Excellent as always! Still a similar prep that I used to do in the early 90's when I did autobody full time. I used to incorporate a flex additive in the clear when doing bumper covers.
Such great content, thanks for sharing Chris! You are knowledgeable and skilled at what you do. One tip you may know already, if you come across a urethane bumper (rare anymore) and need a flex agent, the Bulldog Adhesion promoter (in quart/gallon can) added to base or clear works perfectly. I was searching for a flex additive for my 86' Mustang project bumpers and learned on the Technical Data Sheet that Bulldog doubles as one. Urethane bumpers are like jello and it is holding up great on mine. Not like the stiffer Polypropylene or ABS bumpers of today lol.
Great video again Chris, your videos are always a pleasure to watch as you always include lots of good info on what you are doing and why you do it along with any pitfalls we might encounter. The bumper came out looking really nice with a great finish and very clean as well👏🙏👍John UK
I’m doing research so I can attempt my first paint job so a newbie. U’ve talked a good bit about all the different settings of the paint gun when applying each product, but I’m finding it difficult to understand how to troubleshoot which one of these settings I would need to adjust when facing issues. Like, what problems occur if my pressure is set to high or to low? What issues point to having the material flow set too low or high, or if the fan pattern needs adjustments? Maybe u have a video explaining this and I just haven’t found it yet. U’r channel has definitely gave me a bit more confidence that I might actually be able to accomplish this feat though. Thanks!
Thank you for a great informative video. Great as always. Like the way you showing a speed (it helps a lot!) Question. What tricks would be for spraying a UPOL high solids clear? Any changes to the general setting such as: pressure, fluid, distance, speed. Thanks 😊
I don't think so, I've got one on how to feather edge peeling paint. I need to organize some more playlist so everyone can easily access what they're looking for. Appreciate your comment. I'll definitely make a video on that topic.
I don't normally wear glasses when painting but laying the fine line I needed readers. A little alcohol wipe them down after you spray do the same with the camera lens.
do you ever use reducer in your clear? If so, what mix? I have been mixing 4:1:1 (clear:activator:reducer) but I feel like I could maybe go 4:1:2. I also use 1 step slower reducer (extra slow reducer with slow activator) What do you think?
I don't like reducing clear. I really don't feel there's any need especially with a 4:1 clear coat it's already thin. Check the TDS on the clear your using but 10% is the most you should reduce it.
@@GarageNoise interesting... I always got crappy orange peel results until I started reducing it. I'll have to look for that, I didn't find any info on the paint can or on the reducer can. In fact the reducer can literally has zero instructions!
@@WJHandyDad check the TDS for the clear for reduction. If your reducing it and getting good results that great. A lot of painters reduce clear. Look at you gun settings to help with orange peel. Fluid volume to air pressure ratio, and of course your speed and distance. Appreciate the comment
@@GarageNoise thank you. Keep up the good videos. I'm still teaching myself how to paint. I've improved tremendously thanks to channels like yours, Paint Society, and Marios Paint Class
I never use it and I've never had an issue. I warranty everything and have been at the same location for 15 years. Now I do use bulldog adhesion promoter and that is a flex additive. I don't add it to the primer but use it before primer or sealer. Appreciate your comment and support!
I have a plastic panelled Smartcar and the panel got scratched badly and needs a bit of filler and painted, to get it black again. There is no paint at the moment as it is natural plastic finish. Do I treat it the same as this?
i’ve been getting sand piling and grittiness from spraying this upon sealer. any tips or tricks would help. using satajet 5000 rp 1.3. full fluid full fan around 20psi. i tried using the vevor gun but it did the same thing. i’m thinking it has to be my technique
I would try reducing the upol just a bit more like 4:1:2.5 and see what that does. The only other thing is your distance somtimes in the heat if your too far away from the panel it may give you sand piling. Maybe try decreasing distance a bit.
Make sure your using correct speed activator for the temp your spraying in. Also consider using a wet bed/ color blender if your getting mottling. I have several videos that may help.
thanks for the tips. i have been using slow reducers and activators and the speedokote color blender in between coats for my wet bed and it is still feeling gritty. i guess it just takes more practice to get it down right
If I spray 2k primer sealer is there a time frame where I should get the base laid? Someone on UA-cam had said in order to make a chemical reaction it had to be within a couple days or you’d have to scuff to make a mechanical adhesion.
Interesting video but those mixing cups aren’t worth a cup of cold piss for calibration. WEIGHT YOUR MATERIAL. This way it’s more accurate and you will find a better finish for no extra cost.
Excellent as always! Still a similar prep that I used to do in the early 90's when I did autobody full time. I used to incorporate a flex additive in the clear when doing bumper covers.
Thanks for sharing!
Always learning on this channel
I appreciate that
Such great content, thanks for sharing Chris! You are knowledgeable and skilled at what you do. One tip you may know already, if you come across a urethane bumper (rare anymore) and need a flex agent, the Bulldog Adhesion promoter (in quart/gallon can) added to base or clear works perfectly. I was searching for a flex additive for my 86' Mustang project bumpers and learned on the Technical Data Sheet that Bulldog doubles as one. Urethane bumpers are like jello and it is holding up great on mine. Not like the stiffer Polypropylene or ABS bumpers of today lol.
That's a great tip for the community. I haven't mentioned it in a video but I will. Appreciate your comment and support!
Chris great tips and tricks. It hasn't been long since I found your channel but it's really good. Your instructions are very good
Great job Chris, excellent instructions and the results were super!
Thanks a bunch!
New subscribers here. I’m learning a lot from from your tutoring videos. 👍
Awesome! Welcome to the channel! Appreciate the comment and support!
Thanks again
Always welcome
Looks awsome Chris! I’m learning soo much from your videos! Thanks you.
Glad to hear it!
Always great videos Chris, good info too.
Thanks 👍
Why 70% isopropyl alcohol for prep instead of 90% or even 99.9%? Just curious, maybe you've covered this in another video.
The only reason is a lower flash point. Not sure it really makes it safer but that's what I go with. Appreciate your question and support!
Great job! No flex agent needed? Thanks!
Good video. Thanks for all the great tips .
Thanks for watching!
Wow nice 👍
Thanks for the visit
Hi amazing tips can you do another one about body repair/hammer @dolly puller etc
Yes I can, appreciate the comment!
Great video, always learn from your videos.
I appreciate that!
Great video again Chris, your videos are always a pleasure to watch as you always include lots of good info on what you are doing and why you do it along with any pitfalls we might encounter. The bumper came out looking really nice with a great finish and very clean as well👏🙏👍John UK
Awesome, thank you!
I’m doing research so I can attempt my first paint job so a newbie. U’ve talked a good bit about all the different settings of the paint gun when applying each product, but I’m finding it difficult to understand how to troubleshoot which one of these settings I would need to adjust when facing issues. Like, what problems occur if my pressure is set to high or to low? What issues point to having the material flow set too low or high, or if the fan pattern needs adjustments? Maybe u have a video explaining this and I just haven’t found it yet. U’r channel has definitely gave me a bit more confidence that I might actually be able to accomplish this feat though. Thanks!
Another great clip all comes down to the prep first without doing that your stuffed.
Absolutely
Thank you for a great informative video. Great as always. Like the way you showing a speed (it helps a lot!)
Question. What tricks would be for spraying a UPOL high solids clear? Any changes to the general setting such as: pressure, fluid, distance, speed. Thanks 😊
Most 4:1 clears will be very similar. A 2:1 clear is a bit thicker and may require some tweeks in technique.
I like to pre mask last, so when I'm finished spraying. I don't have to wait to unmask.
Yeah, i did it backwards
Great video!
Do you have any videos on how to fix a used bumper when it’s peeling?
Thanks
I don't think so, I've got one on how to feather edge peeling paint. I need to organize some more playlist so everyone can easily access what they're looking for. Appreciate your comment. I'll definitely make a video on that topic.
Another good video just as always have one question how long could you wait to spray base over sealer? Thanks
I saw you wearing glasses when you started spraying your sealer. How often do you and how do you keep the lenses clear when you do?
I don't normally wear glasses when painting but laying the fine line I needed readers. A little alcohol wipe them down after you spray do the same with the camera lens.
do you ever use reducer in your clear? If so, what mix? I have been mixing 4:1:1 (clear:activator:reducer) but I feel like I could maybe go 4:1:2. I also use 1 step slower reducer (extra slow reducer with slow activator) What do you think?
I don't like reducing clear. I really don't feel there's any need especially with a 4:1 clear coat it's already thin. Check the TDS on the clear your using but 10% is the most you should reduce it.
@@GarageNoise interesting... I always got crappy orange peel results until I started reducing it. I'll have to look for that, I didn't find any info on the paint can or on the reducer can. In fact the reducer can literally has zero instructions!
@@WJHandyDad check the TDS for the clear for reduction. If your reducing it and getting good results that great. A lot of painters reduce clear. Look at you gun settings to help with orange peel. Fluid volume to air pressure ratio, and of course your speed and distance. Appreciate the comment
@@GarageNoise thank you. Keep up the good videos. I'm still teaching myself how to paint. I've improved tremendously thanks to channels like yours, Paint Society, and Marios Paint Class
What’s your opinion on using flexible primer on plastic bumpers?
I never use it and I've never had an issue. I warranty everything and have been at the same location for 15 years. Now I do use bulldog adhesion promoter and that is a flex additive. I don't add it to the primer but use it before primer or sealer. Appreciate your comment and support!
@@GarageNoiseWhat's your thoughts on those bumpers that come already primed brother?
I have a plastic panelled Smartcar and the panel got scratched badly and needs a bit of filler and painted, to get it black again. There is no paint at the moment as it is natural plastic finish. Do I treat it the same as this?
Yes, I would.
i’ve been getting sand piling and grittiness from spraying this upon sealer. any tips or tricks would help. using satajet 5000 rp 1.3. full fluid full fan around 20psi. i tried using the vevor gun but it did the same thing. i’m thinking it has to be my technique
i’ve also been getting mottling and metallics standing in my blend areas. i’m still new to painting so for sure it has to be my technique
I would try reducing the upol just a bit more like 4:1:2.5 and see what that does. The only other thing is your distance somtimes in the heat if your too far away from the panel it may give you sand piling. Maybe try decreasing distance a bit.
Make sure your using correct speed activator for the temp your spraying in. Also consider using a wet bed/ color blender if your getting mottling. I have several videos that may help.
thanks for the tips. i have been using slow reducers and activators and the speedokote color blender in between coats for my wet bed and it is still feeling gritty. i guess it just takes more practice to get it down right
If I spray 2k primer sealer is there a time frame where I should get the base laid? Someone on UA-cam had said in order to make a chemical reaction it had to be within a couple days or you’d have to scuff to make a mechanical adhesion.
Yes, that's correct if you wait outside the manufacturers recommendation you need to sand for adhesion.
I’ve ran into the rough texture issue when using the 2 in 1 primers no matter the brand and always have to over reduce. 🤦♂️
👍
How do you like nason and upol paints? Compared to finish1 and speedokote
I only use nason paint but the upol Aerosol was great. I like upol clear I think I prefer that over finish one. Both are good
Sagola is one of the absolute best clear guns I've used
Agreed!
My mind was blown seeing a paint gun that you can put your mix cup in
👍
Testament to your skill when you are not getting clear runs at 5 inches.
👊
Interesting video but those mixing cups aren’t worth a cup of cold piss for calibration. WEIGHT YOUR MATERIAL. This way it’s more accurate and you will find a better finish for no extra cost.