Good job buddy. I zip tied the pull rod bracket to my frame slider. That rod is a bitch to get on the cover. I figured out the trick last night, a little swivel of the pull rod lever as you push it on. I keep the lever out just a notch then swivel it in as I push. I was in the same boat as you man. Frustrating!
Great video and details. Thank you for your time and effort, my oil pump is LEAKING through the weep hole, and it got worse is getting worse. I shall save the bike, big fix. Cheers!
so thankful I found this channel. You have one of the best photography how to's Ive seen for the Fz1!! Your lighting and also you have the camera up close. Most guys film a ways back however most UA-cam watchers are on a small screen hence really small picture. I have an 2001 FZ1 in near mint, just turned 20,000 miles. Do you know when the clutch should be replaced? thanks
Thank you. I don't think there's necessarily a time interval, but if you're noticing clutch slipping issues (even after oil change) or shuddering or erratic behavior, it may be time to take peek at it and see what's going on.
So you replaced the clutch basket with a new one and the whistle sound is still there? When i stethascope on my yxz1000 its the loudest right at the clutch cover just like you stated in the first video. 🤔
Hey, no problem, have you already tried adjusting the slack out of it at the handle bar lever? I think I cover it in the last part of the video. If you've already done that and cant get anymore slack out of it. You'll need to adjust it all the way back in at the lever adjustment, and then find the cable adjustment that is under the seat gas tank area, and adjust the slack out of it. And then go back and readjust the slack at the handle bar lever. If you're having trouble there is a PDF online that I use. Ill share the link. www.manualslib.com/manual/804564/Yamaha-2008-Fazer-Fz1-N.html?page=250#manual. If you’re not certain you’ve done it right. It’s best to pull it back apart and recheck. You don’t want to create an engine or transmission damaging situation or worse yet something to happen while riding it. If you had it adjusted right before you replaced the clutch and now it won’t go back. Double check your work to be certain.
@@grimsmotovlogs369 yep I did the adjustment at the lever just like you did. Maybe I should pull cover off and readjust, the arrow is slightly off with the dot. Your right the cover is rough :)
New subscriber here, I am waiting on stock clutch now 09 FZ1. Do I gotta remove clutch basket because that wire on the last plates? The wire seems hard to get off or on without removing basket? Thank you for the video so much!
Thank you so much for subscribing! It is not necessary to remove the basket. It can be tricky because you're limited on space. Using a longer, skinny, screw driver and needle nose pliers, or pick may help. I know I have seen R1 clutch videos where they've removed the wire clip with the basket still installed. Hopefully that helps.
@@grimsmotovlogs369 Thank you for the advice, that helps a lot ! I’m gonna get the needle nose and a pic kit from harbor freight. Trying to get another ride in before weather turns icy :) Thanks again brotha!
The photo copied /printed service manual I got on amazon or eBay , it has all types of silly mistakes in wording and spelling … under the stator section it’s headlined as stator , the throughout the process it’s then called the “ starter “ …which believe it or not f’ed me up briefly , not ever working on bikes before I thought maybe it was referring to a starter gear or something lol…it obviously in hind sight was a ridiculous typo or autocorrect mistake but man for a second I was confused lol
That lever measurement , does that take into account using aftermarket short levers ? I’m sure it’s close enough but imagine the free play measure,ent is for stock long levers …. Again sorry for comment craziness .I get into details when I’m trying learn new shit 🤷🏼♂️😜
You make a really good point. That may be why most manufacturers that I've come across have you check free play at the base, measuring gap. This is my first Yamaha, I ,myself, have worked on and I wont lie, I'm not a big fan of Yamaha right now.
@@grimsmotovlogs369 I’m sure you’re good either way It just struck me that u pointed out before about new levers …great job on the step by step videos btw
Probably some used non conformity synthetic oils and made complaints over issues …..and I think a business risk assessment department then says something to the effect to limit risk of being sued put a catch all warning on the product that way you’re covered….just a guess but seems like a good possibility .
Whoa snap on torque wrench ! Someone’s spent a pretty penny…. Bet it’s better than my harbor freight $19.99 on sale for each (1/4”,3/8”,1/2”)torque wrenchs hehe
Wait that’s a slipper clutch ? Sorry for comment barrage , I’m learning as I go so never seen slipper clutch (and only UA-cam stock fz1 clutch ) replacement…. My bike passed 30k miles so even if clutch was replaced b4 me it probably isn’t loNg till I’m doing this myself ….
Whoa I can’t Imagine getting that cover aligned …meaning glad you did show the process cause you’re correct no other fz1 clutch vid showed that struggle that I’ve seen …. The way it’s such tight tolerances and it (that push /pull rod thing) just flops around seems a nightmare .
I misspoke there, its not a slipper clutch design, I meant to just say that's just how a motorcycle clutch works. I didn't notice till you mentioned it. Lots of hours editing.. lol I'm turning into the Ebay service manual with all these errors. lmao
Good job buddy. I zip tied the pull rod bracket to my frame slider. That rod is a bitch to get on the cover. I figured out the trick last night, a little swivel of the pull rod lever as you push it on. I keep the lever out just a notch then swivel it in as I push. I was in the same boat as you man. Frustrating!
Great video and details. Thank you for your time and effort, my oil pump is LEAKING through the weep hole, and it got worse is getting worse. I shall save the bike, big fix. Cheers!
Thanks for sharing
Did you get a chance to replace it yet?
so thankful I found this channel. You have one of the best photography how to's Ive seen for the Fz1!! Your lighting and also you have the camera up close. Most guys film a ways back however most UA-cam watchers are on a small screen hence really small picture. I have an 2001 FZ1 in near mint, just turned 20,000 miles. Do you know when the clutch should be replaced? thanks
Thank you. I don't think there's necessarily a time interval, but if you're noticing clutch slipping issues (even after oil change) or shuddering or erratic behavior, it may be time to take peek at it and see what's going on.
So you replaced the clutch basket with a new one and the whistle sound is still there? When i stethascope on my yxz1000 its the loudest right at the clutch cover just like you stated in the first video. 🤔
The clutch cable is loose, after installing clutch. Do you know how to get back to normal?
Hey, no problem, have you already tried adjusting the slack out of it at the handle bar lever? I think I cover it in the last part of the video. If you've already done that and cant get anymore slack out of it. You'll need to adjust it all the way back in at the lever adjustment, and then find the cable adjustment that is under the seat gas tank area, and adjust the slack out of it. And then go back and readjust the slack at the handle bar lever. If you're having trouble there is a PDF online that I use. Ill share the link. www.manualslib.com/manual/804564/Yamaha-2008-Fazer-Fz1-N.html?page=250#manual.
If you’re not certain you’ve done it right. It’s best to pull it back apart and recheck. You don’t want to create an engine or transmission damaging situation or worse yet something to happen while riding it. If you had it adjusted right before you replaced the clutch and now it won’t go back. Double check your work to be certain.
@@grimsmotovlogs369 yep I did the adjustment at the lever just like you did. Maybe I should pull cover off and readjust, the arrow is slightly off with the dot. Your right the cover is rough :)
@@grimsmotovlogs369I’m gonna go double check it all, you are absolutely right about that.. thank you for the manual link also!
@@sonum1059 the cover is the hardest part of the job! hahah. Hopefully you can get it straight and get it out riding soon!
New subscriber here, I am waiting on stock clutch now 09 FZ1. Do I gotta remove clutch basket because that wire on the last plates? The wire seems hard to get off or on without removing basket? Thank you for the video so much!
Thank you so much for subscribing! It is not necessary to remove the basket. It can be tricky because you're limited on space. Using a longer, skinny, screw driver and needle nose pliers, or pick may help. I know I have seen R1 clutch videos where they've removed the wire clip with the basket still installed. Hopefully that helps.
@@grimsmotovlogs369 Thank you for the advice, that helps a lot ! I’m gonna get the needle nose and a pic kit from harbor freight. Trying to get another ride in before weather turns icy :) Thanks again brotha!
The photo copied /printed service manual I got on amazon or eBay , it has all types of silly mistakes in wording and spelling … under the stator section it’s headlined as stator , the throughout the process it’s then called the “ starter “ …which believe it or not f’ed me up briefly , not ever working on bikes before I thought maybe it was referring to a starter gear or something lol…it obviously in hind sight was a ridiculous typo or autocorrect mistake but man for a second I was confused lol
Wow that is crazy! I bet that through you for a loop for a bit haha
That lever measurement , does that take into account using aftermarket short levers ? I’m sure it’s close enough but imagine the free play measure,ent is for stock long levers …. Again sorry for comment craziness .I get into details when I’m trying learn new shit 🤷🏼♂️😜
You make a really good point. That may be why most manufacturers that I've come across have you check free play at the base, measuring gap. This is my first Yamaha, I ,myself, have worked on and I wont lie, I'm not a big fan of Yamaha right now.
@@grimsmotovlogs369 I’m sure you’re good either way It just struck me that u pointed out before about new levers …great job on the step by step videos btw
I greatly appreciate your continued support!
Probably some used non conformity synthetic oils and made complaints over issues …..and I think a business risk assessment department then says something to the effect to limit risk of being sued put a catch all warning on the product that way you’re covered….just a guess but seems like a good possibility .
Whoa snap on torque wrench ! Someone’s spent a pretty penny…. Bet it’s better than my harbor freight $19.99 on sale for each (1/4”,3/8”,1/2”)torque wrenchs hehe
Wait that’s a slipper clutch ? Sorry for comment barrage , I’m learning as I go so never seen slipper clutch (and only UA-cam stock fz1 clutch ) replacement…. My bike passed 30k miles so even if clutch was replaced b4 me it probably isn’t loNg till I’m doing this myself ….
Whoa I can’t Imagine getting that cover aligned …meaning glad you did show the process cause you’re correct no other fz1 clutch vid showed that struggle that I’ve seen …. The way it’s such tight tolerances and it (that push /pull rod thing) just flops around seems a nightmare .
yeah... Snap on got me hahaha It gets good use at work so that's how I justify it lmao
I misspoke there, its not a slipper clutch design, I meant to just say that's just how a motorcycle clutch works. I didn't notice till you mentioned it. Lots of hours editing.. lol I'm turning into the Ebay service manual with all these errors. lmao
the stock clutch pull is already too heavy i already replaced my springs for stock oem ones. still stiff im waiting for my new cable. hope that helps
Are you using stock springs with this same kit? Hopefully the cable helps.
@@grimsmotovlogs369 indeed factory yamaha parts only