How to make a window seat with storage Part2
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- Hi everybody, we’re continuing with our mock-panelled window seat this week, and this video covers the process of installing the carcass and hinged seat, scribing the mock panelling to hide the inevitable gaps between the carcass and the wall, and ensuring we have a heavy duty storage solution that looks great and is built to last. Enjoy!
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Blum hinges - amzn.to/2oOiiYG (US: amzn.to/2oOodgt)
Hinge drilling guide - amzn.to/2oYBHqk
Self-centering drill bit - amzn.to/2pVQ6kl (US: amzn.to/2oZ7Fmq)
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Heavy duty groover - goo.gl/Ht1TU4
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Panel raising bit - goo.gl/GceCdJ
Japanese folding pocket saw - goo.gl/DlcyPw
Spax MDF screws - amzn.to/2pj5FX5 (US: amzn.to/2oOh7Zu)
Spax screws - amzn.to/2oYWydc (US: amzn.to/2oOjkDT)
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Karrimor Supa 4 (not safety wear) - amzn.to/2oYYfHA
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Hi and thanks for the video. We learn the hard way when fitting these but what I do now is, when it's a lift top between walls like this, I have a permanent piece fixed and scribed to the wall on top, you can then have a nice clean even gap against your top on both sides, without interference. 👍
Old vid, but yes, that’s how I do them now. 👍👍
Love this video
Thanks for sharing! Lots of lessons here for sure. One thing I know was due to the wonky walls was the gap on the left there when the bench was closed. Learning from your trials and tribulations, I guess I’d probably but a small frame around the bench (1” or so on the sides to allow a scribe and allow there not to be a gap when closed. Thanks again! I love when people share installs and show the issues like this.
Thanks. Yes, with the benefit of hindsight inserting the lid may have been the better option, but tbh there’s a full-width cushion going over it so it won’t generally be seen. 👍
I feel your pain. I once had a similar problem standing up a heavy oak book case floor to ceiling. Love your work.
Thanks! 👍
Hi, nice you showed the prob when installing the seat makes me feel better as when I have made things and they don't fit right my wife says should have taken more time to cut it right 1st time I all so like the infills you put on each side of you builds makes a big difference to the finished job
Thank you
+joseph woodhouse My pleasure. Like everybody, I get things wrong all the time - it's about how you deal with that, and what you learn from it, that counts. 👍
a very small space to to move but looks fantastic i had one in my dining room when my kids they young was handy at the the time and they all come off when i did my kitchen and dining room bring a good memories enjoyed the video.
Thanks! 👍👍
Excelente video!
I fitted my first one recently confided myself when I had put the box in place how to fix the gap from end of carcass to wall, and as simple as it it I never thought of a small filler piece. Schoolboy error but won’t do it again put it that way this video is excellent
Old vid now, but thanks - good to hear it’s still useful! 👍
Ha! I felt for you when it wouldn't fit. I remember having to cut a very expensive custom wardrobe down the middle and stitch it back together so it wouldn't show when we couldn't get the cabinet through the doorway due to a low door and a narrow corridor. The sort of day you can't wait to get through.
Yep. Long day. 😕
Scribed ends to the lid would have a more pleasing look.......an inset lid (same size as the hinge piece at the rear) with the ends scribed to the uneven walls.
Hey...you live and learn.....
Good stuff in a tight spot.
Yep. As I said at the time, it's going to be upholstered so not the end of the world👍
Always something Peter, been there done that.😂 but the end result, a happy customer is the win. 👍
I think we all have, David! 😂 🤷♂️
Been there done that when it comes to fitting units.We all get there in the end with a bit of trimming .
Nice job,looks well.
Thanks. Old vid, it yeah, it was OK in the end. 👍
Nice video again Peter (just caught up with the build and installation). Had the same question re the gap to the left of the seat and it is really helpful that you take the time to come back to explain a potential solution and why in this case it is not a concern for the customer as I guess the cushion will just get compressed by the wonky wall when the lid is lifted. Keep up the good work! Terry.
T Radford Thank you! Always happy to answer any questions if I can. 👍
Great video peter, obsticles can be overcome, looks great sitting there,
Hi Peter its good to see its just not me that has problems with installation, great video keep up the good work
Nick Winfield Ha Ha, thanks! Problems are just solutions you haven't found yet - or something 😄
No envy from here, Peter. Those walls are all over the place. You can see it incredibly clearly when you're test fitting the lid. It's just impossible to make a neat fitting lid when you have to allow for knackered old walls. It's a shame more clients don't realise that. You'll often see stuff that looks a bit "off" being described as "crap". No, luv. It's not crap, your walls are crap and you're not paying me to fix them. Fix them first!
Mark Thomas Thanks! Occupational hazard working in old properties 👍👍
After seeing this video I had to have one of those Japanese folding saws. Wonderful tool. Super handy and super sharp. In fact the doctor who put 5 stitches in the back of my wrist last weekend commented on just how nice a cut it made :-). My fault. No-one but me to blame. As AvE says, 'always cut towards your chum and not your thumb'.
Ouch! Five stitches - you were really going for it! Good to hear it wasn’t any worse - and hate to think what you would have done with the keyhole blade 😱😬👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop thanks Peter. Could have been so much worse. It was right through all layers of skin but luckily no veins or tendons. The salutary lesson is don't let your guard down when you put the power tools down (which is what I did).
That’s good to hear there was no tendon damage, and an excellent point re power tools vs hand tools - both equally dangerous when you’re not concentrating. FWIW my worst injury occurred sharpening a kitchen knife. 🤷♂️😬👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop it's the most fun if you manage to cut yourself whilst chopping chillies.
Nice work 👍🏽
Just discovered your channel. Great videos!
FusionXLS Thanks! P
David Salembier o
Great vid, Peter. Hate to say it but I’ve been there and have done that! Scott
best video ever🤣😂
Thank you : )
great videos thanks! I wonder if this installation falls foul of building regs in terms of access/ egress as well as fire escape?
I was more thinking of impeding the stairway, i only mention it because i refused to put a cupboard in a similar place.
Can you use a piano hinge like the one you used if the top is 18mm MDF? I know screws don’t like MDF, or perhaps there is an alternative? Thanks !
Great video
Yea, absolutely. This build is MDF. 👍👍
No wonder you gave up site fitting Peter! It’s always the little jobs that take the most time!
Always! 😂👍
Wow, you handled that well...Now what are these folks going to do if they ever have to move furniture up and down this staircase? Would NOT want to be neighbor or son-in-law(or father-in-law, since I'm in my sixties,) and be called upon to "lend a hand, moving something..."
Enjoying your videos...rr
+Richard Rider Thanks! Yes, that potential 'issue' was pointed out to them, but they went ahead anyway... 👍
Do you have any details on the hinge for the lid? That is what I am struggling with how to do best.
It’s just regular ‘continuous’ or ‘piano’ hinge. Similar to this - amzn.to/40DgOPX 👍
@Peter This is super useful, thanks for posting. I've been thinking of building a floor-standing, full-width, full-height bookcase/shelving unit for our living room, but I worry about installing it on top of carpet, and I don't really want to cut/remove the carpet, either. Do you have any advice?
I go through the process of fixing through carpet on my last install, P1 here - ua-cam.com/video/B9qHsXC9MAQ/v-deo.html. Long story short, screw blocks of wood - or a complete sub-floor - down through the carpet into the floorboards to make a solid, non-flexing surface that you can fix to and level from. I prefer using plinths, but adjustable feet will also work. You must take that carpet ‘springiness’ out of the equation though. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Interesting. I was wondering about screwing the plinth to the skirting, then diamond shaped blocks to the inside of the plinth sides where the points pushed hard into the carpet. The idea being inspired by fancy hi-fi speaker stands which have pins that push through carpets so the sound is better. One reason for trying to avoid drilling is that I'm looking at a concrete floor so drilling a tiny screw that wouldn't be visible if the whole lot is removed isn't so straightforward. Another idea is to roll back the carpet a few inches and leave it like that under the plinth, so it could just be rolled flat again if the unit was removed. The edging strip is another consideration in terms of levelling things. All so confusing!
Peter what type of hinges did you use and how did you mount them ....thanks Steve
Pretty sure I covered that in the build in P1; it’s a continuous (piano) hinge, screwed in place. 👍👍
Loving the block plane, Peter!
Any chance of a link please?
Thanks! And sure - here you go... Stanley block plane - amzn.to/2Ouf6vM (US: amzn.to/2MF2yQi)
hi, the gap on the left..I would have put two filler pieces at either end of the lid so the the gap wouldn't have been there!! and there would have been sufficient room for the lid to open! .
Mr Slim Guy 65 Yes, as per my reply to hamscanner below! Thanks for watching. P
ok sry didn't see ::)
Hey, no worries - totally fair comment; thanks for watching so closely ;) P
Hi PeterReally enjoying your videos. What paint do you use on your MDF?Steve
Steve Bignell Thanks! 99% of the time I use a water-based acrylic primer/undercoat followed by a water-based eggshell topcoat x 2, all applied with a foam roller. I'll have a 'painting and finishing' video up soon! Thanks again. P
Hi just come across your channel (new subscriber BTW) re the gap on the left hand side of the lid,I know the walls are not square but just curious what one could do to make it not so obvious
Hi and thanks! Early days on UA-cam, lots to learn yet. Re. the seat lid, there's always the option to have the opening part of the seat inset i.e. like the 50mm rear section that the hinge attaches to, you have a fixed ~30mm or so at either side, provided you have the space - the seat needs to bear against the carcass when closed, obviously. With the benefit of hindsight that probably would have been easier, but the customer wanted as big a seat/storage as possible and I wasn't too bothered by the gap on this one because they're having a bolster (long cushion) made for it, so it will be all be covered, ultimately.
Thanks again. P
A lot easier when doing the install ,old homes nothing is ever strait ,but i think you can say the same for some of the new homes that are built way to fast ,still a great job looks good ,i think MDF although messy to work with can be finished rater nice and a lot of people wouldn't know the difference ,but working with hardwoods and plywood would make it UN affordable for most people now a days
True that. Thanks!
What brand is that hand saw you're using? I think it's time to add one to my kit. Jigsaw is a hassle sometimes.
Yes, they're well handy, especially with the different blades. It's the first link in the description above:-
Japanese folding pocket saw - goo.gl/DlcyPw
Cheers, Peter
Peter Millard oops didn't even expand that section watching on my phone :-)
No worries - I'm not sure anyone does, tbh ;)
Why's that? Edit:- just seen your location!
What was the tool you used to cut the skirting board?
Regular multi-tool - that one's a Makita, I think. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thanks Peter - really helpful and great videos.
Does it comply with fire regs?
As supplied, yes. The only fire regs that apply to domestic furniture are the Furniture and Furnishings (Fire) (Safety) Regulations, and they only relate to the upholstery coverings and filling, which the client was going to supply themselves.
Enjoying your videos Peter, but if I might say, that's a stupid place for a piece of builtin furniture. What happens when you need to carry a wardrobe or a bed up or down the stairs?
Thanks. Yes, it's a very good question, and one I raised with the customer at the time, without reaching any conclusion; I guess they'll cross that bridge if & when they come to it!
Hi Peter, how much would something like this cost?
Depends on many things, but in the region of £1200-1400 or thereabouts. 👍
What kind of pants are those your wearing at the end of the video?
+Jake Carter Same ones as at the start 😂 They're 'TuffStuff Extreme 700 series' - link in the video description, and in the 'stuff I use' section at 10minuteworkshop.com 👍
You must not use Building Codes in the UK.
We have building regulations, but they apply to the fabric of the building, not the contents. So yes, it’s perfectly acceptable to use part of a large landing to put in a window seat and storage, but wouldn’t be unacceptable to say, move a doorway so that it opened directly into a staircase.
Something a framer should never compromise, square, straight and true....but mother nature has a nasty way of changing all that over time.
+David Aschenbrand Very true 👍
I'm not sure my clients would appreciate that squeaky lid! lol!
Anthony James Brown Empty vessels make the most noise, as they say, and a squeeze of WD40 and it's as silent as my knees, lol! Seriously, not an issue IRL. Thanks for watching. P
Thanks Peter. Good luck with your next build. Well done with the videos too.
Anthony James Brown Thanks! 👍