I can't believe more people haven't discovered and subscribed to this channel. So much value with Teal's artisan expertise and just watching a family being so happy together living out their dreams. More value than any other sailing channel out there for sure. Looking forward to seeing your subscribers at 6 or 7 digits. Nobody deserves it more than you guys!
Oh that is how bowsprit or "cat spread" works.... Emma's narration always a delight, but she has stepped up to the next level. Well done. Have a great day where ever the Crew of Basik's next adventure is. Blue skies, “Fair Winds and Following Seas”.... PS recommend you have a "FUSE" or weak link in the cable to pad eyes so the cable or end hardware fails before pulling the pad eye out of hull in overload event.
I rarely comment on videos cuz I have to go to my phone to do it and I watch most videos on a big screen where I cannot comment, that being said. I have followed you from the beginning and I am never disappointed in the quality that you put into everything you touch on this boat, I have watched it be transformed from an old racing tub into a luxury suite to cruise the world in, and best part the whole families involved. My dream was to be on a boat , but life's circumstances due to a bone disease in my spine have told me different, so watching your journey as my surrogate family doing what I wanted to do means more to me than you will understand to me , I am Central Oregon based if you ever come to the Northwest and have a little time to meet one of your fans I would take the time to go meet you at any dock, of your choosing ,just to shake your hands ,and say thank you for sharing your families incredible journey. Troy N. P.S. I do know how to sail a boat , I have owned many boats in my life but nothing over 30 ft, and my both of choice if I just went to get one would be a 2012 or newer leopard 43 or larger, I love the forward setting area ,off of the salon,
Great job, very detailed as is your credence Captain Teal. You are amazingly talented. Luckily you have two good ship-mates to assist you. Overall great crew. Proud of you all. God Bless, 17:31 The Bear 🐻 🙏🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Hey teal those SnapOn ratchets are the best. I am a marine mechanic and will not use any thing else. After using them in tight places you get spoiled. Love the videos keep up the good work all of you guys!!!
It looks to me that the skipper does good work. 👌👌And he does it because he has a good crew assisting.👍👍Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
you could weld a plate on the anchor, that thin piece of metal puts all the pressure where the starboard lumber is. spread it out over an Inch of width instead of an 1/8 inch
Teal, it's always inspiring to watch you fabricate and install [when I'm doing renovation work I often say to myself: "what would Teal do". And you are blessed to have such a supporting and capable crew [as well as beautiful]... Question: why is it necessary to shorten the Forespar tube? [just curious]... Great job on the videos... til next time...
1) The shorter the lever, the less force is on it. 2) Most cruising catamarans with sprits have poles that are 20"-36". Higher performance cats will have 36"- 60". We chose to fall in the middle of this range at 44" 3) Anytime you pull up to a dock or pass through a lock you pay by the length of your vessel. 4) It just looked too long aesthetically.
On the bowsprit mount, I hope you’re putting in something to protect you from dissimilar metal corrosion. The steel bolts into the aluminum cross bar. I think Tefgel is the product that helps. Z.
Here is Teal's answer to one of the probably more than fifty people who asked the same question. 🙂 "I will be honest, basik is 30 years old with aluminum spars throughout. Every piece of hardware with 100's of connecting points to the spars are stainless. I'm sure that adding preventative measures will mitigate degradation but it's easy to take shortcuts after seeing little to no corrosion over the lifespan."
@@genewaddlerandomstuff2122 Interesting....50 people, OK back to the tape ball, that's huge isn't it! : ) Really--- something that loaded should be done right, this isn't a cheap cleat going on under the winch. This is connected to a mast section with the headstay behind it, and it's supporting the bows of his boat! Here's more. 1) Tapering the edges of the cutout core and glassing the outside skins to the inside skins, then using G10 or a solid fiberglass core replacement not PVC. 2) Drilling out the fitting and replacing factory 5/16" with 3/8" in a 1/8" wall thickness give you one thread per bolt holding the fitting. 3) Someone else caught this too, line the padeye up with the direction of the load. Having it sideways to the load makes it want to lift it off instead of pulling. Sorry Teal, love the channel and look forward to it. But this answer from Gene is wrong.
Also, take a look at “transfer punches.” They’re a great way to transfer the center of one hole to another surface that you’re going to drill. For example, drilling the eight holes on the bowsprit mount and drilling the holes on the pad eyes. They make it easy to get neat, tidy, and aligned holes. Best wishes, zeke
Piece of stainless sheet over the HDPE would really help. Also, won’t the bolt heads wear off or get mangled enough that you’ll have a fought time removing them?
I have a good fix for your anchor roller. Use a stainless bolt and a small piece of stainless pipe over the bolt. A 1/2 inch bolt should be sufficient. The pipe just needs to be able to roll and put stainless fender washers on each of the pipe to keep the aluminum from wearing. It will last for years!
When traveling you utilize what you have onboard. I agree the chain would slip over the strake more smoothly with recessed heads but the local ferreteria only had hex.
Trailer rollers are not tough enough for a anchor roller. Have a machine shop turn a piece of UHMW. Will last forever. Envy you guys in the sun. Keep up the great videos
Good job guys. I like all that PM work and the meticulous way to do it. That shiny rachet and tap and due set tells me that you care for your tools as much as your boat, way to go👍 You are my favorite family in the sailing community!
Here is Teal's answer to one of the probably more than fifty people who asked the same question. 🙂 "I will be honest, basik is 30 years old with aluminum spars throughout. Every piece of hardware with 100's of connecting points to the spars are stainless. I'm sure that adding preventative measures will mitigate degradation but it's easy to take shortcuts after seeing little to no corrosion over the lifespan."
Do something against galvanic corrions on this front beam ! I would install a thin plastic sheet between the beam and your stainless bracket, and use duralac or something similar on the bolts. Regarding your sidestays holding plates, I think you installed the padeyes with a 90 degrees twist. These padeyes can not take a sideway load on the bow... Just my two Euro cents. Matthias
Here is Teal's answer to one of the probably more than fifty people who asked the same question. 🙂 "I will be honest, basik is 30 years old with aluminum spars throughout. Every piece of hardware with 100's of connecting points to the spars are stainless. I'm sure that adding preventative measures will mitigate degradation but it's easy to take shortcuts after seeing little to no corrosion over the lifespan."
We think of a lot of things that would be better. The reality of traveling outside of the US is that parts are much harder to get and the ones you can get are fairly generic.
Faster sailing... does that mean you're gonna make 5.5kts with the code d and Teal at the helm? 🤣 I get the feeling Compass wants to see double digit cruising speeds but he's being ignored... 😆✌🏼
Here is Teal's answer to one of the probably more than fifty people who asked the same question. 🙂 "I will be honest, basik is 30 years old with aluminum spars throughout. Every piece of hardware with 100's of connecting points to the spars are stainless. I'm sure that adding preventative measures will mitigate degradation but it's easy to take shortcuts after seeing little to no corrosion over the lifespan."
Is Compass at the Vet or something? What's going on here? Putting more holes in a boat or watching Compass, hummmm which one do I want to watch? Take a guess.
Hey Mr. TEAL,, I know you guys are probably halfway to wherever your going by now, however,,, When watching you install that bracket, (STAINLESS STEEL) to your bulkhead beam, (aluminum) the bracket that holds that bazooka thing, with dissimilar metals, won't you get Galvanic corrosion? Shouldn't there be a goop or something in-between! Also,,,, did I see right, only put that scuff-pad on one anchor!! Not unform to each other!! 'You'!! 😂!! And, weren't those bolts made of dissimilar metal too.. Great job on that mounting of that hardware near the waterline,,, very clean.. 😊 Curious, was that backboard countersunk a bit so that brutal tape on the inside had room to run when tightened up... if that wall was bent in anyway, you did a fantastic job of matching. Thus keeping everything flush... 😉. Great job in keeping Emma involved. She's learning a lot of useful skills in her upbringing.
I will be honest, basik is 30 years old with aluminum spars throughout. Every piece of hardware with 100's of connecting points to the spars are stainless. I'm sure that adding preventative measures will mitigate degradation but it's easy to take shortcuts after seeing little to no corrosion over the lifespan. The anchor on the starboard side is our primary anchor. The windlass is inline with the starboard bow roller. The Anchor on the port is our secondary anchor and will be used in emergency situations only. To retrieve either anchor, they would be on on the starboard bow roller only. I would put another plate on the port side for symmetry reasons only. And yes, there was a small groove on the backside of the padeye. I also use a larger bit to clean up the holes on the backer plate which also gives it a small pocket for the butyl tape. Thanks for the questions, Cheers!
@@OnboardLifestyle wow, did not know you were an aluminum framed vessel. Very cool. Amazing that there's been no corrosion between those metals. In aircraft,,, shows up quickly. Also, understand now that about motor only being rigged on one roller, did not know that either.. you did good on protecting that 5 inch area, that should work out just fine.. Thanks for getting taking the time to back to me on that. You guys make a great team... travel safe..
is there no insert that can be riviteted into the aluminum to give you more threads for your bolts? how thick is that aluminum? it can't have more than 3 actual threads grabbing the bolt right?
Here is Teal's answer to one of the probably more than fifty people who asked the same question. 🙂 "I will be honest, basik is 30 years old with aluminum spars throughout. Every piece of hardware with 100's of connecting points to the spars are stainless. I'm sure that adding preventative measures will mitigate degradation but it's easy to take shortcuts after seeing little to no corrosion over the lifespan."
Here is Teal's answer to one of the probably more than fifty people who asked the same question. 🙂 "I will be honest, basik is 30 years old with aluminum spars throughout. Every piece of hardware with 100's of connecting points to the spars are stainless. I'm sure that adding preventative measures will mitigate degradation but it's easy to take shortcuts after seeing little to no corrosion over the lifespan."
A code zero is strictly a downwind sail. Seems to me you already do that very easily without it. Speed racers ideally use two code zeros. You buy one for upwind and another one for reaching. Plenty of my friends only carry one. Very expensive and a pain in the ass to get down. Added sail storage space where space is already at a premium. Don't have clue where you are headed next. Surprise me by not regretting that decision when there is so little for you to gain.
Here is Teal's answer to one of the probably more than fifty people who asked the same question. 🙂 "I will be honest, basik is 30 years old with aluminum spars throughout. Every piece of hardware with 100's of connecting points to the spars are stainless. I'm sure that adding preventative measures will mitigate degradation but it's easy to take shortcuts after seeing little to no corrosion over the lifespan."
Here is Teal's answer to one of the probably more than fifty people who asked the same question. 🙂 "I will be honest, basik is 30 years old with aluminum spars throughout. Every piece of hardware with 100's of connecting points to the spars are stainless. I'm sure that adding preventative measures will mitigate degradation but it's easy to take shortcuts after seeing little to no corrosion over the lifespan."
good vlog - also very good of delos not to be doing any work on their boat and distracting us from your work - or do you just film when their large paid workforce is on break or lunch
Great job as always👍 but direct contact of stainless steel with aluminium is not a good solution. I think you will not enjoy it for long due to electrogalvanic corrosion, especially in combination with salt water.
Here is Teal's answer to one of the probably more than fifty people who asked the same question. 🙂 "I will be honest, basik is 30 years old with aluminum spars throughout. Every piece of hardware with 100's of connecting points to the spars are stainless. I'm sure that adding preventative measures will mitigate degradation but it's easy to take shortcuts after seeing little to no corrosion over the lifespan."
In to stiff winds basik does real well. Running in light winds is where we need improvement. Our Precision asymmetrical spinnaker is awesome but it takes all three of us to deploy. The new sprit will give us a much needed single hand option.
Yikes that looked like it was cracked all the way through....maybe it was just a black mark... but if so it seems like it is going to create a stress riser failure point in the crossbeam.
@@2oqp577 I hope so if you look before he put on the guard to stop the chain galling, in the middle of two of the deep gouges it looked like there were black lines in the deepest part..probably mistaken...hopefully so but it did look like it.
Looking great 😊 When attaching dissimilar metals, (stainless to aluminum) I used a plastic gasket and tef gel thread compound to reduce metal corrosion. Cheers to you sailors Sail on.
Butylful job!
Clever! 😉
Teal: ‘I’d tap that’ 😉
That cap is so gangster 👍
Teal, you seriously have a side hustle for the cruising kitty with all your DYI stuff that you do. You are one seriously gifted man.
Happy St Patty's day guys.
Happy St. Patrick's Day!! 🍀🍀🍀
I can't believe more people haven't discovered and subscribed to this channel. So much value with Teal's artisan expertise and just watching a family being so happy together living out their dreams. More value than any other sailing channel out there for sure. Looking forward to seeing your subscribers at 6 or 7 digits. Nobody deserves it more than you guys!
Teal could teach the professionals a thing or two about craftsmanship on a boat. An exceptional and beautiful job well executed.
💯
Hello from Siesta Key Florida and Happy Saint Patty's day
Hey Bill! Happy St. Patrick's Day to you!
I love your project videos! You are a true craftsman, Teal! I also love Linh's cooking videos!
💯
Thankyou .
You're welcome!
I love seeing Emma is growing up and taking on boat tasks. I love how the boating lifestyle teaches kids (and adults) so much.
Look Teal made a Basic Unicorn 😎👍
My favorite sailing family.
😁😁
Good morning to the best internet family.
Good morning Gene!!! 😁😁
You are a genius!!!
Nice one. I believe you will be back in :)
If you ever need help changing a lightbulb, I can do that. Great video once again.
Thanks James! 😁
Wow crew! With that bowsprit length, you should have plenty of room for a Big foresail! Emma is really a great assistant Teal!
@13:00 Teal as "The Count"... Get Teal to work on a mullet and he can look the part of The Count! Cool video, crew!
"They call me the Count because I love to count things"
-- The Count
Another groovy and informative video. Stay safe and stay groovy.
I think it is so cool that Emma is such a proficient help on various boat jobs.
I hope you bedded that plastic chahe plate so salt could not corrod behiing out of site!
I am looking forward to a smooth launch. Good to see you Teal, Lihn, & Emma.
🍀Happy🍀St. Patricks 🍀Day!🍀
Thanks Kimberly! Happy St. Paddy's Day to you too! 🍀🍀🍀
nice work!!
Re: Anchor, round off the underside of the anchor bar, remove the 90* edges. Helps with roller life and prevents the anchor following a track
Great job. Perfect work u do. Pride. Watching
some guys have all the fun.....sailing and machining. bliss
good idea
Oh that is how bowsprit or "cat spread" works.... Emma's narration always a delight, but she has stepped up to the next level. Well done.
Have a great day where ever the Crew of Basik's next adventure is. Blue skies, “Fair Winds and Following Seas”....
PS recommend you have a "FUSE" or weak link in the cable to pad eyes so the cable or end hardware fails before pulling the pad eye out of hull in overload event.
A great upgrade for your beautiful boat.
I rarely comment on videos cuz I have to go to my phone to do it and I watch most videos on a big screen where I cannot comment, that being said. I have followed you from the beginning and I am never disappointed in the quality that you put into everything you touch on this boat, I have watched it be transformed from an old racing tub into a luxury suite to cruise the world in, and best part the whole families involved. My dream was to be on a boat , but life's circumstances due to a bone disease in my spine have told me different, so watching your journey as my surrogate family doing what I wanted to do means more to me than you will understand to me , I am Central Oregon based if you ever come to the Northwest and have a little time to meet one of your fans I would take the time to go meet you at any dock, of your choosing ,just to shake your hands ,and say thank you for sharing your families incredible journey. Troy N. P.S. I do know how to sail a boat , I have owned many boats in my life but nothing over 30 ft, and my both of choice if I just went to get one would be a 2012 or newer leopard 43 or larger, I love the forward setting area ,off of the salon,
Great job, very detailed as is your credence Captain Teal. You are amazingly talented. Luckily you have two good ship-mates to assist you. Overall great crew. Proud of you all. God Bless, 17:31 The Bear 🐻 🙏🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Thanks guy’s!
Hey teal those SnapOn ratchets are the best. I am a marine mechanic and will not use any thing else. After using them in tight places you get spoiled. Love the videos keep up the good work all of you guys!!!
Beautiful work.
Awesome Idea Teal !!! (The Sacraficial plate)
Thank you! Cheers!
Bravo 👏🏻 👏🏻
missed opportunity, should have Screamed when the first drill bit came thru... Fair Winds 😎
safe travels
Thanks Robin!! 😁
Teal and crew do good work together. SV Basik is looking beautiful.
Hi, just lately, it’s like all the sailing channels all they do is Winge about the problems they have that’s the cost of yachting,
Nice Job...But, I would recommend some anti-cease on the SS Bolts to prevent binding.
I always marvel at your superb craftsmanship Teal. You engineer everything well! Great episode.
It looks to me that the skipper does good work. 👌👌And he does it because he has a good crew assisting.👍👍Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
Excellent job. No doubt that will easily handle whatever forces are applied to it.
Cool beans
you could weld a plate on the anchor, that thin piece of metal puts all the pressure where the starboard lumber is. spread it out over an Inch of width instead of an 1/8 inch
Teal, it's always inspiring to watch you fabricate and install [when I'm doing renovation work I often say to myself: "what would Teal do". And you are blessed to have such a supporting and capable crew [as well as beautiful]...
Question: why is it necessary to shorten the Forespar tube? [just curious]...
Great job on the videos...
til next time...
1) The shorter the lever, the less force is on it.
2) Most cruising catamarans with sprits have poles that are 20"-36". Higher performance cats will have 36"- 60". We chose to fall in the middle of this range at 44"
3) Anytime you pull up to a dock or pass through a lock you pay by the length of your vessel.
4) It just looked too long aesthetically.
@@OnboardLifestyle It is designed to be easily removed, so defeats, reason "3".
On the protectors for the anchor chain. $5 says the bolt-heads wear out first.
A really amazing work With your boat, 🏋🏻♀️🤟🏋🏻♀️, short question, stainless steel directly on aluminum, does it really work?
I love your projects !
MORE SAIL POWER!! For Linh's high speed runs. 🙂
Lol, that's the plan! 😂🌬💨⛵️
@@linhgobenyt That was an easy one. 😃
I’ve always thought Linh looked very familiar and was watching stargate universe last night. Her doppelgänger Ming-Na is an actress on the series.
14:07 I'm guessing the white front plate came as part of the kit and didn't to be hand made.
On the bowsprit mount, I hope you’re putting in something to protect you from dissimilar metal corrosion. The steel bolts into the aluminum cross bar. I think Tefgel is the product that helps. Z.
Here is Teal's answer to one of the probably more than fifty people who asked the same question. 🙂
"I will be honest, basik is 30 years old with aluminum spars throughout. Every piece of hardware with 100's of connecting points to the spars are stainless. I'm sure that adding preventative measures will mitigate degradation but it's easy to take shortcuts after seeing little to no corrosion over the lifespan."
@@genewaddlerandomstuff2122 Interesting....50 people, OK back to the tape ball, that's huge isn't it! : )
Really--- something that loaded should be done right, this isn't a cheap cleat going on under the winch. This is connected to a mast section with the headstay behind it, and it's supporting the bows of his boat!
Here's more.
1) Tapering the edges of the cutout core and glassing the outside skins to the inside skins, then using G10 or a solid fiberglass core replacement not PVC. 2) Drilling out the fitting and replacing factory 5/16" with 3/8" in a 1/8" wall thickness give you one thread per bolt holding the fitting. 3) Someone else caught this too, line the padeye up with the direction of the load. Having it sideways to the load makes it want to lift it off instead of pulling.
Sorry Teal, love the channel and look forward to it. But this answer from Gene is wrong.
Also, take a look at “transfer punches.” They’re a great way to transfer the center of one hole to another surface that you’re going to drill. For example, drilling the eight holes on the bowsprit mount and drilling the holes on the pad eyes. They make it easy to get neat, tidy, and aligned holes. Best wishes, zeke
Piece of stainless sheet over the HDPE would really help. Also, won’t the bolt heads wear off or get mangled enough that you’ll have a fought time removing them?
Ingenuity and always incredible quality work.
Donate for a Dream
Very professional, good job. What about corrosion between the stainless and the alu?
I like to put the tap bit in my drill it speeds up the process so fast. Oh and I use cutting oil. 😊
G'day mate. This may sound stupid but have you ever contemplated sailing to Vietnam wth Linh, Emma and Compass?. I'd love to see that for you all.😊😊
nice
I have a good fix for your anchor roller. Use a stainless bolt and a small piece of stainless pipe over the bolt. A 1/2 inch bolt should be sufficient. The pipe just needs to be able to roll and put stainless fender washers on each of the pipe to keep the aluminum from wearing. It will last for years!
Rub strake is an awesome idea and solution, one thing I would do different is use flat heads instead.
When traveling you utilize what you have onboard. I agree the chain would slip over the strake more smoothly with recessed heads but the local ferreteria only had hex.
Trailer rollers are not tough enough for a anchor roller. Have a machine shop turn a piece of UHMW. Will last forever. Envy you guys in the sun. Keep up the great videos
Good job guys. I like all that PM work and the meticulous way to do it. That shiny rachet and tap and due set tells me that you care for your tools as much as your boat, way to go👍
You are my favorite family in the sailing community!
Tap and die, not due.
Awesome thank you!
Are you guys going to head to the South Pacific?
Another dream vlog for the OCD and ASD squad. Loved it!
Teal you and "The Crew" did a wonderful job. But who's idea was the title huh ??? Don't blame it on the "Thickened Epoxy" this time. God Bless
I hope you used Lanacote or Tef Gel on the bolts for your (great idea) anchor chain pad. S/S in contact with aluminum - no bueno.
Here is Teal's answer to one of the probably more than fifty people who asked the same question. 🙂
"I will be honest, basik is 30 years old with aluminum spars throughout. Every piece of hardware with 100's of connecting points to the spars are stainless. I'm sure that adding preventative measures will mitigate degradation but it's easy to take shortcuts after seeing little to no corrosion over the lifespan."
you freaked him out lol he thought he missed a measurement
Great jobs on the pad eyes and roller sacrificial pad! Is the crossbeam galvanized steel or aluminum?
Our crossbeam is aluminum. 😊
@@linhgobenyt I thought so. Keep an eye on Teal keeping an eye on dissimilar metal corrosion! LOL.
😎
Do something against galvanic corrions on this front beam ! I would install a thin plastic sheet between the beam and your stainless bracket, and use duralac or something similar on the bolts. Regarding your sidestays holding plates, I think you installed the padeyes with a 90 degrees twist. These padeyes can not take a sideway load on the bow... Just my two Euro cents. Matthias
Here is Teal's answer to one of the probably more than fifty people who asked the same question. 🙂
"I will be honest, basik is 30 years old with aluminum spars throughout. Every piece of hardware with 100's of connecting points to the spars are stainless. I'm sure that adding preventative measures will mitigate degradation but it's easy to take shortcuts after seeing little to no corrosion over the lifespan."
When the pad wears out if you can find a piece of mine or flour mill conveyer belt it is cheap and next to indestructible
Have you thought about using helicoils or timecerts in the aluminum rather that relying on the threaded aluminum?
We think of a lot of things that would be better. The reality of traveling outside of the US is that parts are much harder to get and the ones you can get are fairly generic.
Faster sailing... does that mean you're gonna make 5.5kts with the code d and Teal at the helm? 🤣 I get the feeling Compass wants to see double digit cruising speeds but he's being ignored... 😆✌🏼
Teal, when you drill into the aluminum frame, do you have to water proof them?
Nice work Teal! I've never used Butyl tape before, though I've used 3M 5200 many times. That Butyl cleans up super easy! Is it as waterproof as 5200?
In most applications Butyl is amazing but I would never use it below the waterline. Stick with 5200 or Life Caulk for that.
@@OnboardLifestyle Thanks for that!!
Great Job but wondering why you chose not to rivet on the fittings to the cross beam and whether you are concerned about corrosion?
Can't you extend the roller fairlead forward so the chain doesn't touch the crossbeam at any time
Make sure you use Permatex or similar to prevent Galvanic corrosion.
Here is Teal's answer to one of the probably more than fifty people who asked the same question. 🙂
"I will be honest, basik is 30 years old with aluminum spars throughout. Every piece of hardware with 100's of connecting points to the spars are stainless. I'm sure that adding preventative measures will mitigate degradation but it's easy to take shortcuts after seeing little to no corrosion over the lifespan."
Is Compass at the Vet or something? What's going on here?
Putting more holes in a boat or watching Compass, hummmm which one do I want to watch? Take a guess.
👍🏽
How effective are these anchors? What name do they have?
We talked about our anchors in our Hurricane Kay video, check it out! ua-cam.com/video/6AehRP9GSts/v-deo.html
Hey Mr. TEAL,,
I know you guys are probably halfway to wherever your going by now, however,,,
When watching you install that bracket, (STAINLESS STEEL) to your bulkhead beam, (aluminum) the bracket that holds that bazooka thing, with dissimilar metals, won't you get Galvanic corrosion? Shouldn't there be a goop or something in-between!
Also,,,,
did I see right, only put that scuff-pad on one anchor!! Not unform to each other!! 'You'!! 😂!! And, weren't those bolts made of dissimilar metal too..
Great job on that mounting of that hardware near the waterline,,, very clean.. 😊
Curious, was that backboard countersunk a bit so that brutal tape on the inside had room to run when tightened up... if that wall was bent in anyway, you did a fantastic job of matching. Thus keeping everything flush... 😉.
Great job in keeping Emma involved. She's learning a lot of useful skills in her upbringing.
I will be honest, basik is 30 years old with aluminum spars throughout. Every piece of hardware with 100's of connecting points to the spars are stainless. I'm sure that adding preventative measures will mitigate degradation but it's easy to take shortcuts after seeing little to no corrosion over the lifespan.
The anchor on the starboard side is our primary anchor. The windlass is inline with the starboard bow roller. The Anchor on the port is our secondary anchor and will be used in emergency situations only. To retrieve either anchor, they would be on on the starboard bow roller only. I would put another plate on the port side for symmetry reasons only.
And yes, there was a small groove on the backside of the padeye. I also use a larger bit to clean up the holes on the backer plate which also gives it a small pocket for the butyl tape.
Thanks for the questions, Cheers!
@@OnboardLifestyle wow, did not know you were an aluminum framed vessel. Very cool. Amazing that there's been no corrosion between those metals. In aircraft,,, shows up quickly.
Also, understand now that about motor only being rigged on one roller, did not know that either.. you did good on protecting that 5 inch area, that should work out just fine..
Thanks for getting taking the time to back to me on that.
You guys make a great team... travel safe..
is there no insert that can be riviteted into the aluminum to give you more threads for your bolts? how thick is that aluminum? it can't have more than 3 actual threads grabbing the bolt right?
Aluminum and stainless need to insulated from each other to prevent corrosion. Plastic pipe tape works well, and tuff gel on the fasteners.
Here is Teal's answer to one of the probably more than fifty people who asked the same question. 🙂
"I will be honest, basik is 30 years old with aluminum spars throughout. Every piece of hardware with 100's of connecting points to the spars are stainless. I'm sure that adding preventative measures will mitigate degradation but it's easy to take shortcuts after seeing little to no corrosion over the lifespan."
👍👍👍
Just a thought. Did you use Tef-gel or lanolin to prevent galvanic corrosion on those stainless bolts?
Here is Teal's answer to one of the probably more than fifty people who asked the same question. 🙂
"I will be honest, basik is 30 years old with aluminum spars throughout. Every piece of hardware with 100's of connecting points to the spars are stainless. I'm sure that adding preventative measures will mitigate degradation but it's easy to take shortcuts after seeing little to no corrosion over the lifespan."
@@genewaddlerandomstuff2122 Thanks for taking the time to reply, Gene. I hope all is well with you.
A code zero is strictly a downwind sail. Seems to me you already do that very easily without it. Speed racers ideally use two code zeros. You buy one for upwind and another one for reaching. Plenty of my friends only carry one. Very expensive and a pain in the ass to get down. Added sail storage space where space is already at a premium. Don't have clue where you are headed next. Surprise me by not regretting that decision when there is so little for you to gain.
will you have trouble with 2 different metals touching?
Here is Teal's answer to one of the probably more than fifty people who asked the same question. 🙂
"I will be honest, basik is 30 years old with aluminum spars throughout. Every piece of hardware with 100's of connecting points to the spars are stainless. I'm sure that adding preventative measures will mitigate degradation but it's easy to take shortcuts after seeing little to no corrosion over the lifespan."
Teal did you use Tefgel on your bolts mate?
Here is Teal's answer to one of the probably more than fifty people who asked the same question. 🙂
"I will be honest, basik is 30 years old with aluminum spars throughout. Every piece of hardware with 100's of connecting points to the spars are stainless. I'm sure that adding preventative measures will mitigate degradation but it's easy to take shortcuts after seeing little to no corrosion over the lifespan."
Would electricians grease be good on those threads.
good vlog - also very good of delos not to be doing any work on their boat and distracting us from your work - or do you just film when their large paid workforce is on break or lunch
Good work but I would of put 4200 around those bolt hols cause there not water tight in big seas ur bow sprit will have water in it
The good news is that we have traveled over 2,000 nm's since we installed them and they are still dry as a bone.
Great job as always👍 but direct contact of stainless steel with aluminium is not a good solution. I think you will not enjoy it for long due to electrogalvanic corrosion, especially in combination with salt water.
Here is Teal's answer to one of the probably more than fifty people who asked the same question. 🙂
"I will be honest, basik is 30 years old with aluminum spars throughout. Every piece of hardware with 100's of connecting points to the spars are stainless. I'm sure that adding preventative measures will mitigate degradation but it's easy to take shortcuts after seeing little to no corrosion over the lifespan."
Sounds like someone feels the need for speed. It should be a good upgrade.
In to stiff winds basik does real well. Running in light winds is where we need improvement. Our Precision asymmetrical spinnaker is awesome but it takes all three of us to deploy. The new sprit will give us a much needed single hand option.
I need an answer to where you got the letter Ä. I'm a Swede and there it is a supplement
Yikes that looked like it was cracked all the way through....maybe it was just a black mark... but if so it seems like it is going to create a stress riser failure point in the crossbeam.
Looked to me like a 0.02" deep gauge.
@@2oqp577 I hope so if you look before he put on the guard to stop the chain galling, in the middle of two of the deep gouges it looked like there were black lines in the deepest part..probably mistaken...hopefully so but it did look like it.
cheaper to put strips on your boat, we all know that makes a sailboat go faster
😂😂😂
Looking great 😊
When attaching dissimilar metals, (stainless to aluminum) I used a plastic gasket and tef gel thread compound to reduce metal corrosion.
Cheers to you sailors
Sail on.
No duralac goop?
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