What Should My Engine COOLANT Temperature Be?
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- Опубліковано 30 чер 2024
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Most people don't give engine coolant temperature much thought until the engine has overheated and potentially been damaged.
However, there is a bit to understand about what range of temperature you should ideally target, and this will vary depending on the application. In this webinar, we'll cover what you need to know.
This is just 1 of over 300 lessons on a HUGE range of topics that HPA Gold Members have access to.
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TIME STAMPS:
0:00 - Introduction
1:38 - Why do we need to worry about it?
4:49 - Effects of coolant temperature on engines
7:16 - Typical temperature range
7:59 - NASCAR example
9:58 - Setting clearances at room temp vs operating temp
13:38 - Frictional losses
15:16 - Thermal losses
16:30 - Must avoid boiling the coolant
20:58 - Material suitability and reliability
23:02 - Effect of coolant temperature on clearances
27:37 - Achieving target temperature
33:59 - Choosing target temperature
35:23 - SR86 protection strategies
41:55 - Coolant types
42:45 - Questions
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TAGS:
#highperformanceacademy #coolant #enginetemps #temperature #enginebuild #engine #build #racing #learntotune #enginebuilding101 #dontletthesmokeout #wiring101 #dieseltuning #datanerd #gofasterwithdata #racecraft #learndriveoptimise #motorsport #buildtunedrive - Авто та транспорт
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TIME STAMPS:
0:00 - Introduction
1:38 - Why do we need to worry about it?
4:49 - Effects of coolant temperature on engines
7:16 - Typical temperature range
7:59 - NASCAR example
9:58 - Setting clearances at room temp vs operating temp
13:38 - Frictional losses
15:16 - Thermal losses
16:30 - Must avoid boiling the coolant
20:58 - Material suitability and reliability
23:02 - Effect of coolant temperature on clearances
27:37 - Achieving target temperature
33:59 - Choosing target temperature
35:23 - SR86 protection strategies
41:55 - Coolant types
42:45 - Questions
Andre's sweet spot 80C-90C 176F-194F
Doesn't like going over 100C 212F
34:00
Legend
true... but depends on engine too or ssytem,, but in that range will work opk. not more or less.
Thank you sir, God Bless.
Thanks, i was finding this part of the video.
We need an oil temp video 😎 the pros and cons
💯great topic Andre and as always very informative and for a diy car guy who loves all the tech stuff it’s great 😊
Glad you enjoyed it
wow this is almost exactly what i needed after trying to figure out my new golf setup
What does this have to do with playing golf? 😂
@@LTVoyager MK1 Golf on ITBS to be clear 😂😂
Love to see a video of engine oil temperatures on track
I second that!
Same as street oil temps. 90 - 100C degrees is good. 105 pushing it. 110+ either means it needs a cooler if it doesn't have one, or it's getting too hot period. That goes for most, from engine oil to trans, to diff.
@@dons1932 100-110C engine oil temps are perfectly acceptable temperatures in a high performance application. Going over 120, or even 130 is where you should start to worry.
Just make sure you got high performance oil. Not your oldschool dyno juice
One thing I'll say about fans. They can be effective at much higher speeds than I would have thought, assuming they are designed to do so (fan pitch and RPM, etc). When I'm not hooning around in my Miata, my day job involves charging up and down Pacific Northwest mountain passes in a semi truck. Fully loaded, you might get down to 30 or even 20 miles per hour, and understandably, the fan is very necessary, even in sub-freezing ambient temperatures. However, flat-out is flat-out, so even if you're unloaded and making 55mph, on a reasonably warm day, the coolant can get up hot enough to trigger the fan to come on. I'm still amazed to see the coolant temperatures promptly plummet as soon as that enormous clutch fan kicks in. Even more impressive is when you get the fan kick on going DOWN the hill at 55, because it turns out that the Jake Brake at redline with 40psi of boost makes just as much heat as the fuel. WILD.
I did not know Semis go into boost during Jake brake? Fascinating..my Dad is a trucker..be safe out there man thank you for what you do!
@jaynikk758 Yeah, it's neat. The Jake opens the exhaust valves near peak compression, which dumps a ton of heat and pressure into the exhaust. That spins up the turbo, putting more air into the engine, meaning more heat, more pressure, and more turbo. The heat and pressure are the energy you're trying to get rid of from the hill. The Jake brake makes more power than the fuel does, just with the torque in the opposite direction. It's really cool.
I race a time attack c7 z06. Car known for getting hot due mainly to lack of frontal area, supercharger heat exchanger location, and of course lots of power. What I did was slightly increase radiator size, install 175 f thermostat, and most importantly I relocated the supercharger heat exchanger to the sides like a c7 zr1. Using the lg cooling kit to relocate. Another thing I did which helps a lot was remove the factory underhood duct and add a proper large hood vent. This car can now run at full pace until out of fuel even on a hot day. Draw backs are added a little weight, increased front drag quite a bit. The increase in drag has been a bit if a bummer for me. At 155 it feel like a parachute. To try and correct this, I've started adding febder vents. Guess my whole point is cooling for some cars is absolutely necessary if you plan to race competitive. For track days, it would probably be okay stock cause it's a 2019 and manual, so best year for cooling and better trans for cooling. Extra cooling usually adds extra drag, though so very important not to overdo it.
Cool.
Look up radiator ducting on WW2 aircraft. That's where it was discovered. The surface area of the inlet, the grill, should be 1/3 the surface area of the Radiator. The exhaust vent in the hood should be roughly 1/3 the size of radiator, and slightly smaller than the grill inlet. The ducting should be airtight, smooth, and have as gradual of curves as possible to promote laminar flow. Ideally, the Radiator is canted slightly forward.
The idea is that the air enters and exits at high velocity and low pressure. At the Radiator, the duct is 3 times bigger, so the airflow slows down and the static pressure rises. The result is more airflow through the Radiator, and less drag from the inlet.
Yeah and one of my clients actually has a c7 Stingray that we did a supercharger from a Z06 swap onto. He's got a mishimoto radiator running E85 about a 50% mixture, x-pipe, full catless exhaust, long tube headers, the supercharger is ported, and he's using a katech throttle body or however it spelled that measures I believe 103. And yeah we had heat issues just being out in the street. No joke. What we ended up doing to help with a supercharger flow is actually reversing the flow of the intercooler pump so that the water flows in a much more solid fashion with the low pressure side being fed pressurized water instead of having to siphon off water from the reservoir. I read about this on a bunch of forms and that seemed to make a huge difference as well. I also dropped his radiator fan temperature down to 195 I think in order to just kick them on earlier which it should be on all the time when he's going to be out there racing but that actually ended up keeping a lot of the temperature in check and given the fact that his intercooler for the supercharger or rather his heat exchanger sits right in the very front of it unobstructed as long as he's moving he doesn't seem to have a problem but we're still thinking about installing fans on the backside of it really just some basic computer fans on the back of it on a nice bracket in order to help pull air through it all the time even if he's sitting at a stop
For the record I tune cars for a living and that's why I have the little bit of insight on that night has felt like I would share with you guys
Thanks for sharing your valuable experience.
Run my LS between 88 and 90 Celsius and the needle is in the same place as when it used to run at 102, you are spot on!
in the middle is the virtue
This is a really good question
NASCAR engines wise, I don't think they don't have to shed a large amount of heat since they are running hotter, the amount is arguably similar, but the rejected heat for the same sized heat exchanger is larger because of a significantly larger delta in temperature between coolant and ambient temperature.
Yup, heat exchange gets much more efficient at higher deltas, so you don't need to increase drag as much for a given amount of heat produced. I'd think the exhaust charge would retain more heat as well, given that the engine vs exhaust is a lower delta which would mean higher exhaust gas velocity and the radiator would need to shed less heat as well. Really a very cool bit of engineering (pun not intended).
Didn't finish the thought about EGV tho, higher EGV is probably used with header tuning and cam tuning to improve scavenging and efficiency at a desired RPM, which is very neat.
I have been asking my self this question for years on my FC rx7
Very good video👍🏻
Thank you! Cheers!
What about a conical piston ring? instead of straight round the piston have them cross over above each other? unlike gapless rings and the cross over in seperate paths. You’d have too channel ring channel around the piston in a thread like design…
Just a note to the delta temperature. My Classic E-Type V12 has 83 degree C Thermastats and the return to system hose has a sensor for the fans to kick in if the return temp is higher than 70 degrees.
Hope that info helps a little.
A good part of it is because older cars doesn't use a temp sensor, but a temp on-off switch. The ECU has zero control over the rad fans, so that temp switch would turn on the fan when the inlet temps are high enough to trigger. Modern applications uses a single coolant sensor for everything to save on parts and wiring.
@@patx35
Hi Pat, the V12 has a dual cooling system and on mine each side has a Bosch Pressure Temperatur Sensor plus a TempSensor (maybe a Switch) in the hose from Radiator back to the waterpump. Since both Temp sensors are placed prior to the Thermostat they are useless for fan control because if the thermostats don’t open I get an overheat condition but the fan would cool the radiator which at that time is not flowing any coolant, but if the return to system line is hot it means that the radiator is not cooling enough and the fans kick in. I think it is a good system.
As an engineer for various performance cars in the industry your temps can’t be applied. Tolerances and design along with emission is why we have them run hotter.
Excellent presentation - IIRC*, F1 engines run around 130C and 4 bar water pressure, for exactly the reasons you mentioned.
*Might be wrong, wouldn't be the first time.
Grumpy Jenkins kept his Pro Stock engines close to boiling because they made the most power there. It is just too complicated to preheat engines so now every drag engine is built and tuned to work cold.
Not shure if gareth is reading this but usually coolant flow in any water cooled system(Cars, Industry even Water cooled PCs) is so fast that the coolant has almost the same temperature anywhere in the system. We are talking single degree differences here.
The only way you would see a noitceable delta across the radiator is if the flow rate is quite low which I assume would also lead to problems in the engine.
Great point. To clarify, the delta T across the radiator is actually quite drastic most of the time since the thermostat is usually blocking most of the coolant flow through the radiator to keep the coolant temperature in the proper range, but with no thermostat or a fully open thermostat, the flow rate will be high enough that the delta T will normally be fairly low.
@@averyalexander2303 thank you, didn't think of that!
While we are at it. Are there any good dyno fans that speed up when client car heats up?
I also recommend people here to study thermodynamics.
82c 180f coolant temp and engine oil to be no higher than 12% of Coolant! This is for best wear/power and engine oil design 💯👍🏼
Interesting topic for me, like all bmw owner I had concern about the high coolant and oil temp. From stock 103 Celsius and 118 Celsius respectively. I lower coolant to 83 to 90 and oil thermostat open from 93 Celsius. I think is the best trade off for the N55 engine
You removed your thermostat?
@@MotorSportsbrthe coolant thermostat is controlled by the ecu, fir the oil I installed a real thermostat the Mosselmann 😉
The 351w v8 in my van shown 220F recently 🤷🏽♂
I'm surprised you didn't mention the coolant temp target differences between E85 and gasoline.
I raise temps with E85 for good reason
Care to explain?
@@captin2284 E85 requires a richer mixture than regular gasoline, meaning more fuel volume. This extra fueling has a cooling effect on the engine. An engine on E85 takes longer to reach operating temperature as a result. Moisture is a byproduct of this combustion. E85 It creates lots of additional moisture and fuel vapor that can accumulate in the oil and crankcase. If the engine doesn't reach a temp high enough and long for this moisture/vapor to flash off, your engine will fail very quickly due to fuel and moisture contamination in the oil.
All of these things need to be accounted for when designing a cooling system.
@@XcoolcoolbeansbeansX Agreed. I ensure when using E85, the oil temperature reaches at least 85c for a while before shutting off the engine, in order to evaporate any water in the oil whilst also avoiding short trips. Change oil more frequently too.
@@captin2284
On E, the hotter the coolant temps the more fuel the engine consumes and the more power it makes. I'll run a car back to back on the dyno and and the hotter it gets the more power it makes and more fuel it wants. I'll cool it down and run it again and it's back to less power and fuel.
85E engine , needs a more compression engine- they made for gas initially so is better increase its temperature..more compression increse temperature
its a crimne,, to add E85, in and engine that has a compression for gasolne..
yous hould only burn gasoline or just alchool for better engine efficiency
When explaining the NASCAR choice of temperature I was almost expecting the reason to be net thrust.
Net thrust?
@@coreyw427duct your radiator appropriately and travel fast enough (generally it's more of an aircraft thing) and you can get a small amount of thrust (or atleast offset the drag of the radiator) it's called the Meredith effect
@@hannahranga watch out the engine temp
What about coolant temperature jumping from 78-88? My fan is set at 85, but temp gies up to 88 and then cools to 78, then fan shuts off.
19:43 Andre, I think ou need to add some more detail to this comment regarding waterless coolant ' having properties to improve heat transfer'. Most of the brands I've looked at, or are popular, are 98ish percent glycol based. As you mentioned, glycol is nowhere near as efficient as water at transferring heat, either at taking it up or giving it away again. Sure, the waterless coolant won't boil, but it will run hotter than factory filled coolant and water. Im told OE truck engine suppliers often need to adjust fan switch on/off points when waterless coolant is added to avoid the fan systems remaining on using use.
I was wondering about that too. I'm only aware of one brand of waterless coolant and it's definitely less efficient at transferring heat than water or a water/coolant mix. My solution is to use only as much coolant as I need, which is around 30% coolant and 70% distilled water. Nissan actually recommends a 30/70 ratio for their GTR for "performance driving" in above 0 degree F weather.
@@averyalexander2303
I'm an old mechanic, I've used Nissan coolant in everything I've owned since the 80s.
It's cheap, readily available and works.
Never any corrosion or heating issues in my road cars, utes, rally cars or dirt bikes 🙂
I looked hard at waterless coolant for the company I work in Underground hard rock mining. We didn't end up using it for the reasons above as all our gear is bought new and under warranty for each project we go to.
Another reason was fire risk.
One thing many people don't realise is that ethylene glycol is actually flammable at fairly low temperatures, soaked into things like turbo lagging, the water boils off and you can have a fairly aggressive fire.
@@Danger_mouse I've used Prestone universal coolant in everything for years with no problems either. From my experience, changing the coolant regularly and not mixing incompatible coolants or adding things that shouldn't be in the system such as stop leak is far more important than the specific brand.
As for the flammability of the coolant, that's a valid concern. I've tested the flammability of a standard 50/50 mix and straight coolant relatively extensively and haven't been able to ignite either other than by boiling it in a dish until most of the water is gone and then holding an open flame to it. It wouldn't ignite when sprayed on a red hot surface or boiled without an open flame, presumably since its autoignition temperature is 250+ degrees above its boiling point. For what it's worth, Evans claims that their waterless coolant is no more of a fire risk than regular water based coolant, but I can't say whether it is or not since I haven't been able to ignite either without boiling it and then using an open flame.
@@averyalexander2303
On the flammability side, yes, you need to have a situation where the water boils away.
One specific machine we have used to have the coolant header tank directly above the turbo.
The header would leak from a vent hose port sometimes and into the turbo lagging where it could soak in.
We've since moved to ceramic coating the turbo instead of lagging and relocate the header during the site set up.
All the best.
@@Danger_mouse At least from my testing, it seems like there would have to be a scenario where concentrated coolant (either undiluted coolant or a mix where most of the water boiled off) is heated to its flash point on a hot surface and then ignited by an external source such as an open flame or maybe a sufficiently strong spark. I have read that coolant can be ignited by a hot surface alone, but I haven't been able to reproduce that with my testing methods. That's not to say it's impossible, just that I haven't been able to do it despite many tries.
Great video, do you have one of these vids on what oil temp we should be aiming for?
Engine master just did a video on oil viscosity, you can get some info from that one. Ideally oil is rated at 212 degrees Fahrenheit for the 2nd number in the weight. Under 100 degree weather I will get temps up to 225-228 at cruising. On day 100+ I will get temps up too 250 at cruising. The temperature will also effect the pressure.
@isidrosevier it's OK to link such material in your comment/s too, we don't mind. 'More creates more' when it comes to quality sources of knowledge - Taz.
We don't, just this really quick rundown here sorry aside from where it pops up in some other webinars in passing on sumps and oil supply improvements etc - Taz.
www.hpacademy.com/technical-articles/what-should-my-oil-temp-be/?
@@hpa101 cheers….might be an idea for a new video then 😀
95 degrees C is perfect for oil. 100 is fine. 105 is OK. But not hotter than 110.
Run it as hot as it can safely go and that comes down to machining and material choices. Oil temps should be kept right above water boiling point to drive out moisture. Air temps should be as cold as possible.
Thats ok i suck at converting Fahrenheit to Celsius. 😉
ive noticed that my car is runing stable 81C
but when my temp switch stopped working and fan didnt turn on ect reached over 100C
the trick is ive noticed that around 90C my AFR is getting leaner
i had ECT correction table set up so between 75-95 degrees there would be no fuel trim added but turns out at around 90C i need to add about 6% fuel trim to just maintain AFR
is there a chance my engine just makes more power when its hotter? because of clearences or something?
because one thing i really have trouble with i tuned the car AFR is consistent and there are days the car just RIPS you can feel everysingle of these 150 horses doing their best
and other days i will feel like it weights 2000kg and just wont accelerate
I have my coolant system to sit at 180*F at all times no matter what the ambient temp is and trans temp is about 20* cooler than engine temp
problem in engine is not cold is hot..
you can fukitup with often hot temperatures , engine ehad dont like it..
Great video, and very relevant to my current situation. My Audi TT is running at around 60C, as apposed to close to 90C. I’m guessing my thermostat is stuck open.
That is far from ideal, i'd get that fixed asap.
Replace with a good thermostat that fails safe like the one it seems to have now. Better to waste some gas and burn some oil that overheat and get stuck somewhere, or even worse.. blow the engine. That's usually the difference between the $10 thermostats and the $25-$50 ones.
I have a MK1 TT 1.8 sport (FWD, auto 6 speed with the same Quattro 1.8T engine setup, 222hp). Amazingly fun car, and i drove a 400hp Turbo Supra for 7 years. I was very surprised by the handling, after a front suspension overhaul. Like new or better with quality OE parts that looked to be better than original. Super snug bushings and thicker sway bar links, virtually no body roll and and switches directions on a dime.
beeter go to a mechnic,, maybe not a thermostat problem but other problemm,
sweet spot
82-90 Cº
Another great video full of detail, thank you HPA! On a sidenote, Andre looks to have lost a lot of weight in the face? Hope all is well!
he looks more ripped! been pumping those manifolds
Glad you enjoyed this one, cheers mate! Yes, Andre lost a bit of weight but for good reasons. He cut out alcohol and sugar (as much as practical) from his diet and upped his exercise routine, not that he's ever really been the type of guy to spend his evenings eating cakes at the local pub anyway though.
He's just doing it for the challenge rather than training for anything I think. Makes me feel like a lazy bugger by comparison that's for sure 😅 - Taz.
@@hpa101 Haha! That's great to hear :) Funnily enough 3 months for me with the same challenge. Keep up the great work team!
This was the first thing I thought eatching this video as well. Glad it's just a diet change.
Congruence.["1. Hi guys and gals, so at 19 minutes give or take I felt I need to basically repeat and agree that there is a half of dozen or more variables to take in count when diagnosing and researching with various means of control. I found this interesting and important to always keep in mind from getting better performance out of the 4 speed auto transmission of the late 90s early thousands VW 1.8 TURBO Golf like the GTX and so on where they are using the engine cooling system to regulate the transmission temperatures while no extra radiator or auto transmission fluid radiator/cooler like on v8 autos and heavy/high temperature environments and whether poor design more likely in my opinion as we know turbochargers generate higher temperatures in standard conditions therefore adding cooling supporting mods will be a standard for those in the know, this is due to economy and keeping a fair price on the Golfs and using the 4 speed auto transmission that is good for 300 Kw. So cheers for sharing with us this knowledge as it is highly valued by people in the know as cooling management can prove to be difficult when there are factors not taken in count so the practicality aspect of this knowledge should be know better as is more commonly needed than that of the people initially believe the need and demand for parts and support is.
2. Another thing that needs mentioning on the engineering design challenges we face, I am sure we can come up with new engine designs other than the piston cylinder hydrocarbon 'dragons' we love, if more efficient scientific formulas or experimental design stumbles over better efficiency. If we look at the industry as Kilowatt generating machines as they are the only ethical slaves and forget about letting the machines scavenge energy as that is a major flaw in the fundamental design such as using converters as so called engines in the electric cars as where only the new rotary mazda generates its own kilowatts, the full electric vehicle's electric engines if you can call it that, are energy consumers and 100% liability to a honest communicating power grid. with less obvious consumables the incentive for economy goes away as a battery does not go up in weight or volume as it changes its capacity. Sorry to go on a rant but I felt my rant is somewhat a duty of care as a world citizen should I call it as the access to web is the new business travel heheheh. Transport for business and travel for private conveyances so lets support oil industry and channel the force to stop the natural curing CO2 from the natural unstoppable evaporation of water by the sun ever since they got married heheheh. Cheers folks and techs at HP Academy. So if they say till infinity and beyond, we say till we beneficially and positively generate and store hydrogen as a unit fuel tank. 3. Proud to see a good 'Kiwi' man such as Andre on the mic and moving picture as well as many other performances I presume. Cheers and looking forward to the good knowledge sharing of data and studies that count, science is so rewarding and therapeutic compared to pseudo social sciences. Much respect, and all the best from the south island here where I know a lot of 'kiwis' are in Oz, don't forget New Zealand is the size of British Isles and Romania so we need the best people that know New Zealand to be able to market here too so come and visit to keep some local status and help the communities with promoting tried and tested markets like the metal industries that have not gone out of fashion for tenths of thousands of years."]: Conveyance in good faith and confidence by this author: ["Dan"]-bogdan-saris: Cucu..©. (If people want to inspire from my rants you are welcome, be correct and do not presume other ability in other or greater ability in people or companies is not a definite and direct result in rising competition. There is such thing as co-operation for basic function of community and some dominions are obsolescent.) Cheers and Congruence.
I’m thinking my cold running temp, could be over fuelling as I only got 390km for a full tank, city driving. Previously it was closer to 500km.
Question: could a bad or dirty MAF sensor cause my engine to run cool?
No it wont, but a dirty maf could cause the car to run rough though since temp affects air density/volume which a dirty maf wont be able to read accurately and will cause the car to use more or less fuel as the maf trys to adjust. Either or can affect mpg badly. If your car is running to cold then continue to replace ur coolant every 6 months like ur suppose to and put a new thermostat in the car. Sounds like it is stuck open. You can get different temp ones, if the car is not a track car then get an OEM temp rated thermostat
AFAIK, the main concern with running too cool (but not too cool to affect clearances i.e. piston slap) is blowby of water and unburnt fuel getting into the lower part of the engine.
The oil needs to be hot enough to cook off these contaminants or a whole host of probelms will develop.
This problem is exacerbated by short trips and cold environments.
I have a FC Rx7 grip car I've been learning to build/drive with. I have a solid cooling system, but have not added ducting or under trays to make sure the air passes where I need. I have a large multipass radiator and large fan. I'm able to pwm my e-water pump, but not my fan. If my Fueltech has the ability to do so would you recommend having the fan turn off at speeds above let's say 40mph? While on track or is it not worth the on and off electrical load? Max temps I've seen on track are 210 F = 99 C
210 is normal operating temp but those rotary engines do overheat alot
@@DylanL69 yea, I am really wanting to make some ducting or something. My system should be more than capable of keeping the temps down
@@dubbleA100 the rotors get hot and transfer heat around the engine so there's nothing you can do about that but just keep as cool as possible
My rx7 fc runs around 180f and pushes 195 when doing long 4th and 5th gear pulls. I have an efan controlled by the haltech and a factory thermostat in place. In my setup the efan will come on regardless of speed if there is not enough air coming through the radiator ie temps up.
I also think it assists with engine bay airflow/temp
What efan are you using?
One thing I would have liked you to address is whether glycol coolant is flammable. For example in the SCTA-BNI rulebook which covers land speed racing at Bonneville and other venues, this states that combustible or flammable coolants are strictly prohibited. This also applied at DLRA rules where you can find the phrase "all glycol-based coolants are banned". What are the recommendations for those events?
just water
Distilled water. Most coolant additives are just there to prevent freezing, which isn't an issue at Bonneville, and also to prevent corrosion.
(That said, if you're storing your land speed car somewhere it freezes in winter, leaving it with a coolant system full of distilled water may cause you problems, so keep that in mind.)
It's not banned in racing for flammability, it's banned because it's SLICK in the case of a leak - about as slippery as actual oil spills.
Absolutely DO NOT run distilled water as someone suggested or you will destroy your cooling system. Distilled water is for topping up glycol based coolant systems.
What you need to use is DE-IONISED water, with wetting agents added. It's what most glycol-free, race coolants are. Essentially what it is, is treated water with no corrosive minerals, and wetting agents that help it stick to metal to actually take the heat out. VP Racing do a brilliant range of them, with or without anti freeze. If you run the anti-freeze version, you'll run a bit hotter. If you take that out, the other version of coolant will cool better.
@@dons1932 hey, thanks for the correction. I'm glad someone who knows more than me chimed in.
Heat = HP "David Vizard"
I tried running e85 in my car, I got half the fuel mileage because of my cold thermostat, great power though
and becasue your engine compression is not suitable for alchool but gasoline, so it less efficient..
had hot air to intake...if you rellay need burnt E85.
and your thermsota is colda.. cold therms are not good how much tempt??
@@anteneupitra It's supercharged. Pretty much maxed from the factory. It likes to have knock retard
If you want to keep a cylinder head on your race engine
Use Redline Water wetter 3/4 bottle to most 4 cylinder cars and about 1 litre of green antifreeze
The molecule size of Water Wetter fills in the gaps where water touch’s the surface
This in turn will cool better stop cracking head’s especially on av gas and any other hot race gas
Our Aussie touring car would spit heads out every yr on water ir water and antifreeze
Add Redline and you’re laughing
No
I’m not paid by this company
But I worked 10 yrs in the USA in NASCAR ,Trans Am and SCCA Pro
I use penrite racing coolant. I do believe it has a water wetter addittive to it, and since it is super concetrated you can use 1L of it for up to 20L of water
just clean it and add good coolant like a normal car.
> 0 C is ideal
I know you're kidding, but you can actually damage your engine by running it too cold as well.
Intake charge temps are a different ball game however 😎 - Taz
Nascar runs high temps for a reason you never mentioned. Temperature differential. It has little to do with aero and they did this when the cars had terrible aero as well...... The 130 F degrees in clean air and much higher in the draft make cooling a severe problem at normal passenger car temps. With passenger car temps you would have as little as a 40 degree temp differential, which would never remove 900+hp of heat. There wouldn't be enough heat transfer with the grill wide open. But, a 160~ish degree difference can be cooled very easily..... They also run high cooling system pressures to stop the water from boiling in the system. 1 psi raises the boiling point 3 degrees F. Technically you need a minimum of around 50 psi to stop perking in a Nascar cooling system from boiling at the top of the cylinders. But the rules limit it to a 33 psi cap and water in the cooling system.....
That temperature differential is the real reason that the aero gets better, too. It's not that they're rejecting less heat - if they were, that'd mean a bunch extra energy going somewhere else, like the wheels. But if the coolant and therefore the radiator is hot, then you can reject more energy with the same airflow, or reject the same energy with less airflow.
This is how air-cooled engines managed to function at all with like 1/10th the heat exchanger area of a radiator. An air-cooled motorcycle hangs out at around 450 degrees F, allowing those little fins on a Harley to exchange as much heat energy as a Honda Accord's radiator. All the clearances and things are simply designed to deal with that temperature. 20W-50 in an air-cooled bike runs thin like gas.
I was basically going to say the same thing. Didn't know they ran higher temps but I would think it's more about having a higher efficiency due to the temperature difference gradient. They're able to get rid of more heat for the given radiator size. I can see it having multiple advantages like weight savings and being able to have better aerodynamics, maybe better thermal efficiency of the engine itself.