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Witty 924
United Kingdom
Приєднався 23 кві 2017
Welcome to my channel Witty 924, and if you enjoy my videos please subscribe and help me create more. Thank you!
I started this channel by restoring my 1984 Porsche 924 2.0 to a great road-going example of the first classic front-engined transaxle car that Porsche launched in 1975.
Having had such a great response from UA-cam visitors and channel watchers I am now expanding my videos to cover general reviews, maintenance and upgrades on my daily drivers and looking for more classic car projects to work on. (maybe some modern project cars too :)
I welcome all of my subscribers, and watchers to recommend types of maintenance, car topics, and future project cars for the channel.
Thank you for all the support, for subscribing to my channel and for taking the time to join me on this adventure with cars.
Follow my podcast at anchor.fm/witty-924
Witty 924
I started this channel by restoring my 1984 Porsche 924 2.0 to a great road-going example of the first classic front-engined transaxle car that Porsche launched in 1975.
Having had such a great response from UA-cam visitors and channel watchers I am now expanding my videos to cover general reviews, maintenance and upgrades on my daily drivers and looking for more classic car projects to work on. (maybe some modern project cars too :)
I welcome all of my subscribers, and watchers to recommend types of maintenance, car topics, and future project cars for the channel.
Thank you for all the support, for subscribing to my channel and for taking the time to join me on this adventure with cars.
Follow my podcast at anchor.fm/witty-924
Witty 924
Fitting front brake discs, pads, and wheel bearings to a Porsche 924 - part 39
Hi everyone,
Please consider subscribing if you like this type of content and thank you for the support!
In this video, I will replace the front brake discs, pads and wheel bearings, and show helpful hints and tips while completing this work.
Some useful torque specs for this job are:
Alloy wheel = 94 ft-lb
Front Caliper bolts to steering knuckle = 60 ft-lb
Clamping nut with Allen bolt for wheel bearing 9 to 11 ft-lb
If you do change the dust guard (what a painted) the 3 nuts are 7 ft-lb
The new parts installed were bought from Autodoc Germany
Please follow my Instagram at witty924
Please follow my podcast at Spotify open.spotify.com/show/14cESmY9jrcEx580D3VlNS
Thank you for watching and for the support.
Witty!
Please consider subscribing if you like this type of content and thank you for the support!
In this video, I will replace the front brake discs, pads and wheel bearings, and show helpful hints and tips while completing this work.
Some useful torque specs for this job are:
Alloy wheel = 94 ft-lb
Front Caliper bolts to steering knuckle = 60 ft-lb
Clamping nut with Allen bolt for wheel bearing 9 to 11 ft-lb
If you do change the dust guard (what a painted) the 3 nuts are 7 ft-lb
The new parts installed were bought from Autodoc Germany
Please follow my Instagram at witty924
Please follow my podcast at Spotify open.spotify.com/show/14cESmY9jrcEx580D3VlNS
Thank you for watching and for the support.
Witty!
Переглядів: 198
Відео
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Removing the centre console and fixing the reverse switch on a Porsche 996 Turbo Tiptronic - part 6
How to fit a racing steering wheel to a Porsche 924 - Part 35
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Welding the seat mounts on a Porsche 924 - part 34
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How to fit a new fuel pump to a Porsche 996 Turbo - Part 4
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Removing the drum brake on a Porsche 924 - Part 33
Переглядів 2,4 тис.Рік тому
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Porsche 924 Full Service & Front Wheel Bearing Adjustment - Part 32
Переглядів 1,2 тис.2 роки тому
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Nice! Anyone try this on a E46 BMW?
I am in the middle of this job. I just cutted the fuel pump and accumulator rubbers and used grip pliers as you did. It sure was a pain. I had to use a saw to remove the inlet hose of the accumulator. It was fused to the accumulator. Now I need to remove the outlet hose of the accumulator connected to the hard line, which is located above the gearbox. Still thinking on that last one.
@@marty9248 hey Marty, thanks for the comment and support. I feel your pain, it's a tough job especially if the hoses haven't been touched in decades. They are open to all the elements so they get pretty rough in there. With the accumulator, I used lots of penetrating fluid and good fitting spanners to crack the nuts, once cracked I kept turning back and forth until the nut spun on the hose fitting as it should. Getting to the end connected to the hardline is a pain if you are on jack stands. Let me know how you get on 🤞 👍
Those wheels gotta go.
@@mytruthslays1303 they are very chrome 👍
18 minutes of musical annoyance. Versus f all psi content. Are you so desperate for followers that you do this crap??? This could have been a 3 minute informative video. What PSI is acceptable. Top and lower bounds. How you test it the best way and why? Threaded connector vs rubber knob. You actually decided to upload this rubbish? Just go play golf or some useless crap and don’t waste peoples time. What a knob!!!!!!
You’re a legend bud. Keep making 924 restore and repair vids. Cheers from Canada 🙌
@@almightybirdwatcher4986 thanks for the comment and support bird. Interior vids coming soon. 👍
Nice video,thank you. I am in the proces of overhauling the fuelsystem of my 924 also. I will be reusing my in-tank pump. It looks very nice still, but will replace the small rubber hose (brittle and ripped) on the inside and then run some tests. Can you explain why you left the in-tank fuel pump in place? It prevents cleaning out the tank efectively.
@@marty9248 hey Marty, thanks for the comment and support. Great to hear you are refurbishing the fuel system on your 924. I did remove and check the intank pump separately, it was in great condition and the tank was too, so no work required, I was lucky. I gave the tank outer a good clean and then undersealed the tank and rear of the car, should hold well for another decade all being well. Let me know how you get on 👍
Very nice 356
My 2014 Range Rover (full size) also has the auxiliary battery and its in the rear beside the rear fuse panel. The import auto parts dealers did not even have a listing for it. The dealer had it in stock. Prefer not to roll the dice on Ebay for electronics.
@@m.cooper1854 thanks for the comment and hope the job went OK. Good point on Ebay, always check the seller to ensure it's from a good trade seller who also sells on eBay. 👍
Wow! That thing is in incredible condition! So cool!
@@Soulesshuskk the paint was like glass, stunning car!
When putting back together is there torque settings for the nuts on top of the head.
@@russelldownesdownes5618 hey Russell thanks for the comment. It's a low torque only 10nm as you don't want to collapse the new rubber gasket. I hope that helps 👍
@@Witty924 Do you still have your tt
@@russelldownesdownes5618 I bought it as a 6 month project, was great fun, great little motor. Sold it on to a new home. I have thought about getting another one as a project. Maybe the 225bhp next time but still the mk1 👍
@@Witty924 I have the 225 roadster and the 190 coupe
@@russelldownesdownes5618 nice! The roadster 225 is great fun! Have you done any mods?
Just done the arb bushes last weekend copied your instructions to the letter thanks a lot perfect again 👌
@@darrenmetcalfe9941 hey Darren, thanks for the comment and support. Great to hear it helped you out. I hope the car is driving great 👍
Hey I bought the same product and had the same issue that it wouldn’t connect, do you know why that is? Few months ago my mechanic connected his and it work fine
@@brunolotycz1293 hi Bruno thanks foe the comment. Sometimes the pin connector needs a solid push also the unit should connect when engine is running or with the ignition set to on. In can be a little temperamental. Let me know how you get on 👍
Nice video thanks for sharing, the front brakes are looking smart. What paint did you use on the callipers?
@@pauljohns3186 thanks for the comment and support Paul. I used enamel high temp paint which worked nicely and seems robust with no flaking or chipping. 🤞
Good work. Your dust shields are on their last legs, just like mine. Couldn’t find new replacements :(. I would avoid using a hammer against a ratchet wrench though.
@@chrismadge7292 thanks Chris, it's made good difference to the front end. They are my last leg rachets so they are almost ready for the bin 👍
none of those parts you got even fit my BEA engine code i have a Y pipe instead of a 3 way connector like you got im so confused and lost and all the BEA engine code pcv system parts are fucking outrageously expensive compared to AMU bam and or engine codes making this the worst and biggest nightmare car ive ever fucking owned in my entire fucking life.
@@Bangerboy985 is this the hose kit you have on you engine. Sounds like you have a 225bhp not a 180bhp. Let me know www.ebay.co.uk/itm/176336719155?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=2-oszhl0s_6&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=8h9VmC7aS7i&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
@@Witty924 I do have a 225bhp however the link you provided I believe could be correct however I'm not sure because I can't spin the Y hose thats there also.... the hoses that have a yellow cap on i have no idea where it goes. I have the whole kit minus that Y connector
Nice review, mate!
@@Tushy-hv1rf thanks for the comment and support 👍
From where did you purchase the centre caps? Thanks.
@@paulqormi Hi Paul, thanks for the comment. I got them on Ebay, a decent price rather than paying full audi price. 👍
Thank you!
Great video - thanks! Did you ever trst the fuel pressure gauge after you fixed the issue? Just wondering if your fuel pressure really was zero due to the split hoses?
@@youngsyr thanks for the comment and support. So the gauge seems to be all good, there is an amount of pressure required to make the gauge work and I had 2 large splits in the pipes in the tank., which I did in the next video. With the amount of psi the pump gives it doesn't surprise me the fuel just couldn't get passed the splits to the gauge at the back of the car. Anyway, all fixed and running great again. 👍
@@Witty924 Great, thanks for letting me know - I have a non-starting 996 Turbo that seems to be fuel related and have already ruled out relays and fuses. Mine doesn't catch at all on ignition though (but will if you spray Easy Start in to the intake). Next step is to pressure test at the fuel filter. I really don't want to have to go diving into the (full!) fuel tank, but no specialist can fit me in within the next month, so I may have to!
@@youngsyr sounds like a fuel issue if you do get a start with the starter spray. Check out my vid and have a look into the tank, just take it step by step. Even if you just get to look into the tank to see if the pipes are ok or split. If they are good then it is most likely a pump failure but that's tends to be a little more rare. Let me know how you get on 🤞👍
Bautiful Europa...its funny i see some Europas had twin windscreen wipers and some had just a single wiper. Anybody know why is it like this on the Europas?
@@raymondchan9802 great comment. I don't know the answer to that, but need to find out now 🤞
Nice video thanks I have the same issue, did you fix the issue? Was it the fuel pump?
@@tazotazo7862 thanks for the comment and support. It was the infamous fuel pipes on the fuel pump and swirl pot. I did a couple of videos to show the problem. A new pump unit fixed the issue and the car is flying strong again 💪 🚙💨👍
I love how you started the video saying it would be quick and easy lol 😂
@@christianhcevallos thanks for the comment Christian, fair, if you have the tools, its one of the easier jobs you can do on the driveway. 🤞👍
Can I buy that welded modified shifter of yout if you still have it?
@@thecliff802 hi, thanks for the comment. Drop me an email 👍
Do you have a e-mail ? I hava problem vid my car 924
Would love that especially in that colour
@@craigwilson777 it's a bucket list car for sure 🤞
@@Witty924 definitely bud
great and very informative vids
@@sidewayssam thanks for the comment and support 👍
Do you just jack up the lr4 or is there a sequence to do it so it doesn't mess up the air suspension
Hi Karl, thanks for the comment. So set your suspension to the highest level that way the air suspension will.not try and over adjust as you jack the car up. The ladder chassis has lots of great points to lift the car and place jack stands. Use a few as its heavy. I hope that helps 👍
Hey quick question thats a bit off topic to the video. In the beginning at 0:00 (visible again at 15:00) there is a red tube running down and left. What does this connect? My 924 has the white plastic bit but no hose and I can't figure out what it's supposed to be connected to Would be super thankful for some help
Hi Pepe thanks for the comment. Great question. The tube connects to the back of your alternator. It provides direct cooling for the unit. The cooling hose can be bought in various colours too. Hope that helps 👍
A rare beast! 😈
I have one!! Exactly like that.
Thanks for the comment whichbike. You have a great car 👍🚙💨
Where did you pick up the pump and pipework from?
Hi Stait, thanks for the comment and support.i went for a Magneti Morelli fuel pump. I recommend autodoc as they have a number of options you can consider. The fuel hose you can get from design 911 or eBay. A few places sell them. They range from £20 to £30. I hope that helps 👍
@@Witty924 Thanks 😄
Many thanks for the video. It resolved my reverse switch that was not working anymore. I followed each step of the video and miracle, rear lights, door mirror and rear proximity sensors are working again ! Many thanks for the support
Hi Rich, thanks for the comment and support. Great to hear that the video helped out and the car is fighting fit again 💪 👍
SVJ sounds epic!
as you say very cool, saves lot of mess thanks
Thanks Michael for the comment and support 👍
Thanks for the insight. I appreciate it.
Thanks frazer for the comment and support 👍
@@Witty924 : I’m considering getting a 924 for my daughter for her 18th, so it’s been a relief to hear how simple they are to work on. It sounds like they aren’t too much more difficult than a mk2 Escort, although the fueling system sounds like it could be a bit of a faff.
@@frazerguest2864 It's great to hear you are considering one. It certainly has many similarities with other 80s classics, if you have a good tool set, a place at home to wrench and a little time, they are great cars to get your hands dirty on. You are right about the fuel system, the CIS systems can be a little temperamental, but there is always help around the corner. What model 924 are you considering?
@@Witty924 : Insurance-wise, there’s very little between the 2.0 and the S. I had been window shopping later S’s, but there’s a Romanian chap who sells kits to supercharge the 2.0 using the Eaton blower from a MINI Cooper S, which boosts power up to around 150-160 bhp. The biggest contributing factor is going to be the condition of the bodywork. Whilst I can weld to an acceptable standard, the oily bits are a lot easier to change than cutting out and fabricating new metalwork. I’ve had enough of doing that over the years with old Land Rovers !
@@frazerguest2864 I hear you on the old landy, they always come with a welder :). There is a good video by number27 on a 924 with the supercharger kit, goes well. The 2.0l was my preferred route as it was an easier engine to tinker with. The 2.5 is a smoother unit and hits the 150-160hp mark you mention. As the 924 was galvanized from the factory, they seem to weather well, that said the sills can be the weak point. Let me know which one you choose, it will be great to see. 👍🤞
The number plate should say finance
Haha, indeed
Epic exhaust, must be an Akrapovič
Awesome. What were the main differences between this and the standard 931?
Apart from the cosmetic changes, it had an uprated intercooler and other important minor engine changes to accept more HP and also suspension changes. Basically, given it a better platform for homologation to become a race car. I believe the red pinstriping matching the side panel graphics are unique to the GT. It has a huge turbo and can put out a LOT more power if needed.
where did you find the protective plate for under the engine?
Hi indy, thanks for the comment and support. So that is the front undertray that they all left the factory with. Over the years I'm sure many 924 and 944s lost them. Check on eBay to see if you can get one. 👍🤞
Is that a 964 conversion?
Mine is BAM 225 so it’s a bit different than but I did remove the intake manifold because it’s broken the elbow pipe ..F and …BG both RIP so badly)* I’m thinking to make those PCV plasticky-things have all silicones or metals in them
Hi Hella, thanks for the comment and support. So definitely look at the silicon hose route. Lots of great kits out there ans they will last well, plus you can get some great colours to match the car exterior paint. 👍🤞
*Promo sm*
Not a rare car
Certainly is in the UK when you factor in the dead ones and the ones off the road. Probably 20 or so.
Very special car, nice to see it out in the wild 👍
Put an Audi V10 in your 924. That way when people say that it has just an Audi engine and not a Porsche engine in it, you can smile and rev.
Oh wait, I just remembered that it's actually a Lambo engine.
Epic idea Deth, not sure it would fit haha. I have considered the audi 1.8T engine conversion that is often done. 🤔
👍👍
great diy posting! planning on getting mine done over the weekend
Hey Juyopham, thanks for the comment and support, hope the work goes well on the car at the weekend. Let me know how you get on 🤞👍
Hi Everyone, I appreciate all the great comments and feedback. I need to update you on a mistake I made on the video. I have realised that I had the pressure test kit set up the wrong way round. The switchable valve should be after the gauge reader. This is important because you can measure system pressure at 75psi/5bar and then control pressure at 51psi/3.6 bar by switching the value to a closed position. I have re-run the test and confirm that I do have low pressure and when you close the valve, the pressure drops to a regulated pressure of 3 bar 41 psi. So I need to raise the pressure with a fix on the WUR. Thanks for the understanding everyone 👍
No mate you did have it set up correctly in the video. The tap goes between the WUR and the gauge. (Haynes manual calls the WUR the control pressure regulator too) Closing the tap checks system pressure as stated on page 77 paragraph 8 of Haynes manual.
@@Danny380bhp thanks Danny, so I took the WUR off, cleaned it up again, no blockage found, I also adjusted for warm/hot pressure and I got a reading of 52 psi but with the pressure kit set up as stated above in my pinned comment. So I thought I was out of the woods. The car is running well, I took it for a 5 to 10 mile trip, all good. I have a long trip this weekend so I will keep an eye on things and fuel mpg. Got to love the old classics haha 🤞👍🚙💨
Just remember that the WUR and Aux air valve are just devices that aid the warm up of the engine (act as a choke) and that once the car is at operating temperature they are no longer doing anything at all. When at operating temp - WUR is closed and no longer flowing fuel through & Aux Air valve is shut completely. Gotta love the classics!
@@Danny380bhp we are on the same page. The adjustment I made was to ensure it was definitely closed when warm/hot. I did the test and adjustment on the AAV so that is operating as it should be. Have you ever tried adjusting the pressure valve in the fuel distributor unit?
@@Witty924 there’s no need to adjust the shims on the fuel distributor if you have good system pressure imo
Really helpful video thank you
Thanks Adrian for the comment and support 👍