I know it's 7 years old, but this was the exact video I needed! I've had my GsR integra for 14 years an I'm finally upgrading a few things such as exhaust and intake. Buuut I'm lucky enough to have found a factory sealed brand new CT Icebox! I've also got a full custom tig welded vband exhaust! Can't wait to hear and feel her scream, cheers bud!
I'm a mechanical engineering student. I love watching your videos :) One day I'll be able to afford my own car and do my own mods. Great videos, very informative and I always love seeing it from an engineering prospective.
I took everything apart OK, but putting it in was challenging to say the least, thanks for the awesome vid, saved me 1800 bucks the garage wanted to charge me
Car runs and drive perfectly fine. Interior is complete and in good shape as can be seen in the photos. Radio works and is wired for an amp and sub in truck already. Cruise control works great. AC and Heat both work great Although only on 3 and 4 for fan strength. Might need a new switch to work on low fan levels. Was that way when I got the car. Oil changed on time since I have had the car and have service receipts. Just replaced cap/rotor/and plugs, NGK wires still in good shape. Track mileage on nearly every tank since I have owned the car, average MPG 30-34 Odometer reads 262k Motor is not original, changed before I got the car. Motor was Marked at 94k when put in car, don't know when that was, so not sure mileage on motor. Starts up quick, does not burn oil or get hot. 5 speed Manual. Clutch feels and works great with no slip, Do not know when the last time it was replaced. Has Fresh Registration/Tags This month (April,2015) Does that sound good for 1800$
Those bigger problems are not addressed, so why not start addressing some secondary problems while stalling the bigger ones? I mean once you start changing to Metric, maybe this will also finally get the gun law in check and save peoples lives.
I saw a YT video on here showing a stock intake vs. an aftermarket cold air intake on a dyno - it proved the stock intake drew more air than the cold air intake.
To get the power increase from the aftermarket cold air intake you need to tune your engine to be compatible with the upgrade, some engines loose power after installing an upgrade because the ECU thinks there is a problem so it holds back and does not use all its power with the upgrade, so after tuning a car with mods you will get hp gains. Im not an expert but I know a few things, hope I helped :)
Will you do a turbo installation, because I really want to see how much horsepower can be made out of a smaller engine before doing major doing any dyno testing and performance tunes ? Thanks Again
Hey I've got a question. So wouldn't putting the intake that low to the ground make it possible for it to suck up some standing water? If so, would there be ways to prevent that?
Hey, good vid. Can't wait to see the testing on it. Just as a video suggestion. Can you please do one on the tachometer? What it is? What it tells us and why it's useful? What relationship it has with the rotation of the crankshaft? Why revs per min don't have a 1:1 relationship with the speed. As revs increases why speed doesn't increase exactly the same amount? Also, any relationship it may have to fuel consumption (i assume more heavy footed driving would lead to higher fuel usage). I have some basic understanding, but your vids are usually really great and simple. Cheers :)
In case he doesn't get to you or make a video, here's a crash course. The tachometer counts you how many times your crankshaft spins around per minute. Revs don't have a 1:1 relationship with speed because you have a gear box, which makes the ratio more like 4:1 for first gear, 3:1 for second gear, 2:1 for third gear, 1:1 for fourth gear, and about .75:1 for fifth gear. Obviously each gear box is different but that's an example. Your rear differential, such as in trucks, will be something like 3:1 or 4:1 as well, altering the way power is put to the ground further. The figure for the gear ratio at the wheels is the final drive ratio. If first gear is 4:1 and the rear diff gear is 4:1, then your final drive ratio in first gear is 16:1. In this example, at 16:1 your tire will spin one time for every 16 times the crankshaft rotates. This is done for several reasons. The main one of which is your engine doesn't have enough power at a 1:1 ratio to get you moving if you're sitting still. Gear ratios make it easier for the engine to spin the rest of the drive train by letting them work over time, instead of having an instant response. It's like you've got a pallet of sandbags that you have to put in the bed of a truck. It's a lot easier for you to move them one at a time than lift the whole thing up at once. That's why we've invented two speed, three speed, 12 speed gearboxes, because it's easier to get the work done little bits at a time. Once you're moving, the workload lessens because you gain momentum, and it takes less engine rotations to spin the tires. Having more gears takes advantage of this momentum and allows you to move faster and use less power. This is all optimized by engineers who design engines to maximize torque, horsepower, and fuel economy. Then design the drivetrain to use those figures in the most effective way possible. This is why the 2.0L 4cyl in my Focus has more horsepower and torque than the 4.0L V6 in my Ranger, and gets 2-3 times the fuel mileage. Questions?
stevetheviking Your engine horsepower and torque have nothing to do with gear ratios and your 2.0L isn't more powerful then your 4.0L. If it is a 2.0L naturally aspirated motor it makes 160hp and 146 lb/ft of torque. The 4.0L makes 160-207hp and 220-238 lb/ft of torque. You may have the turbo 2.0L that makes 252hp and 270 lb/ft of torque, but that isn't because of the transmission or gearing. If that's the case you just have a newer direct injected turbo motor, thats where the extra hp and especially torque come from. Just newer design. The fuel economy is probably not better because of the transmission, it helps but your extra fuel economy comes from aerodynamics and having half the engine size, because your 4cyl probably is spinning faster in every gear then the 6 at a given speed.
stevetheviking Thanks for the indepth reply. I think that is a good starting point to explaining why 1:1 ratio between tachometer and speed doesn't exist. Put in the context of gears it makes sense. I don't own a manual so didn't consider it like that, but i guess same principal with how torque converters work? right? Some of my other questions still stand. What is the point of seeing a tachometer in the car? Only reason I can think of is to see if you're not over-reving and stuffing up the engine.
custommotor Sorry, the part at the end about engines didn't really convey what I meant it to. I was pretty tired writing that. I know the transmission and drivetrain don't have anything to do with new engine technology, and wasn't trying to imply the transmission gearing causes the engine to make more power. I meant to cite that as an example of what engineers do to optimize vehicle performance overall. I apologize if that was misleading. And you're correct about the torque figure. I wasn't really thinking when I said that. Mine is the naturally aspirated model. It's got more horsepower than the V6, less torque. It FEELS like it has way more torque, which is probably where I was going with that, but factually it creates less torque. The important part is I explained the rest of it correctly before I started rambling nonsense. :D
***** I drive a manual every day, so I pay lots of attention to the tach. ;) The torque converter is a bit more complicated. I'll try to keep the explanation simple and explain what it's for without getting into the somewhat complex details. In a manual transmission you manually control the contact of the flywheel to the transmission via the clutch, using the clutch pedal. When you push the clutch pedal in, the clutch disk is pulled away from the flywheel, allowing the transmission to be in gear while you're sitting still. In an automatic you don't have a clutch pedal, so something has to break contact between the engine and transmission so you can be engaged in Drive while sitting still, the torque converter does this. As for why we have a tach? In manuals it's obvious why we need them, but some things still don't have them. My motorcycle doesn't have a tach, though I wish it did. In automatics, the answer is simple. No. You really don't NEED a tach at all. A friend of mine has a 2000 Crown Vic police car that has no tachometer. But sometimes even in an automatic it's nice to know how your engine is spinning. You can see on the tach if the car has a rough idle, you can see if it has a misfire, you can see if your throttle is sticking or something otherwise unhealthy is going on with it. Also, fuel economy. Your engine uses more fuel spinning faster rather than it does while spinning slower. If you watch your tach and use your foot appropriately to keep the needle in the small numbers, you save fuel. But no, it's not truly necessary on any vehicle. Just really helpful.
Great video as always ! Do you plan on testing something like "CT-Engineering Ice Box" which combines the benefits of SRI and CAI, at least in theory ? Or maybe modifying the stock airbox so that it takes cold air from the fender
PVC CAI VS ALUMINIUM VS STAINLESS STEEL Good day. Lately I see a number of people moving to PVC cai, I assume for the price and retains less heat. I however read on some forums it releases gasses detrimental to the engine when hot. What is your view on this? Thank you Regards
I would like a penny for your thoughts, on the reinstall. The pvc hose would you find it more beneficial to keep that set up or to replace the valve cover lead with a breather "looks like a mini filter" and bypass the hot metal line that coolant runs underneath and capping off the intake line. Or with there being pressure from the crankcase does that add to the air volume? I am always doing small experiments on my daily go-kart (cant call it a driver cant call it a race car going for best in all worlds) I have usually by-passed my setup ( In my experience this is only found on honda/acura but is my preference) have always wondered however.
The tubing being metal, a good conductor of heat, I have doubts on how much difference its going to make. Can you please measure the temperature of air right before it enters the head in both case.
+Nicholas Loe the electrical connector on top of the throttle body is the MAP sensor. There isn't a MAF on these cars. If you drive a car with the MAF on the air filter box there are adapters available which fit cone filters.
What is the difference from that cold air intake, and the short ram intake from the previous video? Can you turn this cold air intake into a short ram during the rain season? If so, would you need to re install that resonator box you removed from behind the wheel.
What about the coolant pipe in the throttle? In southeast region, climate is humid and warm, we block out the coolant hoses to the throttle bidy when preparing the cold air intake. this further reduce intake aur temperature. If its not removed, its only effective during the start-up, once engine heat up, throttle body will be heat up too. Cold air temp will will increase at that point onwards.
You should do a test between factory and a "cold air intake" because the metal piping absorbs heat from the engine which makes it a hot air intake. You should make a video
Love your videos but really would love to see you spend more time and effort working on the Subaru. Try and just make that the coolest car on the block.
Junaid Mahomed Yep, I don't miss it at all. It's an insane amount of work. Quality of life during college is lower than average. Quality of life after college is higher than average. That's what it's all about. :)
Is it normal for your PCV line to be EXTREMELY tight onto the new intake pipe? Mine was, I had to cut the sides to slip it down. Also, I have a spare line that seems to be sucking air in, should I cover it up with a vaccume cap or does it go somewhere? Thanks!
im wondering the samw thing the two hoses comimg from the throttle body right cause it goes on the old intake but the new one only has one hole for that
Man your so lucky taking out my old airbox in my 07 civic was a nightmare it was wedged in there so freaking tight I had to literally rip it out of the car(it was my first time and I was so afraid I'd break something)
I have long wondered how to prevent water splash onto your air filter with the location being where you installed yours. Would it be a "solution" if you will to minimize hydro-locking an engine by keeping the resonator original tubing to lead into the engine area and install a short ram intake in the spot of the original air box? would it still be as effective just having air lead to the filter rather than leading the filter to air? I have not installed an intake to my 2010 Acura TSX for that reason. I enjoy learning from your videos. Great job!
So you're telling me that 4 foot long metal pipe sitting 5 inches from the engine block, traveling the entire length of the engine bay, and then going down, is NOT heating the cold air you have struggled to collect with that dangerously low air filter?
+Engineering Explained If it works as it is, wouldn't it work even better if it was insulated? That metal pipe is absorbing massive amounts of heat inside the engine bay, and that heat will be transferred to the air, which partly defeats the purpose of sucking cold air from under the bumper. Of course, it may still be better than the stock intake which sucks in air from the engine bay maybe. But just because it made a little difference doesn't mean it can't be made to perform better.
+Capcatrei so the stock tubing isnt absorbing "massive" amounts of heat? metal will always stay cooler than plastic/rubber and a consistent airflow from the ground will keep the metal pipe cooler than the stock. if it was a short ram intake then yes a heat shield would help out a lil bit.
+ItsRyanY0 You say: "a consistent airflow from the ground will keep the metal pipe cooler". How do you think that air is cooling the metal pipe? It's called heat transfer. The cold air is absorbing heat from the metal pipe, therefore the metal pipe gets colder, and the cold air gets warmer, which is EXACTLY what I said - the metal pipe is heating your air. And you say "metal will always stay cooler than plastic/rubber". The metal itself does not "stay" cooler. Nor does the plastic or any other material for that matter. The reason why the metal pipe is cooler to the touch than the stock plastic intake, is because metal is a bad thermal insulator, or a good thermal conductor, however you want to put it. Which means that metal is better than plastic at transferring heat. The typical PVC's thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.1 - 0.22 The typical Chromed stainless steel thermal conductivity coefficient is 16.1 If we do a quick calculation, 16.1 divided by 0.22, the result is 73.1 Which means that metal is about 73 times better at transferring heat than plastic is. The reason the metal pipe stays colder to the touch, is because it's given A LOT of heat away to the cold air passing through. Which means it heated the air a lot. The reason the plastic intakes are so much warmer to the touch is because they are BAD at transferring heat. So you subject them to massive heat inside the engine bay, and you do run cold air through them, but since they have a low thermal conductivity coefficient, they cannot sink their heat into the cold air that passes by. That means the air that passes through the plastic intake pipe arrives at the engine much cooler than the one going through the metal pipe. So the fact that the stock plastic intake is very hot to the touch kinda fools you into thinking the air inside it is just as hot. Just as the cold metal pipe fools you into thinking it stays cool by itself, therefore the air going through it is also cool, when in fact it's exactly the opposite. Why do they use these kinds of aftermarket intakes then? Even though metal is a bad insulator, and heats the air much more than plastic, the cold air they suck from under the bumper is so much colder than the air from the engine bay which stock intakes suck in...that overall you are gaining SOME advantage. HOWEVER, if they made that pipe from an insulating material, or if they wrapped it with insulating materials, it would suck in cold air and deliver it cold to the engine. Why is everybody failing to understand that?
+Capcatrei Why don't you go do your own research on CAI vs. Ram air vs. Icebox intakes. They've been around for years, I don't see why you're giving this UA-camr a hard time. If it's that big an issue for you wrap the pipe with some exhaust wrap to help insulate the pipe. The fact is the air is going to be colder than it would be if you picked it up straight out of the engine bay with a ram air intake. Ffs.
I have a 2008 Mazdaspeed 3 with the 2.3L MZR DISI IL4 Turbo engine,... Would I have to tune after installing the Mazda Mazdaspeed Performance Cold Air Intake? Or can I get away with not tuning? There are no mods to car now. Its completely stock. The CAI would be the only and first mod. Thanks in advance.
+Rodrigo Cunillé Great idea! Do you happen to know if flywheels are the same on manuals and automatics? It kills me that I'm illiterate on this subject. Tons of lightweight flywheels are available for my car, but they give me the feeling they're for a manual only.
DE Nichols Flywheels are only for manual transmissions. Automatic transmissions use a flex plate that is similar to a flywheel but a it's already lightweight. So a lightweight flywheel is only for a manual transmission. I really don't know if there are aftermarket lightweight flex plates.
Cool Video! What happens if you hit a huge puddle and soak your air filter? would it suck water in or since that pipe is as hell would it not even make it to the throttle body? Also how would a wet air filter affect the car?
For small puddles the fender liner should protect it from water splashing on it. If you were to go into a deeper puddle, deep enough to reach the filter, it is possible to hydrolock the engine. If you're lucky, it will simply stall. Otherwise the weakest link will break (the piston tries to compress water, which it cannot).
In my shop class and there was a supercharged 4 cylinder engine that came out of a Audi (i don't know what model) and the rods, rings, and crank was all types of screwed up. turns the guy ran it through a really deep puddle and the supercharger pulled it all in and ruined it. now we have a screwed up Audi engine.
im looking to throw on an old cold air intake i have laying around on my 91 corolla, its going to fit but i dont have a plug in for the AIT (air intake temp) on my cold air intake, can i just have the AIT plugged in but just hanging around in the engine bay? by the filter maybe?
"Note: Due to the lower location of the intake filter, sucking in water and hydrolocking your engine can become an issue." Wish I had known that six months ago.
hey i have a unrelated question ive been on a hunt for the brackets that connect the tabs of the bumper to frame if u know what they are called please let me know theres one on each side and it bends downwards to hook up to the frame please let me know
Let's say I have a 3 speed, inline 6 engine that I don't know how high it revs because I don't have a tachometer. (My engine revs on the higher side) Will this give me better gas mileage?
only available in Japan and Europe, unless i get one ported to the US, which is a lot of money. I can afford it, but it will be a long hassle. Also i dont know if it is approved for shipping to the us. It would overall be expensive and a headache.
+Jackson Summers cold air is defined as outside of eng bay how far outside is dependent on car type and space for equipment long ram air intakes defeat the purpose and usually bring the filter closer to the exhaust head as opposed to the fire wall.
My '88 ranger had an air filter box, but it would draw cold air from the front grill of the truck. Every cold air intake I've seen has the filter exposed all around, but I wonder what happens when you start driving through puddles in the rain and water is splashing up? Does the water ever clog up the filter when it's not in an enclosed box? Also, wouldn't my ranger be just as efficient using an K&N in a filter box since it draws the air from a cold source? Or is there more efficiency to the exposed cylindrical filter drawing air all around?
***** Depends how restrictive the resonator is to make the intake quieter. If you're pulling from the outside already, you won't be pulling in cooler air, obviously. The restriction could make a difference, but it's different in almost every case. I'll have test results posted soon!
Won't that long metal pipe just absorb engine bay heat and the incoming air then pick up the heat and feed it back into the engine? Shouldn't the pipe be made of plastic, wrapped in reflective aluminium tape?
Hi there! I am currently studying mechanical engineering, lets see if I can help. I haven't taken heat transfer yet but i do know the basics. Maybe Engineering Explained can confirm what I am explaining. So, basic knowledge of heat transfer tells you that metal transfers heat faster than plastics. Its due to the thermal conductivity of the metal. Higher thermal conductivity of a given material results in faster heat transfer. You can notice this yourself when you touch a piece of metal, it will be cold due to the metal transfering your body heat from you. So when the pipe sits in the engine bay it is cooling off more than say a plastic pipe, which would take some time to heat up but once it does it will stay hot (due to plastics crappy thermal conductivity). A metal pipe in combination with convection effects (air flow) will further cool down the pipe. For example, convective cooling effect can be seen in heat sinks on the back of a DJ speaker. The heat sinks are made out of metal (probably aluminum) and have fins. These fins allow air to flow through the heat sink further cooling the metal. Believe it or not this prevents the speaker from overheating. Anyways, I hope I answered your question. Any additional questions just ask.
what do I do with the one tube from the throttle body the Intake has the thing for the valve cover hose and then I have two coming from throttle body that go in stock intake
I don't understand how this makes the air cooler. I mean it seems like the same thing as your intake before except without a resonator. Air still just flows though a filter, through a pipe, into the engine just like before right? And if this is the case what is the point of even having a long metal pipe? Why cant you simply attach a filter right to the throttle body?
Can't you just modify that new tube/hose and place it near the throttlebody, to prevent sucking in water by the intake. But when attached, maybe it will now suck in some engine heath?
Nicktrance1 It's a concpet/theory. But the question is does it actually work in practice? I look forward to the test results because intake mods have always been the subject of controversy. I know that it brings out the *woosh* and *pshhhh* sound it turbo cars but the horsepower gains are debatable. As much as I love the BOV/BPV sounds I would rather spend $150-350 on mods that without a doubt will bring out performace gains that no one debates. I have a Mazdaspeed 6 and plan on buying tunning software kit plus some cheap (but non controversial mods) so I don't waste the little money that I can afford to spend. PS: I think that the headturning intake BOV/BPV sound isn't something I want cops to hear while I'm boosting lol.
Grant Rodgers Different cars have things located in different areas, the overall procedure will be similar but unique to each vehicle. I think I bought the jack stands at Autozone, 2 or 3 ton.
+Carlos Quinonez It depends on where you're driving if that difference is better or worse. If I had a cold air intake I'd do better in the hottest summer, but at all other times I'm better off with my short ram.
You have to thermal wrap a cold intake for it to be an actual cold air intake people! Why is nobody else doing this? That metal tube is going to get so hot, so fast, and heat all that air coming in that was cold when it entered.
+Inner Ear Thing I just made a video about how I had to heat up even a short ram for maximum power, but I love your tip. In the summer my pipe does get too hot, insulating it may or may not help though, since I think the impulses of heat from the chambers, which actually go up every intake, may be the true source of heat and if I insulate the short ram intake, I may actualy make the air even hotter in the summer. But since this video is a true cold air intake, if you want it even colder, insulation may help. It's just that in my case I'm comparing a short ram that I need to get even hotter overcoming the cooler part of the year, but I do things a bit cooler at the hottest part of the summer. To sum up: insulating may just keep heat in coming from the combustion chamber and the engine up the intake and radiating out from the intake piping, or it may help keep the cold air cooler if you have a true cold air intake We need some summer back, some insulation, and a laser thermometer to figure out this one! :)
Just make sure that the puddle isn't touching the intake. Depending on how low your car is(aftermarket springs) if half of your rims will get covered in water it would be very dumb to drive through that. They also include aftermarket splash shields sometime that come with the intake. That can help.
Umberto Bizzarro It absolutely can be. In a car like this I wouldn't recommend it if it's you're DD and you live in a rainy area. But with normal rain it should be fine as there is a fender liner protecting it.
***** Nope, and honestly it's a pretty junk bar. The company who sent it said they'd be sending a different one, and this is what I ended up with. Ideally want something with less joints so it's rigid. I could solve this by welding it up, but i'd like to keep it easily removable for now.
+xCkillaxC Probably not. Some wait savings and less insulation from the cold air. I certainly wouldn't do it if there was any damage to the wheel liner, it's an extra layer of protection. So, if you do it, keep the resonator in case you ever have damage to your liner, even if you don't hydrolock your engine, when I lost my resonator, my K&N filter got way filthier.
I know it's 7 years old, but this was the exact video I needed! I've had my GsR integra for 14 years an I'm finally upgrading a few things such as exhaust and intake. Buuut I'm lucky enough to have found a factory sealed brand new CT Icebox! I've also got a full custom tig welded vband exhaust! Can't wait to hear and feel her scream, cheers bud!
Thanks, my riced out Mazda 3 hatch will appreciate this.
Tannerp24 hahahahahaha
I'm a mechanical engineering student. I love watching your videos :) One day I'll be able to afford my own car and do my own mods. Great videos, very informative and I always love seeing it from an engineering prospective.
Hey man! Did you do it?
I'm becoming a auto mechanic and I pretty much learned everything from ur videos. thank man's. can't wait to see ur results from ur cold air intake
Another informative video as usual! I'm really looking forward to the comparison between the SRI and the CAI.
I took everything apart OK, but putting it in was challenging to say the least, thanks for the awesome vid, saved me 1800 bucks the garage wanted to charge me
can't wait for your results. the short ram results was extremely informative.
Car runs and drive perfectly fine.
Interior is complete and in good shape as can be seen in the photos.
Radio works and is wired for an amp and sub in truck already.
Cruise control works great.
AC and Heat both work great
Although only on 3 and 4 for fan strength. Might need a new switch to work on low
fan levels. Was that way when I got the car.
Oil changed on time since I have had the car and have service receipts.
Just replaced cap/rotor/and plugs, NGK wires still in good shape.
Track mileage on nearly every tank since I have owned the car, average MPG 30-34
Odometer reads 262k
Motor is not original, changed before I got the car. Motor was Marked at 94k when put in car, don't
know when that was, so not sure mileage on motor. Starts up quick, does not burn oil or get hot.
5 speed Manual. Clutch feels and works great with no slip,
Do not know when the last time it was replaced.
Has Fresh Registration/Tags This month (April,2015)
Does that sound good for 1800$
+Alberto Hernandez OH yeah.
Is it still for sale?
I'm so glad I found your channel. your are awesome!!!
+Engineering Explained It would be a lot easier if USA adopted the metric system at last, don't you think?
we've got bigger problems to worry about then switching to the metric system
It's a rather arbitrary thing
Those bigger problems are not addressed, so why not start addressing some secondary problems while stalling the bigger ones? I mean once you start changing to Metric, maybe this will also finally get the gun law in check and save peoples lives.
if youre worried about hydro locking, you should consider getting a hydro shield, its only 20 bucks, its pretty effective against water and dust
One mod you should do for the project and testing is a chip tuner, to change your air/fuel mixtures and ignition timing.
Well this doesn't seem terribly difficult... Might have a crack at this. Thanks for the vid man
Ik this is late but did it work?
Can you do more videos upgrading this integra?
I saw a YT video on here showing a stock intake vs. an aftermarket cold air intake on a dyno - it proved the stock intake drew more air than the cold air intake.
To get the power increase from the aftermarket cold air intake you need to tune your engine to be compatible with the upgrade, some engines loose power after installing an upgrade because the ECU thinks there is a problem so it holds back and does not use all its power with the upgrade, so after tuning a car with mods you will get hp gains.
Im not an expert but I know a few things, hope I helped :)
Will you do a turbo installation, because I really want to see how much horsepower can be made out of a smaller engine before doing major doing any dyno testing and performance tunes ?
Thanks Again
Hey I've got a question. So wouldn't putting the intake that low to the ground make it possible for it to suck up some standing water? If so, would there be ways to prevent that?
Hey, good vid. Can't wait to see the testing on it.
Just as a video suggestion. Can you please do one on the tachometer? What it is? What it tells us and why it's useful? What relationship it has with the rotation of the crankshaft? Why revs per min don't have a 1:1 relationship with the speed. As revs increases why speed doesn't increase exactly the same amount? Also, any relationship it may have to fuel consumption (i assume more heavy footed driving would lead to higher fuel usage). I have some basic understanding, but your vids are usually really great and simple. Cheers :)
In case he doesn't get to you or make a video, here's a crash course.
The tachometer counts you how many times your crankshaft spins around per minute. Revs don't have a 1:1 relationship with speed because you have a gear box, which makes the ratio more like 4:1 for first gear, 3:1 for second gear, 2:1 for third gear, 1:1 for fourth gear, and about .75:1 for fifth gear. Obviously each gear box is different but that's an example. Your rear differential, such as in trucks, will be something like 3:1 or 4:1 as well, altering the way power is put to the ground further. The figure for the gear ratio at the wheels is the final drive ratio. If first gear is 4:1 and the rear diff gear is 4:1, then your final drive ratio in first gear is 16:1. In this example, at 16:1 your tire will spin one time for every 16 times the crankshaft rotates.
This is done for several reasons. The main one of which is your engine doesn't have enough power at a 1:1 ratio to get you moving if you're sitting still. Gear ratios make it easier for the engine to spin the rest of the drive train by letting them work over time, instead of having an instant response.
It's like you've got a pallet of sandbags that you have to put in the bed of a truck. It's a lot easier for you to move them one at a time than lift the whole thing up at once.
That's why we've invented two speed, three speed, 12 speed gearboxes, because it's easier to get the work done little bits at a time. Once you're moving, the workload lessens because you gain momentum, and it takes less engine rotations to spin the tires. Having more gears takes advantage of this momentum and allows you to move faster and use less power.
This is all optimized by engineers who design engines to maximize torque, horsepower, and fuel economy. Then design the drivetrain to use those figures in the most effective way possible. This is why the 2.0L 4cyl in my Focus has more horsepower and torque than the 4.0L V6 in my Ranger, and gets 2-3 times the fuel mileage.
Questions?
stevetheviking Your engine horsepower and torque have nothing to do with gear ratios and your 2.0L isn't more powerful then your 4.0L. If it is a 2.0L naturally aspirated motor it makes 160hp and 146 lb/ft of torque. The 4.0L makes 160-207hp and 220-238 lb/ft of torque. You may have the turbo 2.0L that makes 252hp and 270 lb/ft of torque, but that isn't because of the transmission or gearing. If that's the case you just have a newer direct injected turbo motor, thats where the extra hp and especially torque come from. Just newer design. The fuel economy is probably not better because of the transmission, it helps but your extra fuel economy comes from aerodynamics and having half the engine size, because your 4cyl probably is spinning faster in every gear then the 6 at a given speed.
stevetheviking
Thanks for the indepth reply. I think that is a good starting point to explaining why 1:1 ratio between tachometer and speed doesn't exist. Put in the context of gears it makes sense. I don't own a manual so didn't consider it like that, but i guess same principal with how torque converters work? right?
Some of my other questions still stand. What is the point of seeing a tachometer in the car? Only reason I can think of is to see if you're not over-reving and stuffing up the engine.
custommotor
Sorry, the part at the end about engines didn't really convey what I meant it to. I was pretty tired writing that. I know the transmission and drivetrain don't have anything to do with new engine technology, and wasn't trying to imply the transmission gearing causes the engine to make more power. I meant to cite that as an example of what engineers do to optimize vehicle performance overall. I apologize if that was misleading.
And you're correct about the torque figure. I wasn't really thinking when I said that. Mine is the naturally aspirated model. It's got more horsepower than the V6, less torque. It FEELS like it has way more torque, which is probably where I was going with that, but factually it creates less torque.
The important part is I explained the rest of it correctly before I started rambling nonsense. :D
*****
I drive a manual every day, so I pay lots of attention to the tach. ;)
The torque converter is a bit more complicated. I'll try to keep the explanation simple and explain what it's for without getting into the somewhat complex details.
In a manual transmission you manually control the contact of the flywheel to the transmission via the clutch, using the clutch pedal. When you push the clutch pedal in, the clutch disk is pulled away from the flywheel, allowing the transmission to be in gear while you're sitting still.
In an automatic you don't have a clutch pedal, so something has to break contact between the engine and transmission so you can be engaged in Drive while sitting still, the torque converter does this.
As for why we have a tach? In manuals it's obvious why we need them, but some things still don't have them. My motorcycle doesn't have a tach, though I wish it did.
In automatics, the answer is simple. No. You really don't NEED a tach at all. A friend of mine has a 2000 Crown Vic police car that has no tachometer. But sometimes even in an automatic it's nice to know how your engine is spinning. You can see on the tach if the car has a rough idle, you can see if it has a misfire, you can see if your throttle is sticking or something otherwise unhealthy is going on with it. Also, fuel economy. Your engine uses more fuel spinning faster rather than it does while spinning slower. If you watch your tach and use your foot appropriately to keep the needle in the small numbers, you save fuel.
But no, it's not truly necessary on any vehicle. Just really helpful.
Great video as always ! Do you plan on testing something like "CT-Engineering Ice Box" which combines the benefits of SRI and CAI, at least in theory ? Or maybe modifying the stock airbox so that it takes cold air from the fender
I imagine you do not want to go over deep puddles with that cold air intake. I would get super wet. Wouldn't that affect the filer?
Is that your own custom made tubing or does it come with the package?
PVC CAI VS ALUMINIUM VS STAINLESS STEEL
Good day. Lately I see a number of people moving to PVC cai, I assume for the price and retains less heat. I however read on some forums it releases gasses detrimental to the engine when hot.
What is your view on this?
Thank you
Regards
Cool stuff, I almost hydro locked my GSR with a CAI. So be careful when driving in the rain.
Stephen Abner Yes indeed. Not really that ideal for a dd.
So would it suck in water if is raining ? or just if I go over a big puddle?
What is the purpose of the resonator in the air intake?
I understand why your exhaust has one but surely the intake doesn't make much noise.
Youd be surprised
It does
They act as a helmholtz resonator. Controls noise but also is tuned to actually provide INCREASED power at partial throttle.
Great work , God bless you and the family
I would like a penny for your thoughts, on the reinstall. The pvc hose would you find it more beneficial to keep that set up or to replace the valve cover lead with a breather "looks like a mini filter" and bypass the hot metal line that coolant runs underneath and capping off the intake line. Or with there being pressure from the crankcase does that add to the air volume? I am always doing small experiments on my daily go-kart (cant call it a driver cant call it a race car going for best in all worlds) I have usually by-passed my setup ( In my experience this is only found on honda/acura but is my preference) have always wondered however.
Wow, I've been looking for a video with a similar engine setup to my Ej1 and never found this video until 5 minutes after me installing it. Ffs lol
Would I be wrong to think that finding a way to angle the air filter up (perhaps straightup, even?) would be a solution to the water intake?
The tubing being metal, a good conductor of heat, I have doubts on how much difference its going to make. Can you please measure the temperature of air right before it enters the head in both case.
What about the MAF sensor? I didn't see one on this car, but do other cold air intakes account for the MAF?
+Nicholas Loe the electrical connector on top of the throttle body is the MAP sensor. There isn't a MAF on these cars.
If you drive a car with the MAF on the air filter box there are adapters available which fit cone filters.
What is the difference from that cold air intake, and the short ram intake from the previous video? Can you turn this cold air intake into a short ram during the rain season? If so, would you need to re install that resonator box you removed from behind the wheel.
What about the coolant pipe in the throttle? In southeast region, climate is humid and warm, we block out the coolant hoses to the throttle bidy when preparing the cold air intake. this further reduce intake aur temperature.
If its not removed, its only effective during the start-up, once engine heat up, throttle body will be heat up too. Cold air temp will will increase at that point onwards.
+MICK LIM TECK WEE 林德伟 Great idea for next summer for my car!
How far in do you push the filter? Do you clamp it slightly behind the grooves on the piping or clamp it directly on top the grooves?
The best way
used shot air intake and
find the way cold air to charge
possible
can you show how to install a turbo in your honda or a non turbo car
Good video, but you don't need clamps on the vacuum hose. The vacuum will keep that rubber hose tight against the intake piping.
alex barmash To everyone, please use the hose clamps. You don't want this rattling lose from vibration, and there's no benefit of not including it.
Im talking about the vacuum line that runs to the intake. The actual intake definitely needs clamps.
You should do a test between factory and a "cold air intake" because the metal piping absorbs heat from the engine which makes it a hot air intake. You should make a video
All That Car Stuff I did.
Engineering Explained aw sweet thanks!
please do crankcase breather filters on both stock, cai and short ram set ups i really want to see if they work #ProjectIntegra
Hi.. just had a query.. do cold air intakes cause the engine to run lean and cause engine damage in the long run
would like to ask something about surbo. if you heard before, would you mind to explain how it works and the performance gained?
Would this set up suck in water on a rainy day ? I live in Chicago that's why I'm so concern
Love your videos but really would love to see you spend more time and effort working on the Subaru. Try and just make that the coolest car on the block.
half the reason im doing mechanical engineering is because of you :) and its so hard! this is all your fault :P
Hahaha hows the math classes? This was my main course in college and it was hard a fuck. I also took diesel mechanics on the side.
Maths isn't the worst, but its self taught so we have no lectures, just tests!
Lots of hours studying, definitely!
Junaid Mahomed Yep, I don't miss it at all. It's an insane amount of work. Quality of life during college is lower than average. Quality of life after college is higher than average. That's what it's all about. :)
I live in the rainy pacific north west. Would a cold air intake be a bad idea considering how wet it gets up here?
Are you supposed to remove the resonator after installing an aftermarket intake?
Does this cold intake mod truly increase power and mileage? I've heard differing accounts.
What is a resonator and what does it do?
That's a Google question, not a UA-cam question. :P
Cantenkerous Tim Keeps the intake noise down.
Engineering Explained Lol who wants that
***** I actually agreed with a brony. :|
Cantenkerous Tim NOT ME
TURBOOOOOOOOOOOO
Is it normal for your PCV line to be EXTREMELY tight onto the new intake pipe?
Mine was, I had to cut the sides to slip it down.
Also, I have a spare line that seems to be sucking air in, should I cover it up with a vaccume cap or does it go somewhere?
Thanks!
im wondering the samw thing the two hoses comimg from the throttle body right cause it goes on the old intake but the new one only has one hole for that
Man your so lucky taking out my old airbox in my 07 civic was a nightmare it was wedged in there so freaking tight I had to literally rip it out of the car(it was my first time and I was so afraid I'd break something)
I have long wondered how to prevent water splash onto your air filter with the location being where you installed yours. Would it be a "solution" if you will to minimize hydro-locking an engine by keeping the resonator original tubing to lead into the engine area and install a short ram intake in the spot of the original air box? would it still be as effective just having air lead to the filter rather than leading the filter to air? I have not installed an intake to my 2010 Acura TSX for that reason. I enjoy learning from your videos. Great job!
+Michael Hernandez That's certainly safer. That's another consideration for what you want to do.
+Michael Hernandez Something like this:
www.amazon.com/Universal-Intake-Pre-Filter-Filter-CPT-WG-M-/dp/B00YXHCYOG/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1448225111&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=Cold+air+intake&psc=1
+LarkLandon Enterprises (d4RKL4RK) I don't see how this will not limit air consumption
Michael Hernandez But it's too hot during the summer for me at least.
So won't the cover make it harder for air to reach the filter??
Did you learn this by yourself? if not , were did you learn to do this at? any specific school / institute / collage?
+AyyGin Alright Thanks !
So you're telling me that 4 foot long metal pipe sitting 5 inches from the engine block, traveling the entire length of the engine bay, and then going down, is NOT heating the cold air you have struggled to collect with that dangerously low air filter?
+Capcatrei No, I'm telling you how to install it. I have other videos validating if it works or not.
+Engineering Explained If it works as it is, wouldn't it work even better if it was insulated? That metal pipe is absorbing massive amounts of heat inside the engine bay, and that heat will be transferred to the air, which partly defeats the purpose of sucking cold air from under the bumper.
Of course, it may still be better than the stock intake which sucks in air from the engine bay maybe. But just because it made a little difference doesn't mean it can't be made to perform better.
+Capcatrei so the stock tubing isnt absorbing "massive" amounts of heat? metal will always stay cooler than plastic/rubber and a consistent airflow from the ground will keep the metal pipe cooler than the stock. if it was a short ram intake then yes a heat shield would help out a lil bit.
+ItsRyanY0 You say: "a consistent airflow from the ground will keep the metal pipe cooler". How do you think that air is cooling the metal pipe? It's called heat transfer. The cold air is absorbing heat from the metal pipe, therefore the metal pipe gets colder, and the cold air gets warmer, which is EXACTLY what I said - the metal pipe is heating your air.
And you say "metal will always stay cooler than plastic/rubber". The metal itself does not "stay" cooler. Nor does the plastic or any other material for that matter. The reason why the metal pipe is cooler to the touch than the stock plastic intake, is because metal is a bad thermal insulator, or a good thermal conductor, however you want to put it. Which means that metal is better than plastic at transferring heat.
The typical PVC's thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.1 - 0.22
The typical Chromed stainless steel thermal conductivity coefficient is 16.1
If we do a quick calculation, 16.1 divided by 0.22, the result is 73.1 Which means that metal is about 73 times better at transferring heat than plastic is.
The reason the metal pipe stays colder to the touch, is because it's given A LOT of heat away to the cold air passing through. Which means it heated the air a lot.
The reason the plastic intakes are so much warmer to the touch is because they are BAD at transferring heat. So you subject them to massive heat inside the engine bay, and you do run cold air through them, but since they have a low thermal conductivity coefficient, they cannot sink their heat into the cold air that passes by.
That means the air that passes through the plastic intake pipe arrives at the engine much cooler than the one going through the metal pipe.
So the fact that the stock plastic intake is very hot to the touch kinda fools you into thinking the air inside it is just as hot. Just as the cold metal pipe fools you into thinking it stays cool by itself, therefore the air going through it is also cool, when in fact it's exactly the opposite.
Why do they use these kinds of aftermarket intakes then? Even though metal is a bad insulator, and heats the air much more than plastic, the cold air they suck from under the bumper is so much colder than the air from the engine bay which stock intakes suck in...that overall you are gaining SOME advantage.
HOWEVER, if they made that pipe from an insulating material, or if they wrapped it with insulating materials, it would suck in cold air and deliver it cold to the engine. Why is everybody failing to understand that?
+Capcatrei Why don't you go do your own research on CAI vs. Ram air vs. Icebox intakes. They've been around for years, I don't see why you're giving this UA-camr a hard time. If it's that big an issue for you wrap the pipe with some exhaust wrap to help insulate the pipe. The fact is the air is going to be colder than it would be if you picked it up straight out of the engine bay with a ram air intake. Ffs.
I have a 2008 Mazdaspeed 3 with the 2.3L MZR DISI IL4 Turbo engine,... Would I have to tune after installing the Mazda Mazdaspeed Performance Cold Air Intake? Or can I get away with not tuning? There are no mods to car now. Its completely stock. The CAI would be the only and first mod. Thanks in advance.
It may not be related but since an intake install gives you access to the throttle body, are you required to clean throttle bodies on sports cars?.
+ViciousJackal16 It's a good idea to clean that on any car. At least the intake got cleaned out, I mean replaced, lol :)
Could you make a video on air-cooled engines?
What is a good cold air intake for a 2000 chevy tahoe limited edition
Can someone tell me if the airbox resonator and helmholtz resonator is the same?
Please make a video comparing lightweight flywheel vs stock and compare the MPG. Does it improve or decrease?
+Rodrigo Cunillé Great idea! Do you happen to know if flywheels are the same on manuals and automatics? It kills me that I'm illiterate on this subject. Tons of lightweight flywheels are available for my car, but they give me the feeling they're for a manual only.
DE Nichols Flywheels are only for manual transmissions. Automatic transmissions use a flex plate that is similar to a flywheel but a it's already lightweight. So a lightweight flywheel is only for a manual transmission. I really don't know if there are aftermarket lightweight flex plates.
Rodrigo Cunillé Thank you.
Has anyone ever measured the towr to tower distance, and monitored under road conditions to see how much movement that bar has to deal with.....
So when are you going to do some actual real performance upgrades
Cool Video! What happens if you hit a huge puddle and soak your air filter? would it suck water in or since that pipe is as hell would it not even make it to the throttle body? Also how would a wet air filter affect the car?
It is shielded by the fender liner.
For small puddles the fender liner should protect it from water splashing on it. If you were to go into a deeper puddle, deep enough to reach the filter, it is possible to hydrolock the engine. If you're lucky, it will simply stall. Otherwise the weakest link will break (the piston tries to compress water, which it cannot).
Engineering Explained Break* =P
In my shop class and there was a supercharged 4 cylinder engine that came out of a Audi (i don't know what model) and the rods, rings, and crank was all types of screwed up. turns the guy ran it through a really deep puddle and the supercharger pulled it all in and ruined it. now we have a screwed up Audi engine.
TheSamplebridge You should really go to English class.
im looking to throw on an old cold air intake i have laying around on my 91 corolla, its going to fit but i dont have a plug in for the AIT (air intake temp) on my cold air intake, can i just have the AIT plugged in but just hanging around in the engine bay? by the filter maybe?
"Note: Due to the lower location of the intake filter, sucking in water and hydrolocking your engine can become an issue." Wish I had known that six months ago.
hey i have a unrelated question ive been on a hunt for the brackets that connect the tabs of the bumper to frame if u know what they are called please let me know theres one on each side and it bends downwards to hook up to the frame please let me know
Let's say I have a 3 speed, inline 6 engine that I don't know how high it revs because I don't have a tachometer. (My engine revs on the higher side) Will this give me better gas mileage?
God damn, this litteraly brings back sooooo many memories of my 98' dc2
Get another one bro as a project car
only available in Japan and Europe, unless i get one ported to the US, which is a lot of money. I can afford it, but it will be a long hassle. Also i dont know if it is approved for shipping to the us. It would overall be expensive and a headache.
Do all cold air intakes bring in the air from such a low position, or do some filters sit in the engine bay?
I'm pretty sure that some do indeed sit in the engine bay
+Jackson Summers
cold air is defined as outside of eng bay how far outside is dependent on car type and space for equipment long ram air intakes defeat the purpose and usually bring the filter closer to the exhaust head as opposed to the fire wall.
i love these videos
My '88 ranger had an air filter box, but it would draw cold air from the front grill of the truck. Every cold air intake I've seen has the filter exposed all around, but I wonder what happens when you start driving through puddles in the rain and water is splashing up? Does the water ever clog up the filter when it's not in an enclosed box?
Also, wouldn't my ranger be just as efficient using an K&N in a filter box since it draws the air from a cold source? Or is there more efficiency to the exposed cylindrical filter drawing air all around?
***** Depends how restrictive the resonator is to make the intake quieter. If you're pulling from the outside already, you won't be pulling in cooler air, obviously. The restriction could make a difference, but it's different in almost every case. I'll have test results posted soon!
As long as you don't go romping through deep water with a cold air intake, chances are you will be just fine!
Won't that long metal pipe just absorb engine bay heat and the incoming air then pick up the heat and feed it back into the engine? Shouldn't the pipe be made of plastic, wrapped in reflective aluminium tape?
Hi there!
I am currently studying mechanical engineering, lets see if I can help. I haven't taken heat transfer yet but i do know the basics. Maybe Engineering Explained can confirm what I am explaining.
So, basic knowledge of heat transfer tells you that metal transfers heat faster than plastics. Its due to the thermal conductivity of the metal. Higher thermal conductivity of a given material results in faster heat transfer. You can notice this yourself when you touch a piece of metal, it will be cold due to the metal transfering your body heat from you. So when the pipe sits in the engine bay it is cooling off more than say a plastic pipe, which would take some time to heat up but once it does it will stay hot (due to plastics crappy thermal conductivity). A metal pipe in combination with convection effects (air flow) will further cool down the pipe. For example, convective cooling effect can be seen in heat sinks on the back of a DJ speaker. The heat sinks are made out of metal (probably aluminum) and have fins. These fins allow air to flow through the heat sink further cooling the metal. Believe it or not this prevents the speaker from overheating. Anyways, I hope I answered your question. Any additional questions just ask.
Someone told me thoes will lock up your engine because there not covered at the bottom? So it will suck up water? And blow the engine is that true?
dont you have to reconnect the Airflowmeter?
what do I do with the one tube from the throttle body the Intake has the thing for the valve cover hose and then I have two coming from throttle body that go in stock intake
I don't understand how this makes the air cooler.
I mean it seems like the same thing as your intake before except without a resonator.
Air still just flows though a filter, through a pipe, into the engine just like before right?
And if this is the case what is the point of even having a long metal pipe? Why cant you simply attach a filter right to the throttle body?
iwillavengeyou The whole purpose is to pull air from outside, not from the hot engine bay. The stock setup in this case pulls from the engine bay.
How was the car after the intake installed?
Does the CAI cause a missfire??
Can't you just modify that new tube/hose and place it near the throttlebody, to prevent sucking in water by the intake. But when attached, maybe it will now suck in some engine heath?
That's basically the short ram intake concept. Which has been covered in the last two #ProjectIntegra videos
Nicktrance1 It's a concpet/theory. But the question is does it actually work in practice? I look forward to the test results because intake mods have always been the subject of controversy. I know that it brings out the *woosh* and *pshhhh* sound it turbo cars but the horsepower gains are debatable.
As much as I love the BOV/BPV sounds I would rather spend $150-350 on mods that without a doubt will bring out performace gains that no one debates. I have a Mazdaspeed 6 and plan on buying tunning software kit plus some cheap (but non controversial mods) so I don't waste the little money that I can afford to spend.
PS: I think that the headturning intake BOV/BPV sound isn't something I want cops to hear while I'm boosting lol.
sir can u open up the old cold air in n show how it works plzz
TVYM
What is the purpose of the resonator?
does anyone know if you have to take off the fender liner or you put it back on once the filter and the lower intake tube is installed.
What's your jack stand setup, and is removing the silencer similar for other cars?
Grant Rodgers Different cars have things located in different areas, the overall procedure will be similar but unique to each vehicle. I think I bought the jack stands at Autozone, 2 or 3 ton.
cool, thanks!
when are you going to install a header?
Did the sound changed?
are cold air intakes vehicle specific?
Why not install it on the existing hose?
Where is the best place to find parts for my car? It's not a Honda or what not (Saturn) and I just want to put one on my car for the hell of it lol
What's the purpose of the resonator box?
I have seen some people that put their cold air intake similarly where the short ram intake is supposed to be, does it make any difference?
+Carlos Quinonez It depends on where you're driving if that difference is better or worse. If I had a cold air intake I'd do better in the hottest summer, but at all other times I'm better off with my short ram.
Great video
replace the camshaft(s) ;)
You have to thermal wrap a cold intake for it to be an actual cold air intake people! Why is nobody else doing this? That metal tube is going to get so hot, so fast, and heat all that air coming in that was cold when it entered.
+Inner Ear Thing I just made a video about how I had to heat up even a short ram for maximum power, but I love your tip. In the summer my pipe does get too hot, insulating it may or may not help though, since I think the impulses of heat from the chambers, which actually go up every intake, may be the true source of heat and if I insulate the short ram intake, I may actualy make the air even hotter in the summer.
But since this video is a true cold air intake, if you want it even colder, insulation may help. It's just that in my case I'm comparing a short ram that I need to get even hotter overcoming the cooler part of the year, but I do things a bit cooler at the hottest part of the summer.
To sum up:
insulating may just keep heat in coming from the combustion chamber and the engine up the intake and radiating out from the intake piping, or it may help keep the cold air cooler if you have a true cold air intake
We need some summer back, some insulation, and a laser thermometer to figure out this one! :)
DE Nichols
I totally agree with that assessment.
I hope to one day know half of what you know about cars.
Christian Polanco If you watch all my videos you'll be at 100% of what I know, so your goal is very achievable! :)
what does the resonator do?
No, he did a short ram intake before.
Only thing that sucks is that if you hit a puddle your motors done . Had it happen to someone I know
Having the air filter so low in the car isn't dangerous? I mean on a rainy day the engine can suck up water, right?
Just make sure that the puddle isn't touching the intake. Depending on how low your car is(aftermarket springs) if half of your rims will get covered in water it would be very dumb to drive through that. They also include aftermarket splash shields sometime that come with the intake. That can help.
Umberto Bizzarro It absolutely can be. In a car like this I wouldn't recommend it if it's you're DD and you live in a rainy area. But with normal rain it should be fine as there is a fender liner protecting it.
Wow! I didn't regret to subscribes you.
Any test videos for the strut bar?
***** Nope, and honestly it's a pretty junk bar. The company who sent it said they'd be sending a different one, and this is what I ended up with. Ideally want something with less joints so it's rigid. I could solve this by welding it up, but i'd like to keep it easily removable for now.
do you need the resignator if you leave the oem air box?
+xCkillaxC Probably not. Some wait savings and less insulation from the cold air. I certainly wouldn't do it if there was any damage to the wheel liner, it's an extra layer of protection.
So, if you do it, keep the resonator in case you ever have damage to your liner, even if you don't hydrolock your engine, when I lost my resonator, my K&N filter got way filthier.