@@johndejong7036 I just did the brakes on a friends car. He failed to tell me it lived most of it's life in Minnesota. Holy crap, do you guys just replace you calipers and rotors every year along with the pads? That was a bunch of no fun...
@@PeatyR We have to go over the caliper pad holder piece with an wire brush, wipe off dust and then spray paint. Also brake pad clip hardware has to be replaced before next pads due to corrosion from the salt in winter. I currently own an Outback that sadly had one of the puds get stuck and couldn't slide properly. That pad is nearly worn down to metal. Good thing in my case, an owner before the seller of the car had the calipers themselves replaced. Here in the rust belt, always use WD-40 or similar on bolts or else some will just snap. I've personally learned through owning cars 12 years or older that a slow firm impact with a extra long breaker bar is better for rust coated bolts than a impact gun. Credit to Subaru for using great bolt hardware that lasts.
I just completed this repair. Thank you so very much again. This should be a recall. I spoke to the dealership in Johnson City and they had already changed somewhere in the hundreds. MOST IMPORTANT!! The AC drain tube is probably the main cause of the right side failing. It drips directly onto the bushing causing evaporation and deterioration of the oils in the rubber. Move it aside.
Huh. Just took my 08 NA for its 100k maint headgaskets water pump etc. I noticed that the AC was wayyyy colder on the passenger side than the driver side. They did confirm there was a leak and topped off the refrigerant for me. They also found a right arm bushing needed replacing of course.
thanks! my '15 forester needed to have the front LCAs replaced earlier this year and had to shell out $1k for the job. what you mentioned about AC drain tube is correct: two weeks ago I did the oil change myself, I found the AC drain tube is right above the LCA on the passenger side and water is dripping out.
Harbor Freight has a cup-bearing press kit I've used on 4 Subaru's bushing with no problem. Now if I was doing this every day or even a week, I might buy a more expensive one, but snap on $700, ah no..love the videos.
Thanks for producing this video. Very informative and skillfully done. I might add that if you know of a local machinists' shop, a lot of those guys will press out/in the bearings for not that much money, so if you're a DIYer then you can skip that step and just have to worry about reinstalling the control arm. Cheers.
A big thanks mate. Your videos are great for those of us who work outside on our subies! clear , straight forward, no b.s. from a subscriber in Australia 🇦🇺
Great video... I opted for the whole control arm assembly from Rock Auto for around $65.00. New bushings and ball joint included. Snap to replace both sides. Love your videos, and saved a boat load from Snap-on.
I do pretty much all the maintenance on my 2016 Crosstrek and 2019 Forester. I have used aftermarket and OEM parts in the past and I can say with confidence that it is almost always worth buying the OEM Subaru part. Their quality far surpasses almost all aftermarket parts I have used in the past
I've been wondering what to do about an aftermarket controller arm and bushing..I tend to always use OEM just because of quality and fitment, but I'm sure tempted not to on this one. Still pondering..
Excellent video, nice tool, great point on loading suspension to torque bushings. On install in the words of a wise old mechanic, "don't use your hand for a hammer!"
I was going to replace my shocks and rims on my car and I had seen these are cracked on my 2008 wrx sti so now I have to do this first. Very informative video, thank you boss!
I just bought the same type of Snap-on accessory cups except for Hondas & Acuras. $320 in my case. Phew! I don’t have a BJP-1, but I think (hope) they will work with my less expensive ball joint press. Only one way to find out.... I don’t have a lift, so I hope to flee. Some tips from your procedure on how I might make mine easier, smoother on jack stands. As always, thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience. There’s always something to learn!
Thanks for doing this video. I was on vacation with the family and started getting a bad vibration when driving straight at highway speed. Checked the bushings and the smaller front bushing was toast. Couldn’t get into a shop anywhere for days and I had all the basic tools with me except a ball peen hammer. Hit up the parts store and got the lower control arm with bushings and ball joint and took on the project in the hotel parking lot. Took about 2 hours, the biggest pain was getting the ball joint to drop out of the knuckle even after letting some PB Blaster soak in over night.
Thank you for going through and listing out all the torque specs on all the bolts, my service manual didn't have the rear bracket-body and rear bracket support torque specs so this helps tremendously!!
Thanks for the video and now once the warmer weather comes here in New England I will have a job to do. One hint would to put some anti seize on those studs threads so the next time they will come off a lot easier. Thanks again
4 роки тому+8
I can only replace windshield wiper fluid. Lol. I find these videos amazing. It is so cool that you can do such significant repairs in one person even outside a proper garage.
I had a mechanic in Tennessee agree to install the OEM bushings into the original front lower control arm on2009 Subaru legacy 3.0r. He managed to destroy the bushing mount, sourced the arms from O'Reilly's, which I only found out when I had to pay the bill. I'll give you a bargain price on 4 bushings and 2 ball joints. Didn't bother to save the Subaru arms to decide if I wanted them. I guess it wasn't good enough that it was a total gut of the front suspension. But wait, there's more! Installed 4 high end Continental tires, but neglected to tell me he isn't equipped to do an alignment. Pay for alignment with a picture of a sheared brand new sway bar end link, and caster off half degree. Rear cross chamber increased to .8 degree trying to force the front. Strut/spring aftermarket matched adjustable damping japanese set up. First look at front mounts, diagnosis... Missing conical washer. Failure on both mounts. Complete disassembly, inspection, replace, reassembly. I can't get back to North Carolina fast enough.
I had to cut it short as soon as u said don't attempt this.all I needed to hear. Liked n commented for ya. I appreciate not watching a 20 min video just to b told that, 16 mins in
Great video. Thanks! I've replaced the LCA's twice on my 220k 08 OBW because both times, the rear bushings were worn and torn. They seem to be the only parts that wear out (other than rust in the rust belt). $16 for a pair of bushings compared to $80 for a pair of LCA's (or $160 for Mevotechs) is a good deal. You could rent (free) a ball joint press and adapters from a local parts store like Autozone or OReilly. I just replaced mine with new LCA's but I'll remember this in another 100k miles.
Great video. What is the OD of the Snap On cup ram tool you used (BJP1-43A)? Snap On says 71.88mm OD but the Subaru lower bushing diameter is only 60mm. Something is not right. I plan to install some Superpro poly bushings in my Subaru. Thanks. Edit. The correct OD of the BJP1-43A ram cup is 58.9mm. Snap On catalog has a typo. There is a small lip on one end of the cup that contacts the bushing and fits perfect. Edit: I used the universal press and pull sleeve kit (amazon $120) and installed a bushing from Superpro USA instead of the crappy Subaru OEM. the press kit comes with several silver colored press cups to remove and install the large front lower control arm bushing. I also replaced the smaller forward bushing but used a 25mm deep impact socket with an OD of 36.5mm or 1-7/16" since the kit did not have this size cup.
I watched this video the day it aired. Took forester in to have airbag replaced. When they did the inspection told me that the bushine and ball joint was bad. I guess ill start buying parts and refer to this video when I go to do it. (will be using your press video as well)
Subaru does offer a loaded control arm (both bushings, ball joint, castle nut, and lock pin), at least for some applications. The official online parts catalog could be clearer - the diagram shows it but the part description does not explain it. Dealers using the Revolution Parts catalog system seem to detail it correctly though. I had worn LCA bushings on an '09 Forester and and ended up using loaded control arms on both sides (20202SC011 and 20202SC002)
I live in the southwest desert, no rust or salt eaten metal here either, no hate from me. But I used to live in NY and Maine, it's terrible what the roads do to cars there
I live in Oregon and just did the control arm bushings and wheel bearings on a friends Buick that came from Michigan. Ball joint was so rusted in there and was not coming off I didn’t want to mess it up so I just unbolted the strut tower and tie rod and took the control arm, strut, and knuckle out and pushed out bushings while control arm was still connected to the knuckle by the ball joint. Was a lot faster than trying to get the ball joint out lol.
That Subaru must have hopped like a rabbit. AT-205 Re-Seal is your bushing friend. Spraying my bushings about every 12,000 miles helped my front control arm bushings on my 2015 Forester last about 1.75 times more miles than just looking at them and doing nothing. I never bothered replacing just the bushing. I replaced the entire control arm each time. More expensive. But you get a new EVERYTHING. New ball joint too. I love starting from 0 on the miles.
I just had 4 bushings, 2 control arms, 2 swivels, a rear spring, a/c relay, oil change and tire repair and this came to $2000. Sounds like the parts were cheap and most of the cost was labor. I know I got jipped but unless you have the tools and the know how, you have to pay to be safe on the road.
Great video. I would personally replace that right control arm. It’s split and separating at the ball joint area. If you aren’t in a rust prone part of the country it may not matter.
The NVH (noise, vibration and harhness) folks probably had the final say on the elastomeric design (degradation). You do a great job with only two hands available!
One of our nationwide suspension parts suppliers in Australia sells complete control arms with bushings and ball joint installed for less money than a new bushing would cost to install in labour time.
I just did this job on my 08 Tribeca in my driveway. I did the rear bushing with a steel ring I kept from when I did the rear end bushings. I put that over a control arm that I had from another vehicle that had a mounted bolt. I put the bushing over the bolt then the steel ring, ten I used a piece of steel with a hole cut in it to sit on top of the ring then just tightened a nut down and it popped it right out. Pressing it in I just used a vice . The ball joint I took the hub off cause I snapped the pinch bolt, drilled it out . Then pressed out the ball joint with a reciever cup and the steel piece I had with the hole in it and put the nut on and tightened it down. Came right out. Now I just have to press the new one in lol
Love Your Videos Sooo Much!! Been at the Subaru factory in Indiana since they opened and it does sadden me when we seem to be having inferior components in the vehicles. Not necessarily in every case,but in major suspension components just be aware that a number of years ago FHI corporate instituted an awe inspiring safety directive of zero fatalities. With the new offset impact tests etc. / the continuous compromise in engineering to preserve crumple zones should not impede long term component reliability. So sorry some of our stuff isn't perfect. Even with big brother Toyota in our backyard, we are still a tiny company. David does not always beat Goliath!!! Mr. Subaru your awesome. Want a plant tour some day. Let us know / just to show ya how hard we're tryin. Thanks
You mentioned a trip to the Blue Ridge Parkway. I can watch the cars go by on a section if that Parkway from my kitchen window. Small world. WNC is definitely Subaru country! Very popular around here.
Easy to see why a specialty tool is used, that bushing sleeve is narrow so the installation hardware would need an exact diameter. Once the old one is out I suppose one could modify the old sleeve to help drive the new one in.
1. Take a vice. (Or whatever this thingy that you put stuff in, to hold it, is called) it can work as a press 2. Carefully measure diameter of the bushing. 3. Buy a cheap ball bearing of roughly the same size. Grind it down to ideal outer diameter. 4. Remove, press bushing with a vice. Most of diy guys have a vice. Ball bearing is few moneys (€/£/$). I purchased a vice specifically for this job, cheap one is 60€ in Europe.
Also I’m in Maryland and the entire subframe of my 2005 impreza is rusted out through the black paint I’m going to replace it but it’s really a hassle what salt does to cars on the east coast
Here in Wisconsin this car would be considered to be in mint condition as far as the rust goes. Not hating just jealous cause every single car I work on is a crusty bucket
Man I’m glad I saw man I have a 2019 Impreza with like 18k miles only and these bushings on my car already starting to show fatigue. Wonder if there’s an upgrade for it
I had my Subaru main dealer replace all four bushings yesterday. They were completely shot. The difference with the new ones is literally night and day. 👍
Thank you so much for the excellent video! I really appreciate the detailed guidance on replacing the bushings. My 2016 Forester is 8 years old and has been in the New England area, where the OEM bushings were replaced about 4 years ago. Lately, I've been noticing some occasional wheel wobbling on the highway, and I'm hoping to address this issue this month before the weather turns cold. If you don't mind, could I kindly ask for your advice? Based on your experience with factory OEM control arms, how many times would you recommend replacing the bushings before considering a full control arm replacement? And after one bushing replacement, is it still advisable to continue with just bushing replacements, or would you suggest replacing the entire assembly? Thank you again for sharing your expertise!
Do I have my conversions correct for the weight in American Pounds? Rear Control Arm Bushing (Torque Spec = 110.6195 Ft Lbs) Front Control Nut & Bolt (Torque Spec = 70.0590 Ft Lbs) Ball Joint Hitch Bolt (Torque Spec = 36.8780 Ft Lbs) Sway Bar In Late (Torque Spec = 191.7404 Ft Lbs)
I brought my control arms to a local shop to get them swapped... The owner didn't have proper attachments for a press; respect. Ar lease he said he can't do it... Second shop did it but, butchered orientation despite my clear markings... WTF? I hate to tell any mechanic how to the job...
great videos and info!...thanks!...i am having an issue with my rear tires being cocked in at the top causing wear on the inside of the tires (2013 legacy 2.5i)...i am going to replace the rear struts this weekend...could these bushings or the control arms be causing the tires to be cocked inward at the top?
supposedly subaru switched to that style of bushing as give better vibration absorption . certainly don't last well, although not big deal replace . DIY guys can buy a cup and forcing screw set for doing bushings, can be had around 100 bucks mark, you can even make your own cups if wanted and use the screw from a old mechanical car jack or similar . They pretty easy bushes multi drill the rubber out then cut the metal sleeve to remove . Looked like nice day be outside , another job jobbed ...
Robert, I understand the savings if you’re just going to replace this particular bushing, but at 150k miles and having all the labor involved in removing the lower control arm, wouldn’t it be prudent to replace the other bushing and the ball joint? And, given the price of these three parts, just replace the entire lower control arm assembly? Given the bushings are about $25 each…and the ball joint another $48…and the entire assembly about $100 and no labor involved in removing and pressing in the wear parts… Well, you get my point.
I need to replace mine in the rear of my baja. I wonder if the 05-09 outback bushing will fit the same. And, I wonder if there's a cheaper version of that press tool. that'll be something I can use quite often since my whole family has a subaru. haha
I drive a 2019 subaru crosstrek the dealership advised me that I should have my bushings replaced at 30k miles. I took a look at the bushings myself I didn't see any deformations to the bushings. Just got cautionary purpose should I have them replaced anyway before a install a 2" lift?
You are correct sir, we hate you. I have taken to filling the pinch gap with clear silicone after installing the new pinch bolts. My theory is that the salt water gets into this joint to corrode the pinch bolt into place. We will see what happens in a few years when I have to take one off again.
@@AnginKeras So far, I haven't had to replace any a second time before selling them. I did inspect one doing brakes later, and the silicone was still intact a year later.
Do any of the oem front and rear bushings, ball joints, sway bar links ect. on your store front page work for the 04 Subaru outback h6 sedan. Im trying to replace alot on it and the dealership is trying to charge alot for the exact same parts.
Bought the LCA for my 2017 Forester from Napa Autoparts but the ball joint is not sealed. It has a tiny hole that I’m assuming is to grease. It also comes with a tiny screw to cap off. Do these ball joints typically come pre-greased? If so, would it be safe to thread in the tiny screw and install the LCA?
Question about the lower link (i know the video is old sorry) i’ve seen a lot of forums say there is no camber adjust on the rear of these, but there is a concentric washer on the lower linkage. I just replaced the upper link but there still seems to be a bit of camber out. Wondering if you could give any pointers on that.
I like how as soon as you took that lower ball joint bolt out you immediately said “yeah the rust belt guys gonna hate me” you aren’t lying haha
Northern Minnesotans are jealous as well.
Or on tik tok ect when they take out the speed sensor bolt and the actual sensor itself just slides out...yeah right lmfao
@@johndejong7036 I just did the brakes on a friends car. He failed to tell me it lived most of it's life in Minnesota. Holy crap, do you guys just replace you calipers and rotors every year along with the pads? That was a bunch of no fun...
@@PeatyR The calipers last a little while, but they may seize. The real problem comes with ANY kind of nut/bolt or compression fitting.
@@PeatyR We have to go over the caliper pad holder piece with an wire brush, wipe off dust and then spray paint. Also brake pad clip hardware has to be replaced before next pads due to corrosion from the salt in winter. I currently own an Outback that sadly had one of the puds get stuck and couldn't slide properly. That pad is nearly worn down to metal. Good thing in my case, an owner before the seller of the car had the calipers themselves replaced.
Here in the rust belt, always use WD-40 or similar on bolts or else some will just snap. I've personally learned through owning cars 12 years or older that a slow firm impact with a extra long breaker bar is better for rust coated bolts than a impact gun. Credit to Subaru for using great bolt hardware that lasts.
I just completed this repair. Thank you so very much again.
This should be a recall. I spoke to the dealership in Johnson City and they had already changed somewhere in the hundreds.
MOST IMPORTANT!!
The AC drain tube is probably the main cause of the right side failing. It drips directly onto the bushing causing evaporation and deterioration of the oils in the rubber. Move it aside.
Huh. Just took my 08 NA for its 100k maint headgaskets water pump etc. I noticed that the AC was wayyyy colder on the passenger side than the driver side. They did confirm there was a leak and topped off the refrigerant for me. They also found a right arm bushing needed replacing of course.
@@RobustMustache Thanks for the info! I'm gonna make a file of this because honestly yeah, it should be a recall.
thanks! my '15 forester needed to have the front LCAs replaced earlier this year and had to shell out $1k for the job. what you mentioned about AC drain tube is correct: two weeks ago I did the oil change myself, I found the AC drain tube is right above the LCA on the passenger side and water is dripping out.
Good info to have for sure about the AC slippage. My rear bushing is shot to hell, it's way uglier than Mr Subaru's victim!
Harbor Freight has a cup-bearing press kit I've used on 4 Subaru's bushing with no problem. Now if I was doing this every day or even a week, I might buy a more expensive one, but snap on $700, ah no..love the videos.
You are one of my favorite Subaru channels. Trustworthy and reliable! Appreciate your work!
These videos are fantastic and the best part is Mr. Subaru always provides the torque values! Thank you!
Thanks for producing this video. Very informative and skillfully done. I might add that if you know of a local machinists' shop, a lot of those guys will press out/in the bearings for not that much money, so if you're a DIYer then you can skip that step and just have to worry about reinstalling the control arm. Cheers.
A big thanks mate. Your videos are great for those of us who work outside on our subies! clear , straight forward, no b.s. from a subscriber in Australia 🇦🇺
Great video... I opted for the whole control arm assembly from Rock Auto for around $65.00. New bushings and ball joint included. Snap to replace both sides. Love your videos, and saved a boat load from Snap-on.
I do pretty much all the maintenance on my 2016 Crosstrek and 2019 Forester. I have used aftermarket and OEM parts in the past and I can say with confidence that it is almost always worth buying the OEM Subaru part. Their quality far surpasses almost all aftermarket parts I have used in the past
I've been wondering what to do about an aftermarket controller arm and bushing..I tend to always use OEM just because of quality and fitment, but I'm sure tempted not to on this one. Still pondering..
Excellent video, nice tool, great point on loading suspension to torque bushings. On install in the words of a wise old mechanic, "don't use your hand for a hammer!"
Well damn. I was told the bushings weren’t serviceable so I installed a new control arm. But at 10 years old in New York, it came out super easy.
Very much appreciate you taking the time to explain the bushing orientation details. Thanks!
I was going to replace my shocks and rims on my car and I had seen these are cracked on my 2008 wrx sti so now I have to do this first. Very informative video, thank you boss!
Just did bushings on an A5 and damn that tool is better than a press and C clamp it’s like they had a baby
I just bought the same type of Snap-on accessory cups except for Hondas & Acuras. $320 in my case. Phew!
I don’t have a BJP-1, but I think (hope) they will work with my less expensive ball joint press. Only one way to find out....
I don’t have a lift, so I hope to flee. Some tips from your procedure on how I might make mine easier, smoother on jack stands.
As always, thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience. There’s always something to learn!
Thanks for doing this video. I was on vacation with the family and started getting a bad vibration when driving straight at highway speed. Checked the bushings and the smaller front bushing was toast. Couldn’t get into a shop anywhere for days and I had all the basic tools with me except a ball peen hammer. Hit up the parts store and got the lower control arm with bushings and ball joint and took on the project in the hotel parking lot. Took about 2 hours, the biggest pain was getting the ball joint to drop out of the knuckle even after letting some PB Blaster soak in over night.
Thank you for going through and listing out all the torque specs on all the bolts, my service manual didn't have the rear bracket-body and rear bracket support torque specs so this helps tremendously!!
the proper tourqe specs are goodntighten
WOW! I wish my Forester came apart that easy. NY winters are not easy on cars.
Every 10 minute job can take at least an hour. 😂
Salting the road will corrode.
@@802GarageI concur! The last 10 yards take 90% of the time!
Thanks for the video and now once the warmer weather comes here in New England I will have a job to do. One hint would to put some anti seize on those studs threads so the next time they will come off a lot easier. Thanks again
I can only replace windshield wiper fluid. Lol. I find these videos amazing. It is so cool that you can do such significant repairs in one person even outside a proper garage.
I love tools like this which can save you so much time, money, and frustration! Great video.
A 700$ tool vs a 90$ control arm
@@matthewmaca6675 never said I would buy this specific tool! Do the job enough times and the tool pays for itself though.
I had a mechanic in Tennessee agree to install the OEM bushings into the original front lower control arm on2009 Subaru legacy 3.0r. He managed to destroy the bushing mount, sourced the arms from O'Reilly's, which I only found out when I had to pay the bill. I'll give you a bargain price on 4 bushings and 2 ball joints. Didn't bother to save the Subaru arms to decide if I wanted them. I guess it wasn't good enough that it was a total gut of the front suspension. But wait, there's more! Installed 4 high end Continental tires, but neglected to tell me he isn't equipped to do an alignment. Pay for alignment with a picture of a sheared brand new sway bar end link, and caster off half degree. Rear cross chamber increased to .8 degree trying to force the front. Strut/spring aftermarket matched adjustable damping japanese set up. First look at front mounts, diagnosis... Missing conical washer. Failure on both mounts. Complete disassembly, inspection, replace, reassembly. I can't get back to North Carolina fast enough.
Wow...
Thank you. Certainly just going to buy a whole new control arm to avoid the time and hassle of extracting the bushing. Time is money!
The lack of rust is amazing, My Subaru came from Vermont and both control arm broke like a chicken wishbone due to rust.
I had to cut it short as soon as u said don't attempt this.all I needed to hear. Liked n commented for ya. I appreciate not watching a 20 min video just to b told that, 16 mins in
Great video. Thanks! I've replaced the LCA's twice on my 220k 08 OBW because both times, the rear bushings were worn and torn. They seem to be the only parts that wear out (other than rust in the rust belt). $16 for a pair of bushings compared to $80 for a pair of LCA's (or $160 for Mevotechs) is a good deal. You could rent (free) a ball joint press and adapters from a local parts store like Autozone or OReilly. I just replaced mine with new LCA's but I'll remember this in another 100k miles.
Great video. What is the OD of the Snap On cup ram tool you used (BJP1-43A)? Snap On says 71.88mm OD but the Subaru lower bushing diameter is only 60mm. Something is not right. I plan to install some Superpro poly bushings in my Subaru. Thanks.
Edit. The correct OD of the BJP1-43A ram cup is 58.9mm. Snap On catalog has a typo. There is a small lip on one end of the cup that contacts the bushing and fits perfect.
Edit: I used the universal press and pull sleeve kit (amazon $120) and installed a bushing from Superpro USA instead of the crappy Subaru OEM. the press kit comes with several silver colored press cups to remove and install the large front lower control arm bushing. I also replaced the smaller forward bushing but used a 25mm deep impact socket with an OD of 36.5mm or 1-7/16" since the kit did not have this size cup.
I watched this video the day it aired. Took forester in to have airbag replaced. When they did the inspection told me that the bushine and ball joint was bad. I guess ill start buying parts and refer to this video when I go to do it. (will be using your press video as well)
Subaru does offer a loaded control arm (both bushings, ball joint, castle nut, and lock pin), at least for some applications. The official online parts catalog could be clearer - the diagram shows it but the part description does not explain it. Dealers using the Revolution Parts catalog system seem to detail it correctly though. I had worn LCA bushings on an '09 Forester and and ended up using loaded control arms on both sides (20202SC011 and 20202SC002)
Yeah, found that afterwards. They're about $230.
I would buy one just for eliminating the risk of installing the bushing backwards or upside down.
I live in the southwest desert, no rust or salt eaten metal here either, no hate from me. But I used to live in NY and Maine, it's terrible what the roads do to cars there
Don't I know it. :'( Vermont here. Everything I work on is rust.
its not just terrible its psychotic how bad rust gets there.
Yes, here in Scotland too!!!
I live in Oregon and just did the control arm bushings and wheel bearings on a friends Buick that came from Michigan. Ball joint was so rusted in there and was not coming off I didn’t want to mess it up so I just unbolted the strut tower and tie rod and took the control arm, strut, and knuckle out and pushed out bushings while control arm was still connected to the knuckle by the ball joint. Was a lot faster than trying to get the ball joint out lol.
That Subaru must have hopped like a rabbit. AT-205 Re-Seal is your bushing friend. Spraying my bushings about every 12,000 miles helped my front control arm bushings on my 2015 Forester last about 1.75 times more miles than just looking at them and doing nothing.
I never bothered replacing just the bushing. I replaced the entire control arm each time. More expensive. But you get a new EVERYTHING. New ball joint too. I love starting from 0 on the miles.
Pro Tip: Tap a little chisel in the gap of the ball joint bore, the ball joint will almost fall out.
I could hear the collective groans when you said "Crosstrek" right off the bat. There went that opportunity... 🤣
You mean Crosstrack😂
I just had 4 bushings, 2 control arms, 2 swivels, a rear spring, a/c relay, oil change and tire repair and this came to $2000. Sounds like the parts were cheap and most of the cost was labor. I know I got jipped but unless you have the tools and the know how, you have to pay to be safe on the road.
I just had 2 front rotors, 2 front brake pads, and 2 arm bushings replaced and was charged $1367.60.
Great video. I would personally replace that right control arm. It’s split and separating at the ball joint area. If you aren’t in a rust prone part of the country it may not matter.
The NVH (noise, vibration and harhness) folks probably had the final say on the elastomeric design (degradation). You do a great job with only two hands available!
One of our nationwide suspension parts suppliers in Australia sells complete control arms with bushings and ball joint installed for less money than a new bushing would cost to install in labour time.
Jake, what’s the company name please?
Your videos are the best. Period.
that was funny when you mention the hate comments from people in the north. It is beautifully clean and rust free under there.
I just did this job on my 08 Tribeca in my driveway. I did the rear bushing with a steel ring I kept from when I did the rear end bushings. I put that over a control arm that I had from another vehicle that had a mounted bolt. I put the bushing over the bolt then the steel ring, ten I used a piece of steel with a hole cut in it to sit on top of the ring then just tightened a nut down and it popped it right out. Pressing it in I just used a vice . The ball joint I took the hub off cause I snapped the pinch bolt, drilled it out . Then pressed out the ball joint with a reciever cup and the steel piece I had with the hole in it and put the nut on and tightened it down. Came right out. Now I just have to press the new one in lol
Love Your Videos Sooo Much!!
Been at the Subaru factory in Indiana since they opened and it does sadden me when we seem to be having inferior components in the vehicles.
Not necessarily in every case,but in major suspension components just be aware that a number of years ago FHI corporate instituted an awe inspiring safety directive of zero fatalities.
With the new offset impact tests etc. / the continuous compromise in engineering to preserve crumple zones should not impede long term component reliability.
So sorry some of our stuff isn't perfect.
Even with big brother Toyota in our backyard, we are still a tiny company.
David does not always beat Goliath!!!
Mr. Subaru your awesome.
Want a plant tour some day.
Let us know / just to show ya how hard we're tryin.
Thanks
Great video, I may just replace the bushing with the control arm now..
LMAO, Go ahead and leave hate comments! I appreciate a person who knows where he stands! Much respect to you on this opening comment!
My '98 Legacy GT needs a new set now. This videos will be super helpful!
You mentioned a trip to the Blue Ridge Parkway. I can watch the cars go by on a section if that Parkway from my kitchen window. Small world. WNC is definitely Subaru country! Very popular around here.
Easy to see why a specialty tool is used, that bushing sleeve is narrow so the installation hardware would need an exact diameter. Once the old one is out I suppose one could modify the old sleeve to help drive the new one in.
You are my favourite dude right now.
1. Take a vice. (Or whatever this thingy that you put stuff in, to hold it, is called) it can work as a press
2. Carefully measure diameter of the bushing.
3. Buy a cheap ball bearing of roughly the same size. Grind it down to ideal outer diameter.
4. Remove, press bushing with a vice.
Most of diy guys have a vice. Ball bearing is few moneys (€/£/$).
I purchased a vice specifically for this job, cheap one is 60€ in Europe.
It was nice to see this kit in action. All ready have the BJP1 going to have to order this adapter set for it so I can put the press to work again.
BJP1-BKS is the adapter set part number. 👍🏻
Thanks heaps, also thanks heaps for your video about pcv - saved me a heap of money.
What size cups are needed for the press?
Also I’m in Maryland and the entire subframe of my 2005 impreza is rusted out through the black paint I’m going to replace it but it’s really a hassle what salt does to cars on the east coast
Is there an option for without a press
Just here to leave my hate comment on the pinch Bolt.lol keep up the good work on the Subarus. love your videos.
4:50 Mid-Atlantic too, haha. Those snap right off and have to be drilled out or better yet just buy a new knuckle. Nightmares.
Here in Wisconsin this car would be considered to be in mint condition as far as the rust goes. Not hating just jealous cause every single car I work on is a crusty bucket
You can rent the bushing press from Advance Auto for anyone wondering. Part #648604.
Nice video describing just the job I`m doing now. I like your southern accent! Love from Norway.
Man I’m glad I saw man I have a 2019 Impreza with like 18k miles only and these bushings on my car already starting to show fatigue. Wonder if there’s an upgrade for it
I had my Subaru main dealer replace all four bushings yesterday. They were completely shot. The difference with the new ones is literally night and day. 👍
looks like a good tool to make, I need to do these bushings soon, I may fabricobble one together
Very professional job. Very good i like your videos
Thank you so much for the excellent video! I really appreciate the detailed guidance on replacing the bushings. My 2016 Forester is 8 years old and has been in the New England area, where the OEM bushings were replaced about 4 years ago. Lately, I've been noticing some occasional wheel wobbling on the highway, and I'm hoping to address this issue this month before the weather turns cold. If you don't mind, could I kindly ask for your advice? Based on your experience with factory OEM control arms, how many times would you recommend replacing the bushings before considering a full control arm replacement? And after one bushing replacement, is it still advisable to continue with just bushing replacements, or would you suggest replacing the entire assembly? Thank you again for sharing your expertise!
Looks like you recently replaced that outer CV joint boot. Nice video.
Video is shot, haven't had the time to edit it yet.
awesome video! thank you! i need to replace both lower control arms on my 14 wrx - anything i should look out for?
Having trouble removing 7:30 bushing. MN vehicle, need advice how to do this with a stuck rusty part. TIA
Do I have my conversions correct for the weight in American Pounds?
Rear Control Arm Bushing (Torque Spec = 110.6195 Ft Lbs)
Front Control Nut & Bolt (Torque Spec = 70.0590 Ft Lbs)
Ball Joint Hitch Bolt (Torque Spec = 36.8780 Ft Lbs)
Sway Bar In Late (Torque Spec = 191.7404 Ft Lbs)
NIce video. great trick for loading the wheel. however, you should give torque in ft-lb also.
The control from OEM does have the control arm.
I replaced mine last weekend. And it was for a 2015 Forester.
Chassis on that car looks better than my wife's Crosstrek with 40 K ....
Hate winter salt😬
I brought my control arms to a local shop to get them swapped...
The owner didn't have proper attachments for a press; respect. Ar lease he said he can't do it...
Second shop did it but, butchered orientation despite my clear markings... WTF?
I hate to tell any mechanic how to the job...
great videos and info!...thanks!...i am having an issue with my rear tires being cocked in at the top causing wear on the inside of the tires (2013 legacy 2.5i)...i am going to replace the rear struts this weekend...could these bushings or the control arms be causing the tires to be cocked inward at the top?
Ordering new assemblies will not work for me, I need the bushings out to have the control arms powder coated. Great vid. Thank you!
supposedly subaru switched to that style of bushing as give better vibration absorption .
certainly don't last well, although not big deal replace .
DIY guys can buy a cup and forcing screw set for doing bushings, can be had around 100 bucks mark, you can even make your own cups if wanted and use the screw from a old mechanical car jack or similar .
They pretty easy bushes multi drill the rubber out then cut the metal sleeve to remove .
Looked like nice day be outside , another job jobbed ...
Is it always the back one that goes? Have you ever seen the front also/ is it worth replacing while your there
Robert, I understand the savings if you’re just going to replace this particular bushing, but at 150k miles and having all the labor involved in removing the lower control arm, wouldn’t it be prudent to replace the other bushing and the ball joint?
And, given the price of these three parts, just replace the entire lower control arm assembly? Given the bushings are about $25 each…and the ball joint another $48…and the entire assembly about $100 and no labor involved in removing and pressing in the wear parts…
Well, you get my point.
I need to replace mine in the rear of my baja. I wonder if the 05-09 outback bushing will fit the same. And, I wonder if there's a cheaper version of that press tool. that'll be something I can use quite often since my whole family has a subaru. haha
I know for my 10 outback the LCA comes with bushings but no ball joints when bought from Subaru.
I definitely enjoy this video and now being so much informed on what to do.
How do I know when this is necessary? What's the noise? Or is it just visual check?
Nice vid! Good job on the Crossie!
I drive a 2019 subaru crosstrek the dealership advised me that I should have my bushings replaced at 30k miles. I took a look at the bushings myself I didn't see any deformations to the bushings. Just got cautionary purpose should I have them replaced anyway before a install a 2" lift?
Good evening. A have a cuestión for you. Hope you help me. Were I can get that rear bushings for subaru outback 2003. I appreciate you help. Gracias..
what about alignment after installation? the rear bushing hole looks so much bigger than the stud diameter..?
10:30 I had one like that on my Forester. My car was shaking horribly.
You are correct sir, we hate you. I have taken to filling the pinch gap with clear silicone after installing the new pinch bolts. My theory is that the salt water gets into this joint to corrode the pinch bolt into place. We will see what happens in a few years when I have to take one off again.
Any updates on the result of the silicone seal?
@@AnginKeras So far, I haven't had to replace any a second time before selling them. I did inspect one doing brakes later, and the silicone was still intact a year later.
Do any of the oem front and rear bushings, ball joints, sway bar links ect. on your store front page work for the 04 Subaru outback h6 sedan. Im trying to replace alot on it and the dealership is trying to charge alot for the exact same parts.
Bought the LCA for my 2017 Forester from Napa Autoparts but the ball joint is not sealed. It has a tiny hole that I’m assuming is to grease. It also comes with a tiny screw to cap off. Do these ball joints typically come pre-greased? If so, would it be safe to thread in the tiny screw and install the LCA?
I'm confused as to which way up the rear one goes in. Is it most sticking out the top or the bottom?
aaaaand this is why I just replace the entire control arm. thats a spendy tool, looks like it works really well though!
Gotta watch which control arms you buy. Some are cheaper junk that feel noticeable lighter in hand.
Is there a way to maintain them to stay longer ? Lubricant or spray good for rubber ? 🤔
Hi thanks for the sharing.. Appreciated.. I'm from Malaysia Johor
What are the measurements on the cups?
I see you’re using the snap-on receiver and insert tools. Is the c clamp from snap on as well? What part number is it?
BJP1
What kind of tool/bit did you use at the 4:41 mark to remove the bolt?
What would you do if the sway bar link nut won't come off and just spins with the threaded bolt?
Hello, How can I replace the bushing without the special tool?
Which impact swivel sockets you recommend? I have 10-19mm snap on deep sockets and I really love the way they bite.
These in the video are Snap-on. No real complaints.
Question about the lower link (i know the video is old sorry) i’ve seen a lot of forums say there is no camber adjust on the rear of these, but there is a concentric washer on the lower linkage. I just replaced the upper link but there still seems to be a bit of camber out. Wondering if you could give any pointers on that.
Will the Snapon tools work with any ball joint press?