I went on a no heat call today the top two burners would light and go right back out checked inlet and it was high pressure told homeowner to call gas company tell them their regulator had failed because I can't touch that they replaced the regulater and everything works perfectly I'm glad it didn't harm the gas valve
If the manifold pressure is correct, you still need to check the temperature rise after making sure there is enough ductwork, the filter is clean and all supply and return grills and registers are open an unobstructed then adjust blower speed to achieve the proper temperature rise.
That's a statement that only an experienced tech would know but the only thing that gets to me on these hi priced two stage furnaces atleast in North Carolina I can't speak for northern states but here the furnace starts in low stage and runs for ten minutes then goes to hi stage if you keep your house a constant temperature then when it calls for heat it takes 8 to 10 minutes to satisfy so most of them never run in hi so they are buying something they don't need and the parts cost more but the salesmen sell it
If you are replacing a valve you should always check pressures after install but it will usually already be adjusted. Factory valves already installed in furnaces will be adjusted.
If I live in Canada where it gets down to -50 celcius some winters, but mostly sits around -20 to -30, but I live in a condo where I have neighbors on either side of me, as well as above me, can I just live off their heat?
I didn't show adjusting it in this video. You can see one of the adjustment covers in the video though, the flat head screw that has the purple mark on it is actually one of the cover caps for the adjustment valve.
Is see one connection from the gas valve to P2 on the manometer. Where is the second hose that’s connected to P1 on the manometer going??? Did I miss something 🤔
Input - Low could make it difficult to produce proper heat/flame. But the levels of low it would have to be to get below the output necessity would be showing signs in whatever else is being powered by the natural gas. High - Could damage the gas valve hypothetically, but again You'd be seeing the damage in other appliances as well. Output - Low - not enough flame, flame sensor not detecting flame, heat "on" but low temperature rise. Output - high - premature exchanger failure (only after long term), Burner damage (ish), heat rise too high.
GREAT EXPLANATION ON HOW TO TEST GAS VALVE AND HOW TO CHECK INLET AND OUTLET GAS PRESSURE GOOD JOB THANKS
I went on a no heat call today the top two burners would light and go right back out checked inlet and it was high pressure told homeowner to call gas company tell them their regulator had failed because I can't touch that they replaced the regulater and everything works perfectly I'm glad it didn't harm the gas valve
That's an awesome tech move . Know the limits and stay with in it. Reffer up when necessary. Cool.
Wow that was amazing that you knew the gas was too high when burners we're shutting off at startup. Did you learn that through experience or school?
@@Hvacmania experience I have 30 years hands on experience and maybe 2 months of like 1 day classes over the years
@@donaldpainter956 holy moly !! Congratulations 🎉👏 that's awesome
If the manifold pressure is correct, you still need to check the temperature rise after making sure there is enough ductwork, the filter is clean and all supply and return grills and registers are open an unobstructed then adjust blower speed to achieve the proper temperature rise.
You can also use an Analyzer. When the system shuts off, if your CO climbs, The gas valve is leaking by.
Great video btw, you can also tell its a single stage by seeing only one pressure switch!
Correct.
Thanks for sharing I really appreciate it I am learning a lot from you keep it on😀👍
Absolutely outstanding video
Thank You.
@@hvac1524 I work for a school district. So these videos work really well to learn off of. Keep it up. 👍
Amazing video, great information
Thank You.
That's a statement that only an experienced tech would know but the only thing that gets to me on these hi priced two stage furnaces atleast in North Carolina I can't speak for northern states but here the furnace starts in low stage and runs for ten minutes then goes to hi stage if you keep your house a constant temperature then when it calls for heat it takes 8 to 10 minutes to satisfy so most of them never run in hi so they are buying something they don't need and the parts cost more but the salesmen sell it
Good refresher course, thank you
Thanks for the knowledge 👍🏻
should shown how to adjust gas pressure
The manual valve should be referred as the valve cock or shut off valve.
Do new valves come from factory
adjusted? And once set, do you have to check pressures every so often?
If you are replacing a valve you should always check pressures after install but it will usually already be adjusted.
Factory valves already installed in furnaces will be adjusted.
If I live in Canada where it gets down to -50 celcius some winters, but mostly sits around -20 to -30, but I live in a condo where I have neighbors on either side of me, as well as above me, can I just live off their heat?
Not knowing your insulation levels and all that I can't give a definitive no. But I would give a 99% No on that.
@@hvac1524 haha I was kind of joking. I got it replaced. And I got a second job to pay for it.
@@eagillum To be honest, I was hoping you were joking. But, you never know nowadays. lol.
Did I miss something? If the pressure needs adjustment, you didn't show how to do it.
I didn't show adjusting it in this video. You can see one of the adjustment covers in the video though, the flat head screw that has the purple mark on it is actually one of the cover caps for the adjustment valve.
What size Allen key?
Is see one connection from the gas valve to P2 on the manometer. Where is the second hose that’s connected to P1 on the manometer going??? Did I miss something 🤔
Simply not connect to anything at that time.
So what is the result if a gas valve input/output is too low or too high?
Input - Low could make it difficult to produce proper heat/flame. But the levels of low it would have to be to get below the output necessity would be showing signs in whatever else is being powered by the natural gas.
High - Could damage the gas valve hypothetically, but again You'd be seeing the damage in other appliances as well.
Output - Low - not enough flame, flame sensor not detecting flame, heat "on" but low temperature rise.
Output - high - premature exchanger failure (only after long term), Burner damage (ish), heat rise too high.
Lately all the new YORK TM9 furnaces have been coming through too high 4.2 to 4.9
Good information. Thank You.