A local GM Dealer wanted $702 to recharge my 1234FY system! I told them it was a rip off and took my 2017 GMC Acadia and left. I purchased the recommended amount of refrigerant, charge hose and guage at a local auto parts store and did it myself for $151 and saved $551. Do it yourself and don't get ripped off!!!
@@angus4830 I went to Advance Auto Parts and bought the refrigerant gauge and charging hose along with three cans of 1234FY refrigerant! Before you do this make absolutely sure your vehicle uses 1234FY and not 134A. Also attach the charging hose to the low pressure side of your system. This is the large tube port, not the small tube port.
@@williamvaughan1218 this was the cost in the summer of 2021. The price has dropped significantly as more vehicles now use the 1234FY now. My point is the amount the auto dealership wanted to charge at $702.00! If you had a choice between $702 and $151, what would you have chosen at that point in time?
I’m confused about the “do not run compressor with high side valves open” there’s no other videos on YT saying that when checking pressures and charging system. ???
Once the hoses are under vacuum, shouldn't you fill the lines with refrigerant (with the car's service valves closed) before you zero the scale? if not, you are including the refrigerant weight in the lines in your charge weight and that amount never made it into the car...especially important with 1234yf that is a mroe critical charge weight.
Live in Arizona Get a pinhole in your A/C system Get bent over at the *dealer for $700 so you dont have to lose 10 lbs in water weight driving to and from work everyday. Gotta love living in the matrix.
The EPA is requiring all new vehicles to transition to R1234YF from R134A. The old R12 will not work in the new system. Also R12 is no longer available.
1 year old post I know, BUT! The latest scam is adding a tax on R134A to make it as expensive as (if not more than) R1234YF, not come in yet but soon will. As said by many "It's all about the money".
jezus ..so your saying if i only get hot air not to do this recharge myself...what TF car companies, do you make this stuff so hard and complicated as a GIFT to auto shops so they can charge us tons of money to repair? seems likely
@Ghfjh Loudz. Yep it’s theft by pen. The EPA wrote this change into law and it literally does next to nothing for the environment vs R134A. After the 1234 crap they are already planning to change the systems again to carbon dioxide. Thats what they informed me of during my HAVAC certification. Its been on the books for about 15 years at least.
Getting an accurate charge using small cans doesn’t happen very often and getting that can to balance with a heavy hose on a scale adds to the problem that’s why only big 30 pound cans should be allowed. 2: if you used a four port refrigerant manifold you would not have to purge any refrigerant to the atmosphere because that fourth port would be hooked up to your vacuum pump vacuuming down cleaning out and drying your hoses preparing them to add refrigerant. 3: pulling a vacuum and watching gauges is extremely inaccurate and a very old-fashioned barbaric way and often leaving moisture inside the system without being able to actually measure it with the use of a micron gauge. On top of that vacuum is a very poor indicator of a leak because often slight imperfection in rubber hoses and O-rings can easily seal with only a difference of 14.7 psi between atmosphere and a complete vacuum but under pressure leak. And this is also another reason to use a micrometer you could read very small imperfection in leaks that watching a needle the human Eye will never see within 15 minutes. 4: and if you did have sloppy technicians who often have leaks when they re-assemble components part of your vacuum procedure would be using dry nitrogen to do a triple purge and evacuate. At the same time while you were performing the procedure you easily pump it up to 150 psi with dry nitrogen then placed your electronic digital manifold gauge set in pressure decay test mode that will read pressure losses of down to a resolution of 1/10 of a PSI. Now you’re ready to perform your Final vacuum. 5: now comes the real beauty and usefulness of knowing how to use a micron gauge when performing your vacuum you can actually read the removal of moisture that when a car has been in a collision in sitting for many days or weeks in the body shop with the refrigerant lines open to the atmosphere and the ESTER oil or PAG oil has been completely saturated with moisture that Preforming a simple vacuum for 15 minutes or 30 minutes or even an hour many times cannot remove this level of moisture contamination. And with a built-in micron meter or individual remote micrometer you can actually read and prove and document your decay of vacuum with the release of moisture out of moisture saturated oil and there’s actually an app that can record this and you can prove it and download it and include it with your invoices as proof of proper evacuation. 6: now this is where somebody from old school came in telling you to use charts for pressure and temperature relationship with refrigerant in many cases has no reference or anything to do with the modern day cars that have computer control displacement and pressures by the sensors they are monitoring will completely throw your numbers you’re trying to use off a chart making them completely irrelevant. Where would I try to use pressure temperature charts where he knownfixed condenser fan speed that was not on a fan that was varying up and down turning off and on or cycling between one fan into Fan throwing your numbers off. You have to instruct the technician in what exact procedure in settings the Dash recycle vent needs to be on or off and it’s usually off and where is he taking the temperature of his income in air is usually always wrong because if it’s coming through the firewall vents underneath the windshield with the engine running on a hot day with the fan blowing from the hot radiator air over the exhaust manifolds down the air intake that could be 130° instead of the ambient air this is where a lot of false information on videos and mistakes are made. 7: And infrared thermometer would be one of the last pieces of temperature measurement equipment you would want to use very in accurate makes a big difference whether the car in the dash is in the direct sunlight where the black vents are being hit with the radiant radiation heat from the sun altering the surface temperature of the vents them self and then there’s the dwelltime how long has it been resting with cool air before it actually cooled off all the plastic and mass of material inside the vehicle. On top of that you never shine indirect the optics of an infrared thermometer into the cold air stream because of the rapid change in cooling affect across the optics giving a distortion giving a technician a very false reading on his display that will often give you a much lower temperature than actually is coming out of the Dash this was explained in showing to me by my father when I was 12 and I am 54 now and this information was widely known what happened to our education system in the automotive field. Excellent temperature probes with a long reach that can actually go down into the vents that are manufactured by Fieldpiece or Testo or high-quality accurate equipment that comes with apps and you can record and data log in at the same time we will also give you your empathy your dewpoint and your humidity all at the same time that you were can record and attach to your invoices for documentation and proof. 8: it was a good informative video for DYI backyard mechanics but not for professional automotive technicians I believe this video should be remade and re-shot with a higher degree of proficiency and education.
You obviously googled this shit bro, techs have been doing it this way for years and it doesn't drastically affect any critical systems. If Honeywell, one of the best companies, made this video it should be accurate
Always a know it all..... or are you trying to convince people the high charge for repair is a normal thing.....everything you said is not done by 99.9 percent of techs. repeat customers are what we are looking for.....
@@brendanch Big companies do it as short and sweet as possible because it’s about having low skilled uneducated technicians to do it just good enough to make the money and get it out the door and have the lowest chance of it breaking within warranty that’s it. Didn’t need to Google anything that was the way my father was taught by an old guy and we went to HVAC classes back in the 80s I had HVAC classes for Automotive and then the 2000s I took two years of commercial refrigeration and residential HVAC and then on top of that I took a third major building automation for another two years. I don’t need to Google anything it’s all in my head I thought Google everything she knows.
@@rayb2078 you are 100% right not quite 99.9% of uneducated shortcut taking beer can cold and wave your hand in front of the air duct to determine airflow type of Techs. (if you can call them that) So I agree with you 110%. And for that other low percentage we care not to associate with the other 99% thank you very much. 1:Brazing without nitrogen 2: Using blue Lake lock in all flare fittings so it gets on the inside. 3: brazing expansion valves and overheating them and then badmouth expansion valves why they fail all the time in their garbage need to be replaced with pistons. 4: trying to fill a system by pressures or by the hand beer can: overfilling it by four or 5 pounds so when a really hot day comes around the refrigerant has nowhere to expand 5: Setting up a universal condensing fan motor so the fan blade is either too far up or too far down reducing the airflow over the coil making the customer pay a high electrical bill in a low efficiency working system. Yep you’re right I’m not one of that 99% thank you very much have a nice day
A, nobody is willing to pay for that level of service. B, very few techs are skilled enough and care enough to do it. C not many techs have pro hvac equip
A local GM Dealer wanted $702 to recharge my 1234FY system! I told them it was a rip off and took my 2017 GMC Acadia and left. I purchased the recommended amount of refrigerant, charge hose and guage at a local auto parts store and did it myself for $151 and saved $551. Do it yourself and don't get ripped off!!!
What exactly did you buy? I am thinking about doing my own since I had to take the lines off to replace my radiator.
@@angus4830 I went to Advance Auto Parts and bought the refrigerant gauge and charging hose along with three cans of 1234FY refrigerant! Before you do this make absolutely sure your vehicle uses 1234FY and not 134A. Also attach the charging hose to the low pressure side of your system. This is the large tube port, not the small tube port.
@@wythetrumpet6419 I was frantically searching for someone to tell me high or low!!! Thank you ahaha
$151.00 just to top off your system?I wouldn't brag about that.
@@williamvaughan1218 this was the cost in the summer of 2021. The price has dropped significantly as more vehicles now use the 1234FY now. My point is the amount the auto dealership wanted to charge at $702.00! If you had a choice between $702 and $151, what would you have chosen at that point in time?
Great idea. Put left hand threads on the can so the adapter comes loose and starts leaking when you close the valve
Inr, who was that genius, took me 10 minutes trying to thread the dang thing
Maybe oughta use two hands
I’m confused about the “do not run compressor with high side valves open” there’s no other videos on YT saying that when checking pressures and charging system. ???
Once the hoses are under vacuum, shouldn't you fill the lines with refrigerant (with the car's service valves closed) before you zero the scale? if not, you are including the refrigerant weight in the lines in your charge weight and that amount never made it into the car...especially important with 1234yf that is a mroe critical charge weight.
I didn’t see that he added oil to the ac system
6:57 - where do I find proper charts?
What were you checking with the electronic leak detector, the system was under vacuum.
Cuantas latas de yf1234 lleva. Un auto motor 1.6 4 cilindros versa 2023
Wonder what Honeywell's stock is doing.
so the condenser just disappeared after that collision?
how do you add oil?
Left hand threads another gimmick for DIY and garage owners forced to buy more equipment.
Greed and money the name of the game...
Live in Arizona
Get a pinhole in your A/C system
Get bent over at the *dealer for $700 so you dont have to lose 10 lbs in water weight driving to and from work everyday.
Gotta love living in the matrix.
best thing is not buy are car with 1234yf,,,
an if i had to pay the high price for this junk i would put r12 in it ,,,
The EPA is requiring all new vehicles to transition to R1234YF from R134A. The old R12 will not work in the new system. Also R12 is no longer available.
1 year old post I know, BUT! The latest scam is adding a tax on R134A to make it as expensive as (if not more than) R1234YF, not come in yet but soon will. As said by many "It's all about the money".
jezus ..so your saying if i only get hot air not to do this recharge myself...what TF car companies, do you make this stuff so hard and complicated as a GIFT to auto shops so they can charge us tons of money to repair? seems likely
Yes that’s how we pay our rent
@Ghfjh Loudz. Yep it’s theft by pen. The EPA wrote this change into law and it literally does next to nothing for the environment vs R134A. After the 1234 crap they are already planning to change the systems again to carbon dioxide. Thats what they informed me of during my HAVAC certification. Its been on the books for about 15 years at least.
This video is full of mistakes, from turning the wrong way to turning the wrong knob for what is being said. Deliberate?
Getting an accurate charge using small cans doesn’t happen very often and getting that can to balance with a heavy hose on a scale adds to the problem that’s why only big 30 pound cans should be allowed.
2: if you used a four port refrigerant manifold you would not have to purge any refrigerant to the atmosphere because that fourth port would be hooked up to your vacuum pump vacuuming down cleaning out and drying your hoses preparing them to add refrigerant.
3: pulling a vacuum and watching gauges is extremely inaccurate and a very old-fashioned barbaric way and often leaving moisture inside the system without being able to actually measure it with the use of a micron gauge. On top of that vacuum is a very poor indicator of a leak because often slight imperfection in rubber hoses and O-rings can easily seal with only a difference of 14.7 psi between atmosphere and a complete vacuum but under pressure leak. And this is also another reason to use a micrometer you could read very small imperfection in leaks that watching a needle the human Eye will never see within 15 minutes.
4: and if you did have sloppy technicians who often have leaks when they re-assemble components part of your vacuum procedure would be using dry nitrogen to do a triple purge and evacuate. At the same time while you were performing the procedure you easily pump it up to 150 psi with dry nitrogen then placed your electronic digital manifold gauge set in pressure decay test mode that will read pressure losses of down to a resolution of 1/10 of a PSI.
Now you’re ready to perform your Final vacuum.
5: now comes the real beauty and usefulness of knowing how to use a micron gauge when performing your vacuum you can actually read the removal of moisture that when a car has been in a collision in sitting for many days or weeks in the body shop with the refrigerant lines open to the atmosphere and the ESTER oil or PAG oil has been completely saturated with moisture that Preforming a simple vacuum for 15 minutes or 30 minutes or even an hour many times cannot remove this level of moisture contamination. And with a built-in micron meter or individual remote micrometer you can actually read and prove and document your decay of vacuum with the release of moisture out of moisture saturated oil and there’s actually an app that can record this and you can prove it and download it and include it with your invoices as proof of proper evacuation.
6: now this is where somebody from old school came in telling you to use charts for pressure and temperature relationship with refrigerant in many cases has no reference or anything to do with the modern day cars that have computer control displacement and pressures by the sensors they are monitoring will completely throw your numbers you’re trying to use off a chart making them completely irrelevant.
Where would I try to use pressure temperature charts where he knownfixed condenser fan speed that was not on a fan that was varying up and down turning off and on or cycling between one fan into Fan throwing your numbers off. You have to instruct the technician in what exact procedure in settings the Dash recycle vent needs to be on or off and it’s usually off and where is he taking the temperature of his income in air is usually always wrong because if it’s coming through the firewall vents underneath the windshield with the engine running on a hot day with the fan blowing from the hot radiator air over the exhaust manifolds down the air intake that could be 130° instead of the ambient air this is where a lot of false information on videos and mistakes are made.
7: And infrared thermometer would be one of the last pieces of temperature measurement equipment you would want to use very in accurate makes a big difference whether the car in the dash is in the direct sunlight where the black vents are being hit with the radiant radiation heat from the sun altering the surface temperature of the vents them self and then there’s the dwelltime how long has it been resting with cool air before it actually cooled off all the plastic and mass of material inside the vehicle. On top of that you never shine indirect the optics of an infrared thermometer into the cold air stream because of the rapid change in cooling affect across the optics giving a distortion giving a technician a very false reading on his display that will often give you a much lower temperature than actually is coming out of the Dash this was explained in showing to me by my father when I was 12 and I am 54 now and this information was widely known what happened to our education system in the automotive field.
Excellent temperature probes with a long reach that can actually go down into the vents that are manufactured by Fieldpiece or Testo or high-quality accurate equipment that comes with apps and you can record and data log in at the same time we will also give you your empathy your dewpoint and your humidity all at the same time that you were can record and attach to your invoices for documentation and proof.
8: it was a good informative video for DYI backyard mechanics but not for professional automotive technicians I believe this video should be remade and re-shot with a higher degree of proficiency and education.
You obviously googled this shit bro, techs have been doing it this way for years and it doesn't drastically affect any critical systems. If Honeywell, one of the best companies, made this video it should be accurate
Always a know it all..... or are you trying to convince people the high charge for repair is a normal thing.....everything you said is not done by 99.9 percent of techs. repeat customers are what we are looking for.....
@@brendanch Big companies do it as short and sweet as possible because it’s about having low skilled uneducated technicians to do it just good enough to make the money and get it out the door and have the lowest chance of it breaking within warranty that’s it.
Didn’t need to Google anything that was the way my father was taught by an old guy and we went to HVAC classes back in the 80s I had HVAC classes for Automotive and then the 2000s I took two years of commercial refrigeration and residential HVAC and then on top of that I took a third major building automation for another two years.
I don’t need to Google anything it’s all in my head I thought Google everything she knows.
@@rayb2078 you are 100% right not quite 99.9% of uneducated shortcut taking beer can cold and wave your hand in front of the air duct to determine airflow type of Techs. (if you can call them that)
So I agree with you 110%. And for that other low percentage we care not to associate with the other 99% thank you very much.
1:Brazing without nitrogen
2: Using blue Lake lock in all flare fittings so it gets on the inside.
3: brazing expansion valves and overheating them and then badmouth expansion valves why they fail all the time in their garbage need to be replaced with pistons.
4: trying to fill a system by pressures or by the hand beer can: overfilling it by four or 5 pounds so when a really hot day comes around the refrigerant has nowhere to expand
5: Setting up a universal condensing fan motor so the fan blade is either too far up or too far down reducing the airflow over the coil making the customer pay a high electrical bill in a low efficiency working system.
Yep you’re right I’m not one of that 99% thank you very much have a nice day
A, nobody is willing to pay for that level of service. B, very few techs are skilled enough and care enough to do it. C not many techs have pro hvac equip