I have a four cylinder Yanmar and space around the filter is quite tight. It took me a long time to come up with this but I finally got tired of mopping up the bilge of oil. I place a 1kg yoghurt container under the filter before I remove the filter. The flexible container can be squeezed into the space quite easily and then squeezed again to remove from the area. As to draining the oil I took the drain plug out and drilled through it and silver soldered a threaded fitting to attach a hose to that I led out to an electric Reverso pump to remove and replace the oil. For your manual pump you could just leave the hose attached to the side of the engine with a removable cap for when you need to use it.
Like you I read a lot around oils and concluded CD was the way to go with my 2007 Yanmar. You can still buy it in French and Spanish automotive dealers where it's sold for mini tractors which are popular there.
@Mal L I would simply disconnect the Stop solenoid wire, crank until oil pumps through then reconnect wire. It was also explained in previous video that a previous owner had fitted a Turbo, so the Oil is under duress and running hotter than design.
Steve, I know this is a bit off topic, but I am having a hard time finding a definitive answer to this; say you leave the boat for winter in the Med and go home for 6 months. What do you do with the engine raw water circuit; do you flush it and fill it with fresh water, or just shut the seacock and leave it be...?
If you have an easy way of getting fresh water in circuit then I would certainly do it if leaving it for that long. We tend to use the boat over winter so don't. To be honest I don't think it's as big a deal as you might imagine. Everything in there is designed to deal with salt water so it's not like other systems that would be dead if you left them in salt water for months!
@@svfairisle Thank you very much. I suspected that might be the case. BTW, what other systems did you have in mind? Love your channel, you r one of the best.
@@Jarek12010 Oh I was just meaning things that arn't supposed to get wet but often do on a boat! So anything electrical, the engine bay ( I had a friend have a hose blow once, he replaced it straight away of course but didn't properly clean up and a few weeks later when he went to check the oil the outside of the engine was completely rusted, alternator, everything!) So leave things rinsed with fresh & dried where you can. Like the chain locker, no sense in that festering all winter! And of course if you have a water-maker, that needs pickling. Also drain the water tanks down low and leave whats left with some chlorine cleaner, pull some of that through the pipes as well, then flush it through when you return and refill. Do the opposite with the fuel tanks i.e. leave them full. Low tanks leave room for condensation that forms a layer of water on the diesel surface and allows diesel bug to grow.
That’s a very good point. No we don’t but we never lay the boat up. I think if we did I would plumb in a way of getting fresh water into the inlet side of the engine and then run the engine for 30 seconds with the input seacock closed
That’s a very good point. No we don’t but we never lay the boat up. I think if we did I would plumb in a way of getting fresh water into the inlet side of the engine and then run the engine for 30 seconds with the input seacock closed
Couple of things I noticed from your procedure, the filter should not be tightened as much as you did, only handscrew it in and the tightening should be like 1/2 turn not use your body weight to tighten. Also the recommended oil in a diesel engine of that year should not be a synthetic type. It was designed for a good mineral oil. Any slight leakage would be accentuated if you use synthetic oil. If you want to use synthetic oil it should only be used in really could climate and always be used , do not change between the two types. Liked the collapsible waste can, that's really convenient. Also like you did always lubricate the seal on the new filter, if you don't and tighten it really hard it will be a nightmare to remove. Good on you for showing all the importance of oil and filter changes,
I agree a good mineral oil is what the engine was designed for & it’s actually what I stick too, but the reason I didn’t want to get into the synthetic/ mineral thing is I know several excellent mechanics that swear by synthetic oil for any engine. I agree don’t mix the two & should have said that in the video. But by mix the two I mean don’t top up with another oil. The notion that an engine that’s been run on mineral cannot be swapped will be laughed at by many eminent mechanics as will the statement that synthetic oil will blow your seals which I’ve heard called an old wives tail on many occasions! You can see why I didn’t want to get into the Mineral / synthetic debate! I should say I agree with you and stick with mineral oil and on the whole think that’s the safest bet, but there are certainly arguments for synthetics and semi synthetics even in older engines and some people swear by them. The point is the whole debate is nowhere near as important as regular changes and I didn’t want to detract from that. I’ve known people who look at the oil on the dipstick & think that doesn’t look too dirty after a year where they haven’t used it much and leave it. People forget that the additives that stop corrosion and acidity brake down in oil & you can’t see that.
Nice & easy. It looked really clean down there and am liking the inverters on the back wall! I can't help myself.......if you mix pure mineral & fully synthetic oils, they may end up "sludging" so better, as you say, to stick with what has been used. Oils also come with there grading, but I was not aware of the 'S & D' so great info thanks!
I remember being told to fill the oil filter with oil before putting it on when I started working on my car at home about 50 years ago. I guess that it is not necessary these days or was I told the wrong way to do it? André
No thats right with filters mounted vertically, helps get the oil to the top end quicker especially if the engine has been drained down for some time. Horizontal filters will just make a mess as you screw them I, so I tend not to. Modern engines are better at getting the oil up quickly as well.
It's actually a German tool (they make great tools) but I've just had a look & you can get it on ebay, link here... www.ebay.co.uk/p/Oil-Filter-Spider-3-Armed-Wrench-for-Cars-BGS-Technic-1030/2255895152?iid=362662729990&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=362662729990&targetid=486898987654&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1006886&poi=&campaignid=7643169300&mkgroupid=78014891021&rlsatarget=aud-629407025025:pla-486898987654&abcId=1139576&merchantid=110819175&gclid=CjwKCAiAi4fwBRBxEiwAEO8_Hlsf4TB1JpLpl2T2DyM2pJ0OU3HCXkW1sNbfiJOvv4qkug26fCYOlhoC_GEQAvD_BwE or just search oil filter spider
Before you unscrew it, pierce a hole in the filter, this breaks the airlock and allows any oil to drain into the sump, instead of spilling out when you unscrew it.
"Not massively expensive..." You have not been to ozzie then mate. Massively expensive not really, but it certainly is not cheap. For 5L you are looking at around $65 AUD to $100 AUD. Or around $10 - 20 for 1L. You can find some 5L for $30 or so here n there, like if it goes on sale, clearance, etc. But not often. And you can get some for only $45, which is what I do.
Might have to stock up before we get there then! For a good oil here I'm paying €35 /4 liters thats about £30 or 56 aussie dollars. It costs more in the UK and of course much less in the states. No matter what though I'm not going to skimp on oil changes in an attempt to save money because in the long run you won't!
I have a four cylinder Yanmar and space around the filter is quite tight. It took me a long time to come up with this but I finally got tired of
mopping up the bilge of oil. I place a 1kg yoghurt container under the filter before I remove the filter. The flexible container can be squeezed
into the space quite easily and then squeezed again to remove from the area. As to draining the oil I took the drain plug out and drilled through
it and silver soldered a threaded fitting to attach a hose to that I led out to an electric Reverso pump to remove and replace the oil. For your manual pump you could just leave the hose attached to the side of the engine with a removable cap for when you need to use it.
Sounds good getting the oil out from the sump drain is definitely best to get most oil out.
Like you I read a lot around oils and concluded CD was the way to go with my 2007 Yanmar. You can still buy it in French and Spanish automotive dealers where it's sold for mini tractors which are popular there.
Do you mind if I ask where you got your pump?
Not at all, but I’m afraid I’m no help to you as it was on the boat when we bought her!
Hi ... you can buy a Yanmar Filter twice as long as yours which you might want to consider for 19 yr old Engine
and the heat of Mediterranean ....
Good tip thanks I’ll look into it I need to restock.
@Mal L I would simply disconnect the Stop solenoid wire, crank until oil pumps through then
reconnect wire. It was also explained in previous video that a previous owner had fitted a Turbo, so the Oil is under duress and running hotter than design.
Steve, I know this is a bit off topic, but I am having a hard time finding a definitive answer to this; say you leave the boat for winter in the Med and go home for 6 months. What do you do with the engine raw water circuit; do you flush it and fill it with fresh water, or just shut the seacock and leave it be...?
If you have an easy way of getting fresh water in circuit then I would certainly do it if leaving it for that long. We tend to use the boat over winter so don't. To be honest I don't think it's as big a deal as you might imagine. Everything in there is designed to deal with salt water so it's not like other systems that would be dead if you left them in salt water for months!
@@svfairisle Thank you very much. I suspected that might be the case. BTW, what other systems did you have in mind? Love your channel, you r one of the best.
@@Jarek12010 Oh I was just meaning things that arn't supposed to get wet but often do on a boat! So anything electrical, the engine bay ( I had a friend have a hose blow once, he replaced it straight away of course but didn't properly clean up and a few weeks later when he went to check the oil the outside of the engine was completely rusted, alternator, everything!) So leave things rinsed with fresh & dried where you can. Like the chain locker, no sense in that festering all winter! And of course if you have a water-maker, that needs pickling. Also drain the water tanks down low and leave whats left with some chlorine cleaner, pull some of that through the pipes as well, then flush it through when you return and refill. Do the opposite with the fuel tanks i.e. leave them full. Low tanks leave room for condensation that forms a layer of water on the diesel surface and allows diesel bug to grow.
@@svfairisle Thank you again, all good advice. I am always looking forward to your technical videos.
If you are laying the boat up for a few months do you flush the engine out with fresh water ? If so how do you do this ?
That’s a very good point. No we don’t but we never lay the boat up. I think if we did I would plumb in a way of getting fresh water into the inlet side of the engine and then run the engine for 30 seconds with the input seacock closed
That’s a very good point. No we don’t but we never lay the boat up. I think if we did I would plumb in a way of getting fresh water into the inlet side of the engine and then run the engine for 30 seconds with the input seacock closed
Couple of things I noticed from your procedure, the filter should not be tightened as much as you did, only handscrew it in and the tightening should be like 1/2 turn not use your body weight to tighten. Also the recommended oil in a diesel engine of that year should not be a synthetic type. It was designed for a good mineral oil. Any slight leakage would be accentuated if you use synthetic oil. If you want to use synthetic oil it should only be used in really could climate and always be used , do not change between the two types.
Liked the collapsible waste can, that's really convenient.
Also like you did always lubricate the seal on the new filter, if you don't and tighten it really hard it will be a nightmare to remove.
Good on you for showing all the importance of oil and filter changes,
I agree a good mineral oil is what the engine was designed for & it’s actually what I stick too, but the reason I didn’t want to get into the synthetic/ mineral thing is I know several excellent mechanics that swear by synthetic oil for any engine. I agree don’t mix the two & should have said that in the video. But by mix the two I mean don’t top up with another oil. The notion that an engine that’s been run on mineral cannot be swapped will be laughed at by many eminent mechanics as will the statement that synthetic oil will blow your seals which I’ve heard called an old wives tail on many occasions! You can see why I didn’t want to get into the Mineral / synthetic debate! I should say I agree with you and stick with mineral oil and on the whole think that’s the safest bet, but there are certainly arguments for synthetics and semi synthetics even in older engines and some people swear by them. The point is the whole debate is nowhere near as important as regular changes and I didn’t want to detract from that. I’ve known people who look at the oil on the dipstick & think that doesn’t look too dirty after a year where they haven’t used it much and leave it. People forget that the additives that stop corrosion and acidity brake down in oil & you can’t see that.
Very good advice I do the same actually today same 10 W 40 & new filter 👍🇦🇺🚜🌲🌲🌲🌲
Hi from Sabinillas, Spain. Missed you in Duqesa I was working odd hours, (shift work) Fab videos keep it up.
Nice & easy. It looked really clean down there and am liking the inverters on the back wall! I can't help myself.......if you mix pure mineral & fully synthetic oils, they may end up "sludging" so better, as you say, to stick with what has been used. Oils also come with there grading, but I was not aware of the 'S & D' so great info thanks!
Yes you're right, I meant to say don't mix mineral & synthetics just make a choice and stick to it
A really informative video thanks
hello from Cádiz, Spain
I remember being told to fill the oil filter with oil before putting it on when I started working on my car at home about 50 years ago. I guess that it is not necessary these days or was I told the wrong way to do it? André
No thats right with filters mounted vertically, helps get the oil to the top end quicker especially if the engine has been drained down for some time. Horizontal filters will just make a mess as you screw them I, so I tend not to. Modern engines are better at getting the oil up quickly as well.
The filter removal tool looks brilliant and better than the cycle type chain removal tool I have. Where did you find it please?
It's actually a German tool (they make great tools) but I've just had a look & you can get it on ebay, link here... www.ebay.co.uk/p/Oil-Filter-Spider-3-Armed-Wrench-for-Cars-BGS-Technic-1030/2255895152?iid=362662729990&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=362662729990&targetid=486898987654&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1006886&poi=&campaignid=7643169300&mkgroupid=78014891021&rlsatarget=aud-629407025025:pla-486898987654&abcId=1139576&merchantid=110819175&gclid=CjwKCAiAi4fwBRBxEiwAEO8_Hlsf4TB1JpLpl2T2DyM2pJ0OU3HCXkW1sNbfiJOvv4qkug26fCYOlhoC_GEQAvD_BwE or just search oil filter spider
@@svfairisle great. Thanks
skin gloves are your friend
Before you unscrew it, pierce a hole in the filter, this breaks the airlock and allows any oil to drain into the sump, instead of spilling out when you unscrew it.
"Not massively expensive..." You have not been to ozzie then mate. Massively expensive not really, but it certainly is not cheap. For 5L you are looking at around $65 AUD to $100 AUD. Or around $10 - 20 for 1L. You can find some 5L for $30 or so here n there, like if it goes on sale, clearance, etc. But not often. And you can get some for only $45, which is what I do.
Might have to stock up before we get there then! For a good oil here I'm paying €35 /4 liters thats about £30 or 56 aussie dollars. It costs more in the UK and of course much less in the states. No matter what though I'm not going to skimp on oil changes in an attempt to save money because in the long run you won't!
What a huge area you have to work in.
Good to see a simple oil change, excellent video.
Yes I'm to old to change oil lying on my back with my feet in the galley while hanging through the companion way steps now!