Thats dedication to run a review over such a long period of time!! I also like that you didn't try to pull any favours by mentioning your UA-cam channel and had the same kind of experience that any of us would have!
I've had the Nemesis 9000's for almost 8 years now, and I also have a Baja Designs 42 inch LED bar up under the roof rack. For long distance / open road / high speed travelling, I don't even bother turning on the LED bar - it doesn't come close to competing with the Fyrlyt's (and the Baja Designs bar is one of the best on the market). Off road - I use the LED bar. The Fyrlyts are not much use in that type of work as that is not what they are designed for. You are 100% right in your comments about the "warmer" colour in general and the CRI in particular. I travel regularly between Perth and Kalgoorlie, with the occasional trip across the Nullarbor. On these trips - the Fyrlyt is a far better light than anything LED (also better than HID) - especially if you have the Fyrlyt 9000's. Fyrlyt's after sales service is second to none - ring Paul if you have any issues at all. I experienced cracking with my original set of lenses. One phone call and a replacement set was in the mail at no cost to me. These have been on the vehicle for about 7 years now and the cracking of the lenses has not occurred again. As for the up/down movement of the lights - mine did a little bit until I read the instructions - there is a specific torque setting that the mounting bolt is meant to be tightened to. My lights have never moved since tightening to the recommended torque. Great to read such an honest and unbiased "warts and all" review of these lights, especially given the period of time you allowed to see how they really perform in a variety of conditions.
yeah i run the nemesis 9000, some places they are to good ...... major highways that have big refective signs, but once you get out into remote highways they are brilliant
Great review. I’ve been running a 50" Rigid LED bar and cubes for 4 years but my best setup was IPF spotties and LED cubes similar to yours. I ran that setup while living 2 years in the rainforest jungle in Costa Rica. The warm light on the tight jungle tracks was unbeatable. Now you have me thinking again to add some spotties again.
I've got a pair of the LUXSIS 5000 and very happy with them, and agree 100%. Lets not forget, they're Australian made unlike 98% of all other driving lights on the market.
Great vid Excellent review. I agree with you. I am an old bugger and I reckon my old Cibie Super Oscars were so much easier on your eyes than the LEDs I have now. I also think large road signs are a sight hazard with leds. Thanks
You get my vote!! its a pity there are not more halogen lights out there of quality, I grew up driving behind Cibie and later Lightforce! Good gear! Most of the current crop of LEDs are very bright but a complete detriment to seeing long range and long term at night
Back when I did a bit of rallying with Cibies we stopped them vibrating and going out of adjustment by cutting a big hose clamp in half and straightening it. Then fix one end to the top of the light and the other end to the grille area. With today's plastic grilles you may have to make a bracket but that's to be expected.
I'm still using my Super Oscars...purchased in 1983/4 Only thing is one cannot get the same globes anymore and i think because of that, they don't work as well. The originals were a really long almost double globe. One part had a small plate and the other a filament. Now you can only get the filament globe insert. I've always wondered just how good LEDs were in comparison to the Super Oscars.
@@groundgrabbatm6379 Tried LED's Went back to my Super Oscars.Far less glare easy on the eyes. I see skippys and wombats so much better. I would like to try the fyrlyt's but can't justify the expense on the chance they are as good or better. Currently I run 3 Super Oscars, two driving wth a pencil in the middle. :-)
Can personally vouch for this company and these lights. Sold heaps of pairs, some Nemesis too - usually it's overkill. But Paul indeed was the Owner of the company and he's such a legend to talk to, absolutely fully of information and sooo helpful when it comes to warranty claims. They finally got their glass lens supplier too!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Totally agree with you on the light rendering mate, I’ve got a set of Hella Rally 4000’s which have been on 2 cars and about to go onto my new car, had them for 12 years and in that time the only problem I’ve had is one globe replacement... that’s it! I’ve always had the temptation to go led but like you I find they’re not as hard on the eyes.👍
I've been running FyrLyt for a few years now. Found the same with them moving with a physical knock but as you said, better than a broken housing. I rate them highly. I have a LED bar on the roof and run them together at times.
I’ve had a set for about 6 months.The lenses are just now starting to crack.Your experience pretty much mirrors mine, except for the loose connections.Good to hear about the customer service, I’ll be going back to the auto electrician this week and hitting them up for new lenses. Thank you for the review, the timing couldn’t be better.
G'day Michael. A nice balanced review mate, as always. I've had the Nemesis 9000s since May and taken them from Canberra to Cape Tribulation and back via outback QLD and NSW, as well as a couple of Hume Highway runs back from Sydney. These lights haven't missed a beat and the reduction in eye fatigue can't be overstated. It's like driving through a tunnel of light, although a bit more spread at close range on very windy roads would be appreciated (your setup looks like a good solution). I had mine installed by a local auto-electrician and the installation was first class, with zero movement in the mounting brackets. Highly recommended.
Another awesome video Michael. It was a toss up when it came time to replace my driving lights. It came down to FyreLyte or LightForce. I went with HID LightForce and I’m pretty happy with them. But as you so eloquently pointed out the colour of the FyreLyte is so much easier on the eyes. I did a trip to Thargomindah with a mate who has these on his Patrol and I was really impressed. I have had the same problem with the mounts on my LightForce. They hate corrugations, however with these aimed in the right direction and the light bar on the roof they give great distance and spread. Well done on another informative video. Keep em coming. 👍
Thank you for the long term test. So many other tubers get something bolt it on and ready to do a glowing review. Being from the states, I didn't know what a wombat looked like, until I saw that one almost trip crossing the road at 08:42 !
Great review Michael I have both halogen and a light bar but agree the led can be more fatigue on the eyes if long drives but shorter twisting roads there great I think combinations are good depending the situation Cheers
Back in the mid 80's I tested all the top brands of spotlights from Cibie and Hella rallye 2000's and the best longrange/Spread beamed lights are the IPF900 Driving Beam and last year I saw that they still make the oringinal IPF900's so I ordered a set, If you like the Colour of Halogen lights you won't find a better light, At Night you can pick out tree trucks for up to a mile away or 1.6ks, They also have a hole at the top on the back which you can fit a metal support strap which stops any vibration of the light on rough tracks, Also with all big lights you shouls always use a support strap to stop them from moving, Hope that helps, Great Video, Well done.
I just fitted the 250's and they are epic! You need to install some serious fuses and a solid 100A relay but the results in light output are incredible.
Great video...one suggestion would be to include a Light distribution and Isolux diagram, though I just checked and Fyrlyt doesn't have any...just like so many manufacturers. One reason I like Hella is they have light distribution charts for all their lights. The Con with Hella is they switched to ABS housings which are crap. Fyrlyt looks great but the cost is in the realm of professional drivers, racers, truckers...Expensive...a pair of Nemesis 9000's is what I paid for my first used Porsche in the '60's!😂 Pleasure to watch. Subscribed.
Lilo, we note your mention of an isolux diagram being useful in plainly seeing the beam geometry and light distribution. I will give a simple explanation as to why we do not currently and that is due to the LAB extrapolation of that data and how it can be very problematic in the real world of 'dirty air' outside of controlled enclosed room. (Due to the TYNDALL effect in air particulate, dust, moisture, smoke, haze etc). No lab test accounts for this or worse the wavelength variations and how they react. This is why you can one minute a bright light rendered can be ineffective in rain, fog or haze and another light appear to cut through with no real issues. Worst case is when the light causes discomfort glare. This is immediately compromising safety. You maybe familiar with how in some cases this data is gathered inside a spherical chamber and in some cases as small as 60cm which can give some very inaccurate data that makes for great marketing but falls short in the real world. Hence why we have a real issue in how deceptive the 1 LUX @ X metres has been bastardised by marketeers and media into meaning something it does not. We explain this in detail on our website. The promotional material we had provided by Jamie Benaud include his RAW file data on his own website and he clearly explains the exposure and methodology for full transparency. As to your Porsche in the 60's? DON'T get us started! IF only we had squirreled away so many old bangers!
@shane I'm in my 50s and i just get blinded when I am in a car with led or hid sure they are bright but for long drives at night the warmth that comes from halogen is much better to drive with, also I'm a hunter and i noticed that halogen spotlight does not cast a shadow over an animal at night unlike LED and animals like foxes bolt with led roos do the same. mine are 900s the ones that are submersible the lenses don't crack on water crossings at night with the heat. good point you made with 2nd hand as the yuppies are selling top name brand halogen spotlights for next to nix on ebay and gum tree
Awesome review mate. Fyrlyt put a lot of effort into their lights. I switched back to Halogen 5 years ago, still have a 50 inch led bar on the roof but my Lightforce XGT spots well out perform it on a long country road. For tighter windy roads the combo of both goes well. With Hallogen lights, to get the best out of them run them on seperate relays with nice heavy cable. This will mean the draw and voltage drop won't put as much strain on the globes making them last way longer.
Maybe try using a silicone or a rubbery type of glue. Just apply a short bead, like an inch. Around the edge of the lens and the housing to glue the lens down so it doesnt spin off from the rough roads. Silicone stays flexible when dry, and is easy to peel off when servicing the lights. Love watching all your videos and to see all of the hard work and dedication you put into your content.
I run a light bar and halogens. Best of both worlds. One trick to stop the light housing from moving around is to get a screw type hose clamp, cut it in 1/2 and rivet one end to the top of the light housing and the other to the underside of the top bull bar tube. It adds a bit of stiffness without being too rigid and the screw gives some up/down adjustment to the lens. It can be an entry point for moisture though, so attach it to a bit of the housing outside the seal or install 2 rivets so it can't twist and plenty of sealant.and
Thank You! I have been having the warm light v white/blue light argument for years but all my yokel mates are sold on the LED hype. There is a lot of science behind this, but the hype of LED Lumens and Kelvin has totally stolen the market. I drive many hours at night and will never use LED or HID (they are just too bright for highway use). Glad to see someone talking some light sense!!
Halogen is the ultimate for colour rendering and very comfortable to drive behind. SO much better in the high country or coastal areas where there is moisture in the air also. Blue light scatters like crazy. I still have an old set of Cibie Super Oscars that i love but wouldnt mind trying a set of these. The designer knows his stuff way better than most.
There is a a one thing I think is worth noting about LED CRI. Everything you said is absolutely correct for 1x LED. But what good manufacturers will do is actually combine slightly different color LEDs into a single bar. So if a bar has 40x LEDs, there may actually be say 9x technically different colors (3x3 grid in color space) and the color output of the bar can actually have a much better CRI than any of the individual LEDs. Imagine all of those different graphs overlapping in different ways and adding up to one smoother graph with a wider distribution. Now, that being said, cheap LED manufacturers have probably also never heard of CRI, so it isn’t something that you can bank on. Haha. But it is a trick that allows high end LEDs to be even better.
Well done, I like the comprehensive and honest list of pros and cons, some good feed back for the maker as well, lets hope they listen and send you a pair of any updated model for review/compare
Great review man! Nicely put together and really good points. Not surprised you don't get much flood out of them since the reflectors are designed for spot. Shifting the bulb forwards will only give you a little change and you demonstrated. Were these the 5000 or the 9000?
Nice review, mate! I use Hella halogen spotlights and they have similar issue with getting shifted up or down. Otherwise, mount and forget. For me another advantage was european approval, which LED bars usually don't have. By the way, 250 W is madness, mine are 55 W each.
I've had fyrlyt's on my f truck for 9 years now and never had an issue with them, still got the original plastic covers on them as well, getting a bit hazy, but still working well. I have the 24 volt converter running 150 watt bulbs, never had to change one yet after 9 years. When you talk about value, i absolutely swear by these lights, just keep on keeping on. The colour is awesome, totally agree with you on that one, my eyes are 61 years young now and I wear prescription glasses, LED's are no good for people with glasses as the reflected blinding white light bounces off the back of my lenses, not good. FYRLYT's, love them and will never put anything else on the front of effy.
This is very important the lights be torqued to specifications supplied in the instructions. In 99% of issues this has always been the problem. In the less than other 1% it was a fault we rectified and was isolated to a small batch we took full responsibility for.
Excellent review, I am a strong believer of halogen lights. to be fair Lightforce halogens are pretty impressive as well. I will definitely try these lights as well.
The LF halogens were and are still a very relevant light even by our own admission. What we have done is push the technology of halogen and construction further. You are obviously a critical thinker and look at evidence rather than by default trend as being a measure of best.
LED and Halogen both have their pros and cons, which is why I run both, they compliment each other in varying conditions. I have them on separate switches for maximum flexibility. One thing that you didn't mention is that Halogen lights put more strain on the vehicle electrical system than LED lights do, not that it matters a great deal when everything is upgraded I guess.
I took off my LED light bars and fitted the 250W Fyrlyts And I agree with everything you say about the colour and the improvement in spotting wildlife. Much much better than the harsh white glare of LED's and a better focused light as well. I've had no issues with losing lenses or loose lights at all. The billet aluminium mounts are very very strong and if torqued up as recommended by Fyrlyt they don't move (and I'm talking about the Anne Beadell, Tanami Track etc etc. And I do like the spare parts availability - and the prices are good too - have you priced a reflector for a Lightforce 240? Stupidly expensive. As for cons, yes, I agree that the spread could be wider but I'm going to try angling the lights out a little more. I have also found that the current draw on the 250 watt bulbs is pretty heavy and the 24V to 12v conversion means slow speed driving can sap the battery. Would I buy them again? No need - these will last a long time. Highly recommended......
Great vid bloke, I have a pair of the 250 watt lights and I agree with your review. They are so easy on the eyes at night, and they have half the reflection off of those green road signs. I also had a lens fall out, and Paul replaced it free. I agree with your comment about them being easy to knock out of position, but as you said they don't shift when driving over corrugations. My mate has the best Lightforce LED's and they are tiring, and the reflection off of signs is blinding. He was impressed with the Frylyt's. I would buy them again.
Great review as always, but just to let you know not all LEDs can be grouped together. There are LEDs with higher CRI ratings than the fyrlyts with better CCT as well. Its just the majority of Cheaper LEDS (and some expensive ones) have below par light quality.
I've had the nemesis 9000 on the front of my cruiser for 3yrs now, used a lot, never had an issue with the lenses. I've had various led and hid lights and the fyrlyts are by far the best light I've had, they don't move with corrugations or nudging scrub out the way. Have a x-ray vision light bar on there as well (5x30w modules) and when I have the nemesis fyrlyts on spread beam the light bar may as well be removed. Brilliant light for long distance driving as you say because your eyes just don't get tired as quick, also an easy 1km usable beam. The only issue Ive had is the current draw on mine, being 250w with a 24v step up transformer they draw 40 amps meaning your charging system better be up to the task!
I went from LED to FyrLytes a while back and i am very happy with mine. i have not had an issue with them moving. i use a torque wrench to get them to the correct torque.
i remember back in the days when we all had halogen and then the led came and it just was a nightmare in the night and when it rains even so so much worse. so, i agree totaly with you. it actualy makes me happy that someone agrees with me on that LOL.
NICHT DA when i got my 4runner, it came with two top mounted led bars & one bumper mounted - i was pretty excited not having to pay for them & always wanted to try them out. couldn't stand em, ha. took em off & haven't missed em one bit.
Same problem here in Sweden. I'm a truck driver, and my new truck has a Vision-X lightbar up top and 4 NBB 225 HID fitted to the bull-bar. And if it rains, or even worse, if it's snowing i usually have to shut them off due to glare...
I love my Fyrlyts had them for over 6 years now. Two level the lights I made a block of would with a step in it, the lower step for when I'm loaded and the upper step for unloaded. That way if I knock the light I can just push it back down to the right height.
I have two Lightforce on my bar and two smaller Light bars under the roof basket on the front corners facing out on an angle about 45 degrees to put light into that dark spot where spotlights don't get around to. Works well.
Excellent review, colour temperature is a big issue with LEDs and reflected glare, but I do like the wide beam for peripheral vision. Saved many a roo.....
I had the nemesis 9000's on our dmax they were the best lights I've ever had, but had the same issues with the cracking lenses, but they replaced them free and that was the last of the issues 👌
Old trick from Rallying. We cut a worm drive clamp in half. Flattened it out and drilled a small hole at each end with the drive block in the middle. We riveted or screwed one end to the lamp housing and the other to a part of the body or nudge bar. To adjust you just turn the wormdrive in or out as required.
Hi Michael, Thanks for another well done video on an oft-overlooked illumination consideration. Warm light and it's place in the nocturnal world is important. I did notice the apt sound effect accompanying the boulder-on-legs; the wombat. Nice touch. :) On another subject, have you had any experience with say 60Ahr Lithium batteries?. Especially the expensive one that you hopefully can aquire (legally!) at a sensible price?.
On the close-up after you installed the first pair of new lenses, I could see that the left one looked like the it wasn't fully seated. As you look at it face-on, the left side was sticking out just a bit.
Great review my friend! I've had my 24v Nemesis 9000s on my Defender for 12 months and love them! The light they put out is just wonderful. I can only describe it as that warm powerful light you get when the sun shines through the dark clouds after an afternoon thunderstorm and just fills the whole countryside with that yellow glow. There are the pro/con arguments of course. Like the higher current draw etc. But really, all these arguments are made at the keyboard. Out in the bush, in my opinion, the sheer quality of light these guys emit, leaves any con and their competition in the shadows ;) Hands down, my favourite distance driving light.
Hey bud, great video. I've been running halogen penil beams for around 30 years and the lamp tilting up or down used to drive me nuts at the start. I got a large hose clamp and cut it in half. Attach one end to the top of the lamp and the other to near the radiator grill. Just adjust the clamps screw to set them.
G'day mate. It must be a personal thing and not every one has the same tolerance of different lights. I fist drove with halogen spotties in the eighties before LED's was a thing and I used to get fatigued focusing on the dull light and smaller area of light. Led's opened up the vision so much more and could focus on a wider area, it just helps me to be more awake and aware. The reflective signs you can't look at though or you can dip your light till you pass them.
Great review, I have the nemesis 9000's but I apart from getting into glass lenses I haven't had the same issues that you had. But once again love the review
Lightforce XGT hid have had them since they where released and can't fault them, tried a few different types to upgrade but after using i always reinstall my old lightforce XGT, Great review on these you went the extra mile mate
I wouldn't mind seeing these in action some time! Until then, I'll give a shout out to Baja Designs LEDs. I've had their simple, Squadron Pro driving combo on my street car for quite some time and I really love them. They have a much more natural color temperature than any other LED I've seen and subjectively, a pleasing CRI. One thing to know, that a lot of folks don't seem to realize, is this: There is a strong tendency to try to emulate day light with artificial sources. This is well and good indoors, but in low light situations, our eyes are evolved to perform better with a much higher color temperature. The reason is that in nature, after the sun goes down, we have star and moon light to work with. This has far more blue than anything else. Compare to actual day light, even a pretty powerful off-road setup is still not very bright, so it's worth keeping in mind. That said, I agree that most 6000-6500k LEDs are too blue and find them obnoxious. Baja's advertised 5000k feels more like 4500k to me and I don't have any problem with fatigue at all. Not trying to take anything away from this review, I agree with the points made here.
that is what fyrlight is known for excellent backup service. after the founders had experienced the run around with other brands on thier own vehicles they decided to make a light that did what they wanted and gave it the backup service. yes they are expensive but you do get what you pay for.
Have a look at HID or HID conversions, I did a HID conversion on my old IPF and they turned out great, and a cheep alternative, and you can select the colour temperature
What can l say young man a great review,these days being a senior citizen l try to avoid night driving just in case some mad felah runs in front of me,saying that l do like them lights and just wondering are them lights easy to get of your vehicle and where abouts do you park at night.
I went with the Kings $100 budget set of 9” lights, super bright. Problem is so much of the light hits close to you because of the wide spread so when I have to dip them for oncoming cars it feels like I can’t see far at all. and if there is a street sign anywhere you won’t see much except that sign because it reflects so badly. I’m going back to halogen and maybe a light bar on the roof for when I want a solid floodlight
agreed on the common LED light colour, cool white, being way too harsh.. i actively seek out warm white led for camping lights these days.. just wish i could find em easier in LED or HID driving lights (i do love my 50w HID converted IPFs tho) .. great review 👍
Hey nice video! Have you considered testing the lightforce halogen line up? They're also an Aussie brand but are far cheaper than fyreliyt's halogens. I would love to see a comparison video!
Each to their own, I bought some really cheap lights for my rally car and then installed some cheap HID kits from ebay but found them so good I fitted them to my BT for long road trips , I always fit a bracket onto each light to stop the vibration and in your situation it might help the lights last longer and stop the movement, Regards Trevor
Good to finally see someone mention CRI. Next we need to talk about the human eyes bias for yellowish light. After all it evolved to see under one big yellow light. If your lights are so white/blue that they are making everything turn grey then that defeats the purpose. Watch this space. In 5 - 10 years time, mass produced warm LED driving lights will be smashing the market.
Spot on mate! :) This dude has done some good practical research to show us that trendy cold light LEDs are not always the best solution for lighting. And we'll see that soon, those bright blue/white LEDs on roadside lights will change to match the soft, easy on the eyes, glow that sodium lamps used to give us. Harsh changes from bright to dark confounds human eyes. But ... sigh... getting the latest fashionable "brightest" light bars on your truck will be more profitable for the manufacturer...
Silicone grease on the o-rings is definitely a good idea, but perhaps the manufacturer should have included a grub screw to secure the lens once it's in position to stop it rotating and falling out
@@rodneyjones4890 Well as an experienced industrial electrician with many years working in explosive areas and dealing with o-rings, I know it IS a good idea.
I keep thinking about getting some new spots but every time I start to think about what to get I have to remember that we are in camp by 4pm almost all the time. Probably marks me as an old fart but at least I don't collect native wildlife on the roo bar any more.
Great video mate, I'm still running my 5 yr old set of halogen lightforce xgt's. Love the colour compared to the led or hid and I have a 50" curved led bar above my windscreen for slow offroad tracks. Cheap and simple lights!
Thanks again for a great no nonsense review Michael. Always appreciate your honesty. Ive got a pair of rigid's on my ride. Excellent quality but so true the white light makes night driving strenuous on your eyes. I eventually switch them off to rest my eyes and leave on ther dually pods. Ive noticed they worst when it rains making everything look washed out. I am contemplating changing to hid but definitly not the fyrlights after your experiences. Maybe arb or someones else's. Just a thought dont u get led lights with say 3000k chips
Pod light advice? I have been running fyrlights on my blue BT-50 as well (snap) since 2015 and love your idea of adding the pod lights, particularly to get early skippy warning via eye shine. Do you have any advice on pod lights please? [sorry if you have addressed this elsewhere, I have just subscribed to your channel] P.s. had same trouble with the lights dipping with bump and vibration and even lost a bolt in the Kimberley. I ended up finding a bolt that went through and through and used a nyloc nut to cinch it tight. This bush fix ended up working better than the original design
Running across frame has to be the best way I've seen someone test a set of lights.
Quasi yes that was cool
Thats dedication to run a review over such a long period of time!! I also like that you didn't try to pull any favours by mentioning your UA-cam channel and had the same kind of experience that any of us would have!
Why do I get so excited when I see an upload from SEEK ADVENTURE 😍 keep up the vids mate! Life’s an adventure
I've had the Nemesis 9000's for almost 8 years now, and I also have a Baja Designs 42 inch LED bar up under the roof rack. For long distance / open road / high speed travelling, I don't even bother turning on the LED bar - it doesn't come close to competing with the Fyrlyt's (and the Baja Designs bar is one of the best on the market). Off road - I use the LED bar. The Fyrlyts are not much use in that type of work as that is not what they are designed for.
You are 100% right in your comments about the "warmer" colour in general and the CRI in particular. I travel regularly between Perth and Kalgoorlie, with the occasional trip across the Nullarbor. On these trips - the Fyrlyt is a far better light than anything LED (also better than HID) - especially if you have the Fyrlyt 9000's.
Fyrlyt's after sales service is second to none - ring Paul if you have any issues at all. I experienced cracking with my original set of lenses. One phone call and a replacement set was in the mail at no cost to me. These have been on the vehicle for about 7 years now and the cracking of the lenses has not occurred again. As for the up/down movement of the lights - mine did a little bit until I read the instructions - there is a specific torque setting that the mounting bolt is meant to be tightened to. My lights have never moved since tightening to the recommended torque.
Great to read such an honest and unbiased "warts and all" review of these lights, especially given the period of time you allowed to see how they really perform in a variety of conditions.
I don't usually say this. But this is a great comment. Nice and informative!
yeah i run the nemesis 9000, some places they are to good ...... major highways that have big refective signs, but once you get out into remote highways they are brilliant
Strange looking Emu run 9:01, lmao Keep up good videos.
Hands down one of the best UA-camrs 👍🏻
Great review. I’ve been running a 50" Rigid LED bar and cubes for 4 years but my best setup was IPF spotties and LED cubes similar to yours. I ran that setup while living 2 years in the rainforest jungle in Costa Rica. The warm light on the tight jungle tracks was unbeatable. Now you have me thinking again to add some spotties again.
I've got a pair of the LUXSIS 5000 and very happy with them, and agree 100%. Lets not forget, they're Australian made unlike 98% of all other driving lights on the market.
This man is full of smiles kinda radiating positivity. Good review too!
Great vid Excellent review. I agree with you. I am an old bugger and I reckon my old Cibie Super Oscars were so much easier on your eyes than the LEDs I have now. I also think large road signs are a sight hazard with leds. Thanks
You get my vote!!
its a pity there are not more halogen lights out there of quality, I grew up driving behind Cibie and later Lightforce! Good gear!
Most of the current crop of LEDs are very bright but a complete detriment to seeing long range and long term at night
Back when I did a bit of rallying with Cibies we stopped them vibrating and going out of adjustment by cutting a big hose clamp in half and straightening it. Then fix one end to the top of the light and the other end to the grille area. With today's plastic grilles you may have to make a bracket but that's to be expected.
I'm still using my Super Oscars...purchased in 1983/4 Only thing is one cannot get the same globes anymore and i think because of that, they don't work as well. The originals were a really long almost double globe. One part had a small plate and the other a filament. Now you can only get the filament globe insert. I've always wondered just how good LEDs were in comparison to the Super Oscars.
@@groundgrabbatm6379 Tried LED's Went back to my Super Oscars.Far less glare easy on the eyes. I see skippys and wombats so much better. I would like to try the fyrlyt's but can't justify the expense on the chance they are as good or better. Currently I run 3 Super Oscars, two driving wth a pencil in the middle. :-)
Can personally vouch for this company and these lights. Sold heaps of pairs, some Nemesis too - usually it's overkill. But Paul indeed was the Owner of the company and he's such a legend to talk to, absolutely fully of information and sooo helpful when it comes to warranty claims. They finally got their glass lens supplier too!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Totally agree with you on the light rendering mate, I’ve got a set of Hella Rally 4000’s which have been on 2 cars and about to go onto my new car, had them for 12 years and in that time the only problem I’ve had is one globe replacement... that’s it! I’ve always had the temptation to go led but like you I find they’re not as hard on the eyes.👍
I really appreciate the long review period. So many reviews are with minimal use and no real longevity test. Thanks!
I've been running FyrLyt for a few years now. Found the same with them moving with a physical knock but as you said, better than a broken housing. I rate them highly. I have a LED bar on the roof and run them together at times.
Just put a couple of sets on my Silverado and I’m absolutely blown away. They’re ridiculous.
I’ve had a set for about 6 months.The lenses are just now starting to crack.Your experience pretty much mirrors mine, except for the loose connections.Good to hear about the customer service, I’ll be going back to the auto electrician this week and hitting them up for new lenses. Thank you for the review, the timing couldn’t be better.
G'day Michael. A nice balanced review mate, as always. I've had the Nemesis 9000s since May and taken them from Canberra to Cape Tribulation and back via outback QLD and NSW, as well as a couple of Hume Highway runs back from Sydney. These lights haven't missed a beat and the reduction in eye fatigue can't be overstated. It's like driving through a tunnel of light, although a bit more spread at close range on very windy roads would be appreciated (your setup looks like a good solution). I had mine installed by a local auto-electrician and the installation was first class, with zero movement in the mounting brackets. Highly recommended.
Another awesome video Michael.
It was a toss up when it came time to replace my driving lights. It came down to FyreLyte or LightForce. I went with HID LightForce and I’m pretty happy with them. But as you so eloquently pointed out the colour of the FyreLyte is so much easier on the eyes. I did a trip to Thargomindah with a mate who has these on his Patrol and I was really impressed. I have had the same problem with the mounts on my LightForce. They hate corrugations, however with these aimed in the right direction and the light bar on the roof they give great distance and spread.
Well done on another informative video. Keep em coming. 👍
Thanks for the updates!
Great work again on the review!
We miss your videos!!!!
Thank you for the long term test. So many other tubers get something bolt it on and ready to do a glowing review. Being from the states, I didn't know what a wombat looked like, until I saw that one almost trip crossing the road at 08:42 !
And I must say, the form factor. Brilliant lights, easy to replace parts as they designed these for. Paul and the team have done a brilliant job.
Great review Michael I have both halogen and a light bar but agree the led can be more fatigue on the eyes if long drives but shorter twisting roads there great
I think combinations are good depending the situation
Cheers
Been hanging out for this video.
I’m 50, & always had Cibbi or Hella for years as we all did.
Back in the mid 80's I tested all the top brands of spotlights from Cibie and Hella rallye 2000's and the best longrange/Spread beamed lights are the IPF900 Driving Beam and last year I saw that they still make the oringinal IPF900's so I ordered a set, If you like the Colour of Halogen lights you won't find a better light, At Night you can pick out tree trucks for up to a mile away or 1.6ks, They also have a hole at the top on the back which you can fit a metal support strap which stops any vibration of the light on rough tracks, Also with all big lights you shouls always use a support strap to stop them from moving, Hope that helps, Great Video, Well done.
You have named some legends there that STILL hold their own despite what many believe. Like a Rolex or good hifi system!
I just fitted the 250's and they are epic! You need to install some serious fuses and a solid 100A relay but the results in light output are incredible.
Great video...one suggestion would be to include a Light distribution and Isolux diagram, though I just checked and Fyrlyt doesn't have any...just like so many manufacturers. One reason I like Hella is they have light distribution charts for all their lights. The Con with Hella is they switched to ABS housings which are crap. Fyrlyt looks great but the cost is in the realm of professional drivers, racers, truckers...Expensive...a pair of Nemesis 9000's is what I paid for my first used Porsche in the '60's!😂 Pleasure to watch. Subscribed.
Lilo, we note your mention of an isolux diagram being useful in plainly seeing the beam geometry and light distribution. I will give a simple explanation as to why we do not currently and that is due to the LAB extrapolation of that data and how it can be very problematic in the real world of 'dirty air' outside of controlled enclosed room. (Due to the TYNDALL effect in air particulate, dust, moisture, smoke, haze etc). No lab test accounts for this or worse the wavelength variations and how they react. This is why you can one minute a bright light rendered can be ineffective in rain, fog or haze and another light appear to cut through with no real issues. Worst case is when the light causes discomfort glare. This is immediately compromising safety.
You maybe familiar with how in some cases this data is gathered inside a spherical chamber and in some cases as small as 60cm which can give some very inaccurate data that makes for great marketing but falls short in the real world. Hence why we have a real issue in how deceptive the 1 LUX @ X metres has been bastardised by marketeers and media into meaning something it does not. We explain this in detail on our website.
The promotional material we had provided by Jamie Benaud include his RAW file data on his own website and he clearly explains the exposure and methodology for full transparency.
As to your Porsche in the 60's? DON'T get us started! IF only we had squirreled away so many old bangers!
I have had a set of IPF EXTREMES since 07 90w halogen globs never blown a globe and I'm with you no eye strain with halogen on long drives
Me too, I still have my old 900xs fitted, since 2012 or thereabouts, on 2 vehicles, also never done a globe!
@@luket6334 worth the moon money i paid for them , 1 trip around AU and now on the 3rd 4x4
@shane I'm in my 50s and i just get blinded when I am in a car with led or hid sure they are bright but for long drives at night the warmth that comes from halogen is much better to drive with, also I'm a hunter and i noticed that halogen spotlight does not cast a shadow over an animal at night unlike LED and animals like foxes bolt with led roos do the same.
mine are 900s the ones that are submersible the lenses don't crack on water crossings at night with the heat.
good point you made with 2nd hand as the yuppies are selling top name brand halogen spotlights for next to nix on ebay and gum tree
Awesome review mate. Fyrlyt put a lot of effort into their lights.
I switched back to Halogen 5 years ago, still have a 50 inch led bar on the roof but my Lightforce XGT spots well out perform it on a long country road.
For tighter windy roads the combo of both goes well.
With Hallogen lights, to get the best out of them run them on seperate relays with nice heavy cable. This will mean the draw and voltage drop won't put as much strain on the globes making them last way longer.
I love these tech video's on new and different kinds of products rather than your standard run-of-the-mill. Keep up the excellent work. Thanks again.
Mate love how honest you are with your reviews and you tell us everything that’s happened with it👍👍👍
Maybe try using a silicone or a rubbery type of glue. Just apply a short bead, like an inch. Around the edge of the lens and the housing to glue the lens down so it doesnt spin off from the rough roads. Silicone stays flexible when dry, and is easy to peel off when servicing the lights. Love watching all your videos and to see all of the hard work and dedication you put into your content.
I run a light bar and halogens. Best of both worlds.
One trick to stop the light housing from moving around is to get a screw type hose clamp, cut it in 1/2 and rivet one end to the top of the light housing and the other to the underside of the top bull bar tube. It adds a bit of stiffness without being too rigid and the screw gives some up/down adjustment to the lens.
It can be an entry point for moisture though, so attach it to a bit of the housing outside the seal or install 2 rivets so it can't twist and plenty of sealant.and
Great review, mate 👍🏼 Love these lights, and the warmth of the halogens, as you mentioned 👌🏼
Thank You! I have been having the warm light v white/blue light argument for years but all my yokel mates are sold on the LED hype. There is a lot of science behind this, but the hype of LED Lumens and Kelvin has totally stolen the market. I drive many hours at night and will never use LED or HID (they are just too bright for highway use). Glad to see someone talking some light sense!!
You do the best reviews ever man. Fair and concise every time. Thanks
Halogen is the ultimate for colour rendering and very comfortable to drive behind. SO much better in the high country or coastal areas where there is moisture in the air also. Blue light scatters like crazy. I still have an old set of Cibie Super Oscars that i love but wouldnt mind trying a set of these. The designer knows his stuff way better than most.
There is a a one thing I think is worth noting about LED CRI. Everything you said is absolutely correct for 1x LED.
But what good manufacturers will do is actually combine slightly different color LEDs into a single bar.
So if a bar has 40x LEDs, there may actually be say 9x technically different colors (3x3 grid in color space) and the color output of the bar can actually have a much better CRI than any of the individual LEDs.
Imagine all of those different graphs overlapping in different ways and adding up to one smoother graph with a wider distribution.
Now, that being said, cheap LED manufacturers have probably also never heard of CRI, so it isn’t something that you can bank on. Haha. But it is a trick that allows high end LEDs to be even better.
Well done, I like the comprehensive and honest list of pros and cons, some good feed back for the maker as well, lets hope they listen and send you a pair of any updated model for review/compare
Great review man! Nicely put together and really good points. Not surprised you don't get much flood out of them since the reflectors are designed for spot. Shifting the bulb forwards will only give you a little change and you demonstrated. Were these the 5000 or the 9000?
Nice review, mate! I use Hella halogen spotlights and they have similar issue with getting shifted up or down. Otherwise, mount and forget. For me another advantage was european approval, which LED bars usually don't have. By the way, 250 W is madness, mine are 55 W each.
Your run from side to side made my day :DD great video!
I've had fyrlyt's on my f truck for 9 years now and never had an issue with them, still got the original plastic covers on them as well, getting a bit hazy, but still working well.
I have the 24 volt converter running 150 watt bulbs, never had to change one yet after 9 years. When you talk about value, i absolutely swear by these lights, just keep on keeping on.
The colour is awesome, totally agree with you on that one, my eyes are 61 years young now and I wear prescription glasses, LED's are no good for people with glasses as the reflected blinding white light bounces off the back of my lenses, not good.
FYRLYT's, love them and will never put anything else on the front of effy.
Your Reviews are soo unbiased and honest!
well done mate keep them up, more reviews pls
You need a tension wrench to tighten the Mount I did mine to the manufacturers spec and they don’t move.
This is very important the lights be torqued to specifications supplied in the instructions. In 99% of issues this has always been the problem. In the less than other 1% it was a fault we rectified and was isolated to a small batch we took full responsibility for.
The ownership and accountability of your company is un beatable. This alone wins my business. Add that to a exelent product it's a no brainer.
Excellent review, I am a strong believer of halogen lights. to be fair Lightforce halogens are pretty impressive as well. I will definitely try these lights as well.
The LF halogens were and are still a very relevant light even by our own admission. What we have done is push the technology of halogen and construction further. You are obviously a critical thinker and look at evidence rather than by default trend as being a measure of best.
I have had Nemisis 9000's since May 2016 and just changed my first bulb. I changed both, just because. The bulbs were only $34. I'd recommend them
When it comes to spotlamp spread, crossing the beams helps.
also had low colour temperature hid for a while. nearly as good as halogen in terms of eyestrain.
LED and Halogen both have their pros and cons, which is why I run both, they compliment each other in varying conditions. I have them on separate switches for maximum flexibility. One thing that you didn't mention is that Halogen lights put more strain on the vehicle electrical system than LED lights do, not that it matters a great deal when everything is upgraded I guess.
I took off my LED light bars and fitted the 250W Fyrlyts And I agree with everything you say about the colour and the improvement in spotting wildlife. Much much better than the harsh white glare of LED's and a better focused light as well.
I've had no issues with losing lenses or loose lights at all. The billet aluminium mounts are very very strong and if torqued up as recommended by Fyrlyt they don't move (and I'm talking about the Anne Beadell, Tanami Track etc etc.
And I do like the spare parts availability - and the prices are good too - have you priced a reflector for a Lightforce 240? Stupidly expensive.
As for cons, yes, I agree that the spread could be wider but I'm going to try angling the lights out a little more. I have also found that the current draw on the 250 watt bulbs is pretty heavy and the 24V to 12v conversion means slow speed driving can sap the battery.
Would I buy them again? No need - these will last a long time. Highly recommended......
Great vid bloke, I have a pair of the 250 watt lights and I agree with your review. They are so easy on the eyes at night, and they have half the reflection off of those green road signs. I also had a lens fall out, and Paul replaced it free. I agree with your comment about them being easy to knock out of position, but as you said they don't shift when driving over corrugations. My mate has the best Lightforce LED's and they are tiring, and the reflection off of signs is blinding. He was impressed with the Frylyt's. I would buy them again.
Keep up the good work! Love your honest reviews
Another, balanced, intelligent, and informative review. Thanks and well done
Awesome review. I just picked up a set of 9000 Nemesis off gumtree too, looking forward to fitting and testing.
Great review as always, but just to let you know not all LEDs can be grouped together. There are LEDs with higher CRI ratings than the fyrlyts with better CCT as well. Its just the majority of Cheaper LEDS (and some expensive ones) have below par light quality.
I've had the nemesis 9000 on the front of my cruiser for 3yrs now, used a lot, never had an issue with the lenses. I've had various led and hid lights and the fyrlyts are by far the best light I've had, they don't move with corrugations or nudging scrub out the way. Have a x-ray vision light bar on there as well (5x30w modules) and when I have the nemesis fyrlyts on spread beam the light bar may as well be removed. Brilliant light for long distance driving as you say because your eyes just don't get tired as quick, also an easy 1km usable beam. The only issue Ive had is the current draw on mine, being 250w with a 24v step up transformer they draw 40 amps meaning your charging system better be up to the task!
My experience exactly!!!
I think you should contact the maker an have them see your review.. so they can redesign and make there product better , it was a great review !!!
I went from LED to FyrLytes a while back and i am very happy with mine. i have not had an issue with them moving. i use a torque wrench to get them to the correct torque.
i remember back in the days when we all had halogen and then the led came and it just was a nightmare in the night and when it rains even so so much worse. so, i agree totaly with you. it actualy makes me happy that someone agrees with me on that LOL.
NICHT DA when i got my 4runner, it came with two top mounted led bars & one bumper mounted - i was pretty excited not having to pay for them & always wanted to try them out. couldn't stand em, ha. took em off & haven't missed em one bit.
Same problem here in Sweden. I'm a truck driver, and my new truck has a Vision-X lightbar up top and 4 NBB 225 HID fitted to the bull-bar. And if it rains, or even worse, if it's snowing i usually have to shut them off due to glare...
Loved my antique 7" Lucas Flamethrowers with 100W bulbs.
I love my Fyrlyts had them for over 6 years now. Two level the lights I made a block of would with a step in it, the lower step for when I'm loaded and the upper step for unloaded. That way if I knock the light I can just push it back down to the right height.
That is a ridiculously simple way of setting them, great idea Jacob! It's cool to know there are long time users who like the lights 👌
I like mine too. Have had the same problem with the lense falling out but the shop I bought them from charged me for the new lense
Great honest review. Thanks mate
I have two Lightforce on my bar and two smaller Light bars under the roof basket on the front corners facing out on an angle about 45 degrees to put light into that dark spot where spotlights don't get around to. Works well.
Excellent review, colour temperature is a big issue with LEDs and reflected glare, but I do like the wide beam for peripheral vision. Saved many a roo.....
I had the nemesis 9000's on our dmax they were the best lights I've ever had, but had the same issues with the cracking lenses, but they replaced them free and that was the last of the issues 👌
Old trick from Rallying. We cut a worm drive clamp in half. Flattened it out and drilled a small hole at each end with the drive block in the middle. We riveted or screwed one end to the lamp housing and the other to a part of the body or nudge bar. To adjust you just turn the wormdrive in or out as required.
Teying to imagine this. Need more details lol
Very clever idea Robert! Thanks for sharing 🙂👍
what a great honest review. thanks
Hi Michael, Thanks for another well done video on an oft-overlooked illumination consideration.
Warm light and it's place in the nocturnal world is important.
I did notice the apt sound effect accompanying the boulder-on-legs; the wombat. Nice touch. :)
On another subject, have you had any experience with say 60Ahr Lithium batteries?. Especially the expensive one that you hopefully can aquire (legally!) at a sensible price?.
On the close-up after you installed the first pair of new lenses, I could see that the left one looked like the it wasn't fully seated. As you look at it face-on, the left side was sticking out just a bit.
Great review my friend! I've had my 24v Nemesis 9000s on my Defender for 12 months and love them! The light they put out is just wonderful. I can only describe it as that warm powerful light you get when the sun shines through the dark clouds after an afternoon thunderstorm and just fills the whole countryside with that yellow glow. There are the pro/con arguments of course. Like the higher current draw etc. But really, all these arguments are made at the keyboard. Out in the bush, in my opinion, the sheer quality of light these guys emit, leaves any con and their competition in the shadows ;) Hands down, my favourite distance driving light.
Got the same.ones and dont have the issues you mentioned. Reckon they need a service or something.
Great work as always
Hey bud, great video. I've been running halogen penil beams for around 30 years and the lamp tilting up or down used to drive me nuts at the start. I got a large hose clamp and cut it in half. Attach one end to the top of the lamp and the other to near the radiator grill. Just adjust the clamps screw to set them.
G'day mate. It must be a personal thing and not every one has the same tolerance of different lights. I fist drove with halogen spotties in the eighties before LED's was a thing and I used to get fatigued focusing on the dull light and smaller area of light. Led's opened up the vision so much more and could focus on a wider area, it just helps me to be more awake and aware. The reflective signs you can't look at though or you can dip your light till you pass them.
Great review, I have the nemesis 9000's but I apart from getting into glass lenses I haven't had the same issues that you had.
But once again love the review
Lightforce XGT hid have had them since they where released and can't fault them, tried a few different types to upgrade but after using i always reinstall my old lightforce XGT, Great review on these you went the extra mile mate
Go the Nemesis. Best lights I've ever had. No eye strain .No mounting or build issues
I wouldn't mind seeing these in action some time! Until then, I'll give a shout out to Baja Designs LEDs. I've had their simple, Squadron Pro driving combo on my street car for quite some time and I really love them. They have a much more natural color temperature than any other LED I've seen and subjectively, a pleasing CRI. One thing to know, that a lot of folks don't seem to realize, is this: There is a strong tendency to try to emulate day light with artificial sources. This is well and good indoors, but in low light situations, our eyes are evolved to perform better with a much higher color temperature. The reason is that in nature, after the sun goes down, we have star and moon light to work with. This has far more blue than anything else. Compare to actual day light, even a pretty powerful off-road setup is still not very bright, so it's worth keeping in mind. That said, I agree that most 6000-6500k LEDs are too blue and find them obnoxious. Baja's advertised 5000k feels more like 4500k to me and I don't have any problem with fatigue at all. Not trying to take anything away from this review, I agree with the points made here.
Well done mate love this video and how you did the review. Definitely got my sub.
that is what fyrlight is known for excellent backup service. after the founders had experienced the run around with other brands on thier own vehicles they decided to make a light that did what they wanted and gave it the backup service. yes they are expensive but you do get what you pay for.
Have a look at HID or HID conversions, I did a HID conversion on my old IPF and they turned out great, and a cheep alternative, and you can select the colour temperature
Less output than the FYRLYT. Less CRI. Delayed startup. Expensive bulb costs.
What can l say young man a great review,these days being a senior citizen l try to avoid night driving just in case some mad felah runs in front of me,saying that l do like them lights and just wondering are them lights easy to get of your vehicle and where abouts do you park at night.
I too get a bit excited when a new video comes out!
I went with the Kings $100 budget set of 9” lights, super bright.
Problem is so much of the light hits close to you because of the wide spread so when I have to dip them for oncoming cars it feels like I can’t see far at all.
and if there is a street sign anywhere you won’t see much except that sign because it reflects so badly.
I’m going back to halogen and maybe a light bar on the roof for when I want a solid floodlight
agreed on the common LED light colour, cool white, being way too harsh.. i actively seek out warm white led for camping lights these days.. just wish i could find em easier in LED or HID driving lights (i do love my 50w HID converted IPFs tho) .. great review 👍
Hey nice video! Have you considered testing the lightforce halogen line up? They're also an Aussie brand but are far cheaper than fyreliyt's halogens. I would love to see a comparison video!
Each to their own, I bought some really cheap lights for my rally car and then installed some cheap HID kits from ebay but found them so good I fitted them to my BT for long road trips , I always fit a bracket onto each light to stop the vibration and in your situation it might help the lights last longer and stop the movement, Regards Trevor
Good to finally see someone mention CRI. Next we need to talk about the human eyes bias for yellowish light. After all it evolved to see under one big yellow light. If your lights are so white/blue that they are making everything turn grey then that defeats the purpose. Watch this space. In 5 - 10 years time, mass produced warm LED driving lights will be smashing the market.
Spot on mate! :)
This dude has done some good practical research to show us that trendy cold light LEDs are not always the best solution for lighting.
And we'll see that soon, those bright blue/white LEDs on roadside lights will change to match the soft, easy on the eyes, glow that sodium lamps used to give us. Harsh changes from bright to dark confounds human eyes.
But ... sigh... getting the latest fashionable "brightest" light bars on your truck will be more profitable for the manufacturer...
Look into Optimal luminous efficiency. It is was the light intensity perception changes with the colour temp.
Silicone grease on the o-rings is definitely a good idea, but perhaps the manufacturer should have included a grub screw to secure the lens once it's in position to stop it rotating and falling out
He3 says not a good idea.
@@rodneyjones4890 Well as an experienced industrial electrician with many years working in explosive areas and dealing with o-rings, I know it IS a good idea.
I love my Kings laser spot lights, never had the kind of issues you had with those crappies.
Lol kings... No need to say anymore.
@@BoostedTJ So, what's so funny mate?
Great vid mate, very interesting re fatigue.
Any chance of some info on your Engel cradle setup ?
I keep thinking about getting some new spots but every time I start to think about what to get I have to remember that we are in camp by 4pm almost all the time. Probably marks me as an old fart but at least I don't collect native wildlife on the roo bar any more.
Good piece mate. I got learned on a few things.
Great video mate, I'm still running my 5 yr old set of halogen lightforce xgt's. Love the colour compared to the led or hid and I have a 50" curved led bar above my windscreen for slow offroad tracks. Cheap and simple lights!
To solve the problem with the lights dropping use a torque wrench and tighten them at about 50lb/in
Off topic but you ever going to come hit the high country in vic ?
2023 - upgraded to the MOFOs, the new Fyrlyts are monumental! Get some dude.
Thanks again for a great no nonsense review Michael. Always appreciate your honesty. Ive got a pair of rigid's on my ride. Excellent quality but so true the white light makes night driving strenuous on your eyes. I eventually switch them off to rest my eyes and leave on ther dually pods. Ive noticed they worst when it rains making everything look washed out. I am contemplating changing to hid but definitly not the fyrlights after your experiences. Maybe arb or someones else's. Just a thought dont u get led lights with say 3000k chips
Pod light advice? I have been running fyrlights on my blue BT-50 as well (snap) since 2015 and love your idea of adding the pod lights, particularly to get early skippy warning via eye shine. Do you have any advice on pod lights please? [sorry if you have addressed this elsewhere, I have just subscribed to your channel]
P.s. had same trouble with the lights dipping with bump and vibration and even lost a bolt in the Kimberley. I ended up finding a bolt that went through and through and used a nyloc nut to cinch it tight. This bush fix ended up working better than the original design
Thanks for enlightening vlog :-)
Stephen Kite boom boom
Tish...