!!but!!! Never get it out.
A beginner in South Africa here. Your videos have helped enjoy my shooting more and more as I learn basic skills. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
No way! I am also a beginner from South Africa. Such a small world. I started training a month ago and am finally shooting from 50m.
Is there a maximum weight that stablizer can handle?
I have a KAP winstorm stablizer and I wanted to add around 4oz on the short rods, but i was told that would be very heavy and it may break it.
Is there any way to know if it can handle that weight or not?
Great video, Jake. I recently got my first long rod, and wish I’d have seen this first, rather than the more advanced videos you’d done previously, selecting a beginner stabiliser seemed like some magic formula!
I will say that there’s an obvious gap in price, my long rod was £47, and every rod below that price acted more like a tuning fork! They vibrated so much for so long after the shot that shooting was not a nice experience. Thanks for your hard work producing these videos.
I love my bow I don't have the best stabilizer setup but it works for me. Thanks for the infro I'm now shoot better after watching this video
Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you!!
But Jake you forgot about the classic doinker 421 style weights... which are 1/4 inch threads and have that AAE profile, or rather the AAE weights have the doinker shape😂
Thank you for your efforts and the information. It is valuable to many
My stabilizer basics tip for archery: have one
Lolololololol
Extension yes or not? Helpful only for moving the center of gravity or also improving system vibration reduction?
Basically only a couple of American stabs brands use 5/16 for the weights side (Doinker, Ram rods?): most other brands, even high-end products, use 1/4 for recurves (Wiawis, Fivics, Shibuya, Gillo, Shrewd)...
RevX use 5/16
Jake out of interest what angle down and out do you run on your adjustable v-bar for the side rods?
great info regarding the thread sizes... that part gets overlooked a lot
I want to try wav pros so bad!!!
Looking at using a stabilizer. This is great help! Thanks
Am looking at getting my first long rod and this was really helpful stuff. cheers!
Hello Coach Jake, i have a 36lbs '68inch bigrock 790 limbs and i want to increase its poundage to 40lbs without buying new one by adjusting the tiller height mind showing us/me how?
I appreciate your videos. I have a ton of questions about recurve shooting and a hell of a time finding the answers. You literally answered three of them in this video. You rock, keep posting!
Thank you,im following your videos
Thanks for the clear description. What I’m actually keen to learn is the best technique to actually setting up and tightening the whole setup. I’ve just bought my first and struggle to get the v bar perfectly perpendicular to the riser. Do you build the stabiliser first or just add the v bar to the riser first, for example.
How to Install a V-Bar Bracket and Extension on a Recurve Bow
ua-cam.com/video/uoWmTxNV4eM/v-deo.html
Hi Jake! Thank you so much for another great video!
What length extension would you recommend?
Where can I buy the basic bow with wooden riser and Samick limbs, you have used in this video?
Thank you for this awesome helpful video
Whatever camera you're using has fantastic autofocus in video mode
Fantastic Video - really useful as I set out to buy my first stabilisers
When you mention 90% of Archers use a 30”, does this commonly mean they have a 26” rod with a 4” extension? When going with a fixed vbar mount I see there are 40 and 45 degree which do you prefer? Lastly do certain brands of stabilizers utilize a certain thread pitch- might there be a use on your app for a table/chart for reference. I am shopping used equipment on eBay and many sellers aren’t that informative when asking these questions. I did see that there are adapters to make any situation work but I see a lot of sets for sale minus the vbar mount and it would be cool to know which ones are compatible vs. all the time spent shopping for adapters.
Un saludo desde Medellin, Colombia. En verdad un trabajo excelente!!!
Great video Jake….have to ask though, what brand is your sight and is that an extended sight rod? Thanks!
Came in looking for a way to look cooler when talking to my buddies at the range. All my questions were answered.
That shirt is the most awesome piece of merch I've seen from any youtube channel that I follow, I want one.
In the old days most bow risers had 5/16 threads but my Hoyt had 1/4" insert. Almost all weights were 1/4" whether Hoyt or not. I used a generic stabilizer with 5/16 male threads and an adapter to 1/4" to go into my riser. For our students we used to buy 1/2" diameter aluminum tube at the hardware store and epoxy threaded rod in it. We usually made 24" to 30" lengths but the tube came in 6' length so one time we built a 6' stabilizer for a gag. It was too long to use. This was back when v-bars were first invented, we made our own brackets out of 1/4"x1" aluminum bar from the hardware store. We made dampeners with washers, short pieces of threaded rod and rubber washers from the plumbing area of the hardware store.
You can get one of these shirts yourself at www.teespring.com/stores/jakekaminski
Thanks top info and great video once again
that handle looks printed
Love that new shirt!
Thank you… that helps a lot
I'd always been curious about stabilisers, and last week a guy at my club let me borrow his 9" short rod. My bow instantly felt more comfortable.
I bought some 5/16 threaded rod, and inserts. Designed myself a short rod, which I 3d printed, and cast myself a resin weight for the end. It's damn near perfect for what I need, and feels great for me
3:23 to avoid all the advertising and jargon
I am sorry Jake, but you have completely missed the point of what the stabiliser does. Due to Newton's second law of motion (every action has an opposite action), the fact that the arrow is launched from behind the riser and the riser is not symmetrical there is a tendency for the riser to twist in the hand: to torque during the shot. The stabiliser increases the moment of inertia and so reduces the bow twisting in the hand. To show the effect, rapidly twist the riser (looking down) left then right. Add the stabiliser and feel how much more difficult it is to twist the bow.
That’s what I was insinuating with the whole rotational inertial resistance deal. Same
Same.
Unnecessarily long comment.... For short, Jake clearly explains the working principle of stabilization around 6:40 with the tightrope walker example... "To stabilize you". There's no need to go that deep into physics when you naturally understand the notions with a simple example.
@@JakeKaminskiArchery Jake, can you say what damper you use with the old AAE, or someone can name theme???