Thanks for sharing this video. I think the glued in windows are better than the gasket ones due to leak issues with the screwed in ones with gaskets. Cheers!
Hi Jeff, Great video and you make it look easy. I like the idea of cutting the opening from the inside rather than the outside. Will this technique work with all brands of windows? What size and brand of air saw blades have you found to work the best?
Hello Joe, this technique of cutting from the inside should work on most vehicles if it has a specific area outlined where the window is meant to be, as in the case of this sprinter. Depending on what air saw you are using, any of the recommended metal cutting blades should work fine that are meant for thin sheet metal. Usually they will have fine teeth, I think 14 per inch...
I would recommend test fitting the window and making a template of it first before making any cuts, as some aftermarket ones are not the same size as oem
sorry for the delayed reply, i used a windshield urethane adhesive. you can buy any brand of window urethane as long as all of the applicants are meant to be used together
I don't understand, how come the urethane does not get squeezed out from the side (the vertical side closer to the front of the van) when you press the window and get onto the visible side of the van. It's a very narrow strip that you put the urethane on, and when you press the window it should get flattened and spread to the sides, right? What am I missing?
Sorry for the delay in replying. You are correct about the possibility of glue squishing out. If you cut the tip of the spout correctly, the urethane will come out in a consistent height and width so that you dont use to much or to little so you dont have to worry about it squishing out
Nice job. Have you tried the Sika Powercure system yet? We switched to it about two years ago and it's so nice to work with. It's 2 components so it cures really fast, within 90 minutes the glue is cured all the way trough. It's a rather expensive system in the beginning and it takes some practice but once you get the hang of it you'll never want to return to the regular Sika glue. I use it at work to put in large truck windshields, smaller windows and roof hatches and even some plastic parts. Maybe contact a Sika representative to give it a try. If you want some tips from a regular user, don't hesitate to contact me.
@Reinoud Delporte Hey thanks for that info! i will check it out and see if it is something that we can switch over to. Glad to learn from industry experts...
Hello, on some other videos I see that they put the rubber only on the internal side of the metal sheet and it prevents free space between the glass and the metal, is it good to do like you if I have a very large double rubber to cover the two metal sheet ? Because I will have at least 4 mm between the 2 gap
You dont want to big of a gap between the metal and the glass. The biggest factor would be the height and thickness of the adhesive bead when you apply it. If you have a 4mm gap make sure that when you apply the urethane, it is taller then 4mm so that the glass will adhere to the metal
Big difference between tools USED vs tools NEEDED. You do not NEED a pneumatic saw (electric works fine), you don't need a die grinder (a Dremel or similar will work, or even a hand file), and a manual caulk gun is plenty good enough.
Most professional window installation on UA-cam. Everyone else that has posted their "shade tree" install needs to see this.
Thank you!
Thanks tuto, Jeffrey, this vidéo help me . From France
best window install instruction i have seen to date, and surprisingly the first one ive seen to include the sealant application!, thankyou!
Glad i could help!
Jeff, that is a great video. Shows exactly what to do and no wasted time talking about other stuff. Thanks
Glenn, Thanks for the feedback!
Thanks for sharing this video. I think the glued in windows are better than the gasket ones due to leak issues with the screwed in ones with gaskets. Cheers!
You are very welcome, and i fully agree with you!
Good Job and video. I suggest placing some 1 or 2mm spacer at the bottom edge of the window, to ensure an even gap all around.
Thank you @timtaubner yes, spacers are definitely helpful especially when mounting large vertical peices of glass.
Could you please explain what you mean by this? Why are spacers needed at the "bottom" ?
Absolutely beautiful 🤩
Quality job there!
This video is excellent. Thanks
Very good detailed information. Thanks
Hey thanks Diego, glad you enjoyed it. Please subscribe to my channel for more videos like this.
no problem! glad to help
Hi Jeff, Great video and you make it look easy. I like the idea of cutting the opening from the inside rather than the outside. Will this technique work with all brands of windows? What size and brand of air saw blades have you found to work the best?
Hello Joe, this technique of cutting from the inside should work on most vehicles if it has a specific area outlined where the window is meant to be, as in the case of this sprinter.
Depending on what air saw you are using, any of the recommended metal cutting blades should work fine that are meant for thin sheet metal. Usually they will have fine teeth, I think 14 per inch...
I would recommend test fitting the window and making a template of it first before making any cuts, as some aftermarket ones are not the same size as oem
@@jeffreyruck552 Thanks for taking the time to reply!
No problem. Glad i could help!
You made that look too easy!
Thanks Jeff!
great tutorial! The only question I have is what materials did you use for the adhesion of the window? I couldn’t quite make out what you said.
sorry for the delayed reply, i used a windshield urethane adhesive. you can buy any brand of window urethane as long as all of the applicants are meant to be used together
Thank you! Great video.
I don't understand, how come the urethane does not get squeezed out from the side (the vertical side closer to the front of the van) when you press the window and get onto the visible side of the van. It's a very narrow strip that you put the urethane on, and when you press the window it should get flattened and spread to the sides, right? What am I missing?
Sorry for the delay in replying. You are correct about the possibility of glue squishing out. If you cut the tip of the spout correctly, the urethane will come out in a consistent height and width so that you dont use to much or to little so you dont have to worry about it squishing out
Nice job. Have you tried the Sika Powercure system yet? We switched to it about two years ago and it's so nice to work with. It's 2 components so it cures really fast, within 90 minutes the glue is cured all the way trough. It's a rather expensive system in the beginning and it takes some practice but once you get the hang of it you'll never want to return to the regular Sika glue. I use it at work to put in large truck windshields, smaller windows and roof hatches and even some plastic parts. Maybe contact a Sika representative to give it a try. If you want some tips from a regular user, don't hesitate to contact me.
@Reinoud Delporte Hey thanks for that info! i will check it out and see if it is something that we can switch over to. Glad to learn from industry experts...
What size window trim lock did you use?
If I remember correctly, it's 3/4" tall and 1/4" wide
Hi Jeff, great video!
Where can I find the window glue and the rest of the stuff you are using for the window?
Thanks!
You can get all the supplies you need from any Auto body Supply store, or crlaurence.com
Jeffrey Ruck Thanks
This dude sounds more like Adam driver than Adam driver does
Hello, on some other videos I see that they put the rubber only on the internal side of the metal sheet and it prevents free space between the glass and the metal, is it good to do like you if I have a very large double rubber to cover the two metal sheet ? Because I will have at least 4 mm between the 2 gap
You dont want to big of a gap between the metal and the glass. The biggest factor would be the height and thickness of the adhesive bead when you apply it. If you have a 4mm gap make sure that when you apply the urethane, it is taller then 4mm so that the glass will adhere to the metal
Great vid bud, very informative.
Thank you, Peter Thegmtb
Great tutorial. Thank you.
Your welcome!
Can you please tell me the type and model of air tool? Thanks
Snap on PTS1000 Dual chuck air saw
Where i can get the glass from?
Email brendan.ruck@advantageoutfitters.com
where do you order windows fot these van?
Call 8669254844 or email brendan.ruck@advantageoutfitters.com
Good job 👍👍👍
Thank you
Super
Thanks, Mesim Mesimzade!
Big difference between tools USED vs tools NEEDED. You do not NEED a pneumatic saw (electric works fine), you don't need a die grinder (a Dremel or similar will work, or even a hand file), and a manual caulk gun is plenty good enough.