Ahh nice! It's really not too difficult once you understand how it all goes together. Sure beats the 30k we were quoted to have it put in! It's been working well for about 3 years now! Best of luck!
Do you have a video of your whole exiting plumbing setup? Curious to know what you used as a resource to figure this all out. We are in the process of building a house that requires a grinder pump and we have a finished basement. All the instructions I see are for a slab install. I can’t quite wrap my head around how to set this up with a basement. I see you mentioned in the comments that you also have a sewer pump. I’m assuming that is the missing link in my mind. Curious to know more on your setup. Thanks!
I don't think I have a video, but shoot me an email and I can send you some pictures or a video of our final setup. At the time, figuring all this out was a combination of online research, my plumber, the local utility, and the Eone rep. Ha
Does your sewer line from the basement gravity flow to this pump assembly i couldn't tell from the video ? I am about to begin construction on a new lake house and i will have to pump uphill from the septic to the field lines
I'm trying to put together an active pump out end of days downspout collection system with sewer pumps like this that go to the street or the storm. Is it possible to use this for that sort of application in a zone 7 climate like Western New York? In other words freezing winters? Looks like this is well below the frost line certainly. Bring all the downspouts to an exact silo like this and then pump discharge line into the storm drain and/or street? I'm hoping to use SDR 11 for the infeeds from the downspouts as well trying to decide if I would electrically weld, melt together or use compression fittings? Would love any insight
Hi…nice job! I am researching this subject because I am building a shop with a bathroom…that is about 15 feet lower than the septic tank. My frostline is 32” here in Colorado, and this seems like it definitely would meet that requirement. I have a question if I may…are you pushing it 800feet to sewer..or to septic? I am guessing sewer? My understanding is Grinder pumps are for sewer…and sewer/septic ejector pumps are for septic? I would like to find this style with an ejector pump for septic tanks. Thanks for the video…
Thanks! Yes, I believe you are correct. This grinder pump terminates at the sewer. A sewer ejector pit/pump is what you would want. In cases of a basement, the pit/pump is inside. I suppose you could have your shop empty into a pit like this outside that acts as a lift station to your septic tank. Sounds like you definitely are going to be pumping uphill to get to your tank. I'm not sure what kind of head a normal ejector pump will do. This grinder pump will do something ridiculous like 185ft of head.
This is the kind of stuff I love seeing. It directly applies to stuff I'll be needing to do going forward. I've seen the single piece ballast bottoms so that's another thing I can look for is the sectional cast ballast.
I have both! We have a finished basement with a bathroom and the exit point for sewage from our house is higher than the basement sewer pit. Thus, we have an ejector sewage pump to lift sewage out of our basement. Those are typically short runs. Very much like a sump pump, but rated for sewage. It lifts it and discharges it from the house into our E-One grinder pump. The E-One then 'slurries' and pumps it 800ft from our house. So they really have very different uses. I would say a good rule of thumb to keep it straight in your head is that the 'ejector' ejects it from the house and a 'grinder', "gets it gone".
I don't believe the hose itself has a check valve on it, but I am pretty sure there is 1, if not 2 in the unit itself. The line could freeze if you don't bury it deep enough. Code in your area would dictate the depth. Mine is at about 48" deep.
Are you asking about the termination of the 1.25" line? It goes into a manhole and then into a 3" or 4" schedule 40 drop line inside the manhole. I have a separate video on my page of that process.
That's a good question. I'm not sure what the code says. I can tell you that the power cord for the pump is probably 15ft or so. My guess is that's probably a good yardstick to follow.
This is the DH071. It requires a dedicated 30amp breaker and it is 240v. If you go to eone.com, you can download a manual for all their models which will give you specific wiring details.
An amazingly concise, clear, unambiguous instructive -- like ALL videos you make. Thank you so much. A question for you: I have an RV in the back of my home, about 130' from the street sewer. I was allowed to install a grinder and run a 130' discharge line from it to the street clean out, which in turn empties into the sewer. I am now wanting to convert a barn-style garage to a "mother in law" dwelling. The plan is to 1) install a second grinder whose 2) discharge line connects to the existing grinder's discharge line. Now comes the problem. The 1st line runs somewhat uphill. If I "T" the 2nd line into it I am concerned that "stuff" in the 2nd line could backup into the 1st line. Do you happen to know if this is a) do-able or b) not recommended or c) ok but requires some special "T" that perhaps closes line 1 while line 2 is discharging? Thank you so much. Your videos ROCK.
Hey James, thank you very much! I appreciate that. I try to be helpful and informative. First of all, can you elaborate on this "stuff" you speak of? haha JK. So to answer you question, A) Doable? Yea, probably so. You could install check valves on each line before the T. That way, once the "stuff" gets past the valve, it has no way to go backwards. B) Not recommended? I would say that's up to your local sewer provider? They had a lot of say in my build. C) See item B. I think they should be able to tell you what is code/permissible. The fact that they let you hookup a grinder for your RV would leave me to believe that they dont' care. Or if you want to go the don't ask/don't tell route, I think a couple check valves would get you what you need.
Could you not have dropped your sewer at the clean-out and put a sweep on it before going into the side of the grinder so the unit could be set lower for back-filling?
Looking back on it, I suppose I could have. Truly, the issue wasn't the discharge location of the line from the house, but rather the fact that our foundation crew stepped the wall down (I don't know why) by a foot in that section. If you look at the 11:03 mark, you can see the concrete is a foot higher in the corner and then drops down. Had they carried that height across, it would have been perfect.
If you don't have a generator and the power goes out you still can't flush the toilet when you are on well water. Mute point for us, but definitely applicable if you are on city water with septic.
Yes it is. You won't find it at your big box stores. You will need to go to a specialty plumbing supplier or check online. 1.25" HDPE or also called SDR11
Yea, in retrospect that would have worked. It would have meant more depth for my discharge line though too. That area near the house isn't perfect but it's working out OK. Suppose I know for next time, but I also hope there never is a next time. ha
Calculate your head. And make sure you are meeting scouring velocity of the 1.25 you are going to have a lot of head for that long of a line. You may not be pumping fast enough. You may have settling in your pipe. E ones are not very powerful pumps. :/ There are a lot of other pumps for the same price that are more powerful and reliable . Let me see if I can find the head calculator
This is the kind of stuff I love seeing. It directly applies to stuff I'll be needing to do going forward. I've seen the single piece ballast bottoms so that's another thing I can look for is the sectional cast ballast.
Thanks for making this video, going to be installing an identical setup for our pool cabana, tying into our existing septic system.
Ahh nice! It's really not too difficult once you understand how it all goes together. Sure beats the 30k we were quoted to have it put in! It's been working well for about 3 years now! Best of luck!
Where I can’t find this grinder pump and how much thank you
Very nice video! We just bought a house with an E-One grinder pump and I was curious about the setup. Your video explains a lot.
How much does the hardware cost for a project like this?
Do you have a video of your whole exiting plumbing setup? Curious to know what you used as a resource to figure this all out. We are in the process of building a house that requires a grinder pump and we have a finished basement. All the instructions I see are for a slab install. I can’t quite wrap my head around how to set this up with a basement. I see you mentioned in the comments that you also have a sewer pump. I’m assuming that is the missing link in my mind. Curious to know more on your setup. Thanks!
I don't think I have a video, but shoot me an email and I can send you some pictures or a video of our final setup. At the time, figuring all this out was a combination of online research, my plumber, the local utility, and the Eone rep. Ha
Really great video, clear detailed information. Keep up the good work and thank you.
Thank you! Are you tackling such an install yourself too?
Does your sewer line from the basement gravity flow to this pump assembly i couldn't tell from the video ? I am about to begin construction on a new lake house and i will have to pump uphill from the septic to the field lines
Our 1st and 2nd floors gravity flow into the grinder pump, but our basement has an ejector pump that lifts about 4ft to get it into the grinder pump.
I'm trying to put together an active pump out end of days downspout collection system with sewer pumps like this that go to the street or the storm. Is it possible to use this for that sort of application in a zone 7 climate like Western New York? In other words freezing winters? Looks like this is well below the frost line certainly. Bring all the downspouts to an exact silo like this and then pump discharge line into the storm drain and/or street? I'm hoping to use SDR 11 for the infeeds from the downspouts as well trying to decide if I would electrically weld, melt together or use compression fittings? Would love any insight
Hi…nice job! I am researching this subject because I am building a shop with a bathroom…that is about 15 feet lower than the septic tank. My frostline is 32” here in Colorado, and this seems like it definitely would meet that requirement.
I have a question if I may…are you pushing it 800feet to sewer..or to septic? I am guessing sewer? My understanding is Grinder pumps are for sewer…and sewer/septic ejector pumps are for septic? I would like to find this style with an ejector pump for septic tanks.
Thanks for the video…
Thanks! Yes, I believe you are correct. This grinder pump terminates at the sewer. A sewer ejector pit/pump is what you would want. In cases of a basement, the pit/pump is inside. I suppose you could have your shop empty into a pit like this outside that acts as a lift station to your septic tank. Sounds like you definitely are going to be pumping uphill to get to your tank. I'm not sure what kind of head a normal ejector pump will do. This grinder pump will do something ridiculous like 185ft of head.
This is the kind of stuff I love seeing. It directly applies to stuff I'll be needing to do going forward. I've seen the single piece ballast bottoms so that's another thing I can look for is the sectional cast ballast.
@@IndyFarmLife oh nice. I wonder if they make a 3pt vibratory trencher/puller
@@IndyFarmLife ahh yeah I forgot it had to be down that far. They are cheap enough to rent occasionally anyway.
Grinder vs. ejector? Which is better and more reliable?
I have both! We have a finished basement with a bathroom and the exit point for sewage from our house is higher than the basement sewer pit. Thus, we have an ejector sewage pump to lift sewage out of our basement. Those are typically short runs. Very much like a sump pump, but rated for sewage. It lifts it and discharges it from the house into our E-One grinder pump. The E-One then 'slurries' and pumps it 800ft from our house. So they really have very different uses. I would say a good rule of thumb to keep it straight in your head is that the 'ejector' ejects it from the house and a 'grinder', "gets it gone".
Hi great video, I need to install one I. Northern NH. Just wondering if discharge hose has a one way valve on it and curious if line could freeze
I don't believe the hose itself has a check valve on it, but I am pretty sure there is 1, if not 2 in the unit itself. The line could freeze if you don't bury it deep enough. Code in your area would dictate the depth. Mine is at about 48" deep.
I’d like to see the union between the dollar Schaefer line and the sewer pipe. Or does it dump into a manhole to then gravity feed away
Are you asking about the termination of the 1.25" line? It goes into a manhole and then into a 3" or 4" schedule 40 drop line inside the manhole. I have a separate video on my page of that process.
How far away from the house is the grinder allowed to be?
That's a good question. I'm not sure what the code says. I can tell you that the power cord for the pump is probably 15ft or so. My guess is that's probably a good yardstick to follow.
Did you have to use a septic tank or run you 11/4 pipestraight to the field lines when you got to them.
We are hooked up to city sewer. No septic tank or field. I have another video showing me finishing it up and plumbing it to the manhole.
What AC power is needed for this particular unit? Breaker, wire size etc
This is the DH071. It requires a dedicated 30amp breaker and it is 240v. If you go to eone.com, you can download a manual for all their models which will give you specific wiring details.
@@IndyFarmLife thank you for the response
How can I buy a E/One Brand Grinder Pump? I am not finding anyone that sells them. The company will not sell to me directly.
You need to find one of their distributors. You can use the below link.
eone.com/sewer-systems/sales-service/usa
ballpark cost of the pump unit and materials?
I was in it for about $7,500, and that's abosolutely everything. I had an a run of about 850ft.
An amazingly concise, clear, unambiguous instructive -- like ALL videos you make. Thank you so much. A question for you: I have an RV in the back of my home, about 130' from the street sewer. I was allowed to install a grinder and run a 130' discharge line from it to the street clean out, which in turn empties into the sewer. I am now wanting to convert a barn-style garage to a "mother in law" dwelling. The plan is to 1) install a second grinder whose 2) discharge line connects to the existing grinder's discharge line. Now comes the problem. The 1st line runs somewhat uphill. If I "T" the 2nd line into it I am concerned that "stuff" in the 2nd line could backup into the 1st line. Do you happen to know if this is a) do-able or b) not recommended or c) ok but requires some special "T" that perhaps closes line 1 while line 2 is discharging? Thank you so much. Your videos ROCK.
Hey James, thank you very much! I appreciate that. I try to be helpful and informative. First of all, can you elaborate on this "stuff" you speak of? haha JK. So to answer you question, A) Doable? Yea, probably so. You could install check valves on each line before the T. That way, once the "stuff" gets past the valve, it has no way to go backwards. B) Not recommended? I would say that's up to your local sewer provider? They had a lot of say in my build. C) See item B. I think they should be able to tell you what is code/permissible. The fact that they let you hookup a grinder for your RV would leave me to believe that they dont' care. Or if you want to go the don't ask/don't tell route, I think a couple check valves would get you what you need.
@@IndyFarmLife Perfect response and almost immediate. I said it exactly right the first time: you rock! =)
Could you not have dropped your sewer at the clean-out and put a sweep on it before going into the side of the grinder so the unit could be set lower for back-filling?
Looking back on it, I suppose I could have. Truly, the issue wasn't the discharge location of the line from the house, but rather the fact that our foundation crew stepped the wall down (I don't know why) by a foot in that section. If you look at the 11:03 mark, you can see the concrete is a foot higher in the corner and then drops down. Had they carried that height across, it would have been perfect.
Why did you decide to go with this instead of putting a septic tank system in? Great video as always!
Why in the world do you want septic. Get that shit out of there.
@@shahsmerdis because if you run out of electric you cant flush your toilet.
If you don't have a generator and the power goes out you still can't flush the toilet when you are on well water. Mute point for us, but definitely applicable if you are on city water with septic.
Wat size was that discharge line
1.25" HDPE
@@IndyFarmLife I've never seen that pipe before as far as Plumbing is that common to use for a sewer pump outside because I have to install one soon
Yes it is. You won't find it at your big box stores. You will need to go to a specialty plumbing supplier or check online. 1.25" HDPE or also called SDR11
@@IndyFarmLife OK thanks
Good video. I subbed
Shouldn't the PVC Pipe be green designating sewage?
Ive put in a lot of sewer pumps but never where a septic would work. And there was no reason you couldn’t have 45’ed the line lower after the T.
Yea, in retrospect that would have worked. It would have meant more depth for my discharge line though too. That area near the house isn't perfect but it's working out OK. Suppose I know for next time, but I also hope there never is a next time. ha
Wow that is easy I think I can do it 😊
Napa makes hyd lines in store on spot.
Really?!? That's very useful if so!
@@IndyFarmLife they do in wa state. Bring in old hose. Not all stores but about 6 out or 10 around here do. Call them first.
Calculate your head. And make sure you are meeting scouring velocity of the 1.25 you are going to have a lot of head for that long of a line. You may not be pumping fast enough. You may have settling in your pipe. E ones are not very powerful pumps. :/
There are a lot of other pumps for the same price that are more powerful and reliable . Let me see if I can find the head calculator
This is the kind of stuff I love seeing. It directly applies to stuff I'll be needing to do going forward. I've seen the single piece ballast bottoms so that's another thing I can look for is the sectional cast ballast.
I'm glad it was helpful! Yea, the modular ballast was much easier to work with!