DO NOT BUY This Air Compressor Ingersoll Rand 5HP 80 Gal 2 Stage Review
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- Опубліковано 4 сер 2020
- Do not buy this Ingersoll Rand 5HP 80 Gal Two Stage compressor. I bought this about a year and half ago from Tractor Supply Warehouse and the motor has failed TWICE! One time fire was shooting out of the motor.
I tried a few simple things to fix the motor but it required another replacement.
Ingersoll Rand was not returning my calls and said sorry, it's out of warrantee.
I thought I bought an industrial compressor, but it won't even work at home.
Next time I will spend a bit more and get a Quincy
amzn.to/2DEqiFq
I got the replacement motor from Compressor Source on Ebay
ebay.us/Q7DCVj
UPDATE VIDEO HERE: • Ingersoll Rand Air Com...
Ingersoll Rand's response plus I added a magnetic motor starter switch
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I bought one like this one at tractor supply 11 years ago and never had any problems. Thanks.
Thank you for taking the time to do this video. Customer service to me what makes or break a company.
I have the same compressor. 15 years old. The original motor lasted 6 months. The replacement lasted 13 years problem free till it blew. Discovered the main issue is that it really needs a magnetic starter not the one in the pressure switch. The motor I replaced it with is the same that you used. Only lasted 13 months just past warranty. Well all better now a new 5 hp but much larger heavier motor (Weg) and a magnetic starter from compressor source. What a difference it is quite apparent the difference from the others very heavy duty. Went from a 5/8” shaft to a 7/8” shaft and a new pulley it is set to start at 145 psi and shut off at 175 psi. It starts just as strong at 145 as 0. The tech at compressor source is extremely knowledgeable! The only mod I had to make were a few new holes for mounting and a larger belt because of the new motor size had to move it back a bit. Better than new!!!
I've been in the market for a good 60 gallon 2 stage upright. I spoke with a local shop they use Bel-Air compressors in their shop with zero issues. Excellent customer service and the best warranty 3yrs bumper to bumper. Thanks for the great video. 👍
Yeah, everyone recommends them as one of the few great American made compressor companies left.
I was looking at IR but I'll take a look at Bel-Air instead or maybe a few other options. Their lack of due care for their existing customers can go ahead and cost them a new one.
Bel aire is supposedly great!
Moral of the story. Want a job well done. Do it yourself.
Hi Tom, I'm sorry you've had bad luck with your air compressor. But, it's great that you fixed it. My compressor looks just like yours. I bought it in 2003. It's an IR type 30 model TS4L5. The fact that it's 17yrs old make ALL the difference. 100% U.S.A. I've had zero issues all this time. I hope you have no more problems. Good luck
Yep my previous air compressor was a craftsman 5hp and it still ran after 30 years. The bracket the held the motor wore out, ha ha.
I've had mine for 9 years and not a moments trouble. I have it plumbed to my shop, my garage and my spray room. Works without fail.
Is the belt on your IR compressor super tight, which is why OP thinks his motor failed so soon?
@@GilFavor101 I just took a piece of 3/16" rod and went through the cage, pressed up on the belt and yes, it seems very tight. Probably about 1/4" movement.
If I had to compare it to something, I would say it was like a properly adjusted chain on a chainsaw.
Thank you for this video. I paid more and bought an EMAX. I couldn't be happier.
Thank you for making this video!
I purchased mine from tsc in 2019. Painting cabinet parts and other daily tasks in the woodshop. Recently sandblasting some aluminum wheels. Sorry you had trouble with yours thanks for the vid
Great feedback! Thank you
can you see the discolored winding? you have a shorted winding.
Almost bought one of those about 3 years ago, glad I didn't. Found a year old T30 series for $600. Your belt is too loose, you can hear it squeal on start up.
Get a Baldor motor.
Definitely go with Baldor! If you have another failure go with one from Baldor, I don't see many fail at all in compressor duty applications!
@@amswanson1256 Just wondering how you would rate "DAYTON" motors ?
Just asking for a friend...
Thanks for posting the video, I was looking at those units the other day. Many techs will replace both the start/run capacitor and the motor together, because they are not confident that testing a cap with a multimeter is sensitive enough. There are other ways to check capacitors, for example ESR meters, but it turns out, no test is perfect. The price on those capacitors is so small it is considered good practice to simply replace them with the motor.
Right the new motor came with its own capacitors.
Anytime a motor goes bad on a newer compressor like this I always replace the two pole motor with a four pole one.Two pole motors run at high speed and need big capacitors and high current to start which causes them to fail sooner.Four pole motors run slower but have more starting torque.The only thing is you have to get a bigger motor pulley and a different belt.
I have same one. Did same thing. Took caps to be tested. They tested good. Replaced them anyway and has been running perfect for over a year
Good to know. I have a friend who wants to buy the original motor
I bought this same unit at Tractor Supply and have used it daily in my shop for about 4 years now and haven't had any issues. I would still recommend it to anyone that asked me about it.
Cool, I wish I had the older version. They changed the motor again after my second one.
Thanks for the review. I was about to pull the trigger on this exact unit but after seeing how they did you I’m moving on to another brand. 👍🏼
Check out the Quincy
I’ve had this same compressor for 4 years or so and never had a lick of trouble with it. If the motor went bad tho first thing I would do would be go grab a ballador motor for it. Those are all made in China and just ASSEMBLED in the US.... cheap junk really but knock on wood mines been fine
Motor made in Mexico
This is an awesome unit and it is bullet proof when you drain the tank regularly change the oil to synthetic and monitor the intake filters it will run for years! Just make sure you get the set up with motor starter and thermal relay installed . This way the pressure switch is under no load and is simply switching the motor starter on and off. Those pressure switches just aren’t good motor starters when you get up around 5hp. You need the magnetic contactor handling the load. Northern tool offers this exact compressor with the motor control already wired.
@@beckyschwantes5287 what kind of motor starter and thermal relay? Do you mean a magnetic contactor switch?
THANKS for the video on this -- I had the same unit planned to buy -- not now after the vid. Buying American MADE FSCurtis unit. Seen other Vids on the cheap Ingersoll rand defects -- it use to be a trusted name -- not now -- glad I FOUND your video -- thanks again for sharing.
Right on
I have a schulz from brazil. Have it for 6 years now. Stil working perfect
Cook👍
Well this was actually informative to me. Here I thought my install was faulty. Mine started on fire after I stupidly increased the breaker size after it kept tripping. Ingersoll was no help. I wanted a new motor and a switch that would shut air pressure off at 130psi. I figured 170 a little excessive for that motor size. Been running my garage shop on a bostich pancake compressor. Maybe some day I'll finish repairs on the IR. But looks like I need to look at pump issues as well.
Thanks.
Good luck, many here suggest a magnetic motor starter to handle the larger motor current draw. I'll probably add this to mine as insurance.
I agree. I've worked with heavy industrial equipment for over 40 years. This was the first flame shooting motor I've come across. Glad I was actually working in the garage when she fried. Other wise I'd be homeless. So recapping rebuild kit for pump. New moto. New motor starter. After all that should have just jumped up to the model size. Grrrrrr.
Unreal i had heard so many good things from IR, i was actually planning on getting a T30 here soon. But have been doing a bit of research and came across your video
Good for you to do research first.
I almost ordered a IR tonight until seeing this. I'll be going with the 10hp Emax now. Thank you !
Lol big difference in this compressor and a 10hp emax
@@alexkomala I actually ended up going with a Quincy Rotary-Screw. By the time we figured out a dryer and shipping to set up the Emax I was about 1500 more into the Quincy and plus now I have 10 cfms more vs the Emax.
@@krazykozey2259 good choice there. Will end up going that route once my shop picks up. I ended up finding an 80gal BelAire for dirt cheap over the weekend so I snagged it on Saturday
Start capacitor, same thing happened to mine. Works well now.
I have that compressor. The new one had a rattle to it. I have used it with a die grinder for head porting and it will run constantly for about two hours straight. Ingersol replaced it in my own shop with one of their techs. I still have the 60 gallon compressor from Ingersol that I’ve had for 18 years.
Wow, mine has never run that long straight. Maybe 5 minutes max, ha ha. Hope the new one lasts!
I had the same problem with a Quincy, but the moment the repair man told me “These motors have been failing a lot!” I immediately told him, I don’t want it! To make the longs story short, I talked to the store manager and he swapped the lemon compressor for another one with a slightly bigger motor and the thing went for ten years in an auto repair shop, it included fixing flats. Two months after the exchange I received a notice from Quincy letting me know what the problem was with the returned compressor. There was a factory defect on the pump causing the motor to overheat and wear out prematurely. YOUR COMPRESSOR SHOULD BE ABLE TO RUN ALL DAY, EVERY DAY IN A SHOP LIKE MINE. YES SIR! Ingersoll Rand is a brand name and their compressors are perhaps the best in the world. Talk to management and offer them a deal. Pay a difference in price if you have to.
I really don't have the space and will to install another larger compressor.
These compressors are all the same China made and rebadged.
FYI, I've had the exact same unit, that I bought at Home Depot in 2002. They were closing out the line at their stores at the time. I haven't had any problems with mine and am sorry to hear that yours has not worked out for you. I too am a home owner but I use the compressor often mainly for my fabricating and air tools. As others mention you might be better off with a better quality motor.
Thanks, I've heard multiple reports of older IR units working just fine.
The new replacement motor is still going strong and has outlasted the two previous IR ones. Fingers crossed.
Now you've done it 😋. Now you have me worried about mine. I bought one of those from Tractor Supply 5-6 years ago and it has run great. I leave mine on 24/7, just close a valve where the air exists the tank and leave it with pressure on it. I turn the valve when I'm ready to use it.
You are probably fine if it's that old already. Heck I'd you've made past 6 months you probably will never have a problem.
I too turn off that valve on the side.
This is an awesome compressor his install tech just screwed him! You should be draining your tank daily.
@@beckyschwantes5287 i try to drain it daily. wife said once a week.
your right! I have the same compressor and had the same problem with the motor but mine didn't blew up. I test it with no load and it was running great so I reinstalled it with less tension on the belt. Now it slips a little at each start but I never had any problems since,
Ok, thanks for letting me know. My belt squeals for a brief moment and then it's fine. I'd rather replace a belt than the motor. Glad yours is still running.
Got the same one have had it almost 2 yrs without issue (yet). I'm hoping I just got lucky with the unit
I have an IR 2340 5hp 80 gallon 2 stage. Home use, about like your use. Mine's 20 years old. I did have to replace the pressure switch on it once. Perhaps the dealers and Our masters in China, think that we shouldn't be able to buy anything that lasts 20 years anymore. My clothes washers, dryers, refrigerators, HVAC systems etc...no longer last 20 years. Perhaps they are trying to teach us that we don't deserve modern conveniences...green new deal.
I was going to buy a new compressor. Then I decided to buy something used. I now have an 80 gallon champion compressor with an r15 pump. It’s amazing any I found it for $1000. It’s normally $3k brand new.
Good call!
Sorry to hear this Tom. Customer service isn't what it used to be. I have there SS5 and have heard they had trouble with these motors. Last time I worked on mine, I left the belt a little loose like you did. In the colder months, I had to go back and re tighten it some. It probably gets alot colder here than in your area, but it worth keeping a check on. I'll save the link in case I need one. Thanks.
I really hope you don't have the same trouble with your compressor. Good idea to keep on eye on that belt tension. Best of luck Russell!
i was just going to buy one 60 GAL thanks for that Infomation !!! Thank you .
Glad I could help
This was the compressor that I was going to buy just as soon as weather breaks in Michigan. It costs more than its competitors do, but being Ingersoll Rand - the very best - it would be worth it. No Way! I will find an industrial compressor that lasts. I'm sad to see such a brand icon like Ingersoll Rand suffer such a decline.
Right, check the motor ratings and where it's made. Ingersoll rand told me their new motor is made by WEG. They told me they fixed this problem. I hope so.
That's the way I feel. Sad. Dad had an Ingersoll Rand compressor that he bough used in 1981, and it lasted another 25 years, till he had to replace the head. Leeson Motor, Sanborn pump on it now.
New motors are NOT made by weg, until you get to 15HP..
@@bubbadarubba what kind to motor do you recommend to replace the 5hp IR one?
Ive been hearing alot of bad stuff about their customer service so guess what ? Im not buying their products, this is BS.
They did get back to me after I had already replaced the motor. Apparently they saw this video which helps in my case, but what is everyone else to do? They did offer me a new motor, but I took an IR credit instead.
I have measured capacitors that the value tests right on, and they are not shorted (+ to - or + to the case) and the motor hums. Swap it out and it runs fine. There is one winding; the caps give it a boost to start until the switch opens, and it also assures correct rotation. The motor could hum until you spin it, and it could run either direction without the cap. 🙂
Agree on that Dave, had lots of farm motor caps. quit. Replaced and away we go.
Thanks for the info
Usually a humming motor is a bad start/run capacitor, and sometimes the starter switch like you said.
The wire gauge and breakers are exactly the reason for so much failure on these motors. The crank up amps are the kick start of this motor, smaller wire other than 8 gauge will brown out on startup. This motor needs all available amps to start it, running amps are one thing, have enough amps on start up is another. If you have any thing less than 8 gauge wire from the breaker box, your headed for motor failure.
Another youtube vid had same problem with this unit, compressor was killing motors. The solution on that vid was he added a magnetic starter. Another thing to consider is the pulley dia on the motor pulley. If you decrease the dia of the motor pulley then the motor does not have to struggle as hard to spool up, although the pump rpm will be slower.
That was me who added the magnetic starter.
Wow! I have a Quincey and have never had an issue. I will turn it off at the panel from now on though.
Yep, I should have bought the Quincy. Good idea to turn off in case something springs a leak and the compressor just keeps running. It should have a thermal overload, but like I said I had flames on mine.
I thoroughly enjoyed your video (and the follow up) and your down-to-earth presentation style. Great job! I do have one question though: What is that white stuff that shoots out of the motor/belt/pulley area on top of the compressor towards you every time you turn the compressor on? It seems to shoot out at the exact same time you hear the chirp from the belt slipping. I was thinking maybe frozen condensation (ice) created by a release of the compressed air to atmospheric pressure??? You can see it at ~7:31 and ~9:10. Just curious.
Oh thx. I have not noticed this. My guess is dust or packing material that came with the new motor.
I see what you mean in the video, but I haven't seen anything like it since. The belt still squeeks btw.
Compressor is still doing fine.
Chinese components “Proudly assembled in the US “.
Hopefully that current motor is still going. Aside from the motor issues, it seems to be a good compressor. I have been looking around at compressors and have stumbled upon Jenny compressors and plan to buy one. They aren't cheap, but are really well made.
I found out that Jenny was formed by former Emglo employees when Emglo sold out to Stanley Black & Decker, who had a Mexico plant (DeWalt), so the long time American employees of Emglo got laid off instantly. A new Jenny compressor is the same as an Emglo that you would find from the 1980s. I love the idea of buying something in 2023 that is brand new, but is built the same as it would be back then.
Mine is still running! Glad you found a good brand!
Your belt needs to be tighter. It would have been useful to check the capacitors they have an internal fuse usually when the centrifugal start switch gets stuck on the start mode. Some multi meters have a capacitor selection. You did the right thing if your not versed in the internal working of a compressor motor. It's to bad you had to spend an extra three - four hundred or so dollars for a new motor but the compressor manufacturers have to work with no margin for profit they buy from the lowest price source. If it lasts past the warranty there happy. They don't care about you! I'm now in the buying stage for a new compressor and I read every review I can find. Bottom line I would not buy an IR. Thanks for your video!
Sucks that you've had trouble. IR replaced a motor under warranty for me also. It's been good ever since.
Several issues with this video. First 50 amps is waaaaaay to much breaker. No wonder fire came out.
During the inspection of the windings it's clear by the dark stripe that the start winding is burned. Measuring voltage in a capacitor only tells you if it's not open or shorted but doesn't tell you if it's low.
Put an amp clamp on and see what the actual amp draw is. I installed a smaller motor pulley on mine, trying to be nice, to drop the amp draw a bit as my compressor is exposed to 115+ degree ambient temps. The drop in cfm isn't noticable as this compressor far exceeds my needs.
Best of luck, Sir
Thing to check on hard starts with pressure in the tank is the check valve unloader if there is pressure between the compressor head and tank it will cause it to be air bound so when it goes to start there is already air in the cylinders on the compressor head just something to check
Looks like the same unit at our local golf course except it is the single stage compressor. I believe the motor and relay controller are identical. I had to replace the relay early on because it burned up and then the motor burned out and had to replace it. Next the screws backed out the plate that holds the reed valves in place and one of them got lodged in the check valve going into the tank. After pulling the head and reworking the valves assembly it worked for a few more months. Now it won't pump pressure at all. It will blow air but with no pressure. Valves are okay this time so as soon as I get a new set of rings and gaskets I will replace the rings next. Judging by the problems with this compressor I could not recommend buying one. I personally have the Quincy QT5 and there is little comparison. Of course it costs double the IR unit.
Thanks for sharing your experiences too. We aren't alone.
Oh, man. That sucks. I bought about the same one, but only 60gal. Probably about the same usage as you, too. Guess it's only a matter of time. Glad you got it back working, though!
Some guys say these things run forever. My old craftsman compressor ran for 30 years. Maybe I should have bought a used compressor, ha ha. I think I'm just un lucky with this one.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto Well, to coin an old saying, they definitely don't make things like they used to!
True
Hearing all of this stuff about their QC and CS makes me so sad. Good old American company ruined by cost cutting because investors pressuring for higher profits and pure greed. Then they won't stand behind their products. I'll be looking elsewhere.
Well said. I hope you find something of quality
I’ve had this same compressor for 4 years or so and never had a lick of trouble with it. If the motor went bad tho first thing I would do would be go grab a ballador motor for it. Those are all made in China and just ASSEMBLED in the US.... cheap junk really but knock on wood mines been fine
Motor made in Mexico
@@GarageTimeAutoResto well not too much difference in quality there lol
First thing that should have been done was install a properly rated branch circuit breaker. You can’t let the motor draw 50 amps before tripping. And then that baldor motor needs to have a motor starter with adjustable thermal relay installed and use that crappy pressure switch to turn to starter on a d off. Once you get to 5hp you need a contactor and thermal .
The bigger issue for me is the terrible warranty service! Unacceptable!
I bought the IR 60 gallon compressor with the same motor about 2 years ago and have had no problems at all.
That's good. Quality can be a crap shoot sometimes. Factories have good and bad days.
Cheapo compressor sellers use garbage motors from overseas but you can install an American-made quality motor easily. I've done it on several compressors for self and friends. The GE motor on my old 5HP Sanborn from the 1980s runs great but the mystery shit it came with died after about eight years hobby use.
Saylor-Beall are a very old industrial compressor maker (who really needs to advertise better, I mentioned that to them) who make (not merely "assemble" their compressors in the USA. I learned about them by buying two 5 HP units used at auction for next to nothing because the other bidders didn't know it's easy to replace three phase motors or run them off an RPC or VFD like I do my lathe.
They're rugged and durable machines, and of course new single phase SBs are available. They are the answer to my air quest.
After owning two I'd absolutely buy a new one if I needed to but now I want more used Saylor-Bealls. In order to get 10HP the seller ran two 5HP units for blasting or just one for general shop work which is common. Compressors are neat because you can plumb them together with large ID hose and Chicago fittings to use them together or separately feeding one header tank (with or without its own compressor).
Glad I found this video, was going to tractor supply today to buy this, will stick with a quincy.
My first motor made it just over the yr.... on the 3rd now.
Former Ingersoll Customer
I have a similar one that has been good, But a tip for most people, I wanted less moisture in the tank. I went single stage 80 gallon. A single uses both cylinders to put air in tank, a two stage has one piston half the size of the other one, the large piston pumps first to the smaller one and it basically compresses the air twice creating more water problems. Two stage is only better for sand blasting. Air guns, air tools, airing tires your better off single stage. IR makes an excellent quite small unit like that.
Hmm, I've actually noticed less air in my tools since I got this compressor. It replaced a single stage. One thing I like about this IR pump is there is an intercooler between the first and second piston which cools the air some before it goes in the tank. Plus because this goes to 175 psi there is a lot more time for the air to cool before the compressor needs to start up again. In fact, this thing only runs once per day even if I'm painting a fender or something so the air in the tank is room temp (easiest to separate water from air).
according to a youtube video i saw elsewhere about these, these compressors' motor issues result from over-amperage. constantly running the motor above its rated amperage causes them to fail. the solution in his case was to reduce the max PSI using a controller something like you'd find on a well pump pressure controller switch - very straight forward to retrofit and install. while it's quite stupid that you'd have to retrofit such an expensive machine just to prevent it from breaking itself, once the modification is done, they'll last forever.
bad engineering or bad decision making on the management team's part at ingersoll - engineers probably knew this would happen, recommended against it and were overruled by greedy managers....but i'm just speculating.
I agree that lowering the max pressure is easier on the motor. Both of my motors failed on the startup windings not the main windings.
I only switch the compressor on once a week or so when the air is low, like 40 psi.
My new eBay motor is still running strong at the stock pressure settings. Go figure.
I was gonna buy one thanks for the video,customer service is dead .
Do some research and think about the extended warranty if you plan to use a lot?
Same thing happened to me motor burned out 1 month later so I replaced with a dayton motor 6 years so far no problem I use it constant other than that air pump is strong
I was shopping for a new 80 gal IR and 2 of the 5 places I went to told me they have been having ALOT of returns for everything from motor failure to pressure switches. "Assembled" in USA is the word-smith version of they're still using chicom garbage parts. 10-20yrs ago it was different, but IR made their name now have gone cheap. I wont go near them.
It's a big ordeal to return these due to the size and weight. It's too bad the quality isn't the same as decades ago.
Thank you
installed one of these in a metal shop in 2015, burned up the motor in a week. as everyone else says, replace it with a baldor. the motors on these are VERY touchy. i replaced the motor on ours with one from our previous compressor that shattered the cast compressor head and its been champing it ever since! i spoke with the ingersol rand rep when our motor burned out and they explicitly told me that the motor needs a MINIMUM of 230v and ideally 240v, they tend to overheat and dead short otherwise.
I have the same unit brand new and have not installed yet. Did a lot of reading and I get the drift that IR puts the belt on too tight and it causes motor failures. I checked mine and its guitar string tight. Going to adjust it a bit before I start it up for the 1st time.
Good call. Mine slips a bit on startup. No trouble since this video was made
I bought a used IR EL17 and that previous owner had a motor die on it. He had it replaced with an Australian made one though which works well. It's a real shame about manufacturing in the west.
Did you ever put a part no. On that new motor you put on?? I’m having the same problem.
mind doing the same exact thing thanks for all the info looks like it's time to buy a new air compressor mine's not even two years old this is the second motor
Ugh, sorry for your luck. Mine is still running with the eBay motor and magnetic starter.
Most compressor manufactures want to make their specs seem better than the next guy. One way to do this is to run the motor on the service factor. If the motor is 100HP, SF is 1.15 , they will design the compressor to run at 115HP when fully loaded. This WILL cause a shortened motor life.
They aren't good at that either because it failed twice within the one year warranty period.
Dang. Good troubleshooting. IR backed you into a corner. The replacement looks like it is meant for the application. Thermal reset, etc. It’s such a bother when that “will it keep working” voice gets whispering in your ear, especially when “not working” has been accompanied by flame. At least it gets quieter as time goes by!
I'm always nervous about this thing. The tank is so big I rarely even need to turn it on. I leave it switched off because I can't trust it.
Motors don’t just throw flames. The ins tech approved the set up with a 50 amp breaker in it. So the 12 amp motor was alllowed to pull 200 % plus full load amps? There should have been a motor starter and thermal relay installed. If not that breaker should have been at most a 20 amp and it should be a dedicated circuit.
When i see something like this i check and make sure that the purge valve on the heads are bleeding off when the motor cycle off. I have seen them hang and that will burn up a field coil over time. It could also be a bad motor too. I did not hear it bleed when you switched it off. Just a thought.
Good point. I did check the load on the pump with the belt off and it spins very easily.
The swich contacts look ok, but who knows.
True, if the unloader valve doesn’t actuate it would make for a hard start up. But I’m pretty sure this guy had an incompetent technician install the compressor.
Sounded like Motor has back capacitor also check valve for compressor needs to be checked and the bleed valve at the pressure regulator and for household use your compressor should be set no higher than or even commercial use at least 140 psi 125 is recommended for non-commercial use
@3:25 you should always give it the Sniff test when you first take the end shield off.
Also, the darker coloured winding would be the Start Winding and the dark colour indicates to me that its cooked.
Another comment earlier is referring to cable sizes causing volt drop, and that's a valid point. If you have reduced / low volts at the device then the motor will struggle to produce enough torque at start-up and will not speed up enough to throw the centrifugal switch and switch the start winding out.
There was fire coming out of it, so yeah it smelled burnt.
The cable is 8AWG which is way bigger than the wiring from the switch to the motor that it came with.
Given, that the caps and switch contacts checked out, I tend to agree that this motor was cooked. Well both IR motors were cooked.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto Ok, for reference I'm an Electrician, and during my apprenticeship in the late 1970s I was doing motor rewinding in a specialist workshop. As for volt drop, the only conclusive test is to measure the volts at the motor terminals ( or as close as possible ) during startup. Need to see if the volts are pulled too low. That might be caused by any number of common things, bad connections / high resistance joints, under-size cables, etc further upstream in the system and potentially back to the supply transformer on the street. So if your replacement compressor is slow getting away then that would be the next step.
But that was over a year ago so I guess its all fine now.
Thanks for your input and I do appreciate what you are saying. I did a follow up video where I added a magnetic motor starter because there was concern that the pressure switch induces too much voltage drop. The replacement motor is still running great. I didn't really notice a stronger start with the contacter to be honest. I did measure the voltage at the motor while it was running on that video. I can't remember what the number was ,but it was within an allowable percentage when I looked it up.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto Specifically, during startup is the time to measure the volts, as motors will draw roughly 7 x the rated full load current during startup.
I agree I bought mine 1.5 years ago...the condenser fell apart, that was never put on properly in the first place ...IR wanted $400. to replace the condenser...their customer service suck
I have same problem, motor shot.compressor is less than 2years old. Used very little in my farm shop. It was a dream to one day own a large compressor and now realizing I bought the wrong one. I thought it would last me the rest of my life(mid 50’s). I’m so disappointed.
Sorry to hear that
It has been a while, hopefully it's still working. But the start up under load sounded labored. Measure the voltage at the motor while it starts under load. If the voltage is sagging significantly then that could be contributing to the motor failures. Also put your clamp current meter on and measure the current at start up and under load and make sure that both are within spec for the motor. Did the repair guy do this when he was there?
It's still running fine. The belt is a tad loose and sometime squeaks at startup. I'll run some of those tests when I get some time. Others have suggested a mag motor starter which is also a good idea. This takes some load off the cheap pressure switch.
I.
Please elaborate 😀
Which eBay store did you use. Also I have a TS4n5 pump but I need a new crankcase vent and an air filter but need part numbers.
Link is in the video description. If that's doesn't work let me know
That 5hp motor is tiny, my 5hp is twice that size and trouble free.
I’m in the market for a new compressor. I’ve been doing a lot of looking around for a 60-80 gallon 5hp with at least 15 cfm unit. From what I can tell is that if you want an Ingersoll-Rand do not buy a TSC model. I/R makes those specifically for TSC. They probably use cheaper parts at TSC request to keep the cost down to appeal to the average consumer and not just heavy use shops. I do know I/R makes good compressors but not the ones they make for TSC.
I agree with this.
Unfortunately this is my first and last experience with IR.
Their customer service was also bad.
Also I'm not a heavy duty shop.
This is an aycompressor and with proper maintenance it will run for years. You want to get this unit with a ma magnetic contactor and adjustable thermal relay. It will just use the pressure switch to eneytgr contactor. Those pressure switches are unreliable power contactors. Adjust your thermal to protect that motor as close to full load a
Is as possible without nuisance tripping . Northern took sells this model you just have to look
i agree 100%!!!
@@jeremyhall1984 I ended up buying a Quincy QT-54 and have no regrets. It’s a 60 gallon instead of an 80, but when I looked at the two in stores and compared them the Quincy is obviously built better and the fact it has a trusted Baldor motor convinced me to spend the little extra on it. I read too many reviews of the motor on the I/R burning up and sometimes actually catching on fire. I can’t risk my entire garage and contents over a couple hundred bucks. For a backyard mechanic, DIY’er and automotive painter the 60 gallon at the CFM of the Quincy is enough to forget about the 20 gallons the I/R has over the Quincy. Again my decision was based on reliability and not burning down my garage.
I have had the same unit for 4 yrs and use it in my farm shop. Mine has worked well with literally no issues. Your motor is definitely dying prematurely, very strange.
//Ramble mode on//
To corroborate this video, Before I bought an air compressor of this size I looked at Ingersol Rand 80 gallon at Northern tool (they also sell Quincy).
During the research online I made before buying, I found a lot of bad reports they were saying mostly "this is not like the Ingersol Rand of yesterday" and motor issues. Of course your mileage may vary.
Luckily for me when visiting Northern Tool again about 3 weeks later, some customer had knocked over a Quincy 60 gallon unit that uses a Baldor motor, it fell off the small pallet it was on and knocked 3 cooling fins off the compressor head, I spoke to the manager while he was cleaning up the mess, and asked what he would sell it for and he said $600
He used their forklift to put it in my truck and I took it home and bolted it down to a concrete pad under an awning behind my garage wall
I have used it for over 2 years, always plugged in.
Its a 2 stage unit and pumps up to 160 psi
I follow the maintenance schedule from Quincy and have had zero problems with it.
The Quincy 60 gallon unit was far more expensive than the IR, but ended cheaper through dint of fate.
They are both for sale there now the IR 80 gallon is $949 and the Quincy 60 gallon is $1399 presently
I lucked out
What I find nowadays is that the only reason for an air compressor is spraying paint and blowing up floaty things for the pool.
Milwaukee impacts and cordless tools have obviated air tools IMHO
//Ramble mode off//
Thanks for sharing. I almost bought the Quincy and should have.
I just had the chance to buy a baldor motor too, but man they are expensive.
I really don't use this compressor very much, so hopefully this $250 motor will last 5 years. That's my goal anyway. That's a lot of bike tires and pool toys.
I guess you don't plasma cut?
Who me? I do plasma cut
@@GarageTimeAutoResto No, "Ed Cetera" commented that you only need a compressor for spraying and pool toys. I really wish that were true for me but I run a cnc plasma table and no cordless Milwaukee tool will help me there. Although I own lots of cordless Milwaukee tools and agree with him on that! 👍
Gotcha, you need a lot of air for a CNC plasma👍
My son bought an 80 gallon ingersol compressor from tractor supply about 2 years ago to use in his home garage for his automotive projects, he uses it for his air die grinders , cutting wheels , nothing big . Yesterday the motor burned out. Ingersol makes junk do not buy their compressors
I guess they haven't fixed their motors yet, bummer.
ouch, thanks for the warning. I have had the same compressor for almost 4 years, so far so good. Mine is in a shed, I will definitely keep an eye out on the motor.
Mine started slower every week until one day it wouldn't. I'd you made it four years already, you got one of the good motors most likely.
Same here. I have the very same compressor. New motor installed under warranty. This time the reed valves blew. The part is 400 bucks USD. It’s half the cost of a new one. What is it about air compressors failing? I used mine for lightweight home garage duties. Tires, bike lift, etc. So disappointed.
What a shame. I don't use mine heavily either.
Going through the same Problems not at all happy with this product as well!!!
Sorry man, too bad you found this video after you bought. You aren't alone.
I watched your more recent video that Ingersoll Rand finally responded to you. We should all know that they did because you are on UA-cam and they know the damage this can cause so they did. Good luck for most other customers that don't publish their bad experiences on social media. This line of compressor are clearly the typical consumer grade craps out there.
Good point. And I specifically asked them how they would handle other customers with the same quality issues and they made no promises. Just case by case. This video has a lot of views which helped my case I'm sure.
I'm using this compressor as a hobbyist and it still failed quickly.
Can you send me the link we’re can I buy the motor please thanks for the video
I will also say that looking at other ss, high cfm, 230vac air compressors, the quality/satisfaction ratings are all over the place. None are any better than the your compressor in your category of the 5hp 5SS IR I am buying. ANd all in the ss that I am looking at are within a couple hundred dollars. I will put the motor starter on it. I will now buy the extended warranty. If it comes to it I will buy a Baldor or Marathon motor. $500-600. Perhaps on the 5SS that I am purchasing the motor is how they can get the price point down to $950. we shall see. Hope that new motor works out for you. I am replacing a Campbell Hausfeld that i have had 30years. Supposedly 5hp but really 3.5. Pump issue. I am replacing instead of repairing because I need more cfm. The IR 5SS is 18 cfm. Thanks for sharing your experience!
Good luck with your new compressor purchase. I agree it's a gamble. I am happy with the two stage pump. I find that it doesn't pump nearly as much water into the tank as my previous single stage compressor did. The ingersoll rand pump cools the air some before it goes into the second stage. Plus 80 gals at 170 psi is a lot of air, so the pump doesn't need to turn on very often for the type of painting and work that I do. I recommend two stage for these reasons.
Unloader works, only other thing would be dirty contacts on the pressure switch?. Maybe just bad motors? A magnetic starter would help.
Two IR motors failed in the start windings. The eBay motor is still going strong. Here's where I added the mag starter
ua-cam.com/video/QuZiPMSl5U0/v-deo.html
What motor did you buy and where did you buy it from and how much did it cost
If you look in the description of this video you will see the exact motor I bought from eBay. Still running after 1.4 years.
i have the same compressor for a little over a year and the rod sized to the crank. i took it apart and unseized it and sanded the melted metal from the crank put it back together. it's still working but i can't imagine it will for long. new pump is $2,500!!!
Get a blador moter..its tops
Do you have any opinion on "DAYTON" motors ? ?
How close to the wall? Restricted airflow?
I've got the same compressor and I've already replaced the motor 2 times also bought the same one I think you did from eBay it's a 6 horse power.
My eBay motor is still running great.
i messed my second one up that i had to buy, no warranty like you got and the first one was only like 3 months out of warranty. But anyways be careful and replace the pressure switch if it starts acting up because that pressure switch that they use also has a lot of problems, mine the contacts kept sticking and the motor wouldnt shut off so i had the cover off of it and use to go over to it and jab it with a screw driver so it would release so i didnt blow the thing up, lol So one day i went over and gave it the jab and only one contact disingaged this time and sparks flew out of the back of the motor.. Yes i toasted it!!! and it was my own fault! but just to let you know i got a pressure switch from ebay, a little different cause the switch and power inlet were on opposite sides, but wasnt a big deal. Great pressure switch and havent had a problem with it like 8 years now and i think its like for a 22 Amp Motor witch i think i remember the now motor being, "Sunny Model SP204". Funny part is under the cover it says in big letters "NOT MADE IN CHINA"!!! and then in smaller letters it says "Made in Taiwan. Its been like 8 years but i figure id give you the name and part # because i think IR wanted like $75 for there junk and i got this one for like $25, Keep in mind that was 8 years ago though! @@GarageTimeAutoResto
I don’t think the belt tightness was your problem. The old motor had ball bearings, so there wouldn’t be a lot of bearing friction with a tight belt, like bushings would give.
Also, you have an unloaded that relieves pressure (that’s the hissing you hear when the motor is turned off) in the compressor to motor line so tank pressure won’t fight against the compressor starting.
Good luck with your new motor.
I had the motor catch on fire on mine, too. Replaced with a Century. Also had the pressure start/stop switch burn the contacts and weld itself stuck in the run position, happened twice. And a one way valve on top of the tank failed. I would not have this compressor near anything combustible. Needless to say, I'll never buy another I-R.
Ugh
@@GarageTimeAutoResto Right. We buy these I-R's thinking we'll have a good trouble-free compressor for many years, then find out we might as well have bought the cheapest piece of garbage out there.
I wish the thing had an hour meter on it - I'm sure we'd be even more angry knowing how little run time is actually on these when they start having problems.
Exactly, mine is switched off 99% of the time and I use the air in the tank rarely.
I just want to work on my cars and not my air compressor.
Next thing on my list to do is add a magnetic motor starter.
It's going to be a hotrod air compressor I guess☹️
One guy I saw had one this model and his was running high amps (in excess of the 21-22 it says it pulls) at 175psi. It was suggested that perhaps his pressure switch may have died as a result, so he got another switch (Square D, NOT the Ingersoll oem replacement). He had a regulator on his outflow that was rated for 155psi so he lowered the pressure on the compressor to 150 and that dropped the amperage pull down around the @21 that it was rated for. I’m not really sure how excess amps affect the pressure switch, but thought it might be relevant.
Interesting, but my motor problem is that it wouldn't start even if the tank was a low pressure. I think what you did should increase the motor life though too.
There are two sets of windings in the motor. The start windings is what failed on both the IR motors.
I was just looking at the SS5L5. Is that what you have? 18.1CFM@90psi setup? I am disappointed to see these problems and further lack of support by the company. Earlier today, I called a placed that sells these. Guy didn't even bother to call back.
Any updates?
Mine is the two stage version and was purchased from Tractor Supply Company.
I finally got a call last week from Ingersoll Rand. They saw this video and we are talking about a motor credit for future repairs? Nothing in writing yet
This is a great compressor and will last years when maintained. Just get the model with the motor starter and thermal relay instead of just a pressure switch.
These compressors are great that’s for sure. Have you checked you unloader air valve? It’s in the electrical switch. I had one stick on me and it burned up a motor once I got the valve unstuck haven’t had any issues with it.
Also, check you Amps while running. That is the best way to also check belt tension. Make sure your amps match the name plate of the motor.
Side note. Stopping and starting the motor is not the best. Most motors with a 125 service factor only have a max 4-6 start per hour...... with a good 10min cool down period.
Hope this helps.
What is your on and off pressure? If it starts and stops frequently you will burn up your start capacitor
I think it's around 90 and 170. Many times I have it switched off so it doesn't start randomly