Nice. I'm currently using left bevel broadheads so I am using left helicals. I think that definitely needs to match. That being said, I shot a few broadheads both left and right bevel (with matching helical) and still didn't see a difference at 40
I wonder where the thought of "losing energy" came from? My initial thought is that spin creates stability and forgiveness, but more drag (drag=energy loss). If your arrow knuckleballs out of the bow first before the fletchings can take over, you would technically have less drag and energy loss. What would be significant, would be the stability and forgiveness of your arrow, especially with fixed blade broadheads. Any torqueing or element interference would be magnified if the arrow knuckleballs out of the bow. What distance that difference becomes significant at, probably depends more on the shooter when it comes to field points or mechanicals. With fixed blade, I personally wouldn't risk any loss of stability and forgiveness. If you purchase arrows pre-fletched, don't waste time and extra money to strip and refletch them. When it comes time to re-fletch them, switch them then. If you build your own arrows, you might as well take any advantage you can get from your bow setup. As for points coming undone, a dab of wax on the threads fixes that on points, and I even use a little plumbers tape on my broadheads before hunting. I have had them come loose without, but never have I had one come off completely when practicing. Appreciate the videos, keep them up and take care.
Thanks a million. I agree 💯%. I think it's just another thing that made sense on paper but not in practice... For field points I buy the ones with the rubber bands on them. They never come undone. As far as unscrewing broadheads... Never had that happen either. I use a wrench to tighten them so I Don't usually have issues with an animal or target unscrewing them. The rotational force doesn't seem to be that strong.
If i understand correctly, what causes a certain rotation whether left or right is the way your bow is strung. Meaning, the way the strings are spun. Not sure if you can request certain rotation when you have your bow restrung but it might be worth exploring. Lastly, if you have a left rotation and fletch your arrow for a left helical you need to keep an eye on your field points and broadheads for loosening.
There are a lot of factors for it. The arrow build itself can be one factor. For instance Page Pearce (world champion target archer) demonstrated that one of her arrow builds rotated right one went left, shot out of the same bow. (Great short vid on her channel BTW) If it matters to you individually make sure you fletch on which way the arrow spins. But I'd you already have the arrows and have them fletched, you may not need to change anything.
The only way they won’t loosen is if you fletch for a right helical. 90% of bows naturally spin arrows left just due to like you said how the string is spun together.
I’ve been shooting the left helical for months and have never had the field tips loosen, and just hunted pigs and also Broadheads stayed tight. If you tighten them properly out of the gate you’ll be good. The rotational force applied by the arrow is not great. Most of the force is delivered by the Broadhead wedging through tissue and bone.
@@SRT8GSD lol No worries man I had some loosen when I was shooting right helical too. I just started putting a dab of beeswax or even bowstring wax on the threads. Also buying field tips with O-rings helps. Same with broadheads. Even my left bevel Broadheads don’t loosen.
That’s true but the broadheads I’m shooting right now I have aerodynamics that make them spin even with no fletching’s so I didn’t want them to skew the test
Hard to test the accuracy of the groups based on helical when you have such inconsistent form and with the wind kicked that high up…but this argument is something I’ve been curious about as well and appreciate the video.
Yeah, I think it was definitely not a scientific test. But the concept is the idea that it doesn't make enough of a difference to go out and change your whole setup for... Unless you just feel like it! My form has improved since this. I was having issues with my shoulder collapsing. Turns out my draw length on my bow had been set up a whole inch too short!
Ranch fairy did some tests like this and into targets and ballistic gel even different poundage bows penetrated about the same. He did some test with lab radar where the arrow is flying still and than you can see differences in energy down range
@@ApexPredatorOutdoors yea I don’t think he tested left and right fletchings but was doing arrow weights and poundage and it all was about the same into targets but could be measured with the lab radar in flight. I have never found a arrow that clocked clockwise yet and I I fletch to the left but I also use blue lock tite on the threads so the broadhead doesn’t unscrew. It’s probably not that important but archery is a game of tweaking so I choose to keep the arrow spinning the same way
Had this same conversation with a pro shop owner the other day. We are both left handed and have always shot right helical. Never made sense for the helical spinning towards the riser
In most cases it really doesn't make a difference. The fletchings (unless they're straight) will take over quickly right after launch and correct immediately
@@ApexPredatorOutdoors I agree...I was testing mine today. Clocked counter clockwise bare shaft. Shooting right helical blazer vanes and from 6 feet they were clocking clockwise.
Actually recently I went up in draw length because I felt cramped. One thing I am bad at is foot position. I often want to stand 90 degrees from the target but it puts my shoulder in a bad spot I had to correct myself a few times during this shoot because due to work travels it had been about three weeks since I had shot my bow.
@Aldocello1 actually I was too short! That’s what was causing my shoulder to pop up. The bow shop measured me at 28”. I set it at 28.5. Still short. When I extended to 29/29.5” my shoulder fell into place way better. Been shooting it since and still shoot 29 on my Mathew’s LIFT 33 now. It feels good and I am way more accurate!
Do the test before the product push !!! Then , hard to test without proper form , yours is all over the place ... Having said that , proper helical to arrow clocking makes a great difference , its been tested and proven by way better shooters than you and I ...
Yeah this was shot during a period where I was trying to figure out my proper draw length I was too short and so my shoulder was buckling. I was 1 inch longer than what the shop told me to be and still too short. It was a week or two after this that I fixed it. That being said you’re right and wrong. Many people have tested this and there are several that have disproven it. For instance Paige Pearce, world champion archer did a video showing that through the same bow two different arrows can clock two different ways. The bow string twist and all that doesn’t matter. Clocking doesn’t really matter as the input of the arrow clocking is so quickly over-ridden by the fletching. Not saying other tests were a lie but they definitely could have been more thorough. Yeah in my current videos I have learned to talk about the sponsors after I get into it a ways. Thanks for watching man! I really appreciate it and appreciate the discussion!!
@@ApexPredatorOutdoors iIf you believe it gives an edge,, its a Psychological advantage. I had many superstitions while competing the field target circuit.
Get better informed before deciding that you're an expert whose knowledge we all need...That chest pack is for rifle hunting. The absurdity of wearing one and pulling your bow over your head are very telling. You don't know what you're doing or saying.
Haha how is any chest pack for rifle hunting? You are showing your inexperience as they make a bow hanger for this very pack! 😂 A chest pack or “bino harness” as almost everyone else refers to it as is made for binoculars. This pack really only fits smaller binoculars as well which would not be as ideal for longer range rifle hunting, but is perfect for bow hunting. Make sure you are informed before making such comments. Have a good one.
Most of these queries began with traditional equipment, and I never saw a real difference! but when I used broadheads it did!
Nice. I'm currently using left bevel broadheads so I am using left helicals. I think that definitely needs to match. That being said, I shot a few broadheads both left and right bevel (with matching helical) and still didn't see a difference at 40
I wonder where the thought of "losing energy" came from? My initial thought is that spin creates stability and forgiveness, but more drag (drag=energy loss). If your arrow knuckleballs out of the bow first before the fletchings can take over, you would technically have less drag and energy loss. What would be significant, would be the stability and forgiveness of your arrow, especially with fixed blade broadheads. Any torqueing or element interference would be magnified if the arrow knuckleballs out of the bow. What distance that difference becomes significant at, probably depends more on the shooter when it comes to field points or mechanicals. With fixed blade, I personally wouldn't risk any loss of stability and forgiveness.
If you purchase arrows pre-fletched, don't waste time and extra money to strip and refletch them. When it comes time to re-fletch them, switch them then. If you build your own arrows, you might as well take any advantage you can get from your bow setup. As for points coming undone, a dab of wax on the threads fixes that on points, and I even use a little plumbers tape on my broadheads before hunting. I have had them come loose without, but never have I had one come off completely when practicing.
Appreciate the videos, keep them up and take care.
Thanks a million. I agree 💯%. I think it's just another thing that made sense on paper but not in practice... For field points I buy the ones with the rubber bands on them. They never come undone. As far as unscrewing broadheads... Never had that happen either. I use a wrench to tighten them so I Don't usually have issues with an animal or target unscrewing them. The rotational force doesn't seem to be that strong.
If i understand correctly, what causes a certain rotation whether left or right is the way your bow is strung. Meaning, the way the strings are spun. Not sure if you can request certain rotation when you have your bow restrung but it might be worth exploring. Lastly, if you have a left rotation and fletch your arrow for a left helical you need to keep an eye on your field points and broadheads for loosening.
There are a lot of factors for it. The arrow build itself can be one factor. For instance Page Pearce (world champion target archer) demonstrated that one of her arrow builds rotated right one went left, shot out of the same bow. (Great short vid on her channel BTW) If it matters to you individually make sure you fletch on which way the arrow spins. But I'd you already have the arrows and have them fletched, you may not need to change anything.
The only way they won’t loosen is if you fletch for a right helical. 90% of bows naturally spin arrows left just due to like you said how the string is spun together.
I’ve been shooting the left helical for months and have never had the field tips loosen, and just hunted pigs and also Broadheads stayed tight. If you tighten them properly out of the gate you’ll be good. The rotational force applied by the arrow is not great. Most of the force is delivered by the Broadhead wedging through tissue and bone.
@@ApexPredatorOutdoors guess I’m not tightening mine correctly then because I constantly have field tips loosening 😂
@@SRT8GSD lol No worries man I had some loosen when I was shooting right helical too. I just started putting a dab of beeswax or even bowstring wax on the threads. Also buying field tips with O-rings helps. Same with broadheads. Even my left bevel Broadheads don’t loosen.
this test would have been better if you have had broadheads on them
That’s true but the broadheads I’m shooting right now I have aerodynamics that make them spin even with no fletching’s so I didn’t want them to skew the test
Hard to test the accuracy of the groups based on helical when you have such inconsistent form and with the wind kicked that high up…but this argument is something I’ve been curious about as well and appreciate the video.
Yeah, I think it was definitely not a scientific test. But the concept is the idea that it doesn't make enough of a difference to go out and change your whole setup for... Unless you just feel like it! My form has improved since this. I was having issues with my shoulder collapsing. Turns out my draw length on my bow had been set up a whole inch too short!
Had a chuckle at that "little ball of head sticking out" lol
😂 Yeah I'm getting close to 40 and that baldness likes to poke out when I wear a snapback backwards!
Ranch fairy did some tests like this and into targets and ballistic gel even different poundage bows penetrated about the same. He did some test with lab radar where the arrow is flying still and than you can see differences in energy down range
I remember that video. Between a three and a four fletch there was very little change, I remember that for sure.
@@ApexPredatorOutdoors yea I don’t think he tested left and right fletchings but was doing arrow weights and poundage and it all was about the same into targets but could be measured with the lab radar in flight. I have never found a arrow that clocked clockwise yet and I I fletch to the left but I also use blue lock tite on the threads so the broadhead doesn’t unscrew. It’s probably not that important but archery is a game of tweaking so I choose to keep the arrow spinning the same way
For sure. Sometimes any perceived gain is still a good thing even if nothing is actually gained in practice it leads to a peace of mind.
Had this same conversation with a pro shop owner the other day. We are both left handed and have always shot right helical. Never made sense for the helical spinning towards the riser
In most cases it really doesn't make a difference. The fletchings (unless they're straight) will take over quickly right after launch and correct immediately
@@ApexPredatorOutdoors I agree...I was testing mine today. Clocked counter clockwise bare shaft. Shooting right helical blazer vanes and from 6 feet they were clocking clockwise.
@jtslush yup! The vanes take over so fast, and two different arrows can clock two different ways.
Did you try to shoot with half inch shorter draw lenght and to put your shoulder a bit lower?
Actually recently I went up in draw length because I felt cramped. One thing I am bad at is foot position. I often want to stand 90 degrees from the target but it puts my shoulder in a bad spot I had to correct myself a few times during this shoot because due to work travels it had been about three weeks since I had shot my bow.
@@ApexPredatorOutdoors Youre def shooting too long length , shouldnt have to lean your head back as much as you do ... But if it works for you
@Aldocello1 actually I was too short! That’s what was causing my shoulder to pop up. The bow shop measured me at 28”. I set it at 28.5. Still short. When I extended to 29/29.5” my shoulder fell into place way better. Been shooting it since and still shoot 29 on my Mathew’s LIFT 33 now. It feels good and I am way more accurate!
Do the test before the product push !!! Then , hard to test without proper form , yours is all over the place ... Having said that , proper helical to arrow clocking makes a great difference , its been tested and proven by way better shooters than you and I ...
Yeah this was shot during a period where I was trying to figure out my proper draw length I was too short and so my shoulder was buckling. I was 1 inch longer than what the shop told me to be and still too short. It was a week or two after this that I fixed it. That being said you’re right and wrong. Many people have tested this and there are several that have disproven it. For instance Paige Pearce, world champion archer did a video showing that through the same bow two different arrows can clock two different ways. The bow string twist and all that doesn’t matter. Clocking doesn’t really matter as the input of the arrow clocking is so quickly over-ridden by the fletching. Not saying other tests were a lie but they definitely could have been more thorough.
Yeah in my current videos I have learned to talk about the sponsors after I get into it a ways. Thanks for watching man! I really appreciate it and appreciate the discussion!!
Thanks for the video…I’ve been debating which way to fletch my arrows. Quick question: what bino harness is that?
It’s the marsupial bino harness. Latest video on the channel is a review of it!
You can see a diff with Bhs.
BHS?
Sorry ! Broaheads, mainly fixed blade ones
Lol yes for sure!
Off the bat I say no.
Lol yeah it's becoming a little big deal in the archery community but its usually based on a hunch, or a "it should".
@@ApexPredatorOutdoors iIf you believe it gives an edge,, its a Psychological advantage. I had many superstitions while competing the field target circuit.
100%.
Get better informed before deciding that you're an expert whose knowledge we all need...That chest pack is for rifle hunting. The absurdity of wearing one and pulling your bow over your head are very telling. You don't know what you're doing or saying.
Haha how is any chest pack for rifle hunting? You are showing your inexperience as they make a bow hanger for this very pack! 😂 A chest pack or “bino harness” as almost everyone else refers to it as is made for binoculars. This pack really only fits smaller binoculars as well which would not be as ideal for longer range rifle hunting, but is perfect for bow hunting. Make sure you are informed before making such comments. Have a good one.