Great information here! I learned the hard way not to trust pre primed plastic bumpers; your video is one of the best, simplest approaches I've seen that can be adapted to a DIYer like me. Thanks!!!
Thank you for this video. I knew there was something I should do to make it easier and what I would have missed would be the adhesion promoter. Nice work and thank you. Help me make my kids car look better as a DIY guy
You mentioned waiting 10 minutes before spraying the sealer, but what about delay between sealer and base coat, plus the time between base coat and clear coat? And if I end up needing to sand the sealer coat because I'll be using a spraycan primer, how long should I wait before and after sanding the sealer step? Thanks for all your guidance!
I’ve read that you shouldn’t put adhesion promoter over primer, it’s for raw plastic. So if I have one of these pre prime bumpers that says to wet sand with 1000 grit, how do I approach it ?
It will not hurt it, the primer they use is trash in most cases. You can use adhesion promoter over the pre primed bumpers. If it were a good primer I know I put on then I would say no. Best to adhesion promote it and put on your own 2k sealer. IMO
I have a question this is now my second car I’ve had to have panels replaced and painted from an accident. I had them both repaired at caliber collision, not sure if your familiar with them but they get there panels and bumpers from a place called Keystone. Both times I’ve had to have them repainted because of the paint just peeling off. They always want to blame it on keystone. Don’t you think they would know how to prep those parts properly like you do or do you think they’re just taking short cuts. They’re supposed to be professionals and do it right the first time I would think.
Definitely not a keystone problem. Peeling paint 99% of the time is improper prep or didn't clean well enough prior to paint/sealer. Or not following the TDS sheets and letting their sealer set to long before they put on their basecoat on.
Just assume all pre primed stuff is gonna need a good quality sealer and or primer. Nothing against the people that did it, but I want to know my paint is not coming off so I always sand and scuff pre primed stuff and at least re seal it.
I ordered a spoiler for my car that comes in a pre-primed black color similar to this I was wondering if it’s okay if I leave it unpainted like that? Only reason I ask is because the matte finish it comes in matches the car’s factory side skirts and diffuser
No, there is no UV protection in the primer. It will fade out and turn a white chalkish color if you leave unpainted. If you want it flat black and cheap, at the bare minimum I would get rust oleum flat black in a can to keep that from happening
I sprayed the adhesive promoter and then the primer filler. After drying, I noticed it left like a rash like feeling. Do I have to start from scratch again?
If it left a rash feeling, that is dry spray. You didn't wet out your primer enough laying it out, if you got enough on you can sand it with 500/ 600 grit and then scothbrite it until its smooth and then proceed on.
I'm about to get a pre primed 350z bumper, I guess I'll take your word for it. Ehat confuses me is what to buy at lowes to make a primer a sealer and im not familiar with mixing. And I only have one paint gun so when I spray sealer ill have to clean it out to paint it black and then clean it again to do clear coat. I was hoping I'd be able to just spray it.
You need to find a local paint supply store. If you cant go to a local body shop or ask a buddy in the field where they get there supplies. Most of the time the guys in those stores are more than happy to help a new guy out. Lowes in my area does not have anything I would want to put on my bicycle, and definitely not my vehicle.
My only problem I face is laying primer/sealer down. Everytime I do, I have to sand it down with 600 to get it smooth before I paint. If I paint right after primer without sanding, it comes out super rough! Other than that thank you for the great tips!
You either need to thin your primer/sealer with the appropriate reducer, and or increase your gun psi. Some of the thicker brands need 40-50 psi to lay out smooth
Settings on gun might not be right? I always have Paint and Air on one wide open setting. But defiantly need a 50 litre plus compressor. Try doing in sections instead of laying it in one go?
Do they sell a sealer in a spray can? I’m doing rain guards, and a spoiler kit. I’m in the scuffing stage. I was going to put adhesion promoter, then use a 2K primer I have in a spray can? Is that sufficient, or do I need some kind of sealer?
Is this problem just on newer ones? I have hundreds of not more out Their many years old and their all holding up fine. Didn’t even peel years later after they wrecked it again. But I also don’t want to risk doing it the old way if this is happening now more then before
I got a bumper for my ford focus mk3 front bumper and it was white so I had to change the colour to 2k primer and base coat but the bumper was painted with 2 pack paint and its started to flake underneath of the bumper with the 2k high build primer
@@bpbrestorations2093 CORY MY FRIEND GOT A CHEAP AFTER MARKET FRONT BUMPER OFF EBAY AND THERE A STICKER ON SAYS PRIMER I PUT SOME UPOL PLASTIC PRIMER CORY AND ITS BLISTERS ALL OVER
@@bpbrestorations2093 I used to think those paint shops were lying when they told me a gallon is 800 bucks. They were telling the truth!!! I’ve painted a lot of houses crazy how much cheaper house paint is, even exterior house paint 50 bucks a gallon vs 600-800$
Is thinning out the primer by 10% to make it a sealer crucial to your claim on the pre-primed bumpers? If so, what are you mixing it with to thin it out? It looks like there were instructions on the UPOL primer can but I currently don't have all the tools for proper measurements. Again, if this is a step you don't recommend skipping to back your claim, then I'll go ahead and do more research to find out exactly what I need to thin it out ...or can i just use primer for this whole step? 😅
@bizarrehazar you can use primer for the whole thing if done correctly, the benefit of thinning it and using as a sealer with urethane reducer up to 20% on Upol 2253 is that it simply lays flatter and smoother no dusting or orange peel in the primer/sealer.
Spray max 2k is the only kind of primer/sealer I would use out of a spray bomb, it has a plunger on the bottom to bust open an activator inside. Anything sealer or primer that is not 2 part with an activator stay away from it will never last.
Did you ever paint your bumper and use the Spraymax 2K he mentions? I only ask because I'm deciding on whether or not to do mine and have fretted over what combination of canned spray paints to use. I wanted to use the dupli-color bumper paint and then seal it with a 2K matte version of the Spraymax clear, BUT, I'm worried that if I lay down a urethane sealer like the 2K, over an acrylic like the dupli-color, it will eventually peel because they may not be chemically compatible.
BPB Restorations, have you ever had any come backs or problems when applying adhesion promotor to new primed bumpers? I've seen some people say that it could cause adhesion problems, but a few buddies that I know that own bodyshops say they apply it on all plastic bumpers.
Question… is it worth the extra time and cost to go around the edges into the backside a little when preping to ensure no peeling starts on the back side of the substrate that could turn a corner? Sorry I have terrible OCD and need to know. Thx
Took my bumper to a shop and the paint is scratching off already and you can peel it. They said it was my fault and that they dont prime bumpers. SHops are supposed to prime bumpers right? lol
@@bpbrestorations2093 Thank you for the quick reply man. They kicked me out of their shop last time so I'm trying to get as much info as I can. Do you happen to know what a part is called. When I got my new bumper there were plastic pieces in the middle that I assume are only there so it doesn't get smashed during shipping. The shop says they dont remove those either.
You will have to read the TDS for the product you are using for certain, but typically once it "flashes" off around the 30minute - 1 hour range you can proceed with a tack cloth and paint.
Great video. This instructions is to make sure that paint doesn’t peel off. Do I need to do another spray paint of the bumper to make sure that the primed paint get sealed? Or is there no need to do a 3rd and final coating? Thank you.
If you are using your primer as a sealer and it layed out well enough to base coat then it will be fine to sand with 600 grit and go right into paint. I prefer to always spray a sealer before paint. When you just use sand paper over your primer and then paint you only get a mechanical latch/bond, with a sealer right before your base coat sprayed within the proper time windows will give you a mechanical and chemical latch/bond.
Does anyone know if this 2k primer sealer is waterproof the way that epoxy sealers are? In other words can it be left outside in the rain for awhile before topcoat?
nice video man.. just a quick question i need to apply body filler ,do i need to throw some adhesion promoter before the body filler? or just sand the pre.primed new bumper
@@bpbrestorations2093 Thanks a lot for your reply . I just made a modification to the bumper to fill some gaps with extra plastic and i need to fill the surface of those areas with body filler for a smooth clean finish before painting . bumper is new and unpainted
Every paint line is different, try to find the TDS sheets for your material online. Most seem to be about 45 min to 1 hour for primer to dry enough for basecoat. Basecoat generally take 20 to 30 minutes to flash off enough for clear coat or a second coat of base.
Thanks for this! Great advice! I'm about to do a bumper myself. The last time I did a bumper, the clear coat looked "orange peely" like yours and even had a small run. I discovered though that it continued to "flow out" seemingly for days after and looked 100% better without having to sand. Have you had the same experience?
What is your opinion of the quality of the plastic on aftermarket bumper covers versus OEM bumper covers? I have heard rumors of aftermarket covers being brittle and cracking easy versus OEM thank you.
@@bpbrestorations2093 okay so you would consider a used OEM bumper cover over a brand new aftermarket that's what I was sort of hoping thank you kindly!!!
I have basically that same pre primed bumper. Mine is for a Dodge Dart but looks almost identical. How much should I expect to pay to have someone prime & paint it exactly like you did this one?
@@bpbrestorations2093and is it safe to say that it's better to paint it BEFORE I install it on the car? Or since the paint would need to be blended into the fenders, etc. would it be fine to have it installed first?
@@bpbrestorations2093 This was bumper I ordered from eBay brand new “pre primed” but it did have 1.5” crack And that’s why I was asking if I need to prime whole think o just that one spot?
This might be a dumb question, but you mention at the beginning of the video that that bumper is pre-primed. It looks just like the bumper cover which came with my Nissan pickup truck when it was new 20 years ago. Does that mean that the bumper cover it came with was just pre-primed, or did Nissan also paint it with a color (AG64) that looks exactly like the pre-prime? I'm asking this because I'm thinking of getting a new pre-primed bumper cover, because mine is faded to oblivion, so I'm wondering if I can just put it on and armor-all it or am I going to need to paint it?
@@bpbrestorations2093 I heard it wasn't good to use wax and grease remover on the plastic. Have you heard this. I have a new front and rear bumper I'm going to paint and want to do it the right way.
@@bpbrestorations2093 see i`ve got a old Ford Focus rear bumper to respray. I`ve rubbed it down(cleaned of course) but still undecided the best way to spray it? I was just going to go adhesive Promoter, plastic primer hi build then base with clear? But will the way you described better? I`ve moved away from mechanics to take up spraying due to injury. Too old to be rolling under cars lol
@@bpbrestorations2093 yeah my clsss is from 8-12 and everyday it’s around 55 it reaches 60 degrees at like 12 something but that’s the time class is over I have no other choice ima have to spray in 55 degrees in the booth
This is EXACTLY what I was looking for in every detail possible. You don't see much helpful information like this without the guy skipping ten things that leaves us back to point A. But, this video was on point. Please subscribe to this channel and help this guy out the way he's help us out.----from Greedy Grove, Texas 75217.
@@bpbrestorations2093 I've just bought a aftermarket bumper so can you please tell what's best way to sand it down my previous bumper paint pealed off when I washed my car thanks
@@bpbrestorations2093 Kind of through me off when I was wiping it off. It was like "Why is my rag so black?". Quick question, I haven't applied the sealer yet but should I apply it as a primer instead, since the original is gone?
Its a nice video but you left out some important parts.I wanted to see the spraying at regular speed start to finish. Also how you buffed sanded and polished out the orange peel would have been really nice to see seeing as how that produces the finished product.What do you buff with and what compound do you use ? Is spraying too wet or to slow causing the orange peel ?If you use spray cans woulfd you have those problems?if not what is or do you care because you sand the peel out with the 2000 grit sand paper?
I have other videos covering some of that stuff, I use a foam polishing pad either 3m, or chemical guys on 5 inch buffer or a 3m perfect it pad on a dw849 buffer. We always sand and buff or "denib" and polish right over 2000 grit. You can go higher to 3000 or 5000 but all you are doing is wasting time imo. In order to get the hang of spraying and patterns and speeds to eliminate the orange peel and the need for doing a ton of sanding you need to do a small test panel that you can keep sanding off after it dries until you get the hang of it.
@@bpbrestorations2093 Thank you for providing your knowledge ,experience and time in these videos.They are very helpful for me who has never sprayed plastic.I think I will be using an aerosol 2k primer as a sealer.What do you recommend ?Urethane polyurethane polyester filler or epoxy and what brand?
anywhere i can message you so you can respond quicker? i have 0 knowledge of cars and how to fix em alone lol, but i did have to buy bumper covers pre primed, and a fender as well that i plan on painting myself
@SonomaLow12 thanks for the feedback, you are right, you don't technically need adhesion promoter. W&g is like 90% alcohol and you can use it I have done it for 20 years, just make sure you use the double towel method to wipe until it's 100% dry and leaves no residue. And you absolutely can use purple scotch for scuff even on metallics as long as you seal first. I have done this method for many years. Our paint is not peeling, but we have done dozens of redo from other shops where they are and this is my observation and answer to the problem. If you think you have a better method post the video or get off the bag.
With modern urethane paint, it's very flexible unlike most of the old stuff like enamels and lacquers. I quit using flex additives and dont recommended any additives to the paint
He said if you want to hate on me, I like that too. Tell your enemies. Loved it. Nice job.
Great information here! I learned the hard way not to trust pre primed plastic bumpers; your video is one of the best, simplest approaches I've seen that can be adapted to a DIYer like me. Thanks!!!
Glad i found this video. Was about to paint over my "pre-primed" bumper. Will def hit it with adhesion promoter now
I love watching these type videos! Great job
Thank you for this video. I knew there was something I should do to make it easier and what I would have missed would be the adhesion promoter. Nice work and thank you. Help me make my kids car look better as a DIY guy
Best video out there super simple and not overly complicate it like others thank you
I happy to see all the work that goes into painting a bumper.
I’m thinking about doing this on my Camry. Good insightful video thx a bunch👍
No problem thank you
I thought adhesion promoter was only used on raw plastic ?
@@daneloucks1274 it can be used for alot of stuff
Good advice on spraying clear. I think I understand the ratios now. Im just dumb but ive got this.
Any advice on getting rid of static from a pre primes bumper?
You mentioned waiting 10 minutes before spraying the sealer, but what about delay between sealer and base coat, plus the time between base coat and clear coat? And if I end up needing to sand the sealer coat because I'll be using a spraycan primer, how long should I wait before and after sanding the sealer step? Thanks for all your guidance!
I’ve read that you shouldn’t put adhesion promoter over primer, it’s for raw plastic. So if I have one of these pre prime bumpers that says to wet sand with 1000 grit, how do I approach it ?
It will not hurt it, the primer they use is trash in most cases. You can use adhesion promoter over the pre primed bumpers. If it were a good primer I know I put on then I would say no. Best to adhesion promote it and put on your own 2k sealer. IMO
I have a question this is now my second car I’ve had to have panels replaced and painted from an accident. I had them both repaired at caliber collision, not sure if your familiar with them but they get there panels and bumpers from a place called Keystone. Both times I’ve had to have them repainted because of the paint just peeling off. They always want to blame it on keystone. Don’t you think they would know how to prep those parts properly like you do or do you think they’re just taking short cuts. They’re supposed to be professionals and do it right the first time I would think.
Definitely not a keystone problem. Peeling paint 99% of the time is improper prep or didn't clean well enough prior to paint/sealer. Or not following the TDS sheets and letting their sealer set to long before they put on their basecoat on.
Thanks a lot. One question is how to know the preprimed bumper has a high quality primer ?
Just assume all pre primed stuff is gonna need a good quality sealer and or primer. Nothing against the people that did it, but I want to know my paint is not coming off so I always sand and scuff pre primed stuff and at least re seal it.
I ordered a spoiler for my car that comes in a pre-primed black color similar to this I was wondering if it’s okay if I leave it unpainted like that? Only reason I ask is because the matte finish it comes in matches the car’s factory side skirts and diffuser
No, there is no UV protection in the primer. It will fade out and turn a white chalkish color if you leave unpainted. If you want it flat black and cheap, at the bare minimum I would get rust oleum flat black in a can to keep that from happening
@@bpbrestorations2093 oh okay gotcha. Will I need to go over the rust oleum flat black color with a clear coat as well ?
@@michaelanthony7365 no
@@bpbrestorations2093 ok cool. appreciate the feedback!
I sprayed the adhesive promoter and then the primer filler. After drying, I noticed it left like a rash like feeling. Do I have to start from scratch again?
If it left a rash feeling, that is dry spray. You didn't wet out your primer enough laying it out, if you got enough on you can sand it with 500/ 600 grit and then scothbrite it until its smooth and then proceed on.
What do I do if I don't have those fancy spray guns you have? I just have cans of spray
You can still follow the steps fpr.the most part
how many cans of adhesion promoter do you need?
I see someone asked the same question and you replied "One can will do multiple." Thank you very much for this video!
You did a nice job..... Great info.
Thanks
I'm about to get a pre primed 350z bumper, I guess I'll take your word for it. Ehat confuses me is what to buy at lowes to make a primer a sealer and im not familiar with mixing. And I only have one paint gun so when I spray sealer ill have to clean it out to paint it black and then clean it again to do clear coat. I was hoping I'd be able to just spray it.
You need to find a local paint supply store. If you cant go to a local body shop or ask a buddy in the field where they get there supplies. Most of the time the guys in those stores are more than happy to help a new guy out. Lowes in my area does not have anything I would want to put on my bicycle, and definitely not my vehicle.
My only problem I face is laying primer/sealer down. Everytime I do, I have to sand it down with 600 to get it smooth before I paint. If I paint right after primer without sanding, it comes out super rough! Other than that thank you for the great tips!
You either need to thin your primer/sealer with the appropriate reducer, and or increase your gun psi. Some of the thicker brands need 40-50 psi to lay out smooth
@@bpbrestorations2093 wooow didn’t think of that thank you!
Settings on gun might not be right? I always have Paint and Air on one wide open setting. But defiantly need a 50 litre plus compressor. Try doing in sections instead of laying it in one go?
probably need more reducer. it’s probably spraying too thick so it goes on kinda lumpy.
Do they sell a sealer in a spray can? I’m doing rain guards, and a spoiler kit. I’m in the scuffing stage. I was going to put adhesion promoter, then use a 2K primer I have in a spray can? Is that sufficient, or do I need some kind of sealer?
2k primer will work if it's smooth enough, out of a can it should be fine
@@bpbrestorations2093 Thanks👍
Is this problem just on newer ones? I have hundreds of not more out Their many years old and their all holding up fine. Didn’t even peel years later after they wrecked it again.
But I also don’t want to risk doing it the old way if this is happening now more then before
Yes new ones
After this video I’m going to give painting my bumper and hold an attempt😂
You can do it
What do ypu suggest for guys who haven't got spray guns to apply that sealant ???
A local paint supply store can mix it up in aerosol cans for you
Do you sand and buff with the bumper on or off the car, good video.
If you don't have someone or something to hold your item, bumper, fender, etc. Then you definitely want to have it mounted, because it will go flying!
Does one can of that adhesion promoter do one bumper? How many cans would you get for 2 bumpers? Thanks
One can will do multiple
Thanks!
No prob
How do you fix a bumper that’s chipping
How long have to wait after the clear coat, to do polishing.
@gbitpal minimum 24 hours but I would check the TDS sheet for the info on the exact materials you are using. Google the TDS if you have to.
Thanks for sharing that information great finish
I got a bumper for my ford focus mk3 front bumper and it was white so I had to change the colour to 2k primer and base coat but the bumper was painted with 2 pack paint and its started to flake underneath of the bumper with the 2k high build primer
Probably gonna have to start over
@@bpbrestorations2093 CORY MY FRIEND GOT A CHEAP AFTER MARKET FRONT BUMPER OFF EBAY AND THERE A STICKER ON SAYS PRIMER I PUT SOME UPOL PLASTIC PRIMER CORY AND ITS BLISTERS ALL OVER
Thank you!! Hopefully this 50 dollar color code matched aerosol can of paint and separate can of clear coat are enough
It will be close on the clear usually 2 aerosol cans of clear are needed for a bumper
@@bpbrestorations2093 I used to think those paint shops were lying when they told me a gallon is 800 bucks. They were telling the truth!!! I’ve painted a lot of houses crazy how much cheaper house paint is, even exterior house paint 50 bucks a gallon vs 600-800$
Is the bulldog flexible bumper paint stripper ok to use on polyurethane?
I am not familiar with that product. Sorry
Is thinning out the primer by 10% to make it a sealer crucial to your claim on the pre-primed bumpers? If so, what are you mixing it with to thin it out? It looks like there were instructions on the UPOL primer can but I currently don't have all the tools for proper measurements. Again, if this is a step you don't recommend skipping to back your claim, then I'll go ahead and do more research to find out exactly what I need to thin it out ...or can i just use primer for this whole step? 😅
@bizarrehazar you can use primer for the whole thing if done correctly, the benefit of thinning it and using as a sealer with urethane reducer up to 20% on Upol 2253 is that it simply lays flatter and smoother no dusting or orange peel in the primer/sealer.
@@bpbrestorations2093 thank you! 🙏
Nice job
Thanks for the information, it's appreciated. What sealer could you use if you're rattle canning it in the back yard?
Spray max 2k is the only kind of primer/sealer I would use out of a spray bomb, it has a plunger on the bottom to bust open an activator inside. Anything sealer or primer that is not 2 part with an activator stay away from it will never last.
@@bpbrestorations2093 thank you
Did you ever paint your bumper and use the Spraymax 2K he mentions? I only ask because I'm deciding on whether or not to do mine and have fretted over what combination of canned spray paints to use. I wanted to use the dupli-color bumper paint and then seal it with a 2K matte version of the Spraymax clear, BUT, I'm worried that if I lay down a urethane sealer like the 2K, over an acrylic like the dupli-color, it will eventually peel because they may not be chemically compatible.
USED BUMPERS OR NEW ONE ARE EASY TO PAINT PRIUS?
Used ones if the paint is good, u can just scuff and shoot. New ones need the extra sealer and material
BPB Restorations, have you ever had any come backs or problems when applying adhesion promotor to new primed bumpers? I've seen some people say that it could cause adhesion problems, but a few buddies that I know that own bodyshops say they apply it on all plastic bumpers.
No I have not, I use it on all of them for years now
Thanks for sharing.
Question… is it worth the extra time and cost to go around the edges into the backside a little when preping to ensure no peeling starts on the back side of the substrate that could turn a corner? Sorry I have terrible OCD and need to know. Thx
Absolutely
Took my bumper to a shop and the paint is scratching off already and you can peel it. They said it was my fault and that they dont prime bumpers. SHops are supposed to prime bumpers right? lol
Yes, they need primed or sealed at the minimum.
@@bpbrestorations2093 Thank you for the quick reply man. They kicked me out of their shop last time so I'm trying to get as much info as I can. Do you happen to know what a part is called. When I got my new bumper there were plastic pieces in the middle that I assume are only there so it doesn't get smashed during shipping. The shop says they dont remove those either.
Is it the same for pre primed fenders.
Yea pretty much
I’m getting ready to spray my bumper tomorrow 😂 1x for anything
How did it go? I want to do the same thing.
@@djcoinlaundry it actually turn out good I was shocked lol
How much paint did you use including the base!
Roughly a quart of clear, quart of base, and quart of primer/sealer.
Sealer is primer can i use a gray primer slealer? That sells in autozone
It needs to be 2 part. As long as it comes with a hardner I'd say no problem but stay away from 1k
Is car parts a good site to get bumpers?
We have used them in a pinch
How long do you wait from the primer and when you put the color on? Thanks
You will have to read the TDS for the product you are using for certain, but typically once it "flashes" off around the 30minute - 1 hour range you can proceed with a tack cloth and paint.
Yes, you definately need to scuff them up good, and clean ALL contaminants off them.
great job. can you list the items you used. i remember you said primer sealer, adhesion promoter. what other items do i need?
Also basecoat and clearcoat. Or a single stage urethane if you prefer
From Michigan here, have a 96 k1500 that needs rocker panels. How busy are you?
I always have a bay open for collision and small stuff, but rockers and bigger jobs I am scheduling out about 9 months currently.
Can you name the products used ? I currently order one and need to paint it silver
Yea
Can you put links in the description for what the products you used are and where to get them
Great video. This instructions is to make sure that paint doesn’t peel off.
Do I need to do another spray paint of the bumper to make sure that the primed paint get sealed? Or is there no need to do a 3rd and final coating?
Thank you.
If you are using your primer as a sealer and it layed out well enough to base coat then it will be fine to sand with 600 grit and go right into paint. I prefer to always spray a sealer before paint. When you just use sand paper over your primer and then paint you only get a mechanical latch/bond, with a sealer right before your base coat sprayed within the proper time windows will give you a mechanical and chemical latch/bond.
Thank you so much.
Great job Young man!!!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. How long should you wait to sand after the final clear coat?
Minimum of 24 some 48 hours
Does anyone know if this 2k primer sealer is waterproof the way that epoxy sealers are? In other words can it be left outside in the rain for awhile before topcoat?
No it's not
nice video man.. just a quick question i need to apply body filler ,do i need to throw some adhesion promoter before the body filler? or just sand the pre.primed new bumper
No chemical between filler and bumper, just make sure you clean it good
@@bpbrestorations2093 Thanks a lot for your reply . I just made a modification to the bumper to fill some gaps with extra plastic and i need to fill the surface of those areas with body filler for a smooth clean finish before painting . bumper is new and unpainted
How much $ should I expect to pay for painting my bumper cover M-Tech II 330ci from shop?
New bumper painted and blending it in its probably near $800 -$1000.
How long between sealer/primer to base coat and time for clear coat?
Every paint line is different, try to find the TDS sheets for your material online. Most seem to be about 45 min to 1 hour for primer to dry enough for basecoat. Basecoat generally take 20 to 30 minutes to flash off enough for clear coat or a second coat of base.
Thank you for this video. The adhesion promoter is applied over the (scuffed up) primer, does it soak through the primer and stick to the plastic?
It creates a very bonded surface. I use AP for all my painting and makes a real difference and lasts.
Nice what tip you use for clear
1.3
Thanks for this! Great advice! I'm about to do a bumper myself.
The last time I did a bumper, the clear coat looked "orange peely" like yours and even had a small run.
I discovered though that it continued to "flow out" seemingly for days after and looked 100% better without having to sand.
Have you had the same experience?
Yes I have
But how many day did u wait to put it on
@@kevinkev1530 24 hours is sufficient for most clears. Check the TDS sheet on whatever brand you are using
What is your opinion of the quality of the plastic on aftermarket bumper covers versus OEM bumper covers?
I have heard rumors of aftermarket covers being brittle and cracking easy versus OEM thank you.
They are definitely not oem quality. Not even close. If I can find an oem bumper used I will use it over a bare plastic aftermarket all day long.
@@bpbrestorations2093 okay so you would consider a used OEM bumper cover over a brand new aftermarket that's what I was sort of hoping thank you kindly!!!
Absolutely yes! And no problem buddy
Great video. Thanks
Do you use clear coat on standard vehicle paint work, or only pearlescent or metallic?
Yes I always use base, clear 2 part system for all repairs pretty much
I have basically that same pre primed bumper. Mine is for a Dodge Dart but looks almost identical. How much should I expect to pay to have someone prime & paint it exactly like you did this one?
Roughly $600
@@bpbrestorations2093and is it safe to say that it's better to paint it BEFORE I install it on the car? Or since the paint would need to be blended into the fenders, etc. would it be fine to have it installed first?
Nice video would this same process apply to painting a plastic boat?
This applies to nearly anything plastic that's new.
@@bpbrestorations2093 if it’s an old plastic boat should I sand with 600 grit instead of using the scuff pad?
600 will work
What tip do you use for clear coat?
1.4
@@bpbrestorations2093 Thanks for the info and the great video! Keep up the good work.
So I have small are I need fix do I need to prime whole bumper or just area i patch ?
If the rest of the bumper has good paint then you only need to spot prime your damage area and a scuff pad for the rest
@@bpbrestorations2093 This was bumper I ordered from eBay brand new “pre primed” but it did have 1.5” crack
And that’s why I was asking if I need to prime whole think o just that one spot?
@@mikimiki195 I would seal the whole thing at least
@@bpbrestorations2093
1. Fix cracked area
2. Spray adhesion promoter
3. Sealer
4. Base coat
5. Clear coat
Are this good steps to take?
do need sealer? or can you just use the bulldog thing and than start painting and than 2k clear coat
Don't have to have it, it will work don't know about longevity
@@bpbrestorations2093 oh okay and sealer is primer? im kinda confused about sealer like what is it.
@nbs_david916 a very thinned out coat of primer basically
This might be a dumb question, but you mention at the beginning of the video that that bumper is pre-primed. It looks just like the bumper cover which came with my Nissan pickup truck when it was new 20 years ago. Does that mean that the bumper cover it came with was just pre-primed, or did Nissan also paint it with a color (AG64) that looks exactly like the pre-prime? I'm asking this because I'm thinking of getting a new pre-primed bumper cover, because mine is faded to oblivion, so I'm wondering if I can just put it on and armor-all it or am I going to need to paint it?
It's definitely just primer, and no. There is no UV protection on that primer. It will fade and turn to crap very quickly without topcoat.
Do you recommend something to clean the bumper before scuffing to remove the molding chemicals.
Wax and grease remover or kar-prep
@@bpbrestorations2093 I heard it wasn't good to use wax and grease remover on the plastic. Have you heard this. I have a new front and rear bumper I'm going to paint and want to do it the right way.
Can i ask why you used Hi build over plastic primer?
It's high build, but with urethane reducer it is a sealer. I put it on because paint don't stick to these bumpers well.
@@bpbrestorations2093 see i`ve got a old Ford Focus rear bumper to respray. I`ve rubbed it down(cleaned of course) but still undecided the best way to spray it? I was just going to go adhesive Promoter, plastic primer hi build then base with clear? But will the way you described better? I`ve moved away from mechanics to take up spraying due to injury. Too old to be rolling under cars lol
is it a problem if a little plastic primer is applied to the primer already on the bumper?
Not as long as you sand it good and don't forget to reprime or at least seal your new filler spot
you dont need to wet sand the primer?
Correct, you can dry sand it also
Ima be painting in 55-60 degrees weather in the morning that’s the time of my class u think I’ll be good ?
60 yea, 55 pushing it. Be sure to use fast activator.
@@bpbrestorations2093 yeah my clsss is from 8-12 and everyday it’s around 55 it reaches 60 degrees at like 12 something but that’s the time class is over I have no other choice ima have to spray in 55 degrees in the booth
@ripkobexnip3719 probably be OK, take ur time
Do you know any good shops in NJ?
No I do not sorry
Can I use filler primer and adhesion promoter?
Yes
Will it work to put a primer on top of the Adhesion Promoter?
Yes
This is EXACTLY what I was looking for in every detail possible. You don't see much helpful information like this without the guy skipping ten things that leaves us back to point A. But, this video was on point. Please subscribe to this channel and help this guy out the way he's help us out.----from Greedy Grove, Texas 75217.
You mean surfacer or a sealer!
What did you use to make it shine like that cheers
Clear coat?
Nice job, but I wish you would show gun and adjustments, also normal speed spraying so I can see technique. At least one of the steps
Subsricbe and go thru the vids. I have covered all these things in my different videos.
What thinner did you use to thin the upol primer
Any 2k urethane reducer, I believe in this video I probably used axalta 7175
Is it ok to use wax and grease remover on these pre primed bumpers?
Yes
Does anyone know how long it normally sticks before it starts to peal?
If prepped right it should never peal
Are yiu supposed to sand it down first
You can just scuff it with a scotch pad.
@@bpbrestorations2093 I've just bought a aftermarket bumper so can you please tell what's best way to sand it down my previous bumper paint pealed off when I washed my car thanks
Sand it with either a red scotch pad, or p500 or p600 sand paper. Then Proceed on with adhesion promoter.
@@bpbrestorations2093 great work pal keep it up
Where is the overspray going
I have roof and wall exhaust fans so I imagine somewhere near the moon. Lol
Can I use primer spray can instead of sealant
Sealer is just primer thinned out with urethane reducer, so yes you can just prime it. It's just a slight bit more work.
@@bpbrestorations2093 thanks mate much appreciated
@@hasnainakiali4114 no problem bro! Good luck!
What if u sprayed adhesive promoter and then tried base 🤔
I would be afraid of the negative reaction, you will at the very least want to put on a thin coat of sealer.
Can i wet sand it with dawn and 600
Yes
I guess the primer on mine was really shitty. Scotch brite, and then the wax and grease remover dissolved the primer.
Good thing you figured that out now instead of after paint
@@bpbrestorations2093 Kind of through me off when I was wiping it off. It was like "Why is my rag so black?". Quick question, I haven't applied the sealer yet but should I apply it as a primer instead, since the original is gone?
Its a nice video but you left out some important parts.I wanted to see the spraying at regular speed start to finish. Also how you buffed sanded and polished out the orange peel would have been really nice to see seeing as how that produces the finished product.What do you buff with and what compound do you use ? Is spraying too wet or to slow causing the orange peel ?If you use spray cans woulfd you have those problems?if not what is or do you care because you sand the peel out with the 2000 grit sand paper?
I have other videos covering some of that stuff, I use a foam polishing pad either 3m, or chemical guys on 5 inch buffer or a 3m perfect it pad on a dw849 buffer. We always sand and buff or "denib" and polish right over 2000 grit. You can go higher to 3000 or 5000 but all you are doing is wasting time imo. In order to get the hang of spraying and patterns and speeds to eliminate the orange peel and the need for doing a ton of sanding you need to do a small test panel that you can keep sanding off after it dries until you get the hang of it.
@@bpbrestorations2093 Thank you for providing your knowledge ,experience and time in these videos.They are very helpful for me who has never sprayed plastic.I think I will be using an aerosol 2k primer as a sealer.What do you recommend ?Urethane polyurethane polyester filler or epoxy and what brand?
anywhere i can message you so you can respond quicker? i have 0 knowledge of cars and how to fix em alone lol, but i did have to buy bumper covers pre primed, and a fender as well that i plan on painting myself
Cbuckner0859@gmail.com
👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
You should not use wax and grease remover on plastic and do not use a red scuff pad.. Use the grey one
@SonomaLow12 thanks for the feedback, you are right, you don't technically need adhesion promoter. W&g is like 90% alcohol and you can use it I have done it for 20 years, just make sure you use the double towel method to wipe until it's 100% dry and leaves no residue. And you absolutely can use purple scotch for scuff even on metallics as long as you seal first. I have done this method for many years. Our paint is not peeling, but we have done dozens of redo from other shops where they are and this is my observation and answer to the problem. If you think you have a better method post the video or get off the bag.
@SonomaLow12 also I see you edited your original comment, I sent my response to your unedited conment lmao
Very informative but can you show the buffing of the orange peel?
I do have a video on that if you search our videos
I thought you have to add "flex additive" to the primer.
With modern urethane paint, it's very flexible unlike most of the old stuff like enamels and lacquers. I quit using flex additives and dont recommended any additives to the paint
I have to do this very thing thanks to a yote
Hi how long did you leave the wet in wet primer before base/clear thanks
45 min at 70 degrees
@@bpbrestorations2093 hi what if it’s air dry( no booth) thanks
As long as it's above 65 degrees you will be fine approximately same amount of time
@@bpbrestorations2093 ok thanks
My very first bumper never looked this bad. And I did it with the little purple mini harbor freight gun😮...tisk, tisk, tisk...
Chill out and detail something ho