Changing the PCV system on a Audi TT mk1 - Part 10
Вставка
- Опубліковано 21 січ 2022
- Hi everyone,
Please consider subscribing if you like this type of content and thank you for the support!
In this episode, I tackle the challenging job of changing the PCV system. I do this without removing the inlet manifold to save time and effort. The PCV system is made of plastic and rubber and holds an air vacuum to create better efficiency with your engine. Over time these parts become brittle and fragile and are prone to cracking. If this happens you will have rough idle issues with your car and an unbalanced fuel mix which can result in high emissions and black smoke from your exhaust.
As always thanks for watching and for the support.
View my previous Audi TT Mk1 front suspension work at • Repairing the front su...
Subscribe to my UA-cam / witty924
Follow my podcast at anchor.fm/witty-924
Follow my Instagram updates at / witty924
Check out the first tour of my Porsche 924 when it was on 4 jack stands • Let's take a tour of m...
Music by www.bensound.com - Авто та транспорт
Thanks! Super helpful
Thanks for the comment and support Div, great to hear 👍
I’m going to attempt to do my pcv system on my TT this month… this video is perfect to help me.. thank you
Thanks for the comment and support Ian. Great to hear this will help. Let me know how you get on 🤞👍
Great work Witty and always good to see ways of doing things easier, hope to see more vids this year 🤞👍
Thank you! This info applies to my 2003 GTI 1.8t as well! I really appreciate you for making this video for us all. 🤘🤓
Thanks for the comment Genie. Hope the job doing this on your GTi gies well. 👍
Excellent & always wondered how it looked when removed/replaced in one piece,
Thanks for the Comment and support HJ, hope the vid helps 🤞👍
Thanks for this video, it has been a massive help, as it made my task very simple following this video.
Thanks for the comment and support Richard. Great to hear the video helped and I hope your job went well on the car too. 🤞👍
Thank you very much, mate. Really nice shots to get an idea of how to do the job.
Hi Matt, thanks for the comment and support. I hope it helps you out on your PCV change and it all goes smoothly 👍🤞
@@Witty924 Almost got it. It is a pain to do with the engine code AJQ, since they got a bigger metall bracket for more connectors which is imposible to remove without getting the intake manifold out. So there is even less room under the manifold. Besides that, the rubber piping is shorter (less pieces), which means that the metal part is longer and gives you no room to play with flexing pipes to fit things. My elbow was not going all the way down due to the heigh of the metal piping. To remove the metal pipe, the coolant flange screw has to be removed. Perhaps you can pin this info, because it might be useful for other people with the AJQ. Really tedious job. Cheers and thank you again, mate
Great content. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the comment and support Masonhope 👍
great c
walk-through! really helpful thnx!
HI just, thanks for the comment and support 👍
Hiya pal
I’ve just had my vacuum suction purge valve break causing mega misfiring and terrible idle .. after watching your video looks like I’ll be able to remove old part an replace it without having to remove the manifold nice one 👍👌
Hi Jules, thanks for the comment and support. Great to hear the video will help you out. Just use a wobble end foe the bolt that is a little hars to reach and you should be good to go 👍
Mine is BAM 225 so it’s a bit different than but I did remove the intake manifold because it’s broken the elbow pipe ..F and …BG both RIP so badly)*
I’m thinking to make those PCV plasticky-things have all silicones or metals in them
Hi Hella, thanks for the comment and support. So definitely look at the silicon hose route. Lots of great kits out there ans they will last well, plus you can get some great colours to match the car exterior paint. 👍🤞
great vid, thanks for the side by side layout. I have this job to do tomorrow so this helps. I'm gonna have to remove the manifold though as i have a different engine layout. 😢
Hi Riddler, thanks for the comment and support. Glad the video helps. I know on the 225 you have extra parts in the way so a little more work involved. Also having the manifold off gives you a chance to replace the gaskets as they can be a vaccum failure too. Dont forget about the throttle body if you do unplug it, I'm sure it may need recalibrating. Good luck tomorrow 🤞👍
@@Witty924 Thanks. Yep ive got the vag com software for the throttle ad ive had to replace it before. Did you know the teeth inside the throttle that controlls the flaps are plastic? i found out when i took it apart after getting a throttle code error. Ahh the TT... such fun
@@RiddlerOnYutube those cheeky engineers, cost cutting on things the eye doesnt see, until it goes wrong haha. Hope all goes well, let me know how you get on 🤞👍
@@Witty924 did it! i had to wait a few days for a new gasket but it is all fitted now. the pipes were so blocked and broken, glad i noticed it and changed them all. I"ll look to invest in some good silicone ones in future but these are ok for now. Wow i feel i saved so much money doin this and have great confidence for other work now. i'm going to drop the sump clean it and replace the pickup pipe. Ahh the TT!
@@RiddlerOnYutube fantastic to hear it all went well, it's a great feeling knowing you did the work and saved a bunch of money too. Enjoy the ride they are great motors and thanks for the messages 👍🚙💨😎
I guess what I’d like to know is what the difference between PCV plumbing a 225hp BAM mk1 TT and a 180hp version?
🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼😎🍀🇦🇺
Hey Steve, thanks for the comment and support. Check this link out on the TT forum, this should help you. 👍 www.ttforum.co.uk/threads/bam-breater-pipe-diagram.1895677/
Hello Witty, great informative video brother. Do you happen to know the part numbers for the hoses? The link is not working for me. Thank you
Hi Josue, thanks for the comment and support. Here is another link from ebay, lots of options and very cost effective. Hope that helps 🤞👍
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/394643682713?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=hhvadkj9rxg&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=8h9VmC7aS7i&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Well made video mate well done 👍🏿.
Can I ask where you sourced the new bits from ?
Thanks Raj for the comment and support. Here is the link, you might find slightly cheaper options if you search ebay. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/384662070914
Nice done ordered a set. Hope they are the same 👍🏿👍🏿
Cool...do you have details of the cable ties and tool?
Hi Patrick thanks for the comment. Here are the links to the tool and the steel cable ties 👍
CABLE TIE TOOL
Deal: Dechengbao Stainless Steel Cable Tie Gun and Zip Tie Tool,Cable Tie Tool for Stainless Steel Cable Ties,Metal tie wrap Gun www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07KVYX768/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_i_dl_0HF8V6PW4W4F53V6RX8Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
STEEL CABLE TIES
Proster 304 Stainless Steel Cable Ties 100Pcs 4.6*400mm Marine Grade Multi-Purpose Metal Self Locking Zip Ties for Home Automotive etc www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07T12ZGM5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_i_8JNYYB1B8W9P1A0EVE09?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Mine came loose the other day and popped off making the car cut out when idling , took it to a garage they never noticed it at all just it could be anything so woule need a proper inspection , i got home had a look myself and there it was clear as day ,put the pipe back on and car was right as rain ! .
Thanks for the comment Jack and awesome to hear it was an easy fix for you. Sometimes just a little inspection saves a world of pain 👍
People watching this for help, first part of advice I would give is to save you some headache, remove the front bumper and intake, when you go to replace all your cooling lines on the car, best to do the cooling lines and EVAP at the same time, also just buy a block off and block off the EVAP, SAI and the vacuum box on top of the valve cover, all of this causes you Boost issues and will be the reason for a Boost leak, IF your State doesn't do emission test.
Thanks for the comment and advice Music, great tips 👍
Great video! About to do the same today for APX engine. How much time did it take to replace these parts?
Thanks for the comment and support Jusa. So without filming the video I think a good 2 hours to take your time and give yourself time to check as much of the vacuum piping around the engine as you can. Hope that helps and good luck with the job 👍
@@Witty924 Great, thanks! Hopefully nothing else brakes while Im in there 😅
Could you post the link for the parts you install in the description of your videos
Hi Andre thanks for the comment and here is the link for you. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/384662070914?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=bqju8rfvt5s&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=8h9VmC7aS7i&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
is there a place you can buy all the pipes you need in one kit ?
Hi Simon, thanks for the comment, so lots of great kits on ebay, this is the one I bought, hope that helps 👍 www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Crankcase-Breather-Hose-Pipe-For-VW-Jetta-Bora-MK4-AUDI-A3-1-8T-AP-Golf-Set-/384662070914?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0
Hello. Please do you have a link to the kit for bam engine
looks like these guys can supply the 225bhp BAM engine parts, they look to be the same but chat with them before you buy. hope all goes well 🤞👍
Did you replace the suction pump too? I’m struggling to find where the suction pump goes
Hi Zach, thanks for the comment and support. So it sits under the air intake manifold. Its additional pipework and depending on if you have the 180bhp or the 225bhp it will mean digging a little deeper. This link may help on the audi forum which details the suction pump. Hope that helps 🤞👍www.audiworld.com/forums/tt-mk1-discussion-9/pcv-valve-hose-replacement-amu-engine-bww-long-1946776/#post17288495
Hi there pal can you tell me where did you get them pipes from as i cant get parts for it been looking everywhere.
The silicone pipes dont fit thats what mechanics say to me.
I drive s3 8l BAM i just need them pipes.
Hi Michael, just do a search on Ebay, lots of options to choose from and starting from £12. Hope that's helps. 👍🤞
great video! Do you have a link to the parts?
thanks for the comment and support Kianyi, try this link for ebay 👍www.ebay.co.uk/itm/384662070914
@@Witty924 thank you mate. appreciate it
Hi! Where did you get the new hose kit from?
Hi Gabriel, thanks for the comment and support. The kits can be found on Ebay from as little as £12, just match your car reg and it will find the kits for you. Let me know how you get on 👍
How is the quality? Just want to make sure it will hold up. Surprised Ebay is the only place I could find these
@@gabrielwiggins7336 the quality was as good as the OEM parts I removed. You could go direct to dealer parts. Let me know how you get on with the job. 👍🤞
Is it the same number of pipes on the 225?
Hi 4th, thanks for the comment and support. I think there are a couple of additional hoses that you can change. Hope that helps 🤞👍
@@Witty924 ok, thanks for the swift reply!
@@4th_Lensman_of_the_apocalypse no problem, let me know how you get on, hope the video helps you out 🤞
Hey how am I meant to fit the bottom pipe in I cannot for the life of me get it in there or get the horseshoe clip on enough to keep it still
Hi Fotner, thanks for the comment and support. Make sure the new oring is the same size as the old one if its slightly bigger it will stop the pipe fitting snug. That said, use a little oil or silicon spray on the oring and end of the pipe, just to lubricate enough so it slides in more easily. Hope that helps 👍🤞
@@Witty924 how tight is it supposed to be in there no wiggle at all?
@@dotner7976 yes it should be very snug to ensure no air leaks 🤞
@@Witty924 that’s what I thought it was not, believe gasket and horse shoe were both too big, Ik it’s controversial and possibly problematic in the future but I just put the old gasket in and old horseshoe isn’t as controversial but it seems to be snug now
Sometimes the new parts supply in kits can be a little out of spec. Glad the reused parts did the job 👍🚙💨
so did this fix your rich condition?
Unfortunately not identity, it made the car run smoother at idle and revving but I'm on a wild goose chase for another vacuum leak so have to do a smoke test in the next week to see if I can find it.
@@Witty924 ah thats a shame, im chasing the same issue and making this change today following your video. next thing to check if this doesn't solve things is my intercooler and piping.
smoke test seems like a good way to go, how are you getting it done?
@@tigershav that's a good shout I need to check that too. Good luck with the work and let me know how you get on 👍
@@Witty924 so i got it done, made a few mistakes along the way as this is the first time im doing something more involved than switching the MAF. found that the old T was not even connected to the hard pipe, was just sort of flapping there.
engine is still running very rich but on the plus side no more petrol smell in the cabin.
just to be sure, the pin that holds the hard pipe, does it go above or below the o ring? got mine in place but it doesn't seem that solid, and also the first time i pulled on it just to check and it just came off, almost lost the o ring 😅
final question (sorry for such a big reply)
assuming u missed the question before, how are you getting that smoke test done?
@@tigershav has it solved the issue ?
Cable ties
Jesus this car will have boost leaks and lack full power
Anyone watching this, use jubilee clips
This is where the 1.8t suffers it’s worst boost leak issues
Thanks for the comment Brad, I can assure you there is zero boost leaks with steel cable ties 👍
@@Witty924 yea I noticed u used the tool, I was commenting more for those who may use just normal cable ties
We work on these engines I made a special boost leak tester that inserts in where the air filter is so we can pressurise the system
Literally every car we see has some form of tiny leak in these pipes
Resulting in loss of BHP
We favour swapping out to high quality silicone items from Forge
@@kells77 thats great advice, I know these systems are a nightmare for finding vaccum leaks, especially now they are at the 20 year old bracket. The silicon Forge pipework looks awesome too 👍
@@Witty924 I love the 20vt engine
We do engine conversions my mk3 golf is on my page with the s3 engine
I’m currently building a new engine, 20vt but this time I’m stroking it out to 2.1, iv spent £15k on parts
Basically a brand new engine down to every single bolt that’s on it
I picked up all the last bits from Audi last week, bolts and odds and ends bill came to £1800!!!
On my UA-cam the engine that’s in it is forged bottom end big turbo and was 400 BHP
New engine will be around 550
Your is the 180 engine AUQ code probably
@@kells77 sounds like epic work Brad, I will definitely check out your page, thanks for sharing 👍
none of those parts you got even fit my BEA engine code i have a Y pipe instead of a 3 way connector like you got im so confused and lost and all the BEA engine code pcv system parts are fucking outrageously expensive compared to AMU bam and or engine codes making this the worst and biggest nightmare car ive ever fucking owned in my entire fucking life.
@@Bangerboy985 is this the hose kit you have on you engine. Sounds like you have a 225bhp not a 180bhp. Let me know www.ebay.co.uk/itm/176336719155?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=2-oszhl0s_6&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=8h9VmC7aS7i&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
@@Witty924 I do have a 225bhp however the link you provided I believe could be correct however I'm not sure because I can't spin the Y hose thats there also.... the hoses that have a yellow cap on i have no idea where it goes. I have the whole kit minus that Y connector