Never, ever, ever, ever, ever re-use those pinch bolts on the ball joints. They are one time use only and they will cause a massive headache if you live in the rust belt. Also, don't wedge a chisel in the gap because it can warp where the ball joint seats and it'll seem like it's never correctly tightened.
Thanks for the vid. Not a difficult thing to do but my son's Crosstrek had a clunk from that rear bushing being totally broken at 185k miles. We thought it was the shock top mount, so replaced the shock assemblies complete, but the clunk remained. I turned the wheel and my son said "I know what it is" and I came to look and sure enough, the bushing was toast. Ordered using your links. Hope you get a cut on those.
Thank you for posting the torque values, parts links, tool list and links. Wish you had included a reasonably priced DIY level grease gun and the chisel you used. One commenter mentioned he would not use a chisel but did not give an alternative and that you should use a fresh pinch bolt. Is this a standard bolt or a specialty part?
Thanks for the kind words. I have edited the description of this video to include a link to an OEM pinch bolt. I have read that people have had seized bolts and have broken the bolt while trying to remove the bolt. So, several days of spraying and respraying the bolt with penetrating oil is helpful. Using heat is also recommended. I also included a link to a cold chisel set as well, even though this is not recommended by that specific mechanic you mentioned. Any inexpensive grease gun with a zirc fitting attachment should work. I can't recommend a new one since I own a very old one, so I hesitate posting a link to a product I don't know anything about.
Thanks for the very informative and helpful video! You make things very simple and easy to understand. My Crosstrek is the same year, same mileage, and same deterioration on the bushings. Just ordered my control arms and will be doing this job soon before a long cross country road trip! Subscribed!
You can remove the ball joint from the knuckle easy peasy like in about 10 seconds if you go in from the top down with an air hammer just put your impact surface of the air hammer on top of the control arm a few inches from the ball joint and hit it about 5 seconds with a good air hammer, it'll come out like gravy, even in the rust belt called Chicago.... Ohh but be sure to wear hearing protection or keep your head out of the wheel well when air hammering the noise is extremely loud to the point you can feel the hammer pressure on your ear drums... NOT GOOD for your hearing.
Thank you so much for this video, it walked me through the whole process. The one thing I initially didn't follow was to sand (dremel) out the ball joint housing - I spent a lot of time trying to get it to seat before I went back and did that. The second one even went in with a mallet. Also, at one point I popped out the CV axle and the ball joint was about one inch off of the housing, this video helped to get it back in place. ua-cam.com/video/PKQ2OWh9kcE/v-deo.html
This is a great step by step. I am going to do this tomorrow and Im sure I will be replaying this on many occasions. Is it essential to torque the suspension at the end, Im taking it for a professional wheel alignment after I replace both control arms anyway?
Be sure to torque it as they won't torque those components, normally, during an alignment. Alternatively, you can ask the alignment shop to go over those components for you.
I have a 2002 Land Cruiser and a 2006 Tribeca. The featherweight Tribeca suspension is frightening. The hubs failed at 80k. The LCA’s failed at 120k. I don’t believe Subaru is the quality, safety brand they go on about. A vehicle that makes you remove the front bumper to replace headlights is absurd. The clips positioned with impossibly short wires to quick blow H7 halogen bulbs. I added LEDs, extended the wires and added decoders. I also removed the three hidden screws under the headlights so the lights enclosures can be removed with two bolts. Great video but under engineered. IMO.
I appreciate the video, great camera work especially compared to mine! But a fancy watch while working? And never have I ever seen someone use a cheater so often! If you worked on GM you'd have that 18mm! Now I have good idea on the process, thanks!
Amazing video I’ve seen a lot of control arm videos this by far is the best for someone trying it out! Great tip on the penetrating spray! Will definitely be hitting it a week before and then a couple days before just to avoid any nonsense 😂
Thanks for the great video, it's very helpful! I'm planning on performing same job on my daughter's 2014 and curious how the replacement Moog parts are holding up. Do you have any updates?
How would you recommend separating the ball joint on a Crosstrek with a 1.5" strut spacer lift? The control arm is pushed all the way down giving no room to knock it out with wood and hammer.
@@PatsGarageOnline I just ended up using the chisel and jack on the bottom rotor to lift it while banging. It came out but my cv axle also popped out along with it... 😩
I would set aside an entire day to do this if you had no mechanical experience. That way you can take your time and Google things to help you get it done right. I've never replaced control arms on anything before so it wasn't a complicated job tut it took a few hours for me to do it with the right tools and mechanical experience.
First off, we all want to know why Allana isn't rocking some Pat's swag! Allana come onnnnnn!!!!!! I kid. Another brilliant video of things I absolutely know I have know business doing myself!.
This is the problem with aftermarket LCAs. They are not to Subaru specs exactly and today those Moog LCAs are manufactured to worse tolerances. I only use oem parts on my Subaru.
I had these control arms replaced on my 14 Crosstrek with the moog parts. Now it’s squeeking and groaning front front left. Especially when the incline changes or I’m turning wheel. What could be the issue? We’re they not installed properly? I looked underneath and it all looks fine and bolts are tight
I’m doing the rear upper control arm on the same year, do you know what torque specs for the 2 bolt that attaches to the rear subframe? great video by the way
Never, ever, ever, ever, ever re-use those pinch bolts on the ball joints. They are one time use only and they will cause a massive headache if you live in the rust belt. Also, don't wedge a chisel in the gap because it can warp where the ball joint seats and it'll seem like it's never correctly tightened.
Whyyyyyyy would you put loctite on rusty/corroded suspension bolts? Good luck to the next person that needs to replace those parts.
Just quoted over 1200$ for L/R arms. What a rip off. Doing it myself for 200$
Subaru dealership near me quoted my wife $1260 to get those replaced.
I love a man who knows his torque values and parts
Just got quoted $1,500 for lower control arms and sway bar endlinks. Definitely think I’m going to do this instead.
Need more crosstrek videos 🤟🏽🤟🏽 very helpful
Also, when you jack up the ball joint, make sure you're not lifting your car off the jack stands or lift.
Thanks for the vid. Not a difficult thing to do but my son's Crosstrek had a clunk from that rear bushing being totally broken at 185k miles. We thought it was the shock top mount, so replaced the shock assemblies complete, but the clunk remained. I turned the wheel and my son said "I know what it is" and I came to look and sure enough, the bushing was toast. Ordered using your links. Hope you get a cut on those.
Sorry to hear that you also had a bushing failure. Thanks for use of the links. It helps support my channel. Cheers!
Thank you for posting the torque values, parts links, tool list and links. Wish you had included a reasonably priced DIY level grease gun and the chisel you used. One commenter mentioned he would not use a chisel but did not give an alternative and that you should use a fresh pinch bolt. Is this a standard bolt or a specialty part?
Thanks for the kind words. I have edited the description of this video to include a link to an OEM pinch bolt. I have read that people have had seized bolts and have broken the bolt while trying to remove the bolt. So, several days of spraying and respraying the bolt with penetrating oil is helpful. Using heat is also recommended. I also included a link to a cold chisel set as well, even though this is not recommended by that specific mechanic you mentioned. Any inexpensive grease gun with a zirc fitting attachment should work. I can't recommend a new one since I own a very old one, so I hesitate posting a link to a product I don't know anything about.
Best control arm video I have seen. Been trying to get that ball joint in for 4 hours tho. You make it look so easy!
Prodemand say 2.6 hrs. for both LCA.
Is this the same for the 2018 model?
Why doesn’t he use his breaker bar or impact driver instead of the pipe and ratchet so he doesn’t break his ratchet drive.?
If I know the bolt was torqued so high that it could hurt the ratchet, I'd use the breaker bar. Been putting a pipe on this ratchet since 1998.
Thanks for the very informative and helpful video! You make things very simple and easy to understand. My Crosstrek is the same year, same mileage, and same deterioration on the bushings. Just ordered my control arms and will be doing this job soon before a long cross country road trip! Subscribed!
Thank you for the kind words!
Loctites definitely throwing me off but great info!
You can remove the ball joint from the knuckle easy peasy like in about 10 seconds if you go in from the top down with an air hammer just put your impact surface of the air hammer on top of the control arm a few inches from the ball joint and hit it about 5 seconds with a good air hammer, it'll come out like gravy, even in the rust belt called Chicago.... Ohh but be sure to wear hearing protection or keep your head out of the wheel well when air hammering the noise is extremely loud to the point you can feel the hammer pressure on your ear drums... NOT GOOD for your hearing.
Thank you so much for this video, it walked me through the whole process. The one thing I initially didn't follow was to sand (dremel) out the ball joint housing - I spent a lot of time trying to get it to seat before I went back and did that. The second one even went in with a mallet. Also, at one point I popped out the CV axle and the ball joint was about one inch off of the housing, this video helped to get it back in place. ua-cam.com/video/PKQ2OWh9kcE/v-deo.html
This is a great step by step. I am going to do this tomorrow and Im sure I will be replaying this on many occasions.
Is it essential to torque the suspension at the end, Im taking it for a professional wheel alignment after I replace both control arms anyway?
Be sure to torque it as they won't torque those components, normally, during an alignment. Alternatively, you can ask the alignment shop to go over those components for you.
What are the symptoms of the bad control arm bushing(s)? Thanks. Great video. Subscribed.
The car may pull due to alignment becoming bad over time, you can get a vibration, and the dry rotting will be visible. Thank you!
I have a 2002 Land Cruiser and a 2006 Tribeca. The featherweight Tribeca suspension is frightening. The hubs failed at 80k. The LCA’s failed at 120k. I don’t believe Subaru is the quality, safety brand they go on about. A vehicle that makes you remove the front bumper to replace headlights is absurd. The clips positioned with impossibly short wires to quick blow H7 halogen bulbs. I added LEDs, extended the wires and added decoders. I also removed the three hidden screws under the headlights so the lights enclosures can be removed with two bolts. Great video but under engineered. IMO.
I like videos with Alana
You can get a socket to separate the gap instead of a cold chisel just put the nib in the gap then open with a ratchet .
No UGGA DUGGA Needed😂😂😂😂
How are the moog control arms holding up ?
@@shahsmerdis we sold it a few months ago but it was doing well before we sold it
Good video. need to do this to my Forester XT. More confident after watching this
I appreciate the video, great camera work especially compared to mine! But a fancy watch while working? And never have I ever seen someone use a cheater so often! If you worked on GM you'd have that 18mm!
Now I have good idea on the process, thanks!
Great video ! My stepson has a 2019 Impreza with the same problem, so the info from your video will help a lot to replace the worn out parts.
Excellent tutorial. Very clear and helpful.
But, if you can swing Snap On tools, you can probably shell out for a Harbor Freight breaker bar.
How did you heat pinch bolt ? The rubber boots are very close to it
A small propane torch will work. Just keep the fire away from the flammable parts.
@@PatsGarageOnline It's very helpful . Thanks a lot
Amazing video I’ve seen a lot of control arm videos this by far is the best for someone trying it out! Great tip on the penetrating spray! Will definitely be hitting it a week before and then a couple days before just to avoid any nonsense 😂
Mods coming to Alana's Crosstrek!?? Hahaha
Big wang!
Thanks for the great video, it's very helpful! I'm planning on performing same job on my daughter's 2014 and curious how the replacement Moog parts are holding up. Do you have any updates?
Thank you! Everything is operating perfectly. Parts are still good as new after 10k miles..
Awesome instruction and great video! Keep up the great work.
If the vehicle was aligned before doing this procedure, is it necessary to do an alignment afterwards?
I would recommend having it aligned because when the bushings wear out it does affect the alignment
What is the MOOG part number? I'm having issues locating them..
I listed the part numbers in the description.
Very nice and informative and educational video
How would you recommend separating the ball joint on a Crosstrek with a 1.5" strut spacer lift? The control arm is pushed all the way down giving no room to knock it out with wood and hammer.
Maybe a ball joint splitter? I'm not sure what to recommend outside of that.
@@PatsGarageOnline I just ended up using the chisel and jack on the bottom rotor to lift it while banging. It came out but my cv axle also popped out along with it... 😩
@@studiomtn oh, sorry to hear that!
What kind of lift is that?
Quickjack. I also have a video review of it on my channel.
@@PatsGarageOnline thanks a lot! Great video btw!
How long would u say it took to replace it. If u do this by yourself. With minimum mechanical experience.
I would set aside an entire day to do this if you had no mechanical experience. That way you can take your time and Google things to help you get it done right. I've never replaced control arms on anything before so it wasn't a complicated job tut it took a few hours for me to do it with the right tools and mechanical experience.
Took me over a day because rust made a mess of everything.
Whats the torque for the castle nut in the ball joint?
37 ft-lbs. I also put this in the video description.
Thank you 🙏
First off, we all want to know why Allana isn't rocking some Pat's swag! Allana come onnnnnn!!!!!!
I kid.
Another brilliant video of things I absolutely know I have know business doing myself!.
I don't see you wearing my swag, except for that one time... 😂
Well done 👍🏻
This is the problem with aftermarket LCAs. They are not to Subaru specs exactly and today those Moog LCAs are manufactured to worse tolerances. I only use oem parts on my Subaru.
doh. just ordered Moog on their past reputation
I had these control arms replaced on my 14 Crosstrek with the moog parts. Now it’s squeeking and groaning front front left. Especially when the incline changes or I’m turning wheel. What could be the issue? We’re they not installed properly? I looked underneath and it all looks fine and bolts are tight
I wouldn't suspect that it was the control arms making those sounds. Could be another suspension part causing that. I would have it looked at.
Great video. You showed all the details. God job Alana.
Do you know if you can replace just the bushings on this crosstrek control arms?
I didn't check into this.
I wonder how many swear words you used behind camera
Only 2 on this one 😂
I’m doing the rear upper control arm on the same year, do you know what torque specs for the 2 bolt that attaches to the rear subframe? great video by the way
@@mehnlo you'd have to Google that. I have no experience on the rear arms.
If bad, does this cause vibration on the wheel attached to it?
It could. That's one symptom.
Thanks Pat for other great video, Nice Touch with Allana in helping you..
Would this cause "clunking" at low speeds over bumps?
Any suspension issues can cause that. It might be your control arms. Check the bushing for deterioration.
Need to do this so my crosstrek soon. Thanks for the very informative video
These model Subarus are such trash. Good video though.
Another great class Professor Pat! I think you need a C6 GS Vette to teach some of us about. 😉 Save the Wave 🙋♂
Dude, the girl gets almost no screen time and almost 10 words the whole time. But, who cares, the pigtails!