Water pressure on the downstream side of the valve pushes up on the diaphragm, when a pressure drop, such as a running faucet occurs, the psi drops and the diaphragm pushes down on the plunger, which opens the valve seat below allowing water to flow through until set pressure is reached, at this pressure there is sufficient force on the diaphragm to push it up and allow the valve to close. -Thats my understanding of it at least
Over 60psi is not bad. Between 60-80psi is fine. Also, you can buy a rebuild kit for these valves which makes is a lot easier than removing the entire assembly and lower cost!
Safety relief valve technician here good job that's basically how all safety valves work the screw u adjust tech name is the compression screw.. For future reference anyways u did good for ur first time better than some idiots I know that's worked on valves for years only o e thing I seen that would get rejected always lube those o rings son always.. Lol
Hope you can help/Short story long/ I have a 1960 ranch, original boiler that works greatAnd hardly any components/Lived in the house for 10 year so far/The first year we lived there there was a main break /After that the. PRV on boiler Goes off at 30 psi and of course the relief valve releases/I have one of those old-fashioned in the rafters expansion Tanks./// my question is the cause of the PSA rising the pressure reducing valve or the expansion tank is waterlogged and how do I check which one it?
I replaced my PRV and all went well; except when the washing machine was running water the pipes (under the house) were shaking around and I could hear the valve pulsating. Funny thing is that the pulsating and pipes shook only when the washing machine was on. With the washing machine off, I turned on all faucets and tub and shower and had no pipe vibration at all. I think the problem is with the washing machine. Do you think there's anything I may have done to cause this problem? Or maybe the PRV is bad?
I installed the 1" and the 3/4" version of this reducing valve and with both of them I'm getting tons of vibration while water flows. Its wicked noisy. I have the pressure set to 50psi on the dot. I have my expansion tank set to 50psi as well and i added air when no watwr was in the tank. Any ideas why the vibration is occuring? If i move the meter and reducing valve around while water flows i can get the sound to stop momentarily.
Hmm...no I dont have any experience with that. Maybe wedging/bracing the pipe and also adjusting the water pressure. Let us know if you solve the problem and how if you can. I'm curious. Maybe try slightly closing the whole house valve? It seems like there's some turbulent waterflow in your pipes somehow. do you have galvanized pipes? They tend to corrode on the inside and can mess with flow and pressure.?
The sound I’m hearing in my pipes is a lot like that but at a slower frequency. I CANNOT find a PRV in the house and neither have 2 professional plumbers been able to. I’m not sure if it’s buried in the walls or what. Any tips?
Hmmm. Interesting. The PRV is the first thing when it enters the house, so trace everything as far back as you can. I believe that some houses do not have them, especially if your city pressure isn't too high. I'm not sure, but I assume some tropical or warmer regions would have them outside if it never freezes. Maybe check on that. Maybe you could look into waterhammer, which is a separate issue and makes noise in the pipes. Also, Sometimes pipes can move if brackets are loose or broken and do funny things. Maybe someone else can chime in on a better solution, that's just what I come up with on the top of my head
My house is fed off of a 8” main that feeds a water tower. 125psi in it. I guess my LF has broken cause I have 110psi in my house. Showers are glorious though.
Water pressure on the downstream side of the valve pushes up on the diaphragm, when a pressure drop, such as a running faucet occurs, the psi drops and the diaphragm pushes down on the plunger, which opens the valve seat below allowing water to flow through until set pressure is reached, at this pressure there is sufficient force on the diaphragm to push it up and allow the valve to close. -Thats my understanding of it at least
Yes, thank you, that’s how I understand it too. Thanks for explaining it better
Excellent video as I never knew how those valves worked! Happy Holidays! 👍👍🌲🌲
thanks for watching! it's neat how they work. happy Holidays to you too!
Thank you, this is so informative and well presented. Not too slow, not to fast. Every step is covered, even the clean up is great!
Thank you! Glad you liked it 👍🏼
This is quality content. I mean when you cut open the valve to explain how it is put together, Bravo 👏
I appreciate that! Thank you
great info
Thanks! Glad it helped. Thanks for the $2!!!
Thx for this video. Is there a trick for removing the top portion that is threaded into the PRV - not budging at all?
Over 60psi is not bad. Between 60-80psi is fine. Also, you can buy a rebuild kit for these valves which makes is a lot easier than removing the entire assembly and lower cost!
Thanks for the tip. Where do you pick one of those kits up at?
@@HandymanHertz Any supply house or Amazon.
Great video!! Very informative! I like swish swish swish for the description of the sound of the faulty regulator!!😆
Haha thank you! I told them that they should keep it, that it’s actually soothing!
Safety relief valve technician here good job that's basically how all safety valves work the screw u adjust tech name is the compression screw.. For future reference anyways u did good for ur first time better than some idiots I know that's worked on valves for years only o e thing I seen that would get rejected always lube those o rings son always.. Lol
Thanks for the tip, but lube what rings exactly?
Someone quoted me $1500 to do this. Took me 2 hours. Best money I've ever saved.
Hope you can help/Short story long/ I have a 1960 ranch, original boiler that works greatAnd hardly any components/Lived in the house for 10 year so far/The first year we lived there there was a main break /After that the. PRV on boiler Goes off at 30 psi and of course the relief valve releases/I have one of those old-fashioned in the rafters expansion Tanks./// my question is the cause of the PSA rising the pressure reducing valve or the expansion tank is waterlogged and how do I check which one it?
I do not know the first thing about boilers, sorry.
I replaced my PRV and all went well; except when the washing machine was running water the pipes (under the house) were shaking around and I could hear the valve pulsating. Funny thing is that the pulsating and pipes shook only when the washing machine was on. With the washing machine off, I turned on all faucets and tub and shower and had no pipe vibration at all. I think the problem is with the washing machine. Do you think there's anything I may have done to cause this problem? Or maybe the PRV is bad?
I installed the 1" and the 3/4" version of this reducing valve and with both of them I'm getting tons of vibration while water flows. Its wicked noisy. I have the pressure set to 50psi on the dot. I have my expansion tank set to 50psi as well and i added air when no watwr was in the tank. Any ideas why the vibration is occuring? If i move the meter and reducing valve around while water flows i can get the sound to stop momentarily.
Hmm...no I dont have any experience with that. Maybe wedging/bracing the pipe and also adjusting the water pressure. Let us know if you solve the problem and how if you can. I'm curious. Maybe try slightly closing the whole house valve? It seems like there's some turbulent waterflow in your pipes somehow. do you have galvanized pipes? They tend to corrode on the inside and can mess with flow and pressure.?
Did yours have the plastic sleeve on the adjustment screw? Mine does and do you just snug the lock nut against the plastic?
Is it possible for it to make a vibrating noise even will all water flow is off?
Hmmm... I'm not sure but I'd lean towards no. Waterhammer is another issue but that's when water is running.
man that is a great video. Thank you.
The sound I’m hearing in my pipes is a lot like that but at a slower frequency. I CANNOT find a PRV in the house and neither have 2 professional plumbers been able to. I’m not sure if it’s buried in the walls or what. Any tips?
Hmmm. Interesting. The PRV is the first thing when it enters the house, so trace everything as far back as you can. I believe that some houses do not have them, especially if your city pressure isn't too high. I'm not sure, but I assume some tropical or warmer regions would have them outside if it never freezes. Maybe check on that. Maybe you could look into waterhammer, which is a separate issue and makes noise in the pipes. Also, Sometimes pipes can move if brackets are loose or broken and do funny things.
Maybe someone else can chime in on a better solution, that's just what I come up with on the top of my head
I used to install city water meter and boxes, we often found the PRV just downstream from the meter! Hoping this is your case!
What brand are those channel lock pliers?
I think they are Knipex. I was using my buddies.
@@HandymanHertz Knipex... thxs.. Found them, they're called a "pliers wrench."
I am confused. At 0:50 when you describe how to remove the bottom union nut you say turn it counter-clockwise, but you are turning it clockwise.
I think you should watch it again. It also depends which way you're looking at it.
@@HandymanHertz The blue pipe wrench. The handle is pointing towards 5 O'clock and end at 7 O' clock.
I think it is clockwise looking from top down, but counterclockwise relative to this end of the regulator. Which way is right? May be both.
Mine is the pressure is too low that makes the sound. I just got it replaced by a plumber. PSI between 40 and 80 is good.
My house is fed off of a 8” main that feeds a water tower. 125psi in it. I guess my LF has broken cause I have 110psi in my house. Showers are glorious though.
Thanks man you saved me $400
Hey, You're welcome! Feel free to drop a "super thanks" if you feel up for it.
If you drain water heater ,, turn off power to it at the circuit breaker. The heating element can burn up with nonwater
True. Or turn it to pilot if it's gas.
How activate beast mode in Handyman Hertz. Just say “do you want me to find a cheater bar” 😂
😂 I’m either too stubborn or too lazy to get a cheater bar. Thanks for the laugh.
That water regulator looks like it was installed in the 30's
I believe their home was built in the mid 2000’s.