Symptoms of a Leaky Pressure Reducing Valve & How to Replace it
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- Опубліковано 29 сер 2024
- This video shows the symptoms of a leaky pressure reducing valve (PRV) and how to replace it. A leaky PRV does not regulate the static pressure although it still regulates the running pressure. It needs to be fixed or replaced in order to have a safe static water pressure for the home.
Originally skipped this video since I didn't like the auto generated voice over. After Days of UA-cam scrolling trying to find a similar problem, I came back to this same video and found it was exactly what I needed. Lesson learned.
Well done! Most of us experiencing the same issues much appreciate the step by step (including pressure readings). Thanks for sharing.
Glad it was helpful!
I recently used the rebuilt kit offered for my Wilkins 1-1/4" 600, and read up a lot before attempting from all the advice in the commit section on Amazon & YT videos. Prepping by boring smooth the open shaft where the stem & o-ring glides is the key, and it worked out fine for me. An original rebuilt kit cost $83 w/tax from Amazon, and a new PRV would have been $572 w/tax, at 1/7th the cost, it was worth the gamble.
Thanks for sharing your experience! You did a great job! I agree that it is worth trying the rebuilt kit first. I considered the rebuilt kit for my PRV and found that the price difference was ~$20. The new PRV (1 in. NR3XL) was ~$85 from Home Depot and the rebuilt kit was ~$65 from Amazon. I appreciate that you have shared some key technical details for using the rebuilt kit. Next time, I will try the rebuilt kit. It will be a lot of fun and decrease the cost.
You can save a lot of money by just removing the black plastic bonnet on the regulator then grabbing the cartridge bolt with vice grips and pulling out diaphragm assembly no need to use pipe wrenches to remove entire regulator. cleaning the frozen cartridge assembly that is stuck from calcium buildup, the retaining bolt that bolts to the seal ring on the bottom and the diaphragm on the top needs needs to slide both ways about 1/4 inch so unscrew the assembly and clean use o-ring lube or plumbers lube on bolt stem and all rubber for reassembly, best to take pictures during disassembly. No worries if you brake it--- you buy a repair kit for 1/3 the price of the complete regulator on line-- so its work the time.
Thank you very much for the helpful information! I am very interested in the low-cost approach you suggested and will definitely try it next time. It would also be an excellent opportunity to learn more about the inner structure of the pressure reducing valve. Thank you for sharing!
You have done a great job in explaining the pressure valve and how to change PRV too. One thing the background noise is too much. You could have completed cut off the background noice.
Thanks for your comments and tips!
The explanation is really easy to understand
Thank you :-)
I have the same prv. Installed it, now my psi drops by 20 when I flow water. Lovely
That is great. Cheers!
Thank you so much!! I did it myself thanks to your video👍
Awesome. Glad it helped. :)
Your instruction is very detailed and clear. Thank you very much.
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video- thank you
Great job explaining the problem and solutions, loved hearing the kids in the background! Must be in SoCal?
Thank you! I am glad you like this video. Yes, we are in SoCal. :-)
Very educational video😊😊
Thank you 🤗
Thanks for the well-marked "what is what" at 1:06. Does the "sprinklers" refer to lawn water sprinklers? In my townhouse, I have a fire suppression water sprinkler system, and it branches out just downstream of the main shutoff ball valve, but upstream of the Pressure Reducing Valve. So, while my PRV location would protect the plumbing in the house, I worry about the high municipal water pressure "overpressurizing" the fire suppression water sprinkler system.
Yes, the "sprinklers" in the video refer to lawn water sprinklers. For the fire suppression water sprinkler system, as far as I know, the maximum pressure is 175 psi. As long as the municipal water pressure is below 175 psi, you do not need to worry about it, I think.
@@happydiytime Thank you. Yes, I came across that 175 psi number in several sources, too.
Good job
Hi, will channel locks work instead of pipe wrenches?
The channel locks should also work very well for this purpose as long as it has sufficient jaw capacity. The jaw capacity of my channel locks is not large enough to clamp the union connectors and the body of pressure reducing valve. So I used pipe wrenches in this work.
Looks like you forgot the old top gasket
Thanks for your comment. The old top gasket was installed back 13:58-14:05. The package of the new pressure reducing valve includes one new gasket. The old bottom gasket was replaced with the new gasket. If possible, it is better to replace the old top gasket with a new one as well.
@@happydiytime ok I saw removal where top gasket stayed
You forgot to use Teflon tape.
The union connection is sealed by the rubber gasket. In this case, I think, the teflon tape is not needed.